Kevin, Tom, Rich, Roger, Norm, Heath, Mark, Jenn, Charlie, Mauro, and Nathan: it's said that we find our role models where we can. For those of us who grew up with terrible - or no - role models, you have taught me so much more than just building a home (although that is a gift in itself); you've taught me self-reliance, logic, and a work ethic. You have made my life better. Thank you.
I love how these older videos seem a bit more scripted and rehearsed, whereas today they're such pros at it and more comfortable with each other it just seems like a conversation. This is one of the best programs on television of all time.
I am so glad to see that the apprenticeship program is still being done. Good for you Matt and stick with it. My Grandpa was a Carpenter and I have his original box of hand tools.
Question if you don't mind. Can't I just lay down some fiber board insulation on top of the attic floor joists to lower the house temperature a bit like 3-4 degrees?
Does anyone else use these videos to qet the wife to quit asking "why are you doing it that way?" I've found out all I have to say is, "that's what they did on this old house." And all of a sudden it's great that I'm doing it that way. LOL
@@ashleygreenfield1444 leave the paper down. I live in NYS and we get very hot in the summer and very cold in winter. If you live in Florida or a state that is warm most of the year than paper up
If you're keeping your home mostly cool throughout the year, have the paper facing up. If you're keeping your home mostly warm throughout the year, have the paper facing down.
Yea its funny how it's somehow fine for half of the year. Even up here in Canada it hits 100f for a bunch of the summer. Guess you just go by how far north you live
Your explanation for the use of a vapor barrier has to be the most understandable I have seen. Thank you for that! My question is, living in the Northeast (PA), we go 50/50 with heating and cooling our homes so the "warm side" as you put it changes regularly with the seasons. Should vapor barrier placement favor one season over another?
Unrelated but why aren't they falling through the attic? I thought you were suppose to stand on the joists while in attic.. I'm at least I had to in mine
Excellet question. i live in Montreal. Did you get any better answer to your question on where to exactly put the vapor barrier? I know it's towards the inside of the room, but it won't be the case in Summer time!
@@Hedgehodge- I would say that, when in doubt, keep it out. Keep moisture out of the house. So, face the vapor barrier out. Most of the year in most climates, the air outside is more moist than inside.
@@caseyphudson yeah, I never could figure it out since it says indoor homes makes tons of humidity through showers, even with fans, cooking, dishwasher, fridge condensation tray etc
Can I put a layer of plastic membrane/film over the joists, then put the insulation fiberglass layer over the plastic membrane/film? This way, there will be a layer of air barrier between ceiling and the insulation fiberglass layer. Will this way help insulate effects? Thanks
I’m in Florida and read on several sites it’s opposite of the facing of the Kraft paper in the attic. My builder placed paper barrier facing the living space, but I suspect it’s not efficient.
Most areas of the United States the vapor barrier faces the living side. In southern climates where it the weather is very humid, the vapor barrier faces outside.
I found some cheap insulation that the old apartment complex was throwing away, it was almost a dumpster full, the bags said aspestos or something like that, I already installed it in my attic and everything is good to go
You put up asbestos that someone else threw out??? When you sell your house you have to disclose asbestos in your home because it is hazardous to your health, as in lung cancer, emphysema, etc. I sure hope you were wearing a respirator when you put this stuff in. Was the economy worth risking your health?
This probably has an obvious answer, but here goes. If I want to put the insulation in my attic but have the vapor barrier on top, Can I put the unfaced between the rafters and faced on top perpendicular to the lower portion? (with the faced side up towards the ceiling)
Fellow michiganian here. Just like he said, facing the inside or the "warm" side of the wall. Personally, I'd used something other than fiberglass batting. Roxul (rockwool) is a great choice and much better than fiberglass
So now my next question. Can you effectively install a vapour barrier in an existing attic? I called a few people and they say you can seal everything with foam (around $3 sq ft) but I'm leary in putting too much chemical in my attic...any recommendations? In the video, would you somehow seal the vapour barrier? it seemed open on the sides of the joists
Faced insulation can be used in garage attic, with faced going below and also installing plywood boards on top of joists for walk over? Should be unfaced be used instead of faced?
What about if you hear half the year and cool half the year? You mention heating OR cooling as far as vapor barrier goes but what about when we do both and have extreme summers and winters
If the vapor barrier goes on top when putting on the A/C most of the time in Missouri , does that mean the second layer of faced batt should have be placed on top ?
So if I have blown in already, but it's not "code", and we don't heat or cool the attic, then the vapor barrier should be on the floor beneath all of the blown in? I would have to dig it up and put in new insulation with a vapor barrier? I'm probably going to have to get some professional advice, but I wish I could do it all myself. I know people add vents as well, and I have never done that or electrical work.. all a little daunting to me as a new home owner.
I want to add Insulation above my unconditioned garage. Living in Florida, the heat radiating from the attic can make it difficult to work in the garage. I haven't found anything in my research that Tells me If I should use a vapor barrier or where it should be. Any suggestions?
What happens if it's really humid and hot in the summer and really freezing and cold in the winter? Is there double sided insulation? Or what do I do? I live in Michigan btw
Living in Missouri , my ceiling came down made of plaster. No water damage and insurance won't cover. I just put up drywall for my ceiling. I noticed cellulose was perhaps blown in. Should I need to put down a vapor barrier first on my new drywall that I installed before adding cellulose? And if so do I just lay vapor barrier down without stapling it to the joist ?
Two moisture barriers can lock on moisture in some areas causing mold and fowls your product one well done job with one proper moisture barrier and insulation layer should do just fine in all applications
If I'm insulating a cantilevered floor, and I live in a mostly cold climate (Toronto Ontario Canada) do I put my plastic vapour barrier on the warm side? (Inside my house under my plywood subfloor). Thanks.
man every other video says insulate between rafters and others say don't? I'm confused? my attic is a living space and the previous owner put in a metal roof taking out the old protruding things so do I just cover the 6 foot space with sheetrock or insulate it first
Just did my attic the wrong way the paper is up, wtf!!! Thankfully I only laid down 4 8ft. pieces. Guess I know what I'm doing today, thanks this ol house.
I plan on doing my attic this fall, it's my first home. Living in Massachusetts where we have hot summers and cold winters should I use faced or in faced and if faced should it be up or down
+Jonathan Connor Most areas of the United States the vapor barrier faces the living side. In southern climates where it the weather is very humid, the vapor barrier faces outside.
i have a bargeboard house in new orleans, so the r value on my walls is terrible. to the attic we go, cause i literally can't add insulation on my walls (unless I'm missing something!)
I'd be worried the foam board acts as a vapor barrier and traps moisture if the warm side were inside. Perhaps it would be alright if the warm side were outside and the r19 was unfaced/vapor neutral.
And i am left with also wondering the proper way if any to insulate between the rafters of the roof. I imagine you want some insulation between the rafters just not where the ridge vent crack at the top of roof , OR where the rafter edges connect to the soffits/fascia as those places are meant for air to circulate/vent thru. So one doesn't get moisture in attic , or icicles.
But if you lay the second insulation perpendicular to the first layer, would that not cover up the studs/rafter beams, so then it would stop you from safely stepping on the beams?
Yes, but this video assumes the viewer is like 99.999% of the population who never goes into their attic let alone walks around on the beams. If your attic is unfinished the only time you would be up there is to insulate it or check for a roof leak. If a leak is a problem just move the stuff and see where the beams are.
You could do what I plan to do... go buy some marking flags and fix them to the top of the joists so you know where to put your foot through the insulation. Actually, I plan to put these flags in prior to insulating to mark how deep the insulation should be.
it really helps me a lot, plus when buying the insulation you should do the math on the square footage on 19" and 24" times money... you will be surprise
O ya the paper stuff makes sense now for roofs /when to peel it off. You don't want paper between insulation or its going to wet the insulation over time. And paper wants to face warm side. Great video on figuring out the proper way to insulate an attic floor. You even 90 degree the next layer to cover over any joist/cracks. Don't press it up against the rafters to hard to seal off the ventilation provided near the soffit/fascia
themrhelperguy fiberglass is completely safe, just like asbestos....oh. well I was wearing a hazmat suit anyway because my skin reacts really bad to the fiberglass insulation
I already have old rock wool insulation in the attic with paper facing up and would want to add additional insulation. If I put in insulation without a paper face, there would still be the original insulation paper in the middle. Is this ok?
Watch the video again. They say if there is a vapor barrier in the middle it will cause a condensation problem. Can you remove the vapor barrier in the middle before putting down the additional layer?
We r buying a home, possession in 3 weeks, seller is removing all attic insulation (vermiculite) and we want to re inspect after, ensure and install adequate air sealing and attic ventilation, then reinsulate. Removal is supposed to happen this week. Forecast calls for cold snap for next two weeks. Is it okay to leave the attic uninsulated for a couple of weeks? Can there be enough condensation buildup to damage the ceiling in 3 weeks? If we keep thermostat normal will pipes in walls freeze? Any suggestions?.we prefer to do the upgrades when we have possession
for anyone interested..I found out that 1) turn off humidifier 2) turn down heat to about 60 F 3) crack a window (meaning very small crack) enough to let air in but not enough to freeze pipes. it should be okay for the next few weeks even if the temps dip to -30.
Ill be doing my old house from the 1930 this Monday, I have Owens Corning R- 21 for the first layer, then 2nd layer of ROCKWOOL COMFORTBATT R- 15 Attic. I think it should be enough, the past owner sold the house and the old insulation is upside down. !!!
Question: we had a certified company do the insulation of our attic, but I noticed that 1) No vapor barrier what so ever has been used, just pure fiberglass insulation 2) They put the insulation on top of the beams, not in between them, leaving a big air gap. I politely questioned them about it and they said it wouldn't make any difference and that a vapor barrier is completely overrated and not needed at all. (???????) Should I be worried??? Furthermore, should I pay the bill when it comes in without letting some other certified company having a second opinion on that job? Something tells me they just wanted the job done quickly and without any hassle..... o.O
Andrew Holloway Nope, no air seal at all, nothing. Just insulation on top of the beams and that's it. And it's a bit difficult to make pictures since it's a tight space, but I could have a try. I had another company having a look at it recently and he was in total disbelief about the many basic mistakes they made (yet they are in this business as a certified company for well over 30 years). He also asked me how long it took them, and when I said barely one day his jaw dropped. Because normally that particular job - with the tight spaces and all that - should have taken at least 3-5 days when properly done. And when he asked how much the bill was, he jaw dropped again. Almost $4000. Which is apparently a ridiculous amount of money for what they did and the little amount of hours they spent on it (not even 8 hours). So he gave us two options: either his own company redoes everything properly - which will cost me a lot of money again - or I fix it myself with free professional and personal guidance from his company. As I don't have that kinda money just laying around to let another company redo the entire thing I'm tending to do it myself but meanwhile sue the hell out of that company in court to get a refund. Not to mention a complete refund to fix my sealing since they made 3 huge holes in it big enough to fit a full sized grown man in (their explanation on that one was "because otherwise we can't get to it", which I know found out was complete BS too). SMFH
This video opens up new worlds of how insulation works and why put paper over things or under things. It applies to the same principle of the tyvek paper on the side of the house before you put up insulation and siding. Though you always really face the paper closer to the OSB/plywood side rather then the vinyl siding side. So it seems if the house was cooler then the environment you may want to put insulation down then paper over then siding but that probably not reasonably to follow same logic as roofs simple because of rain and weathering superseding the issue. And the fact roof attics are mostly waterproofed by nature you can go by the turning of the paper outside or inside when laying it down... where as outside siding paper , insulation usually always goes paper first , then insulation , then siding.
So, I live in Houston where it is hot during the summer and humid most of the year. My garage is sheet rocked, but not insulated in the walls or ceiling. I have stone on the exterior, which seems to trap the heat and radiate it into the garage. The temperature inside the garage is easily 10 degrees warmer than outside. I'm not sure I want to tear into the walls to insulate them, but I would like to insulate the ceiling. If I understand the commentary, the vapor barrier should face toward the roof / shingles when laying the insulation into the rafters. Then perhaps paperless insulation at 90 degrees. Correct?
What about people who live where 50% time if's freezing, so we heat our house. And then 50% of the time it's cooking, with 100 degree weather, so we use air conditioning. Then which way does the vapor barrier go?
All this video does is confuse me. They do realize that we run heat in the winter and AC in the summer right? So how the heck do we set the insulation? Every house I have been in during construction has the paper facing inward toward the inside of the house. So what happens in the summer when the sun is beating down on the roof and the inside is colder than the outside?
You don't discuss the importance of air sealing the cracks in the attic -- cracks around wiring, lights, pipes, joists, and around walls -- before adding any insulation. These cracks can account for a huge amount of heat loss.
You've probably succumbed to a lack of food and water by now, plus your cell battery is probably dead, but in case not, I think it would be appropriate to dial 9-11 at this point.
The only missing piece is should you install paper and do blow in insulation instead its messier but when would you want to do blown in as opposed to roll on /or staple like the video.
Unfortunately non of your questions will be answered here. They gave the basics but forgot the variable I.e regions/ climate and how you can maneuver around it.
Kevin, Tom, Rich, Roger, Norm, Heath, Mark, Jenn, Charlie, Mauro, and Nathan: it's said that we find our role models where we can. For those of us who grew up with terrible - or no - role models, you have taught me so much more than just building a home (although that is a gift in itself); you've taught me self-reliance, logic, and a work ethic. You have made my life better. Thank you.
"Vapor barrier always goes to the warm side" I've been googling this for about an hour and Tommy summed it up in one sentence.
guess i have to change this ever 6 months.....
@@Hedgehodge- just turn the house inside out, ezpz
All fun and games except for the entire middle part of the country.
but that side changes in the summer, so... ??
Paper to the people
I love how these older videos seem a bit more scripted and rehearsed, whereas today they're such pros at it and more comfortable with each other it just seems like a conversation. This is one of the best programs on television of all time.
I like this better
im a carpenters apprentice... and i must say this show is very refreshing and entertaining because its so realistic and simple... highly recommended
I am so glad to see that the apprenticeship program is still being done. Good for you Matt and stick with it. My Grandpa was a Carpenter and I have his original box of hand tools.
Question if you don't mind. Can't I just lay down some fiber board insulation on top of the attic floor joists to lower the house temperature a bit like 3-4 degrees?
Does anyone else use these videos to qet the wife to quit asking "why are you doing it that way?"
I've found out all I have to say is, "that's what they did on this old house." And all of a sudden it's great that I'm doing it that way. LOL
What side does the paper lay if your home is in extreme heat in the summer and extreme cold in the winter?
Thank you! This is what I have been stuck on
@@ashleygreenfield1444 leave the paper down. I live in NYS and we get very hot in the summer and very cold in winter. If you live in Florida or a state that is warm most of the year than paper up
If you're keeping your home mostly cool throughout the year, have the paper facing up. If you're keeping your home mostly warm throughout the year, have the paper facing down.
Paper side goes towards the living space ALWAYS!!
Yea its funny how it's somehow fine for half of the year. Even up here in Canada it hits 100f for a bunch of the summer. Guess you just go by how far north you live
Literally answered my lingering questions within the first 20 seconds thanks you guys are amazing
I think your show should start teaching attic air sealing also before insulation is laid down.
I love watching this old house
Simple and effective. Many thanks, ten years on.
Your explanation for the use of a vapor barrier has to be the most understandable I have seen. Thank you for that! My question is, living in the Northeast (PA), we go 50/50 with heating and cooling our homes so the "warm side" as you put it changes regularly with the seasons. Should vapor barrier placement favor one season over another?
Unrelated but why aren't they falling through the attic? I thought you were suppose to stand on the joists while in attic.. I'm at least I had to in mine
@@alexd5188 they’re holograms
Excellet question. i live in Montreal. Did you get any better answer to your question on where to exactly put the vapor barrier? I know it's towards the inside of the room, but it won't be the case in Summer time!
when installation of insulation , what to do with the vapor barrier if you have central a/c...1/2 the year and heat ....half the year?
you have to flip it every 6 months after winter is over...LOL, i have no clue either :(
Paper face down
Both I'd think
@@Hedgehodge- I would say that, when in doubt, keep it out. Keep moisture out of the house. So, face the vapor barrier out. Most of the year in most climates, the air outside is more moist than inside.
@@caseyphudson yeah, I never could figure it out since it says indoor homes makes tons of humidity through showers, even with fans, cooking, dishwasher, fridge condensation tray etc
Can I put a layer of plastic membrane/film over the joists, then put the insulation fiberglass layer over the plastic membrane/film? This way, there will be a layer of air barrier between ceiling and the insulation fiberglass layer. Will this way help insulate effects? Thanks
1:00 Good to know. Most sources I have seen do not make this distinction.
I’m in Florida and read on several sites it’s opposite of the facing of the Kraft paper in the attic. My builder placed paper barrier facing the living space, but I suspect it’s not efficient.
So Tom. Where does the vapor barrier go when you heat in the winter, cool in the summer?
Did you watch the video?
Most areas of the United States the vapor barrier faces the living side. In southern climates where it the weather is very humid, the vapor barrier faces outside.
Yes, apparently you didn't watch the video.
That's a legit question a lot of places I turn the heat on in the winter air on in summer what you to do turn the insulation around for the season
willie freeman like that question. lol
what about spray foam? can you spray foam the rafters directly? closed or open foam? would you then not need bat insulation on the ceiling?
I tried installing how they showed but my foot kept breaking through the ceiling!
VacaRider your suppose to step only on the beams
Arabelys Baldera but that isn’t t what they demonstrate here! I followed their guidance! I feel cheated!
@@mbigatti lmfao
😂🤣
Also, the next time you're in the attic, can't tell where the beams are, there is 12 inches of insulation on top of those beams!
I found some cheap insulation that the old apartment complex was throwing away, it was almost a dumpster full, the bags said aspestos or something like that, I already installed it in my attic and everything is good to go
🤣
You put up asbestos that someone else threw out??? When you sell your house you have to disclose asbestos in your home because it is hazardous to your health, as in lung cancer, emphysema, etc. I sure hope you were wearing a respirator when you put this stuff in. Was the economy worth risking your health?
This probably has an obvious answer, but here goes. If I want to put the insulation in my attic but have the vapor barrier on top, Can I put the unfaced between the rafters and faced on top perpendicular to the lower portion? (with the faced side up towards the ceiling)
Which side should the vapour barrier face if you live in Michigan and heat half the year, cool the other half?
Fellow michiganian here. Just like he said, facing the inside or the "warm" side of the wall. Personally, I'd used something other than fiberglass batting. Roxul (rockwool) is a great choice and much better than fiberglass
What if you use blown in insulation regarding the vapor barrier?
So now my next question. Can you effectively install a vapour barrier in an existing attic? I called a few people and they say you can seal everything with foam (around $3 sq ft) but I'm leary in putting too much chemical in my attic...any recommendations? In the video, would you somehow seal the vapour barrier? it seemed open on the sides of the joists
Can you do a show on how to install Rockwool insulation in attic?
Faced insulation can be used in garage attic, with faced going below and also installing plywood boards on top of joists for walk over?
Should be unfaced be used instead of faced?
How about in Tucson Arizona where the vapor barrier goes? Top or bottom?
What about if you hear half the year and cool half the year? You mention heating OR cooling as far as vapor barrier goes but what about when we do both and have extreme summers and winters
If the vapor barrier goes on top when putting on the A/C most of the time in Missouri , does that mean the second layer of faced batt should have be placed on top ?
I had this problem... They placed the UNfaced batt underneath first, then the 2nd (top) layer was with the paper on it, vapor barrier facing UP.
So if I have blown in already, but it's not "code", and we don't heat or cool the attic, then the vapor barrier should be on the floor beneath all of the blown in? I would have to dig it up and put in new insulation with a vapor barrier?
I'm probably going to have to get some professional advice, but I wish I could do it all myself. I know people add vents as well, and I have never done that or electrical work.. all a little daunting to me as a new home owner.
regarding the eavestrough venting, they didnt mention those planks that can be put in to keep the airflow open, are they recommended?
Which way do you put paper if half the year you are heat and the other half air?
I want to add Insulation above my unconditioned garage. Living in Florida, the heat radiating from the attic can make it difficult to work in the garage. I haven't found anything in my research that Tells me If I should use a vapor barrier or where it should be. Any suggestions?
Can you insulate both attic rafter and attic floor?
What kind of vapor barrier is used under the gray, loose insulation? It should have a vapor barrier too, right?
so do you flip it over during the summer time when you have the AC on all the time with the attic being hotter?
A commenter from NY state said keep the paper face down
What if you live in PA and the AC is on usually from may thru September 5 months out of the year almost half. Paper or no paper insulation?
What happens if it's really humid and hot in the summer and really freezing and cold in the winter? Is there double sided insulation? Or what do I do? I live in Michigan btw
Driven 2015 above ⬆⬆said he's in NY and keeps the paper facing down.
I have a new construction home in Columbia Sc. and the crawl space is not insulated but the attic is should I insulate the crawl space. Thanks
So I’m supposed to have a vertically and horizontally placed insulation bat in the attic?
can I put plywood on top of the insulation to walk safely for checkups, inspections or repairs? Or does that defeat the purpose?
If the flooring compresses the insulation it will reduce it's efficiency considerably.
He does another video showing you can frame around the insulation with 2x8 (or maybe 2x10 don't recall) and plywood over that to avoid compressing
Living in Missouri , my ceiling came down made of plaster. No water damage and insurance won't cover. I just put up drywall for my ceiling. I noticed cellulose was perhaps blown in. Should I need to put down a vapor barrier first on my new drywall that I installed before adding cellulose? And if so do I just lay vapor barrier down without stapling it to the joist ?
how about for finished attics? It's always hot with no air circulation in summer and same temp as outside in winter....lol
What about styrovent in the roof joist channels???
Two moisture barriers can lock on moisture in some areas causing mold and fowls your product one well done job with one proper moisture barrier and insulation layer should do just fine in all applications
If I'm insulating a cantilevered floor, and I live in a mostly cold climate (Toronto Ontario Canada) do I put my plastic vapour barrier on the warm side? (Inside my house under my plywood subfloor). Thanks.
vapor faces the warm side. So if insulating beneath a cantilevered floor, the paper would face up and against the floor.
What about can lights? Orange sprinkler lines? And standing on the 2x4s so you don’t fall through the roof?
I have vapour barrier ontop of 50mm cellulose then 170mm fibrglass. Is that an issue. The vapour barrier is 50mm above the ceiling in between joists.
You arent showing the vapour barrier being taped in this video is that required.
man every other video says insulate between rafters and others say don't? I'm confused? my attic is a living space and the previous owner put in a metal roof taking out the old protruding things so do I just cover the 6 foot space with sheetrock or insulate it first
How much ventilation do we need in a 1000 sq' attic?
Adding a floor to the attic, what would be the R value of the floor?
Just did my attic the wrong way the paper is up, wtf!!! Thankfully I only laid down 4 8ft. pieces.
Guess I know what I'm doing today, thanks this ol house.
I was wondering how Tommy was going to pronounce R-Value. I've never heard him use a "R" before! lol
I plan on doing my attic this fall, it's my first home. Living in Massachusetts where we have hot summers and cold winters should I use faced or in faced and if faced should it be up or down
Faced to the living/ heated space, If you install layers ( perpendicular ) of insulation , bottom layer faced only to avoid moisture lock…
So if you heat and cool your space, what do you do then?
In Indiana we heat for 6 months and cool for about 6 months.
You bust out the local code, could be it requires vapor retarder or even vapor neutral in that case
I live in SC by the coast. I feel like I heat and cool my home equally throughout the year, so which way should the vapor barrier go? Down or up?
Up for sure
So if I heat in winter, cool in summer, what side? I watched the video, only talks about if you heat or cool only.
+Jonathan Connor Most areas of the United States the vapor barrier faces the living side. In southern climates where it the weather is very humid, the vapor barrier faces outside.
great answer. In Florida the vapor barrier should face the outside of the living space
i have a bargeboard house in new orleans, so the r value on my walls is terrible. to the attic we go, cause i literally can't add insulation on my walls (unless I'm missing something!)
Can foam board be used on top of R19?
I'd be worried the foam board acts as a vapor barrier and traps moisture if the warm side were inside. Perhaps it would be alright if the warm side were outside and the r19 was unfaced/vapor neutral.
So in Texas it should be on top and in Colorado it would be on bottom... So, if the vapor barrier is flammable, shouldn't it be sealed?
What about air sealing?!!? ☹️
And i am left with also wondering the proper way if any to insulate between the rafters of the roof. I imagine you want some insulation between the rafters just not where the ridge vent crack at the top of roof , OR where the rafter edges connect to the soffits/fascia as those places are meant for air to circulate/vent thru. So one doesn't get moisture in attic , or icicles.
But if you lay the second insulation perpendicular to the first layer, would that not cover up the studs/rafter beams, so then it would stop you from safely stepping on the beams?
Yes, but this video assumes the viewer is like 99.999% of the population who never goes into their attic let alone walks around on the beams. If your attic is unfinished the only time you would be up there is to insulate it or check for a roof leak. If a leak is a problem just move the stuff and see where the beams are.
You could do what I plan to do... go buy some marking flags and fix them to the top of the joists so you know where to put your foot through the insulation. Actually, I plan to put these flags in prior to insulating to mark how deep the insulation should be.
@@JohnDoe-ld8nr You would also have to do annual checkup and/or maintenance of your central ac if you have ductwork in the attic
it really helps me a lot, plus when buying the insulation you should do the math on the square footage on 19" and 24" times money... you will be surprise
O ya the paper stuff makes sense now for roofs /when to peel it off. You don't want paper between insulation or its going to wet the insulation over time. And paper wants to face warm side. Great video on figuring out the proper way to insulate an attic floor. You even 90 degree the next layer to cover over any joist/cracks. Don't press it up against the rafters to hard to seal off the ventilation provided near the soffit/fascia
So, are they saying to lay R-19 between the ceiling joists and then another layer of R-19 running perpendicular?
I think the 10 inch might be r30. Depends on your climate zone as to what r level is required in the attic.
Should we be staying away from fiberglass yet
themrhelperguy fiberglass is completely safe, just like asbestos....oh. well I was wearing a hazmat suit anyway because my skin reacts really bad to the fiberglass insulation
Sooo much nostalgia watching this! ANyone else watching in 2018?!?!
Nope, 2023 now
I already have old rock wool insulation in the attic with paper facing up and would want to add additional insulation. If I put in insulation without a paper face, there would still be the original insulation paper in the middle. Is this ok?
Watch the video again. They say if there is a vapor barrier in the middle it will cause a condensation problem. Can you remove the vapor barrier in the middle before putting down the additional layer?
3:10 Now would be a nice time to mention that on new construction you can avoid this "old house" problem with raised-heel trusses.
We r buying a home, possession in 3 weeks, seller is removing all attic insulation (vermiculite) and we want to re inspect after, ensure and install adequate air sealing and attic ventilation, then reinsulate. Removal is supposed to happen this week. Forecast calls for cold snap for next two weeks. Is it okay to leave the attic uninsulated for a couple of weeks? Can there be enough condensation buildup to damage the ceiling in 3 weeks? If we keep thermostat normal will pipes in walls freeze? Any suggestions?.we prefer to do the upgrades when we have possession
for anyone interested..I found out that 1) turn off humidifier 2) turn down heat to about 60 F 3) crack a window (meaning very small crack) enough to let air in but not enough to freeze pipes. it should be okay for the next few weeks even if the temps dip to -30.
Question: is putting silver glow better on the sides of the attic than having fiber glass on the floor.
great video
Ill be doing my old house from the 1930 this Monday, I have Owens Corning R- 21 for the first layer, then 2nd layer of ROCKWOOL COMFORTBATT R- 15 Attic. I think it should be enough, the past owner sold the house and the old insulation is upside down. !!!
I need you for my old home!
This is such a good video. These guys are boss
Thanks. You answered the questions I had in mind!
What about spray foam?
Question: we had a certified company do the insulation of our attic, but I noticed that
1) No vapor barrier what so ever has been used, just pure fiberglass insulation
2) They put the insulation on top of the beams, not in between them, leaving a big air gap.
I politely questioned them about it and they said it wouldn't make any difference and that a vapor barrier is completely overrated and not needed at all. (???????)
Should I be worried??? Furthermore, should I pay the bill when it comes in without letting some other certified company having a second opinion on that job? Something tells me they just wanted the job done quickly and without any hassle..... o.O
Did they air seal first before insulating? & do you have pictures?
Andrew Holloway Nope, no air seal at all, nothing. Just insulation on top of the beams and that's it. And it's a bit difficult to make pictures since it's a tight space, but I could have a try.
I had another company having a look at it recently and he was in total disbelief about the many basic mistakes they made (yet they are in this business as a certified company for well over 30 years). He also asked me how long it took them, and when I said barely one day his jaw dropped. Because normally that particular job - with the tight spaces and all that - should have taken at least 3-5 days when properly done. And when he asked how much the bill was, he jaw dropped again. Almost $4000. Which is apparently a ridiculous amount of money for what they did and the little amount of hours they spent on it (not even 8 hours). So he gave us two options: either his own company redoes everything properly - which will cost me a lot of money again - or I fix it myself with free professional and personal guidance from his company. As I don't have that kinda money just laying around to let another company redo the entire thing I'm tending to do it myself but meanwhile sue the hell out of that company in court to get a refund. Not to mention a complete refund to fix my sealing since they made 3 huge holes in it big enough to fit a full sized grown man in (their explanation on that one was "because otherwise we can't get to it", which I know found out was complete BS too).
SMFH
This video opens up new worlds of how insulation works and why put paper over things or under things. It applies to the same principle of the tyvek paper on the side of the house before you put up insulation and siding. Though you always really face the paper closer to the OSB/plywood side rather then the vinyl siding side. So it seems if the house was cooler then the environment you may want to put insulation down then paper over then siding but that probably not reasonably to follow same logic as roofs simple because of rain and weathering superseding the issue. And the fact roof attics are mostly waterproofed by nature you can go by the turning of the paper outside or inside when laying it down... where as outside siding paper , insulation usually always goes paper first , then insulation , then siding.
So, I live in Houston where it is hot during the summer and humid most of the year. My garage is sheet rocked, but not insulated in the walls or ceiling. I have stone on the exterior, which seems to trap the heat and radiate it into the garage. The temperature inside the garage is easily 10 degrees warmer than outside. I'm not sure I want to tear into the walls to insulate them, but I would like to insulate the ceiling. If I understand the commentary, the vapor barrier should face toward the roof / shingles when laying the insulation into the rafters. Then perhaps paperless insulation at 90 degrees. Correct?
It's too bad many of these comments are not answered.
The cc language set for this video is Vietnamese. It will need to be switched back to English to be closed caption accessible.
Ok sounds good but if I install the batts the other way and need to get in the roof how do you walk around when you no longer have rafters to walk on?
You build rised walkway from timber first and after that install insulation.
thank you for sharing your video.. hope to see more..
Great video. Thank you!
What about people who live where 50% time if's freezing, so we heat our house. And then 50% of the time it's cooking, with 100 degree weather, so we use air conditioning. Then which way does the vapor barrier go?
All this video does is confuse me. They do realize that we run heat in the winter and AC in the summer right? So how the heck do we set the insulation? Every house I have been in during construction has the paper facing inward toward the inside of the house. So what happens in the summer when the sun is beating down on the roof and the inside is colder than the outside?
You don't discuss the importance of air sealing the cracks in the attic -- cracks around wiring, lights, pipes, joists, and around walls -- before adding any insulation. These cracks can account for a huge amount of heat loss.
I'm stuck in my roof now. help.
You've probably succumbed to a lack of food and water by now, plus your cell battery is probably dead, but in case not, I think it would be appropriate to dial 9-11 at this point.
Are you still stuck 3 years later?
The only missing piece is should you install paper and do blow in insulation instead its messier but when would you want to do blown in as opposed to roll on /or staple like the video.
So why not have a vapor barrier on both sides?
Brendan Cribbs moisture trapped between
You missed sealing air sealing the bottom of the attic
American Home building seems so primitive - less fool proof than an igloo
Unfortunately non of your questions will be answered here. They gave the basics but forgot the variable I.e regions/ climate and how you can maneuver around it.
I thought Steve Ervin resurrected
That is after air sealing all penetrations in ceiling. Blow in cellulose and forget about it.
I don't have those vents in. 1950 home
Paper is a vapor retarder not a barrier
I was like why are they standing on top of the drywall?
paper as a vapour barrier lol
should talk to mike homes (homes on homes)
"Holmes"