I see you have the pass through socket set link in the description but I swear that top nut on the strut is a 21mm and that set only Goes to 19mm. Correct me if I’m wrong. Nice walkthrough.
I don't remember. But whatever I used fit perfect. There are plenty of pass through socket sets out there with several sizes. So use what fits and if your set goes to 19mm, get a set that has larger sizes
massive thanks for inspiration im doing spacers and same springs to my car and so far love it i would like to ask you a question a bit help with springs how do i know which is left or right or springs are same for both sides? i will be using your video to learn how to do it and im going to play with it ;) with Regards
Oh nice! They are the same left and right. So pretty simple overall. These ship quick from us! brosfourrspeed.com/parts-%26-merchandise/ols/products/hr-springs-and-coilovers-rs3
@@BrosFOURRSpeed thanks for reply to tightening bolts could you tell me the front strut mount to body torque settings for those 3 bolts on top and for the bottom part of the front strut where it sits is it 30nm for top and 70nm for bottom bolt? also is the any other torque important for any other bolts that i need to be aware of ? thank you for help
@@lukistfan8108 I’m not too sure the exact specs. I just feel it out and do what feels nice and tight. But I probably get all the lower ones around 60 pounds
@@BrosFOURRSpeed Hi i have finally done HR springs on my car and..... OMG i have made mistake the car looks sooo good lowered but the drive is very hard car bounce on every bumpy road are you really like your RS3 on HR springs?
Where on the car did you jack it up in order to get the jack stands on the pinch welds? I’ve found lots of info for the 8v (MQB) but I can’t find anything on the 8y and the underside of my car looks nothing like the MQB videos.
On the front and rear subframe. Rear you'll see a bolt on the subframe that's behind the rear tire. Front you can see part of the aluminum brackets. Under one of the big bolts
Great job on the install! Some folks recommend replacing the single use bolts and nuts for the install. Curious if you saw the need to swap those or not.
@@BrosFOURRSpeed sounds good. That’s what I thought also. Never had to replace the bolts/nuts on lowering any of my Audis. It was discussed on a couple of the Audi forums for torque to spec bolts/nuts that it’s recommended to replace. Anyway I will be lowering my car soon also. 👍
How long after install (miles) did you do an alignment? I'm about to put in H&R's with spacers and wondering if you let the springs settle before doing an alignment?
I actually haven't got one yet. I need to tho. I'd give it a week or so to let things settle. But we've only driven the car maybe 300 miles since this. Haver been very busy with other cars lately
ON the rear I used part of the subframe. You can see a bit bolt behind the tires bolting the subframe to the chassis. Front I used a part of the subframe as well that was silver and close to the lower control arm point that connects to the chassis
Nice tutorial, i have a 23 S3 8Y, i have planned to install the racingLine lowering springs. Do you have any issue with the adaptive suspensions? also, aren't there any stretch bolts that are one time use? Did you torque everything back to specs? thank you
Hey mate , did you notice any creaking sounds when lowered > I have now tried kw has and eibach sportlines and they Both creaked at stationary or low speed reverse park when rotating the steering wheel , I wonder if h&r are any different , since then I put the car back to stock and the creaking disappeared
Yeah sometimes when I'm backing up I hear a little bit. These even have the rubber covers on the springs. It's not much tho. I even cleaned the bases perfectly.
Ever now and then in slow speed I hear a small creek sound. Ride quality is great tho. Rides like stock, drive modes still work perfect. But the car is tighter in the turns and under hard breaking and accelerating. Great setup overall
Hey guys! Hope you're doing well and it's been a while since we've communicated. I have a question for you. I have my RacingLine lowering springs as well as installed front and rear Drop/End links. Could you please provide me with some guidance/settings for vehicle alignment? My tires are still stock setup with the reverse stagger, and I don't have any wheel spacers. Need to get my baby aligned! Thanks.
Nope. Rides just as solid as stock. But a tad stiffer in the hard turns and under breaking and acceleration. Really helped dial in the handling! No squat either under hard acceleration. So the car feels much more responsive. And looks much better
From what I've found. The big lower bolts need about 50 pounds. The rest are ranging from 20-30 pounds. So honestly, just nice and tight should do the trick. I seem to do a good job matching the torque specs from how it feels when I loosen them to hand tightening. So you can feel it out and tighten them the same amount of pressure you felt when you took them out. And use a torque wrench to double check
I cant seem to get the spring out for some reason, i dont seem to have enough room, how did you remove the spring without it hitting the top where it screws in?
@BrosFOURRSpeed yea, I only have one side lifted and I spent 5 hours trying to remove them, and I couldn't lol, so I will try that and let you know if it works! Thank you brotha!
@@mixwaffles2127 that’s probably your problem! With the other front wheel on the ground, the sway bar is pulling the one in the air up. So you aren’t able to lower that wheel enough. Whenever working on suspension, make sure the fronts are always in the air together. And the rears are always in the air together
Looks great! If it was mine I may consider front and rear strut tower bars for added rigidity and perhaps aftermarket sway bars.
Yeah I've heard a lot of owners talk about doing swaybars. I'll have to look into those along with a strut bar
Have you experienced rubbing on the rear fender guard with 15mm spacers? I had to switch to 10mm to avoid rubbing under load/launch control.
So far no. I’ve launched the car and everything. No rubbing even leaving my driveway
Looks great. The trainer tape measure though lol.
Just a basic tape measure. Seems to do the job
I see you have the pass through socket set link in the description but I swear that top nut on the strut is a 21mm and that set only Goes to 19mm. Correct me if I’m wrong. Nice walkthrough.
I don't remember. But whatever I used fit perfect. There are plenty of pass through socket sets out there with several sizes. So use what fits and if your set goes to 19mm, get a set that has larger sizes
massive thanks for inspiration
im doing spacers and same springs to my car and so far love it
i would like to ask you a question a bit help with springs how do i know which is left or right or springs are same for both sides?
i will be using your video to learn how to do it and im going to play with it ;)
with Regards
Oh nice! They are the same left and right. So pretty simple overall. These ship quick from us! brosfourrspeed.com/parts-%26-merchandise/ols/products/hr-springs-and-coilovers-rs3
@@BrosFOURRSpeed
thanks for reply
to tightening bolts could you tell me the front strut mount to body torque settings for those 3 bolts on top
and for the bottom part of the front strut where it sits
is it 30nm for top and 70nm for bottom bolt?
also is the any other torque important for any other bolts that i need to be aware of ?
thank you for help
@@lukistfan8108 I’m not too sure the exact specs. I just feel it out and do what feels nice and tight. But I probably get all the lower ones around 60 pounds
@@BrosFOURRSpeed
Hi
i have finally done HR springs on my car
and..... OMG i have made mistake
the car looks sooo good lowered but the drive is very hard car bounce on every bumpy road
are you really like your RS3 on HR springs?
Where on the car did you jack it up in order to get the jack stands on the pinch welds? I’ve found lots of info for the 8v (MQB) but I can’t find anything on the 8y and the underside of my car looks nothing like the MQB videos.
On the front and rear subframe. Rear you'll see a bolt on the subframe that's behind the rear tire. Front you can see part of the aluminum brackets. Under one of the big bolts
Great job on the install! Some folks recommend replacing the single use bolts and nuts for the install. Curious if you saw the need to swap those or not.
I never heard anything about that. All the bolts seemed fine to keep using
@@BrosFOURRSpeed sounds good. That’s what I thought also. Never had to replace the bolts/nuts on lowering any of my Audis. It was discussed on a couple of the Audi forums for torque to spec bolts/nuts that it’s recommended to replace. Anyway I will be lowering my car soon also. 👍
How long after install (miles) did you do an alignment? I'm about to put in H&R's with spacers and wondering if you let the springs settle before doing an alignment?
I actually haven't got one yet. I need to tho. I'd give it a week or so to let things settle. But we've only driven the car maybe 300 miles since this. Haver been very busy with other cars lately
I love the finished product, does the one inch lower stance affect speed bumps or parking curbs? Do you still have clearance without rubbing?
I have plenty of clearance. Never scraped on anything so far and our driveway has a steep curb. So it's a great setup!
Follow up question, what jack point did you use u see the car to put the jack stands on the pinch welds?
ON the rear I used part of the subframe. You can see a bit bolt behind the tires bolting the subframe to the chassis. Front I used a part of the subframe as well that was silver and close to the lower control arm point that connects to the chassis
a month on now, did you get any additional drop from the springs settling, or its still pretty much at the same ride height on this clip ?
Actually not really. Still seems to be the same. Great setup for sure!
Nice tutorial, i have a 23 S3 8Y, i have planned to install the racingLine lowering springs.
Do you have any issue with the adaptive suspensions? also, aren't there any stretch bolts that are one time use? Did you torque everything back to specs? thank you
I torques everything to spec and things seem good. I don't think any are one time use. Suspension all works as it should
Hey mate , did you notice any creaking sounds when lowered > I have now tried kw has and eibach sportlines and they Both creaked at stationary or low speed reverse park when rotating the steering wheel , I wonder if h&r are any different , since then I put the car back to stock and the creaking disappeared
Yeah sometimes when I'm backing up I hear a little bit. These even have the rubber covers on the springs. It's not much tho. I even cleaned the bases perfectly.
👍
Love the upgrade!
I heard the H and R springs made it a pogo stick? Can you comment on the ride quality?
Ever now and then in slow speed I hear a small creek sound. Ride quality is great tho. Rides like stock, drive modes still work perfect. But the car is tighter in the turns and under hard breaking and accelerating. Great setup overall
Hey guys! Hope you're doing well and it's been a while since we've communicated. I have a question for you. I have my RacingLine lowering springs as well as installed front and rear Drop/End links. Could you please provide me with some guidance/settings for vehicle alignment? My tires are still stock setup with the reverse stagger, and I don't have any wheel spacers. Need to get my baby aligned! Thanks.
I just had them aligned as close to factory specs as they could. Any shop should have the RS3 specs in their software. So they just did that
Awesome. Thank you. Did you use a drive-up/on alignment machine, or something else?
Yeah a normal alignment rack at a shop. ruclips.net/video/MJK8c0pBKPs/видео.html
Here's an old video of our Tacoma. But this exact alignment rack
Thank you.
What are your thoughts on 034motorsports hamsters for the front end of our car?
Any negatives to the springs...bouncy, noisy, etc?
Nope. Rides just as solid as stock. But a tad stiffer in the hard turns and under breaking and acceleration. Really helped dial in the handling! No squat either under hard acceleration. So the car feels much more responsive. And looks much better
@@BrosFOURRSpeed can't wait to get my RS3
Is there a torque spec on the suspension bolts?
From what I've found. The big lower bolts need about 50 pounds. The rest are ranging from 20-30 pounds. So honestly, just nice and tight should do the trick. I seem to do a good job matching the torque specs from how it feels when I loosen them to hand tightening. So you can feel it out and tighten them the same amount of pressure you felt when you took them out. And use a torque wrench to double check
Love the video and the car. Wish you could use metric though.
Oh thanks! We use inches for the most part in the USA. For wheel spacers I used mm. But ride height, inches works well
I cant seem to get the spring out for some reason, i dont seem to have enough room, how did you remove the spring without it hitting the top where it screws in?
For the front? Push down on the rotor assembly while you lift the strut out. Might need a second person to stand on the hub to give you the room
@@BrosFOURRSpeed did you need to have the car lifted on both sides for weight balance? Or at least to for easement of removing the springs?
@@mixwaffles2127 I did the fronts together and the rears together. So the entire front should be lifted in the air to do them
@BrosFOURRSpeed yea, I only have one side lifted and I spent 5 hours trying to remove them, and I couldn't lol, so I will try that and let you know if it works! Thank you brotha!
@@mixwaffles2127 that’s probably your problem! With the other front wheel on the ground, the sway bar is pulling the one in the air up. So you aren’t able to lower that wheel enough. Whenever working on suspension, make sure the fronts are always in the air together. And the rears are always in the air together