One of our customers has taken the time to make a better video install of our Tri-Fuel Kit. Please click on the link here -----> ruclips.net/video/pxyS-v3To_w/видео.html
@Peter Evans How "Other" conversion kit companies do things does not mean its the right way of doing it. We actually have a lot of calls from customers with "other" brand conversion kits who want to switch over to our Grenergy Kit. This "Other" brand conversion kit mentions on their website that any low serial numbered EU2000i is NOT compatible with propane. Which is funny because our kit works just fine on ALL early model numbered EU2000i and newer. So why the extra parts? Because if your customer is going to be spending that kind of money, your product better be done right the first time. Which is why we use aluminum fuel adapters "NOT plastic", all proper mounting fasteners, and new spark plugs gapped to LPG/NG specifications. Sure, extra parts = extra install work, but your only going to be screwing around with it one time. As for the breather vents, you can read the full technical article on our website in the link here --->grenergy-us.com/pages/whats-up-with-the-air-vents-why
Anyone else notice the advantages of this conversion kit over ALL the others? First, the adapter is machined aluminum. The others offer either 3D printed plastic or some kind of rubber. Heat, gasoline and age don't bid well on plastic and rubber. They sometimes get brittle, harden or crack. This kit also includes a "load block" valve in line with the demand regulator, which lets you make adjustments to the gas flow. Natural gas varies in BTU content and propane demand changes with the atmospheric pressure and elevation. And individual generators have different fuel demands. Nice that you can make the adjustment - something other kits don't let you do. And Grenergy includes vents for the case, to neutralize the vacuum inside the generator housing. Others don't include them and their conversions run rich under heavy throttle because of the increased vacuum. That means more fuel used and lower run-times on a tank of propane. Oh look, the hoses are made in USA and they're actually rated for gas. And they have hose clamps on them too. A metal push button's included with the EU2000 kit instead of others' plastic ones. And there's a re-gapped spark plug included also. No one else gives you one of those. Three manuals, one printed in color with step by step instructions and everything you need to know about fine tuning also included. You can't fine-tune the other kit so I suppose the others don't have to mention that. If I were putting together my own conversion, these are the quality parts I would seek out, and it's all been done for me. But I'm not the guy who shops for the cheapest way to make something work. My generators are 20 years old and they'll probably outlive me. I want conversion components that will also.
All good points, and to me this seems to be the kit for conversion, or no conversion at all :-) The machined adapter just made me curious, somebody put some thought and craftsmanship into it, and I appreciate that!
I've done two of these kits. The kit comes with longer bolts for the carb adapter. The OEM bolts had square heads. The kit comes with round heads. Looking at this design, I soldered in a paper clip. Cut it to just fit without the chance of spinning. Some folks might not have trouble with the round heads. I wanted to make sure I didn't have trouble. Other than that, the kit worked really good. The inner gasket was a bit of work to clean off. (very important). I'll be doing more of these kits. ....
This will make 4 fuel conversion kits I've installed after this one. This is a very nice fuel conversion kit and the aluminum carb plate is the best. I have load blocks on everything to fine tune.
Installation video should contain the drilling and installation of the hose and kill switch. Also show how and where the alternate jet is installed. Thanks.
@@girouxcampingadventures I had a few customers reach out to me by email after sharing this video and telling me this defiantly helped with their install! You got a good thing going with your videos!
Are you saying we have to wire and drill for the pressure button to be installed on top for the older eu2000? If so can you show us how to do that thanks
Appreciate all your answers here in the comment section. Let me ask you one more question: Is there a way wo verify that the air/fuel ratio with the propane is set properly? Would hate so see waste on propane/efficiency and or risk damage to the engine with a too lean mixture - if too lean (and heat) even applies to propane...
Good question, I already do that with a 5 gas analyzer. We test our engines at a facility and “dyno” them with the proper equipment. That’s the only way we do these kits correctly. No one else does them except for Genconnex.
In case one would also fit a remote shutoff circuit to the generator: Would this be OK with propane, will the delivery system (with the lack of vacuum) stop propane flow, or is it a must to turn off the propane source all the time? By the way: the kit seems great!
For safety it’s better to shut off the propane. For remote start you can add self priming on to the demand regulator to do so. I’ve had customers do this but I don’t sell any of those components, it’s beyond what I do.
@@GrenergyTriFuel If I understand this correct, the regulator _should_ turn of any and all gas flow, but if one relies on that, there is no safety net, so not advisable. Can you provide a link to an example "self priming" addon. At this point I can't comprehend how this would make the need for closing the valve on the bottle obsolete, but then I am just researching this entire topic :-)
Is it feasible you sell on Amazon trough their shipping system? This would make it quite simple to order internationally if setup properly, or are the fees just too steep for you (and with that the price the customer would need to pay)?
Anyone used this kit with a previously installed Hutch Mountain Carb /engine off switch? Wondering if there is enough room to install the propane quick adapter which sits close to the HM switch.
You can head to our website and enter in your shipping address to get a quick quote on shipping costs. Unfortunately we do not have a distributor in your area.
I think you have the EU2200iTAG which is the latest version that eliminated the 12v output. The crucial part (the engine) is the same so it shouldn't cause any issue. Edited for clarity.
Just received your kit for an older EU2000i and am preparing to install. The generator currently has some issues with the carb and needs the choke partially closed to run. If I only plan on running LPG(Propane) with your kit installed, can I use the current carb as is. Or do I need to repair/replace the carb? Thanks for any help.
I've got a question about fuel usage.... All these units seem to inject the LPG just after the air filter. But, the confusion I have there is that LPG is under pressure so it will be flowing out of the orifice in the adapter at the same rate regardless of the throttle setting.... Yes, the butterfly *after* the injection would change the RPM of the motor, but wouldn't the LPG continue to flow and eventually back up through the air intake? This is different than a gas setup where the gas is being pulled into the venturi and, therefore, has a lower flow rate at a lower RPM. Bear in mind, I'm not a gear head, so I might be missing some fundamental nuance on how the butterfly might somehow reduce the flow of propane. If the flow remains the same, however, this seems to be not only inefficient (no benefit of the auto-throttle down on the Honda) but potentially also a safety issue.
It’s very confusing on how all of this works but this video about how the demand regulator works will answer most of your questions. * link below. ruclips.net/video/CfM6D65MC_w/видео.htmlsi=KJXsHUubFRb-qI6h
Hello, we are working on a kit for the Predator 1400, due to supply issues and slow manufacturing everything has been very difficult to produce on time.
This is the harness that allows the ignition system to continue running when switching the fuel cut off valve to the off position. This is important when running alternative fuel on your setup
Hi all, cross-posting here to show the recent video I did for complete install start to finish. Check it out! ruclips.net/video/pxyS-v3To_w/видео.html I want to thank Andy from Grenergy for all the help and communication during the research, order, and install/testing phases. Thx again!
If the pump is on, it will pump fuel into the carburetor bowl which will be fed into the engine along with the propane. That will cause the engine to run rich, and rough. I've been running EU2000's on natural gas for 20 years and never had a problem with the fuel pumps which are operated by engine vacuum.
@@eegg6954 gotcha. I just installed a system (I think made by US carb) and it runs on propane just fine, but will only run with the switch all the way on. Every system I’ve seen so far tells me I need to have the switch near the off position. I can’t figure out what is going on and, if it’s not causing damage I don’t care, but there’s not many resources to refer to.
@@caseycasey621 You need something in the gasoline line to turn off the gasoline. In the EU2000, the on/off switch shuts gas flow and ignition. The EU2200 switch has a third position that only shuts the fuel. When converting an EU2000, either a petcock is added in the gasoline line to the carb or a separate "kill switch" is added to the on/off switch so the ignition can remain on with the gasoline valve closed. Either call US Carburetion or tell me what model generator you have and maybe I can help. You shouldn't be feeding gasoline and propane at the same time. You'll run too rich and when the gasoline runs out you'll at best have a vacuum leak and run rough.
@@eegg6954 ok, so the machine I altered is an eu2000i companion model. I did install a valve in the fuel line to prevent gasoline from getting to the carburetor. My primary concern was the on/off switch itself. Most videos show it needing to be in the down position, but, If I understand you correctly, on the eu2000 the switch should be in the on position to run on propane? Is it only the eu2200 that needs to run with the switch down?
@@caseycasey621 Since you have a separate gas line shut-off, you'll operate your EU2000 with the switch up or "on". When you turn that dial down, it shorts the ignition and stops the generator. When the dial's up, the ignition power is on. Many conversions disconnect the electrical portion of this dial switch and use the dial only to interrupt gasoline flow. That's why you see other conversions with the dial down to run on propane. On their generators that dial is shutting off the gasoline; on yours your separate valve is shutting off the gasoline. On their conversions, they add a separate button to interrupt the electric ignition to turn off the generator. Am I making sense? You're fine. The EU2200 has a three-position dial that lets you shut the gasoline flow separately from the electric ignition. Those machines do not need a valve or switch added.
Inverter Generator Tip: After destroying 2 cheap Chinese inverter generators. Tech Tip: When the red - over load light comes on or over load light blinks off and on. Over load light usually located on the front of inverter generator. When you see red over load light on or blinking off and on. Rember back off power immediately or turn inverter generator off immediately and reduce power and restart. If not you can burn inverter board up and even on Honda's. But alot easier to burn up on these cheap Chinese inverter generators boards. When it happens inverter generator starts but red light immediately comes on and doesn't make any power!
ruclips.net/video/ugv3JOAwzyI/видео.html I installed your kit on a new EU2200i. It seemed to work on full mode, but it is constantly idle surging on ECO mode. After making the video in the following link, and doing a little more research, I found that there was a "Cap" over the actual adjustment for the demand regulator. So in the video link below, there is no change, because the "Actual" adjustment is under the "cap" I am screwing in and out in the video. After realizing this, I was able to really reduce the idle surging by making the idle adjustment much more richer (Counter Clockwise) as the instructions say. But I had to back it off something like 9 turns! I am not sure why it took 9 turns outward (Counter Clockwise) to prevent the idle surging. Is it okay to adjust it this far out? Why is it set so lean initially?
Hi this is Grenergy replying back to your post. In this video I can already see the issue. You have not installed the kit fully on the generator with the door closed. We calibrate the fuel adjustments with the kit 100% installed, meaning the vents are installed, the fuel hose installed, and the doors shut. There is mention of this in our user guide. You need to fully install the kit for it to run properly.
@@GrenergyTriFuel I read your explanation on the webpage: whats-up-with-the-air-vents-why However, the argument for the vent is that the engine compartment is not at atmosphere due to the suction created from the engine. However, in the video the engine is at atmosphere with the door off. Also, why are you recommending cutting a hole in the door to increase airflow (Which will also disrupt engine cooling) instead of simply adjusting the low ide when the door is on without venting? Why cut the hole, instead of adjusting for low idle on the demand regulator?
@@GrenergyTriFuel Original Issue: ruclips.net/video/VZjTlUQKVdU/видео.html Fix I came up with: ruclips.net/video/VZjTlUQKVdU/видео.html I read your explanation on the webpage: whats-up-with-the-air-vents-why However, the argument for the vent is that the engine compartment is not at atmosphere due to the suction created from the engine. However, in the video the engine is at atmosphere with the door off. Also, why are you recommending cutting a hole in the door to increase airflow (Which will also disrupt engine cooling) instead of simply adjusting the low ide when the door is on without venting? Why cut the hole, instead of adjusting for low idle on the demand regulator? P.S. I am not sure what is going on. I tried to post this response several times and it keeps getting removed. I am not sure if it is some kind of automated thing with RUclips or what.
Hi, we have RUclips’s automated spam filters on the comments. Your comment maybe lengthy witch triggered the filter. Yes, the door is off and is now at atmospheric pressure, but your forgetting the propane jet orifice inside the fuel adapter is calibrated with the doors on. Everything is calibrated with the generator in normal operation, doors closed. If your concerned with holes, each of the panels can be purchased new from Honda inexpensively. There is not enough adjustment on the low idle to overcome the vacuum inside the generator for it to run properly. Even if you are able to do that, the generator now looses top end power because the screw is set too lean. It’s not about how you do it, it’s about balancing top end power and engine idle. The kit is made to run right out of the box upon proper install within an hour, and has now become an overly complicated 2-3 day install when it doesn’t have to be. The breather vents, if you look behind the inverter unit inside the generator you will see the recoil assembly. Behind that recoil assembly is a large engine fan. That engine fan cools the engine heads. When air gets sucked into fan, that inverter gets cooled as air gets drawn around the it and into the fan. You can skip the vents and do fuel adjustments on the demand regulator to have it work. But as a side note this is one of the reasons why our competitor can’t get their kit to work on the series 1 EU2000i. I don’t include parts for no reason. Everything gets bench tested on an engine dyno and fuel adjustments and engine performance are made accordingly in every kit we sell.
@@GrenergyTriFuel My concern is the cooling. There have been mentions of the motor overheating due to the redirection / reduction in negative air pressure from the vents. I do not know the validity of these claims since the unit seems to have vents built into the doors already. So are you saying that adjusting the diaphragm's tension (referred to as the low idle adjuster) on the demand regulator, that I could achieve the same results as including the vents? I have no doubt that you have had the engine tested / dynoed. But even engines of the same make / model have variations due to manufacturing, climate conditions, etc. you can get increased / reduced performance just from temperatures alone. (Which I know you know this already) I will mainly be using this generator in a very cold climate for extended periods of time (Up to 7 days straight in emergency situations) so I am concerned about operating temp and the ability of the engine to stay properly cooled (After running for such extended times at operating temp). This is my major hesitation with the vents. My mechanical engineering buddy who is really into cars says he things the engine is only going to be able to pull in the amount of propane that it can use, and that the regulator is going to prevent it from running rich anyways, so that the diaphragm adjustment is just to prevent the corroborator from building up with the propane. But he admittedly stated he hasn't worked on a engine with a carburetor in years, and that he was not fully sure how the propane would affect the engine running rich. Though he knew that with gasoline engines it would cause cylinder wall erosion from pushing the oil past the piston preventing proper lubrication. But since propane was already in a gaseous form and not atomized like gasoline, he thought this might not be an issue, but that you might hear the propane igniting prematurely from built up heat. Which would explain the random "popping" sound I would periodically hear when reducing the diaphragm's tension. What is the advantage / disadvantage to adjusting the low idle propane intake vs adding a vent next to the air intake? Is the concern that the mixture would run too rich by controlling it at the demand regulator? Or is it concern for exhaust valve failure? I am trying to understand how the vent plays a factor on performance by reducing negative air pressure in the case to increase air intake into the engine? Why is this preferred over adjusting the diaphragms tension (i.e. by rotating it counter clockwise in the "rich" direction)?
One of our customers has taken the time to make a better video install of our Tri-Fuel Kit. Please click on the link here -----> ruclips.net/video/pxyS-v3To_w/видео.html
Not a great install video. Should have shown a virgin gererator with all the steps including drilling the holes. Very confusing this way. Unprofessional. Looks like my neighbor did it. Not a good selling point.
@@GrenergyTriFuel Thx for the share. Definitely reach out if you have questions or tips. Support is great. I don't mind answering some questions too based on my experience. It was a fun project!
One of our customers has taken the time to make a better video install of our Tri-Fuel Kit. Please click on the link here -----> ruclips.net/video/pxyS-v3To_w/видео.html
@Peter Evans
How "Other" conversion kit companies do things does not mean its the right way of doing it.
We actually have a lot of calls from customers with "other" brand conversion kits who want to switch over to our Grenergy Kit. This "Other" brand conversion kit mentions on their website that any low serial numbered EU2000i is NOT compatible with propane. Which is funny because our kit works just fine on ALL early model numbered EU2000i and newer.
So why the extra parts? Because if your customer is going to be spending that kind of money, your product better be done right the first time. Which is why we use aluminum fuel adapters "NOT plastic", all proper mounting fasteners, and new spark plugs gapped to LPG/NG specifications.
Sure, extra parts = extra install work, but your only going to be screwing around with it one time.
As for the breather vents, you can read the full technical article on our website in the link here --->grenergy-us.com/pages/whats-up-with-the-air-vents-why
Anyone else notice the advantages of this conversion kit over ALL the others? First, the adapter is machined aluminum. The others offer either 3D printed plastic or some kind of rubber. Heat, gasoline and age don't bid well on plastic and rubber. They sometimes get brittle, harden or crack.
This kit also includes a "load block" valve in line with the demand regulator, which lets you make adjustments to the gas flow. Natural gas varies in BTU content and propane demand changes with the atmospheric pressure and elevation. And individual generators have different fuel demands. Nice that you can make the adjustment - something other kits don't let you do.
And Grenergy includes vents for the case, to neutralize the vacuum inside the generator housing. Others don't include them and their conversions run rich under heavy throttle because of the increased vacuum. That means more fuel used and lower run-times on a tank of propane.
Oh look, the hoses are made in USA and they're actually rated for gas. And they have hose clamps on them too. A metal push button's included with the EU2000 kit instead of others' plastic ones. And there's a re-gapped spark plug included also. No one else gives you one of those.
Three manuals, one printed in color with step by step instructions and everything you need to know about fine tuning also included. You can't fine-tune the other kit so I suppose the others don't have to mention that.
If I were putting together my own conversion, these are the quality parts I would seek out, and it's all been done for me. But I'm not the guy who shops for the cheapest way to make something work. My generators are 20 years old and they'll probably outlive me. I want conversion components that will also.
Thanks for the feedback and support!
All good points, and to me this seems to be the kit for conversion, or no conversion at all :-) The machined adapter just made me curious, somebody put some thought and craftsmanship into it, and I appreciate that!
I've done two of these kits. The kit comes with longer bolts for the carb adapter. The OEM bolts had square heads. The kit comes with round heads. Looking at this design, I soldered in a paper clip. Cut it to just fit without the chance of spinning. Some folks might not have trouble with the round heads. I wanted to make sure I didn't have trouble. Other than that, the kit worked really good. The inner gasket was a bit of work to clean off. (very important). I'll be doing more of these kits. ....
That’s good information to know, thanks for sharing and thanks for the continued business!
Installed on a virgin 2200i and flawless start and run on second pull. Fantastic instructions!
Hi Ed! Thanks so much for your feedback! Great to hear everything went smoothly for ya. Enjoy the kit!
This will make 4 fuel conversion kits I've installed after this one. This is a very nice fuel conversion kit and the aluminum carb plate is the best. I have load blocks on everything to fine tune.
Thank you for your support. Happy new years to you 😎👍
@@GrenergyTriFuel You too
@@tomtee4442 🎉
Excellent video. Just finished converting the first of two of my honda generators.
Great to see the video helped out.
Your videos are very good. I am looking forward to installing my kit on my EU 3000 IS. Thanks
Thanks for stopping buy the channel!
Installation video should contain the drilling and installation of the hose and kill switch. Also show how and where the alternate jet is installed. Thanks.
Thanks for your feedback, I have a customer who is doing a detailed install video. I will post this link when its uploaded.
For those who wish to see a better video install, please click here -----> ruclips.net/video/pxyS-v3To_w/видео.html
@@GrenergyTriFuel thx for the share Andy. Hope your customers get the extra tips and how-to they need from the video I recorded. Enjoy!
@@girouxcampingadventures I had a few customers reach out to me by email after sharing this video and telling me this defiantly helped with their install! You got a good thing going with your videos!
Are you saying we have to wire and drill for the pressure button to be installed on top for the older eu2000?
If so can you show us how to do that thanks
Shoot me an email and I’ll send over the user guide
My 2000 kit was missing a pre-gapped spark plug. What gap should I set a new spark plug?
Hi, sorry about that. Please gap this to .020"
I have the old eu2000 version How is my installation different from what I saw here?
hello, It's the same but with the EU2000i you will install the kill switch.
Putting tension on bolts to tighten is definitely a trick that works with new bolts, carriage bolts would be a good option for longevity.
We may do custom bolts if we can find a supplier who can make them at a fair price.
@@GrenergyTriFuel grind down carriage bolts.
How cold can it be, so that the propane still works fine? I assume at some point the evaporator would not work properly anymore, correct?
I would say near zero temps would be bad, but you can use a propane blanket heater.
Appreciate all your answers here in the comment section. Let me ask you one more question: Is there a way wo verify that the air/fuel ratio with the propane is set properly? Would hate so see waste on propane/efficiency and or risk damage to the engine with a too lean mixture - if too lean (and heat) even applies to propane...
Good question, I already do that with a 5 gas analyzer. We test our engines at a facility and “dyno” them with the proper equipment. That’s the only way we do these kits correctly. No one else does them except for Genconnex.
well done
Thanks!
In case one would also fit a remote shutoff circuit to the generator: Would this be OK with propane, will the delivery system (with the lack of vacuum) stop propane flow, or is it a must to turn off the propane source all the time? By the way: the kit seems great!
For safety it’s better to shut off the propane. For remote start you can add self priming on to the demand regulator to do so. I’ve had customers do this but I don’t sell any of those components, it’s beyond what I do.
@@GrenergyTriFuel If I understand this correct, the regulator _should_ turn of any and all gas flow, but if one relies on that, there is no safety net, so not advisable. Can you provide a link to an example "self priming" addon. At this point I can't comprehend how this would make the need for closing the valve on the bottle obsolete, but then I am just researching this entire topic :-)
With the kit installed properly can I run my Honda using natural gas or propane ?
Yes, you can use all three fuels. Gasoline, LP and NG. Which is why this kit is called tri-fuel.
Is it feasible you sell on Amazon trough their shipping system? This would make it quite simple to order internationally if setup properly, or are the fees just too steep for you (and with that the price the customer would need to pay)?
The sellers fee would be 1/3 the cost of the product and I would have to sell it on Amazon for a lot more than my website to cover the sellers fee.
From your experience, if one has the choice: Would you suggest using/converting a 2000i, or a 2200 overall?
They are both good, you can do either or but the EU2200i has been popular.
Gibt es ein Umrüstkit für Honda EU22I?
Yes the EU22i and EU2200i are the same
Anyone used this kit with a previously installed Hutch Mountain Carb /engine off switch? Wondering if there is enough room to install the propane quick adapter which sits close to the HM switch.
Were you able to install the kit? How did it go?
How much to send to Exmouth 6707 Western Australia or do you have a Australian distributor?
How much all up in Australian dollars?
You can head to our website and enter in your shipping address to get a quick quote on shipping costs. Unfortunately we do not have a distributor in your area.
My EU2200i does not look the same as yours, does that cause a problem? Mine is from Home Depot and does not have the DC output and includes Bluetooth
I think you have the EU2200iTAG which is the latest version that eliminated the 12v output. The crucial part (the engine) is the same so it shouldn't cause any issue.
Edited for clarity.
Our kit works with the new EU2200i with Co-minder. Same with the new companion model.
Just received your kit for an older EU2000i and am preparing to install. The generator currently has some issues with the carb and needs the choke partially closed to run. If I only plan on running LPG(Propane) with your kit installed, can I use the current carb as is. Or do I need to repair/replace the carb? Thanks for any help.
You can use it as is but make sure the carb is clean. And that the electronic throttle is working
Anything in the pipeline for the EU3000is?
By end of summer we hope to have a kit for the EU3000is
I've got a question about fuel usage.... All these units seem to inject the LPG just after the air filter. But, the confusion I have there is that LPG is under pressure so it will be flowing out of the orifice in the adapter at the same rate regardless of the throttle setting.... Yes, the butterfly *after* the injection would change the RPM of the motor, but wouldn't the LPG continue to flow and eventually back up through the air intake? This is different than a gas setup where the gas is being pulled into the venturi and, therefore, has a lower flow rate at a lower RPM. Bear in mind, I'm not a gear head, so I might be missing some fundamental nuance on how the butterfly might somehow reduce the flow of propane. If the flow remains the same, however, this seems to be not only inefficient (no benefit of the auto-throttle down on the Honda) but potentially also a safety issue.
It’s very confusing on how all of this works but this video about how the demand regulator works will answer most of your questions. * link below. ruclips.net/video/CfM6D65MC_w/видео.htmlsi=KJXsHUubFRb-qI6h
Will this kit work on the Predator 1400 watt super quiet generator?
Hello, we are working on a kit for the Predator 1400, due to supply issues and slow manufacturing everything has been very difficult to produce on time.
Why do your kits require additional vents while others dont?
Hello. Please read this article, this should answer your question. grenergy-us.com/pages/whats-up-with-the-air-vents-why
What does the "wiring harness" for the eu 2000 do? Why?
This is the harness that allows the ignition system to continue running when switching the fuel cut off valve to the off position. This is important when running alternative fuel on your setup
The wiring harness makes it so you can add a button to cut the ignition so you can clear out the gasoline.
Does this kit work for other generators?
Hello, at the moment this kit works for the Honda generator. In the near future we will have other kits available.
will the generator only be able to run on propane/ natural gas?
This kit will allow all three fuels to be used. Gasoline, Propane, and Natural Gas.
I'm at about 5,000ft. Whats the difference?
Higher altitudes means the air this thinner, you should adjust the fuel settings accordingly.
Hi all, cross-posting here to show the recent video I did for complete install start to finish. Check it out!
ruclips.net/video/pxyS-v3To_w/видео.html
I want to thank Andy from Grenergy for all the help and communication during the research, order, and install/testing phases. Thx again!
Thanks 👍👍👍
Why does the fuel pump need to be off? Will it burn out if it’s not pumping gas whilst running on propane?
If the pump is on, it will pump fuel into the carburetor bowl which will be fed into the engine along with the propane. That will cause the engine to run rich, and rough. I've been running EU2000's on natural gas for 20 years and never had a problem with the fuel pumps which are operated by engine vacuum.
@@eegg6954 gotcha. I just installed a system (I think made by US carb) and it runs on propane just fine, but will only run with the switch all the way on. Every system I’ve seen so far tells me I need to have the switch near the off position. I can’t figure out what is going on and, if it’s not causing damage I don’t care, but there’s not many resources to refer to.
@@caseycasey621 You need something in the gasoline line to turn off the gasoline. In the EU2000, the on/off switch shuts gas flow and ignition. The EU2200 switch has a third position that only shuts the fuel. When converting an EU2000, either a petcock is added in the gasoline line to the carb or a separate "kill switch" is added to the on/off switch so the ignition can remain on with the gasoline valve closed. Either call US Carburetion or tell me what model generator you have and maybe I can help. You shouldn't be feeding gasoline and propane at the same time. You'll run too rich and when the gasoline runs out you'll at best have a vacuum leak and run rough.
@@eegg6954 ok, so the machine I altered is an eu2000i companion model. I did install a valve in the fuel line to prevent gasoline from getting to the carburetor. My primary concern was the on/off switch itself. Most videos show it needing to be in the down position, but, If I understand you correctly, on the eu2000 the switch should be in the on position to run on propane? Is it only the eu2200 that needs to run with the switch down?
@@caseycasey621 Since you have a separate gas line shut-off, you'll operate your EU2000 with the switch up or "on". When you turn that dial down, it shorts the ignition and stops the generator. When the dial's up, the ignition power is on. Many conversions disconnect the electrical portion of this dial switch and use the dial only to interrupt gasoline flow. That's why you see other conversions with the dial down to run on propane. On their generators that dial is shutting off the gasoline; on yours your separate valve is shutting off the gasoline. On their conversions, they add a separate button to interrupt the electric ignition to turn off the generator. Am I making sense? You're fine. The EU2200 has a three-position dial that lets you shut the gasoline flow separately from the electric ignition. Those machines do not need a valve or switch added.
Inverter Generator Tip: After destroying 2 cheap Chinese inverter generators. Tech Tip: When the red - over load light comes on or over load light blinks off and on. Over load light usually located on the front of inverter generator. When you see red over load light on or blinking off and on. Rember back off power immediately or turn inverter generator off immediately and reduce power and restart. If not you can burn inverter board up and even on Honda's. But alot easier to burn up on these cheap Chinese inverter generators boards. When it happens inverter generator starts but red light immediately comes on and doesn't make any power!
Sorry for the late reply. Thanks for the tip!
@@GrenergyTriFuel Your welcome
ruclips.net/video/ugv3JOAwzyI/видео.html
I installed your kit on a new EU2200i. It seemed to work on full mode, but it is constantly idle surging on ECO mode. After making the video in the following link, and doing a little more research, I found that there was a "Cap" over the actual adjustment for the demand regulator. So in the video link below, there is no change, because the "Actual" adjustment is under the "cap" I am screwing in and out in the video. After realizing this, I was able to really reduce the idle surging by making the idle adjustment much more richer (Counter Clockwise) as the instructions say. But I had to back it off something like 9 turns! I am not sure why it took 9 turns outward (Counter Clockwise) to prevent the idle surging. Is it okay to adjust it this far out? Why is it set so lean initially?
Hi this is Grenergy replying back to your post. In this video I can already see the issue. You have not installed the kit fully on the generator with the door closed. We calibrate the fuel adjustments with the kit 100% installed, meaning the vents are installed, the fuel hose installed, and the doors shut. There is mention of this in our user guide. You need to fully install the kit for it to run properly.
@@GrenergyTriFuel I read your explanation on the webpage: whats-up-with-the-air-vents-why
However, the argument for the vent is that the engine compartment is not at atmosphere due to the suction created from the engine. However, in the video the engine is at atmosphere with the door off.
Also, why are you recommending cutting a hole in the door to increase airflow (Which will also disrupt engine cooling) instead of simply adjusting the low ide when the door is on without venting? Why cut the hole, instead of adjusting for low idle on the demand regulator?
@@GrenergyTriFuel Original Issue: ruclips.net/video/VZjTlUQKVdU/видео.html
Fix I came up with: ruclips.net/video/VZjTlUQKVdU/видео.html
I read your explanation on the webpage: whats-up-with-the-air-vents-why
However, the argument for the vent is that the engine compartment is not at atmosphere due to the suction created from the engine. However, in the video the engine is at atmosphere with the door off.
Also, why are you recommending cutting a hole in the door to increase airflow (Which will also disrupt engine cooling) instead of simply adjusting the low ide when the door is on without venting? Why cut the hole, instead of adjusting for low idle on the demand regulator?
P.S. I am not sure what is going on. I tried to post this response several times and it keeps getting removed. I am not sure if it is some kind of automated thing with RUclips or what.
Hi, we have RUclips’s automated spam filters on the comments. Your comment maybe lengthy witch triggered the filter.
Yes, the door is off and is now at atmospheric pressure, but your forgetting the propane jet orifice inside the fuel adapter is calibrated with the doors on.
Everything is calibrated with the generator in normal operation, doors closed.
If your concerned with holes, each of the panels can be purchased new from Honda inexpensively.
There is not enough adjustment on the low idle to overcome the vacuum inside the generator for it to run properly. Even if you are able to do that, the generator now looses top end power because the screw is set too lean. It’s not about how you do it, it’s about balancing top end power and engine idle.
The kit is made to run right out of the box upon proper install within an hour, and has now become an overly complicated 2-3 day install when it doesn’t have to be.
The breather vents, if you look behind the inverter unit inside the generator you will see the recoil assembly. Behind that recoil assembly is a large engine fan. That engine fan cools the engine heads. When air gets sucked into fan, that inverter gets cooled as air gets drawn around the it and into the fan.
You can skip the vents and do fuel adjustments on the demand regulator to have it work. But as a side note this is one of the reasons why our competitor can’t get their kit to work on the series 1 EU2000i.
I don’t include parts for no reason. Everything gets bench tested on an engine dyno and fuel adjustments and engine performance are made accordingly in every kit we sell.
@@GrenergyTriFuel My concern is the cooling. There have been mentions of the motor overheating due to the redirection / reduction in negative air pressure from the vents. I do not know the validity of these claims since the unit seems to have vents built into the doors already.
So are you saying that adjusting the diaphragm's tension (referred to as the low idle adjuster) on the demand regulator, that I could achieve the same results as including the vents?
I have no doubt that you have had the engine tested / dynoed. But even engines of the same make / model have variations due to manufacturing, climate conditions, etc. you can get increased / reduced performance just from temperatures alone. (Which I know you know this already) I will mainly be using this generator in a very cold climate for extended periods of time (Up to 7 days straight in emergency situations) so I am concerned about operating temp and the ability of the engine to stay properly cooled (After running for such extended times at operating temp). This is my major hesitation with the vents.
My mechanical engineering buddy who is really into cars says he things the engine is only going to be able to pull in the amount of propane that it can use, and that the regulator is going to prevent it from running rich anyways, so that the diaphragm adjustment is just to prevent the corroborator from building up with the propane. But he admittedly stated he hasn't worked on a engine with a carburetor in years, and that he was not fully sure how the propane would affect the engine running rich. Though he knew that with gasoline engines it would cause cylinder wall erosion from pushing the oil past the piston preventing proper lubrication. But since propane was already in a gaseous form and not atomized like gasoline, he thought this might not be an issue, but that you might hear the propane igniting prematurely from built up heat. Which would explain the random "popping" sound I would periodically hear when reducing the diaphragm's tension.
What is the advantage / disadvantage to adjusting the low idle propane intake vs adding a vent next to the air intake? Is the concern that the mixture would run too rich by controlling it at the demand regulator? Or is it concern for exhaust valve failure? I am trying to understand how the vent plays a factor on performance by reducing negative air pressure in the case to increase air intake into the engine? Why is this preferred over adjusting the diaphragms tension (i.e. by rotating it counter clockwise in the "rich" direction)?
“Showcase” is not a synonym of “show”. You just mean “show”
Thanks
"
Step by step installation of the tri-fuel conversion kit"
I hope the instructions take a lot more steps than the video.
One of our customers has taken the time to make a better video install of our Tri-Fuel Kit. Please click on the link here -----> ruclips.net/video/pxyS-v3To_w/видео.html
"Orientation of gasket looks like a sloth, check"
:)
Not a great install video. Should have shown a virgin gererator with all the steps including drilling the holes. Very confusing this way. Unprofessional. Looks like my neighbor did it. Not a good selling point.
Thanks for your feedback, I have a customer who is doing a detailed install video. I will post this link when its uploaded.
For those who wish to see a better video install, please click here -----> ruclips.net/video/pxyS-v3To_w/видео.html
@@GrenergyTriFuel Thx for the share. Definitely reach out if you have questions or tips. Support is great. I don't mind answering some questions too based on my experience. It was a fun project!