this particular design was very infurating. get the one with the double button that you just press both with your palm. works like a charm and has plenty of flow. and wont rot out with the water collecting fuel we have now.
So far so good. I’ve filled it twice and it’s great getting 13 gallons at one shot ruclips.net/user/postUgkx-vlHjazTv30m_UAq9Ht-fuPo2jBx7tTx . It pumps out by using gravity so the bottom of the tank needs to be above the vessel you're filling. Not a drop spilled filling the generator three times. Let’s see where we’re at after 20 fills.
Nice video. I did the same with the lever model. Pulled the safety trigger. Another way to vent is 1/8" drill hole and a golf tee. I like the 3/4" hose idea. Thanks!
I found a good trick to use when drilling holes in plastic with a bit or a hole saw. Since drilling plastic the bits bite too aggressively. I overcome this problem by running the drill in reverse. It drills the hole but does not bite hard. This technique is also especially useful when using a hole saw too. It works, believe or not, next time try it.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I had a good laugh watching you struggling to put the vent cap in. I was laughing at you. I only write this because it is usually me having a hard time with things like this so it's good to see I'm not the only one. That tube extension looks like it would be a good thing to have greater control on the pour.
This is right up there with tearing the label off the mattress... LOL! Great idea! I HATE these new cans, they spill gas everywhere except where you need it to go. Bravo sir!
Thanks for your video, I was going to buy one from Walmart and I noticed I couldn't work the spout so I did not buy it. But now I can and then fix it. Thanks
Cody, why don't you just put the vent cap on the side of the handle or where no seam is. Seems like you had enough failures to demonstrate that it should not be put on the seam!
IF I DIDN'T KNOW BETTER I'D SAY HE'S THE ONE WHO IS MAKING THEM. HE CAN'T EVEN FIX ONE WITHOUT SCREWING IT UP. TRY REINVENTING THE WHEEL. THAT SHOULD BE REAL HILARIOUS! ITS SATURDAY NIGHT LIVE!
So have I. I get about 36 inch long wire and make a knot halfway down it, and then thread the valve stem (inside end first) over the wire. When inserting it I thread the wire through the spout, through the top of the can and out the hole I drilled. I then pull the wire and attached tire valve stem through the can and pull it out through the drilled hole. When in place, there is still enough wire on the back side that I can then pull the wire back out through the spout, leaving only the valve stem.
The rubber on the base of those, and the rubber for the entire stem on car types don't stand up to gas for too long. Try a brass "back seat" valve instead. A little bit more work and ingenuity to get one installed, but will last a lifetime.
I would use a bigger one. 1/4 inch and solder a washer in the screw driver slot to make it no tool. Vent hole in the side of handle. Solder gun weld to fix crack if you have that problem.
might sound silly but when working on it fill it with water to give it more support and keep it from exploding if gas has been in it then use a hot piece of metal to finish the hole to size and get the vent in while the plastic is still warm to keep the can from splitting . I've used a similar method to make holes before in plastic containers to install metal fittings that needed to be water tight for livestock water applications.
The new style takes about 25 minutes to empty my 6 gallon can. When it is 20 below zero outside it takes longer because your hands freeze and you have to take breaks to warm up. I put a vent hole in one and plugged it with a pen.
Haha, I'm up for anything if it will bypass that crazy mess. I'm almost to the point that I would rather take a big swig and then spit it into my riding mower tank until it's full instead of dealing with it.
He actually made it much safer. I can't tell you how many times I have had pressurized gas spray all over me and a hot lawnmower engine. The stupid valves leak badly too. It makes me wonder how many horrible deaths have resulted from these EPA fails. Of course, we hear nothing about it.
You probably violated EPA regulation 555.23 subsection c and are subject to a $10,000 fine and or 5 years in prison for each can modified. Just think, when you are serving your 15 years, one of your mates asks you, what are you in for? I modified the spouts on three Walmart gas jugs.
an old BMX biker trick was to use hair spray instead of lube on handle grips. It dries tacky and will not slip off. You may try that on the tubing next time.
On the seam use RTV (Room-Temperature- Vulcanization silicone) you can find it in the auto parts section. The red is good with fuels and high temp and should match nicely with the can.
As long as the location of the vent cap is located near either side on the panels an inch below the handle,you won’t have any issue with splitting. I done this around four times with no failures so far.
If they just gave you a cap to go on the spout and a vent cap and when people are done pouring their gas put the cap on and closed the vent all good. The EPA over thinks things. Great video, thanks for sharing.
I recently added a vent to one of my older fuel jugs and they said to use a step drill bit and DO NOT use a regular metal drill bit. I used a regular metal drill bit on one a couple years ago and it did not make a clean square shouldered hole and when vent was inserted it split the seam. When I put the last one in last summer 2023, I used the step bit and it worked great., no splitting. I do have a couple jugs that have the vent on the side in solid plastic away from the seam, so I think in the future I will install the vents, high up on the side of the fuel jug.
I can't tell on the specific cans that you're using, but many gas cans are still made in the same molds today as they were when they were vented, but only with the hole removed. Usually there is a flat spot where the vent would go that is thicker than the rest of the material and they won't break out when you insert a vent. It's super obvious on the 5 gallon Blitz brand cans where it is and it's lower than the handle area, which is pretty much the thinnest part of the entire can (due to the way blow molding works it would be hard to get a bunch of material up there). If you do another tank, I suggest you try installing the vent behind the handle. When the can is tipped up it should be in about the ideal location. Also, that's not a "weld seam", it's a parting line where the two halves of the bow mold meet during manufacturing. The tank is manufactured as one part, although that line is a stress riser which is why a crack develops in that area. If you can't find a better approach, I'd recommend simply trying a bigger bit and applying a little bit of sealer to the vent if you want. When I did my Blitz cans I think I went up 2 drill sizes from recommended and the vent still fit plenty snug (but I did use a little RTV just to play it safe).
As far as the vent is concerned I make a small hole which I then shove a golf tee in. The tapered shape of the golf tee completely seals the hole. 1 cent.
I just received a set of the yellow vent caps with the retainer lip today. I took a caliper and measured forward of the lip. I get about 31/64" (12.5mm). However rear of the lip I am getting about 34/64 (13.5mm). This would explain the splitting welds. It would appear that a hole of around 33/64 (13.4mm) would be better.
Does that poly venal tube hold up to gas? I’d love to add that to all my cans. Finding the normal spout on Amazon was a god send. I spilled more gas with that dumb EPA spout. I get the theory, but it a complete failure in practice. I bought extra spouts for possible future gas can needs.
POLY vinyl tubing is not Gasoline safe. It will degrade over time. DO NOT USE polyvinyl tubing. Cans are made of polyethylene for this reason. Gas cans are pressurized containers.
Another “We’re the Government; let us help you!” solution that doesn’t work as intended. I recently bought a 2 gallon can with a potable generator and ended up with about a cup on the ground trying to fill the generator with the can. It’s a PITA trying to fill the can too. Thanks for the hacks!!
Just remove the o-ring from inside. Once this is done the internal locking slide comes out and the spring can be removed. The locking slide can be replaced without the spring to cover the slit in the yellow spout. Replace the o-ring to keep the slide from coming back out. I just purchased one and haven't tried gas in it yet, but that seems to be the easiest fix for the hard to pull back locking mechanism. PITA.
I've drilled a smaller hole and did not use a vent cap of any kind. It works great and no spills.If you do drill a small hole in the handle it is not likely to leak and vents the gas just fine when pouring.
Another mess created by the federal government because of a stupid regulation. How on Earth anybody could think the government can do practically anything right is beyond me.
The splits in the seam can be welded by using a soldering iron and melting the two sides of plastic back together. Heat it up and smear it in small circles. Works better than glue.
A good alternative way of sealing cracks is to use a cheap soldering iron to melt/weld the plastic back together. You can use a similar piece of plastic to add as "filler" material. I use zip ties as my filler materiel and they come in all colors. bend a couple pieces of wire like paperclip shapes and melt them into the plastic as well to use like stitches, which will prevent further weak spots from cracking later. I wouldn't recommend doing this to a can that has gas fumes inside it. Common sense here, but If it's been used, make sure to rinse the can thoroughly with water and air dried before attempting.
To slide that hose on easier, use hand soap or dish soap - doesn't matter - and works way better than anything else I've ever used. You can slide that poly line right on without much strain. Also, stop drilling on your seams - you're ruining the bottle. Find a flat spot above where the fuel will reside. All you're doing is equalizing the air pressure with the outside air. Great solution!
Great video. Thanks for the information. I went out before the hurricane season started and bought a nice funnel and I take off the gas can cap and pour through the funnel. Problem solved!
You didn't notice any fuel spilling from the hole in the spout where the "no spill" spring valve used to be? I think that's my main concern with these thing. When filling my chainsaw, I have to hold it with my hand, and I get fuel all over my hand, which I'm pretty sure is coming from that black spring loaded valve.
I cut most of the spout off with a hacksaw and threaded in a 1/2" male pipe thread X 5/8" male flare brass fitting. Then put 5/8" copper tube on after I flared the one end.
Vent idea: Put a fender and a rubber roofing screw washers onto a longer smooth roofing nail as a plug. Then drill a press-fit-sized hole for it - top opposite the spout, non weld area.
Good job. Maybe you could avoid seam cracking by drilling your vent hole off-center or reinforcing the seam area with a tie wrap. Keep up the nifty videos.
Alternative hacks... I've used old tire stems to add a vent, but sometimes have trouble getting the right diameter with a step drill bit (maybe standard bit of appropriate size next time. I've also just used a nail for a vent plug. I have used chair leg / table leg tips of an APPROPRIATE SIZE as a replacement spout cap. I've had several of the Midwest gas can collars split and leak. I blame my wife; she helps when I take 5-6 cans to Kroger gas station. At 60+, she's not exactly a body builder but the mechanical advantage or the threads tends to crack the collar if she is not careful. My e-mail to customer service suggesting better design or replacing or subsidizing a replacement collar didn't even get an answer. Superglue/baking soda didn't work out. I wonder if gasket maker might provide a fix that doesn't involve buying replacement spout at about half the price of an entire (failure-prone) gas can. Last Midwest can I bought had a conical screen down in the gas can. The purpose seems to be to slow the filling speed so that the gas pump keeps shutting off. I can't be to keep debris out of my gas tanks, that would require putting the screen in the spout. If what they did were to actually prevent debris from the pump getting in the gas can, it's just going to flow into the tank when the gas can is emptied (unless the debris is so large it catches your attention before putting on the spout).
Thankfully I have both metal and plastic cans I bought in the sixties and seventies. The only "New and EPA Approved" can I own has been modified to work like an old container.
Thanks! I'll have to try this out. To make the vent hole, I use an awl and work out the hole, to avoid getting debris in the gas, that a drill bit might leave. Does the gasoline have any negative effects on the polyvinyl tubing? When I used to use Ethanol, it would eat up the poly tubing gas line in my weed eater gas tank, like crazy, whereas 100% gas would not.
That is a great fix but I don’t think the clear tube will last very long with constant exposer to gasoline. If you could find a thin metal tube or pipe, I think that would make a better sleeve. There is also a gasoline resistant glue you can get (from auto parts stores) that could be used to seal the metal pipe to the plastic spout so it wouldn’t leak while poring gas.
you might try a little vasoline on the air vent and a nylon zip tie on the extension hose, jb weld is great stuff I have actually repaired steel gas tanks with it good video
Did you ever have the spring loaded nozzle stick open? I have. One of my neighbors did too. It overflowed the fuel tank and caught on fire and she died as a result. What will the goverment have to say about their stupid ideas when it fails to operate as it should.
Keep the part that slides on top. Instead of cutting inner spout remove o-ring dissemble remove spring reassemble done. Now it still seals while not in use and don't have to buy other parts Works ok since we're not allowed to have the good ones anymore. Government just wants us to spill more gas, means we have to buy more.
Take a soldering iron and weld the seam back. You can use a piece of oil bottle plastic to add to the weld to make it thicker. There are some good videos on here on how to do that. I fixed an old weed eater gas tank like that.
I heat a large coffee cup of water of water to boiling to heat up vinyl garden hose and other plastic tubing. I don't have a heat gun and I think it heats the tubing more evenly than a heat gun would.
an old microwave in the garage comes in handy. Warm water or the tubing. Plus I use it to warm old rolls of tape. It makes them usable again. Only takes 15 seconds. Oh and for my coffee when it gets cold.
I liked what I saw you doing but could not read the info on the plastic tubing and where did you get the plugs for the end? What are they called. Do you have any suggestions as to how to get the shavings out of tank. I try to be careful but doesn't work every time. Thanks.
I have no idea why the EPA ordered the nozzle change but whatever it was for it backfired and has forced me to spill way more fuel than I ever did. If you have a heat gun, heat the tube before sliding it on and forget the lubricant. I learned years ago putting my pool hoses on the filter and skimmer that 15 seconds of heat made allowed me to slide those hoses on like butter.
Don't drill the hole for the vent on a seam and you don't have to worry about the seam breaking. Just put it the side of the handle rather than on the seam. Or put it down lower on the can where there is no seam. Great ideas!!
Try making the hole a bit smaller than you need and heat up an old 1/2" drill bit on the shank end and melt it into the hole. This will keep the tank frm splitting... Or.. just drill somewhere else on the top of the can and not on the seam.
Thanks for help in disassembling these abominations. As to the vent, of course it doesn't need to be at the very top or on the can seam. Since you've already bought a rubber stopper for the new nozzle just use a stopper in the vent hole you've drilled. One more problem solved.
Other countries don't follow EPA rules, gas cans are sold world wide. There is a flat spot at the rear of the handle where there is no seam and the plastic is thicker. That's where the vent is on non-EPA gas cans.
The real question is can this polyvinyl tubing withstand the solvent nature of gasoline? I’d hate to put a gas/dissolved plastic concoction in any of my engines.
Good Video. Nice showing possible mistakes. I'll likely use your tubing bit. However... JB Weld is really good against gasoline. So I would have drilled a deliberate oversized hole, to avoid stressing the plastic. Then? JB Weld the vent cap into place, taking up any extra space with the weld compound. Easy in, no leak, no stress.
I converted mine for less then 20 cents. I ripped out the guts of the nozzle rapped it with electrical tape the drilled a hole in the top of the handle and put a small screw to fit the hole done. Less then three minutes to do.
To install vent: DON'T drill on the seam; use a 1/2" spade bit, and feed it lightly to get a perfect round hole (you could use a hole saw or forntster [sp?] bit if you have one); use a short piece of 1/2" galvanized pipe to press in the vent.
My fix for the yellow spout is as follows: put a hose clamp around the spout, push down on the lock/lever thingy and tighten the clamp. It will hold the lock/lever thingy down making it possible to pour. This is a quickie fix but there is still the vent problem.
Those damn cans are tippy also. I have to tie them down and put something heavy next to the gas cans so they don't tip over in my truck bed. I love the old style with the bigger bases and easy to use spouts.
Thanks for making this video, the first time I used that low profile one I'm thinking, WTF, can the make something even more complicated and harder to use?
+John Andrew Serrano Garcia they wanted a sealed container that wouldn't evaporate into the atmosphere. The new ones don't evaporate.....they spill all over
All that vapor is trapped in the can until you open it. Internal pressure pushes all that vapor out negating the benefit of the "missing vent". Just wait until they realize who stupid they made these cans. The next design will have an internal bladder bag to hold the fuel plus a fuel vapor canister to absorb the fuel vapors - like the EVAP canisters on cars. Then we can spill more gas.
The vent caps are available online I got a couple dozen for a buck they're very cheap if you buy them right be patient takes a less than half inch hole drilled they pop right in no big deal
Who ever invented the "non spill" spout needs to be horse whipped .
I've never spilt more gas in my life.
Horse whipped?? They to given an enema with their spouts!
I literally bought a mower and hundreds of feet of cord to avoid buying the post 2009 cans.
@@bermchasin Think of the electrical juice you waste filling the cord!
this particular design was very infurating. get the one with the double button that you just press both with your palm. works like a charm and has plenty of flow. and wont rot out with the water collecting fuel we have now.
not to mention all the tiny joints they add cause you to lose more gas than you actually are transferring
So far so good. I’ve filled it twice and it’s great getting 13 gallons at one shot ruclips.net/user/postUgkx-vlHjazTv30m_UAq9Ht-fuPo2jBx7tTx . It pumps out by using gravity so the bottom of the tank needs to be above the vessel you're filling. Not a drop spilled filling the generator three times. Let’s see where we’re at after 20 fills.
Thanks, I thought I was the only one who thought these new cans were crap. Good ole American ingenuity!!!
Lawyers
I spill more gas using the POS new cap then I ever did with the old style
MAGA TRUMP I agree
Nice video. I did the same with the lever model. Pulled the safety trigger. Another way to vent is 1/8" drill hole and a golf tee. I like the 3/4" hose idea. Thanks!
God I hate those californicated nozzles. Thanks a LOT for your video!
Thanks for figuring out some solutions and showing us what you came up with... a lot like having an interesting, imaginative next door neighbor.
Thsnks
I found a good trick to use when drilling holes in plastic with a bit or a hole saw. Since drilling plastic the bits bite too aggressively. I overcome this problem by running the drill in reverse. It drills the hole but does not bite hard. This technique is also especially useful when using a hole saw too. It works, believe or not, next time try it.
can confirm i always use holesaws in reverse when i have to cut a hole in vinyl siding
...a Uni-Bit step bit, used with very light pressure, works well...
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I had a good laugh watching you struggling to put the vent cap in. I was laughing at you. I only write this because it is usually me having a hard time with things like this so it's good to see I'm not the only one. That tube extension looks like it would be a good thing to have greater control on the pour.
Never drill on the seam. Move it over to a flat area. I buy my gas can's at garage sales. Old style cans from years past. I usually pay a buck for it.
It is a good point but I've done over a dozen with no failures.
So glad I still have 3 of my pre EPA era gas cans...
This is right up there with tearing the label off the mattress... LOL! Great idea! I HATE these new cans, they spill gas everywhere except where you need it to go. Bravo sir!
Thank GOD for you! I had no idea how to even use this can, but it was all they had! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!
Jazsy Ali these are the easiest can on the market. try using a Briggs and Stratton or a Midwest can then see how easy these are.
Thanks for your video, I was going to buy one from Walmart and I noticed I couldn't work the spout so I did not buy it. But now I can and then fix it. Thanks
+Bill Cleveland glad I could help
Cody, why don't you just put the vent cap on the side of the handle or where no seam is. Seems like you had enough failures to demonstrate that it should not be put on the seam!
+David Cayll good idea. I'll do it next time
my first thought too.
I was thinking the same. But still great video.
Me 3
IF I DIDN'T KNOW BETTER I'D SAY HE'S THE ONE WHO IS MAKING THEM. HE CAN'T EVEN FIX ONE WITHOUT SCREWING IT UP. TRY REINVENTING THE WHEEL. THAT SHOULD BE REAL HILARIOUS! ITS SATURDAY NIGHT LIVE!
Thanks for the tips. Have been very frustrated by the EPA spout. Am converting now.
I just keep on using my steel gas cans from back in the 80's. Was interesting to watch this though.
I USE A METAL TRUCK TIRE VALVE STEM WITH THE CORE REMOVED FOR THE VENT
Good for you.
So have I. I get about 36 inch long wire and make a knot halfway down it, and then thread the valve stem (inside end first) over the wire. When inserting it I thread the wire through the spout, through the top of the can and out the hole I drilled. I then pull the wire and attached tire valve stem through the can and pull it out through the drilled hole. When in place, there is still enough wire on the back side that I can then pull the wire back out through the spout, leaving only the valve stem.
@@donald6815 No, good for you.
The rubber on the base of those, and the rubber for the entire stem on car types don't stand up to gas for too long. Try a brass "back seat" valve instead. A little bit more work and ingenuity to get one installed, but will last a lifetime.
THANK YOU! Hate these new cans.
A 1/8” sheet metal screw works great. Take the screw out when you need a vent, replace when done.
I would use a bigger one. 1/4 inch and solder a washer in the screw driver slot to make it no tool. Vent hole in the side of handle. Solder gun weld to fix crack if you have that problem.
Whittled stick in drilled hole.works also!
might sound silly but when working on it fill it with water to give it more support and keep it from exploding if gas has been in it then use a hot piece of metal to finish the hole to size and get the vent in while the plastic is still warm to keep the can from splitting . I've used a similar method to make holes before in plastic containers to install metal fittings that needed to be water tight for livestock water applications.
Good idea
I like how you showed also How not to do it, great teacher.
The new style takes about 25 minutes to empty my 6 gallon can. When it is 20 below zero outside it takes longer because your hands freeze and you have to take breaks to warm up. I put a vent hole in one and plugged it with a pen.
Great job, now we're all going to die because you bypassed the EPA's fix to save the world.
+Rayzer it'll be worth it
Haha, I'm up for anything if it will bypass that crazy mess. I'm almost to the point that I would rather take a big swig and then spit it into my riding mower tank until it's full instead of dealing with it.
He actually made it much safer. I can't tell you how many times I have had pressurized gas spray all over me and a hot lawnmower engine. The stupid valves leak badly too. It makes me wonder how many horrible deaths have resulted from these EPA fails. Of course, we hear nothing about it.
You probably violated EPA regulation 555.23 subsection c and are subject to a $10,000 fine and or 5 years in prison for each can modified.
Just think, when you are serving your 15 years, one of your mates asks you, what are you in for? I modified the spouts on three Walmart gas jugs.
William Terry save the shitty nozzle for gassing up and use the good one when you get home. How would they know?
an old BMX biker trick was to use hair spray instead of lube on handle grips. It dries tacky and will not slip off. You may try that on the tubing next time.
awesome, thanks.
Couldn't you drill the hole in the side of the handle? Avoiding the seam all together?
Thank you sir for sharing. I used a tire valve stem for a vent. After watching tractor mike. I had used the yellow vent caps but were not durable.
On the seam use RTV (Room-Temperature- Vulcanization silicone) you can find it in the auto parts section. The red is good with fuels and high temp and should match nicely with the can.
I'd drill the vent hole in the side of the handle, near where it joins the tank, to avoid splitting the seam.
drill a hole for a snug fit for a tooth pick. Done.
How about installing a tire valve stem for a vent?
(Remove valve core, of course.)
I really cheat. I drill a 1/8" hole and put a #10 woos screw in it. Turns out by hand quite easily. Costs me pennies.
As long as the location of the vent cap is located near either side on the panels an inch below the handle,you won’t have any issue with splitting. I done this around four times with no failures so far.
That's fancy....I always whittle down a piece of wood or a wine cork for stoppers for both the line and the vent hole. ;)
Tractor Supply sells a retro fit for these cans.
The retrofit spouts cost as much as a new gas can from what I've seen.
Nice. You just solve my problem with my 5 lbs tanks. Thank you.
If they just gave you a cap to go on the spout and a vent cap and when people are done pouring their gas put the cap on and closed the vent all good. The EPA over thinks things. Great video, thanks for sharing.
I recently added a vent to one of my older fuel jugs and they said to use a step drill bit and DO NOT use a regular metal drill bit. I used a regular metal drill bit on one a couple years ago and it did not make a clean square shouldered hole and when vent was inserted it split the seam. When I put the last one in last summer 2023, I used the step bit and it worked great., no splitting. I do have a couple jugs that have the vent on the side in solid plastic away from the seam, so I think in the future I will install the vents, high up on the side of the fuel jug.
I can't tell on the specific cans that you're using, but many gas cans are still made in the same molds today as they were when they were vented, but only with the hole removed. Usually there is a flat spot where the vent would go that is thicker than the rest of the material and they won't break out when you insert a vent. It's super obvious on the 5 gallon Blitz brand cans where it is and it's lower than the handle area, which is pretty much the thinnest part of the entire can (due to the way blow molding works it would be hard to get a bunch of material up there). If you do another tank, I suggest you try installing the vent behind the handle. When the can is tipped up it should be in about the ideal location.
Also, that's not a "weld seam", it's a parting line where the two halves of the bow mold meet during manufacturing. The tank is manufactured as one part, although that line is a stress riser which is why a crack develops in that area.
If you can't find a better approach, I'd recommend simply trying a bigger bit and applying a little bit of sealer to the vent if you want. When I did my Blitz cans I think I went up 2 drill sizes from recommended and the vent still fit plenty snug (but I did use a little RTV just to play it safe).
Maxwelhse rtv isn't the best material for gas,the JB weld would probably hold up better over time
Emil Mikolon
j
As far as the vent is concerned I make a small hole which I then shove a golf tee in. The tapered shape of the golf tee completely seals the hole. 1 cent.
gold tees are also great for resetting the hinges on doors. glue them in the holes and drill new holes after the glue dries.
I can't afford gold tees. (I'm not Trump.) What about a wood one?
I just use a screw that fits the hole.
Since she is 5...she did a good job!!
Thanks
I just received a set of the yellow vent caps with the retainer lip today. I took a caliper and measured forward of the lip. I get about 31/64" (12.5mm). However rear of the lip I am getting about 34/64 (13.5mm). This would explain the splitting welds. It would appear that a hole of around 33/64 (13.4mm) would be better.
+Zzznorch good point
Just drill a 3/16 hole and push a 40d nail into it for the vent.
Does that poly venal tube hold up to gas? I’d love to add that to all my cans.
Finding the normal spout on Amazon was a god send.
I spilled more gas with that dumb EPA spout. I get the theory, but it a complete failure in practice.
I bought extra spouts for possible future gas can needs.
POLY vinyl tubing is not Gasoline safe. It will degrade over time. DO NOT USE polyvinyl tubing. Cans are made of polyethylene for this reason. Gas cans are pressurized containers.
Another “We’re the Government; let us help you!” solution that doesn’t work as intended. I recently bought a 2 gallon can with a potable generator and ended up with about a cup on the ground trying to fill the generator with the can. It’s a PITA trying to fill the can too. Thanks for the hacks!!
Just remove the o-ring from inside. Once this is done the internal locking slide comes out and the spring can be removed. The locking slide can be replaced without the spring to cover the slit in the yellow spout. Replace the o-ring to keep the slide from coming back out. I just purchased one and haven't tried gas in it yet, but that seems to be the easiest fix for the hard to pull back locking mechanism. PITA.
+Farm Use I'll try that next time
I've drilled a smaller hole and did not use a vent cap of any kind. It works great and no spills.If you do drill a small hole in the handle it is not likely to leak and vents the gas just fine when pouring.
Another mess created by the federal government because of a stupid regulation. How on Earth anybody could think the government can do practically anything right is beyond me.
United States Postal Service has NEVER made a profit in it's entire existence.....does that tell you anything?
The splits in the seam can be welded by using a soldering iron and melting the two sides of plastic back together. Heat it up and smear it in small circles. Works better than glue.
Working as intended. lol I'm finding problems with my new gas can too. I just remove the whole nozzel and pour now. And wish it the best of luck.
Why does the vent need to be on the parting line? Just put it on one side of the handle.
Any ideas on removing the bits of plastic that fall into the gas can? I would hate to get bits of plastic in my generator/car/truck.
Blow them out with an air gun. Any fine pieces will be stopped by your fuel filter
A good alternative way of sealing cracks is to use a cheap soldering iron to melt/weld the plastic back together. You can use a similar piece of plastic to add as "filler" material. I use zip ties as my filler materiel and they come in all colors. bend a couple pieces of wire like paperclip shapes and melt them into the plastic as well to use like stitches, which will prevent further weak spots from cracking later.
I wouldn't recommend doing this to a can that has gas fumes inside it. Common sense here, but If it's been used, make sure to rinse the can thoroughly with water and air dried before attempting.
To slide that hose on easier, use hand soap or dish soap - doesn't matter - and works way better than anything else I've ever used. You can slide that poly line right on without much strain. Also, stop drilling on your seams - you're ruining the bottle. Find a flat spot above where the fuel will reside. All you're doing is equalizing the air pressure with the outside air. Great solution!
The new jugs are horrible, thanks for the helpful video. A bit of grease on the vent plug and a lick with a hammer and the vent goes right in.
I wonder how a small c clamp would work to get that vent in.
I know this is an older video but do you know if putting the vent on a flat section would work better than the rounded handle?
Probably
Great video. Thanks for the information. I went out before the hurricane season started and bought a nice funnel and I take off the gas can cap and pour through the funnel. Problem solved!
Its a cool idea. Possible faults are there. My best or I guess my best idea is get it done! Oh yeah do not forget gss and heat is not cool. Good luck.
You didn't notice any fuel spilling from the hole in the spout where the "no spill" spring valve used to be? I think that's my main concern with these thing. When filling my chainsaw, I have to hold it with my hand, and I get fuel all over my hand, which I'm pretty sure is coming from that black spring loaded valve.
I'm glad I kept my old cans and bought spare nozzles and parts !
I cut most of the spout off with a hacksaw and threaded in a 1/2" male pipe thread X 5/8" male flare brass fitting. Then put 5/8" copper tube on after I flared the one end.
Vent idea: Put a fender and a rubber roofing screw washers onto a longer smooth roofing nail as a plug. Then drill a press-fit-sized hole for it - top opposite the spout, non weld area.
Good job. Maybe you could avoid seam cracking by drilling your vent hole off-center or reinforcing the seam area with a tie wrap. Keep up the nifty videos.
Alternative hacks...
I've used old tire stems to add a vent, but sometimes have trouble getting the right diameter with a step drill bit (maybe standard bit of appropriate size next time. I've also just used a nail for a vent plug.
I have used chair leg / table leg tips of an APPROPRIATE SIZE as a replacement spout cap.
I've had several of the Midwest gas can collars split and leak. I blame my wife; she helps when I take 5-6 cans to Kroger gas station.
At 60+, she's not exactly a body builder but the mechanical advantage or the threads tends to crack the collar if she is not careful.
My e-mail to customer service suggesting better design or replacing or subsidizing a replacement collar didn't even get an answer.
Superglue/baking soda didn't work out. I wonder if gasket maker might provide a fix that doesn't involve buying replacement spout at about half the price of an entire (failure-prone) gas can.
Last Midwest can I bought had a conical screen down in the gas can. The purpose seems to be to slow the filling speed so that the gas pump keeps shutting off. I can't be to keep debris out of my gas tanks, that would require putting the screen in the spout. If what they did were to actually prevent debris from the pump getting in the gas can, it's just going to flow into the tank when the gas can is emptied (unless the debris is so large it catches your attention before putting on the spout).
Thankfully I have both metal and plastic cans I bought in the sixties and seventies. The only "New and EPA Approved" can I own has been modified to work like an old container.
Thanks, government!
Saving us from problems we would have never known we had.
You are doing god's work. I got here because of frustration with these P's of S.
glad I could help
Thanks! I'll have to try this out. To make the vent hole, I use an awl and work out the hole, to avoid getting debris in the gas, that a drill bit might leave. Does the gasoline have any negative effects on the polyvinyl tubing? When I used to use Ethanol, it would eat up the poly tubing gas line in my weed eater gas tank, like crazy, whereas 100% gas would not.
That is a great fix but I don’t think the clear tube will last very long with constant exposer to gasoline. If you could find a thin metal tube or pipe, I think that would make a better sleeve. There is also a gasoline resistant glue you can get (from auto parts stores) that could be used to seal the metal pipe to the plastic spout so it wouldn’t leak while poring gas.
It's holding up.....stiff but still usable
put the nozzle in the pour position , run a self tapping screw into the lock and don'tworry about it anymore
and just drill or cut a vent, the caps never stay on anyway
truth matters I
I wish you would refilm this with a better camera person, couldn't see half of what you were doing.Great video otherwise
you might try a little vasoline on the air vent and a nylon zip tie on the extension hose, jb weld is great stuff I have actually repaired steel gas tanks with it good video
+bowlweevil I'll try that next time
Maybe a bit of the lube you used on the nozzle would help.
Does the clear tubing hold up to gas I know I had a different problem with a different plastic and the gas ate the plastic away thanks for your help
This one hardened over time. But still works
i'm from the government, and I'm here to help...
And yes-- the check is in the mail! Promise!
That's GREAT Skip, YOU are CORDIALLY INVITED to FUCK OFF
Did you ever have the spring loaded nozzle stick open? I have. One of my neighbors did too. It overflowed the fuel tank and caught on fire and she died as a result. What will the goverment have to say about their stupid ideas when it fails to operate as it should.
Elmer Fudd ooh that wabbit!!!
Great idea 👍🏻
Keep the part that slides on top. Instead of cutting inner spout remove o-ring dissemble remove spring reassemble done. Now it still seals while not in use and don't have to buy other parts Works ok since we're not allowed to have the good ones anymore. Government just wants us to spill more gas, means we have to buy more.
I'll never understand why they did that to gas cans especially the vent hole you'd think the vent hole would be a good thing
+Ronnie Pierce I agree
Take a soldering iron and weld the seam back. You can use a piece of oil bottle plastic to add to the weld to make it thicker. There are some good videos on here on how to do that. I fixed an old weed eater gas tank like that.
Well i wi try that. Wife a d I hate the "new cans" .
Use a heat gun to warm it (low setting), and you can slide the tube down easily.
I heat a large coffee cup of water of water to boiling to heat up vinyl garden hose and other plastic tubing.
I don't have a heat gun and I think it heats the tubing more evenly than a heat gun would.
an old microwave in the garage comes in handy. Warm water or the tubing. Plus I use it to warm old rolls of tape. It makes them usable again. Only takes 15 seconds. Oh and for my coffee when it gets cold.
one simple way to in stall both the valve and the hose is to use a non pumas hand cleaner.
Pumas are also called Mountain Lions. I believe you meant "pumice".
Or just set it out in the hot sun for a while with something black underneath to make it hotter.
I liked what I saw you doing but could not read the info on the plastic tubing and where did you get the plugs for the end? What are they called. Do you have any suggestions as to how to get the shavings out of tank. I try to be careful but doesn't work every time. Thanks.
Where'd you get those canvas pants old style cool
Carhartt or roundhouse double front
For a vent just drill a hole the right size for a screw/ bolt or even a nail to fit snug. Eazy and cheap and it works perfect.
I have no idea why the EPA ordered the nozzle change but whatever it was for it backfired and has forced me to spill way more fuel than I ever did. If you have a heat gun, heat the tube before sliding it on and forget the lubricant. I learned years ago putting my pool hoses on the filter and skimmer that 15 seconds of heat made allowed me to slide those hoses on like butter.
Don't drill the hole for the vent on a seam and you don't have to worry about the seam breaking. Just put it the side of the handle rather than on the seam. Or put it down lower on the can where there is no seam. Great ideas!!
Try making the hole a bit smaller than you need and heat up an old 1/2" drill bit on the shank end and melt it into the hole. This will keep the tank frm splitting... Or.. just drill somewhere else on the top of the can and not on the seam.
good point
Tractor Wrangler
,Ll
Thanks
Whatever made you drill holes in the weld? Any other place even on the side, near the top would have been better.
That's what I learned
Thanks for help in disassembling these abominations. As to the vent, of course it doesn't need to be at the very top or on the can seam. Since you've already bought a rubber stopper for the new nozzle just use a stopper in the vent hole you've drilled. One more problem solved.
My local Tractor supply store carries the ez pour spout.
why dont you use a pliars to snap that vent cap..or at least some soapy water ???
Other countries don't follow EPA rules, gas cans are sold world wide. There is a flat spot at the rear of the handle where there is no seam and the plastic is thicker. That's where the vent is on non-EPA gas cans.
The real question is can this polyvinyl tubing withstand the solvent nature of gasoline? I’d hate to put a gas/dissolved plastic concoction in any of my engines.
It has so far
Good Video. Nice showing possible mistakes. I'll likely use your tubing bit. However...
JB Weld is really good against gasoline. So I would have drilled a deliberate oversized hole, to avoid stressing the plastic. Then? JB Weld the vent cap into place, taking up any extra space with the weld compound. Easy in, no leak, no stress.
JB weld wont bond to polyethylene nor will any other common sealant.
Totally Right Wes. JB or Expoxy will NOT stick. The only fix I know of , is an actual Polyethylene Weld using the proper filler.
Suggest you use a hot air gun or a hair dryer to heat the tubeing and it will expand easily.
Good point
I converted mine for less then 20 cents. I ripped out the guts of the nozzle rapped it with electrical tape the drilled a hole in the top of the handle and put a small screw to fit the hole done. Less then three minutes to do.
+dad1442 I've seen people use a golf tee
To install vent: DON'T drill on the seam; use a 1/2" spade bit, and feed it lightly to get a perfect round hole (you could use a hole saw or forntster [sp?] bit if you have one); use a short piece of 1/2" galvanized pipe to press in the vent.
Making you that shirt tomorrow buddy. Should be at your place next week
I look forward to it
Rubber tire valve stem with the core removed for a vent works great. Won’t crack the plastic weld
Rubber stems will leak
My fix for the yellow spout is as follows: put a hose clamp around the spout, push down on the lock/lever thingy and tighten the clamp. It will hold the lock/lever thingy down making it possible to pour. This is a quickie fix but there is still the vent problem.
Those damn cans are tippy also. I have to tie them down and put something heavy next to the gas cans so they don't tip over in my truck bed. I love the old style with the bigger bases and easy to use spouts.
Thanks for making this video, the first time I used that low profile one I'm thinking, WTF, can the make something even more complicated and harder to use?
Use some heat.
Hair dryer?
It is not a weld. It is a parting line where two halves of the mold come a part when it is formed.
Why did the epa remove the vents?
+John Andrew Serrano Garcia they wanted a sealed container that wouldn't evaporate into the atmosphere. The new ones don't evaporate.....they spill all over
Funny cause we used to sniff and huff this stuff like no tomorrow when we where kids,all still alive :)
All that vapor is trapped in the can until you open it. Internal pressure pushes all that vapor out negating the benefit of the "missing vent". Just wait until they realize who stupid they made these cans. The next design will have an internal bladder bag to hold the fuel plus a fuel vapor canister to absorb the fuel vapors - like the EVAP canisters on cars. Then we can spill more gas.
Please don't use vulgar abbreviations like those, on You Tube.........! :)
The vent caps are available online I got a couple dozen for a buck they're very cheap if you buy them right be patient takes a less than half inch hole drilled they pop right in no big deal
Can you drill into a can that already had gas in it? I know the bit/can interaction won’t spark but is the spark from the drill motor a concern?
Where do you buy the Blitz caps?