@Roy Rocks . Thanks for the video . I just picked mine up today , funny story , I mentioned i saw it on your vid to the lady, She had a giggle and said she has heaps of enquires and purchases of these saws ever since you vid . even one from Europe :D Lovely lady and great business service .
They do seem nice and I think I'll be working with them into the future for sure. If this is how good a cheap saw from them is I can't wait to see how their more expensive tools work.
I have a wet tile saw but was afraid to use it because I’d heard the speed made it too dangerous. This video has made me feel a lot better about trying it out. Thanks for the demonstration. I’m glad you mentioned water level. I would have likely made a huge mess.
Nice video. Congrats on the new saw! I mostly use the cheapest blades and change them often. (They are only about $8 USD). I do have some sintered ones, but I tend to leave them on the saw (with the water in) and they rust. I treat my saws and the blades very poorly. I should be arrested for abuse - lucky saws don't have fingers ... or phones!
Congrats on the new tool. Having a trim saw makes like soooooo much easier! My first arbor was pretty ancient, but was great because it could be set up with a trim saw on one side and an expandable drum on the other (which is how I had it configured). Was also variable speed, so I could crank up the RPMs when using saw.
Gday Roy - thanks for this great review of our trim saw. Just to clarify on the blade situation - the thick blade in the package is the original tile blade. We leave it in and you can essentially regard it as a freebie. Keep it to use when you are doing a bathroom or kitchen reno. They will cut stone but with a lot of wastage and the blade is quite coarse. The two blades in the white sleeves are the electroplated and continuous rim blades - both suitable for lapidary work. Re the blade guard - one of your commenters suggested reversing the bolt. As you note, that wont work straight out but if you grind off two edges of the bolt to fit into the recess, then you would be able to reverse it and have the wing nut on opposite side where it doesnt obstruct the reservoir lid. Thank you for your feedback - we appreciate it.
Hi AussieSapphire, I didn't realise you had a youtube channel I'll have to link it in the description. Probably wont use the electroplated like I said in the video but your sintered blade cuts smooth as. I'll have to pick up a few more bits of gear in the future.
This is fantastic Roy, thanks for sharing your experience, I can't believe how affordable it is. Definitely something I'd consider buying now that I've seen it in action.
Yeah I can recommend them strongly especially for matrix slabbing. I just became reliant on the kindness of others letting me borrow their saws every few months.
On your first test cut there, I notice it pushes back at you at a high frequency, indicating the outside diameter is not concentric to the spindle. It's not necessarily the case with all cheaper machines, but they can have runout, and the arbor tolerances usually arent that tight. It's possible it's also a balance issue. As a machinist and toolmaker I have a few thoughts on this to share. The more concentric you can get it the better your cuts will be and you'll be less likely to blow chips out on the edge of the cut. If you're like me and this small amount of runout would annoy you (if it doesn't, disregard the rest of this comment :D), there's a few things you can try to reduce or eliminate it . After fitting, run the blade and bring in a workpiece so it just touches. You can mark the high spot, back the nut of slightly, and tap the blade very lightly with a plastic or hide hammer. The lightest of taps. You dont need to move it much. You only want to overcome the friction between the flange and blade and not tap so hard the blade hits the spindle. Another option can be to find something harder than the blade and dress it to concentricity, not an easy option as that usually requires something specialist. You can also just experiment with backing the nut off, rotating the blade a few degrees, and testing it again. Probably the easiest and least risky way of truing it up. I have dial indicators in my kit so that's what I'll use. Probably overkill but thats me. Like I said, I'm a toolmaker, its in my blood to be picky about it. I like taking budget machinery and touching it up to perform better in general as well. Cheaper tooling can be extremely viable with a bit more knowledge and I love to share it.
Good eye. The flange is just slightly off and I can machine another at work if I can be bothered. For all the fairy opal I have to slab up it isn't going to be a problem though.
Might have to pick one of these up I think. Their $2100 cabber is also on sale, been dying to get that and do a review video. And they have pay in 4 option. Ugh. Moving house sucks ass. I was meant to be doing all this right now with my tax return but have to move on Monday and move again in 6 months. Cant set up a workshop. Ugggghhhhhhhh it kills me so bad. I just wanna cut and polish my opals.
I pulled the water catcher off my tile saw and turned the saw around so the water sprays away from me while i pull the piece towards me, also keeps the rock from flying at you if it catches the blade lol
A fair few ppl do it that way but I agree with you mate I can't image there getting the best results pulling it towards you. There "straight" cuts would be all over the place😅 @@RoysRocks
I really enjoyed this one because I have been thinking about getting a wet tile saw and I wasn't sure if they're good enough to cut stones. I had a weird question come into my head as I watched you with the blade. I have seen videos where people somehow used the side of their saw blade to grind stones into ovals after they cut them. But I am wondering if you could adapt the trim saw into a flat lap? With different discs and even a polishing pad?
Yes and no. It can be done with some adjustment if there is enough room to get a master lap on the arbor and the arbor + motor is strong enough to handle the grinding. For a vertical flat lap you are better off mounting a motor and designing a shroud to contain the lap. Also better to be a bit slower like 1400 rpm.
Can you reverse the wing nut to the other side so you can open that side of the top you want? Can't tell from video but could be a solution - do it all the time with gold sluices
if youcan turn the wing nut/bolt around that may give you the the gap you need to open the cover?....Best of all to you and yours.....Be well and be safe...........🦜
@Roy Rocks . Thanks for the video .
I just picked mine up today , funny story , I mentioned i saw it on your vid to the lady,
She had a giggle and said she has heaps of enquires and purchases of these saws ever since you vid .
even one from Europe :D
Lovely lady and great business service .
They do seem nice and I think I'll be working with them into the future for sure.
If this is how good a cheap saw from them is I can't wait to see how their more expensive tools work.
I have a wet tile saw but was afraid to use it because I’d heard the speed made it too dangerous. This video has made me feel a lot better about trying it out. Thanks for the demonstration. I’m glad you mentioned water level. I would have likely made a huge mess.
Yeah I prefer 1400rpm but the 3000 really isnt too bad it you take it slow in terms of feeding the stone.
@@RoysRocks kind of like working with a chain saw. Don’t force it, let the blade do the work.
Nice video. Congrats on the new saw! I mostly use the cheapest blades and change them often. (They are only about $8 USD). I do have some sintered ones, but I tend to leave them on the saw (with the water in) and they rust. I treat my saws and the blades very poorly. I should be arrested for abuse - lucky saws don't have fingers ... or phones!
Haha I'm the type of guy to fully clean and disassemble an entire unit each use even if it is only $1. 😂
Congrats on the new tool. Having a trim saw makes like soooooo much easier!
My first arbor was pretty ancient, but was great because it could be set up with a trim saw on one side and an expandable drum on the other (which is how I had it configured). Was also variable speed, so I could crank up the RPMs when using saw.
I've seen those and they seem like smart units. Variable speed is a nice feature.
Gday Roy - thanks for this great review of our trim saw. Just to clarify on the blade situation - the thick blade in the package is the original tile blade. We leave it in and you can essentially regard it as a freebie. Keep it to use when you are doing a bathroom or kitchen reno. They will cut stone but with a lot of wastage and the blade is quite coarse. The two blades in the white sleeves are the electroplated and continuous rim blades - both suitable for lapidary work. Re the blade guard - one of your commenters suggested reversing the bolt. As you note, that wont work straight out but if you grind off two edges of the bolt to fit into the recess, then you would be able to reverse it and have the wing nut on opposite side where it doesnt obstruct the reservoir lid. Thank you for your feedback - we appreciate it.
Hi AussieSapphire, I didn't realise you had a youtube channel I'll have to link it in the description.
Probably wont use the electroplated like I said in the video but your sintered blade cuts smooth as.
I'll have to pick up a few more bits of gear in the future.
This is fantastic Roy, thanks for sharing your experience, I can't believe how affordable it is. Definitely something I'd consider buying now that I've seen it in action.
Yeah I can recommend them strongly especially for matrix slabbing. I just became reliant on the kindness of others letting me borrow their saws every few months.
Definitely looks good for those smaller required cuts in shaping.
It'll be much faster than doing it with the dremel disc thats for sure.
Great option at an affordable price. Thanks for sharing.
No worries. Yeah you can get a lot for $200 it turns out. I'm not sure why I didn't scoop one up earlier.
Thanks again for a step by step video. 👍
No worries.
Always hood to get tools to help have fun with it man
Another year another bunch of tools to show off.
On your first test cut there, I notice it pushes back at you at a high frequency, indicating the outside diameter is not concentric to the spindle. It's not necessarily the case with all cheaper machines, but they can have runout, and the arbor tolerances usually arent that tight. It's possible it's also a balance issue.
As a machinist and toolmaker I have a few thoughts on this to share.
The more concentric you can get it the better your cuts will be and you'll be less likely to blow chips out on the edge of the cut. If you're like me and this small amount of runout would annoy you (if it doesn't, disregard the rest of this comment :D), there's a few things you can try to reduce or eliminate it .
After fitting, run the blade and bring in a workpiece so it just touches. You can mark the high spot, back the nut of slightly, and tap the blade very lightly with a plastic or hide hammer. The lightest of taps. You dont need to move it much. You only want to overcome the friction between the flange and blade and not tap so hard the blade hits the spindle.
Another option can be to find something harder than the blade and dress it to concentricity, not an easy option as that usually requires something specialist.
You can also just experiment with backing the nut off, rotating the blade a few degrees, and testing it again. Probably the easiest and least risky way of truing it up.
I have dial indicators in my kit so that's what I'll use. Probably overkill but thats me. Like I said, I'm a toolmaker, its in my blood to be picky about it. I like taking budget machinery and touching it up to perform better in general as well. Cheaper tooling can be extremely viable with a bit more knowledge and I love to share it.
Good eye. The flange is just slightly off and I can machine another at work if I can be bothered. For all the fairy opal I have to slab up it isn't going to be a problem though.
Thanks Roy. Where did you purchase it from? I'm really interested in learning more about them all. Greetings to all opalites, out there. 😊
Aussie Sapphire, I forgot to put a link in the description. They seem like a good company.
Great review. 👍
Thanks man. Lets hope it lasts a while.
Might have to pick one of these up I think. Their $2100 cabber is also on sale, been dying to get that and do a review video. And they have pay in 4 option.
Ugh. Moving house sucks ass. I was meant to be doing all this right now with my tax return but have to move on Monday and move again in 6 months. Cant set up a workshop. Ugggghhhhhhhh it kills me so bad. I just wanna cut and polish my opals.
Life is a pain. Always hindering the opal cutting dreams.
One day I hope to set up a proper workshop and maybe get to do this full time.
interesting video 2x👍 very handy.
And even better cheap as!
I pulled the water catcher off my tile saw and turned the saw around so the water sprays away from me while i pull the piece towards me, also keeps the rock from flying at you if it catches the blade lol
I dont think I have ever cut pulling a stone towards me. You can still see the cut okay?
A fair few ppl do it that way but I agree with you mate I can't image there getting the best results pulling it towards you. There "straight" cuts would be all over the place😅 @@RoysRocks
I really enjoyed this one because I have been thinking about getting a wet tile saw and I wasn't sure if they're good enough to cut stones. I had a weird question come into my head as I watched you with the blade. I have seen videos where people somehow used the side of their saw blade to grind stones into ovals after they cut them.
But I am wondering if you could adapt the trim saw into a flat lap? With different discs and even a polishing pad?
Yes and no. It can be done with some adjustment if there is enough room to get a master lap on the arbor and the arbor + motor is strong enough to handle the grinding.
For a vertical flat lap you are better off mounting a motor and designing a shroud to contain the lap. Also better to be a bit slower like 1400 rpm.
Can you reverse the wing nut to the other side so you can open that side of the top you want? Can't tell from video but could be a solution - do it all the time with gold sluices
Nah the guard clip only has the nut retention on one side. With a washer and a longer bolt it could be done but would look a tad odd.
Good info but I am afraid I can't see much it s all black a bit dark the whole video .I even upped my light to the highest .
Yeah I thought that while editing it but the entire unit is black so not much can be done about it.
0.032" = ~0.80mm
Yeah just under a mm
Your video. Is too dark to see detail. Am I the only one not able to see this video due to it being too dark?
The entire unit is black or metal. The only parts you need to see are pretty easy to see as they contrast heavily to the black.
if youcan turn the wing nut/bolt around that may give you the the gap you need to open the cover?....Best of all to you and yours.....Be well and be safe...........🦜
Nah the guard clip only has the nut retention on one side. With a washer and a longer bolt it could be done but would look a tad odd.