it’s been exactly 21 months today since I’ve had mine (the older 5 in 1 model) and this exact thing started happening. I’ve spent hours doing all these steps over and over hoping somehow it would reconnect…only after i got locked out of my house helping out one of my elderly neighbors. thankfully i managed to hop the fence and my slider was open. assumed it was my router or my phone and it’d be a quick fix haha!
I wish I could replicate what exactly made it work. After I got mine working I tried to video how I did it but couldn't repeat the process so I couldn't make the video. It's some kind of intermittent issue. We put a manual key box next to the door with the emergency key for the lock. I've only needed it that one time but getting locked out would be a problem. Good luck. If you figure out show how let us know.
Summary: After I got a 3rd one which also didn't work I bench tested all three (off the door but linked by the lock/unlock shaft) and was able to get all 3 to work. Unfortunately, I don't have root cause. All I can say is do the following: With batteries in reset with the pin hole under the lock, pull the batteries, delete the unit off the app, then delete the app, then start all over but on a bench test / on a table. Do not put the lock in the door until the bench test clears, once it does, that one time setup sustains itself. I can't explain it but I'm at least up and running again. IMO, even if you buy this lock new, you should bench test before ripping your door apart. Once it works, carry on as for whatever reason, it holds it's setup.
Glad you have it working. I have the one with the wifi bridge . I just installed it and it worked fine the first time. Really neat product if you dont have trouble but I can see where it would be frustrating if you do.
Glad it helped. I video taped the trouble shooting but it was long so I didn’t post. The summary comments IMO are what’s important but I never found a definitive root cause. I simply know if it works on the bench test, you’re good and no point installing prior. It kinda odd but has been fine since.
Btw auto lock was still taken from your previous app settings.. nothing to do with new installation. Even if you factory reset it locks it up by itself in 10 seconds
Yes. The key point was that the lock would not lock or unlock. The fact that it “auto-unlocked” validated that it wasn’t mechanically broken, it was an electronic problem.
Couple questions. 1 Which model do you have ? Is it the one with the bridge or the one that does not have a bridge. 2 Do you have the Wifi and your Bluetooth enabled on your Phone while setting up the lock? I had both on for the 2 I setup
The one without the Bridge so no WiFi. My 2nd replacement one (3rd in total) did the same thing that makes me believe the setup has a gap. I’m going to pull all the locks out, place on the floor with no latch hardware and walk though piece by piece. I just wish the company knew had an answered. I’ve become there tech support.
Mine have lasted about that long. So far I haven’t run across better options. IMO, long term we need a change to have the lock on the wall side so you could run power to it. Or sole other option to run power through the door. Batteries don’t cut it.
May I ask a question. I want to buy the UBolt Pro, however the back panel would interfere with our large door handle on our pivot door. I could get around that by installing the back panel upside down. So the holes would still align between front panel and back panel, however the battery compartment on the back panel would be down the bottom, instead of up the top. Do you know if technically there would be any issues with doing this? Thanks
I’m trying to understand how exactly you are trying to execute your task. This video shows how the unit installs. I think you could do it upside down but the lock would then be upside down also (I don’t think you can install one side up and one side down). Not sure this answers your question. Sounds like you may need to purchase locally, see if you can do what you’re saying and if not return in damaged.
Sensor? Tell me more. There is no sensor that I’m aware of. The previous lock didn’t have a sensor as I interpret it (18 months of use). I’ll double check the box to confirm the latest model is no different but as of the moment I don’t believe that is accurate. All ears though.
@@edgarrodriguez3011I suspect I’m just not following you. There is the back plate my video shows and othe the other side the keypad/thumb print. Where is the sensor you mention. On the door that moves or the exterior frame. I have the lock plunger on the door and the non-door side simply has a strike plate.
I have a few of these in service over a year now. All keep failing with batteries and I believe it to be the WIFI connectivity the locks use. One lock needs batteries within about 2 weeks! I have a WIFI mesh network so I know it is not the signal issue on the network end. Customer support is a disaster too not even being ale to get someone either via their website support methods either. These locks are garbage!
It odd. Feel like the interface struggled to communicate initially. Interesting that once you get it setup, it holds forever. Very odd. I did a follow on video that shows a bench test process. It was hit or miss but once it worked, it was money.
it’s been exactly 21 months today since I’ve had mine (the older 5 in 1 model) and this exact thing started happening. I’ve spent hours doing all these steps over and over hoping somehow it would reconnect…only after i got locked out of my house helping out one of my elderly neighbors. thankfully i managed to hop the fence and my slider was open. assumed it was my router or my phone and it’d be a quick fix haha!
I wish I could replicate what exactly made it work. After I got mine working I tried to video how I did it but couldn't repeat the process so I couldn't make the video. It's some kind of intermittent issue. We put a manual key box next to the door with the emergency key for the lock. I've only needed it that one time but getting locked out would be a problem. Good luck. If you figure out show how let us know.
Summary: After I got a 3rd one which also didn't work I bench tested all three (off the door but linked by the lock/unlock shaft) and was able to get all 3 to work. Unfortunately, I don't have root cause. All I can say is do the following: With batteries in reset with the pin hole under the lock, pull the batteries, delete the unit off the app, then delete the app, then start all over but on a bench test / on a table. Do not put the lock in the door until the bench test clears, once it does, that one time setup sustains itself. I can't explain it but I'm at least up and running again. IMO, even if you buy this lock new, you should bench test before ripping your door apart. Once it works, carry on as for whatever reason, it holds it's setup.
Glad you have it working. I have the one with the wifi bridge . I just installed it and it worked fine the first time. Really neat product if you dont have trouble but I can see where it would be frustrating if you do.
@@chrisb9028 It frankly been fine. Which I could figure out the root cause. Once the bench test worked, it’s been perfect since. Odd…
This video was helpful thanks for posting!
Glad it helped. I video taped the trouble shooting but it was long so I didn’t post. The summary comments IMO are what’s important but I never found a definitive root cause. I simply know if it works on the bench test, you’re good and no point installing prior. It kinda odd but has been fine since.
Btw auto lock was still taken from your previous app settings.. nothing to do with new installation. Even if you factory reset it locks it up by itself in 10 seconds
Yes. The key point was that the lock would not lock or unlock. The fact that it “auto-unlocked” validated that it wasn’t mechanically broken, it was an electronic problem.
Couple questions. 1 Which model do you have ? Is it the one with the bridge or the one that does not have a bridge. 2 Do you have the Wifi and your Bluetooth enabled on your Phone while setting up the lock? I had both on for the 2 I setup
The one without the Bridge so no WiFi. My 2nd replacement one (3rd in total) did the same thing that makes me believe the setup has a gap. I’m going to pull all the locks out, place on the floor with no latch hardware and walk though piece by piece. I just wish the company knew had an answered. I’ve become there tech support.
I got mine in December 2022, and it lasted for 21 months.
Do you have any recommendations for other smart locks?
Mine have lasted about that long. So far I haven’t run across better options. IMO, long term we need a change to have the lock on the wall side so you could run power to it. Or sole other option to run power through the door. Batteries don’t cut it.
May I ask a question. I want to buy the UBolt Pro, however the back panel would interfere with our large door handle on our pivot door. I could get around that by installing the back panel upside down. So the holes would still align between front panel and back panel, however the battery compartment on the back panel would be down the bottom, instead of up the top. Do you know if technically there would be any issues with doing this? Thanks
I’m trying to understand how exactly you are trying to execute your task. This video shows how the unit installs. I think you could do it upside down but the lock would then be upside down also (I don’t think you can install one side up and one side down). Not sure this answers your question. Sounds like you may need to purchase locally, see if you can do what you’re saying and if not return in damaged.
Great product works fine I believe your missing a sensor that goes on the framing of the door.
Sensor? Tell me more. There is no sensor that I’m aware of. The previous lock didn’t have a sensor as I interpret it (18 months of use). I’ll double check the box to confirm the latest model is no different but as of the moment I don’t believe that is accurate. All ears though.
I’ve installed many of these locks the sensors size is about an inch. Is there a way I can post a picture on here?
@@edgarrodriguez3011I suspect I’m just not following you. There is the back plate my video shows and othe the other side the keypad/thumb print. Where is the sensor you mention. On the door that moves or the exterior frame. I have the lock plunger on the door and the non-door side simply has a strike plate.
I think he is talking about the later mode with built-in wifi. That mode comes with a door sensor@@MikeNSX
@@smtry6541That makes sense. I didn’t the bridge for it.
try setting it up on standalone mode, you do need to fully reset the device and report back.
I have them both working now. I think the new/updated App helped. It seems more robust than the first version.
@@MikeNSX Did it update the locks firmware or what? If code didn't work also then it wasn't the app.
Did you try factory reset?
Yes. A number of times.
I have a few of these in service over a year now. All keep failing with batteries and I believe it to be the WIFI connectivity the locks use. One lock needs batteries within about 2 weeks! I have a WIFI mesh network so I know it is not the signal issue on the network end. Customer support is a disaster too not even being ale to get someone either via their website support methods either. These locks are garbage!
I don’t even use the WiFi so it’s more than that.
I have exactly the same experience. And bridge had no light
It odd. Feel like the interface struggled to communicate initially. Interesting that once you get it setup, it holds forever. Very odd. I did a follow on video that shows a bench test process. It was hit or miss but once it worked, it was money.