75% Of Homeowners Are Unaware Of This Amazing Product
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- Опубликовано: 4 дек 2023
- Duct Seal (1 lb): amzlink.to/az07kmDJ2TZP8
I often use 100% silicone and spray foam to seam up holes and gaps in the exterior of my home but there is a product that works even better. Electricians for years have used this product to seal all sorts of applications but for some reason 3 out of 4 homeowners aren't even aware this product exists. Let me know
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Worked 48 yrs for a utility company 75% of the time we used duct seal outside to seal open end pipes, outdoor cold roll bends going into building foundations worked during all four seasons. Excellent product, excellent video 👍
Awesome testimony
Thanks man, I appreciate the feedback from your years of experience. You worked 48 years? Lineman?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs gas pipe installations, 1/2” to 48” low pressure to transmission pressure. Cast iron pipe from late 1800’s, steel, and polyethylene great experience. You do a fantastic job with hands on experience 👍
48 years? That usually means 20 years holding a clipboard! 😅@@EverydayHomeRepairs
@@schutzhund3933 I think you’re right 👍🏽 at least 20 years with the clipboard! Although, some of us start early. For example; when I was 27 years old I already had 20 years experience in my trade/profession.
How can this be? In my case: I continued the “family business”. Simple as that. Literally, been doing it since I was a kid.
As a retired 22+ electrician we used it all the time interior and exterior. We used to call it "C4". Good stuff. If you have a larger hole, pack it with steel wool 1st. Mice can't chew through steel wool
Thanks for the tip on steel wool 👍
ok, Mr Master, could you teach me, what the steel wool is? when you say ''pack it", you mean, mix with the duct seal ? thank you.
Brilliant! Thanks man!
LOL "C4" Nice touch. WARNING, Steel Wool Rusts, crumbles, falls away, leaving hole Open Again. Had to put wire mesh, [SS Screening] in first to hold S wool up, perhaps metal issue? i'm slow, learned hard way; Not strong enough Screen either.
Know any way to hinder\stop rusting, *please advise. Thanks*
As an employee of a major HVAC manufacturer and distributor, duct seal is commonly used for both interior and exterior use in installation!
Thanks for the feedback, that is what I have seen in my area as well
So duct seal is an employee of a major HVAC manufacturer and distributor?
@@paulparomaYes. Duct Seal works on the line with Emerson Biggins.
@@BigBuckGetter Of course! I should have known.;)
Is it Butyl rubber?
The US Navy introduced me to this product in about 1964. In that environment it was commonly known as “Monkey $h!t”. A valuable asset indeed. The most common usage was on penetrations between watertight compartments on surface ships and submarines. These penetrations passed vital cabling and piping systems both internal and external to the watertight hull and other compartments. I have personally been in situations when this material served as life saving equipment. During application, if you wet your fingers and smooth the external surface of the product, a shiny, weather shedding surface will be created. This stuff lasts for many years. I still use this product for home and auto applications of all kinds.
we still call it that you old salt. but we have to call it Nepseal just so the supply guys can order it!🤣
This is very interesting. Thank you for sharing. But about critical situations (life-saving equipment)? Could you provide more details? I suspect it's a good insulator, but I'm not sure if it can withstand high pressure.
Wasn’t this on Shark Tank?
My dad did a career in subs retiring in the late 1980s and called this stuff the same thing.
@@priceandpride No
This is a great product, I used it for installing a shower / bathtub faucet in the 70s. When I hat to change this faucet 45 years later, this sealant was in as good condition as when I installed it back then. I did not hesitate to use that same stuff again for the new faucet.
The electrician that installed a new line into my basement used duct seal on the exterior where the line entered the house. That was 10 or more years ago, and its still pliable and still keeping the rain out. Thanks for the video.....
I retired from the phone company. We used duct seal to seal up ducts in manholes. When I retired 25 years ago, I grabbed a couple of bars for myself. After 25 years it’s still good! It’s great outdoors too. Hasn’t dried up in 25 years ! When I need it, it’s always there. I also use it like “museum putty”,
Same TELCO experience here in TEXAS with manhole runs as well as conduits in pedestals and building equipment room conduits. It was easy to spot because we could order it and keep some handy in our truck supply bins. Only difference was that ours came in SLIME GREEN, very easy to spot when supervisors ran quality checks. Electricians also used it as FIRE STOP which was a HOT PINK compound .
I was going to ask questions about this, but the comments have already been answering them! Thanks for bringing this product to wider attention!
Thanks for this video! I've used the spray stuff and it doesn't last long and as mentioned it's hard to control. Will definitely buy this when I do my spring checklist.
GREAT timing! I was just about to use spray foam on a tricky section of electrical conduit that comes off of my septic pump. This seams like I could get the job done under much better control! Thanks Scott!
That’s a good point.
Great video and I love when you pointed out about the exterior use. I’m a retired electrician and I’ve used this item a lot and it does work well except over time it does seem to shrink thus no seal anymore. Maybe if it is used to seal the penetration from the inside and maybe some kind of silicone on the outside it may last longer. Again a Great video!
This is my favorite DIY channel. You have an uncanny way of posting videos about projects I’m just about to start. This happens almost every week, it’s unbelievable. Well done and much appreciated!
I've been a homeowner for 20 years and never heard of this. I do remember that my HVAC line into the house may have had this stuff on. I will check this out at the big box store. thanks,
Good stuff Scott. Easy to use and forgiving as you say. Like this better than the foam spray as you can use as little as you need for small jobs. Not so with the spray foam!
This is a great product and I discovered it by accident a few months ago while shopping at Menards in the electrical section. Thanks for highlighting this excellent sealant.
Yeah, Menards is about half priced compared to Lowe's and Home Depot 👍
I've used it for filling in voids around the outside... Using it to fill under bottom of siding where it meets the foundation...Critters like to try to gain access so that's great material to fill any access holes ...It's paintable also
For the wires in the panel, it might also be worth mentioning that a great place to seal that up is actually at the LB entering your house. You can seal the inside of the conduit there, and there should not be any junctions there, so the wires are fully insulated.
I was just going to mention the same thing until I saw your post. When I had my 100A fuse box replaced with a 200A box, and the electrical inspector came out, he suggested I pack the LB with the sealant. 30 years later, the inside of my breaker panel still looks like new with no rust/corrosion or bugs which was unlike my old fuse box since it was not sealed. When you run things like vent fans and clothes dryers, that makeup air needs to enter somewhere into the home. One spot will be through the conduit if it's not sealed. If it's hot and humid outside and that air enters into your breaker panel, it can condense on the metal parts causing them to corrode and rust.
@@1957mrbill How true! My basement would get so cold in the winter when the wind was from the right direction. In the end, it was sealing up the inside of the LB that fixed the problem.
I bought a block for a sealing the inlet of an electric meter fitting on a renovation job several years ago. Since then, I have used it on other projects that require sealing out water.
A low-key hero around here wherever there's an exterior wall penetration.
Good vid.
Thank you for this video. My HVAC used this to seal the PVC exhaust and intake for my furnace when it was installed a 4 or 5 years ago. It needs a little attention and I could not figure out for the life of me what it was!
Great stuff and I have used it for a long time and for exterior purposes!
Duct seal is made from organic ingredients, which is why it's not ideal for exterior applications. Use Butyl tape (applies in a similar manner), as it's designed for exterior and UV applications.
Duct seal is a butyl rubber compound, and so it is not resistant to UV radiation. It should be protected from exposure to sunlight for long life.
@@kurtm.7494 either paint, or a urethane or acrylic caulk, opaque.
Your videos are the best. The wiring videos have helped me a lot
I used Duct Seal to better seal my A/C refrigerant lines set entering my home. The lines are covered with a sheet metal cover, and the sheet metal cover is sealed with silicone like elastomeric sealant, but I wanted the hole in the wall under the cover to be better sealed to prevent moisture and bug intrusion. I packed the Duct Seal in; I imagine it'll last a long time being covered and not exposed to sunlight and water. I painted the silicone sealant, so that should hold up really well too. 👍👍👍
I would say so 👍
I go to these extremes to prevent water damage. Back in 2021 I had to deal with a water damage problem in my kitchen. It cost me $8K to fix it all. Don't want to have to deal with that again.@@EverydayHomeRepairs
You're right. I used "silicone like" DAP Dynaflex 230 Premium Elastomeric Interior Exterior Sealant. It's paintable in 2 hrs after application. @@kurtm.7494
You’re one of the top shelf instructors on here . Thx
Videos like this is the reason I love RUclips! Thx 👍
You bet 👍
Nice. Very useful. Wasn't aware of this. I can think of several places to use it. Thanks!
We have used it for 30+ years in southern California for things from sealing exterior walls to keeping manholes from rocking.
Thanks for the feedback!
Never heard of this. Thank you! I have holes here and there. Excellent video!
Electrical company used that goop to seal around the vertical conduit coming into the meter box about 20 years ago when my house was upgraded to 200 amp service. I kind of laughed inwardly as I watched one of the workers forming it in a cone shape, thinking "that stuff ain't gonna last - it's just Play-doh." But after 20 years of being bombarded with rain and sun, it still looks as good as the day it was applied. (And it wasn't painted over.)
I think one of the "secrets" to applying products such as this (I use Alex Flex caulk, for example) is to take your time and smush the product in tight with a finger and treat it as if it were a car paint repair blend at the edges. Neatness counts, but not just for aesthetic reasons. Caulk will fail if you don't do this - whether it's painted over or not - otherwise it will last and last, if it's a quality product to begin with.
I've seen this used all over, but I've also seen contractors and DIYers use plumbing stainless putty the same way. No idea what the chemical differences are, but I had an old building inspector tell me plumbing putty is the easiest, but good to best quality goes stainless putty to duct seal to butyl rope (best). I do agree that the putties don't always last if placed in direct sunlight unprotected.
So THAT'S what this stuff is! It seals the line from the street going into the top of the meter. Looks pretty cracked and I'm worried about rain.
Thank You!
Good deal. I'm going to use it for exterior use in the desert. We'll see if it holds up.
I have helped install roof panels that were metal and we used something just like that for keeping the roof panels from rattling and side blowing water leaks and it made the job easier because when we had put a new panel down we could walk on it and it was basically stuck down and we could move it if we needed to change something . It was probably the same thing we used it for soundproofing on ductwork in the same building . Was completely water resistant if it was adhered to its surface .
Excellent suggestion! Thanks.
I was told by my roofer that spray foam as an exterior sealant is a bad idea. It's permeable so it can suck in moisture and that can cause mold in dry wall bays. I've been using Quad but I'll give this sealant a try. Thanks.
When I was looking for caulking for my house to use on the windows, I kept finding Sashco Big Stretch which is supposed to hold up better compared to other caulking. Supposed to do up to 2inch. If possible, I would like to see them compared over time.
I am an Amateur Radio operator, we use a very similar compound called CoaxSeal (nicknamed "Dinosaur Sh!t") to seal connectors on antennas. I have had antenna installations, some over 60 feet in the air, up for years - the connections were well protected from moisture. I usually cover the antenna connection with good quality electrical tape to help prevent drying. I have used Duct Seal to seal the cable entrances to the house with great success.
Seal the inside of the conduit too when transitioning thermal zones. When doing commercial refrigeration work, I was always impressed by light bulbs burning under water in ceiling mounted weatherproof light fixtures with a glass globe which were installed inside walk in freezers and the conduit wasn't properly sealed by the electricians (which was almost always the case).
Ok, You got me. I consider myself a very knowledgeable DIYer and I've never heard of it. I've always put some caulk in the hole, cover the caulk with stucco and then cover the stucco with paint. But that stuff could be a great one-step fix.
I use it to seal wires at the ends of conduits, especially in underground "hand holes" to prevent water from moving through the conduits and into places you do not want water.
Also works to control septic gasses that might migrate from the pump chamber and into the electrical control panels.
And helps keeps bugs from migrating into electrical control panels through the conduits.
Pack an LB or "condulet" body with the stuff, and not much will be able to get through.
had a repair call where the original installer put the septic control panel below the elevation of the tank. the control panel now has C condulets below it, with the conduits packed with duct seal, and weep holes drilled in them, and then the fittings into the panel also packed, and weep holes in the panel.
Can you use Duct Seal on wires themselves? I have a short, somewhere in my old Tacoma. Last night, my headlights came on/stayed on until I pulled the fuses. I'm planning on using WD-40 unless you recommend something better and then something to seal any wire breaks that I find. Any help that you can offer is appreciated.
@@arcanondrum6543 duct seal would be useless for that. if there is wire damage, liquid electrical tape would be an option. you'd want to be sure the wire was clean, before applying it. and even thin, it isn't abrasion resistant, so you'd want to go over it actual tape - and of course, fix what caused the problem.
addendum: to make it clear, duct seal has the consistency of play-doh. it's used to plug holes, and as long as it is held in place, it slows down water or air infiltration enough to deflect moisture intrusion. its not air or watertight, and it falls off easily.
Always great information from your channel
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I just used some last week to hold a disc capacitor in place on a pcb board while I soldered it. Then, it easily comes off the board. Works great.
I worked as a meterman for years. We used duct seal on the entrance cable entering the meter socket. I would dry out eventually. We were responsible for maintaining the meter equipment so we replaced the DS when we noticed it was dried and cracked.
I suggest that in addition to keeping the clay wrapped, store it in a vacuum sealed mason jar or one of those jars that clamp down and have a gasket. It will ensure it doesn't dry out.
How are you “vacuum sealing” your mason jar? You using some kind of vacuum pump?
Easy to tell someone who has no clue, they make stupid comments that are impractical to implement.
@@stevebabiak6997lol…jeez man, a little harsh maybe ? 😂 He probably should have said use something with an air tight lid, but he did still manage to get some thumbs up for the suggestion. But even a ziplock bag would be overkill. This stuff doesn’t dry out.
@@billdivine9501 - ziplock bag to keep dust and debris from sticking to it. As you said, it remains pliable even when exposed to air.
where i live, rigid conduit isn't required for ser cable, it's fed directly into the meter box from above. every single one i've ever seen had duct seal around the cable and connector on the top
As a telecommunications installer we used it and then changed to silicone
When my father-in-law helped us replace an outdoor spigot, he used Great Stuff to seal around the pipe and we hadn't had any issue. I think I may pick up that product for extra insurance because in the Blue Ridge mountains of Virginia, it has it own weather system that can seesaw between lovely, spring day to downright bitter cold in matter of 24 hours.
Yeah, it is nice to have a 1 lb block handy. Should be less than $5. Menards in my area it is only about $2.75 for a block.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Unfortunately, we only have Harbor Freight, Home Depot, and Lowe's in town. However, in an earlier part of your video, it looked like you picked up a block from Lowe's.
Last three contractors used this on my house. I recently found this in HD but I used a combination of Silicone and Duckseal.
Awesome. Never heard of this stuff before. Thanks!
You bet!
I got a little nervous for you watching you wave your hand around that open electrical box without looking.
This was used to seal where air conditioner line enters my house. I replaced it after 7 years, so did last long time.
Thanks for the feedback
How had it failed?
It is in very exposed area. sun heat caused it to dry and pull away from house siding.. My replacement is still good at 5 years.
In my area the electrical inspectors want you to at least seal one side of any electrical penetration coming in and out of a house. So either the lb on the outside or the TA on the interior going to the panel needs to be sealed with duct seal.
Another similar product that cures solid with metal reinforcement would be epoxy putty. Some common ones are made by ProPoxy 20, Oatey Fix-it-stick or JB Weld. Most can be painted too.
Another option that my electrician recommended is hydraulic cement. It's pretty inexpensive, and you can get it in a small bucket that keeps it dry until you need it. Then you just mix enough water to make it like clay and apply the same way you did. Less forgiving though, in that it dries hard and solid. But works great.
Excellent recommendation. Thanks for the tip!
You bet!
Freezing temps combined with difference in expansion rates between the duct seal and exterior material will break it loose and you'll lose the water-tight seal. Not that this isn't a problem with many other types of sealant methods, though.
Working on merchant ships, duct seal is used to keep water from pooling inside watertight penetrations. I have experienced that it does dry out and crack when subject to direct UV (such as on top of the bridge, etc.). To combat this, I've seen Denso tape used on top of duct seal to protect it from UV. I've also seen silicone used instead, but silicone fails much sooner (at least on brass connectors). Maybe silicone works better on PVC? Don't know.
I used something similar marked as draft stopper for windows. It was a folded up 3 ft strip of putty like material that you peel off licorice like strips. Same thing?
Great product information. Thanks!
Happy to help!
Thanks, I didn't know about this stuff.
Thumb Gum used it for years in HVAC work....good stuff
"Tool Belt of Knowledge " should be the name of your second channel. Great stuff man, thanks!
I have 35 years of experience in the electrical field. After I applied duct seal I used a little bit of silicone caulking on the duct seal. Without it the duct seal dries out and cracks. I've gone back to meany years later and ind the stuff was still good.
Thanks, good video!
I’ve used this on my RV in place of the gum tape for years and had no issues that I know of. In some cases I prefer duct seal over the gum tape the industry uses.
Thank you - again! I will buy this tomorrow.
You bet!
Thank you I will try it ASAP.
Best of luck!
Is butyl tape an acceptable alternative? I've used that when installing an enclosure for my outdoor lawn sprinkler controller.
I have used this for exterior sealing for many years, works great. I have no idea why it's not rated for exterior use. Maybe in dryer climates it will dry out and crack. I haven't seen that happen yet.
Yeah, that is my guess as well.
That was a handy tip.
I don't know if all spray foam does, but some when used on exterior, will break down in sunlight after a time.
Also some people say that mice will start eating the spray foam. I never had this problem but common feedback on the channel.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thanks, I've always wondered about that.
I just had a solar system installed and the electrician used duct seal inside and out and it was just inspected yesterday and the inspector seemed to have no issue with exterior use.
Scott, could this Duct Seal and Putty Pad be of similar material, and both dielectric/insulating?
Works great, learned about it here.
I've seen it used with. or without a Meyers hub on a service entrance or a meter pan.
So I have my electrical mast that goes down into the electrical panel, right at the exterior wall. It comes down thru a metal roof. It already had some kind of putty sealant around it that extends about six inches up from the roof. About 5 years ago, I added on top of what was there. I used that Flexseal, which did seem to work well. This past summers heat (many days over 100 degrees), seem to have shrunk it , and I need to do a reapplication. I can water on the brick exterior after a rain. Seems that the sealant in this video would not be what I am looking for since you said it is not for external use. Is Flexseal the best stuff to use or is there something better. Also, should I remove what is already around the mast and start over or just apply what is there already...Thanks in advance!
Hi Scott - Never even heard of this stuff but I have a few places where it will come in very handy. Great video! 👍🏼
Awesome, thanks for the feedback.
It is a requirement to have Duct Seal on top of the Raintight fitting atop the meter channel which is typically outdoors. We also use it on the inside of condulets where they are used to penetrate the wall of a structure from the outside. This aids in combating condensation from forming due to cold air which not only flows but conducts a path before meeting the warm interior air.
I use Lexel clear as an alternative to silicone. I won't post selling points as I'm not a salesman for the product but I've used it for: controls, security and electrical installations. I've also used it for carpentry although I'm not a carpenter.
When you have everything from bugs and critters to the elements working on getting into your structure - 24/7/365 - you want something that will last.
Duct seal will age and form a hardened skin where exposed to the elements. Depending on the length of time exposed you can either remove that film or work it in to the rest and reuse it.. It's a personal choice.
We use it out side all the time works great.
Hi Scott, what would you use as a second alternative to the legrand contractor grade receptacle when it can't be found. My parents want to replace some of their old receptacles but they don't want the square/TR ones but the old style and I can't find legrand anywhere (in Canada).
Eaton would be my #2 then Leviton my #3.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs thanks! Love your videos.
Thanks, very helpful video
You bet!
Tool belt of KNOWLEDGE! You were giving off mandatory annual training vibes with that one Scott.
Nice, in IL as well, buying it now!
👊
keep in mind that duct seal is not adhesive. the reason it is used to seal electrical conduits is because it can easily be pulled back out if the wiring needs to be changed. that means if there is vibration or movement, the seal will pull away.
Very cool. I can't believe I've never heard of this before!
I know, electricians are keeping it all for themselves 😂
Can I use as a fire break for soldering?
My brother was in HVAC for years, and gave me some of that. He called it "thumb gum". Lasts for years as far as ive experienced
Large Communications Buildings use the stuff as a Fire Block where conduit or cable is going between separate areas.
this goo is absolutely amazing!
Nice Emporia setup!
Thanks!
FWIW, some Amazon duct seal products say it can be used outdoors too.
Perhaps cover it with foil or some flashing if possible outside to help protect it from UV?
I’ve used clear silicone, but It easily peels off after a year or two in the sun. I’ve had excellent results with a product called OSI clear I’ve had it last three years and it still looks perfect. It comes in a caulk tube like silicone cost a little bit more, but it’s my secret weapon
Can it be used in a kitchen to seal rangehood ducting?
We bought our house here in Maryland in 2001 and the electricians have sealed the electrical and actually gas lines using this product on the exterior. It's 2023 and the product is still pliable and is still there.
I those applications, I’ve had great luck with GE Silicone II.
can this be used to stop small water leaks?
How does it compare to butyle rubber? Or is that what it is? Sounds very similar.
Perfect timing as my hose pip needs fixing