We are to micro-machinists by trade so we really love to watch precision machine alterations. New to your channel it is really nice to be here. It is accepted messes are fine, if in the end the results are positive otherwise these messes can be a pain to us all when it is failure that occurs. Thank you for the share, Lance & Patrick.
works just as well with premix fencepost concrete, also horizontal rods , be they bolts or screwed rod coming in from the sides help it to knit together
Actually, no… you really want to spend the extra $$$ to use epoxy, and not Portland cement; because the latter is not dimensionally stable. For buildings, the amount of movement that the concrete undergoes is not an issue (although you do get some cracking from it). However, for precision machines, where tolerances can be well less than a thousandth of an inch (or about 0.01mm) it causes problems. Similar aggregates are used, however: silica fume (don’t breathe that stuff, though!); sand, fine gravel, and sometimes fibers of various sorts (glass, basalt, etc). You’re right on about the bolts or rebar though. Also, the alternating properties of hard, rigid aggregates and comparatively flexible epoxy results in better vibration dampening.
I think it made a difference, not sure how big. I can clearly cut more aggressive in steel. If I think back on milling on the fourth axis housing i can do that with ease today. But can also be general improvements in the axis' area. Would I do it again - yes I would
Hello, I will also do the same, what brand of epoxy resin did you use? unfortunately your video has no text and I can't translate it, so I have some questions, what materials did you use? how much resin did you use? How long does it take to solidify? granite is sand and stones to build a house? Does this mix adhere strongly to the cast iron structure?
I have no idea what he’s saying either, but in general you want as slow curing epoxy as you can get; with as least viscosity as possible. 24-hour curing time epoxies are often what people end up with. The other materials can indeed be gotten from building supply stores (or ordered online): silica fume powder (don’t breathe that stuff, though!), sand, and fine gravel. Sometimes people also put chopped fibers in (like glass or basalt fibers used as concrete additives) but strength results vary. Also, you should wash your sand and gravel before using it (use a good degreaser like tri sodium phosphate, and then rinse it thoroughly a few times with fresh water, and dry it in an oven before mixing it with the epoxy. Any oils or moisture remaining will prevent good bonding with the epoxy).
... but good :) I didn't say much about why I did it. The base for the column is not terribly weak, but it could always be stronger. Here is a link I used for inspiration www.cnccookbook.com/epoxy-granite-cnc-machine-fill/ and I guess a stronger machine with less risk for chatter is what made me do it.
@@drankenkorps Not so worried about the %. For stiffness more granite is better, but the difference between 85% granite and 88% granite is 3.5% so nothing to worry about. It is also important that every piece of granite is wetted by the epoxy and I rather have too much epoxy than air gaps/bubbles in the epoxy granite mass. What is important is to compact the mass as much as possible to reduce the distance between the grits. It will be what it will be. If there is too much epoxy, it will rise to the surface when the mass is compacted like it happened for me. The mass though is as dense and compact as possible. If too less epoxy, that is bad.
We are to micro-machinists by trade so we really love to watch precision machine alterations. New to your channel it is really nice to be here. It is accepted messes are fine, if in the end the results are positive otherwise these messes can be a pain to us all when it is failure that occurs.
Thank you for the share, Lance & Patrick.
A Swedish person speaking English with a heavy accent is so relaxing for some reason
Awesome. Love the idea of epoxy granite!
Very good work
You would make it easier for yourself to remove the wood if you put some wax on it before pouring
Really inspiring work!
I assume you will bolt the column through the full thickness of the concrete to give a good rigidity of the assembly.
I'll use the original holes in the cast iron. But it sure sounds like a better option, didn't see that before the casting.
works just as well with premix fencepost concrete, also horizontal rods , be they bolts or screwed rod coming in from the sides help it to knit together
Actually, no… you really want to spend the extra $$$ to use epoxy, and not Portland cement; because the latter is not dimensionally stable. For buildings, the amount of movement that the concrete undergoes is not an issue (although you do get some cracking from it). However, for precision machines, where tolerances can be well less than a thousandth of an inch (or about 0.01mm) it causes problems.
Similar aggregates are used, however: silica fume (don’t breathe that stuff, though!); sand, fine gravel, and sometimes fibers of various sorts (glass, basalt, etc). You’re right on about the bolts or rebar though.
Also, the alternating properties of hard, rigid aggregates and comparatively flexible epoxy results in better vibration dampening.
what is the material of the metal base ? is it cast iron ?
how big of a difference did the EG filling make?
I think it made a difference, not sure how big. I can clearly cut more aggressive in steel. If I think back on milling on the fourth axis housing i can do that with ease today. But can also be general improvements in the axis' area. Would I do it again - yes I would
Hello, I will also do the same, what brand of epoxy resin did you use? unfortunately your video has no text and I can't translate it, so I have some questions, what materials did you use? how much resin did you use? How long does it take to solidify? granite is sand and stones to build a house? Does this mix adhere strongly to the cast iron structure?
I have no idea what he’s saying either, but in general you want as slow curing epoxy as you can get; with as least viscosity as possible. 24-hour curing time epoxies are often what people end up with. The other materials can indeed be gotten from building supply stores (or ordered online): silica fume powder (don’t breathe that stuff, though!), sand, and fine gravel. Sometimes people also put chopped fibers in (like glass or basalt fibers used as concrete additives) but strength results vary. Also, you should wash your sand and gravel before using it (use a good degreaser like tri sodium phosphate, and then rinse it thoroughly a few times with fresh water, and dry it in an oven before mixing it with the epoxy. Any oils or moisture remaining will prevent good bonding with the epoxy).
Oh, and wash the machine’s iron castings with that degreaser also in order to get a good bond.
I wonder why someone the base of a machine pours expoxy granite?
Because mass is your friend in all CNC building. It absorbs energy and damps vibration as well as stiffening the component filled.
Strange idea
... but good :) I didn't say much about why I did it. The base for the column is not terribly weak, but it could always be stronger. Here is a link I used for inspiration www.cnccookbook.com/epoxy-granite-cnc-machine-fill/ and I guess a stronger machine with less risk for chatter is what made me do it.
Studer uses the same method for their grinders lmao
Странный акцент...
Tooooooo much resin...8% max.
8% is pro level 👍
@@metalmusings What is your % level ?
Do I dare to say? 20..... I have an explanation in the video.
Som say 15% but 12% better?? What's your experience
@@drankenkorps Not so worried about the %. For stiffness more granite is better, but the difference between 85% granite and 88% granite is 3.5% so nothing to worry about. It is also important that every piece of granite is wetted by the epoxy and I rather have too much epoxy than air gaps/bubbles in the epoxy granite mass. What is important is to compact the mass as much as possible to reduce the distance between the grits. It will be what it will be. If there is too much epoxy, it will rise to the surface when the mass is compacted like it happened for me. The mass though is as dense and compact as possible. If too less epoxy, that is bad.