The most ironic thing about saying that LA is full of "industry plants" is that the most iconic plant in LA (Palm Tree) is literally a transplant and was put there to make the city look cool (iirc).
In apparel design school we learned that if only part of the labor was done stateside, brands could legally put 'made in USA' labels in the garments. In the 80s, 90s, and early 2000's many brands would cut their fabrics in the US, then stitch them in overseas sweatshops. So many so-called 'made in USA' vintage garments....aren't telling the whole story. I'm guessing that's the case here too.
@@Shadchanfreude definitely - it’s just so clearly incorrect, in my opinion. Like the logic would be like “okay I ordered a bunch of watches off AliExpress, engraved my name into them in my studio in the USA, so now I can say they’re made in USA watches.” Everyone recognizes that would not be acceptable.
I've looked into it and it's actually quite strict now. By California law the foreign materials or parts must not exceed five percent of the final wholesale value of the merchandise. FTC guidelines are a bit more vague, stating that "all or virtually all" of the labor and materials in the product are domestic, but general rule of thumb it seems is also no more than around 5% (in certain cases 10%) of the wholesale value can come from imported materials/labor. But there probably are some tricks and loopholes that would allow you to slap a "Made in the USA" label while not complying with the FTC guidelines in good faith. And, of course, you can always just lie and hope that by the time FTC catches up with you, if it ever does catch up with you, you made enough profit for paying the fines for mislabeling your garments to be economically justifiable.
In continuation of the comment above. I wonder if you imported dirt cheap poor quality Chinese cotton and made a garment out of it in the US, using US manufacturing facilities and US labor, would you be able to slap a "Made in the USA' label on it? Since the the vast majority of the final value of your garment would be comprised of high cost of US labor and high cost of US manufacturing. Surely in that situation the percentage that your dirt cheap Chinese cotton contributes to the final value of the garment would be tiny, so you would be in compliance with FTC guidelines. Or do they also look at something else besides the percentage of wholesale value when determining that?
This happens nowadays as well, especially in the automotive industry. There’s a reason many U.S automakers claim “Assembled in the U.S” not “Made in the U.S.” Many automakers (not just U.S manufacturers) will ship vehicles that’s are practically 99% done to the U.S to avoid tariffs on completed products. Finishing the car in the U.S technically allows it to be labeled as “Assembled in the U.S”
Completely opposite in my view. The details of what makes each garment special are too subtle but you perceive the brand overall as obvious due to the Migos and other rappers who used to wear it.
@kirbysaurus5670 it's nothing to do with rappers, It's the fact that it's litterally a plain white tee or a pair of jeans that have random paint splattered on them with some added bold font. It's nothing. Did they try? That's not designing, thats merchandising. Nothing new was created, instead you were given the same garment patterns you've seen for years that have been re-skinned to what's hype. Nothing I've seen from their collections pushes a single boundary. They're not making the future, they're making an easily marketable version of the past. (They do however occasionally make something inspired and unique but I'm talking 85% of the brand being just merch)
@@white5523 Well this is where you sound ridiculous and completely disconnected. You not making the effort to even check the brand's offering shows that your only perception is based on you seeing famous people wearing their most basic designs.
All these brands are a symptom of LA being a manufacturing hub that genuinely creative people tend to leave. An almost identical parallel exists in Milan. You have a ton of factories but few real designers. Paris and London tend to suck them all up like New York does with LA. So what happens is anyone can start a brand or be put in charge of a brand or be given a brand in these cities. Because there’s so many factories they all end up having lots of downtime. So they’re always looking to sign and gamble on new designers. If one of these brands flops it’s nbd because it’s not like the factory had other work to do anyway. Funnily enough it’s the opposite in cities like NYC or Paris. They have too many designers and not enough factories. No one in those cities is getting hooked up with cushy 360 manufacturing contracts. You have to seriously fight and so only the strong tend to survive. That’s why they don’t produce anywhere near as many whack brands. So it’s not really an industry plant thing. It’s more like LA has the manufacturing capability to shit out 500 new brands every year and so factories will try to fill up their calendars by constantly signing new brands. Regardless of if they’re good or not. If there’s even a slight chance they might be a hit for a year or two the factory will have their calendar booked out and it’ll be worth the gamble. London or NYC might only be able to put out 50 new brands a year so the factories and investors there aren’t desperate to sign new designers. Their schedules are packed already. They don’t really need the work, they can actually turn designers down if they think their brand will tank and be gone in a year. For a factory the ultimate W is partnering with a brand that blows up and keeps them booked out year after year. LA has tons of factories so they’ll gamble on anything. Milan is the exact European mirror. Just an endless parade of extremely whack new brands every year but there’s just too many factories and not enough designers there, same as LA.
Bro it’s not the 90s anymore. The world is global. I’m from the UK and produce in Italy on a made to order basis with luxury fabrics from British and Italian mills. The contract signing only exists when you’re truly established and it’s done via agencies/creditors who pay the factory on your behalf. Not usually the factory itself.
Haute Couture is actually a legally protected term and only designers approved by the federation of haute couture and fashion can use it. Couture is made to measure, haute couture is made to measure and approved by the FHCF. I reported alice out of boredum.
guardian angel has been around for years. shane and jeremy have collaborators over the years. shane has been behind many projects before and that’s why he’s able to launch to market so fast. he knows production houses, understands how to build brands from scratch, etc. also, LA manufacturing is actually not as expensive as people realize. the problem with LA manufacturing is how long it takes and the low quality sew houses. brands who manufacture in LA aren’t paying double than overseas most the time. you can get 100 cut n sewn, printed, and washed tees for less than $20 per unit. i know this because i’ve done LA manufacturing. truthfully big designers in LA over charge ridiculously because they have to have decent margins when they have stockists. independent brands who do not wholesale can charge realistic prices and make good margins. think about this: retailers buy at 3x the cost of production, then retail those pieces at 3x the wholesale cost. that’s why you see $600 ERD tees. everyone needs to make money.
I'd like to add to this, Shane and Jeremy are biological brothers. Jeremy has piggy backed on Shane's knowledge in fashion. He was a real estate agent before Guardian Angel became a thing. He also sells a lot of Shane's clothes, samples, and PR Package items on his depop lol.
@@iKLuTTcH gotta be nice to have some coattails to ride huh? lol. (This comment is a joke and in no way implies I know anything about the family or their business dealings. Okay ass covered hahaha)
I think the brand owners might think that they can classify the shirt as "made in hollywood" if the shirt is printed in holywood, effectively classifying the blanks as a material used to create the product. Obviously that's super wrong and sketchy, but that might be the logic that they used
I believe Shane moved on from MIDNIGHT STUDIOS because while the clothes were cool, the brand was associated with kids who just got into high fashion because of rocky and carti. It’s almost like the brand we were all getting into in 2016/17 while finding our styles. Consequently a lot of people weren’t buying it because they don’t want to look like fashion noobs.
@@ricardobarajas0 I can buy most of what you’re saying but the problem is if anything they’re leaning into the celeb side more now. So sure maybe the aesthetic is updated and more modern but he’s just gonna run into the same issue again so if he already knows that and has lived through it then it feels like even more of a cash grab than it did before.
Personally I wouldn't rock any of these West Coast brands using the iron cross bc I don't want to be mistaken for a Nazi or templar crusader freak. And yeah the iron cross was in use before 1933 but that's not really my point. When I was younger (like elementary school age) I had a West Coast Choppers t-shirt which I wore to my best friend's house who was Jewish. His mom pulled me aside and calmly explained why the symbol made her uncomfortable and I never wore it again but that's just me. These brands are pretty clearly creatively bankrupt but the iconography just seals in that it's not fly at all IMO.
@@kestrel1917 I hear you and that’s my limit with a lot of these more intentionally aggro graphics. The thing that got me to accept iron crosses without much reservation is that even the most “woke” type civil rights orgs are pretty definitive that the iron crosses shouldn’t be immediately interpreted as a symbol of hate - that it’s become more a a generalized symbol of rebelliousness or outsider status due to biker and punk culture etc. but there are def some things I’ve turned down bc I straight don’t wanna make ppl think I’m a danger to them. For instance, look up the ERD “capitalisme” shirt - whatever the intent, it’s a no for me from a practical perspective
Hey, Guardian Angel is Jeremy Gonzales (Shane's little brother) . This brand has been around since midnight rave & was originally dedicated to their grandmother who was their " guardian angel " ( just wanted to add some context! )
@@LOWluxury no it's okay it's hard to keep track of unless you've been actively following it since like 2018 lol, but I agree even as a fan of Shane & Jeremy Alice did just spring out of nowhere
@@LOWluxuryyou clearly just got into fashion , the shirt I love Jesus was worn a ton back in 2017 & 2018. You just need to STFU and keep your opinions to yourself. You’re clearly some well off white boy trynna pose like you can understand the punk aesthetic.
i think the "made in usa" really just means printed and finished in usa, implying they were screenprinted in hollywood. i have one of the hats and i cant speak on the blank they use because i dont know, but i feel like most of the money is going to the hats and maybe the gloves. id kinda disagree that alice hollywood is an industry plant brand since shane has done well with midnight studios but that comes down to personal opinion i guess. great video and props for not bullshitting
@@1ryanclarkson I appreciate the comment! I swear to you, I hit so many people up trying to get a more positive opinion like this, so thank you for sharing it
Im really glad someone cares as much as me about the state of fashion or just keeps up on whats going on and how clothes are truing into money grab side hustles with no real meaning.
lol This dude is an ERD glazer. ERD was started by a Nepo baby and he used celebrities to promote the brand. His favorite brand is nothing but a money grab💀💀💀
Good video, i have always wondered where these tacky shit us brands come from but makes sense that all these random fashion instagram “celebs“ are scamming the 0 personality people
by default its not something that's bad or good, it's okay-ish black fashion remake, but all interest is killed by overhyping kids, which makes this kids fashion, pretty sure next seasons or something some mass market brands like zara or h&m will have in their kids section some sort of black opium stuff lmao
Because of countless number of internet brands coming and going, people normalized being given subpar quality items, and be fine with them. We have same cases with rappers like Travis Scott and Ye giving totally different merch items compared to what's on their website, to now lying about origin of fabric, etc. On top of that, the same people who got scammed from given worse quality items are the same people defending the brand that consistently scam them. You can't make this shit up.
I think at this point we should promote more jobs to our youth like that fhtv video guys its okay to be a lawyer enginner or a teacher not all of have to be a hustler/entrepreneur .Im blaming Virgil for ts.Anyone who cant make a u stolen graphic/cut shouldn't be allowed to have a fashion brand cause we have way too many 😂
Recently found your channel and I’m so glad I did! I really appreciate the effort that goes into these videos. The topics you select are unique, the information you present is thoroughly researched, and your camera presence makes these videos very engaging and refreshing to wash! Keep up the amazing work, it’s only a matter of time before this channel truly takes off.
bro they printed on the pro club 😂 when you said $50 made in usa shirt was sus, i was thinking they probably printing on LA apparel at least... 1 color screenprint on an LA apparel blank, streetwear brands doing that all day for $50
I’ve been wearing moto/ironcross paraphernalia since grade school. Been knowing wear to source belt buckles that these kids spend 100s on for quarter of the price with better quality. So I laugh with a side eye seeing “high fashion” lifting blue collar motorcycle looks.
Guardian angel is his little bros brand that’s been around for 5+ years. The blind spot design is what got the brand popular because carti wore it multiple times
The only thing cool about these shirts is that they made on a Pro Club. Mandatory shirt for every skater, gangster, stoner, graffiti artist, biker, whiteboys to homies, even the emo kids couldn’t resist a v-neck pro club. It became the meta of the plain white t shirt (plus all other colors)in the early 2000’s. We apologize for all our lame celebrity’s and all the fake bs people go through in LA trying to get famous, or just trying to make a living. LA is way more than that, and u ain’t gonna find it looking at some so called influencers IG page. If “Alice” was an actual Hardcore band or crew or record label that claimed Hollywood maybe this would be dope. Alice In Chains is from Seattle brother.
I spoke to Shane at the pop up they did in NYC and he said Midnight Studios has out outside investors that bought his majority stake and they have final say on everything and thought bothered him so he started Alice
Midnight isn’t doing well if you go to any resell shops around LA like second st or wasteland they are filled with midnight studios you can tell people from the brand are bringing things there to offload probably stock they can’t sell…
Yes, and I do mention that in the video. However, in my opinion that reads as a shady workaround so they can say it without really saying it. Like, what does engineered by mean? Pro club is pretty vague, I wasn’t aware of them as a blank manufacturer before this. When I initially read it I honestly assumed it was part of their whole motocross cosplay thing - like oh this is engineered by our pro motocross team or smth haha
@@VuNguyen-fv5jlso far their brand to me is subpar they’re slowly destroying themselves and maybe so most likely satoshi is a cali based brand so anything he can get in his region/area for promo they will pursue it ngl tho , anyways i had my bro at complexcon proxy the f&f pair “burgundy & checkered” they said before 200$ but when u got there they were pre order + 320$ and we still haven’t received them any proof u need i got also other ina same boat as me .. only way u gotta pair is if u found a raffle then u can get the shoe that day (in your size tho? idk i doubt it ..” he had another brand called thinking different too og apple/steve jobs like gear mainly sneaker- edit also when the green pair released along with his collection they just put the date no time zone no nothing so that’s why a lot of people can’t get them/ resell them for so high it’s like they make themselves somewhat hard to get on purpose but at least it’s not on twosevensaudi level of bs
I got one of their hats a while back and when I tried to put on one of the lighter clips on the brim and the underbrim got torn almost entirely just from me putting on the clips quality is not the best but rocky wore it so it means it’s good right 🤷♂️
Dude made very derivative hats that had appeal and is trying to stretch that success for his brand, but doesn’t put as much money as he does paying influencers to wear his clothes as he does in producing 😅
what is your opinion on gallery dept as a whole? ive always wanted to hear you talk about them because i dont really understand the brand at all and it just feels like a straight up scam, but i think it wouldnt be worth it to make whole video abt it
@@gig2350 agree - I’ll add it to the list. Without having owned any, I would say I rate them more highly than most brands mentioned here - they were kind of early to the miamicore aesthetic and it seems like the dude behind it cares, I think? So I’d say I maybe think of them similar to how I think about Amiri - respect to them for what they’ve built but maybe fueling some trends that aren’t the greatest.
@ josue tomas does seem like an actual artist since he is envolved in quite a lot of other projects that arent nearly as profitable as the gd brand in its own that being said, i havent really seen any crazy or actually inovative pieces coming from gallery dept, although they did bring back older trends like flared jeans and new ones such as paint splattered garments, its mostly just screen printed logos with some minor changes, those are absolutely not worth their price in my opinion some pieces are just showcasing artwork made by tomas, that dont necessarily mean anything but cost 350+. no actual message or anything, they just look cool and vintage it MAY be ok for a brand to sell nothing but a cool vintage aesthetic and charge hundreds of dollars for each piece but the number of fake ass la brands that have emerged since their rise makes their cheer existence not worth it for me (theyre like the mother of all clout chasing meaningless la/miami brands) btw the “stop being racist” thing is an absolutely dog shit way of making a graphic that is intrinsically anti-racist (denim tears owned them in that sense)
@@LOWluxury I like GD and do own a few pieces the quality is great on them. I remember Jouse was talking in an interview back in 2017/18 when everyone was wearing skinny jeans. He said rappers used to come to his shop and say no body would be wearing flared jeans and fast forward to nowadays a lot of brands are coping their flared jeans.
@@LOWluxury i dont think you ever will but id really love to see you talk about gd in video. also looking forward for some willy chavarria content soon
I'm only 7 Minutes into the Video and don'T know if this will get answered throughout the video, but I just need to ask why is the Iron Cross so normalized in modern fashion? And whats the obsession with it? Do you just like the way it looks? There are so many brands using it, Midnight Studios, Vetements, ERD and almost every other "punk" brand thats coming up. Maybe it's because I'm german and I got a different relation to it because of our past but it boggles my mind how people can wear symbols that are related to war as a fashion piece.
the alice stuff is Screen printed in hollywood. the Pro club part is just a ordinary pro club made however they make it. but that’s why they say “made in hollywood” lol basically they use pro club blanks and screen print it on them “in hollywood” definitely a rip for $100 unless you love this shit. pretty much brand x champion (but those are usually decent)
@ i’m kinda surprised that you’re surprised by this tbh 😅 it’s been this way for a bit now, i saw another comment saying it as well but im fairly certain that if half or so, of the items production involves the US, they can say that lol. clearly deceptive and if you really care bout ur garments, it’s worth looking into. i’m guessing since the pro club tee says US fabric and they print them in LA, they prolly thought that was percentage enough to claim it 😌 fashion world has a lot of shady stuff to maximize profits, like Chucks n shit having fabric on the outsoles
What I'm guessing is that Shane somehow lost control of Midnight and started alice back from square one. Therefore, He is gonna start off with basics/accessories before moving onto tailoring or more interesting pieces. Also would explain the quality of the pieces as well. I think shane is a decent designer and will probably pump out better pieces in the future. Nearly all these new designers from the untied states started with just t-shirts and hoodies.
@@elstreetfighter I honestly understand the business rationale but I’m not buying it here. If he’s doing like bottom level streetwear with off the shelf blanks, charge me like 45 bucks tops and we can talk. But also he has all the relationships to do cut and sew. Going DTC with a very basic silhouette and crappy fabric (like what he’s already using via the blanks) is totally doable at a $100 price point. Basically this is a “don’t piss on my head and tell me it’s raining” kinda deal.
Midnight isn’t doing well if you go to any resell shops around LA like second st or wasteland you can tell people from the brand are bringing things there to offload probably stock they can’t sell…
I’m ngl bro just commit and sag those pants, it goes both ways and it looks 10x more funky wearing it that way 💀💀also the belt goes on the bottom layer, but idk you might’ve been trying to troll
You say the quality of the tshirt is comparable to the free tees you get for free from IT cons. My man is an IT dude, and I can assure you the quality of the free shirts he gets aren't THAT bad! That's how truly awful Alice Hollywood is.
It’s literally west coast choppers. I’ve been a midnight studios fan since 2016 and always thrifted WCC it comes off clear. I don’t know if Jesse James lost the patent to WCC in the 2010s or what
Midnight Studios still had the following regardless of a revenue split. Sad to see the brand nonexistent now. I know the 2017 midnight rave stuff went to pacsun recently so I get leaving the brand.
i’m not really sure what your purpose is with this video, but, shane has been around making clothes for over 10 years. he started with a more true streetwear brand named stay dirty, and then transitioned to midnight which was more popular / more collabs etc. after midnight, he started working with the awge team (hence the asap & celeb connections). now he’s trying something new with alice, nonetheless, shane was making clothes long before a lot of the people around now. i cannot vouch for the quality of the clothes cuz i don’t have any but calling him an industry plant is insane. in regards to gallery dept, they also had been around for a while serving as a solid spot for curated levi’s and denim repairs and found their way as a brand. i don’t know why youtubers make these videos talking down about brands and calling people this or that especially when you dont really know the facts and dont state the facts. it’s kind of like bottom of the barrel “journalism”. clothes are an expression, fun, etc its someone getting ideas off if you like it cool and if you dont cool. but anyways, goodluck to all!
Shane is washed tbh, Midnight Studios used to have some really good designs when it started but it honestly just seems like he’s run out of ideas at this point.
I've had this conversation a lot so I'll do the short version. I've been in underground punk my whole life so I'm fully aware what "real" punk is, but I personally am able to separate that from "punk" as a style - derivative from punk music, but these days many, many degrees removed. If you can't make that separation, that's valid and your prerogative.
Fashions a joke now midnight was priced is luxury in so many people now just don’t accept the fact that not everything can be $50 $100 I’ve been buying midnight studio since 2017 but not everybody’s gonna pay $1000 for a bag especially a lot of new gen would rather buy panda by all people want now is hoodies, hats, T-shirts, and sweatpants
I’ll be honest- I kinda adore this specific brand of fashion, it almost encapsulates the climate and decaying capitalist empire thing America has going on right now. (I think @beenslackin is the king of this aesthetic) Also- I’d rather spend my dollars with American upstarts anyway, rather than LVMH, Kering. Authenticity is 99% bullshit from any for-profit clothier anyway.
I agree! You might sense there’s like a lot of disappointment and melancholy in my voice throughout this, because on a surface level I like it. The way they present themselves in their editorial imagery is pretty great. If the pieces had any level of quality to them this would be a positive review where I’d be giving them props for giving kids a cheaper way into this aesthetic.
The most ironic thing about saying that LA is full of "industry plants" is that the most iconic plant in LA (Palm Tree) is literally a transplant and was put there to make the city look cool (iirc).
@@locoattack1210 unexpected comment, love it
Hawaii’s white sand come from Australia and pineapples come from South America . Industry plants are everywhere .
Lol
In apparel design school we learned that if only part of the labor was done stateside, brands could legally put 'made in USA' labels in the garments. In the 80s, 90s, and early 2000's many brands would cut their fabrics in the US, then stitch them in overseas sweatshops. So many so-called 'made in USA' vintage garments....aren't telling the whole story. I'm guessing that's the case here too.
@@Shadchanfreude definitely - it’s just so clearly incorrect, in my opinion. Like the logic would be like “okay I ordered a bunch of watches off AliExpress, engraved my name into them in my studio in the USA, so now I can say they’re made in USA watches.” Everyone recognizes that would not be acceptable.
I've looked into it and it's actually quite strict now. By California law the foreign materials or parts must not exceed five percent of the final wholesale value of the merchandise. FTC guidelines are a bit more vague, stating that "all or virtually all" of the labor and materials in the product are domestic, but general rule of thumb it seems is also no more than around 5% (in certain cases 10%) of the wholesale value can come from imported materials/labor. But there probably are some tricks and loopholes that would allow you to slap a "Made in the USA" label while not complying with the FTC guidelines in good faith. And, of course, you can always just lie and hope that by the time FTC catches up with you, if it ever does catch up with you, you made enough profit for paying the fines for mislabeling your garments to be economically justifiable.
In continuation of the comment above. I wonder if you imported dirt cheap poor quality Chinese cotton and made a garment out of it in the US, using US manufacturing facilities and US labor, would you be able to slap a "Made in the USA' label on it? Since the the vast majority of the final value of your garment would be comprised of high cost of US labor and high cost of US manufacturing. Surely in that situation the percentage that your dirt cheap Chinese cotton contributes to the final value of the garment would be tiny, so you would be in compliance with FTC guidelines. Or do they also look at something else besides the percentage of wholesale value when determining that?
@@Are_you_eyeballing_me this is a very interesting discussion. I think you may have found the loophole right there Lol
This happens nowadays as well, especially in the automotive industry. There’s a reason many U.S automakers claim “Assembled in the U.S” not “Made in the U.S.” Many automakers (not just U.S manufacturers) will ship vehicles that’s are practically 99% done to the U.S to avoid tariffs on completed products. Finishing the car in the U.S technically allows it to be labeled as “Assembled in the U.S”
Finally found a fashion channel that talks about whats cool and not a video essay about whats going on INSTANTLY SUBSCRIBED
Thank god someone mentioned gallery dept. Their entire line is just so uninspired
Completely opposite in my view. The details of what makes each garment special are too subtle but you perceive the brand overall as obvious due to the Migos and other rappers who used to wear it.
@kirbysaurus5670 it's nothing to do with rappers, It's the fact that it's litterally a plain white tee or a pair of jeans that have random paint splattered on them with some added bold font. It's nothing. Did they try? That's not designing, thats merchandising. Nothing new was created, instead you were given the same garment patterns you've seen for years that have been re-skinned to what's hype. Nothing I've seen from their collections pushes a single boundary. They're not making the future, they're making an easily marketable version of the past. (They do however occasionally make something inspired and unique but I'm talking 85% of the brand being just merch)
@@white5523 Well this is where you sound ridiculous and completely disconnected. You not making the effort to even check the brand's offering shows that your only perception is based on you seeing famous people wearing their most basic designs.
@@kirbysaurus5670 bro is getting paid by gallery or owns some 😆 id be coping hard too
shits so mid it's mind blowin that ppl buy it
All these brands are a symptom of LA being a manufacturing hub that genuinely creative people tend to leave. An almost identical parallel exists in Milan. You have a ton of factories but few real designers. Paris and London tend to suck them all up like New York does with LA.
So what happens is anyone can start a brand or be put in charge of a brand or be given a brand in these cities. Because there’s so many factories they all end up having lots of downtime. So they’re always looking to sign and gamble on new designers. If one of these brands flops it’s nbd because it’s not like the factory had other work to do anyway.
Funnily enough it’s the opposite in cities like NYC or Paris. They have too many designers and not enough factories. No one in those cities is getting hooked up with cushy 360 manufacturing contracts. You have to seriously fight and so only the strong tend to survive. That’s why they don’t produce anywhere near as many whack brands.
So it’s not really an industry plant thing. It’s more like LA has the manufacturing capability to shit out 500 new brands every year and so factories will try to fill up their calendars by constantly signing new brands. Regardless of if they’re good or not. If there’s even a slight chance they might be a hit for a year or two the factory will have their calendar booked out and it’ll be worth the gamble.
London or NYC might only be able to put out 50 new brands a year so the factories and investors there aren’t desperate to sign new designers. Their schedules are packed already. They don’t really need the work, they can actually turn designers down if they think their brand will tank and be gone in a year.
For a factory the ultimate W is partnering with a brand that blows up and keeps them booked out year after year. LA has tons of factories so they’ll gamble on anything. Milan is the exact European mirror. Just an endless parade of extremely whack new brands every year but there’s just too many factories and not enough designers there, same as LA.
@@archaics18 love this insight, thank you!
Ewww fashion garment elitism gross
Bro it’s not the 90s anymore. The world is global. I’m from the UK and produce in Italy on a made to order basis with luxury fabrics from British and Italian mills.
The contract signing only exists when you’re truly established and it’s done via agencies/creditors who pay the factory on your behalf. Not usually the factory itself.
Haute Couture is actually a legally protected term and only designers approved by the federation of haute couture and fashion can use it. Couture is made to measure, haute couture is made to measure and approved by the FHCF. I reported alice out of boredum.
lolololollllll this is hilarious
guardian angel has been around for years. shane and jeremy have collaborators over the years. shane has been behind many projects before and that’s why he’s able to launch to market so fast. he knows production houses, understands how to build brands from scratch, etc. also, LA manufacturing is actually not as expensive as people realize. the problem with LA manufacturing is how long it takes and the low quality sew houses. brands who manufacture in LA aren’t paying double than overseas most the time. you can get 100 cut n sewn, printed, and washed tees for less than $20 per unit. i know this because i’ve done LA manufacturing. truthfully big designers in LA over charge ridiculously because they have to have decent margins when they have stockists. independent brands who do not wholesale can charge realistic prices and make good margins. think about this: retailers buy at 3x the cost of production, then retail those pieces at 3x the wholesale cost. that’s why you see $600 ERD tees. everyone needs to make money.
@@campbellcollett thanks for the info. hmu on insta, for real. Would love to pick your brain given your experience - at lowluxuryclothing
not stating this to neglect your points. i think you have great points! i agree with everyone running these clout brands being a problem
I'd like to add to this, Shane and Jeremy are biological brothers. Jeremy has piggy backed on Shane's knowledge in fashion. He was a real estate agent before Guardian Angel became a thing. He also sells a lot of Shane's clothes, samples, and PR Package items on his depop lol.
@@iKLuTTcH gotta be nice to have some coattails to ride huh? lol. (This comment is a joke and in no way implies I know anything about the family or their business dealings. Okay ass covered hahaha)
The ‘hard core’ text looks terrible, because the width of letters is different. Very ‘aliexpress’ feel to it
Los Angeles seems like all their fashion is just low quality clothing with outrageous pricing like the gallery department and others like it.
I think the balenci pants are intended to sag a bit. Meaning the camo at hanging at your waist line and the denim part sagging
It was hard to watch him hike them up like that
I think the brand owners might think that they can classify the shirt as "made in hollywood" if the shirt is printed in holywood, effectively classifying the blanks as a material used to create the product. Obviously that's super wrong and sketchy, but that might be the logic that they used
@ashtmslf2315 not a lawyer whatsoever but I can’t imagine what court would accept that argument. I’d love to see them try tho!
I believe Shane moved on from MIDNIGHT STUDIOS because while the clothes were cool, the brand was associated with kids who just got into high fashion because of rocky and carti.
It’s almost like the brand we were all getting into in 2016/17 while finding our styles.
Consequently a lot of people weren’t buying it because they don’t want to look like fashion noobs.
@@ricardobarajas0 I can buy most of what you’re saying but the problem is if anything they’re leaning into the celeb side more now. So sure maybe the aesthetic is updated and more modern but he’s just gonna run into the same issue again so if he already knows that and has lived through it then it feels like even more of a cash grab than it did before.
and c2h4 or any of the EJDER brands
That pro club blank is only $7!! And they're selling it for 98?? Are u shittin' me??🤣
Not going to lie, most of this just sounds like hate. (To me)
If you don’t like, don’t buy it. Let Shane get his bag and move on about ya business.
“Gallery Department Problem” Good bless. I thought I was the only one. So grateful to have found this channel 🔥
everybody leeches off of crust punk and goth, damn
Personally I wouldn't rock any of these West Coast brands using the iron cross bc I don't want to be mistaken for a Nazi or templar crusader freak. And yeah the iron cross was in use before 1933 but that's not really my point. When I was younger (like elementary school age) I had a West Coast Choppers t-shirt which I wore to my best friend's house who was Jewish. His mom pulled me aside and calmly explained why the symbol made her uncomfortable and I never wore it again but that's just me. These brands are pretty clearly creatively bankrupt but the iconography just seals in that it's not fly at all IMO.
@@kestrel1917 I hear you and that’s my limit with a lot of these more intentionally aggro graphics. The thing that got me to accept iron crosses without much reservation is that even the most “woke” type civil rights orgs are pretty definitive that the iron crosses shouldn’t be immediately interpreted as a symbol of hate - that it’s become more a a generalized symbol of rebelliousness or outsider status due to biker and punk culture etc. but there are def some things I’ve turned down bc I straight don’t wanna make ppl think I’m a danger to them. For instance, look up the ERD “capitalisme” shirt - whatever the intent, it’s a no for me from a practical perspective
@@LOWluxury Thanks for the response man you raise great points.
Hey, Guardian Angel is Jeremy Gonzales (Shane's little brother) . This brand has been around since midnight rave & was originally dedicated to their grandmother who was their " guardian angel " ( just wanted to add some context! )
@@Dior2k yeah after watching the comments come in id say this was my biggest mistake in the video. My b, everyone!
@@LOWluxury no it's okay it's hard to keep track of unless you've been actively following it since like 2018 lol, but I agree even as a fan of Shane & Jeremy Alice did just spring out of nowhere
@@LOWluxuryyou clearly just got into fashion , the shirt I love Jesus was worn a ton back in 2017 & 2018. You just need to STFU and keep your opinions to yourself.
You’re clearly some well off white boy trynna pose like you can understand the punk aesthetic.
Enjoyed the video man, this space needs this degree of honesty, refreshing
The designs of those Hollywood industry plants are so uninspired and wack, really give me those “aliexpress shein y2k goth” vibes.
i think the "made in usa" really just means printed and finished in usa, implying they were screenprinted in hollywood. i have one of the hats and i cant speak on the blank they use because i dont know, but i feel like most of the money is going to the hats and maybe the gloves. id kinda disagree that alice hollywood is an industry plant brand since shane has done well with midnight studios but that comes down to personal opinion i guess. great video and props for not bullshitting
word !!!!
@@1ryanclarkson I appreciate the comment! I swear to you, I hit so many people up trying to get a more positive opinion like this, so thank you for sharing it
@@LOWluxury *coughs in made in Italy*
Im really glad someone cares as much as me about the state of fashion or just keeps up on whats going on and how clothes are truing into money grab side hustles with no real meaning.
Appreciate you! Someday I'll get a chance to peep your stuff :)
@@LOWluxury Ye would love to send you the bomber I showed u
@@LOWluxury Or a custom garment might be more fun more it more to your style
@@NewKidsRunTheWorld whatever you think makes sense homie, I’m into it!
lol This dude is an ERD glazer. ERD was started by a Nepo baby and he used celebrities to promote the brand. His favorite brand is nothing but a money grab💀💀💀
Good video, i have always wondered where these tacky shit us brands come from but makes sense that all these random fashion instagram “celebs“ are scamming the 0 personality people
god i hate opium adjacent fashion
by default its not something that's bad or good, it's okay-ish black fashion remake, but all interest is killed by overhyping kids, which makes this kids fashion, pretty sure next seasons or something some mass market brands like zara or h&m will have in their kids section some sort of black opium stuff lmao
Opening statement on point lol, can confirm from living here. Applies to every industry tho
So glad to hear this I fully agree with this that’s why I’m studying the greats so my design process doesn’t seem fake or vague
keep at it, stay true, sometimes small and getting by is better than big and inauthentic
the lighter caps were used by Raf Simons even earlier, and obviously even before that Margiela already did.
Because of countless number of internet brands coming and going, people normalized being given subpar quality items, and be fine with them. We have same cases with rappers like Travis Scott and Ye giving totally different merch items compared to what's on their website, to now lying about origin of fabric, etc. On top of that, the same people who got scammed from given worse quality items are the same people defending the brand that consistently scam them. You can't make this shit up.
I think at this point we should promote more jobs to our youth like that fhtv video guys its okay to be a lawyer enginner or a teacher not all of have to be a hustler/entrepreneur .Im blaming Virgil for ts.Anyone who cant make a u stolen graphic/cut shouldn't be allowed to have a fashion brand cause we have way too many 😂
Recently found your channel and I’m so glad I did! I really appreciate the effort that goes into these videos. The topics you select are unique, the information you present is thoroughly researched, and your camera presence makes these videos very engaging and refreshing to wash! Keep up the amazing work, it’s only a matter of time before this channel truly takes off.
Thanks so so much, that means a lot! 🙏
The final fit at the end had me laughing out loud.
bro they printed on the pro club 😂 when you said $50 made in usa shirt was sus, i was thinking they probably printing on LA apparel at least... 1 color screenprint on an LA apparel blank, streetwear brands doing that all day for $50
Why do you feel the need to make your underwear cameos... while this one is almost a minute.
@@ShawnSpivey bc I think it’s funny when people comment scared of the willy
why are you buying a hat with lighter caps just do it yourself
I’ve been wearing moto/ironcross paraphernalia since grade school. Been knowing wear to source belt buckles that these kids spend 100s on for quarter of the price with better quality. So I laugh with a side eye seeing “high fashion” lifting blue collar motorcycle looks.
As someone who owns some Alice pieces. This was interesting but still cool
shane breaking edge with this biker-bunny swag and you're hating? wowww..
It’s definitely reading to me as a start up from scratch like Kanye did with YZY after the collabs fell through.
If muska is flexing your brand you gotta be doing at least something right
"But it's *(insert fashion label name here)* though..."
Guardian angel is his little bros brand that’s been around for 5+ years. The blind spot design is what got the brand popular because carti wore it multiple times
The only thing cool about these shirts is that they made on a Pro Club. Mandatory shirt for every skater, gangster, stoner, graffiti artist, biker, whiteboys to homies, even the emo kids couldn’t resist a v-neck pro club. It became the meta of the plain white t shirt (plus all other colors)in the early 2000’s. We apologize for all our lame celebrity’s and all the fake bs people go through in LA trying to get famous, or just trying to make a living. LA is way more than that, and u ain’t gonna find it looking at some so called influencers IG page. If “Alice” was an actual Hardcore band or crew or record label that claimed Hollywood maybe this would be dope. Alice In Chains is from Seattle brother.
Loved every second 🤞🏽🔥
Pro clubs are an la staple they’re a good shirt don’t hate on them for Alice mistakes
First saw Muska rockin the hat and thought it was a WCC hat lol. Glad this popped up on my feed
Shane Gonzales is super connected in the hip hop scene. He leveraged that to jump his second brand fast.
I spoke to Shane at the pop up they did in NYC and he said Midnight Studios has out outside investors that bought his majority stake and they have final say on everything and thought bothered him so he started Alice
yoooooo i basically called it then lol, love it
Pro club is extremely popular in Mexican American urban fashion lol
haute coutuah
im cryin
This video deserves way more views and likes damn
Do you you have videos of brands with good quality and ones you like. I like how you go into depth. This helps as a brand owner.
Bro everyone is using a sweat shop in Cali. It’s a business we’re running
Midnight isn’t doing well if you go to any resell shops around LA like second st or wasteland they are filled with midnight studios you can tell people from the brand are bringing things there to offload probably stock they can’t sell…
Bro, pull those pants DOWN.
Other than that, great video, i’ve seen brands like that vandalizing for a long time now
Sadly, the product listing does say “engineered by Pro Club”
Yes, and I do mention that in the video. However, in my opinion that reads as a shady workaround so they can say it without really saying it. Like, what does engineered by mean? Pro club is pretty vague, I wasn’t aware of them as a blank manufacturer before this. When I initially read it I honestly assumed it was part of their whole motocross cosplay thing - like oh this is engineered by our pro motocross team or smth haha
satoshi nakamoto is george robertson but u didn’t hear that from me, … also do aris tatalovich, project g/r, and mowalola 👀
Is he buddy buddy with people at SVRN? Because that merchant is pushing satoshi hard
@@VuNguyen-fv5jlso far their brand to me is subpar they’re slowly destroying themselves and maybe so most likely satoshi is a cali based brand so anything he can get in his region/area for promo they will pursue it ngl tho , anyways i had my bro at complexcon proxy the f&f pair “burgundy & checkered” they said before 200$ but when u got there they were pre order + 320$ and we still haven’t received them any proof u need i got also other ina same boat as me .. only way u gotta pair is if u found a raffle then u can get the shoe that day (in your size tho? idk i doubt it ..” he had another brand called thinking different too og apple/steve jobs like gear mainly sneaker- edit also when the green pair released along with his collection they just put the date no time zone no nothing so that’s why a lot of people can’t get them/ resell them for so high it’s like they make themselves somewhat hard to get on purpose but at least it’s not on twosevensaudi level of bs
An iron cross is a positive?? 😬 idk idk i just dont know chief
LMFAOOO same shjt I said when I got that tee felt like I got scammed outta 100 bucks
@@sircartier_ not surprised dude, not surprised
I got one of their hats a while back and when I tried to put on one of the lighter clips on the brim and the underbrim got torn almost entirely just from me putting on the clips quality is not the best but rocky wore it so it means it’s good right 🤷♂️
Alice has better T-shirt quality than Chrome Hearts and does it reversed which is super dope
Your handle suggets this is not a great take lmao
Dude made very derivative hats that had appeal and is trying to stretch that success for his brand, but doesn’t put as much money as he does paying influencers to wear his clothes as he does in producing 😅
what is your opinion on gallery dept as a whole? ive always wanted to hear you talk about them because i dont really understand the brand at all and it just feels like a straight up scam, but i think it wouldnt be worth it to make whole video abt it
@@gig2350 agree - I’ll add it to the list. Without having owned any, I would say I rate them more highly than most brands mentioned here - they were kind of early to the miamicore aesthetic and it seems like the dude behind it cares, I think? So I’d say I maybe think of them similar to how I think about Amiri - respect to them for what they’ve built but maybe fueling some trends that aren’t the greatest.
@ josue tomas does seem like an actual artist since he is envolved in quite a lot of other projects that arent nearly as profitable as the gd brand in its own
that being said, i havent really seen any crazy or actually inovative pieces coming from gallery dept, although they did bring back older trends like flared jeans and new ones such as paint splattered garments, its mostly just screen printed logos with some minor changes, those are absolutely not worth their price in my opinion
some pieces are just showcasing artwork made by tomas, that dont necessarily mean anything but cost 350+. no actual message or anything, they just look cool and vintage
it MAY be ok for a brand to sell nothing but a cool vintage aesthetic and charge hundreds of dollars for each piece but the number of fake ass la brands that have emerged since their rise makes their cheer existence not worth it for me (theyre like the mother of all clout chasing meaningless la/miami brands)
btw the “stop being racist” thing is an absolutely dog shit way of making a graphic that is intrinsically anti-racist (denim tears owned them in that sense)
@@gig2350 IMO Willy Chavarria is doing the best outwardly left-wing fashion in the US right now
@@LOWluxury I like GD and do own a few pieces the quality is great on them. I remember Jouse was talking in an interview back in 2017/18 when everyone was wearing skinny jeans. He said rappers used to come to his shop and say no body would be wearing flared jeans and fast forward to nowadays a lot of brands are coping their flared jeans.
@@LOWluxury i dont think you ever will but id really love to see you talk about gd in video. also looking forward for some willy chavarria content soon
I'm only 7 Minutes into the Video and don'T know if this will get answered throughout the video, but I just need to ask why is the Iron Cross so normalized in modern fashion? And whats the obsession with it? Do you just like the way it looks? There are so many brands using it, Midnight Studios, Vetements, ERD and almost every other "punk" brand thats coming up. Maybe it's because I'm german and I got a different relation to it because of our past but it boggles my mind how people can wear symbols that are related to war as a fashion piece.
one of the hardest to swallow fits of 2024
the alice stuff is Screen printed in hollywood. the Pro club part is just a ordinary pro club made however they make it.
but that’s why they say “made in hollywood” lol basically they use pro club blanks and screen print it on them “in hollywood”
definitely a rip for $100 unless you love this shit.
pretty much brand x champion (but those are usually decent)
Covered it elsewhere but I'd be real real surprised if the FTC agreed with that definition.
@ i’m kinda surprised that you’re surprised by this tbh 😅 it’s been this way for a bit now, i saw another comment saying it as well but im fairly certain that if half or so, of the items production involves the US, they can say that lol. clearly deceptive and if you really care bout ur garments, it’s worth looking into. i’m guessing since the pro club tee says US fabric and they print them in LA, they prolly thought that was percentage enough to claim it 😌
fashion world has a lot of shady stuff to maximize profits, like Chucks n shit having fabric on the outsoles
Los Angles is a paradise! people are just played out... lol
The buckle cap at 28:46 was tumbled
What I'm guessing is that Shane somehow lost control of Midnight and started alice back from square one. Therefore, He is gonna start off with basics/accessories before moving onto tailoring or more interesting pieces. Also would explain the quality of the pieces as well. I think shane is a decent designer and will probably pump out better pieces in the future. Nearly all these new designers from the untied states started with just t-shirts and hoodies.
@@elstreetfighter I honestly understand the business rationale but I’m not buying it here. If he’s doing like bottom level streetwear with off the shelf blanks, charge me like 45 bucks tops and we can talk. But also he has all the relationships to do cut and sew. Going DTC with a very basic silhouette and crappy fabric (like what he’s already using via the blanks) is totally doable at a $100 price point. Basically this is a “don’t piss on my head and tell me it’s raining” kinda deal.
Jesse Pinkman going off
whats your take on palm angels? i dont like them
You're not smoking nearly enough cigarettes to be into this kind of stuff man
look closely in the fit section before i put the shirt on and you'll probably see my nicotine patch. does that count?
@@LOWluxury Are you familiar with wojaks friend, zoomer?
first video ive seen of u i love how you talk!! hope you get big :)
Midnight isn’t doing well if you go to any resell shops around LA like second st or wasteland you can tell people from the brand are bringing things there to offload probably stock they can’t sell…
this is so real LMAO - an LA NAtive. it's oversaturated truly. this video has me dying fr 😆
Make a vid on marking distance. Basically same ethos
You clearly know nothing. And what you’re talking about makes no sense. Put some respect on Luka and James
earned my sub like 90 seconds in🔥
I’m ngl bro just commit and sag those pants, it goes both ways and it looks 10x more funky wearing it that way 💀💀also the belt goes on the bottom layer, but idk you might’ve been trying to troll
Hollywood fashion is on par with its politics.
You can zip henrys jeans when you finish
31:55 is the best part of the whole video
😂😂😂😂... I'm literally turning into a zombie after this 💀
I was against the pro club slander till I heard the price 😂 as a blank they good for the price but 95???
dude yeah if you’re a scrappy up and coming streetwear brand and you wanna use off the shelf blanks go for it, but $95 is wild
@ if the tee was 25 it’d make slightly more sense but the screen printing looks worse than the ramate cholo tees that sell for 15 using similar blanks
You say the quality of the tshirt is comparable to the free tees you get for free from IT cons. My man is an IT dude, and I can assure you the quality of the free shirts he gets aren't THAT bad! That's how truly awful Alice Hollywood is.
It’s literally west coast choppers. I’ve been a midnight studios fan since 2016 and always thrifted WCC it comes off clear. I don’t know if Jesse James lost the patent to WCC in the 2010s or what
Midnight Studios still had the following regardless of a revenue split. Sad to see the brand nonexistent now. I know the 2017 midnight rave stuff went to pacsun recently so I get leaving the brand.
Great video once again… I too nearly got fooled into buying stuff from Alice.. thankful for this video
Yeah, LA is a land of sharks. Forget dog-eat-dog. You make one tiny mistake, you’ll be taken advantage of and you’re goin down HARD.
My bro blazzy sent me here
Dude I replayed the vid like three times just so I could see that lineup of Rocky, Offset, Ken Carson, and fucking Chad Muska 😂😂😂😂😂😂
yo muska wearing it was what got me to finally check them out in more depth, that's how much i love chad muska
@ lmfaoo respect dude, he’s top 5 swaggiest white dudes ever
that shirt is brutal
i’m not really sure what your purpose is with this video, but, shane has been around making clothes for over 10 years.
he started with a more true streetwear brand named stay dirty, and then transitioned to midnight which was more popular / more collabs etc.
after midnight, he started working with the awge team (hence the asap & celeb connections).
now he’s trying something new with alice, nonetheless, shane was making clothes long before a lot of the people around now.
i cannot vouch for the quality of the clothes cuz i don’t have any but calling him an industry plant is insane.
in regards to gallery dept, they also had been around for a while serving as a solid spot for curated levi’s and denim repairs and found their way as a brand.
i don’t know why youtubers make these videos talking down about brands and calling people this or that especially when you dont really know the facts and dont state the facts.
it’s kind of like bottom of the barrel “journalism”.
clothes are an expression, fun, etc its someone getting ideas off if you like it cool and if you dont cool.
but anyways, goodluck to all!
my purpose ain't mysterious, I'm advocating for better products, no more no less.
gaurdian angel is not a new brand, been around for atleast 5 years
s r studios gotta be right up there w the rest of them mid brands
The Tag isnt an original idea, Margiela did the Same with the eastpak collaboration. And btw nice Video, watch a lot of ur vids lately
Shane is washed tbh, Midnight Studios used to have some really good designs when it started but it honestly just seems like he’s run out of ideas at this point.
punk high fashion is not a thing it sounds so stupid
I've had this conversation a lot so I'll do the short version. I've been in underground punk my whole life so I'm fully aware what "real" punk is, but I personally am able to separate that from "punk" as a style - derivative from punk music, but these days many, many degrees removed. If you can't make that separation, that's valid and your prerogative.
Great information bro thank you 🔥👁️
Fashions a joke now midnight was priced is luxury in so many people now just don’t accept the fact that not everything can be $50 $100 I’ve been buying midnight studio since 2017 but not everybody’s gonna pay $1000 for a bag especially a lot of new gen would rather buy panda by all people want now is hoodies, hats, T-shirts, and sweatpants
I’ll be honest- I kinda adore this specific brand of fashion, it almost encapsulates the climate and decaying capitalist empire thing America has going on right now. (I think @beenslackin is the king of this aesthetic)
Also- I’d rather spend my dollars with American upstarts anyway, rather than LVMH, Kering. Authenticity is 99% bullshit from any for-profit clothier anyway.
I agree! You might sense there’s like a lot of disappointment and melancholy in my voice throughout this, because on a surface level I like it. The way they present themselves in their editorial imagery is pretty great. If the pieces had any level of quality to them this would be a positive review where I’d be giving them props for giving kids a cheaper way into this aesthetic.
@*Younglord* more precisely, beenslackin is a hue of something else entirely
@@LOWluxurysuper valid critique
street wear brands blatantly steals so much shit from the alt scene its insane
I got midnight studios tee before and trust that was the last time
@@johnjohnkim4218 hahahaha heard
@heightenedsense I think is LA based, their work is phenomonal like their transparent leather pants and jacket