I let this oil pan dry about 12 hours before putting oil in it can I let it sit with the pan off for about 6 hours dripping so no oil comes down onto silicone while it's drying the 12 hours 6 quarts 5w 20
Why do I watch these!? I own two fords , neither has the 3.5l . You just make these so damm informative I don’t have a choice, 😂!! Please keep it up , you’ve already made one job Simple and straight forward for me (21 F150 mud flaps)
Great video! I came here to see reasons why I may have a lower engine oil leak. The leak is not too bad but leaks in general drive me crazy. Seems to be weeping out when parked on a downward incline. I was hoping it would be something relatively simple like oil pan but didn’t realize it’s a 4 hr book job. Out of warranty now so hopefully independent is reasonable. Anyway, thank you for the walk through!
I have 2011 explorer with 3.5 in for a used car inspection. There is a noise in the front end I can’t find. No play in the tie rods, lower ball joints, or sway links. The two motor mounts I can see don’t look bad. Has 101k on the clock. Is there any common issues you see? This one has noise over bumps and when shaking the steering wheel while driving. I appreciate any advice.
Sometimes it's hard to diagnose the sway bar links because they seem tight but if you can actually disconnect them and then go for a test drive and see if the sound goes away Another thing you can do is have somebody turning steering wheel slowly and reach your hand inside and hold on to the spring and see if the spring is popping and if it is you need a new strut assembly or some people break down the strut and just replace the strut mount but I like to actually do Quick struts because it's easier and you don't have to worry about that damn spring coming off and hitting you
@@FordBossMe I very appreciate you’re help! I’ll try disconnecting the sway links and see what happens there. Very kind of you to take time to respond. Keep wrenching sir!
Wife’s 2017 explorer with the 3.5 has a small oil leak that looks like it’s right near the black plastic cover for the flex plate. I was hoping it wasn’t a main seal. We only have 21,000 miles on it, so I was very surprised to find it leaking oil. Maybe this is it?
How do you move the transmission for a dime distance I can’t fit this pan back in for the life of me I can’t budge the trans it’s like there’s no budge
@@FordBossMe ok took those bolts off. Feels like something is still holding it. Can’t split the trans from the engine. Not even enough to put the dime in there. Looks like a bracket from the ptu to the engine block might be holding it, I’ll keep giving it a try. Thanks for the great help from your videos and replies.
@@miguellozano8936 you have to remove that ptu bracket, which means you have to pull the rear converter and after that the bracket comes off to gain access to the last bellhousing bolt
I have access to the Ford genuine service site, that bracket does have to come off to get that last bellhousing bolt off, not sure why he doesn't mention that in the video
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7t4z-9457-AA - I misspoke and said 7
Also you have to remember to pull the 15 mm bolts out of the Roll restrictor lower trans mount to get the pan down
Silicone Used Is TA357 - this is ford's go to silicone now
I let this oil pan dry about 12 hours before putting oil in it can I let it sit with the pan off for about 6 hours dripping so no oil comes down onto silicone while it's drying the 12 hours
6 quarts 5w 20
Literally please keep it up. Someone that actually cares about the job. Hats off to you
Why do I watch these!? I own two fords , neither has the 3.5l . You just make these so damm informative I don’t have a choice, 😂!!
Please keep it up , you’ve already made one job Simple and straight forward for me (21 F150 mud flaps)
Well I appreciate you watching for sure and I appreciate the support
Great video! I came here to see reasons why I may have a lower engine oil leak. The leak is not too bad but leaks in general drive me crazy. Seems to be weeping out when parked on a downward incline. I was hoping it would be something relatively simple like oil pan but didn’t realize it’s a 4 hr book job. Out of warranty now so hopefully independent is reasonable. Anyway, thank you for the walk through!
Great video I can tell you take pride in your job that's rare these days
I really like to make customers happy and do it right the first time
I even asked for permission to keep the vehicle an extra day just so I can make sure everything set up properly and cure so it didn't leak again
About to replace pan gasket on my 2016 Explorer 3.5 naturally aspirated, thanks for the tips 👌🏻
My 2007 has a leak in the back that looks like a rear main but i am debating on pulling the pan because i have to do the water pump anyway.
I have 2011 explorer with 3.5 in for a used car inspection. There is a noise in the front end I can’t find. No play in the tie rods, lower ball joints, or sway links. The two motor mounts I can see don’t look bad. Has 101k on the clock. Is there any common issues you see? This one has noise over bumps and when shaking the steering wheel while driving. I appreciate any advice.
So on those the sway bar links make noise over bumps and when shaking the steering wheel and also the strut Tower mounts do the same thing
Sometimes it's hard to diagnose the sway bar links because they seem tight but if you can actually disconnect them and then go for a test drive and see if the sound goes away
Another thing you can do is have somebody turning steering wheel slowly and reach your hand inside and hold on to the spring and see if the spring is popping and if it is you need a new strut assembly or some people break down the strut and just replace the strut mount but I like to actually do Quick struts because it's easier and you don't have to worry about that damn spring coming off and hitting you
@@FordBossMe I very appreciate you’re help! I’ll try disconnecting the sway links and see what happens there. Very kind of you to take time to respond. Keep wrenching sir!
Wife’s 2017 explorer with the 3.5 has a small oil leak that looks like it’s right near the black plastic cover for the flex plate. I was hoping it wasn’t a main seal. We only have 21,000 miles on it, so I was very surprised to find it leaking oil. Maybe this is it?
99.9% it is this
How do you move the transmission for a dime distance I can’t fit this pan back in for the life of me I can’t budge the trans it’s like there’s no budge
You have to take out some of the transmission bolts around the side I said that in the video though
Was it necessary to use a torch to heat the exhaust pipe nuts?
On this one no but sometimes yes
I just sprayed some penetrant spray on here
By any chance do you have to remove any bolts from the ptu? Also what about the flex plate bolts?
No in the video I told you the exact bolts that you have to remove and you don't have to remove the PTU bolts or the Flex plate bolts
@@FordBossMe ok took those bolts off. Feels like something is still holding it. Can’t split the trans from the engine. Not even enough to put the dime in there. Looks like a bracket from the ptu to the engine block might be holding it, I’ll keep giving it a try. Thanks for the great help from your videos and replies.
@@miguellozano8936 you have to remove that ptu bracket, which means you have to pull the rear converter and after that the bracket comes off to gain access to the last bellhousing bolt
I have access to the Ford genuine service site, that bracket does have to come off to get that last bellhousing bolt off, not sure why he doesn't mention that in the video
Good info!
tyvm