If you want access to my calibration test files and a guide on how to use them and calibrate your printer for the best accuracy, you can find everything here on my website: My Calibration and Test files: vector3d.co.uk/store/3D-Printing-Help-c125254079
I can't be the only one who desperately wants these discord-based support systems to be replaced with a public and searchable forum, right? Even a subreddit would be better, IMO. Less discussion and community feeling than discord, but it would at least make things much more accessible.
A subreddit wouldn't be optimal, forums are still the way to go there, but definitely better than a discord It's so easy for questions to be drowned out by random chatter
It honestly looks very impressive. The only thing that sucks about the Bambu Labs is the printer is pretty much 99% proprietary/non standard parts. Its the complete opposite of voron that is built entirely of parts you can piece together yourself and customize. But i have still been super impressed with the bambu labs videos ive seen.
it's literally like the DJI or Apple of 3D printers. works great out of the box but can't really do much about it once it starts breaking, you're tied to Bambu labs for parts and/or support.
In case you missed the note in the video, this is a shortened version of the full review which was an hour long. You can find the original here if you want ALL the juicy details: ruclips.net/video/QnEb8VnWDcA/видео.html
Input shaping was a big reason I opted to get the V-Core 3, and yet the accelerometer isn't included in the kit and there's no mention of how to mount it to the extruder or wire it to the board.
The question is simple. Do you want to tinker or just print? Just print, get the bamboo carbon. I prefer the voron because if it breaks it is easy to source parts as well. Buying a bamboo means doing business with them anytime something goes wrong.
I followed you when I was building my own Voron and I got stuck. Doesn’t work don’t know why and have not got the time to sort it. Will have another go when I have the time. To be honest Its a hell of a lot more complicated than buying a prebuilt printer like a Prusa or a creality printer. It’s not been a happy build for me to be honest. The software is a bit confusing. I will check your firmware and see if that sorts it.
I got some help from discord but the issues are too time consuming for me to sort just now. It’s been too much for me just now. Maybe later. But just now I just want to give up on it.
@@clayton9341 I am considering it as an option but I would have to sell it uk as it’s far too big to post, it would have to be picked up, it could be some part is actually faulty but to be honest I think it’s a software issue. I would love to get this running but I lack the time and ability to fix it. Only other possibility in my opinion is a bad connection so would have to test each one and that’s time consuming, bought that fancy harness and fancy touchscreen. It guts me I cannot sort this after spending so much money on it.
@@paulmilne3038 I'm in the last steps of building my printer so most is still fresh, we could debug it together over discord chat if you'd like. Otherwise you could probably sell it locally if you live in a decently sized city/town, I was able to find voron people to print my parts out locally so seems finding interested people isn't too difficult
Quick question: if using klipper firmware, then what 'flavor' do you select in Cura slicer for your machine firmware as Klipper does not currently appear as an option. Or is Marlin close enough (I realize that the gcode start line and end lines get replaced in the machine config.)
You are comparing a kit to a self source printer, looks like ratrig cheaped out on their kits, a real vcore wouldn't be too different from the voron in terms of quality
I would just want to double check regarding the range of the probing of the heat bed: Are you sure that the range you measured is 0.0160mm and not 0.160mm as worst? :) When I probe the bed on my CR10SProV2 I get very happy if I see at most +-0.050mm offsets, but almost always I see 0.100-0.150mm as worst (which is quite close to one layer height...). If you haven't accidentally added one zero too many in your range then I really have to order one of those machines now...
Its a combination of esun ABS and ABS+ blue. I have to say though, it has been quite inconsistent performance. I'd probably recommend Ooznest ABS, better quality and great colours too. They have a blue that's very close to this as well.
These printers are really the best you can get for that money. Prusa MK3 kit is still a lot more affordable and easier to assembly but if you are planning to make it your hobby or business, you are probably better off getting one of these.
@@lonsdale16op The MK3 doesn't make much sense for those of us who consider 3D printing to be a hobby in and of itself. It shines, however, for people who need to use a 3D printer for their business or for their actual hobbies. An assembled MK3 can be pulled out of the box and within minutes it's ready to start printing pretty much indefinitely with virtually no maintenance. The design is simple but robust, and Prusa has tuned the hell out of it and put everything into pre-configured profiles in their slicer. It takes weeks or even months for newer folks to build and fully tune a Voron.
i don't know why people like the Prusas when they're essentially glorified ender3s? for 1k i'd take a voron, or the bambu labs x1c if you just cared about printing and not so much about tinkering with your printer..
Prusa makes sense in some ways, a lot like how a bamboo carbon does. Some people just want to print stuff and not tinker with the printer. Prusa gives a nice ecosystem and a lot of pretuned profiles. It's a printer that does it's job very consistently. A voron was meant for those of us who like to build and like to tinker and modify. It's meant to be an over engineered highly customized experience... You don't build a voron, you build YOUR voron.
.. let's be honest.. these kits are not meant for beginners.. so complaining things like lube instructions, programming, defaults, slicer settings, etc is a bit asinine. people buying these kits are expected to know what they're doing. slicer settings alone are different even on basic Ender3 printers, so expecting a one size fits all slicer setting from manufucturers is ridiculous. i understand that this was about 1 year ago by now, but you can now buy the Bambulab X1Carbon for relatively the same price as a Voron kit. That's pretty much the only true 'print straight out of the box' printer you can get today. down side is your now tied to the bambulabs ecosystem, except for the filament basically..
I would disagree, the 2.4 being suspended on belts is pretty damped.... I'm on a stockish voron and I'm running 6k accelerations with excellent everyday printing results... Even pushing up into 8k accelerations I get Okay results. I don't think vibration is a real issue until it gets moving extremely fast. Like print a benchy in 17 minutes fast. The current settings can print a very nice benchy at 24 minutes. Another excellent thing is it is using dual rails on x which really helps the toolhead be stable.
I don't think I am alone in questioning this review of products for comparison as they don't implement the same Z motion system... If your trying to compare, you should compare the 1.8 (Trident now) and the Rat Rig... Also you don't mention tuning for either printer prior to comparing prints. PLA might be a plastic people choose to begin with, but with an advanced printer with an enclosure like these most likely will be printing advanced filaments, such as ASA, ABS, Nylon's, etc..
Yeah I don't really print a lot of pla on my voron. Why would I when abs is easier to print abs and it comes out looking nicer then pla... Oh and abs is cheaper too. A voron was explicitly meant for abs printing.
I love my vorons. However I do modify them for my own needs. The Voron Community is highly toxic though with way too many armchair engineers who want to throw their 2 cents in every post. I have been printing and building printers for 10 years but there is always someone in the voron group telling me Im doing it wrong LOL. Great video and comparison of the two machines. The only thin I would point out, and this is also something I debate in Voron groups... If you install a set of quality panels on the voron, bolted to the extrusions, on the sides rear and top the righty of the machines is greatly increased and makes the size of the extrusions irrelevant. I build large format printers and solid panels are mandatory at 500x500 to totally eliminate frame twist and to hold the frame square but in the end the printer prints just as fast and with the same quality as a standard sized voron. They are both great machines. In the standard kit sizes I would recommend a voron but if you want to go big the RatRig is better unless your willing to spend a lot more to modify a voron to compete at that spec
If you want access to my calibration test files and a guide on how to use them and calibrate your printer for the best accuracy, you can find everything here on my website: My Calibration and Test files: vector3d.co.uk/store/3D-Printing-Help-c125254079
I can't be the only one who desperately wants these discord-based support systems to be replaced with a public and searchable forum, right? Even a subreddit would be better, IMO. Less discussion and community feeling than discord, but it would at least make things much more accessible.
You are not the only one.
Agreed
A subreddit wouldn't be optimal, forums are still the way to go there, but definitely better than a discord
It's so easy for questions to be drowned out by random chatter
100%
I hate discord
Refreshing this a bit now that the Bamboo X1 is out and about... very excited to see comparisons with the vorons.
It honestly looks very impressive. The only thing that sucks about the Bambu Labs is the printer is pretty much 99% proprietary/non standard parts. Its the complete opposite of voron that is built entirely of parts you can piece together yourself and customize. But i have still been super impressed with the bambu labs videos ive seen.
it's literally like the DJI or Apple of 3D printers. works great out of the box but can't really do much about it once it starts breaking, you're tied to Bambu labs for parts and/or support.
What i don't understand is why the 2.4 is being compared to the V core instead of the Voron Trident vs the V core....?
@@hendrixlp1970flagships. While your right and it should be trident for apples to apples people want to brag about their 2.4 but its pretty unique
I think the V-Core 3 would be better compared with the Voron Trident since they are more similar with leadscrews
In case you missed the note in the video, this is a shortened version of the full review which was an hour long. You can find the original here if you want ALL the juicy details: ruclips.net/video/QnEb8VnWDcA/видео.html
Ohhhh i was just watching at the original version, thanks for the re-upload ! :D
Thanks for an excellent video comparison.
Top quality information and you seem to be unbiased. Now which on to choose ;-)
It's been 2 years and I would very much appreciate an updated video with the RatRig V-Core 4 and a more recent (LDO) Voron 2.4 kit :)
The wobbly legged alien thing is a guardian from the legend of Zelda
Haha, ye i just forgot the name of it while making the video 😅
Input shaping was a big reason I opted to get the V-Core 3, and yet the accelerometer isn't included in the kit and there's no mention of how to mount it to the extruder or wire it to the board.
Input shaping is part of Klipper and the Voron also runs Klipper, thus you can also use input shaper on your Voron
You can (and should) do input shaping on the Voron.
There are many recommended mods including input shaper that Voron also has on offer. It is strongly recommended and it is very easy to do on a Voron.
Comparison of these 2 printers to a bambu carbon x1 would be nice?
I currently have a modified ender 3 and im interested in moving on!
Thanks
The question is simple. Do you want to tinker or just print? Just print, get the bamboo carbon. I prefer the voron because if it breaks it is easy to source parts as well. Buying a bamboo means doing business with them anytime something goes wrong.
A revisit to this topic would be nice.
I followed you when I was building my own Voron and I got stuck. Doesn’t work don’t know why and have not got the time to sort it. Will have another go when I have the time. To be honest Its a hell of a lot more complicated than buying a prebuilt printer like a Prusa or a creality printer.
It’s not been a happy build for me to be honest. The software is a bit confusing.
I will check your firmware and see if that sorts it.
Did you join the discord? I stucked at several steps in the build process and the community always helped me in a few minutes.
I got some help from discord but the issues are too time consuming for me to sort just now. It’s been too much for me just now. Maybe later. But just now I just want to give up on it.
@@paulmilne3038 want to sell it?
@@clayton9341 I am considering it as an option but I would have to sell it uk as it’s far too big to post, it would have to be picked up, it could be some part is actually faulty but to be honest I think it’s a software issue. I would love to get this running but I lack the time and ability to fix it. Only other possibility in my opinion is a bad connection so would have to test each one and that’s time consuming, bought that fancy harness and fancy touchscreen. It guts me I cannot sort this after spending so much money on it.
@@paulmilne3038 I'm in the last steps of building my printer so most is still fresh, we could debug it together over discord chat if you'd like. Otherwise you could probably sell it locally if you live in a decently sized city/town, I was able to find voron people to print my parts out locally so seems finding interested people isn't too difficult
what is that filament holding contraption above? I'de like to build or buy this. Any links?
Now, this is quality!
Quick question: if using klipper firmware, then what 'flavor' do you select in Cura slicer for your machine firmware as Klipper does not currently appear as an option. Or is Marlin close enough (I realize that the gcode start line and end lines get replaced in the machine config.)
RepRap, but Marlin also works in most regards. Regardless, you can always rename commands/macros in Klipper if needed
very helpful, thanks i enjoy your content always
You are comparing a kit to a self source printer, looks like ratrig cheaped out on their kits, a real vcore wouldn't be too different from the voron in terms of quality
I would just want to double check regarding the range of the probing of the heat bed: Are you sure that the range you measured is 0.0160mm and not 0.160mm as worst? :) When I probe the bed on my CR10SProV2 I get very happy if I see at most +-0.050mm offsets, but almost always I see 0.100-0.150mm as worst (which is quite close to one layer height...). If you haven't accidentally added one zero too many in your range then I really have to order one of those machines now...
yep, im sure that's correct. 0.16mm would be a huge error for a sensor like this. This is sensor measurements though, not bed measurements.
Sensational video.
do you think you could compare modix big-60 to something more or less comparable, maybe v core 3 500x500x500
Does the new V-core V1.3 overcome any of these issues?
You know the Voron has a full CAD file available, right? It has the entire printer with every single part, including printable.
Yep. What's your point?
@@Vector3DP It was said on the video that you wished they were available... unless I misunderstood what you were trying to say.
The shitty probe is the main thing that plauges the Voron. You basically HAVE to do the Kilcky probe mod.
Tap
Yeah the zstop thing is pos. Strongly recommend klicky from day one
Sounds to me like someone needs to create a fork from each systems and make a new device ie a RATRON or VORIG
You had the money for only 1, which one would you get? 300x300 build size
Depends why I'm buying it and what needs I have at the time. Check my conclusions and suggestions for help on what to buy.
Hey Adam! Could you tell me the filament brand and color that you used for the Voron 2.4 accent color? Looks great!
Its a combination of esun ABS and ABS+ blue. I have to say though, it has been quite inconsistent performance. I'd probably recommend Ooznest ABS, better quality and great colours too. They have a blue that's very close to this as well.
These printers are really the best you can get for that money. Prusa MK3 kit is still a lot more affordable and easier to assembly but if you are planning to make it your hobby or business, you are probably better off getting one of these.
I was looking at a prusa the other day and it cost the same as my v2.4
@@lonsdale16op The MK3 doesn't make much sense for those of us who consider 3D printing to be a hobby in and of itself. It shines, however, for people who need to use a 3D printer for their business or for their actual hobbies. An assembled MK3 can be pulled out of the box and within minutes it's ready to start printing pretty much indefinitely with virtually no maintenance. The design is simple but robust, and Prusa has tuned the hell out of it and put everything into pre-configured profiles in their slicer. It takes weeks or even months for newer folks to build and fully tune a Voron.
i don't know why people like the Prusas when they're essentially glorified ender3s? for 1k i'd take a voron, or the bambu labs x1c if you just cared about printing and not so much about tinkering with your printer..
Prusa makes sense in some ways, a lot like how a bamboo carbon does. Some people just want to print stuff and not tinker with the printer. Prusa gives a nice ecosystem and a lot of pretuned profiles. It's a printer that does it's job very consistently. A voron was meant for those of us who like to build and like to tinker and modify. It's meant to be an over engineered highly customized experience... You don't build a voron, you build YOUR voron.
All of the extras listed are just that, extras. Like the voron user mod list, they leave modifying it to your preference after you completed it.
hot bed probe deviation on ratrig, is not that fair, its rather bl touch vs omron sensor
How can you call yourself a nerd and not know a guardian from BOTW?!
.. let's be honest.. these kits are not meant for beginners.. so complaining things like lube instructions, programming, defaults, slicer settings, etc is a bit asinine. people buying these kits are expected to know what they're doing. slicer settings alone are different even on basic Ender3 printers, so expecting a one size fits all slicer setting from manufucturers is ridiculous.
i understand that this was about 1 year ago by now, but you can now buy the Bambulab X1Carbon for relatively the same price as a Voron kit. That's pretty much the only true 'print straight out of the box' printer you can get today. down side is your now tied to the bambulabs ecosystem, except for the filament basically..
Damn, i've watched this video like 3-5 times, the original video once, and next monday DHL should drop me a VCore500 .......................
Can these be configured to print PEEK ?
Um, no not really. With a lot of work and modification anything is possible, but these are not ovens.
If I buy an unofficial kit all the parts are still sourced from voron right?
Voron do not sell anything, they just created the design.
I know this is old, but can we have a 10 minute version of this?
Both use the moving XY carriage and susceptible to vibrations. Moving Z bed is far superior design.
I would disagree, the 2.4 being suspended on belts is pretty damped.... I'm on a stockish voron and I'm running 6k accelerations with excellent everyday printing results... Even pushing up into 8k accelerations I get Okay results. I don't think vibration is a real issue until it gets moving extremely fast. Like print a benchy in 17 minutes fast. The current settings can print a very nice benchy at 24 minutes. Another excellent thing is it is using dual rails on x which really helps the toolhead be stable.
I don't think I am alone in questioning this review of products for comparison as they don't implement the same Z motion system... If your trying to compare, you should compare the 1.8 (Trident now) and the Rat Rig... Also you don't mention tuning for either printer prior to comparing prints. PLA might be a plastic people choose to begin with, but with an advanced printer with an enclosure like these most likely will be printing advanced filaments, such as ASA, ABS, Nylon's, etc..
Yeah I don't really print a lot of pla on my voron. Why would I when abs is easier to print abs and it comes out looking nicer then pla... Oh and abs is cheaper too. A voron was explicitly meant for abs printing.
I love my vorons. However I do modify them for my own needs. The Voron Community is highly toxic though with way too many armchair engineers who want to throw their 2 cents in every post. I have been printing and building printers for 10 years but there is always someone in the voron group telling me Im doing it wrong LOL. Great video and comparison of the two machines. The only thin I would point out, and this is also something I debate in Voron groups... If you install a set of quality panels on the voron, bolted to the extrusions, on the sides rear and top the righty of the machines is greatly increased and makes the size of the extrusions irrelevant. I build large format printers and solid panels are mandatory at 500x500 to totally eliminate frame twist and to hold the frame square but in the end the printer prints just as fast and with the same quality as a standard sized voron. They are both great machines. In the standard kit sizes I would recommend a voron but if you want to go big the RatRig is better unless your willing to spend a lot more to modify a voron to compete at that spec