How to Replace the Front Sway Bar Links on a Mazda CX9 (2007-2015)

How to replace the front sway bar links on a Mazda CX-9 awd. This is a 2015 model, so this applies to the first generation but a similar procedure can possibly be applied to other generations as well as other suv models from Mazda. Worn or broken sway bars will cause clunking or reduce your handling performance. If broken, you will notice an increase of body roll when cornering. #thewrenchmonkey #mazda #mazdacx9
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-ratchet set
-allen wrench
-jack and stands
-21mm socket
-wrench set
-grease gun
Procedure:
Elevate the one side of the vehicle, then remove the wheel. This requires a 21mm socket for the lug nuts. Make sure you have a jack stand under the vehicle as a safety.
Using a wrench, hold the threaded stud of the sway bar in place. Using a ratchet and socket, remove the nut. There are plenty of objects where we can wedge the wrench in place so it makes it a little easier to remove the nut and prevents the threaded stud from spinning.
Then do the same for the opposite side. Remove the old link.
Install the new sway bar link. You may need to adjust the threaded studs slightly for them to align with the holes in the control arm and sway bar.
Install the nuts. Use a wrench to lock that threaded stud in place just like the removal and tighten the nut. Do the same for the opposite nut. The torque specification for both of these nuts is 45 ft-lbs or 61 newton meters.
These are a serviceable sway bar link as shown by the grease nipple so it's a good idea to give each pivot one pump of grease.
Finally, the wheel can be reinstalled. Make sure the hub faces are clean and free of any debris. A wire brush can be used on the rotor side and then a brass wire brass on the back of the aluminum wheels.
The torque specification for the lug nuts is 90 ft-lbs or 122 Newton meters.
Moving onto the passenger side, again remove elevating the vehicle, remove the wheel, and place a jack stand under the vehicle as a safety.
This style of sway bar link uses an allen wrench to hold the threaded stud in place instead. Typically these aren't great as the allen head can strip out due to rust where you're left with cutting out the old link. I cleaned the hole out with a pick and hammered in an allen wrench to make sure it fit tight.
A wrench was wedged into place to hold the nut, then the threaded stud was rotated to remove it. Penetrating oil was also used as an assist in the removal. Eventually it did strip out and had to use another method for the removal which you'll see in a moment.
Moving onto the top nut, again using the same process. This was what I was able to remove fully.
Back to the bottom one, I broke the link from the ball using a hammer. It fits into a nylon insert so it wasn't hard to remove.
I tried using locking pliers on the exposed ball portion and this was working fine until it wasn't.
Locking pliers were used to hold the threaded stud somewhat in place and then a dye grinder with a cutting disk was used to cut out the old stud. Be extremely careful as this is close to the CV joint boot and we do not want to damage this.
Install the new sway bar link. If the holes do not match the distance of the link, then you may need to raise or lower the control arm with the jack. Sometimes you can pry the sway bar a small amount to help with the alignment too.
Install those nuts and tighten them. The torque specification for both of these nuts is 45 ft-lbs or 61 newton meters.
Again each of the joints has a pump of grease as they are a serviceable joint.
Finally ensuring those hub faces are clean on the rotor and backside of the wheel, install the wheel and lug nuts. The torque specification for the lug nuts is 90 ft-lbs or 122 Newton meters.
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[@chrislee3414]

Have you done the sway bar bushings? I changed the links up front and links and bushings on the rear of my '08. The front bushings are pretty hard to get to, though, and local shops want over $400US to change the $10 bushings. Im afraid the whole front subframe needs to be dropped to get to them, but im trying to find a way around that.