Lincoln Ls - Jaguar - 3.9L V8 Timing Chain Tensioner
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- Опубликовано: 1 июн 2015
- Replacing the passenger side secondary timing chain tensioner on a 2000 Lincoln Ls V8 - Engine was rattling/knocking, noise was coming from passenger side. Replacing the secondary timing chain tensioner fixed the problem.
Ford wanted $1600 to replace it.
Tensioner cost: $80
Valve cover gasket cost: $40
Time to perform repair: 3 hours 
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Awesome glad you posted this I'm think I might have to replace mine in the coming week! Good video hopefully mine didn't skip timing!
Great post. This help me fix my problem. The chain had jumped one teeth.
I didn't record the part where the new tensioner is in place. After the new tensioner is in place and the pin is removed, there will still be slack in the chain, and that's not a problem. I scratched my head for over an hour thinking the chain may have jumped a tooth, but the slack is completely normal. It will go away as you turn on the engine.
I put it all back together and it made the same noise, so back to troubleshooting tomorrow. I am selling the car, just didnt want to sell it with that issue......will update tomorrow. Thanks Bob
Warbird40 It might be your driver side timing chain tensioner?
The recommended procedure is to replace the chains too. They stretch and cause too much slack. Ford and other parts makers have updated the tensioners and the chains to a new style as noted in this video to prevent early failure. There are new updated chains that have a master link so you do not have to remove the cams. The existing chain is cut off then the new chain goes on and you insert the master link and clip with the new one as long as you hold the cams in the timed position. There is a cam timing tool that mounts over the cam timing flat spots and hold both cams while you remove the existing chain. Word is from Ford, the primary chains and tensions should also be removed at the same time and replaced with updated ones. Some folks do not, and take a chance with updating only the secondary chain and tensioners since those usually fail first.
Thanks for the detailed video,,,I just bought an 05 LS. Do you know what year Ford changed the tensioner from plastic over to metal?
OK I know its been a while since you made this video hopefully you can answer me after you change that part did the noise stop and did the car work ??
Can u confirm the exact position the flat spots on the cams are supposed to be my exhaust cam is slightly advanced from the intake cam... My tensioner was broke ive since replaced it n still idles rough.... Could that b why? Because it's out of timing?
Awesome video! Over all how,long did it take? I got the same problem and thinking about doing it myself
Mike Keetley Thanks! The job is much easier than it looks. It took me 3 hours.
Well I see in your video your changing the tensioner on the right head, you say don't forget to torque the caps in the order 2-1-3-0-5, I now understand that 0 is by the belts and 5 is by the firewall. So I assume cap #4 isn't in that sequence. I'm am gonna change the left side tensioner as well, would you happen to know that torque order?
Great video and good ideas.
i have a rattling sound in my lincoln that sounds like a bad tension pulley
but it`s not, if i remove the belt and run the car the noise will go away about 80%
but is still there.
i guess it goes away a little because i`m taking tension off the timing chain.
It's probably the bearings in one of the pulleys... Try pinning down which pulley is making the noise
What's the torque for the camshaft caps?
about to do the same thing where did you buy part from
Hi Bob, the link to what it sound like before was only on idle. Did yours make the noise when driving? My car made noise on idle at first till day I was speeding during emergency, gasing car quickly. It died, then wouldn't start on jump. Replaced alternator but old one wasn't bad, it starts now and sounds same as video you linked but when foot on gas as well. Thank you for insight!
It's very possible that it could be the same problem. I'd just take off the valve cover to make sure.
BOB24502 will try that. Thank you!
Bob, how much torque to the camshaft caps when torquing them? Thanks
Warbird40 torque is 156lb.in. but I did it in two stages. First stage I torqued at 50 lb.in. then second stage I up the torque to 156lb.in (13 lb.ft). Don't forget when you tighten them up, tighten the caps in this order: 2 - 1 - 3 - 0 - 5
exactly what tools are required
Estimated cost to have timing chain replaced by mechanic?
Im assuming this job can be done without a special tool kit. as Im going to reseal the front cover on a 2002 tbird with a 3.9 and has 240k dont want to go in that deep and not replace all that is behind the cover
+Shawn McHargue No need for any special tools. You just need a small torque wrench to torque the camshaft caps.
Also I'm getting a loose gas cap code and a emissions system large leak detected code, replaced the gas cap 3 times, I even bought a Ford dealership cap and none made the code go away even when I manually cleared the code it always comes back, I think the seals in my evap canister are going out from overfills when I pump gas
Sometimes, you get a leak in the filler neck or the threads for the cap get jacked and won't seal tight.
# JAG part? Please and were you finded..
Or motor specification JAG. (year)
Does anyone know the best upgraded timing chain tensioner I can buy if mine is cracked?
Hey BOB24502how would I identify the camshaft cap order 2-1-3-0-5. Which cap is which?
I'm not sure I understand the question? The caps arenin order from 0 to 5, zero is at the front of the engine, 5 is close to the firewall.
I have a friend that say: In his car the secondary timing chain broke inside trying to start his car. I don't know how is possible, but that his argument.
My question is in this specific car, in that situation, they can bend valves?
It's possible, if the secondary timing chain jumps several teeth on the sprocket, in which case the valves could hit the piston since this is an interference motor.
Does anyone know a good lincoln Ls chat room?
Bob, I removed the old tensioner but I am kind of baffled because the old tensioner doesnt look too bad (small wear marks on plastic) but intact. My car makes a terrible noise (only at start up for 2 seconds).....car has 106,000
Warbird40 If it was a bad timing chain tensioner, it would make the noise all the time at idle, not only when you turn on the engine... It must be coming from somewhere else. Were you able to pinpoint which area of the engine the noise is coming from?
Warbird40 This was the sound the car made before I fixed the tensioner.... ruclips.net/video/Lm94f2gDziw/видео.html
This still can be the tensioners. The early ones don't have a supporting spring and it takes a bit until the engine oil pumps builds up enough pressure to tighten the chain. "Looking good" is not good enough. A factor is also engine oil at the right specs. It the viscosity is not within specifications, if its to thin, this can also cause the tensioners to malfunction. If you use a 0w40 instead of a 5w30 for instance.
Noise comes also from worn chains, with over 100k mls on the clock, they are surely streched. When the tensioners get weak the chain starts to slacken and lateral forces on the tensioners can cause it to break - after that your engine is scrap beyond repair.
Do you know if they changed this on later cars ??
Not 100% sure but I think they changed it with the 280hp version of the lincoln LS...
Wish you woulda shown how you put the tensioner in!
Mike Keetley Sorry about that. I needed two hands to do that. It's fairly simple, with one hand, pick up the exhaust camshaft and move it toward the intake camshaft to get some play in the chain and make some room for the tensioner, with the other hand, wedge it in place, pretty easy.
tengo un lincoln ls 2000 3.9 ise lo mismo que isistes pero la cadena mequeda floja que puedo hacer
Si lo reparaste????
Greetings colleague.you can support me with the diagram of the chain.of lincoln Ls engine 3.9 2001 traces the same engine as the jaguar and tunderbit ford
the 3.9 is the exact same jag motor, jag calls it the 4.0l
Is the torque the same for all 4 cams?
Yep, 156 lb.in
@@BOB24502 hi and how about the tensioners
@@BOB24502 some other guy said 56lb in and turn 90 degrees and 97lb in for tensioners.im confused now cause I took it all apart
For some of you with this problem, here's a tip. My LS made the same rattling noise at start up and it would go away after 2 to 3 seconds. I replaced the secondary chain tensioner and the noise remained there.....it turned out to be a bent pushrod! I have never raced or abused the car and always changed the oil on time with Mobil 1 full synthetic, so I have no idea why one of my pushrods went south.
+Warbird40 to the best of my knowledge this is an overhead cam engine , " NO PUSHRODS " so what are you saying , please explain Frank T
No special tool was required either.
This exactly the way of NOT doing it!
The AJV8 engine has chain rails and lower tensioners which are also prone to failure.
You need a special tooling like this goo.gl/mjM9Nf and you should go with a OEM quality kit like this goo.gl/mfxKZP. You need to take the timing cover off and do it professionally.
I feel sorry for all those who buy cars with "tensioners done" and end up with a broken engine. I have done the job on docents of cars and in many cases the chain rails - you don't even see in this job - are broken. You also can jeopardize your engine if you miss the proper torque of the sprocket screws with inadequate tools.
So if you car is anything else than a bucket, please do yourself a favour and do a proper job.
Sorry mate!
Exactly the way of not doing it? This repair was done a year and 25,000 miles ago and the car is still running strong, and the rattling is gone. How was it done wrong?
The kit you're showing is for replacing the primary & secondary timing chain tensioner. This video explains how to replace the secondary timing chain tensioner only.
Thanks for responding. Yes, exactly - I would never recommend to replace only the top tensioners, but do the job on the whole timing gear. The top tensioners from Sachs are plastic so is the rest of the timing gear. It is weak and will break. If you have a problem you have the problem on the lower tensioners as well as on the chain rails. On 50% of the cars I have done - and I have done many - the chain rails had cracks. If they fail your engine fails. The chain will jump the sprocket and that was it - your engine is scrap, and in many cases the car.
If you take all the efforts to gehter to unmount the camshaft etc. you spend not much more time if you take the ventilators out, take the harmonic balancer off, take the timing cover off and change the whole timing gear. Then you are sure this engine will last.
25.000 miles - this is not an argument! you are simply lucky. Maybe another 50.000 miles - but maybe only 5. And if your engine fails you probably won't post it here to tell me I was right.
An engine failure can even lead to lethal accidents, if the hole powertrain locks.
You made this video with passion and good efforts, I like that. However I think you should rethink what kind of advice you give.
regards from Europe!
I understand your argument. This car is 16 years old, has close to 200,000 miles and is worth around $1500 so a $50 repair makes more sense than an $800 repair... I did look down at the primary timing chain tensioner and it was in one piece so there was no need to fool with it.
Well, that is for sure a valid point and I understand that in a $1500 car you won't want to invest that kind of money. I deal almost only with Jaguars and they usually have slightly higher value, which they maintain if kept well.
Still I think a locking power train is something potential lethal and one should really be concerned on safety.
There is a cheap chain and tensioner kit from china - I would not install it on the cars I do, but I believe it is still a lot better and safer than the old plastic parts. They come from $ 150 - ebayers sell them for over $ 200. There is maybe possibilities to rent the special tools and it's still not so big of an investment. Still it's a 8h job, but at the end of the day you know your car is fit.
By the way the primary tensioner is rarely a problem, it's the chain rails. You can't really see how good or bad they are und less you really open the engine:
www.xkjaguar.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/gleitschiene.jpg
This one looked perfect lurking down into the timing cover.
Where is your video?