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VGRestore Ep53: SFC Glitchy Graphics
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- Опубликовано: 22 апр 2021
- This series I go through my own process and troubleshooting steps in fixing old electronics and other gaming related items. Keep in mind I'm not a professional technician, I don't have any degrees or any other formal training, these videos are only for your fun and entertainment.
Contact Info:
Email: Punkanddisorderlygamer@gmail.com
Reddit: u/PunkNDisorderlyGamer
Hey just a quick note, ppu1 controls the background layers (can't remember if it does mode 7 and ppu2 controls effects (IIRC color window, mosaic, ect)
Edit: ppu2 is effects, ppu1 is back round (tiles) and translations of those tiles
www.copetti.org/writings/consoles/super-nintendo/
This is incredible! Wow, you get the pinned comment, very informative!
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamerthanks! Just wanted to help and share my knowledge with everyone
Late for the last one but I'm ready for it. Now go get some rest so I can watch some more older videos. Love watching these resto videos.
Just to say Thanks ! Same problem with my Snes CPU-GPM-01, change PPU1 and OK again !
Nice job👍 did it have the same fault as this video?
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer Exactly the same problem. I tested it with the test rom and everything ok. Then I tested it with SMW and DK1. The glitch in DK1 is the same as yours. In SMW , Mario fail too.
Love the channel man! You should do a video showcasing your equipment and work room setup. We would love to see where your doing these awsome repairs.
loving all these uploads keep it up man :D
Well done/thank you sir!
Thanks, I’m taking a break for a while.
Question: why wouldn't you try resoldering first before replacing the chip? It could may well be that there's a cold solder joint under a pin and resoldering would have solved it. Cheers!
Man 4 videos this good job
Yeah but I may take the weekend off.
Another Component leg saved the day lol...
I would like to see the repair of the Italian model, here it is called SUPER NINTENDO, do you know?
No, I’ve never heard of it before.
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer the external aspect and that of the super famicom, but it says super Nintendo, like the American model, but I think it is the same as the super famicom as electronics, only that the video is PAL, but there are original and unused replacement chips?
It's been awhile with no new videos. You doing alright man?
I’m alright, I just haven’t had any time to seek or do any new projects.
What kind of heat gun and desolderer do you use, Punk? Thanks for the videos. I have a SNES I'm trying to revive, but it's failing the multiply/divide tests. I'm assuming a bad CPU.
Heat gun is an 858D or a clone it’s a cheap Chinese one I got for around $45-60 on Amazon. And desoldering gun is a Hakko FR301.
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer Thank you, been meaning to add one of those to my toolset. I had another question; can an SHVC model CPU be used in an SNS-001? And which revision started using the CPUB design?
@@Renulph yes CPUs are interchangeable. Usually CPU-B is the most reliable, I’ve never had a bad one yet. I think CPU-B started in the late run GPM-01s, definitely GPM-02 all had CPU-B
Hey Punkndisorderly! I took your advice and put out an add to buy up local broken snes/nes and have been happily restoring ever since! I got ONE tricky one that I can’t use the burn and test cart on for an snes. It wouldn’t power on and upon testing with my meter I wasn’t getting continuity on the fuse so I swapped it out and it fired up! So now It starts up fine, then loses color, then by the time I can get down to the testing section, the screen loses color then starts to roll and I can’t read the results of the test! Another thing o noticed since I had the cover off is a few moments after starting it up the thick aluminum cover near the power fuse heats up quickly! I’m guessing there has to be a short somewhere but I was wondering if there’s anywhere I should start troubleshooting in particular? Thank you for these vids and thanks for all the help!!!
That thick aluminum piece is a heatsink, it’s attached to the 7805 voltage regulator to dissipate heat. If the console powers up and loads the burn test cart then it’s likely not a short on the board. I’m willing to bet that the video caps are bad, I would swap them. Also, before you swap the caps test the RF port to see if the problems still persist. Let me know how it turns out.
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer thank you! Going to test the RF port tomorrow and go from there and I will keep you posted!
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer well... I may have royally screwed it up... I was testing through the av instead of rf and it was doing the same thing, however, while I had it on the testing table my stupid hand fumbled and I dropped the loose power switch perfectly to where it laid across like three of the cpu pins... it made a buzzing sound on the tv and I completely lost all video now in both ports. 😭 fml 🤦♂️ it still powers on and the screen flickers but video is gone. Maybe if it was a capacitor going bad that caused it to completely fry? Hoping that short didn’t fry the CPU... wondering if I should proceed with replacing caps or if this puppy is dead now. Lol omg I can’t believe I did that.........
Update 😂 I fried my burn-in test cart in the process as well. Whatever I shorted out must have also ran to the pins.
@@tonu115 damn that’s bad, are you sure, did you try you test cart on another console? I wouldn’t even swap the caps at this point.
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer yeah... I tested the cart on a working unit. Lesson learned lol!!! Gotta watch the ol fumble hands! But hey! I got another board for dirt cheap that I think just has a bad ppu so maybe this prestige board I just fried the chip on, can be a donor 😃
I just bought a cheap SNES motherboard on Ebay and it runs well for the most part but every once in a while I get vertical lines on everything for a split second. I think it's the beginning stages of PPU1 failing. Thoughts? Also can a PPU1 be removed without a hot air gun and without low melt solder?
I don’t see how you could remove the chip without hot air or chipquik? You might have a bad ppu for sure.
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer Thanks. I wonder if I could use solder wick to get rid of the solder under the pins to free them; sounds pretty hard though. I would probably end up lifting some pads. Lol.
Hi, I'm Rodrigo from Chile. I have a question?
my snes has sound problems but not image. Have you seen this problem? and how it can be repaired.
thanks, excellent videos, greetings
Yeah I’ve seen this before, I had a snes that sounded like a tin can or an amp with electric guitar distortion. It had a removable SHVC sound module I replaced it and it was fine. If that doesn’t solve your problem you can try replacing the capacitors, sometimes the audio caps go bad. If that doesn’t help you may have a bad ram chip or audio chip.
But before you try replacing any components try with a different set of cables and also try the RF port to see if audio comes in clear on the RF.
Serious skill with them ppu,s ,just wondering what that liquid is?
The liquid is flux, thanks for watching
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer cool thanks for the reply so quick and I suppose I should have asked what the paste you applied at the start of the removal
Thanks
@@TR-vm6gu oh haha that is also flux.
Flux comes in many different types, the petroleum jelly kind is flux paste, the liquid is liquid no clean flux. If you’re repairing electronics keep in mind to avoid flux for plumbing applications.
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer that's great thanks man I'm currently working my way through your videos there super informative and interesting you make replacement of those chips look really simple even though I know its not ,I'm going to practice plenty on some junk electronics before I attempt this on one of my glitchy super Nintendos 😀 thanks again for the reply
Hey man, the process you do in this video with the graphics chip is the exact same as what one would have to do to replace the hdmi chip in a wii u 🤔
nice video! Also question, I recently got my pal snes and when I connect it to the TV with the game it just has a silverish/black screen, tho when I press the reset button it goes static for a moment and then nothing happends, got any tips how to fix this? anything would help.
Also the led lamp turns on too
If you’re using a pal snes on pal tv you shouldn’t be getting black and white. Try RF or AV which ever you haven’t tried yet, see if the problem is the same. You may need to replace the capacitors or perhaps tune/replace the trimmer capacitor labeled TC1. I had a black and white picture and I replaced TC1 and it solved the problem, but it’s very rare I think 1 out of the 60-75 units I’ve fixed. I don’t even think it went bad, I think someone tweaked it too far and broke it.
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer ight thanks, but it dosen't show the game it self at all, the screen is just black and theres no sound
@@lowercase7455 then you probably have a bad chip or corrosion on the board.
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer hmmm, I'll try to clean it when I get the gamebit so then I will see in detail what's wrong with it, thanks alot tho!
What wattage is your soldering iron that you are using here?
Great video. My SNES has a problem: Only one games works. All others I tried show a black screen or only a few seconds of the intro. I don't know what's so special about the game that still works: Terminator II The Arcade Game. I don't intend to repair it: No skills and no parts, and for one game it still works. But I'm really curious what is causing the issue. Watching your other videos I think it's the CPU...
Most likely tbh.
what soldering iron do you use? and average hot air temp and soldering iron temp for ppu chips
Any plans on some new videos in the near future?
Sir!!! what is proper temperture for remving chip?
@@Bad_at_English 350 Celsius.
New video coming??
Hi. Can you please add some contact info? I think I have a lead for the cpu/ppu sockets.
I’m really not doing any repairs at the moment but if you want to send me an email.
Punkanddisorderlygamer@gmail.com
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer Thank you. Mail sent.
DIV 16/8 is the cpu?
Ppu2
WRONG