Replacing Scooter & Moped Steering Bearing And Races And Cutting Fork Springs To Stiffen Them
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- Опубликовано: 4 авг 2024
- My scooter's front suspension had a lot of play, and that's not good. Time to fix it! Watch me disassemble the front end. Then I'll remove, inspect and replace the steering stem and steering head bearings and races before reassembling the scoot.
I also do a couple of modifications along the way! I added a seal to help keep dirt and debris out of the lower steering bearing and increase bearing life. I cut my fork springs to stiffen the front suspension a little bit and bent the ends so they would sit properly. I show the whole process, complete with info about why it works.
If you have a scooter, moped or motorcycle in need of front end repair or modification; don't miss this one.
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Links To Tools & Supplies (Some Are Affiliate Links)
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Scooter Parts : ScooterTuning.Ca
37x52x8 Seal : amzn.to/3SvwEJ8
Propane/Map Torch : amzn.to/3zs6gY8
Small Oxy/Map or Oxy/Propane Torch : amzn.to/3QExNg7
Impact Driver : amzn.to/3vH6REf
Cordless Grinder : amzn.to/3oUfhED
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Songs & Sounds provided from the RUclips Audio Library. (In order of appearance.)
- Sun Spots by Silent Partner (Intro)
- Hitting Wedge With Maul - Sound Effect
- Pop - Sound Effect
- Metal Baseball Bat Taps - Sound Effect
- Volleyball Slap On Ball - Sound Effect
- Rubber Duck Squeak Series - Sound Effect
- Skil Saw Motor Run - Sound Effect
- Muscle Car Start Idle And Stall - Sound Effect
- Battle Crowd Celebrate Stutter - Sound Effect
The acoustic guitar track around 10 minutes and 22 seconds is my own original track.
0:00 Intro
0:41 Wheel & Handlebar Removal
3:01 Removing The Steering Stem
4:23 Removing Bearings, Cleaning & Inspecting
6:06 Bearing Race Removal & Finding Replacement Parts
11:31 Removing Shocks & Fixing Up A Rusty Stem
12:50 Does Cutting Fork Springs Stiffen Them?
16:21 Cutting The Fork Springs
20:30 Reassembling Front Shocks
21:26 Pressing In Steering Head Bearings With A DIY Tool
24:36 Lower Sealing Modification & Stem Bearing Install
26:34 Installing The Stem With Loose Ball Bearings
31:21 Reinstalling The Handlebars
32:12 Installing Forks
33:33 Reinstalling The Wheel & Accessories
34:40 Checks & Test Ride
#ScooterMaintenance #MopedRepair #ScooterRepair 
Авто/Мото
I need to do the whole bearing service on my chinascoot. Glad to have watched this. Thanks Brent for what you do for the scootmunity
Great to see a new vid popping up 👍🏼 thanks for taking the time to explain the process in detail. keep up the good work ( and the revs 🤪)! greetz from the Netherlands
You are the boss, my friend. 😉👌
Now that’s a video! So much I knew about springs but I can’t teach or put into words so thanks for being smart. I learned a bit about spring rates and tension. I’m 228 lbs so I’m gonna probably by some slightly stiffer springs for the bike though I’m 56 so I don’t do in major racing or jumping long distances
That thing is rad
Great job on the vid thought me a few things
Top yt channel
ja powiększyłem u siebie dziurki w tłoczkach amortyzatorów i zastosowałem olej 5w w ten sposób mam mega miękkie zawieszenie z przodu dobre pod stunt :) lekko się wybijam z niego :)
Hi nice video,when fitting loose ball bearings the correct method is to fill the race with ball bearings and then remove one ball, this gives the correct clearance between the balls.the correct method for tightening the bearings is to tighten the nut until there is no play in the stem with the forks loose enough so the handle bars can turn from side to side from a central position with a slight tap under their own weight
good how to video.
On the springs, you should have cut more off leaving the end with the least number of coils to be used. But before you cut, you should measure the total gap distances (added up) and make sure that measurement is much greater than the distance the fork can compress. Although you called this a progressive rate spring it really acts like a 2 rate spring. By just cutting a small portion off, you are just shortening the transition point. That is, you still have a soft portion and stiffer portion of the spring. You will quickly bottom out the softer portion and move to the stiffer portion but have a little bit more travel distance on the stiffer spring rate before bottoming out.
An easy way to check things is with a ziptie on the fork stanchion to measure how much of the suspension you are using at rest (with you on the bike = static sag) and how much you use when you ride (checked many times for max travel). At rest, you should not use more than 25% of your total travel. Some would say no more than 33% but this is more for a properly set up motorcycle where you have better components to help you manage the spacing. For your situation, you are trying to not bottom out and use your available 2+ inches of travel the best you can for your weight.
Thanks for the info. The good news is, it actually worked well for me so far for 10 months and counting and a whole lot of up and down from power wheelies.
I always pry at least two/180* opposed positions to minimize distortion and use a heat gun vice a torch!
Nice job!! Have you ever think off changing the scooter frame for larger cc frame? Maybe you can get slightly more space and stiffness? :)
No. I love this thing. Been through a lot.
Great videos: informativ, educativ and easy to follow. Thanks a lot!
Where do you buy those fueltanks?
amzn.to/3zAU4V3
Thank you 🙏
Hey, check out rubber dust sealing for lower steering cone that on Yamaha gear UA 06. It works great. Maybe it will fit.
Thanks, but we don't have that model in the US so no parts sites here carry stuff for them and I'm not sure where to get parts diagrams for overseas models.
@@49ccscoot oh, that's pity(
Hi I have been mean to do front and checks for so long but have not. Had the new tyres on 4 months now but have not push my luck. It's just put the lid on and go I'll be home after dark. All other checks have been done. Thank you for this one I have been thinking that the front end is little bit ??? Not sure
Thank you again it's great video
The check itself is pretty quick, so at least find out if there's play. It's good to do routine maintenance before there's a problem, but if it moves well and you don't have any play it may be something that can wait till it's convenient to do. On stuff that's well sealed, they can often go great distances without issue. My 2011 TMAX has had 12,000 mile and 28,000 mile services where I took the front apart and everything still looked new.
hey brent, wondering ... i have a 2022 wolf jet (gy6 50cc)- any easy/subtle mods to get a little more "umph" out of it? i know mechanicing pretty decent
I disappoint everyone that asks this, but I'd put a 47mm big bore kit on it if it were me. Most of the time that works just fine with the stuff already on the bike. You may need to rejet/retune the carb and maybe swap roller weights. With the stock airbox and stock exhaust, it should appear to be pretty much stock while having quite a bit better acceleration and more speed. Best of all, it's not terribly expensive.
If you need some install help : 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/350/big-bore-kit-installation
I've got a BBK before and after vid that shows how much difference that can make :
ruclips.net/video/PoK6ofGjeZA/видео.html
Wtf is a wolf jet🤣 anyway dont do anything to that cheap China crap just be happy that its still running.😄
can you lowered those type of front telescopic fork? TIA
Yeah. Sometimes the design of the clamp will let you just move the forks up in the clamp. Others have designs that prevent that. Some people cut the fork tubes and springs to make the shocks shorter. Depends again on the exact design that you're dealing with. Threads or any sort of special machining on the ends may make it difficult. Sometimes you can find shocks that are shorter and just bolt them on, but they need to match the steering stem and your brake mounts and axle size.
Hey weren’t you in ocean city, Maryland 9/17/2022 ? Because I think I saw you, if you were I was the big white van in front of you
I was down there for a few laps today and I'm kinda hard to miss so most likely that was me!
Nice looking impact gun. Addictive to use but it’ll break bolts just like a pneumatic if you’re aggressive with it.
I've just been using it somewhat gently to zip things on or off, hand tightening at the end. It's something that I should have had years ago. Seems to be a major time saver vs hand ratcheting everything. I always used a corded drill for home projects too, so this and the M18 drill have been amazing upgrades. I don't like ladders anyway, so getting rid of a cord while on a ladder was pretty great when I replaced a window recently.
@@49ccscoot I remember from your video with Ryan you saying “I gotta get me one of these.” Looks like you did.
I have the m18 1/4” hex for work and also the mid size 1/2” m18 impact rates at 400 ft/lbs. That one is very good for heavier tasks but still light enough for usage. I use it for the torque driver clutch nut when changing the main spring. I use the small impact for the variator and TD keeper nuts.
@@robertpierce1981 Yeah. I've wanted one for so long (years) and just did it. I still haven't modified my tool kit to carry it along, but I need to. I may make 2 kits. What I currently use and 1 for the impact, because if I park somewhere I don't want this on my scoot, but I'd carry it when I'm gonna stay around the scoot. Either that or figure out how to lock the seat without easily being defeated (because you could just grab the cable on the fairingless scoot).
This is just the 1/4" impact driver. It's rated high enough to take off lug nuts, but I don't know that it would. Doesn't seem like it, but that's not what I got it for anyway.
@Kevin Stearns You'd have to measure them and check spring manufacturers to see if anything fits or could be done custom. You could try find shocks or springs that fit from another scooter. To my knowledge, there aren't places carrying various fork spring options specifically for our small scoots.
Can you make a video on how to make a ride on workbench like yours? Or do you have photos of the complete bench? I want to make one my own because the bike lifts are so expensive😅😅
Here's a little info on my bench. I'm no carpenter, so I'm sure there are better designs out there, but this has worked for a long time for me.
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/6199/scooter-work-bench-table?page=1
A couple of additions to that are to try porch floor paint to coat it. It may be a little more durable. I used some leftover stick on floor/wall tiles on part of the top of mine recently and those have worked out well for me. I also screwed a piece of 1/4" aluminum on one end of the top to grab the ramp that I use so it can't slide off.
BTW, I don't ride up there. I push the scoot up. You really should have a ramp that sits low and then raises if you want to ride on. If I was going to ride up this thing, I'd want it to be wider. I have really no room to step off. I'd also incorporate a step to make it easy to get down. That stuff would make it easier to mount and dismount, but doesn't change the process of trying to get the scoot up and down safely.
I put mine in the freezer for 24 hrs makes it a lot easier.
Yo scoot i got quiet the question for you i put my minarelli am6 in pitbike and im trying to get spark in the most basic way possible mabey you can help
I'm not sure if/how the AM6 differs, but here's a diagram of a typical ignition system.
49ccscoot.proboards.com/post/37888/thread
I seen putting a spacer in your forks makes them a little stiffer. Do you think that’s true?
It should firm up the front a little.
Because it’s compressing the spring a little?
@@nastynatesscooters9896 Yeah, it's putting preload on it.
Man o man you went a long way, but always interesting of course, explaining how to cure bouncy springs. Maybe people shouldn't comment if they want to give you a hard time even though sounds fun.....About trivea ? I was riveted , l wonder, if you turned out 2 spacers to fit on your lathe is that not shortning the bouncy spring intended but keeping the origional intendedly well shaped uncut springs? Technically speakin shortened or not it just works. P.S. I Tink!
The most ideal way is to get springs of the desired rate, but the spacers add some preload and that helps it sag less.
What’s it called a race or a sleeve???Cuz im have trouble I feel like I got the size or something cuz it wont even go on the shaft at all it literally gets stuck at the neck!
Am I doing something wrong or do I got the wrong size sleeve or whatever it’s called
Measure the neck and the race and see if you did get the wrong size.
@@49ccscoot I found a shop that has the right size race an they are gonna press it on for me. Thanks for responding
Nice guide. It's just a shame I've just done mine! 😂
It's one of those things that happens over time so you don't notice how bad they have become.
But when finished, they feel so much better.
Anything new cooking?
Working on a vid. It's been too long, but you'll see in the vid.
j'aime pas moto force la qualité de leur matériel est vraiment moyens rien a voir avec du oem de cher Yamaha
This is a Chinese scooter. I don't have the option of buying dealer direct parts for this scooter. Vento is one of the few Chinese brands that did have an OEM parts site, but that's been gone for over a decade. Motoforce quality is at least as good as original and sometimes you sort of have to take what you can get unless you can find a direct match or want to modify everything with Chinese scooters. I have no complaints with the Motoforce parts that I've used so far. Aerox wheel hub, M10 brake rotor bolts, steering kit, and various other odds and ends.
No excuses for not having the proper tools. I bet you don’t have/use a torque wrench!, either! Excuse me, its just that I’m not a backyard mechanic.
Hey bro this is marine Boy I can’t get into my old account did you get my last message about if you’re not using your wheel lighter If you still have it can you give it to me or no I won’t mind buying it off you or you can just give it to me for free and I’m almost done with my bike and when I’m fully done with it I don’t mind racing you u bro lol?🦾