I love my lanyard for multipitch trad climbing. Almost always have it on. It's just so useful. It's likely my forth most used piece of gear. Order being Harness, rope, belay device and forth my lanyard. I went out with a guide for a long multipitch which convinced me to not bring it. Totally a mistake, was missing it all the time. Not making that mistake again. I was at a self rescue course and had mine on all the time. I am like 90% convinced that the course leader was getting one afterwards. Literally every self/partner rescue task was made easier with a lanyard than a sling. Only time I don't use it is indoor sport climbing. I might use it on an autobelay. Being able to connect to a bolt and rest is really nice when working a hard route
Really like using a lanyard for ab'ing off because you can extend the lanyard to check the belay device & 3rd hand are locking before unclipping. I find this is a must for top-rope solo but also useful for ab'ing off sport routes (with set-back anchors) and sea cliffs.
I was anti lanyard for a long time. I always used a clove hitch on the rope. Still do on most circumstances. But the lanyard is a must have for rope solo climbing. And very convenient when teaching beginners multipitch climbing. I wouldn't use it on single pitch sport. Edit: and yes for clipsticking (/aiding) a project they are great too. I've heard some people mentioning that when you clipstick bolt to bolt you should use a prusik to take out the slack you create between you and the next bolt. But that would be super cumbersome...
I personally use a CAMP Swing adjustable lanyard with a tri-lock carabiner. I just do single pitch sport routes. Actually have a backup that's just a nylon sling that's not loaded but there is a backup to the camp swing that's fully loaded when at the anchors
Thanks Jez! I was wondering why you go for the lanyard for multipitch sport but not multipitch trad. I would just use the rope and clove in for both instances. However I do love adjustable lanyards for multiple hanging rappels! I have both the PIP and Connectadjust - I do love the compactness of the PIP but find it's way less smooth than the Connect when taking up slack to make it shorter.
Just 'cos you're already putting in gear etc, not as quick as arriving at the bolted belay and clipping straight in, plus you've got more real estate on your harness without the trad kit, personal choice of course! Very surprised at your PIP comment, I find it so much nicer to use than the Connect!
For carrying the lanyard I devised a method I've never seen anybody else do. Make a bight in the lanyard, feed the bight either up or down through your harness belt loop right by the soft part of your waist in front of your hip, then clip the bight with the free end. Out of the way of other gear, easily extendable, easy to put on. Only downside could be comfort if you are extra lean or really cinch harness super tight. Give it a try!
Nice video, thanks for your thoughts! Do you see any use or benefits for something like the Dual Connect Adjust? I bought one but basically only ever use the adjustable arm, and don't really use the nonadjustable arm of the two.
@@cosmos555 you could use it multi pitch abseiling. One has your belay device, the other is solely your tether on each ab station, but it still wouldn’t be something I’d bother with.
Before I had a Petzl connect adjust I never used a lanyard, but after it I use it all the time. It's mostly functioning as a no faff positioning device, niche but it's a real quality of life thing. Would however never ever use, or recommend anyone to buy a daisy chain style or one that's not adjustable, then you get better value out from a sling.
Got to be a specific type though. Petzl Connect, PIP etc aren't safe for that as they don't have the shock absorption properties required to meet the test standards.
Oh no, you misunderstood! The lanyard is IN ADDITION to the via ferrata set. I find it more comfortable to be able to position freely when I want to take a break.
i've only ever done trad, didnt even know it was a thing till a year or so ago, as never seen anyone use one, i don't see much use for one with the climbing i do i don't see many people backin up there absail ether to be honest i only started doing it the last few years also but i use a shunt not a prusic as i prefer it, althouh it can be a pain in the arse at times if the shunt gets fully loaded before your belay plate as you canny get it to release unless you unload it.
Not the topic of the video, but how do you find those blue ice slings you're using in the video? I'm looking at getting quite a few, but they're a bit more money than the other brands I usually get.
Anyone tried a 7.5mm dynamic rope on the RE Pip?? I would like to change the rope so I can make it more personalized for the different climbing I do, i.e. Multipich/caving/canyoning. 8mm is hard to find but I can order a 7.5 of Simond on Decathlon.
Many companies make 8mm dynamic. Eg, Mammut, Beal etc. They're usually not full rated (as a single) but given that it's not meant to catch a lead fall you're probably ok just using any 8mm half rope.
I don't think the procedure of clip sticking way above your last bolt is adequately safe due to the huge amount of slack you introduce. If your example happens or the single bolt fails, in some situations you'll hit the deck or possibly something on the way down. You wouldn't trust a single bolt in other situations. I clip stick above me with a load-bearing system (connected slings or dyneema with alpine butterflies tied in). While clipping there is no rope slack out at all so all the bolts below come into play. To move up you can clip into any of the slings for protection and yard up them if you need. The set of slings you clip with is so light that a small telescopic pole will do the job if you fix it to a Kong Panic. If I expect to dog up a route I'll just carry the set up as it's small and light, whereas I wouldn't want to carry a clip stick with me. Not easy to explain in words but it works for me and eliminates one risk that there is no need for in my opinion.
A reasonable answer of course but adequately safe is going to be situational and specific to the individual doing it. As I say, there’s better ways of doing it and I rarely do it these days, but I’m still potentially ok with it. If I’m not I rig something with the rope so I’m on two bolts.
I love my lanyard for multipitch trad climbing. Almost always have it on. It's just so useful. It's likely my forth most used piece of gear. Order being Harness, rope, belay device and forth my lanyard. I went out with a guide for a long multipitch which convinced me to not bring it. Totally a mistake, was missing it all the time. Not making that mistake again.
I was at a self rescue course and had mine on all the time. I am like 90% convinced that the course leader was getting one afterwards. Literally every self/partner rescue task was made easier with a lanyard than a sling.
Only time I don't use it is indoor sport climbing. I might use it on an autobelay. Being able to connect to a bolt and rest is really nice when working a hard route
Really like using a lanyard for ab'ing off because you can extend the lanyard to check the belay device & 3rd hand are locking before unclipping. I find this is a must for top-rope solo but also useful for ab'ing off sport routes (with set-back anchors) and sea cliffs.
I think this is a very important check, I do the same with a 120cm sling set up.
I was anti lanyard for a long time. I always used a clove hitch on the rope. Still do on most circumstances. But the lanyard is a must have for rope solo climbing. And very convenient when teaching beginners multipitch climbing. I wouldn't use it on single pitch sport. Edit: and yes for clipsticking (/aiding) a project they are great too. I've heard some people mentioning that when you clipstick bolt to bolt you should use a prusik to take out the slack you create between you and the next bolt. But that would be super cumbersome...
I personally use a CAMP Swing adjustable lanyard with a tri-lock carabiner. I just do single pitch sport routes.
Actually have a backup that's just a nylon sling that's not loaded but there is a backup to the camp swing that's fully loaded when at the anchors
They're decent 😊
Bought the Rock Empire PIP very recently. Absolutely love it and I do think it's better and smoother than my friends Petzl connect.
Great, glad you like it!
Thanks Jez! I was wondering why you go for the lanyard for multipitch sport but not multipitch trad. I would just use the rope and clove in for both instances. However I do love adjustable lanyards for multiple hanging rappels! I have both the PIP and Connectadjust - I do love the compactness of the PIP but find it's way less smooth than the Connect when taking up slack to make it shorter.
Just 'cos you're already putting in gear etc, not as quick as arriving at the bolted belay and clipping straight in, plus you've got more real estate on your harness without the trad kit, personal choice of course!
Very surprised at your PIP comment, I find it so much nicer to use than the Connect!
For carrying the lanyard I devised a method I've never seen anybody else do. Make a bight in the lanyard, feed the bight either up or down through your harness belt loop right by the soft part of your waist in front of your hip, then clip the bight with the free end. Out of the way of other gear, easily extendable, easy to put on. Only downside could be comfort if you are extra lean or really cinch harness super tight. Give it a try!
I'll try it 👊
Nice video, thanks for your thoughts! Do you see any use or benefits for something like the Dual Connect Adjust? I bought one but basically only ever use the adjustable arm, and don't really use the nonadjustable arm of the two.
@@cosmos555 for normal climbing stuff, no I don’t see the point in the Dual style one. A single works well when I want a lanyard.
@@JBMountainSkills thanks! Still left wondering whenever that second arm could be useful.
@@cosmos555 you could use it multi pitch abseiling. One has your belay device, the other is solely your tether on each ab station, but it still wouldn’t be something I’d bother with.
Before I had a Petzl connect adjust I never used a lanyard, but after it I use it all the time.
It's mostly functioning as a no faff positioning device, niche but it's a real quality of life thing.
Would however never ever use, or recommend anyone to buy a daisy chain style or one that's not adjustable, then you get better value out from a sling.
Agreed, not sure of any real use for a daisy chain style one outside of aid climbing.
The most valuable use for lanyards are via ferratas for me.
Got to be a specific type though. Petzl Connect, PIP etc aren't safe for that as they don't have the shock absorption properties required to meet the test standards.
Oh no, you misunderstood! The lanyard is IN ADDITION to the via ferrata set. I find it more comfortable to be able to position freely when I want to take a break.
@@three-alpha-six phew, that relaxes me somewhat 😂
Thanks
Welcome!
i've only ever done trad, didnt even know it was a thing till a year or so ago, as never seen anyone use one, i don't see much use for one with the climbing i do i don't see many people backin up there absail ether to be honest i only started doing it the last few years also but i use a shunt not a prusic as i prefer it, althouh it can be a pain in the arse at times if the shunt gets fully loaded before your belay plate as you canny get it to release unless you unload it.
Where you based? Most people in the UK seem to back up an abseil, usually with a Prusik rather than a shunt though.
Not the topic of the video, but how do you find those blue ice slings you're using in the video? I'm looking at getting quite a few, but they're a bit more money than the other brands I usually get.
Really like them. Seem to be lasting well and come undone a little easier once they’ve been loaded too.
@@JBMountainSkills Might have to buy some then. Thanks.
Anyone tried a 7.5mm dynamic rope on the RE Pip?? I would like to change the rope so I can make it more personalized for the different climbing I do, i.e. Multipich/caving/canyoning. 8mm is hard to find but I can order a 7.5 of Simond on Decathlon.
Many companies make 8mm dynamic.
Eg, Mammut, Beal etc.
They're usually not full rated (as a single) but given that it's not meant to catch a lead fall you're probably ok just using any 8mm half rope.
I don't think the procedure of clip sticking way above your last bolt is adequately safe due to the huge amount of slack you introduce. If your example happens or the single bolt fails, in some situations you'll hit the deck or possibly something on the way down. You wouldn't trust a single bolt in other situations. I clip stick above me with a load-bearing system (connected slings or dyneema with alpine butterflies tied in). While clipping there is no rope slack out at all so all the bolts below come into play. To move up you can clip into any of the slings for protection and yard up them if you need. The set of slings you clip with is so light that a small telescopic pole will do the job if you fix it to a Kong Panic. If I expect to dog up a route I'll just carry the set up as it's small and light, whereas I wouldn't want to carry a clip stick with me. Not easy to explain in words but it works for me and eliminates one risk that there is no need for in my opinion.
A reasonable answer of course but adequately safe is going to be situational and specific to the individual doing it.
As I say, there’s better ways of doing it and I rarely do it these days, but I’m still potentially ok with it. If I’m not I rig something with the rope so I’m on two bolts.