I cut them at 33 degree I believe and I use the jig. I put the leg on the frame without the hole drilled in it. Attach the jig and it drills the frame and leg hole at the same time. I also make this jig as well if you are interested. www.etsy.com/Simplewoodshopco/listing/900536920/cornhole-leg-install-jig-with-template?Copy&ListingManager&Share&.lmsm&share_time=1650575819893
I also use a jig to drill the holes into the frame and legs. Just mainly wanted to know what angle you cut your dog ears at so the legs rotate properly when you set the boards up.
How do you figure out your leg angle or do you make a frame with legs by raising the board up to the 12" height cut the leg angle and then make the jig based off that?
Hey, I made the fits set by raising up the boards and marking a level line. Then made a jig from that. That is probably the easiest to do. The angle changes depending on where you put your bolt hole.
@@SimpleWoodShop I want to use 22.5 on my miter because it's a hard stop point. So would I cut the angle first, raise the board up, clamp the leg to the board when it's flush to the ground and base the jig off that location? Hope that makes sense.
You can always cut the board to close distance then trim the miter to get closer. The top of the leg (inside the frame) has to be rounded of dog eared so it dosen't hit the top when it folds up. I believe my legs are about 12 inches long
The spacer can be any size, but you have to match you leg and jig to the blocks. The thicker the spacer the longer the leg. We have a pre-built jig that includes a leg template and space if you are interested. www.etsy.com/listing/900536920/cornhole-leg-jig-with-template-for-leg
We are now offering a leg jig already made and ready to ship. You will get a jig, leg template, and a spacer block delivered to you. It's perfectly aligned for 1x 4 framing and you can use it on both sides. www.etsy.com/listing/900536920/cornhole-leg-jig-with-template-for-leg
Thank you, yes I made one for each side so I could clamp and drill at the same time. You could modify to use the same jig on both sides by taking off the top alignment block. Just have to have a reference point someplace for the up/down point. For instance if you add the legs after the deck is installed to could use the underside of the deck as a reference.
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Just mark and drill the hole on the leg. Put the spacer in but leg up to it and drill. Perfectly aligned.
Yup
Thanks, Building my Jig tomorrow
You are welcome, I have a couple other jig videos as well.
When you dog ear the leg tops, what angle are you using and how do you come up with your measurements so each cut is the same distance to the center?
I cut them at 33 degree I believe and I use the jig. I put the leg on the frame without the hole drilled in it. Attach the jig and it drills the frame and leg hole at the same time.
I also make this jig as well if you are interested.
www.etsy.com/Simplewoodshopco/listing/900536920/cornhole-leg-install-jig-with-template?Copy&ListingManager&Share&.lmsm&share_time=1650575819893
I also use a jig to drill the holes into the frame and legs. Just mainly wanted to know what angle you cut your dog ears at so the legs rotate properly when you set the boards up.
How do you figure out your leg angle or do you make a frame with legs by raising the board up to the 12" height cut the leg angle and then make the jig based off that?
Hey,
I made the fits set by raising up the boards and marking a level line. Then made a jig from that. That is probably the easiest to do. The angle changes depending on where you put your bolt hole.
@@SimpleWoodShop I want to use 22.5 on my miter because it's a hard stop point. So would I cut the angle first, raise the board up, clamp the leg to the board when it's flush to the ground and base the jig off that location? Hope that makes sense.
You can always cut the board to close distance then trim the miter to get closer. The top of the leg (inside the frame) has to be rounded of dog eared so it dosen't hit the top when it folds up. I believe my legs are about 12 inches long
can the spacer block be any size? is there a benefit to having a smaller or bigger one? how big is yours?
The spacer can be any size, but you have to match you leg and jig to the blocks. The thicker the spacer the longer the leg.
We have a pre-built jig that includes a leg template and space if you are interested.
www.etsy.com/listing/900536920/cornhole-leg-jig-with-template-for-leg
@@SimpleWoodShop is that jig for a 1x3 frame or 1x4?
@@travisculwell6700 1x4
@@SimpleWoodShop dang I use 1x3s
Great video. How thick is the space block?
*spacer
Thank you. The spacer is 1 5/16th “ thick. It based on the legs and frame I use so you may have to modify for your legs.
We are now offering a leg jig already made and ready to ship. You will get a jig, leg template, and a spacer block delivered to you. It's perfectly aligned for 1x 4 framing and you can use it on both sides.
www.etsy.com/listing/900536920/cornhole-leg-jig-with-template-for-leg
Nice video. You will need a right and left side jig, yes?
Thank you, yes I made one for each side so I could clamp and drill at the same time.
You could modify to use the same jig on both sides by taking off the top alignment block. Just have to have a reference point someplace for the up/down point. For instance if you add the legs after the deck is installed to could use the underside of the deck as a reference.
Thanks. I think simply rotating it would work. Just using the end block.