That’s exactly how I had my old race boat set up minus the jet works valve. I was wondering how you set up your builds. Thanks for all the great info your the man!
This is is helping me understand why/how my X2 750 big pin with dual cooling was plumbed by the PO. In your videos, I like how you always explain the “why” before the “how” like all great teachers do. Subscribed
Thanks for explaining how cooling is inducted back to and from the stator area ive been asking for some time how these cooling systems work and are routed.with no real luck or awnser ive just got a stock 650 yamy vxr but one day running on river the small line coming off big pipe into head was cracked and spewing from connect point and jet ski had gone into limp mode all of a sudden.i barely made it back.ive tried looking at cooling schematics but wasnt much help.fixed the rubber line to head though and ran fine,so dont think i hurt it.snookie pa.💥👍💥
Whats your thought on installing an overboard bilge, getting rid of the venturi bilge and using that line already in the hull for your secondary cooling line? That's how mine is setup now.
More air flow. When we modify these engines and put a pipe on them they flow a lot more air than the stock flame arrester can really support by removing one of the Screens you increase the air flow significantly.
maybe u can help me out my waveblaster doesnt cool comes no water out the pisser i bought it this way its a 760 engine i need ur advice its a stock pipe and a skat trak pump bit dont know iv the cool water lines are in a good position i need ur expertism
question? if i run two 3/8 to a "y fitting (2) 3/8 into a 1/2". Then 1/2 line to the stock manifold port which would be switched out to a 1/2 with 1/4 MNPT. Would this work vs tapping another port into the manifold?
Great informative video! If you only have single cooling do you still recommend setting up the water lines in the same way with an ADA head and b pipe? I don't think it matters but this is on a 61x waveblaster.
That really depends on water Temps. I always prefer dual cooling. But in extremely cold water, you also need to worry about cold seizing. if it is completely stock other then the pipe you SHOULD be fine with single cooling. If you have added timing and compression I'd recommend dual cooling
Hey man im newer to the stand up skis. I just bought a ‘90 550sx with a 650 swap and makuni carb. Having some issues staying cool off the hose. I think a second cooling line will be what she needs. I believe its a stock pump and everything. Just had an auxiliary bung welded up to the side of the housing mirroring the stock cooling inlet. Im having some concerns of how go about hooking up my hose configuration for the exhaust and engine as well as if two separate pissers are needsd 8:44 . Could you shed some light on that for me. I can take pics to send to make it easier.
Hey great vid. Quick question. With the extra water flow and cooling what would be the optimum water temp coming out of the b pipe tell tale and out of the head tell tale say at WOT. And should either restrictors or larger outlets be installed to achieve this temp Thanks in advance
first it depends on the setup. And it's not the water temp it's the cylinder/ head temp and chamber Temps that are important. The water can be restricted or opened to achieve
@@EricksonMachinePerformance Yes that makes sense. What head/cylinder temp would you expect on a lightly ported 62t with b pipe and a group K 850 superbore with b pipe both for bouy application?
What is your opinion on parallel cooling? (one line for engine and a separate one for the exhaust) that is ho w my ski was setup when I got it so I have just left it that way.
I'm not a fan of it. But depends on the setup. Personally I run all the cold water thru the engine first. The pipe doesn't need the water as cold. But that also depends on water temp. The engine is what NEEDS cooling to perform. The pipe can still be cooled with warm or even hot water without issue
@@EricksonMachinePerformance the water in NJ never seems to get warm enough to matter, but I will look into it the next time I have to pull the engine for something. Also do you have any tips for adjusting the flow control valve. I just installed one from blowsion over the winter and will riding with it for the first time this weekend and i'm just a little paranoid about overheating/melting something.
@@jasoncrawford6257 We are also in NJ. Once you start modifying 701s they need more cooling. They heat soak less and perform better. But every setup is different
@@jasoncrawford6257 as to the flow valve. You really need to play with it. As long as you installed correctly you should be fine. When u take it out the first time go out for 2 min and come back and check. Them go out for 5 min and check. I normally keep them set in the middle not tight or loose
![Hunxho - Ball Forever [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nki9ZTF9Uls/mqdefault.jpg)
That’s exactly how I had my old race boat set up minus the jet works valve. I was wondering how you set up your builds. Thanks for all the great info your the man!
🤘
This is is helping me understand why/how my X2 750 big pin with dual cooling was plumbed by the PO. In your videos, I like how you always explain the “why” before the “how” like all great teachers do. Subscribed
Thank you😁
Thank you so much for this video!!! You explaining how the pump works each section really helped me out. Thank again
Thanks for watching
3m silicone is by far the best silicone glad to see you use highest quality stuff great work man
Thank you
Thanks for explaining how cooling is inducted back to and from the stator area ive been asking for some time how these cooling systems work and are routed.with no real luck or awnser ive just got a stock 650 yamy vxr but one day running on river the small line coming off big pipe into head was cracked and spewing from connect point and jet ski had gone into limp mode all of a sudden.i barely made it back.ive tried looking at cooling schematics but wasnt much help.fixed the rubber line to head though and ran fine,so dont think i hurt it.snookie pa.💥👍💥
The best source of performance 2 stroke jet ski knowledge So far. Thank you for your content . Waiting for new videos.
Thank you
Whats your thought on installing an overboard bilge, getting rid of the venturi bilge and using that line already in the hull for your secondary cooling line? That's how mine is setup now.
That totally fine as well there are many skis we do the same way
thanks for the awesome explanation but what is the benefit of removing filter screen ?
More air flow. When we modify these engines and put a pipe on them they flow a lot more air than the stock flame arrester can really support by removing one of the Screens you increase the air flow significantly.
do u recommend doing it on stock jet
Totally stock its really not needed
But it won't hurt either
@@EricksonMachinePerformance thanks a lot
maybe u can help me out my waveblaster doesnt cool comes no water out the pisser i bought it this way its a 760 engine i need ur advice its a stock pipe and a skat trak pump bit dont know iv the cool water lines are in a good position i need ur expertism
question? if i run two 3/8 to a "y fitting (2) 3/8 into a 1/2". Then 1/2 line to the stock manifold port which would be switched out to a 1/2 with 1/4 MNPT. Would this work vs tapping another port into the manifold?
Great informative video!
If you only have single cooling do you still recommend setting up the water lines in the same way with an ADA head and b pipe? I don't think it matters but this is on a 61x waveblaster.
For the most I recommend dual cooling on everything with a pipe
When is it necessary to add duel cooling? I have fx1 I want to add a factory pipe to, located in BC Canada, thanks.
That really depends on water Temps. I always prefer dual cooling. But in extremely cold water, you also need to worry about cold seizing. if it is completely stock other then the pipe you SHOULD be fine with single cooling. If you have added timing and compression I'd recommend dual cooling
@@EricksonMachinePerformance Thanks alot for the reply man!
Hey man im newer to the stand up skis. I just bought a ‘90 550sx with a 650 swap and makuni carb. Having some issues staying cool off the hose. I think a second cooling line will be what she needs. I believe its a stock pump and everything. Just had an auxiliary bung welded up to the side of the housing mirroring the stock cooling inlet. Im having some concerns of how go about hooking up my hose configuration for the exhaust and engine as well as if two separate pissers are needsd 8:44 . Could you shed some light on that for me. I can take pics to send to make it easier.
Email me ericksonmap@gmail.com. I'll be happy to point u in the right direction.
Hey great vid.
Quick question. With the extra water flow and cooling what would be the optimum water temp coming out of the b pipe tell tale and out of the head tell tale say at WOT.
And should either restrictors or larger outlets be installed to achieve this temp
Thanks in advance
first it depends on the setup. And it's not the water temp it's the cylinder/ head temp and chamber Temps that are important. The water can be restricted or opened to achieve
@@EricksonMachinePerformance Yes that makes sense.
What head/cylinder temp would you expect on a lightly ported 62t with b pipe and a group K 850 superbore with b pipe both for bouy application?
What is your opinion on parallel cooling? (one line for engine and a separate one for the exhaust) that is ho w my ski was setup when I got it so I have just left it that way.
I'm not a fan of it. But depends on the setup. Personally I run all the cold water thru the engine first. The pipe doesn't need the water as cold. But that also depends on water temp. The engine is what NEEDS cooling to perform. The pipe can still be cooled with warm or even hot water without issue
@@EricksonMachinePerformance the water in NJ never seems to get warm enough to matter, but I will look into it the next time I have to pull the engine for something. Also do you have any tips for adjusting the flow control valve. I just installed one from blowsion over the winter and will riding with it for the first time this weekend and i'm just a little paranoid about overheating/melting something.
@@jasoncrawford6257 We are also in NJ. Once you start modifying 701s they need more cooling. They heat soak less and perform better. But every setup is different
@@jasoncrawford6257 as to the flow valve. You really need to play with it. As long as you installed correctly you should be fine. When u take it out the first time go out for 2 min and come back and check. Them go out for 5 min and check. I normally keep them set in the middle not tight or loose
How do you setup the flow control valve ?
That depends on the setup. But most setups work well in the in the middle to loose settings. But you need to play with it and see
Do you still do porting templates?
Yes we do
@@EricksonMachinePerformance do you offer them for the yami 760?
@@afraz1er yes kawi 550,650,750,800,1100
Yamaha 701,760,800,1100,1200
Seadoo 800 and 951
@@EricksonMachinePerformance How much for the porting templates?
@@mjd1667 email ericksonmap@gmail.com.