Due to my unique lounge setup, it would be easier for me to accomodate 2x 2S rather than even just 1 2V. Do you think 2x 2S would deliver comparable result to 1 x 2V?
Dude. You nailed it!! After all 3 of your videos, you completely covered every aspect of comparison and output levels on both subs!! I’m soo glad you did this last video with the detailed comparison side by side and I think you absolutely described exactly what these subs do for every scenario! 🎉 you rock!! Ok now ya just need to get those newer subs in like the new hsu sub, the Perlisten R18S, the Starke Sw15 sealed 15”, and the new KEF KC92 9” sub (this is smaller than you’re usual subs, but I’d really like to see if it lives up to their claims!). And lastly, have you ever tested the Sunfire Xteq dual 12” ?? I’d be extremely curious to see you compare that with the Arendal sealed sun! Thank you! 🎉
Honestly, there is no sound difference between ported and sealed subwoofers, with all things equal. These subwoofers use the same drivers and amp, so they sound identical. The only difference is in their output capabilities.
sealed and vented are more similar than showed here, you compressed the whole graph for one point with compression. then the low bass output the sealed has more linear response, if all three subwoofer configurations was eq'ed to have same flatness then you would see on the graphs how it really is. but for out of the box max volume your testing shows how that would sound, but i always recommend eq to flat by ear and that equalize all subwoofers types, and for me that is at the lowest hz i want played back, where i recommend 15hz as baseline. lower if you expect more from many huge subwoofers.
You should never eq anything by ear, especially if you are doing a comparison with other products. If you are going to eq something, it should always be done using measurements. The reason I don't calibrate a subwoofer before comparing it, is because everyone's room calibration software is different, and their results could greatly vary. I show the raw output of the subwoofers without calibration, because everyone's room is also different. If I were to calibrate the subwoofers first using room calibration, that could also effect the compression testing. It would change where they compressed based on where the room calibration is boosting the signal, or cutting the signal to obtain the flat response. I appreciate the comment, but calibrating a subwoofer before a comparison, is not a good way to compare, and it would change the results. That being said, in the future, I would like to provide CEA2010 measurements, which completely removes the room from the equation. But that takes a lot of work and effort that just isn't feasible for me ATM.
@@SpecOfTech you review approach is good, that is not my point to change too much of that. but the statements about the results you think you get from it is a bit too general and misleading. there is a gap between home user and the reviewer, just be aware of that and add more review tools and techniques.
i have 3 subs--- 2 ported 1 sealed--- they all blend in perfectly--- it doesnt matter what you have--- just EQ it and do your room correction and happy days, mine sound awesome for both music and movies--- there is no wrong choice--- just get good ones
The JTR CAP2400 is overall the better subwoofer. It has a lot more output in the lower octaves, if that is what you are looking for. At 10hz it has about 11DB more output in my room. The 2V does have a little more output in the higher octaves in my room, but not much. The Arendal does have a nicer aesthetic IMO, but the JTR still looks good. If you want the most overall output, get the JTR. If looks matter, get the Arendal.
If waf matters - then I would say the 2v is a monster compared to 2s. Im still amazed what this “little” one can do compared to the big one ! Wife will never allow 2v but 2s should be doable. I just need sub that can pull 20 hz and a little below. The 2s surely can do that. I never play that loud - again wife 😜 so 2s would be my next sub.
Thanks for the detailed review! Great as always!
There's several 1S vs 1V and 2S vs 2V reviews now. I'm curious how the 2S compares with 1V...
Due to my unique lounge setup, it would be easier for me to accomodate 2x 2S rather than even just 1 2V. Do you think 2x 2S would deliver comparable result to 1 x 2V?
If you could get the 1723 2v or the Perlisten D212 which one would you buy?
That’s hardly a comparison. Perlisten is leagues above arendal. Not at all saying arendal is not a good product. They’re in different categories.
Dude. You nailed it!! After all 3 of your videos, you completely covered every aspect of comparison and output levels on both subs!! I’m soo glad you did this last video with the detailed comparison side by side and I think you absolutely described exactly what these subs do for every scenario! 🎉 you rock!!
Ok now ya just need to get those newer subs in like the new hsu sub, the Perlisten R18S, the Starke Sw15 sealed 15”, and the new KEF KC92 9” sub (this is smaller than you’re usual subs, but I’d really like to see if it lives up to their claims!). And lastly, have you ever tested the Sunfire Xteq dual 12” ?? I’d be extremely curious to see you compare that with the Arendal sealed sun! Thank you! 🎉
Great video, thanks. Does the 2S sound better for music than the 2V in either mode?
Honestly, there is no sound difference between ported and sealed subwoofers, with all things equal. These subwoofers use the same drivers and amp, so they sound identical. The only difference is in their output capabilities.
Thx for this comparison!
No problem!
What are the speakers you have set up behind you?
Legacy Audio Aeris towers and Legacy Marquis XD center channel.
sealed and vented are more similar than showed here, you compressed the whole graph for one point with compression.
then the low bass output the sealed has more linear response, if all three subwoofer configurations was eq'ed to have same flatness then you would see on the graphs how it really is.
but for out of the box max volume your testing shows how that would sound, but i always recommend eq to flat by ear and that equalize all subwoofers types, and for me that is at the lowest hz i want played back, where i recommend 15hz as baseline. lower if you expect more from many huge subwoofers.
You should never eq anything by ear, especially if you are doing a comparison with other products. If you are going to eq something, it should always be done using measurements. The reason I don't calibrate a subwoofer before comparing it, is because everyone's room calibration software is different, and their results could greatly vary. I show the raw output of the subwoofers without calibration, because everyone's room is also different. If I were to calibrate the subwoofers first using room calibration, that could also effect the compression testing. It would change where they compressed based on where the room calibration is boosting the signal, or cutting the signal to obtain the flat response. I appreciate the comment, but calibrating a subwoofer before a comparison, is not a good way to compare, and it would change the results.
That being said, in the future, I would like to provide CEA2010 measurements, which completely removes the room from the equation. But that takes a lot of work and effort that just isn't feasible for me ATM.
@@SpecOfTech you review approach is good, that is not my point to change too much of that.
but the statements about the results you think you get from it is a bit too general and misleading.
there is a gap between home user and the reviewer, just be aware of that and add more review tools and techniques.
i have 3 subs--- 2 ported 1 sealed--- they all blend in perfectly--- it doesnt matter what you have--- just EQ it and do your room correction and happy days, mine sound awesome for both music and movies--- there is no wrong choice--- just get good ones
How do they compare to the Jtr 2400? I have to buy a new subwoofer and I am struggling between Arendal 1723 2v and the Jtr2400
The JTR CAP2400 is overall the better subwoofer. It has a lot more output in the lower octaves, if that is what you are looking for. At 10hz it has about 11DB more output in my room. The 2V does have a little more output in the higher octaves in my room, but not much. The Arendal does have a nicer aesthetic IMO, but the JTR still looks good. If you want the most overall output, get the JTR. If looks matter, get the Arendal.
@@SpecOfTech Thx a lot man! Great answer and exactly what I am looking for! Thank you so much
If waf matters - then I would say the 2v is a monster compared to 2s. Im still amazed what this “little” one can do compared to the big one ! Wife will never allow 2v but 2s should be doable. I just need sub that can pull 20 hz and a little below. The 2s surely can do that. I never play that loud - again wife 😜 so 2s would be my next sub.
#Bass !!!