How to test an ignition coil
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Ignition coils are often blamed for poor running and misfires, and lets face it, they aren't cheap either! Testing them is relatively easy and can be done with the coil still on the vehicle.
The first test to perform in my book is a resistance check of both the primary and secondary windings with the coil at ambient temperature. This video runs through this process and all you need is a multi-meter that will measure ohms.
I'd suggest also doing the same test with the coil hot if you have specs for this as often, when a coil warms up one of the windings can go open circuit so it's well worth testing for this also.
Provided both windings are within specification then the next step for me is to perform a spark test. I'll be posting a video showing you how to do this in the next few days...
If you have any questions or comments then please add them below & I'll do my best to respond quickly.
Andy Mechanic
You’re the only one that explains this in detail what I understood what was going on very good video
Thank you for your feedback. It's good to know the videos are helpful. Have a great day. Andy
Great video A+
Thanks so much you have a very good video on the subject
Excellent video 👍🏻
C'est toujours un ground plaisir de voir et d'apprendre de vos vidéo merci
It's always fun to see and Learn From Your video thank you
Merci Chamce, I'm pleased you find my videos interesting and helpful too. Have a great day. Andy
Just watched again. Thanks it’s helping
another great video dude keep it up
Thanks again :-)
I found that when one goes bad, try just swapping them around. I’ve done this twice. Car starts running rough, swap it, with like cylinder next to it, the computer seems to reset, and your good till it does it again. Have accord, does this about once a year so far. Ridiculous these coils. Give me back a distributor, anyday!!!!
Good show. Thanks.
thank you great job
Good brother please explain 5 wire ignition coil
I just got electricuted by touching my engine bay fender near my ignition coil it was a crippling pulsating shock like ticking.
Damn. ..well you have some damaged insulation somewhere on the HT side. Run your car up in the dark and spray area with water (hand sprayer) and you may see the damaged part by sparks jumping to ground. Cheers Andy
If my coil is producing spark to the output wire that leads to the distributer cap but there is no spark on the plugs, what could that be? I already replaced the cap and rotor. Still no spark...is insufficient voltage able to cause it to give no spark at all?
Check that the rotor is making contact with the input (king lead). Also, if ignition timing is way off then the rotor won't be aligned with one of the output posts & therefore spark will not jump to post & along HT lead to the cylinder. Check your ignition timing :-)
Cheers Andy
Dumb question, i always have ones nobody asks. I bought an Accel 8140C for my 22r, i obviously knew it wouldnt mount to the igniter, but i have the 8mm cables. Will this work if i just splice the wiring together or do i need an igniter or what else? How do i mounth the coil?
I just replaced the distributor cap... and rotor I think at the same time. But im teaching this all to myself. From a haynes manual mostly.
Can the ignition coil failure or one that has primary coil higher resistance values than the spec cause the igniter pack (mr2 design) not to take the igf signal from the ecu to ground and therefore get a code 14 on a Toyota
From what I understand from the diagnosis I did on the MR2 the ECU commands the igniter to trigger a spark event (IGT signal). Once spark event has occurred (igniter monitors coil) then Igniter will pull IGT to ground to confirm an ignition event. So, if coil is faulty then it's highly likely the Igniter will not issue signal on IGF & ECU will stop engine by cutting injection pulse & code will be stored
Hope this is of help
Cheers Andy
Hi Andy - Thank you! I have a question when you test the continuity of the primary coil negative and positive what do you get? I don't get a reading in ohms for the primary coil test, (0.00), however, on secondary coil I get 13.4 which means is good. So I tested continuity and heard the sound.. wonder if your does the same? Wouldn't that mean there's a short? Thank you for your videos this helps tons of people with limited resources who tries identifying an issue avoiding get robbed by purchasing other parts, labor, tools, valuable time and those who call them selves "auto mechanics". Appreciated.
Yohan H check to see if you have spark
👍
Hi I have a coil pack with four ignition coils, one time it had spark and when I try to start it again after some time it didn’t have spark. So I don’t know if it’s the first time it had low spark, what can I do to make sure of it?
I have a 2011 Toyota Sienna that is crank no start. Was running fine turned it off and the next day it wouldn’t start.
Can i get a new st170 corona igniter and coil?
I test the ignition coil on my sport car and it have high resistance around 1.5 and the service manual say 0.7 would good ignition coil. The car not starting can this be bad ignition coil? Fuel injector are firing fuel.
Yes. Definatly, if the coil is out of spec, which it is, it should be replaced.
If no spark then do test the primary side of the circuit for switching during cranking as if not switched then you won't get a spark.
Andy
I liked the way this vid was presented. i have a 1991 Mitsubishi 3000gt tt with this coil spec from the manual. Primary side 0.67 to 0.81 on each of the 3 coils , secondary side 11.3k to 15.3 ohms. my secondary side reads 12.55 12.65 . 12.75. so within spec . The secodary side spec is 0.67 to 0.81 ohms. the reading i get is 1.3 1.1 and 0.9 . Confused on this as its not as i thought it would be displayed ?? have i measured it wrong?
0l)runs good till it gets warm then lost power
I have a 1996 Plymouth voyager base model 3.0 engine and I am getting p0300 code I replaced coil and light went out for awhile then it came back on then I replaced pugs and wires and cap and rotor still is on could it be that the coil I got be bad I had timing belt water pump and all belts replaced and idle arm and pully and tensioner replaced and light goes out for a while then comes back on but has stayed on for a while now. can somebody help me car runs fine when warm but runs alittle rough cold and now trying to run rough in reverse alittle.
+james griggs Hi James, unfortunately I don't have access to fault codes for your car so have no idea what that code relates to.
If you like ask Ivan from Motoyam82, he's more familiar with the US cars and has a RUclips channel too covering auto diagnostics.
Cheers Andy