Broken anything heal better than a broken heart, stay strong and don't bring that stuff into your new attempt at a relationship. Stay strong stranger 💪
That's my thought exactly. It looks pretty bad, of course, but most of the heavily bent sections are bonded to the car and can be removed without too much difficulty. As you say, replacement parts could be tough to come across, not to mention very expensive straight from Chev, but I'm sure a c8 owner somewhere will leave a meet too hard and slam the rear into a tree or something, then the front can be easy pickings!
@@helplmchoking rob has found one , apparently a c8 fell frpm the vehicle lift in a repair shop ,rob is going to use that one and as tou said most of the damaged stuff is pretty easy to remove and replace.iirc the other c8 is orange too
Not to mention the arms are made to collapse in a specific way on an impact. Not only is it illegal (at least in europe) to modify these, it's a potential hazard. Welding heavily alloyed alu isn't the best idea either. The heat may and will alter the properties of the metal.
@@DraGma not to mention an absolute pain in the arse to weld if you don't know what kind of alloy you're dealing with, and even then some alloys just straight up aren't weldable. Luckily the glue used in the bonded parts is removable without too much drama so those parts can just be replaced
The front crashbar is in such good a shape because it did its job, to remain intact and rigid to spread the impact force over the entire front of the car. Spreading the energy out lowers the effective crash force across the car and so controls the depth of impact.
Rob-I’m sure it’s been said in the comments already, but those brake ducts are for track use only. They are meant to be installed and removed every time due to ground clearance issues. Page 153/154 in the owners manual
Somebody that works a GM parts counter or has access to SI needs to hook Rob up with some exploded parts diagrams, electrical schematics (especially for that transmission+engine harness), some torque specifications, and some disassembly/assembly instructions.
I am talking about the “service information” that is available through GM global connect, it’s basically an electronic catalog of every document, repair procedure, schematic, and specification for GM vehicles. It’s 10x better than a Chilton book imo. Like AllData but on steroids and better because it’s straight from GM.
@@dominickniceswander4556 Car manufacturers typically keep that type of information to themselves because they make money through dealerships selling parts. It keeps you from fixing it yourself, more profit for them on the back end.
I agree with you. Resemble the car as much as you can in order to clear the codes and reassess your build. I’d say that is an excellent and smart move. Looking forward to this build.
it's interesting to note that a specific design requirement of the Pontiac Fiero was that two golf bags fit in the rear trunk. I keep thinking that the new c8 is just a new Fiero that GM didn't Handicap for corporate reasons.
Few years back I hit a curb in my 2002 BMW Z3 M roadster and it has a ton of cooling ducts for the brakes, alternator, air flow fins and plastic then I knew what it was for. Well I nail my front end and when I seen what just parts cost was I learned plastic welding and how to reinforce plastic with mesh and bars being welding it. The lower grill had to be welded and I was able to build up, sand, repair all it. Only had to replace the radiator which in the e36 or e36/7 like mine is a common issues so all fixed with harbor fright plastic welders for less then one part would have cost. Just a idea
Rafiul Haque I know, I know, driving a Porsche myself. But lets say he finds one with a bad engine, wouldn’t be too bad now would it? And all that rambling about a rear engined car... I think people should build the car of their dreams if they can, regardless of what other people think about it. Anyone who needs the permission of others to enjoy oneself is in a really pitiful position. I for example would love to build a very powerful Cayman or Boxster that would put 911s to shame. I can’t do it though because I don’t have the knowledge nor the time nor the money. So I’ll just enjoy myself with the great opportunities that I already have.
You make a body man cring the doors were taken apart so they could be blended so the color matches and those frame rails need sectioned or u mind as well just duct tape it. The upper tie bar and upper rails would also need to be sectioned
Rod you should get in touch with "V TUNED" for advice on how best to replace the rails.. the plates with the 4 bolts in are there so you can take out the bent broken rails and fit new ones using the 4 fixed bolts to get everything aligned.. looking forward for the next upload.. 👍
You might want to keep the wheel-well pieces. There's a lot of aero going on in the wheel-well area and I'm sure they designed it to manage the pressures that develop under there. You'll notice a difference north of 120.
Hey Rob, I'm one of the somebody's that had to design all this. Well, some of it. That "frunk piece" you poked with your foot is mine lol. It's the frunk hinge and actuator. It was a pain in the ass to design haha. That part you picked up that "was in really good shape" and had a second one just like it is an antenna. Not sure exactly what it does since designing around it was the extent of my involvement with it. I think it might be for GPS or something like that. But they do indeed go in the front, tucked under the front fender. I look forward to seeing the project unfold. I spent a long time looking at the naked front end of this car on a computer, it will be cool seeing you get hands on with the real thing to put it back together.
Keep up the great work on this car....I am really interested in cars itself and I am always watching your videos and learning so much!!!! Nice car that you purchased at the right time
I went through a couple Structural Classes for my schooling and they car had to be hit really ducking hard to bend that frame rail like that @13:22 and I know it's aluminum but still that's a frame rail
Mr. Dahm, I enjoy the phrase; this is a "Million dollar part." We know they make in very low-cost countries for pennies-all that plastic in a raw form. You could get for a few meals at McDonald's with some friends. The tooling amortization over several years plus inventory overhead of GM, and what it is the decided value based on supply and demand for the model years using those parts.
I never understood the fascination with calling the front trunk a "Frunk" since we don't call the rear trunk a "Runk" plus it sounds like it was lifted off the school yard or senior center rec room.
Hey rob! I belive the black boxes with the electrical connectors hanging out are the drivers for the headlights and the other 2 on the crash bar are the airbag sensors.
those cameras in the bumper are used to give you the top down view so you don't hit a curb when parking. there's a module that stitches the 2 cameras together to form that view.
I have seen the aftermath of a lot of DUI accidents and this one is one of the least screwed cars I have ever seen . the bonded panels and frame sections will be a pain to fix but being aluminum any decent aircraft grade aluminum will be up to the frames standard for strength and give you the best welding results for the repairs . I would cut out any spot that has damage in the bonding and start at clean straight metal it will just be easier and stronger that way . If you have worked around the GM bonding glue you know how foul it is when it's welded next to . I think you got damn lucky on this car and even thou it's worse then the other corvette it's still very repairable and will make a very good base for your Aerovette build and I can't wait it's going to be so good.
I do believe you can cut the spot welds for the front it's almost like the front half is made from four aluminum bars. You can replace them to make the front square again.
You can remove the damaged front rail by drilling out those puck rivets and using heat, you will get a cleaner fix and not have to worry about bending anything further.
Hey rob, panel beater here. The reason the doors where stripped was simply to get the car ready for paint, the shop obviously hoped it wouldn't get totalled.
hi rob those chassis legs are bonded and riveted us heat gun and heat rail where damaged up to around 350 to 400 degrees c and pull, a little heat can't hurt the aluminium rail wont lose integrity till around 600 ish degrees c then if you want drill rivits cut rails then use a panel splitter thin sharp wood chisel will do and heat up where the panel bond is and split the 2 panels apart the heat will make it easier buy 2 new chassis ends and a raditor support panel bolt the ends to the support slide back in to chassis and do your cross measurements and length measurements screw the rails so you have a refrence mask, tape where you want the panel bond to stop dont forget to dry fit fenders hood and headlights, and then grind clean both pieces where you are going to bond slide back together put screws back in to refrence holes and remeasure, re rivit or plug weld if you cant get the special riviter job done. it might look hard but it isn't if you just take your time and if you can salvage the left rail thats good too any chevy dealer should be able to give you print out pictures of the parts so you can see where they go and it will have part numbers so you can see what you need they should also be able to get you the datum point measurements for the chassis rails i hope this helps i am a 54 years young panel beater cheers from down under love the build
Rob better get a certified Aluminum Bbodyshop frame welder to truly rebuilt those framestructures on that 'vette. It's Your life endangered running that horsie with a 1000 BHP rotary in back! All the crumple zones should be precisely correct! Try to get the GM frontend Bodyshop maintenance manual for GM workshops
6:55 You're not wrong, plastic front splitters are supposed to be consumable items, designed so you scrape smaller, more easily replaced parts instead of larger one piece bumper. Doesn't really matter if it's slightly damaged underneath.
Don't bent those frame pieces back they unscrew and can be replaced I think. That U shaped alu frame bracket, isn't that for holding the light, since you have 2 of those :). Those 2 bars with big black boxes are I think airbags
Rob, you should hit up the youtuber VEHCOR (Scott), he’s a body/frame guy. He’d be able to give you great insight into pulling the rails and getting it all straight before start cutting it up.
I’m sure you’ll have no problem putting it back together once you see what parts are available! Both portions your talking about being the problem will be offered as replacement parts through Chevrolet!
hey rob just saying hi i make those front and rear fascias and other small plastic components at our magna plant so something that was once in my hands is now in yours lol
I would be most curious about that roof line being tweaked and would get the whole chassis straightened out. You can see it in other videos. I'd start with that before anything else.
As i see, this was a side/slant impact, so that explains why the front crash bar was in such good nick. I hear you found a donor already, which is good. A lot of this stuff (in this video on the ground) is mince meat even if it looks ok.
I wonder if the C8 that fell off the lift at the dealership is a total loss? Not even sure if it's a Z51 car, which could be a very moot point for the amount of $ it would take to even buy it at auction. Can't wait to see this!
Welding aluminum creates a weak point unless it's a reinforced member. Probably why they used bonding agents instead of welding at those points. If you butt weld two pieces and then bend them, it will fail at the weld. Something else to consider if you want to bend aluminum to a different shape, annealing. Aluminum has unique annealing properties, almost opposite that from steel. And you can do it in your shop quite easily. Get your oxy acetylene rosebud torch. Soot up your pieces with a pure acetylene flame and then add just enough oxygen to make the flame stabilize but not too hot. Gently burn off the soot (This is your temperature indicator. I'll burn off when you hit the right temp). At that point shock the aluminum with ice water. Now the piece is workable and very soft however, as you work it you will feel it beginning to harden in places. This is called work hardening. Repeat the process as many times as you need to get your piece into shape. The piece will harden on its own over time as well.
Still less damage than my ex did to me
F
Broken anything heal better than a broken heart, stay strong and don't bring that stuff into your new attempt at a relationship. Stay strong stranger 💪
Yikes
I know that feeling right now
Oof
Ya damage is so minor. The only difficulty I see is sourcing the parts, but that shouldn't take long for another C8 owner to get a good rear ender.
That's my thought exactly. It looks pretty bad, of course, but most of the heavily bent sections are bonded to the car and can be removed without too much difficulty.
As you say, replacement parts could be tough to come across, not to mention very expensive straight from Chev, but I'm sure a c8 owner somewhere will leave a meet too hard and slam the rear into a tree or something, then the front can be easy pickings!
@@helplmchoking rob has found one , apparently a c8 fell frpm the vehicle lift in a repair shop ,rob is going to use that one and as tou said most of the damaged stuff is pretty easy to remove and replace.iirc the other c8 is orange too
@@maahingupta2424 That is good news!
@@maahingupta2424 Oh thats great to hear
@@maahingupta2424 geez what's next a C8 launched from space?
The reactions at LS Fest is going to be priceless when they see the rotary swapped C8 aka Aerovette!
All he has to do is keep this a SECRET so they won't know!
Itll be done in 2030
It will be great in 2 years!
too bad all c7 and c8 vettes are banned , they have an LT not an LS xP
They put a sticker on Rob's saying his isn't allowed there whenever he went to the Corvette Museum and the Holley factory
Your actually supposed to remove the glue and screws/rivets and slide a new rail section in
Not to mention the arms are made to collapse in a specific way on an impact. Not only is it illegal (at least in europe) to modify these, it's a potential hazard.
Welding heavily alloyed alu isn't the best idea either. The heat may and will alter the properties of the metal.
And the glue is removable at +300°C without weakening the backframe less than 15%
@@DraGma not to mention an absolute pain in the arse to weld if you don't know what kind of alloy you're dealing with, and even then some alloys just straight up aren't weldable. Luckily the glue used in the bonded parts is removable without too much drama so those parts can just be replaced
I think that the problem it's that you cannot buy parts for the C8 yet 🤷♂️
SE Creator 😂😂😂 seems easy 😂
The front crashbar is in such good a shape because it did its job, to remain intact and rigid to spread the impact force over the entire front of the car.
Spreading the energy out lowers the effective crash force across the car and so controls the depth of impact.
rob hits me everytime with those smooth keeps transition.
Hell yeah that was buttery
Rob-I’m sure it’s been said in the comments already, but those brake ducts are for track use only. They are meant to be installed and removed every time due to ground clearance issues. Page 153/154 in the owners manual
Somebody that works a GM parts counter or has access to SI needs to hook Rob up with some exploded parts diagrams, electrical schematics (especially for that transmission+engine harness), some torque specifications, and some disassembly/assembly instructions.
Those are called service manuals that you can normally purchase. Do they have the service manuals for these cars?
I am talking about the “service information” that is available through GM global connect, it’s basically an electronic catalog of every document, repair procedure, schematic, and specification for GM vehicles. It’s 10x better than a Chilton book imo. Like AllData but on steroids and better because it’s straight from GM.
I doubt GM wants that information going out to the public, might get people in trouble allowing him to have that type of info.
@@bsmaster7 why would that be?
@@dominickniceswander4556 Car manufacturers typically keep that type of information to themselves because they make money through dealerships selling parts. It keeps you from fixing it yourself, more profit for them on the back end.
that poster makes me laugh every single time.
wanted running or not.
The fact that they barely made it there and had get it running to go home makes that statement even better
"Taps solid glass on concrete"
"Were gonna keep that safe"
The two triangle “interior pieces” are part of the fender liners
Man you almost got me with that sneaky ad. NOT TODAY SATAN
I agree with you. Resemble the car as much as you can in order to clear the codes and reassess your build. I’d say that is an excellent and smart move. Looking forward to this build.
When you don’t know what air bag sensors are because race car 🤣
Rob Dahm: buy multiple four rotors and supercars
also Rob Dahm: keeps a piece of glass from wrecked C8
Gotta save that money
@jon doe never said it wasn't
Where is the 6 rotor, Rob.
Don't worry someone already made a 6 ROTOR in a bmw m6
@@justar6865 NA not turbo tho
@@justar6865 I think there's one in a Rx4 as well
That shit takes time and a shit ton of money
Where is the 8 rotor?
it's interesting to note that a specific design requirement of the Pontiac Fiero was that two golf bags fit in the rear trunk. I keep thinking that the new c8 is just a new Fiero that GM didn't Handicap for corporate reasons.
Dear god rob get a beer belly and you’re gonna be the perfect corvette owner
dad bod
I was hoping for a shirtless slow-mo car wash montage with 80's music.
Visor hat
he would have to stop using the keeps too..
@@MiGujack3 father figure
Uncle Bob Dahm: *looks at C8* Yep, that's not going anywhere
...yet.
Few years back I hit a curb in my 2002 BMW Z3 M roadster and it has a ton of cooling ducts for the brakes, alternator, air flow fins and plastic then I knew what it was for. Well I nail my front end and when I seen what just parts cost was I learned plastic welding and how to reinforce plastic with mesh and bars being welding it. The lower grill had to be welded and I was able to build up, sand, repair all it. Only had to replace the radiator which in the e36 or e36/7 like mine is a common issues so all fixed with harbor fright plastic welders for less then one part would have cost. Just a idea
Suddenly the thought of a rotary 911 flashed through my mind...
This
Oh my..
Porsche purist will burn you at the stake. They can be hard core
Rafiul Haque I know, I know, driving a Porsche myself. But lets say he finds one with a bad engine, wouldn’t be too bad now would it? And all that rambling about a rear engined car... I think people should build the car of their dreams if they can, regardless of what other people think about it. Anyone who needs the permission of others to enjoy oneself is in a really pitiful position. I for example would love to build a very powerful Cayman or Boxster that would put 911s to shame. I can’t do it though because I don’t have the knowledge nor the time nor the money. So I’ll just enjoy myself with the great opportunities that I already have.
Flyingby bisimoto has got you covered on the crazy cayman lol
i love how rob didn't change his uncle rob outfit and continue working on the c8.
That C8 is job security for isaiah
That will keep the BMW rolling
You make a body man cring the doors were taken apart so they could be blended so the color matches and those frame rails need sectioned or u mind as well just duct tape it. The upper tie bar and upper rails would also need to be sectioned
remember, every unending project starts with a "this can't be too bad"
Flextape™ - Thats a lotta damage
Rod you should get in touch with "V TUNED" for advice on how best to replace the rails.. the plates with the 4 bolts in are there so you can take out the bent broken rails and fit new ones using the 4 fixed bolts to get everything aligned.. looking forward for the next upload.. 👍
He shouldn't weld that alloy. It will leave it weak and brittle. That's why its bonded in the first place
Seems like a lot of work coming a head!
Can't wait to see how this turns out.
I'm already salivating at all the intricate details involved with the repairs and mods for this project. Excitement over 9K!
Damn Rob you really rocking the classic Vette driver look aye
Anyone still complaining about the 4-rotor "ruining a perfectly good Corvette," dude just saved one with this transplant
I get what you are saying but the engine wasn't the issue here. It was the front end.
We need the dynamic duo of uncle Rob and cousin Jer back
That is a mess of parts. Good luck. Can't wait to see it run
You might want to keep the wheel-well pieces. There's a lot of aero going on in the wheel-well area and I'm sure they designed it to manage the pressures that develop under there. You'll notice a difference north of 120.
Hey Rob, I'm one of the somebody's that had to design all this. Well, some of it. That "frunk piece" you poked with your foot is mine lol. It's the frunk hinge and actuator. It was a pain in the ass to design haha.
That part you picked up that "was in really good shape" and had a second one just like it is an antenna. Not sure exactly what it does since designing around it was the extent of my involvement with it. I think it might be for GPS or something like that. But they do indeed go in the front, tucked under the front fender.
I look forward to seeing the project unfold. I spent a long time looking at the naked front end of this car on a computer, it will be cool seeing you get hands on with the real thing to put it back together.
After watching the last 5 videos what blew my mind is he wanted to start with clearing codes!
Keep up the great work on this car....I am really interested in cars itself and I am always watching your videos and learning so much!!!! Nice car that you purchased at the right time
I went through a couple Structural Classes for my schooling and they car had to be hit really ducking hard to bend that frame rail like that @13:22 and I know it's aluminum but still that's a frame rail
Mr. Dahm, I enjoy the phrase; this is a "Million dollar part." We know they make in very low-cost countries for pennies-all that plastic in a raw form. You could get for a few meals at McDonald's with some friends. The tooling amortization over several years plus inventory overhead of GM, and what it is the decided value based on supply and demand for the model years using those parts.
go to a frame shop for straightening the frame, you want the frame to be pulled, so the steel further away that was sightly moved can be straightened
I never understood the fascination with calling the front trunk a "Frunk" since we don't call the rear trunk a "Runk" plus it sounds like it was lifted off the school yard or senior center rec room.
We just call the trunk a boot here in Australia regardless if it’s in the front or rear
Love the vette owner look
Automotive archeology with Dr. Dahm... ^_^
Hey rob! I belive the black boxes with the electrical connectors hanging out are the drivers for the headlights and the other 2 on the crash bar are the airbag sensors.
Loved the intro Rob Dahm!
That sure has a gorgeous orange paint job.
Looking forward to seeing the next episode
You need to call in blue collar Kyle for a few recommendations on the frame. That crossover would be nuts!
those cameras in the bumper are used to give you the top down view so you don't hit a curb when parking. there's a module that stitches the 2 cameras together to form that view.
Maybe contact that headlight company and ask them if you can model their products since they got your one and only good headlight 🧐
Legend has it Rob built the hospital he was born in, and raised his mother all by himself
Car in 1000 pieces on the floor.
Intense engine swap looming.
Rob: hopefully we can figure out why the check engine light is on.
I have seen the aftermath of a lot of DUI accidents and this one is one of the least screwed cars I have ever seen . the bonded panels and frame sections will be a pain to fix but being aluminum any decent aircraft grade aluminum will be up to the frames standard for strength and give you the best welding results for the repairs . I would cut out any spot that has damage in the bonding and start at clean straight metal it will just be easier and stronger that way . If you have worked around the GM bonding glue you know how foul it is when it's welded next to . I think you got damn lucky on this car and even thou it's worse then the other corvette it's still very repairable and will make a very good base for your Aerovette build and I can't wait it's going to be so good.
LOL that first line sounded like you said "My good friend Jason Newsted" I was like whhhhaaaat?!?! Rob Dahm knows the old bassist from Metallica?! LOL
I do believe you can cut the spot welds for the front it's almost like the front half is made from four aluminum bars. You can replace them to make the front square again.
GM with parts restrictions, good luck getting any structural parts Mr Dahm
You can remove the damaged front rail by drilling out those puck rivets and using heat, you will get a cleaner fix and not have to worry about bending anything further.
This is going to be such a cool freaking build!
Hey rob, panel beater here.
The reason the doors where stripped was simply to get the car ready for paint, the shop obviously hoped it wouldn't get totalled.
I had to replay your mess up on "making it as simple and straight forward as possible" a couple times hahah
Rob worked on a salvage Corvette before so I'm sure he will be just fine for the C8 build
hi rob those chassis legs are bonded and riveted us heat gun and heat rail where damaged up to around 350 to 400 degrees c and pull, a little heat can't hurt the aluminium rail wont lose integrity till around 600 ish degrees c then if you want drill rivits cut rails then use a panel splitter thin sharp wood chisel will do and heat up where the panel bond is and split the 2 panels apart the heat will make it easier buy 2 new chassis ends and a raditor support panel bolt the ends to the support slide back in to chassis and do your cross measurements and length measurements screw the rails so you have a refrence mask, tape where you want the panel bond to stop dont forget to dry fit fenders hood and headlights, and then grind clean both pieces where you are going to bond slide back together put screws back in to refrence holes and remeasure, re rivit or plug weld if you cant get the special riviter job done. it might look hard but it isn't if you just take your time and if you can salvage the left rail thats good too any chevy dealer should be able to give you print out pictures of the parts so you can see where they go and it will have part numbers so you can see what you need they should also be able to get you the datum point measurements for the chassis rails i hope this helps i am a 54 years young panel beater cheers from down under love the build
Rob better get a certified Aluminum Bbodyshop frame welder to truly rebuilt those framestructures on that 'vette. It's Your life endangered running that horsie with a 1000 BHP rotary in back! All the crumple zones should be precisely correct!
Try to get the GM frontend Bodyshop maintenance manual for GM workshops
6:55 You're not wrong, plastic front splitters are supposed to be consumable items, designed so you scrape smaller, more easily replaced parts instead of larger one piece bumper. Doesn't really matter if it's slightly damaged underneath.
Best episode of Mayday ever
Awesome project!!! Looking forward to see it finish
Those brake ducts are track use only, so a lot of dealers are not installing them at time of PDI.
Don't bent those frame pieces back they unscrew and can be replaced I think. That U shaped alu frame bracket, isn't that for holding the light, since you have 2 of those :). Those 2 bars with big black boxes are I think airbags
I appreciate the Valvoline hat. Valvoline for the win
Rob, you should hit up the youtuber VEHCOR (Scott), he’s a body/frame guy. He’d be able to give you great insight into pulling the rails and getting it all straight before start cutting it up.
I’m sure you’ll have no problem putting it back together once you see what parts are available! Both portions your talking about being the problem will be offered as replacement parts through Chevrolet!
hey rob just saying hi i make those front and rear fascias and other small plastic components at our magna plant so something that was once in my hands is now in yours lol
I wish I could go dumpster diving at your plant haha
You need a Titleist hat
Man, I've missed Bob. Good to have him back. Also, it'd be great to see Jared again. What's he been up to? He's missed out on so much!
he died in the raid remember?
@@asjmpickle Oh yes, I forgot about that smh!
If stock AC never works out I think jegs sells a remote location electric powered AC compressor
I would be most curious about that roof line being tweaked and would get the whole chassis straightened out. You can see it in other videos. I'd start with that before anything else.
The single headlight is $1,000.00 plus.
I am so very happy that the entire corporate tier has their third yacht. Each.
That's alotta damage!
As i see, this was a side/slant impact, so that explains why the front crash bar was in such good nick. I hear you found a donor already, which is good. A lot of this stuff (in this video on the ground) is mince meat even if it looks ok.
With regard to bent and bonded aluminum structural parts; would replacing them be a better option?
Dealership didn’t forget to install the air ducts. GM doesn’t recommend them for street use because they hang so low
We miss Jaret :(
I wonder if the C8 that fell off the lift at the dealership is a total loss? Not even sure if it's a Z51 car, which could be a very moot point for the amount of $ it would take to even buy it at auction.
Can't wait to see this!
Welding aluminum creates a weak point unless it's a reinforced member. Probably why they used bonding agents instead of welding at those points. If you butt weld two pieces and then bend them, it will fail at the weld. Something else to consider if you want to bend aluminum to a different shape, annealing. Aluminum has unique annealing properties, almost opposite that from steel. And you can do it in your shop quite easily. Get your oxy acetylene rosebud torch. Soot up your pieces with a pure acetylene flame and then add just enough oxygen to make the flame stabilize but not too hot. Gently burn off the soot (This is your temperature indicator. I'll burn off when you hit the right temp). At that point shock the aluminum with ice water. Now the piece is workable and very soft however, as you work it you will feel it beginning to harden in places. This is called work hardening. Repeat the process as many times as you need to get your piece into shape. The piece will harden on its own over time as well.
Hair is coming in decent bra. Anticipation for this to be done is killing me though.
Rob Dahm everyone
The master of videos with zero content
You should call the Vette the ZRX11 Blue (Z) White (R) and Red (X)
Street Hunter wide body pieces should replace the broken parts very nicely.
tube front chassis that feels like original?
Rob is putting these pieces together like legos
Needs a 787b livery when done
Rob secretly loves being a corvette dad
You may be surprised at how affordable some of those apron pieces are from the dealership.
When I saw him with the hat I was waiting for the keeps promo LOLOLOL
All of theese things here in this triangle "the rotory is speaking to us".. Says Rob.... 😁
Talking about the 2 golf bags has Casey Putsch vibes.
Captain crunch and the DWI Bunch
wonder if u can even get frame parts yet from GM to fix that one, or both rails.
Day by Day I will be watching.. 🤗🙂
rob are you interested in pontiac? this sounds wild but to see a rotary G8 or even Chevy SS would be really freaking cool! love the videos