With the Power button off, the Bi-Cut jaws open significantly wider and the handles open symmetrically. While this orientation will serve you better most of the time, you do have the option of increasing leverage if you need to cut something more difficult. For example, if you are an electrician, you would prefer the symmetrical opening for quick and repetitive cutting of individual wires, and you'd appreciate the wideness when cutting clusters of wire; whereas in power mode you'll have better success cutting chain or screws/bolts. The Twin-Force have a similar 2 in 1 idea. They can make small/repetitive cuts easier than the CoBolts because they have a narrower nose and better grip; then they have that extra power if needed. In fencing these could be handy: at times you are making many quick snips with the responsive tips, while at other times you may need extra force to cut a thicker tie wire. The CoBolts, as you said, are noticeably better than the other two when it comes to the thickest cuts. So you'll grab these when you know you'll have to make lots of tough cuts. In this case, you may grab these in conjunction with a pair of normal diagonal cutters, using two tools that are the best for their respective purpose rather than 1 that can do both jobs 80% well.
Great review, good work. I have various cutters, including cobolts and the twin force. Always end up preferring the twin force. Slightly smaller and sort of smoother when used. Less jarring and stress on the hand, especially at the end of the cut, when other cutters snap shut and the twin force just close with less of a perceived 'shock'. Knowing what I know now, I would have just bought the twin force.
I'm an electrician and I'm buying the regular Knipex diagonal cutters for most uses, Knipex CoBolts WITH RECESS for cutting bolts/all-thread up to 1/4 inch. The only worry is being able to thread the bolts after they are cut, we will see. If it haves me having to use a hacksaw on all thread when I don't have power tools, that would be nice. THANK YOU for the video, it kept me from buying the TwinForce cutters.
Thanks for showing the right way to use the TwinForce but I have never cut eight penny nails with them. I also like 28 21 200 assembly pliers. Great Video
Thanks for the nice video and review. I have the Cobolt and BiCut too. I am not sure whether I find the switch button on the BiCut gimmicky. If you would only cut thick stock I'd share your view, but if you also cut lighter things like copper cables or tie wraps with the same cutters it's nice to have the 1:1 lever action which allows you to cut faster, than to always have a 1:2 ratio. I personally quite like it for that, it makes the cutting action more direct.
I do wish they make these kind of cutters with replaceable jaws, so that the tool wouldn't have to be thrown away if their jaws are chipped or damaged. Even better if the replaceable jaws don't have orientation, so that you can flip them and use the other undamaged side. The tool itself doesn't have to be hardened as much, which would save some manufacturing cost.
They kind of have to have an orientation. But hey maybe there’s something in your idea. Leatherman did something similar but instead of having a 25yr warranty leatherman now makes you buy replacements so that didn’t really help that much.
Your ideas seem completely reasonable, but as someone who very frequently works with these tools, they are not a good design choice. Designing pliers with replaceable jaws done with screws will save not much more than 20% of the total metal parts. They introduce many weak points, which can often only be prevented by adding more material. Usually, its not the actual cutting parts that recieve damage if the tool is used for what it was intended, but much rather the entire tool if it rusts, or the handpieces when covered in corrosive substances or heat, that is if it used for its intended purposes. You also have to think about shipping and price. We sadly don't live in a perfect world, pliers with replaceable jaws would cost 1,5 times what a similar tool would cost, and the replaceable parts would be 50% of what a new tool would cost. One idea could be that the cutting faces are inserted with a dovetail cut, but that would make changing not really easy and might even require special tools. Using screws like on a leatherman would simply not be able to support the forces under continous use. The parts would also have to be manufactured with insane precicion, and you are the one who will pay for that. The actual solution might be a return of used tools to the manufacturer, which might repair only slightly damaged ones and completely recycle the rest, but this could also not be free and adds a considerable amount of travel the singular pieces have to do. For the interchangeable jaws with no orientation limits, I can assure you that side-cutting pliers would lose their entire purpose if the jaws are changed in a way that would make this possible. They are designed in a way for you to get the cutting edge very close to a plane surface, whilst maintaining a durable edge, like for cutting nails in a board. They are designed absolutely right.
@@JVan-ic6icLeatherman isn't making you buy replacements. Most people don't want to pay a $10+ shipping charge to wait a few weeks for new plier cutters when they could spend $15 and swap them on the spot. Those replaceable cutters are favorable in every way.
@-sturmfalke- replaceable jaws are already done by Leatherman. It could be reasonable if done right. The real problem is that Knipex makes way more money if you keep buying their $60 cutters every few years. There's no way they'd agree to have you mail them back in, especially since they don't have any facilities in the US, and international return shipping would be as much as a new tool. There will always be tradeoffs, but the only reason this isn't done more commonly is because most guys who need these enough to use them up in a year or two are just fine buying more.
@@sammiches6859 As I'm european, I forgot to consider the way higher cost in other parts of the world. In this case, you are absolutely right. If I were you I would also not buy something that in your country costs twice as much than the cost the manufacturer intended for customers near their production site. The price-performance ratio can't be good. I don't know about alternative options in the US though, if there aren't any this might be the correct choice. Don't fixate on "made in germany" though.
The pair of Wiha Bi-Cuts that I have open substantially wider with the power button out then with it in. This would be the reason they included it-so you can get a wider opening if you need it. I am not sure why your cutters don’t open more when the power button is out, that’s strange. I can’t even make mine “malfunction” by incompletely depressing the button. They won’t move until the button is fully one of the positions. On the other hand, although it does offer a wider opening, it seems a bit counterproductive since bigger stock will need *more* power to cut, I suppose if you were using them to cut plastic tubing or rope (not the tool of choice for that) it could be helpful to have more space.
Please, which Knipex cutter, cuts the easiest with the less effort? The Cobolt 160, the Twinforce, or an other pair of cutters? I need the best, at around 160 to 180 size, I'd appreciate any suggestions. OH, if it's the Cobolt, which model of the 2, the one with the straight blades, or the other with the small round notch? The use is going to be very hard to cut steel wire mainly.and nails maybe a small both secondary.
Both the straight (71 31 200) and angled (71 41 200) Cobolt have a model that comes with a recess in the blade to prevent the nail from slipping during the cut.
Sorry man but it's not completely true. Check the comparison of Project Farm and you will see that that are inferior to kobolt would be interesting a comparison with twinforce
@sarracino5h e didn't do the nws pliers on that video, it has a very different design. Also this one isn't the same as the knipex video, just a basic knipex 8 inch comfort grip in the project farm
@@XX-sz6qh i meant this video ruclips.net/video/Ed8NB41lPIQ/видео.html The kobolt is better than nws. Should be compared the nws with knipex twinforce...
Alright, I'm torn between the Bi-Cuts and Knipex 10 inch angled high-leverage diagonal cutters as a do-all heavy cutter. My use is cutting romex, large nails, and pulling staples in a somewhat small package. I assume the Bi-Cuts would still be easier to cut with, but what would you recommend? Do your Bi-Cuts have any damage like German Tool Reviews?
My Bi-cuts have actually done pretty well, very minimal damage to the cutting surface, I’m not a big fan of the button and the are quite hefty where the jaws are. They actually cut very good when the button is activated. As far as your needs go, I would go with the lighter (weight wise option) because both will cut what you wanting to cut. I think the Knipex would be better for pulling staples. But unless you cutting some harder wire frequently, there’s no need to get the bi-cuts
I have no idea why you bicuts don’t open wide when in non leveraged mode. Mine open extremely wide, significantly wider than yours. I suggest looking at other reviews and you’ll see.
For most of my life I never heard this style of cutters referred to as diagonal cutters. Is it now not politically correct to refer to this style of cutter with their common name?
@@ParklanCustom My dad fixed TV sets and I was an electrical engineer. I don't think I ever heard them referred to as diagonal cutters, but I did know that the common name derived from diagonal cutters. And all of a sudden the young whipper snappers are calling them diagonal cutters? It struck me as curious.
This should have been 3 or 4 minutes. Tired of reviewers wasting are time yapping. Simply take each nail and cut it with each plier. Then do next. Make conclusion.
@@ParklanCustom You were having trouble with the CoBolts keeping the nail fully engaged in the jaws, it was pushing out as you started to cut. There is a fix for that and Knipex also makes the same CoBolt cutters with a curved jaw in the throat of the cutters to stop what your cutting from wanting to push out. Knipex part number 71 31 200
The fact that all of these comparison videos use knipex as a comparison, tells you all you need to know about knipex , ....they are the best
With the Power button off, the Bi-Cut jaws open significantly wider and the handles open symmetrically. While this orientation will serve you better most of the time, you do have the option of increasing leverage if you need to cut something more difficult. For example, if you are an electrician, you would prefer the symmetrical opening for quick and repetitive cutting of individual wires, and you'd appreciate the wideness when cutting clusters of wire; whereas in power mode you'll have better success cutting chain or screws/bolts.
The Twin-Force have a similar 2 in 1 idea. They can make small/repetitive cuts easier than the CoBolts because they have a narrower nose and better grip; then they have that extra power if needed. In fencing these could be handy: at times you are making many quick snips with the responsive tips, while at other times you may need extra force to cut a thicker tie wire.
The CoBolts, as you said, are noticeably better than the other two when it comes to the thickest cuts. So you'll grab these when you know you'll have to make lots of tough cuts. In this case, you may grab these in conjunction with a pair of normal diagonal cutters, using two tools that are the best for their respective purpose rather than 1 that can do both jobs 80% well.
Great review, good work. I have various cutters, including cobolts and the twin force. Always end up preferring the twin force. Slightly smaller and sort of smoother when used. Less jarring and stress on the hand, especially at the end of the cut, when other cutters snap shut and the twin force just close with less of a perceived 'shock'.
Knowing what I know now, I would have just bought the twin force.
Thanks for the review and comparisons. Not even some of Knipex videos themselves say what takes place to get the benefit of the TwinForce.
Was super interested how the Twin-force would work. Have loved my CoBolts so good to know how these all compare!
I'm an electrician and I'm buying the regular Knipex diagonal cutters for most uses, Knipex CoBolts WITH RECESS for cutting bolts/all-thread up to 1/4 inch. The only worry is being able to thread the bolts after they are cut, we will see. If it haves me having to use a hacksaw on all thread when I don't have power tools, that would be nice. THANK YOU for the video, it kept me from buying the TwinForce cutters.
I'm glad it helped!
Thanks for showing the right way to use the TwinForce but I have never cut eight penny nails with them. I also like 28 21 200 assembly pliers. Great Video
Thank you! I appreciate you stopping by!
The Knipex CoBolt 6.5" (71 01 160) would be a nice comparisons, smaller than the TwinForce.
Thanks for the nice video and review. I have the Cobolt and BiCut too. I am not sure whether I find the switch button on the BiCut gimmicky. If you would only cut thick stock I'd share your view, but if you also cut lighter things like copper cables or tie wraps with the same cutters it's nice to have the 1:1 lever action which allows you to cut faster, than to always have a 1:2 ratio. I personally quite like it for that, it makes the cutting action more direct.
Great video! Informative and straight to the point
The bicut should open all the way like a regular diagonal cutter when in normal mode, not sure why yours only open to the same either way.
Everyone I’ve ever seen is the same way, the button it what released the handle to allow it to open further to allow for more leverage on the cut.
Mine open extremely wide in the non leveraged mode.
I do wish they make these kind of cutters with replaceable jaws, so that the tool wouldn't have to be thrown away if their jaws are chipped or damaged. Even better if the replaceable jaws don't have orientation, so that you can flip them and use the other undamaged side. The tool itself doesn't have to be hardened as much, which would save some manufacturing cost.
They kind of have to have an orientation. But hey maybe there’s something in your idea. Leatherman did something similar but instead of having a 25yr warranty leatherman now makes you buy replacements so that didn’t really help that much.
Your ideas seem completely reasonable, but as someone who very frequently works with these tools, they are not a good design choice. Designing pliers with replaceable jaws done with screws will save not much more than 20% of the total metal parts. They introduce many weak points, which can often only be prevented by adding more material.
Usually, its not the actual cutting parts that recieve damage if the tool is used for what it was intended, but much rather the entire tool if it rusts, or the handpieces when covered in corrosive substances or heat, that is if it used for its intended purposes.
You also have to think about shipping and price. We sadly don't live in a perfect world, pliers with replaceable jaws would cost 1,5 times what a similar tool would cost, and the replaceable parts would be 50% of what a new tool would cost.
One idea could be that the cutting faces are inserted with a dovetail cut, but that would make changing not really easy and might even require special tools. Using screws like on a leatherman would simply not be able to support the forces under continous use. The parts would also have to be manufactured with insane precicion, and you are the one who will pay for that.
The actual solution might be a return of used tools to the manufacturer, which might repair only slightly damaged ones and completely recycle the rest, but this could also not be free and adds a considerable amount of travel the singular pieces have to do.
For the interchangeable jaws with no orientation limits, I can assure you that side-cutting pliers would lose their entire purpose if the jaws are changed in a way that would make this possible. They are designed in a way for you to get the cutting edge very close to a plane surface, whilst maintaining a durable edge, like for cutting nails in a board. They are designed absolutely right.
@@JVan-ic6icLeatherman isn't making you buy replacements. Most people don't want to pay a $10+ shipping charge to wait a few weeks for new plier cutters when they could spend $15 and swap them on the spot. Those replaceable cutters are favorable in every way.
@-sturmfalke- replaceable jaws are already done by Leatherman. It could be reasonable if done right. The real problem is that Knipex makes way more money if you keep buying their $60 cutters every few years. There's no way they'd agree to have you mail them back in, especially since they don't have any facilities in the US, and international return shipping would be as much as a new tool. There will always be tradeoffs, but the only reason this isn't done more commonly is because most guys who need these enough to use them up in a year or two are just fine buying more.
@@sammiches6859 As I'm european, I forgot to consider the way higher cost in other parts of the world. In this case, you are absolutely right. If I were you I would also not buy something that in your country costs twice as much than the cost the manufacturer intended for customers near their production site. The price-performance ratio can't be good. I don't know about alternative options in the US though, if there aren't any this might be the correct choice. Don't fixate on "made in germany" though.
I have the NWS compound cutters. Love em bought 2 pairs. I'd love to see a Vs. video with all 3 brands
The pair of Wiha Bi-Cuts that I have open substantially wider with the power button out then with it in. This would be the reason they included it-so you can get a wider opening if you need it. I am not sure why your cutters don’t open more when the power button is out, that’s strange. I can’t even make mine “malfunction” by incompletely depressing the button. They won’t move until the button is fully one of the positions.
On the other hand, although it does offer a wider opening, it seems a bit counterproductive since bigger stock will need *more* power to cut, I suppose if you were using them to cut plastic tubing or rope (not the tool of choice for that) it could be helpful to have more space.
Yes, I need a pair, as a matter of fact I need several Knipex toolzzzzzzzzzz liked#5!!!
Bro chill
Please, which Knipex cutter, cuts the easiest with the less effort? The Cobolt 160, the Twinforce, or an other pair of cutters? I need the best, at around 160 to 180 size, I'd appreciate any suggestions. OH, if it's the Cobolt, which model of the 2, the one with the straight blades, or the other with the small round notch? The use is going to be very hard to cut steel wire mainly.and nails maybe a small both secondary.
The best cutters are the Cobolts without the notch. However, the twin forces are a great option as well.
@@ParklanCustom Thank you very much, I really appreciate it!!
Knipex does have an angled version of the Cobolt. That may come in handy in some situations.
Both the straight (71 31 200) and angled (71 41 200) Cobolt have a model that comes with a recess in the blade to prevent the nail from slipping during the cut.
Check the NWS Pliers- the side cutter is better than the Knipex.Greetings from Germany
Sorry man but it's not completely true. Check the comparison of Project Farm and you will see that that are inferior to kobolt would be interesting a comparison with twinforce
@@sarracino5 sorry man it’s true 😜
ruclips.net/video/nQ_IXHtd7Ek/видео.html
Project Farm is sponsored not independent.
There is more…. ruclips.net/video/SFyAoZ6WgkE/видео.html
@sarracino5h e didn't do the nws pliers on that video, it has a very different design. Also this one isn't the same as the knipex video, just a basic knipex 8 inch comfort grip in the project farm
@@XX-sz6qh i meant this video
ruclips.net/video/Ed8NB41lPIQ/видео.html
The kobolt is better than nws. Should be compared the nws with knipex twinforce...
Yes man, its always about force by way!
Alright, I'm torn between the Bi-Cuts and Knipex 10 inch angled high-leverage diagonal cutters as a do-all heavy cutter. My use is cutting romex, large nails, and pulling staples in a somewhat small package. I assume the Bi-Cuts would still be easier to cut with, but what would you recommend? Do your Bi-Cuts have any damage like German Tool Reviews?
My Bi-cuts have actually done pretty well, very minimal damage to the cutting surface, I’m not a big fan of the button and the are quite hefty where the jaws are. They actually cut very good when the button is activated. As far as your needs go, I would go with the lighter (weight wise option) because both will cut what you wanting to cut. I think the Knipex would be better for pulling staples. But unless you cutting some harder wire frequently, there’s no need to get the bi-cuts
This little opening factor is a no go
I have no idea why you bicuts don’t open wide when in non leveraged mode. Mine open extremely wide, significantly wider than yours. I suggest looking at other reviews and you’ll see.
Liked and subscribed
Cool
Not exactly a quantitative assessment.
It would be more of a qualitative assessment.
If you have to score it first, then it’s an inferior tool. 🤷🏻♂️ Wiha bi cuts win.
He really tries to say Knipex is better than Wiha. Those Wihas definitely beat out those other two.
For most of my life I never heard this style of cutters referred to as diagonal cutters. Is it now not politically correct to refer to this style of cutter with their common name?
The name Dikes is actually short for DI-agonal C-utter
@@ParklanCustom My dad fixed TV sets and I was an electrical engineer. I don't think I ever heard them referred to as diagonal cutters, but I did know that the common name derived from diagonal cutters. And all of a sudden the young whipper snappers are calling them diagonal cutters? It struck me as curious.
@@davefoc I know a lot of older guys still call them dykes. Your right, you don't hear it as much anymore.
This should have been 3 or 4 minutes. Tired of reviewers wasting are time yapping.
Simply take each nail and cut it with each plier. Then do next. Make conclusion.
This should’ve been a one sentence. Tired of commenters wasting ‘our’ time yapping.
Why are you calling the knipex bolt cutters kobalts?
They are called CoBolt (compact bolt cutters)
@@ParklanCustom You were having trouble with the CoBolts keeping the nail fully engaged in the jaws, it was pushing out as you started to cut. There is a fix for that and Knipex also makes the same CoBolt cutters with a curved jaw in the throat of the cutters to stop what your cutting from wanting to push out. Knipex part number 71 31 200