Could you enlighten as to what the exact focusing problem was? I just received one of these lenses from a large east camera store that was supposed to in excellent used condition. I have discovered that if the lens allowed to focus to infinity, it behaves as if it has lost all electrical contact with the camera. The focus area on the camera will blink red and I lose electronic control of the aperture. If I engage the manual focus clutch, move the lens away from infinity, and reengage it for auto focus, it will behave perfect until it hits infinity again. I have a feeling there is an issue with the encoder contacts that you show us how to clean in this video. I really appreciate these videos. A few days ago I successfully cleaned oily aperture blades on 35mm f/AF-D and saved over $200 off the price of buying a brand new lens.
Thank's Jon, and great that my small film's can help you and others to fix there expensive cameras and lenses, and of course save a lot's of money and time, and at the same time learn how the thing's working. About the lens, It look's like my lens work's as it should, but it has been used very hard, I think it's therefor the focus circuit board was so much worn. The aperture is also working correct. But also, the gear is a bit noisy, so I will lubricate the gear theeth wheels with some light grease "Loctite 8106", I think it will much better. I have try the way you describe about your lens and the infinity issue, but I couldn't get my lens to not working, so, I think I found the solution about the focus problem in my lens. Cheers Kenneth
Hi Jon, I have a 105/2.8 AF micro with the same 'strange'AF-issue at infinity. I am wondering if you could solve the problem and if so what did you do ? Thanks, Toon
I bought that lens from Adorama and subsequently contacted them about the issue where it was sent back for repair. It came back to me with the same problem! If I just barely took it off infinity focus, it would function correctly. I really think it's simply dirty contacts in the encoder assembly. I ended up returning it and getting a Tokina 100 f/2.8 and took advantage of the $20 mail-in rebate. That Tokina is amazing.
Thanks for your fast and clear answer. I did take a look inside the lens, but the contacts are clear; it looks like the AF-contact go (just) beyond reach or just 'over the edge'; I am gonna take another look and move the contacts a little. And indeed the Tokina ia (also) a great performer; I recently bought the 70-180mm micro and that's an amazing lens (and therefore the repaired 105 is for sale).
Yes Richard, I had just got a used HD camera so the picture quality in my will be much better. It's a different way to make film's about repair things and at the same time tell people how to do the repair. But I will still continue to with my "motion-lapse film, it all depeding what I will show, sometimes it's good to keep it simple and without any sound. Greetings and Happy New year from Kenneth in Denmark
Very late to this party. You don’t show how to remove the actual optics. I’ve got some fungus on mine. Any chance you can show how to access all the optical elements?
This without a doubt the best how to video - it's like standing right by your work bench, Thanks! But I'm stuck after several attempts NEED HELP PLEASY -) I can't get over the problem of the aperture ring not actually opening the diaphragm - EXACTLY as it first happened in your video at 40:17. You then fixed it! But I cannot see/figure out what you did exactly. That pin that you stipulate must fit inthe recess of the aperture ring (on inside), should it open the aperture if moved with to the right with finger/prod even before installing the plastic aperture ring? Mine just moves with no effect on aperture - it says at 32 Is something else wrong? I'm indebted to you for the video already, and will be even more deeply so if you can help me get out of this fail-and-fail loop. Don't make go to a pinhole :-) casey
wal kardana Hi, I can see your point, but I think the other film I have made about this lens, about working with the Aperture blades will show it much better, the link is here: ruclips.net/video/MGDJom5zSfs/видео.html Hope it can help you. Greetings Kenneth
Thank you Kenneth! That is a great video indeed! But what really guided me was your Karma sitting on my shoulder and giving me a helpful nudge now and again! But seriously, your style of instructing is totally exemplary! And a special thank you for replying to my desperate cry for help! casey
Hello Kenneth: After dismantling and mantling the back end of the lens several times, all seems good except the smallest aperture looks too big - as if the diaphragm is not closing down to its designed maximum travel i.e. to the smallest opening. Also, stopping down from wide open whilst peering at the lens whilst off camera, it takes the aperture ring to move to almost f5.6 before a movement of the diaphragm blades is noticeable. It seems as if the diaphragm travel is starting too late, sort of thing. If you are able to give me a hint it would be awesome! Best Regards, casey
If you look in the other film, ruclips.net/video/MGDJom5zSfs/видео.html about 42:19 - 42:23, the little black plastic thing has to sit correct. If not, I would guess that the problem is there. Also check that the pin from the bajonet goes correct into the aperture system, when you move the aperture pin on the bajonet, it should fully open the aperture blades and when release it, it should close the minimum aperture that mean 32. hope it can help you. Cheers Kenneth
Great video. Did it fix the problem with focus moving when you turn the focus ring in A mode? And just to let you know the black screw on the bajonet doubles as index dot to make it easier to attach the lens to the camera so it should go to the right hole (90° clockwise from lens locking groove). Keep up good work.
Hi, I am also assembling this lens now, and I see that you did not assemble the aperture control correctly, you did not insert the vertical rod into the groove inside the lens, but left it in front of the aperture, so when the aperture is open, you have a locked control lever. Do you think it should be so?
I checked it at 70-210 4-5.6 it is also blocked there, and at 35-70 3.3-4.5 it walks freely with the diaphragm closed. Perhaps because of this setting, the diaphragm will not close to f32. But I will probably do as you do, because it is simply impossible to insert this rod into the groove without long and difficult attempts.
What was the issue exactly??? I have the same lens and it backfocuses badly (so bad in fact, that I can't adjust for it via AF fine-adjust). Would this fix it?
Ha ha Clarty :-), I can image how it would see and sound :-)..., GREAT film. The only problem is, how to pay enough money for the music.... Greetings from Kenneth
ah well, we can't have everything :) I love your videos by the way, they bring a little jot into my life, and I hope you never stop making them. Cheers Kenneth, George UK
When I screw back the bayonet mount, the aperture ring gets too tight. The small screw and everything else seems to be in the right place. Is there any trick to it?
Be very sure to set the aperture ring correct so it go on to the little tap at the metal ring, look at 41:50. Check also the bajonet has been put in, look at 42:04 - 44:14 , in the correct order, and the gear sit correct.
Dear Sir, could you please do a tutorial about cleaning fungus of elements of this lens, i want to clean it by myself. thank you!
Could you enlighten as to what the exact focusing problem was? I just received one of these lenses from a large east camera store that was supposed to in excellent used condition. I have discovered that if the lens allowed to focus to infinity, it behaves as if it has lost all electrical contact with the camera. The focus area on the camera will blink red and I lose electronic control of the aperture. If I engage the manual focus clutch, move the lens away from infinity, and reengage it for auto focus, it will behave perfect until it hits infinity again. I have a feeling there is an issue with the encoder contacts that you show us how to clean in this video. I really appreciate these videos. A few days ago I successfully cleaned oily aperture blades on 35mm f/AF-D and saved over $200 off the price of buying a brand new lens.
Thank's Jon, and great that my small film's can help you and others to fix there expensive cameras and lenses, and of course save a lot's of money and time, and at the same time learn how the thing's working.
About the lens, It look's like my lens work's as it should, but it has been used very hard, I think it's therefor the focus circuit board was so much worn. The aperture is also working correct.
But also, the gear is a bit noisy, so I will lubricate the gear theeth wheels with some light grease "Loctite 8106", I think it will much better.
I have try the way you describe about your lens and the infinity issue, but I couldn't get my lens to not working, so, I think I found the solution about the focus problem in my lens.
Cheers
Kenneth
Hi Jon,
I have a 105/2.8 AF micro with the same 'strange'AF-issue at infinity. I am wondering if you could solve the problem and if so what did you do ? Thanks, Toon
I bought that lens from Adorama and subsequently contacted them about the issue where it was sent back for repair. It came back to me with the same problem! If I just barely took it off infinity focus, it would function correctly. I really think it's simply dirty contacts in the encoder assembly. I ended up returning it and getting a Tokina 100 f/2.8 and took advantage of the $20 mail-in rebate. That Tokina is amazing.
Thanks for your fast and clear answer. I did take a look inside the lens, but the contacts are clear; it looks like the AF-contact go (just) beyond reach or just 'over the edge'; I am gonna take another look and move the contacts a little. And indeed the Tokina ia (also) a great performer; I recently bought the 70-180mm micro and that's an amazing lens (and therefore the repaired 105 is for sale).
I did move the focus-slide-contact a little (towards infinity; just opposite as I thought) and now the lens works great, in both AF and MF modus !
Awesome video, Kenneth! now with sound!
Yes Richard, I had just got a used HD camera so the picture quality in my will be much better.
It's a different way to make film's about repair things and at the same time tell people how to do the repair.
But I will still continue to with my "motion-lapse film, it all depeding what I will show, sometimes it's good to keep it simple and without any sound.
Greetings and Happy New year from Kenneth in Denmark
Very late to this party. You don’t show how to remove the actual optics. I’ve got some fungus on mine. Any chance you can show how to access all the optical elements?
This without a doubt the best how to video - it's like standing right by your work bench, Thanks!
But I'm stuck after several attempts NEED HELP PLEASY -)
I can't get over the problem of the aperture ring not actually opening the diaphragm - EXACTLY as it first happened in your video at 40:17. You then fixed it! But I cannot see/figure out what you did exactly. That pin that you stipulate must fit inthe recess of the aperture ring (on inside), should it open the aperture if moved with to the right with finger/prod even before installing the plastic aperture ring? Mine just moves with no effect on aperture - it says at 32
Is something else wrong?
I'm indebted to you for the video already, and will be even more deeply so if you can help me get out of this fail-and-fail loop.
Don't make go to a pinhole :-)
casey
wal kardana Hi, I can see your point, but I think the other film I have made about this lens, about working with the Aperture blades will show it much better, the link is here: ruclips.net/video/MGDJom5zSfs/видео.html
Hope it can help you.
Greetings
Kenneth
Thank you Kenneth! That is a great video indeed! But what really guided me was your Karma sitting on my shoulder and giving me a helpful nudge now and again!
But seriously, your style of instructing is totally exemplary!
And a special thank you for replying to my desperate cry for help!
casey
Hello Kenneth:
After dismantling and mantling the back end of the lens several times, all seems good except the smallest aperture looks too big - as if the diaphragm is not closing down to its designed maximum travel i.e. to the smallest opening.
Also, stopping down from wide open whilst peering at the lens whilst off camera, it takes the aperture ring to move to almost f5.6 before a movement of the diaphragm blades is noticeable.
It seems as if the diaphragm travel is starting too late, sort of thing.
If you are able to give me a hint it would be awesome!
Best Regards,
casey
If you look in the other film, ruclips.net/video/MGDJom5zSfs/видео.html about 42:19 - 42:23, the little black plastic thing has to sit correct. If not, I would guess that the problem is there. Also check that the pin from the bajonet goes correct into the aperture system, when you move the aperture pin on the bajonet, it should fully open the aperture blades and when release it, it should close the minimum aperture that mean 32.
hope it can help you.
Cheers
Kenneth
Great video. Did it fix the problem with focus moving when you turn the focus ring in A mode? And just to let you know the black screw on the bajonet doubles as index dot to make it easier to attach the lens to the camera so it should go to the right hole (90° clockwise from lens locking groove). Keep up good work.
Hi, I am also assembling this lens now, and I see that you did not assemble the aperture control correctly, you did not insert the vertical rod into the groove inside the lens, but left it in front of the aperture, so when the aperture is open, you have a locked control lever. Do you think it should be so?
I checked it at 70-210 4-5.6 it is also blocked there, and at 35-70 3.3-4.5 it walks freely with the diaphragm closed. Perhaps because of this setting, the diaphragm will not close to f32. But I will probably do as you do, because it is simply impossible to insert this rod into the groove without long and difficult attempts.
What was the issue exactly??? I have the same lens and it backfocuses badly (so bad in fact, that I can't adjust for it via AF fine-adjust). Would this fix it?
What do you charge to work on a lens?
well that was fun, but can we have the theme tune to Mission Impossible next time please :)
Ha ha Clarty :-), I can image how it would see and sound :-)..., GREAT film.
The only problem is, how to pay enough money for the music....
Greetings from Kenneth
ah well, we can't have everything :) I love your videos by the way, they bring a little jot into my life, and I hope you never stop making them.
Cheers Kenneth,
George UK
Is that a common problem with that lens?
You need the right tools and knowledge
When I screw back the bayonet mount, the aperture ring gets too tight. The small screw and everything else seems to be in the right place. Is there any trick to it?
Be very sure to set the aperture ring correct so it go on to the little tap at the metal ring, look at 41:50.
Check also the bajonet has been put in, look at 42:04 - 44:14 , in the correct order, and the gear sit correct.
Abonne plzz