I started bookbinding earlier this month and I've bound two books now, currently working on my 3rd. Your videos have been highly informative and I appreciate all the work and effort you've put into them. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Really glad you find them useful, because they are a pain in the neck to edit! Easier to have video than add VO, than have VO and then add video:) All the best, DAS
Ooo, I've been (somewhat infrequently) into bookbinding for a while and I never realized endpapers came in so many varieties! A very useful lesson indeed. I have a book in the works for an older relative who has done a lot of bookbinding, and since we live in sweden I bet a hooked endpage would be perfect for that project!
Endpaperism allows for some serious inventive minds, and part of the wonderful creative process that is bookbinding. Thank you @DAS Bookbinding and community for keeping this virtuous profession alive in the time of AI and Audio books.
I found your Chanel while looking for instructions on rebinding the boards to a very thick 1880 dictionary. I had no idea that making books was such a complex art. Love your Chanel, still looking for instructions for expensive and very thick books. Thank you.
I’m so glad I found your channel. I love making things and have gone from pottery to leather to silversmithing and in recent years watercolour painting which is what led me to you. I have made my own artist journals and wanted to improve the outcome. My New Years goal for 2022 is to make high quality artist journals for myself and for sale in local museums and gift stores. So cheers from Launceston Tasmania 👋
Thank you for your clearly presented, and cleverly edited presentations of learning about bookbinding. During lockdown in UK I decided to learn bookbinding. All study courses have been cancelled so I bought a couple of books on how to bind a book and looked for help on the internet. Daren you have stimulated me beyond all measure, and will continue to do so. You have become my 'go to' learning source. Well done and many thanks.
Thanks, it's great to get the feedback the videos are doing the job I hoped they would. You are very lucky in that once courses start back up you will have access to many of the best teachers in the world! Take care and happy binding!! Darryn
Holy cow, what a helpful and incredibly informative video. Yes, I've been doing a lot of binding, thanks mostly to all of your helpful videos! Thank you so much!
A very informative video yet again. Thank you so much. I had no idea that there were so many types of end paper fixings! I have just completed a remind of a book that was published in 1933 , a pictorial view of the First World War, not very successfully I might add because I had to use the paper I had for the missing end papers and flies and had to use 95 gsm grade A3 for it. But as the book was going to be thrown out, I thought I wold give it a go. I will be binge watching your video playlist avidly, for I've been asked to make journals for my sister in law , my mother in law and my wife! Wish me luck!
The green was brighter than I meant it to be and the pattern much more random. But that is what is great about paste papers; mistakes are often very nice! DAS
I found this very interesting. In particular I like the spring back end paper and the end of the video. I learn a lot of terminology in the video. Thanks!
I'll try and be careful to use the correct terms. I try and follow what was used in the English trade binding system at the end of the 19th and early 20th century. It's well documented, so I have no excuse for mixing up "paste up" and "glue up". Happy binding! DAS
Thank you thank you thank you! I learned so much from this and found this video just in time to try some of these methods out on my current bookbindings.
Wow. That is such a huge subject in itself, which I am sad to say I had never given much thought to. As always a huge thank you to you for continuing to make such interesting and educational videos. Bless you, from UK.
@@DASBookbinding Brilliant. Sounds like a great plan. My Wife had a heart attack last week, and had a stent fitted. She is home and well now but learned so much whilst in the hospital. Many Doctors here have been forced to keep silent about the truth, especially about equipment shortages, and the disproportionate PR on this flu strain. I only hope when we beat this, and we will, that we can reverse some of the arcane law changes that have been brought in, that really target the most vulnerable in society. Thanks again for your hard work, and time spent making these videos. They have a very calming effect and really take the mind off what is going on out there. You make learning fun as you are very knowledgeable and you obviously love your subject. Thank you, and take care of yourselves. Love to you and yours, from me and mine.
9:56 is like the end of an episode for a thriller: "which is especially important in Scandanavian bookbinding tradition"! "How, why ? What is this Scandinavian tradition? Great video. Thank you.
Hey. That's the 19th century library binding. Stopan has taken some of the classic bookbinding texts from Project Gutenberg and formatted them really nicely. I thought Cockerell was the perfect book for the library binding, and I thought it would be nice to drive a bit of business Stopan's way. Give it a go!! Happy binding! DAS ruclips.net/video/jaxaf6KnBJ0/видео.html
"Recto is the "right" or "front" side and verso is the "left" or "back" side when text is written or printed on a leaf of paper (folium) in a bound item such as a codex, book, broadsheet, or pamphlet."
Hi there thanks so much for your videos! They are a joy to watch. One question I have is whether you could share a list of some reading you've done that is interesting or helpful. I found the Thames and Hudson manual, but would love more to read. Another question I have is whether you would have any insight into how to properly size a attach to the book block a soft cover? Thank you so much for your effort and time into these videos.
Hi Taylor! Sounds like it's time for me to share a reading list. 2 requests in one day. About the only time I do soft (or limp) covers is the stiffened paper binding type structure. Then the cover is trimmer flush with the text. If you are using leather and extend it beyond the text it becomes a sort of yapp edge. This is common in bibles, but I don;t have much experience except minor repairs on these. Take care! DAS
I started learning to do book binding about a month ago, making small journals and notebooks. I've been using decorative papers from scrapbooking supplies, but I would like to find something similar to marbled paper. I do early 1800s reenacting and need something appropriate. I have been unable to find any commercial made "marbled" paper. Does such an item even exist? Do you have any idea where I should look? I've watched many of your videos several times and have found them extremely educational and easy to follow. Thank you.
I'll list the 2 main suppliers I use, who both have printed marbled papers, plus a great selection of hand marbled papers from the best in the world. The printed nonpareil would probably work well for you. www.talasonline.com/French-P-Marbled-Paper www.hewitonline.com/Nonpareil_Printed_Marble_Paper_p/pp-081-000.htm For the hand marbled paper I usually try and buy directly from the maker. These are full time paper marblers. I list most of them on my suppliers list. dasbookbinding.com/2020/03/27/bookbinding-suppliers/ Also in this list is a few other retailers who also have a wide range of paper (such as Hollander's), but I don't buy from them as often, but they are great suppliers. Happy binding! DAS
Thank you so much. With the lock down I can't get out to browse the shops and have just discovered your channel. Using the supplies I have at home, I have been experimenting with paste papers, but they are mostly flimsy. You have clearly explained what to do about that! Can you suggest an Australian source of paper suitable for paste papers to be used for decorative end papers? Also a supplier for the starch? Thanks
Hi. The starch is easy. Most IGAs have Silver Star laundry starch. It's highly refined wheat starch. Perfect. Paper is harder because I have this old stock which I think was from the old Shoalhaven paper mill. I was told just today about a store in Melbourne that has nice paper - expensive, but nice. I have not used these papers for paste paper, but I think they'll work well Hahnemuhle 150gsm, Japon Calligraphy 130gsm, Somerset Book White 115gsm. If you try these papers, let me know how they go. www.e-artstore.net/
Appreciate all the work you are doing to teach aspects of book binding. Thank you. My goal is to leather bind the one book that I have written. Question: Have you ever used poster board (thin smooth card board) for an endpaper system? I am thinking durability here. I am thinking of using plain white endpapers and then decorating them myself with water colors, inks and markers...after they are installed.
I think anything you can describe as card or board is too thick for endpapers. This particular endpaper is extremely durable. The cloth will last hundreds of years. But this style is mainly used for stationery binding, not "letterpress". The exception being the 19th century split-board, or library style. Designing a book structurally is real challenge. Good luck. DAS
Yes, he formatted some of the classic texts on bookbinding that are available on Project Gutenberg. He sells the pdf files on his store. All the best, DAS
Love your channel, and I have a question: I make original art mono-prints with acrylic inks and paints on my gel plate. Would these be suitable for endpapers, or do you think the acrylic medium might stick to itself over time, if pressed against each other in a book? I have created an art journal with every page made with the mono-prints and have found no sticking, thus far. It has only been about a year since I created it, though. I wonder about long-term, i.e. archival properties and all.
Good question. I use acrylics for paste papers which I use as endpapers. I usually do wax them (which I've worried about too). After years on the bookshelf I've seen no issues with offsetting or adhering to themselves. So I think it's all good. But it is a limited test. All the best, DAS
Folio (folded sheet). There are a variety of usages for "scrim," which could mean a test or practice match in some sport, or a piece of translucent material used with a curtain or paired with a curtain.
In this case scrim is the later, it is the same material used with curtains. It is maybe one of the most confusing words since there are so many other variations - scrim, mull, super and more I can't think of right now. I used to use mull and while living in the US I changed to scrim even though in the US super is the predominant name used. I have no idea why I did this.... DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thanks. I just ordered some "super cloth". I didn't think it was what Superman's cape was made out of, but I did think it was some marketing term. Didn't realize it was just another word for "scrim". You should really watch the "piping" scenes in the Netflix "Patriot" series, where the lead character, who is supposed to be a secret agen, is trying to make sense of the specialized language they use in the "piping trade" so he can fit in. It's hilarious. In fact the whole series is darkly hilarious.
I wish it was my marbled paper. Something I'd love to be able to do, but doubt I'll ever have the time. I do try and spend a day doing suminigashi (Japanese marbling) ever so often. I will do a video on this one day, but there are some good ones on RUclips already. All the best, DAS
I am fond of artisan binding. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience through the videos. They are extremely dynamic and clear. Can you recommend any bibliography on guards? From already thank you very much.
Thanks! Can you be more specific about the type of guarding you would like to do? Guarding in bookbinding can be used to describe a number of different processes. The repair and reinforcing of the fold of folios is called guarding. Or you can use a guard to hold a plate in place, which is a bit different processes. And then there are concertina guards and reverse guards (aka meeting guards). For repairing the fold of folios I'd recommend Kathy Abbott's book (but make sure it's the second edition). The Thames and Hudson Manual of Bookbinding ahas a brief section on guarding maps and plates into books. Concertina guards and meeting guards aren't very well documented. All the best, DAS
Excellent learning opportunity. What is the gauzy white sheet you use to protect what you're working on when you use a book press? It looks like waxed paper. I assume its purpose is to keep the glue from adhering to parts you don't want it to.
Hello, how heavy the endpaper paper should be? Is 185 grams too heavy? I read somewhere that it should be between 100-140 grams , is this correct? What would happen to a book if heavier paper is used, lets say 250 grams? Would that pull boards and warp them ? Thank you for your videos, learning a lot from them :]
In terms of pulling boards, I mention when the book is being opened and endpapers being pulled away from the textblock. This is different to when you glue the paste down to the board and as the wet paper dries it shrinks and "pulls" the board which can cause it warp in Hopefully the design has the pull balanced with an outward pull. This last type of pull is usually less pronounced with thinner paper. Thicker paper "stretches" or expands less than thin paper. You can use heavier paper for the colour paper, it just means the first free flyleaf will be stiff. I've bound books where all the paper was about 250gsm, and used even heavier paper for the endpapers. Unless you are working on something valuable the best thing to do is give it a go. You'll learn something one way or another. Good luck! DAS
I use a hooked endpaper on one of the books in the Steifbroschuren video. But I'll try and remember to use it again. There are many variations of hooked endpapers. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding yup just after my comment I saw that video, but I think you go really quick over it. A video on some the way to do hooked would be nice :)
@@greenerman3200 Another way of look at it is that if you have an inner leather joint then the inside of the board has to be filled in with something, which is the doublure. Check out Mark Andersson's GoBW video for a simple inner leather joint with basic doublure. Use the code GBW4FREE with the 7 day rental vimeo.com/ondemand/04gbw2 Good luck! DAS
It's important to get them in the correct order, make sure the zig comes before the zag, otherwise you will have to take the book apart and do it all again. 06:44 Darryn (whisper) don't tell anyone, but I don't like decorative marbled paste-down paper at all. Maybe it's because it looks like wallpaper and I detest that too. What about getting getting colored paper from Office Works? What GSM is suitable? Is paste-down paper a specific fibre structure because it has to resist opening and closing?
A lot of my favourite bookbinding authors from the early 20th century said they didn't like marbled paper either. It's a reaction to fashion. I hated wallpaper until I started studying William Morris:) DAS
Sorry for commenting on an old video, but I was curious if there was a work around for books too large to fold end papers? Is there a work around or do I just need to go out and buy massive sheets of paper in order to be able to fold them?
With this endpaper, since it has the cloth hinge already, there is no reason not to also hinge the white with paper. But you still should have the grain direction head to tail.
Another great video Darryn, thanks so much. I'll be experimenting with a few new techniques on my next project, and am now planning on doing a zig-zag made paper to see how it goes. Can I ask your thoughts on japanese paper hook guards for the first section/signature? I came across these diagrams (similar to Johnson's - www.philobiblon.com/endpaper.shtml) and they all have this japanese paper guard. Do you ever use it? I've not seen it used in your videos, and wondered if it's really an unnecessary step.
Hi Mark, Yes I shamelessly rip off Peter's stuff all the time. Lucky I checked the link. I thought you were talking about a method Peter regularly uses where he has a guard around the outside section and the endpaper. I think what you are thinking is just a guard around the endpaper, like the hidden cloth jointed EP. I think I would always guard with starched thin cotton. You just need to bind lots of books and develop a style. Lately I've been using something like fig 3, but not with the sewing visible between the pastedown and FFEP. Just thinking about it now, in the past often decorative paper has been very thin. Thus why I think reinforcing guards may have been more important in the past. So think that would be a good rule of thumb, if the endpaper you want to use is thin or weak then a Japanese paper guard is a good idea. Good luck, DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thanks for the reply. It looks to me like the Japanese paper hook guard is around the first section of the text block only, and then a separate linen guard around EP and fly leaves in that Fig. 3. Would the linen be something like Fraynot/Calico? I've only ever done the basic one-folio-tipped-on end paper, so I'll have a play around and see what works best. Thanks for your help, and keep up the amazing work - I've adopted quite a few techniques from your videos already!
@@bella-bee thanks for the alert. The nearest thing I could find with a Google search was this: www.conservation-wiki.com/wiki/BPG_Endpapers and if Ctrl+F search for 'hooked' you'll find the same info
hi am working on a reformation of an old book of mine, and I was thinking of making my own decorative endpaper, but am really unsure about what type of printing method to use as well as what type of paper for it to last longer and look better, do you have any suggestion or have printed your own before?
Paper is paper. If you use a good quality paper it will last longer. I don't usually print decorative paper, but use techniques like paste paper. I might use something like Permalife or 70lb Mohawk Superfine. Talas is a good shop to get paper like this. www.talasonline.com/paper-and-board/book-and-text
It depends how acid. I have used old stock of paper that isn't very acidic. You could add a few extra blank pages to the endpapers to protect the text. Good luck. DAS
Hi, I’m making a sketchbook with a paper weight of 400gsm. So does that mean I have to use an end paper which is of the same weight? It’s a watercolor paper that I’m using and I don’t know any other alternatives that would be 400gsm. (Unlike the pretty patterned ones you have shown. I would really like to see a lesson on constructing a sketchbook using extra thick papers. I watched many of your videos and learned a lot. However my book measures 6” by 9” and I can only seem to fit 2 papers in a signature. Thank you.
Hi, well 400gsm is heavier than I'd use in a book. I consider that weight card rather than paper. I'm surprised you can use more than 1 sheet per section. I would use the same paper for the endpaper. If you want a decorative paper you can use something lighter and do a made endpaper where the decorative paper is laminated to the heavier block paper. Hope that makes sense. Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you for your prompt reply. My sketch book did not turn out well at all so I had to recycle the entire book including the end papers! The pages would not close flat even though I put a clamp over them and glue seeped through the signatures through the big gaps and ended up tearing the pages when I tried to make it lay flat. I used that paper weight as my son's girlfriend does acrylic painting and I was looking for a paper that would not warp. I would be very interested to know what sort of sewing method you would use for something so thick. This is my first proper book making project and I have watched a ton of your videos and learned so much!
@@graceng5525 It's almost like a children board book. I would use single sheet sections and I'd use one of the sewn board binding techniques. Maybe use a linking stitch (aka French link stitch) at 2 stations for an A5 sized book (4 for and A4 sized book).
Das, I see many old books on digital archives which have only the paste down decorative paper. Do you think its because the fly leaf was removed, or is it possible that only the decorative paste down was used? I ask that because sometimes I think it would be nice to see the marbled and the title page at once.
I thought I understood, but you lost me at the end. I haven't paid enough attention to these scanned books. So, you see the paste down but not the recto of the first free endpaper (aka fly leaf). If I saw this I would assume they did not scan the recto of the fly leaf. It would be very rare for the paste down and recto of the fly leaf to not be a continuous piece of decorative paper. I doubt (hope) they wouldn't have removed the FFEP. It's your last sentence that got me confused. When the book is open to the half title I wouldn't expect to see the decorative paper to the left. In a simple endpaper it might be the back of the decorative paper, but this would be blank. Hope this makes sense. DAS
@@p.h.freitas6727 In early books - let's say pre 16th century - I think this would not be surprising. But at the same time the pastedown wouldn't be very decorative. One exception is when a doublure is used, which will not always match the FFEP. Maybe you have a link to such a book?
I don't know what he means by "hooked". My thought is that it probably involves something like a Grecian key. www.myoverlays.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/GK5-web.jpg
The terminology here is quite daunting and probably derives from traditions started in the Middle Ages with craft guilds. Part of the purpose of the specialized language is to act as a barrier to entry, which was always part of the purpose of guilds and one that was strengthened by and substituted with "royal charters" which excluded entry in a way that worked to the advantage of the nobles who granted the charters as opposed to the workmen and, to my way of thinking, was probably preceded by "guildmasters". This notion of specialized language taken to humorous extremes is depicted in Steven Conrad's excellent series for Amazon Prime: *Patriot*, which, if you haven't seen you're in for a treat. The scenes involving the specialized language of the "piping trade" is absolutely hilarious. ruclips.net/video/S-Y_3Q5YnTc/видео.html
This notion of specialized language is also a feature of academic specializations. While it may help people within a specialization communicate with one another it has the disadvantage of preventing cross-specialization insight. For instance breakthroughs which might be easily translated across specialized boundaries are prevented from doing so, so one specialization may be completely ignorant of the fact that some of its persistent problems have already been solved in related disciplines. They never get the memo.
The main advantage of the terminology is efficiency. Compared to other trades I think bookbinding has a fairly simple language. A lot has been lost since the hand work side of the trade side has almost gone. While the influence of the guilds is still present, bookbinding was an early and strong adopter of the modern union movement. In a trade environment a single person would almost never produce a single book completely by themselves. Because of the position of bookbinding being between printers, publishers and book sellers, they don't develop into their own world. They are always dependant on someone giving them something to bind and someone to take the finished product. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding A couple of things: My doctoral mentor was Seymour Martin Lipset, whose father was a printer, and who was the lead author of the book written with James Coleman (The Civil Right study on School Integration) in a book called "Union Democracy: The internal Politics of the International Typographical Union*. As the chair of my committee he wanted me to write an update to that study, but after a few weeks or research it was too depressing. The ITU was no longer a printers union, because printing had been ended by desktop publishing. Instead it only existed in Canada and the workers mostly made hockey pucks. ;( So I wrote my dissertation on elections. It's still a great book that analyzes what happens to a democracy as it transitions to oligarchy, and why the printer's union was an exception to Michel's "Iron Law of Oligarchy" As for the craft guilds, those were destroyed in the late Middle Ages by "royal charters" so that you had to have a charter to be a book maker. Remember, this was prior to printing which came in around 1450, so with a few exceptions the craft guilds were finished by then and replaced by a new corporatism under the control of charter granting corporate entities. Also read McLuhan's *Gutenberg Galaxy* to find out what the real results of mechanical printing were and why it led to the Thirty Years War. Finally, here's an excerpt from the Patriot series that you'll find pretty funny: ruclips.net/video/ccnfHKZebRk/видео.html
I don't understand why someone would be prone to infer that a conversation had to do with ethnicity because of use of the word "white." It's a word with an extremely well-defined meaning, and in this case - talking about paper - clearly has nothing to do with "people" at all. I think we'd all be better off just paying careful attention to the words being said, and react adversely to them only when something "adverse" is being *talked about*.
Sorry. Not the best remark on my part. I'm human, and far from perfect, so prone to saying the occasional dumb thing, especially when ad-libbing. I script the videos now and less prone to saying dumb things. They still get through occasionally...
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I started bookbinding earlier this month and I've bound two books now, currently working on my 3rd. Your videos have been highly informative and I appreciate all the work and effort you've put into them. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Are you posting photos anywhere like Reddit? Have fun! DAS
I do so enjoy these lessons that are focused on one topic.
Really glad you find them useful, because they are a pain in the neck to edit! Easier to have video than add VO, than have VO and then add video:) All the best, DAS
I comment a lot but I use your videos so much for so many different references. I'm making a book for a friend and I need some heavy duty endpapers
Ooo, I've been (somewhat infrequently) into bookbinding for a while and I never realized endpapers came in so many varieties! A very useful lesson indeed. I have a book in the works for an older relative who has done a lot of bookbinding, and since we live in sweden I bet a hooked endpage would be perfect for that project!
Fascinating; and it's just a discussion on end papers. Love your style of teaching.
Well done Darryn - a scholarly, authoritative & accessible introduction to an area that can be a minefield Keep 'em coming.
Thanks John. Take care. Darryn
"Tipped in" or "tipped on" basically means "added" on to or into the regular text block in some way (usually by gluing).
Endpaperism allows for some serious inventive minds, and part of the wonderful creative process that is bookbinding. Thank you @DAS Bookbinding and community for keeping this virtuous profession alive in the time of AI and Audio books.
I found your Chanel while looking for instructions on rebinding the boards to a very thick 1880 dictionary. I had no idea that making books was such a complex art. Love your Chanel, still looking for instructions for expensive and very thick books.
Thank you.
I’m so glad I found your channel. I love making things and have gone from pottery to leather to silversmithing and in recent years watercolour painting which is what led me to you. I have made my own artist journals and wanted to improve the outcome. My New Years goal for 2022 is to make high quality artist journals for myself and for sale in local museums and gift stores. So cheers from Launceston Tasmania 👋
Thank you for your clearly presented, and cleverly edited presentations of learning about bookbinding.
During lockdown in UK I decided to learn bookbinding. All study courses have been cancelled so I bought a couple of books on how to bind a book and looked for help on the internet. Daren you have stimulated me beyond all measure, and will continue to do so. You have become my 'go to' learning source. Well done and many thanks.
Thanks, it's great to get the feedback the videos are doing the job I hoped they would. You are very lucky in that once courses start back up you will have access to many of the best teachers in the world! Take care and happy binding!! Darryn
This is exactly the kind of information I was looking for. Thank you for making this video.
Yooo, this is so detailed, i love this. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! DAS
I've learned and relearned so much from you. Thank you again.
Glad to hear it! Happy binding! DAS
Awesome video - technique AND history WITH demos. Thank you!!!
Holy cow, what a helpful and incredibly informative video. Yes, I've been doing a lot of binding, thanks mostly to all of your helpful videos! Thank you so much!
You're welcome! All the best, DAS
A very informative video yet again. Thank you so much. I had no idea that there were so many types of end paper fixings! I have just completed a remind of a book that was published in 1933 , a pictorial view of the First World War, not very successfully I might add because I had to use the paper I had for the missing end papers and flies and had to use 95 gsm grade A3 for it. But as the book was going to be thrown out, I thought I wold give it a go. I will be binge watching your video playlist avidly, for I've been asked to make journals for my sister in law , my mother in law and my wife! Wish me luck!
Good luck! DAS
The green paste paper at 2:00 is 👌
The green was brighter than I meant it to be and the pattern much more random. But that is what is great about paste papers; mistakes are often very nice! DAS
Very useful info for me, an unlearned beginner
I found this very interesting. In particular I like the spring back end paper and the end of the video. I learn a lot of terminology in the video. Thanks!
I'll try and be careful to use the correct terms. I try and follow what was used in the English trade binding system at the end of the 19th and early 20th century. It's well documented, so I have no excuse for mixing up "paste up" and "glue up". Happy binding! DAS
Thank you thank you thank you! I learned so much from this and found this video just in time to try some of these methods out on my current bookbindings.
Wow. That is such a huge subject in itself, which I am sad to say I had never given much thought to. As always a huge thank you to you for continuing to make such interesting and educational videos. Bless you, from UK.
I hope to do one of these for most of the major topics in bookbinding. I'm dreading doing sewing - it's so complex! Stay safe in the UK! Yours, DAS
@@DASBookbinding Brilliant. Sounds like a great plan. My Wife had a heart attack last week, and had a stent fitted. She is home and well now but learned so much whilst in the hospital. Many Doctors here have been forced to keep silent about the truth, especially about equipment shortages, and the disproportionate PR on this flu strain. I only hope when we beat this, and we will, that we can reverse some of the arcane law changes that have been brought in, that really target the most vulnerable in society. Thanks again for your hard work, and time spent making these videos. They have a very calming effect and really take the mind off what is going on out there. You make learning fun as you are very knowledgeable and you obviously love your subject. Thank you, and take care of yourselves. Love to you and yours, from me and mine.
@@KennethNicholson1972 Take care. We'll get through eventually. DAS
Thank you so much for this really fascinating and instructive video.
Hello Darryn, thank you so much for these videos, they are really helpful
Hi. Making the videos forces me to make sure I know what I think I know. And then later I realise I didn't know that much anyway! Ciao, DAS
So interesting! Thanks for share your passion for binding 😃
a great introduction to the subject.
9:56 is like the end of an episode for a thriller: "which is especially important in Scandanavian bookbinding tradition"! "How, why ? What is this Scandinavian tradition?
Great video. Thank you.
The explanation is detailed! Thank you!
Sir, I don't know why I haven't found your channel yet? but glad i found it now, thanks for the information Sorry for my poor english
Happy binding! Darryn
I’ve been searching for a video on the stationary end papers!
Illuminating video, well done.
Thanks! All the best, DAS
An excellent overview
Io Stopan! i new i had seen that stamp somewhere! niceee
Did I see a book by Stopan? The springback in the beginning? Also fantastic video as usual!
Hey. That's the 19th century library binding. Stopan has taken some of the classic bookbinding texts from Project Gutenberg and formatted them really nicely. I thought Cockerell was the perfect book for the library binding, and I thought it would be nice to drive a bit of business Stopan's way. Give it a go!! Happy binding! DAS
ruclips.net/video/jaxaf6KnBJ0/видео.html
"Recto is the "right" or "front" side and verso is the "left" or "back" side when text is written or printed on a leaf of paper (folium) in a bound item such as a codex, book, broadsheet, or pamphlet."
Hi there thanks so much for your videos! They are a joy to watch. One question I have is whether you could share a list of some reading you've done that is interesting or helpful. I found the Thames and Hudson manual, but would love more to read. Another question I have is whether you would have any insight into how to properly size a attach to the book block a soft cover? Thank you so much for your effort and time into these videos.
Hi Taylor! Sounds like it's time for me to share a reading list. 2 requests in one day. About the only time I do soft (or limp) covers is the stiffened paper binding type structure. Then the cover is trimmer flush with the text. If you are using leather and extend it beyond the text it becomes a sort of yapp edge. This is common in bibles, but I don;t have much experience except minor repairs on these. Take care! DAS
I started learning to do book binding about a month ago, making small journals and notebooks. I've been using decorative papers from scrapbooking supplies, but I would like to find something similar to marbled paper. I do early 1800s reenacting and need something appropriate. I have been unable to find any commercial made "marbled" paper. Does such an item even exist? Do you have any idea where I should look? I've watched many of your videos several times and have found them extremely educational and easy to follow. Thank you.
I'll list the 2 main suppliers I use, who both have printed marbled papers, plus a great selection of hand marbled papers from the best in the world. The printed nonpareil would probably work well for you.
www.talasonline.com/French-P-Marbled-Paper
www.hewitonline.com/Nonpareil_Printed_Marble_Paper_p/pp-081-000.htm
For the hand marbled paper I usually try and buy directly from the maker. These are full time paper marblers. I list most of them on my suppliers list.
dasbookbinding.com/2020/03/27/bookbinding-suppliers/
Also in this list is a few other retailers who also have a wide range of paper (such as Hollander's), but I don't buy from them as often, but they are great suppliers.
Happy binding!
DAS
Thank you so much. With the lock down I can't get out to browse the shops and have just discovered your channel. Using the supplies I have at home, I have been experimenting with paste papers, but they are mostly flimsy. You have clearly explained what to do about that! Can you suggest an Australian source of paper suitable for paste papers to be used for decorative end papers? Also a supplier for the starch? Thanks
Hi. The starch is easy. Most IGAs have Silver Star laundry starch. It's highly refined wheat starch. Perfect. Paper is harder because I have this old stock which I think was from the old Shoalhaven paper mill. I was told just today about a store in Melbourne that has nice paper - expensive, but nice. I have not used these papers for paste paper, but I think they'll work well Hahnemuhle 150gsm, Japon Calligraphy 130gsm, Somerset Book White 115gsm. If you try these papers, let me know how they go. www.e-artstore.net/
Appreciate all the work you are doing to teach aspects of book binding. Thank you.
My goal is to leather bind the one book that I have written.
Question: Have you ever used poster board (thin smooth card board) for an endpaper system? I am thinking durability here. I am thinking of using plain white endpapers and then decorating them myself with water colors, inks and markers...after they are installed.
I think anything you can describe as card or board is too thick for endpapers. This particular endpaper is extremely durable. The cloth will last hundreds of years. But this style is mainly used for stationery binding, not "letterpress". The exception being the 19th century split-board, or library style. Designing a book structurally is real challenge. Good luck. DAS
I see a Stopan book. Sweet!
Yes, he formatted some of the classic texts on bookbinding that are available on Project Gutenberg. He sells the pdf files on his store. All the best, DAS
Have just found you and love your videos. Clear, precise instructions and excellent demonstrations. Thank you... new subscriber.
Love your channel, and I have a question:
I make original art mono-prints with acrylic inks and paints on my gel plate.
Would these be suitable for endpapers, or do you think the acrylic medium might stick to itself over time, if pressed against each other in a book?
I have created an art journal with every page made with the mono-prints and have found no sticking, thus far.
It has only been about a year since I created it, though.
I wonder about long-term, i.e. archival properties and all.
Good question. I use acrylics for paste papers which I use as endpapers. I usually do wax them (which I've worried about too). After years on the bookshelf I've seen no issues with offsetting or adhering to themselves. So I think it's all good. But it is a limited test. All the best, DAS
Folio (folded sheet). There are a variety of usages for "scrim," which could mean a test or practice match in some sport, or a piece of translucent material used with a curtain or paired with a curtain.
In this case scrim is the later, it is the same material used with curtains. It is maybe one of the most confusing words since there are so many other variations - scrim, mull, super and more I can't think of right now. I used to use mull and while living in the US I changed to scrim even though in the US super is the predominant name used. I have no idea why I did this.... DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thanks. I just ordered some "super cloth". I didn't think it was what Superman's cape was made out of, but I did think it was some marketing term. Didn't realize it was just another word for "scrim". You should really watch the "piping" scenes in the Netflix "Patriot" series, where the lead character, who is supposed to be a secret agen, is trying to make sense of the specialized language they use in the "piping trade" so he can fit in. It's hilarious. In fact the whole series is darkly hilarious.
Oh, not Netflix. It's on Amazon Prime.
Thank you for this video.
Excellent video thank you.
Thanks! It can be an addictive subject. It's like climbing hills, there is always another one to try! Ciao, DAS
Can you do a video explained your marbling paper technique?
I wish it was my marbled paper. Something I'd love to be able to do, but doubt I'll ever have the time. I do try and spend a day doing suminigashi (Japanese marbling) ever so often. I will do a video on this one day, but there are some good ones on RUclips already. All the best, DAS
Very informative
I am fond of artisan binding. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience through the videos.
They are extremely dynamic and clear. Can you recommend any bibliography on guards?
From already thank you very much.
Thanks! Can you be more specific about the type of guarding you would like to do? Guarding in bookbinding can be used to describe a number of different processes. The repair and reinforcing of the fold of folios is called guarding. Or you can use a guard to hold a plate in place, which is a bit different processes. And then there are concertina guards and reverse guards (aka meeting guards). For repairing the fold of folios I'd recommend Kathy Abbott's book (but make sure it's the second edition). The Thames and Hudson Manual of Bookbinding ahas a brief section on guarding maps and plates into books. Concertina guards and meeting guards aren't very well documented. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you very much very kind
Ohhh, recién lo veo,🤣😂🤣 Muchas gracias!! Lo empecé a seguir en Facebook (nos fuimos libros) La red me supera!!
Excellent learning opportunity. What is the gauzy white sheet you use to protect what you're working on when you use a book press? It looks like waxed paper. I assume its purpose is to keep the glue from adhering to parts you don't want it to.
Non woven polyester. In this case it is Reemay. The free Tyvek envelopes at the US post office are perfect, assuming they still have those. DAS
Thank you
thanks for the information :)
Very informative, maybe too much for me, but enjoyed it!! I also noticed, you own a book/notebook made by a bulgarian artisan - Stepan
He sells formatted PDFs of some classic texts, and I used that to bind that book.
Hello, how heavy the endpaper paper should be? Is 185 grams too heavy? I read somewhere that it should be between 100-140 grams , is this correct? What would happen to a book if heavier paper is used, lets say 250 grams? Would that pull boards and warp them ? Thank you for your videos, learning a lot from them :]
In terms of pulling boards, I mention when the book is being opened and endpapers being pulled away from the textblock. This is different to when you glue the paste down to the board and as the wet paper dries it shrinks and "pulls" the board which can cause it warp in Hopefully the design has the pull balanced with an outward pull. This last type of pull is usually less pronounced with thinner paper. Thicker paper "stretches" or expands less than thin paper. You can use heavier paper for the colour paper, it just means the first free flyleaf will be stiff. I've bound books where all the paper was about 250gsm, and used even heavier paper for the endpapers. Unless you are working on something valuable the best thing to do is give it a go. You'll learn something one way or another. Good luck! DAS
from the glimpses in the video my favorite one is the hooked one but you did not make a video on that yet .. will you do it some day ?
I use a hooked endpaper on one of the books in the Steifbroschuren video. But I'll try and remember to use it again. There are many variations of hooked endpapers. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding yup just after my comment I saw that video, but I think you go really quick over it. A video on some the way to do hooked would be nice :)
Please do a leather jointed endpapers, the is so little information available in the tutorial form
I'll get there. But I do see them as a long term weakness. DAS
@@DASBookbinding interesting, are leather jointed endpapers necessary for doing doublures?
@@greenerman3200 Another way of look at it is that if you have an inner leather joint then the inside of the board has to be filled in with something, which is the doublure. Check out Mark Andersson's GoBW video for a simple inner leather joint with basic doublure. Use the code GBW4FREE with the 7 day rental
vimeo.com/ondemand/04gbw2
Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you, that was so instructional. Great reference material, I'm looking forward to see you try a binding like this one.
@@DASBookbinding Seconded! I'd love to see a tutorial for leather-jointed endpapers. I can't find anything online.
It's important to get them in the correct order, make sure the zig comes before the zag, otherwise you will have to take the book apart and do it all again. 06:44
Darryn (whisper) don't tell anyone, but I don't like decorative marbled paste-down paper at all. Maybe it's because it looks like wallpaper and I detest that too.
What about getting getting colored paper from Office Works? What GSM is suitable? Is paste-down paper a specific fibre structure because it has to resist opening and closing?
A lot of my favourite bookbinding authors from the early 20th century said they didn't like marbled paper either. It's a reaction to fashion. I hated wallpaper until I started studying William Morris:) DAS
Sorry for commenting on an old video, but I was curious if there was a work around for books too large to fold end papers? Is there a work around or do I just need to go out and buy massive sheets of paper in order to be able to fold them?
With this endpaper, since it has the cloth hinge already, there is no reason not to also hinge the white with paper. But you still should have the grain direction head to tail.
Another great video Darryn, thanks so much. I'll be experimenting with a few new techniques on my next project, and am now planning on doing a zig-zag made paper to see how it goes. Can I ask your thoughts on japanese paper hook guards for the first section/signature? I came across these diagrams (similar to Johnson's - www.philobiblon.com/endpaper.shtml) and they all have this japanese paper guard. Do you ever use it? I've not seen it used in your videos, and wondered if it's really an unnecessary step.
Hi Mark, Yes I shamelessly rip off Peter's stuff all the time. Lucky I checked the link. I thought you were talking about a method Peter regularly uses where he has a guard around the outside section and the endpaper. I think what you are thinking is just a guard around the endpaper, like the hidden cloth jointed EP. I think I would always guard with starched thin cotton. You just need to bind lots of books and develop a style. Lately I've been using something like fig 3, but not with the sewing visible between the pastedown and FFEP. Just thinking about it now, in the past often decorative paper has been very thin. Thus why I think reinforcing guards may have been more important in the past. So think that would be a good rule of thumb, if the endpaper you want to use is thin or weak then a Japanese paper guard is a good idea. Good luck, DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thanks for the reply. It looks to me like the Japanese paper hook guard is around the first section of the text block only, and then a separate linen guard around EP and fly leaves in that Fig. 3. Would the linen be something like Fraynot/Calico? I've only ever done the basic one-folio-tipped-on end paper, so I'll have a play around and see what works best. Thanks for your help, and keep up the amazing work - I've adopted quite a few techniques from your videos already!
The link is now defunct
@@bella-bee thanks for the alert. The nearest thing I could find with a Google search was this: www.conservation-wiki.com/wiki/BPG_Endpapers and if Ctrl+F search for 'hooked' you'll find the same info
hi am working on a reformation of an old book of mine, and I was thinking of making my own decorative endpaper, but am really unsure about what type of printing method to use as well as what type of paper for it to last longer and look better, do you have any suggestion or have printed your own before?
Paper is paper. If you use a good quality paper it will last longer. I don't usually print decorative paper, but use techniques like paste paper. I might use something like Permalife or 70lb Mohawk Superfine. Talas is a good shop to get paper like this.
www.talasonline.com/paper-and-board/book-and-text
@@DASBookbinding thank you so much☺️
I found some really nice endpapers however they are acidic. Do you think that having just the endpapers acidic will have a great affect on the book?
It depends how acid. I have used old stock of paper that isn't very acidic. You could add a few extra blank pages to the endpapers to protect the text. Good luck. DAS
Hi, I’m making a sketchbook with a paper weight of 400gsm. So does that mean I have to use an end paper which is of the same weight? It’s a watercolor paper that I’m using and I don’t know any other alternatives that would be 400gsm. (Unlike the pretty patterned ones you have shown. I would really like to see a lesson on constructing a sketchbook using extra thick papers. I watched many of your videos and learned a lot. However my book measures 6” by 9” and I can only seem to fit 2 papers in a signature. Thank you.
Hi, well 400gsm is heavier than I'd use in a book. I consider that weight card rather than paper. I'm surprised you can use more than 1 sheet per section. I would use the same paper for the endpaper. If you want a decorative paper you can use something lighter and do a made endpaper where the decorative paper is laminated to the heavier block paper. Hope that makes sense. Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you for your prompt reply. My sketch book did not turn out well at all so I had to recycle the entire book including the end papers! The pages would not close flat even though I put a clamp over them and glue seeped through the signatures through the big gaps and ended up tearing the pages when I tried to make it lay flat. I used that paper weight as my son's girlfriend does acrylic painting and I was looking for a paper that would not warp. I would be very interested to know what sort of sewing method you would use for something so thick. This is my first proper book making project and I have watched a ton of your videos and learned so much!
@@graceng5525 It's almost like a children board book. I would use single sheet sections and I'd use one of the sewn board binding techniques. Maybe use a linking stitch (aka French link stitch) at 2 stations for an A5 sized book (4 for and A4 sized book).
@@DASBookbinding Thank you so very much! You're awesome!
Das, I see many old books on digital archives which have only the paste down decorative paper. Do you think its because the fly leaf was removed, or is it possible that only the decorative paste down was used? I ask that because sometimes I think it would be nice to see the marbled and the title page at once.
I thought I understood, but you lost me at the end. I haven't paid enough attention to these scanned books. So, you see the paste down but not the recto of the first free endpaper (aka fly leaf). If I saw this I would assume they did not scan the recto of the fly leaf. It would be very rare for the paste down and recto of the fly leaf to not be a continuous piece of decorative paper. I doubt (hope) they wouldn't have removed the FFEP. It's your last sentence that got me confused. When the book is open to the half title I wouldn't expect to see the decorative paper to the left. In a simple endpaper it might be the back of the decorative paper, but this would be blank. Hope this makes sense. DAS
@@DASBookbinding that would be only the paste down with no fly leaf.. as if the binder was only trying to cover the exposed board.
@@DASBookbinding wish I could post an image.
@@p.h.freitas6727 In early books - let's say pre 16th century - I think this would not be surprising. But at the same time the pastedown wouldn't be very decorative. One exception is when a doublure is used, which will not always match the FFEP. Maybe you have a link to such a book?
I don't know what he means by "hooked". My thought is that it probably involves something like a Grecian key. www.myoverlays.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/GK5-web.jpg
as a kid it always bothered me that the first two and last two pages were glued to each other, I suppose now I know why that is
I've got a solution for this coming up in the next few weeks.
The terminology here is quite daunting and probably derives from traditions started in the Middle Ages with craft guilds. Part of the purpose of the specialized language is to act as a barrier to entry, which was always part of the purpose of guilds and one that was strengthened by and substituted with "royal charters" which excluded entry in a way that worked to the advantage of the nobles who granted the charters as opposed to the workmen and, to my way of thinking, was probably preceded by "guildmasters". This notion of specialized language taken to humorous extremes is depicted in Steven Conrad's excellent series for Amazon Prime: *Patriot*, which, if you haven't seen you're in for a treat. The scenes involving the specialized language of the "piping trade" is absolutely hilarious.
ruclips.net/video/S-Y_3Q5YnTc/видео.html
This notion of specialized language is also a feature of academic specializations. While it may help people within a specialization communicate with one another it has the disadvantage of preventing cross-specialization insight. For instance breakthroughs which might be easily translated across specialized boundaries are prevented from doing so, so one specialization may be completely ignorant of the fact that some of its persistent problems have already been solved in related disciplines. They never get the memo.
The main advantage of the terminology is efficiency. Compared to other trades I think bookbinding has a fairly simple language. A lot has been lost since the hand work side of the trade side has almost gone. While the influence of the guilds is still present, bookbinding was an early and strong adopter of the modern union movement. In a trade environment a single person would almost never produce a single book completely by themselves. Because of the position of bookbinding being between printers, publishers and book sellers, they don't develop into their own world. They are always dependant on someone giving them something to bind and someone to take the finished product. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding A couple of things: My doctoral mentor was Seymour Martin Lipset, whose father was a printer, and who was the lead author of the book written with James Coleman (The Civil Right study on School Integration) in a book called "Union Democracy: The internal Politics of the International Typographical Union*. As the chair of my committee he wanted me to write an update to that study, but after a few weeks or research it was too depressing. The ITU was no longer a printers union, because printing had been ended by desktop publishing. Instead it only existed in Canada and the workers mostly made hockey pucks. ;( So I wrote my dissertation on elections. It's still a great book that analyzes what happens to a democracy as it transitions to oligarchy, and why the printer's union was an exception to Michel's "Iron Law of Oligarchy"
As for the craft guilds, those were destroyed in the late Middle Ages by "royal charters" so that you had to have a charter to be a book maker. Remember, this was prior to printing which came in around 1450, so with a few exceptions the craft guilds were finished by then and replaced by a new corporatism under the control of charter granting corporate entities.
Also read McLuhan's *Gutenberg Galaxy* to find out what the real results of mechanical printing were and why it led to the Thirty Years War.
Finally, here's an excerpt from the Patriot series that you'll find pretty funny:
ruclips.net/video/ccnfHKZebRk/видео.html
I am very confused!!!
I'm always confused too. Are you confused about endpapers? I usually confused about other things. DAS
text
I don't understand why someone would be prone to infer that a conversation had to do with ethnicity because of use of the word "white." It's a word with an extremely well-defined meaning, and in this case - talking about paper - clearly has nothing to do with "people" at all. I think we'd all be better off just paying careful attention to the words being said, and react adversely to them only when something "adverse" is being *talked about*.
Sorry. Not the best remark on my part. I'm human, and far from perfect, so prone to saying the occasional dumb thing, especially when ad-libbing. I script the videos now and less prone to saying dumb things. They still get through occasionally...