Being from Denmark, it is so impressing what You can get for You2 classic/vintage cars i USA. No more stopping issues, impressing work and informative as always.
For those wondering what bearings this particular kit uses, here they are: The inside bearing assembly (larger) are Timken Part Numbers LM67010 and LM67048. The outer is Timken Part Numbers LM11910 and LM11949.
Terry - another awesome video! Thank you for taking the time to share all your work on video and explain as you go. Your videos and comments are inspirational. It is so nice to see your car on the road after you make upgrades and some maintenance. Keep up the great work!
Thank you very much David! I really appreciate your comments. I'm glad you enjoy them as much as I do producing them. I do like to help and inspire people to learn and complete their projects. Take care!
I used a Scarebird kit to put disc brakes in the front of my 1965 Rambler American, and while it won’t stop as well as my newer vehicles, they are a big improvement over the original drums. I like the fact that the kits they make use over the counter parts, saving money and also making replacement parts easy to get at any part store. Excellent job on video, you did a great job of showing how to do it. I totally understand wanting to upgrade the brakes, it just makes these old cars work better in the modern world.
@@FlatheadTerry I swapped in a 4.0 and 5 speed from a Jeep Cherokee complete with the fuel injection. It originally had a 232 with an automatic. I’m not against doing some upgrades.
The only downside to the scarebird kit on my car was they don't make one for the rear. I did however find a rear kit from wilwood. Funny thing is it fit my car perfectly but it isn't listed on their site at all.
Cant wait to see the master cylinder replacement. Please can you show a setup of how you do a new brake installation and how you set up the pads and bleed the system to work. Mine is all original and rebuilt the brake system but can’t for the life of me get pressure. 36 Dodge mopar.
Thanks for the comment Barry. I'm still running the single chamber master cylinder with great results, so I originally thought I would have changed it out by now. I have no problems braking now with it running the front discs and drum rears. The pads have now "broken it" nicely after 500 miles so it stops very good now. The issue with yours sounds like the Master cylinder has air in the valve body. It took me well over 100 pumps when I bled it in my vise to clear all the air bubbles prior to installing it on the Coupe. Then more bleeding.
@@1neldogg I suggest contacting Scarebird directly. I see they used to have a 1940-52 Oldsmobile Kit (scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=62&product_id=203). They're under new management and have a new web site (www.scarebird.net) so there may be a delay in contacting them. There may be a way to modify the 1940-52 Oldsmobile Kit to fit your 1937. The mounting brackets are the most challenging part of these upgrades. Especially if you can keep your original Hub assembly. I wish I had a better answer for you!
Well done. Subscribed. I bet I learn lots about my 39 Dodge from your videos. Scarebird told me I could punch out the residual valve in the stock master. I'm hesitant to do that. No dual master kits exist and I haven't removed my floor panel yet to see what space is actually available in the X frame area of the factory master. Have you done any digging under there yet?
Thanks Erik! For the dual chamber Master cylinder, ECI Hot Rod Brakes sells an under floor, bolt in kit for our Plymouths. Here's the link www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/chrysler_master_assemblies.html
Thanks for subbing Buddy! Appreciate it. The conversion is worth it in my opinion. I kept all the original drum brake parts to keep with the coupe for the future. I like to keep it as original as possible and still drive it daily.
Hi Terry, I am just starting the project on my Plymouth P4 . In the video you say a 2 pound residual pressure valve but the video shows a 10 pound valve. which is correct? Where did you get the pressure valves and do you have part numbers? Thanks, Joe
Hey Joe! I realized after I did the filming that I said the wrong thing. The 2 lbs. Residual Pressure valve goes to the FRONT disk brakes and the 10 lbs valve goes the the REAR drum brakes. I bought them on Amazon.com. There are several vendors that have them. I can dig up the exact order if you want. After 500 miles so far on these new disk brakes, I couldn't be more happier with them. Well worth the effort and cost.
@@FlatheadTerry Just installed the front brakes on my P4 Everything went well. and everything fit. I still need to finish the hydraulic lines. The Lines from NAPA did not work so I must have ordered the wrong hoses. The good news is, I was able to use my existing hoses. I reshaped the banjo fitting to fit. I will find out more when I pressure test them. For some reason Amazon would not sell me the 10 lb. pressure valve . Probably some stupid California law. Thanks again for all the information and the great video.
@@joenarduzzi591 Great to hear Joe! Bending and installing the brake lines to the residual pressure valves was a real challenge. I used a manual brake line bend tool multiple time to get the connections to line up. If not, they would leak. So be prepared gor this but it'll be worth it! Thanks for the update and kind words!
I used the same brake kit, and made all of my brake lines too. The only difference is mines a 47' Dodge Deluxe. I also took it a step further than you did by adding a dual MC instead of the stock single chamber.
Terry confused as to use 2 pds pressure valve on rear or front or both. Video said 10 pd proportioning valve to back and front ? thought disc takes more pressure ?
Hello Working on a plymouth p15 cupe 1947 which I saw you have done a conversion to disc brakes in the front and am a little interested in the same kit if you know where I can buy this or if I have to make my own. Thank you for the reply Mr. Peter
Terry, I have a 1936 Chrysler Airstream C8 that I want to convert. My issue is the spindle is a little larger on the 8 cylinder car. Everything else is the same except the spindle. Can you tell me what bearings I need to use with this kit?
Good question Jim. The inside bearing assembly (larger) are Timken Part Numbers LM67010 and LM67048. The outer is Timken Part Numbers LM11910 and LM11949. These are readily available. I hope this helps! Let me know if you have further questions.
@@FlatheadTerry I understand these are for the 1937 Plymouth but I was looking for help for my 1936 Chrysler Airstream C8 which has a slightly larger spindle. I think the rest of the kit would be the same it’s just finding bearings that will fit my spindle and fit the hub in the kit. Any help would be most appreciative
@@FlatheadTerry Terry found my notes spindle where inner bearing rides is 1.318 and outer is 0.894. Hoping you can help me. The car has only 34,856 miles but I’m not comfortable driving it with the drum brakes. Constantly pulling right or left. Thanks! Jim
I love the idea of front disc brakes for an old Plymouth. Mine is a 1935 PJ coupe and unfortunately the kit you used doesn't work for a "35. Is there any resonablely priced way to make it work on a '35?
Are you going to use original rims or aftermarket? This site has a kit but may not fit 14" rims. Spacers may be necessary to move the rims out away from the new caliper. www.tsmmfg.net/chrysler-desoto-dodge-plymouth-complete-car-front-disc-kit-1339.html
@@FlatheadTerry I want to use my original 10 slot 16" wheels. The $5OO+ price seems steep but this is a money hobby. You should do more videos' on your Plymouth. They're great learning tools. Thanks for the information. Russ
Ok, your 16's may fit with that kit. Russ. Check with them. Also, I already have 22 videos on this '37 Plymouth on my RUclips Channel with more on the way. Check them out and if you "Subscribe", it will bookmark the Channel for you so you can get notifications when I upload a new one.
Hi, do you know the part number to order because I search and only found 39-45 Plymouth I have 1937 Dodge coupe looks the same you have please let me know Thanks
Contact Scarebird directly. They are under new management since I did this upgrade so their part numbers may have changed. Review this episode carefully at the beginning to help identify your configuration. This upgrade is definitely worth the effort and cost if you plan on driving it daily like me. I prefer to not modify original classics but I did keep all the original parts for the future.
I have a 1936 Dodge Coupe with a Mustang ll frontend that still has the original 1936 Dodge Master Cylinder. Can you recommend a kit to convert it to a dual Master Cylinder? Thank You. Jim
Hey Jim, I haven't upgraded mine to a Dual Master yet. However, a friend of mine used the EC-441 Kit from ECI Hot Rod Brakes. He did have to do some tweaking to make it work, but he likes it. Here's the link --> ecihotrodbrakes.com/chrysler-master-cylinder-assemblies. Hope this helps! I took a short video of his setup. So if you or anyone else wants me to send it to you, email me at the flatheadterry@gmail.com.
Good informative video for folks interested in performing this upgrade. So far, so good with my original '38 brakes. I live in a hilly area too. I use engine compression a lot. I could see though, that an emergency braking situation for animals or kids could be a hair raising experience in these old cars. I probably drive like a moron, in the way of all the folks of the modern world. They are all in a hurry to get somewhere. I allow lots of extra space between cars and cruise at 25-30 mph 90% of the time. My smaller-ish home town (100K population) is fairly civilized. I've not had any near-misses yet. I get way more folks smiling and waving, as opposed to cursing and fingering me. Lol. Nice work here FH Terry.
Thanks Keith! Ya, the near-misses put me over the top in the decision. However, it's not for everyone that's for sure and I understand that. All my other stuff has drum brakes so I get it! I really enjoy driving it now and looking forward to a summer of cruising to "non-canceled" old car events.
@@FlatheadTerry i saw your jacket at the end of the vid with MU logo. Electronics huh? I suppose we will see a new ECU in the Plymouth or maybe the AA?😎
@@dieselten01 Can't remember where I got that MU jacket but it fits nice. Ha! I currently don't have any plans for any more upgrades. 6 volt generator and points for me!😁😁
@@frankjones6082 That's awesome. My right side hub had the outer bearing race come loose from the hub and rounded out the hub which was difficult to repair. So getting new hubs and bearings worked out for this project. Thanks for watching and the info.
Take the drum off the hub go to junkyard and find set of dodge or ford rotors make a caliper bracket and put on a chevy S10 caliper , so far I've done 3 37 Plymouth front axles
Hello : I have the same problem as another fellow here; all new parts put can't get any pedal on my 37' Plymouth. You recommended to him to bench-bleed his master. How is the best way to do that? Thank you
I use a "Bleeder Kit" on all my Master Cylinders. Take a look at 22:35 of this video: ruclips.net/video/XPRf6nnI8Ak/видео.htmlsi=Vv6et4DdlhvXzgJT This procedure really gets all of the air bubbles out whether it's performed in or out of the car. Also, I connect clear plastic tubing to the bleeder screws while bleeding all of the other brake cylinders. Helps see the bubbles until it's clear.
@tk-rn6ct Great question. I've been looking at options but they all need modifications to the frame and floor. Currently my single reservoir master is working perfectly so I'm reluctant to changing it out even if I do find a dual chamber.
WILL THIS BE THE SAME FOR MY 1938 DODGE ? ARE MY KNUCKLES THE SAME AS THE 1937 PLYMOUTH YOU DID THE DISC CONVERSION USING THE SCAREBIRD KIT? IF YES WHAT KIT. I HAVE 16 INCH WHEELS AND 5 BOLT ON. CONTACTED SCAREBIRD THEY SAID DONT HAVE A KIT FOR 1938 DODGE.????
I'm not sure if they're the same or not. Join and ask this question on the internet forums where someone with a '38 Dodge already performed this upgrade.
Good question Mike! I didn't measure before I started this but I can measure it now. I read online that it moved out 3/8" in total, but I can't confirm that.
@@FlatheadTerry had an old friend who called disc brakes "DISH brakes, the thing on the pole to get satellite TV was a satellite DISC.............you must be Nelson Hebert's relative, LOL
Being from Denmark, it is so impressing what You can get for You2 classic/vintage cars i USA. No more stopping issues, impressing work and informative as always.
Thank you Ole! I hope you can order these parts from the USA.
For those wondering what bearings this particular kit uses, here they are:
The inside bearing assembly (larger) are Timken Part Numbers LM67010 and LM67048.
The outer is Timken Part Numbers LM11910 and LM11949.
Terry - another awesome video! Thank you for taking the time to share all your work on video and explain as you go. Your videos and comments are inspirational. It is so nice to see your car on the road after you make upgrades and some maintenance. Keep up the great work!
Thank you very much David! I really appreciate your comments. I'm glad you enjoy them as much as I do producing them. I do like to help and inspire people to learn and complete their projects. Take care!
Very well done. Easy to follow. Very complete information. Considering doing a disk brake conversion on my 1956 Fury.
Thank you Emil! It is worth the effort in my opinion especially in today's traffic. '56 Fury's are cool. 😎
Awesome video. It will be a great help and guide when I tackle my 48 plymouth.
Great to hear! It'll be worth it!
Thank you for the great video. Lots of amazing tips and answered questions! Great job.
Thank you for the kind words. Glad you found it useful!
I used a Scarebird kit to put disc brakes in the front of my 1965 Rambler American, and while it won’t stop as well as my newer vehicles, they are a big improvement over the original drums. I like the fact that the kits they make use over the counter parts, saving money and also making replacement parts easy to get at any part store. Excellent job on video, you did a great job of showing how to do it. I totally understand wanting to upgrade the brakes, it just makes these old cars work better in the modern world.
Thanks for the kind words and support Nutt Farm! Great to see you've had success with yours too. Do you have a 290 or 390 in it?
@@FlatheadTerry I swapped in a 4.0 and 5 speed from a Jeep Cherokee complete with the fuel injection. It originally had a 232 with an automatic. I’m not against doing some upgrades.
@@nuttfarmgarage6434 That's kool! It's gotta be fast now with that setup!
The only downside to the scarebird kit on my car was they don't make one for the rear. I did however find a rear kit from wilwood. Funny thing is it fit my car perfectly but it isn't listed on their site at all.
I did this exact conversion for my 47' Dodge and I added a dual circuit MC too.
Good to see a Plymouth out there all you ever see is Ford's
Nice I just bought a 39 pontiac coupe. inspirational I hope to get mine running soon
Very nice work! 👏 ☆☆☆☆☆ Great video!☆☆☆☆☆
Cant wait to see the master cylinder replacement. Please can you show a setup of how you do a new brake installation and how you set up the pads and bleed the system to work. Mine is all original and rebuilt the brake system but can’t for the life of me get pressure. 36 Dodge mopar.
Thanks for the comment Barry. I'm still running the single chamber master cylinder with great results, so I originally thought I would have changed it out by now. I have no problems braking now with it running the front discs and drum rears. The pads have now "broken it" nicely after 500 miles so it stops very good now. The issue with yours sounds like the Master cylinder has air in the valve body. It took me well over 100 pumps when I bled it in my vise to clear all the air bubbles prior to installing it on the Coupe. Then more bleeding.
Thank you for creating and posting this video. It was well done.
Thank you Kastbarg!
Where did you order this conversion kit ? I have a 1937 Dodge sedan I would like to do the same thing to it..
It's listed in the Description and in the Video.
Another great video, thanks Terry.
Thank you Busted!
Good job- but surprised there was no backing plate to help keep the dirt out.
Agreed! It would be nice but I know I won't be driving it year round in adverse conditions. Thanks for the comment.
Really nice car, congratulations !!!. Regards.
What references did you use at Napa for calipers and rodrirs? Besides that great show Thankyou sir, look forward to the master cy show
I list them and all the part references in the beginning of the video.
Terry we just bought a 1937 Oldsmobile F37 will this kit work ? I am super excited with our new toy
I don't believe so.
@@FlatheadTerry do you have a direction you can point me to??
@@1neldogg I suggest contacting Scarebird directly. I see they used to have a 1940-52 Oldsmobile Kit (scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=62&product_id=203). They're under new management and have a new web site (www.scarebird.net) so there may be a delay in contacting them. There may be a way to modify the 1940-52 Oldsmobile Kit to fit your 1937. The mounting brackets are the most challenging part of these upgrades. Especially if you can keep your original Hub assembly. I wish I had a better answer for you!
Well done. Subscribed. I bet I learn lots about my 39 Dodge from your videos.
Scarebird told me I could punch out the residual valve in the stock master. I'm hesitant to do that. No dual master kits exist and I haven't removed my floor panel yet to see what space is actually available in the X frame area of the factory master. Have you done any digging under there yet?
Thanks Erik! For the dual chamber Master cylinder, ECI Hot Rod Brakes sells an under floor, bolt in kit for our Plymouths. Here's the link www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/chrysler_master_assemblies.html
Hmmm ....Might do this to mine!! thanks Terry nice video ! Sub
Thanks for subbing Buddy! Appreciate it. The conversion is worth it in my opinion. I kept all the original drum brake parts to keep with the coupe for the future. I like to keep it as original as possible and still drive it daily.
Hi Terry, I am just starting the project on my Plymouth P4 . In the video you say a 2 pound residual pressure valve but the video shows a 10 pound valve. which is correct? Where did you get the pressure valves and do you have part numbers? Thanks, Joe
Hey Joe! I realized after I did the filming that I said the wrong thing. The 2 lbs. Residual Pressure valve goes to the FRONT disk brakes and the 10 lbs valve goes the the REAR drum brakes. I bought them on Amazon.com. There are several vendors that have them. I can dig up the exact order if you want. After 500 miles so far on these new disk brakes, I couldn't be more happier with them. Well worth the effort and cost.
@@FlatheadTerry Just installed the front brakes on my P4 Everything went well. and everything fit. I still need to finish the hydraulic lines. The Lines from NAPA did not work so I must have ordered the wrong hoses. The good news is, I was able to use my existing hoses. I reshaped the banjo fitting to fit. I will find out more when I pressure test them. For some reason Amazon would not sell me the 10 lb. pressure valve . Probably some stupid California law. Thanks again for all the information and the great video.
@@joenarduzzi591 Great to hear Joe! Bending and installing the brake lines to the residual pressure valves was a real challenge. I used a manual brake line bend tool multiple time to get the connections to line up. If not, they would leak. So be prepared gor this but it'll be worth it! Thanks for the update and kind words!
I used the same brake kit, and made all of my brake lines too. The only difference is mines a 47' Dodge Deluxe. I also took it a step further than you did by adding a dual MC instead of the stock single chamber.
Use a 4 psi check valve , 10 psi is for drums
Terry confused as to use 2 pds pressure valve on rear or front or both. Video said 10 pd proportioning valve to back and front ? thought disc takes more pressure ?
I'm going to do this on my '55 & '56 Powells (1941 Plymouth Chassis). Really tired of stock brakes
Its worth the effort!
Hello Working on a plymouth p15 cupe 1947 which I saw you have done a conversion to disc brakes in the front and am a little interested in the same kit if you know where I can buy this or if I have to make my own. Thank you for the reply Mr. Peter
Go to Scarebird.com. Order the "DGE30" Kit.
Terry, I have a 1936 Chrysler Airstream C8 that I want to convert. My issue is the spindle is a little larger on the 8 cylinder car. Everything else is the same except the spindle. Can you tell me what bearings I need to use with this kit?
Good question Jim.
The inside bearing assembly (larger) are Timken Part Numbers LM67010 and LM67048.
The outer is Timken Part Numbers LM11910 and LM11949. These are readily available. I hope this helps! Let me know if you have further questions.
@@FlatheadTerry I understand these are for the 1937 Plymouth but I was looking for help for my 1936 Chrysler Airstream C8 which has a slightly larger spindle. I think the rest of the kit would be the same it’s just finding bearings that will fit my spindle and fit the hub in the kit. Any help would be most appreciative
@@JimKelley-oz7kd OK, whst are the diameters of your spindles?
@@FlatheadTerry I get those specs to you as soon as I find my notes. Thank you.
@@FlatheadTerry Terry found my notes spindle where inner bearing rides is 1.318 and outer is 0.894. Hoping you can help me. The car has only 34,856 miles but I’m not comfortable driving it with the drum brakes. Constantly pulling right or left. Thanks! Jim
I love the idea of front disc brakes for an old Plymouth. Mine is a 1935 PJ coupe and unfortunately the kit you used doesn't work for a "35. Is there any resonablely priced way to make it work on a '35?
Are you going to use original rims or aftermarket? This site has a kit but may not fit 14" rims. Spacers may be necessary to move the rims out away from the new caliper. www.tsmmfg.net/chrysler-desoto-dodge-plymouth-complete-car-front-disc-kit-1339.html
@@FlatheadTerry I want to use my original 10 slot 16" wheels. The $5OO+ price seems steep but this is a money hobby. You should do more videos' on your Plymouth. They're great learning tools. Thanks for the information. Russ
Ok, your 16's may fit with that kit. Russ. Check with them. Also, I already have 22 videos on this '37 Plymouth on my RUclips Channel with more on the way. Check them out and if you "Subscribe", it will bookmark the Channel for you so you can get notifications when I upload a new one.
@@FlatheadTerry Great information. I will subscribe. Thanks again. Love those old Plymouth!
Hi, do you know the part number to order because I search and only found 39-45 Plymouth I have 1937 Dodge coupe looks the same you have please let me know Thanks
Contact Scarebird directly. They are under new management since I did this upgrade so their part numbers may have changed. Review this episode carefully at the beginning to help identify your configuration. This upgrade is definitely worth the effort and cost if you plan on driving it daily like me. I prefer to not modify original classics but I did keep all the original parts for the future.
Hello again Terry. so it looks like Scarebird may not be sellingn those disc brake kits anymore. Anyn idea where a person could buy one? Thanx
ECI in Vernon CT offers a front brake conversion kit.
I have a 1936 Dodge Coupe with a Mustang ll frontend that still has the original 1936 Dodge Master Cylinder. Can you recommend a kit to convert it to a dual Master Cylinder? Thank You. Jim
Hey Jim, I haven't upgraded mine to a Dual Master yet. However, a friend of mine used the EC-441 Kit from ECI Hot Rod Brakes. He did have to do some tweaking to make it work, but he likes it. Here's the link --> ecihotrodbrakes.com/chrysler-master-cylinder-assemblies. Hope this helps!
I took a short video of his setup. So if you or anyone else wants me to send it to you, email me at the flatheadterry@gmail.com.
Good informative video for folks interested in performing this upgrade. So far, so good with my original '38 brakes. I live in a hilly area too. I use engine compression a lot. I could see though, that an emergency braking situation for animals or kids could be a hair raising experience in these old cars. I probably drive like a moron, in the way of all the folks of the modern world. They are all in a hurry to get somewhere. I allow lots of extra space between cars and cruise at 25-30 mph 90% of the time. My smaller-ish home town (100K population) is fairly civilized. I've not had any near-misses yet. I get way more folks smiling and waving, as opposed to cursing and fingering me. Lol. Nice work here FH Terry.
Thanks Keith! Ya, the near-misses put me over the top in the decision. However, it's not for everyone that's for sure and I understand that. All my other stuff has drum brakes so I get it! I really enjoy driving it now and looking forward to a summer of cruising to "non-canceled" old car events.
Terry did you go to Marquette University? I graduated there in 1984, Bus Ad. Another awesome vid, thanks
Hey Dieselten, thats cool that you went there. No, I did not go there but my friend did though! Believe it or not, I have a degree in Electronics.
@@FlatheadTerry i saw your jacket at the end of the vid with MU logo. Electronics huh? I suppose we will see a new ECU in the Plymouth or maybe the AA?😎
@@dieselten01 Can't remember where I got that MU jacket but it fits nice. Ha! I currently don't have any plans for any more upgrades. 6 volt generator and points for me!😁😁
Why can't you take off brake drum and use the org hub
The new Scarebird hub is designed to safely accept modern, off the shelf rotors.
@@FlatheadTerry I see because I did a 38 before using the org hub and match a rotor on the hub worked great and still going
@@frankjones6082 That's awesome. My right side hub had the outer bearing race come loose from the hub and rounded out the hub which was difficult to repair. So getting new hubs and bearings worked out for this project. Thanks for watching and the info.
@@FlatheadTerry nice videos
Take the drum off the hub go to junkyard and find set of dodge or ford rotors make a caliper bracket and put on a chevy S10 caliper , so far I've done 3 37 Plymouth front axles
Hello : I have the same problem as another fellow here; all new parts put can't get any pedal on my 37' Plymouth. You recommended to him to bench-bleed his master. How is the best way to do that? Thank you
I use a "Bleeder Kit" on all my Master Cylinders. Take a look at 22:35 of this video:
ruclips.net/video/XPRf6nnI8Ak/видео.htmlsi=Vv6et4DdlhvXzgJT
This procedure really gets all of the air bubbles out whether it's performed in or out of the car. Also, I connect clear plastic tubing to the bleeder screws while bleeding all of the other brake cylinders. Helps see the bubbles until it's clear.
@@FlatheadTerry Thank you so much. Any progress on the dual master cylinder ad on the 37' Plymouth?
@tk-rn6ct Great question. I've been looking at options but they all need modifications to the frame and floor. Currently my single reservoir master is working perfectly so I'm reluctant to changing it out even if I do find a dual chamber.
WILL THIS BE THE SAME FOR MY 1938 DODGE ? ARE MY KNUCKLES THE SAME AS THE 1937 PLYMOUTH YOU DID THE DISC CONVERSION USING THE SCAREBIRD KIT? IF YES WHAT KIT. I HAVE 16 INCH WHEELS AND 5 BOLT ON. CONTACTED SCAREBIRD THEY SAID DONT HAVE A KIT FOR 1938 DODGE.????
I'm not sure if they're the same or not. Join and ask this question on the internet forums where someone with a '38 Dodge already performed this upgrade.
Hi, by chance would you sell me the original drums?
I'd really like to keep them with the car. Contact me with the email I have listed in the "About" section of this RUclips Channel.
Is a 1934 sadan the same ?
I'm not sure. Contact Scarebird directly. They were very helpful with determining exactly what I needed.
Hi good afternoon, where did you get this brake kit conversion
I have all the information in the video.
Did the wheel end up in the same spot, or did it move outward? Thanks, nice video.
Good question Mike! I didn't measure before I started this but I can measure it now. I read online that it moved out 3/8" in total, but I can't confirm that.
Can you use the same kit on the rear?
Hi Chris, I don't believe this kit can be used on the rear. I checked Scarebird's web site and didn't see a kit for rear brakes for this vintages.
LOL, it's DISC brakes, not DISK brakes, too funny
Thanks for the correction Mark!
@@FlatheadTerry had an old friend who called disc brakes "DISH brakes, the thing on the pole to get satellite TV was a satellite DISC.............you must be Nelson Hebert's relative, LOL