Oil Paint AND Acrylic Paint | makes this mini come alive | Legend of Keepers Miniatures!
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- Опубликовано: 22 фев 2023
- In this video I paint some great miniatures from The Legends of Keepers Kickstarter using a combination of oil paint and acrylic paint. Searching for techniques to make this forest creature come alive. Enchanting!
Kickstarter Here: www.kickstarter.com/projects/...
"The Legend of Keepers 5E Reverse Dungeon campaign book is a 350+ page tome containing 4 unique dungeons, STL models of 24 playable heroes, 50+ playable monsters, 12 notorious monster bosses and rules for three ways to play 5E (traditional, evil and PvP). This campaign is also offering over 200 STLs from Stonecraft Dungeon, Lazy Squire Games’ new line of 3D-printable terrain."
Paints Used in this video:
A lot of them mixed together, so trying to list them is difficult. But the first paints I based everything on, and got inspired by: Scale75 Sherwood Green, WarFront Shadow Blue, Warfront Dunkelbraun, Scale75 Sunset purple, Kimera Magenta.
-Support and be part of the continued creation of videos like this on Patreon: / 52miniatures
-Merch: 52miniatures.creator-spring.com/
-Follow me on Instagram for regular hobby updates - @52miniatures 
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![ASMR | Carefully Painting a DnD Tabletop Gaming Miniature 🖌🎨 [soft spoken, relaxing, tingly]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/k96CNPfXaLM/mqdefault.jpg)
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Kickstarter here! - www.kickstarter.com/projects/563681582/legend-of-keepers-5e-reverse-dungeon-and-stl-miniatures?ref=4yu1fm
The enchantress turned out beautiful!
Great vid Alex, here are some tips you already know, but maybe your audience might like to know.
(Preface) I paint primarily with oils. Your "beading problem" is from the oils not fully drying. It takes quite a lot longer than overnight for the oil paints to fully oxidize. Blues and purples can take up to two weeks. Ive had no trouble using acrylics if left long enough, its less the thinner evaporating and more of a slow chemical reaction with oxygen.
Tip 1 - faster drying -
Placing the oil paint on cardboard first letting the linseed drain out abit, then transferring to a glass pallette will reduce how long it will take to dry. If you are on a deadline using Liquin will help the curing time and make the paints smooth again. Do note that for us miniature painters we can add more liquin than canvas painters due to how thin our layers are. The liquin will make the oil paint glossy making it hard to judge if the paint is dry, I do a finger poke test on my palette (ive got three rotating palettes as I work through different projects)
Tip 2 -multi brush usage and blending on the miniature-
Imagine separating your brushes into two categories Paint brushes and blending brushes. Blending brushes wont touch your thinner until the end of the painting session, remove the excess paint on them using a paper towel. X round tip size 0 or 1 brushes to apply the paint onto the miniature where X is the amount of colors your applying before you blend (you can ignore when doing a single miniature, this is more for batch painting thing) and 1 blending brush to smudge the paints together, I like to use size 2 filberts.
Bonus tip 3 - Health and safety -
If you are a brush licker, wear a mask to provide a barrier so you dont accidently put your cadmium/lead/"insert toxin here" paint into your mouth.
Here is my current workflow on most miniatures.
1. Prime a dark color (brown, purple, blue)
2. zenithal +45 degrees on all sides a light color.
3. Thinned down black contrast paint to darken the nooks and crannies.
4. Color block the miniature using inks/transparent colors
5. Clear coat to protect the inks (gloss on armor panels, satin and matte on organics or surfaces that will need more tinting)
6. Apply your oil washes, and oil colors blending.
7. Edge highlight and last specular highlights (skin, satin effect on cloth etc..)
8. Matte coat (unless im trying to do contrast with finishes ex. gloss blood effects, satin armor paneling and matte organics, but I know this when I start so ill avoid using liquin in non gloss areas)
My next projects im trying capture a just started monsoon rain on a kriegsman, so his clothes just started getting wet, theres a zenithal satin coat from above, using a straw against slightly tacky resin to mark where recent raindrops have fallen in puddles. Its freaking hard, and my tests dont look quite right - yet.
Anyways, my shpiel is over. Happy painting yall!
Thanks for sharing! I've been doing more oils lately and recently have been using them for both washes and edge/detail highlights. The highlights has worked great because I use a miniscule brush (5-10 zero round brush) and since the paint takes a long time to dry I'm not getting dry tips because of having a delicate amount of paint on the brush, like I would with acrylics.
Thanks for all the tips AB, I appreciate it.
Anywhere we can view your minis?
Thanks for refraining from the most obvious click bait Alex, that's why I love your channel so much.
As soon as I see a "you're doing it wrong" thumbnail that's the last time that channel gets recommended to me 😊
Thanks SM. I mean, I will have to do it every now and again, some kind of clickbait. The last two videos have taken a lot of effort, but are doing rather bad. This in itself affects what sponsors think it worth supporting the channel, and in the end affects how much time I can afford to put into making videos. Because of the economy right now, patrons are dropping off as well. If "warhammer stole my lawnmower" works to lure people in.. well I hate it.. but I see why it gets done.
Hello! I'm an oil painter who uses oils to paint minis more-or-less exclusively. I love seeing you make use of oils on your projects as you do a wonderful job and your figures look great! I just wanted to add that using a fan and radiator to "dry" oil paint faster as seen at the 10:35 mark is not actually beneficial: oils do not dry through evaporation like acrylics do, but rather through polymerization, or said another way, through a chemical process of hardening. You can blow air at them all day and it will only have a negligible effect. The best way to make them dry faster is to add an tiny bit of alkyd medium to your paint. With alkyd, you can cut dry time from a couple days (depending on the pigment, some take longer) to around 12-24 hours (again, depending on the pigment and brand, etc.) Cheers and best of luck, and please keep incorporating oils; it's fun to watch!!!
Thanks Arma!
Heat facilitates polymerisation speed - putting oils paints near a radiator with a fan would definitely help speed up the reaction, as it causes faster heat transfer (think a bit like a convection oven). The 'issue' here (if you can call it that) is that too much oil paint was used - smaller amounts make for much quicker drying times :)
@@NikkiAnnMarie yes, I notice a big difference on shorter drying times when the mini is warm and dry, especially in my chilly slightly damp bunker. A window in the sun does wonders. I had no issue with thick layers of paint really, just a RUclips video deadline :)
Or just use alkyd resin paint, 4 to 8 hour drying time 😊 W&N has a pretty good range.
I remember reading something from BROM where he suggested starting with an acrylic undercoat to lay down paint before finishing with oils. It helped me realize that you can do whatever you want, and it’s all art.
Indeed! I realise that a lot of people that buy miniatures are not interested in the art experience. But I wish the attitude surrounding the painting experience would be a little more "open" to play and fun.
"Having a hobby...it's more like a crash-test dummy's memoir on motion. At the end, as we hit the wall, we might just learn something that will improve our survival chances when in the next crash."
Immediately shared that with my wife and two friends.
Hah, thanks Andrew
Man, your word about "not telling you how to do, but rather learning my own way myself" is way more encouraging than half of that guides around.
Thanks Sergei!
Rule breaking is my nature!! Thanks for you supporting my character in your video!! Great stuff!!
Thanks Alan!
If I had to some up why I love this channel and what Alex does; how he is different. Now I simply point them to this video. Awesome isn't even close to good enough.
Thank you humbly Rob 🙏
I really enjoy your videos.
The fine humor in combination with the non-flasy stle of the presentation is a refreshing change of the other miniature painting videos I found during my time with the hobby.
I also don't like to be told "You have to do this like that!" or worse "You're doing it the wrong way!".
So thanks for your choice of tone.
Thank you very much!
Painted my last orc 20 years ago. Full army, never played a game. Felt sorry for them languishing away in their dark boxes, never having a chance to fight so last year I gave them to a neighbour.
Then I suddenly started thinking of painting again. Checked what I had left of paints and brushes. Turned out to be a lot. Paints all dried and brushes in poor condition. Threw the paints away and decided that the brushes could be used for terrain.
Watched a lot of videos on painting and modelling, learning stuff I wish I had known way back when. Slowly beginning to understand what I wanted to do, slowly starting to buy the models, tools, materials and paints I would need to get started. Getting a work place set up, doing some early tests on some old plastic toys…
It’s not a fast process for me but it is thourougly enjoyable. You are one of my main sources of inspiration at the moment and I think finding your channel will help me try out new things with much daring than I would have been able to muster if I only had watched the ”you’re doing it wrong” videos. You might have saved me a lot of money as well, realising that blending isn’t all that hard if you approach the learning process in a sensible way. Thank you.
Thanks and I appreciate it. I'm glad to hear you found your way back Jan. I hope you don't miss your orks to much.
I learned more from this video, watching what did and didn't work, than any other step by steps I've seen. Good job, sir
I’m glad to hear it Sam, this is what I hope for.
Bro, your videos are so easy to listen to. I like your encouraging attitude and everything. 52 Minis has become a favorite channel. Very excellent. 👍
I appreciate that Pintree
You can use the contrast paints the same way you would the transparent oil pants. Thin em however you like, glaze em, use them to tint etc. At the end of the day they're just transparent paints with a matte finish that tends to pool into recesses if applied thickly.
Yeah… but half of the ones I got where not quite transparent. Quite the surprise to me.
@@52Miniatures yeah quite a few of them have some pretty crazy tinting strength. I'd recommend the ones that are single pigment and then mix and thin as you need.
Transparent oil pants 😅
'Vive la révolution' Painting is changing, to anything you want.
This is my favorite method of painting. Awesome work. Love your attitude about "have to" and "how to".
Thanks so NH!
I love it when you break all the rules! Hey, I don't even know what the rules are most of the time, but it's comforting to know that we don't need to get hung up on adhering to THE RIGHT WAY, THE BEST WAY or THE ONLY WAY. What fun would that be? Another superb mini presented with your usual charm and wit. Thank you!
Thank you Mark. There are probably rules. I think one of them is “don’t listen to The Man” also, “do the opposite of what your parents told you”. Maybe if we try the same with mini painting?
@@52Miniatures Well, I'll heartily endorse the firs rule, t, but on reflection, I will credit my parents with getting it right far more often than the other way. I was fortunate I suppose, and I am certainly grateful.
Now, what you should of done is Varnish, once they were dry 😜
Love the minis & your narrative style of painting 👍👍👍
love the way the acrylic on the oil looks. that is so cool, looks very organic
Glad you like it!
I can’t stop looking at this piece, your painting has given it a life that your more usual painting styles could not really achieve…..it’s the way the oil paints work I think. Right, to be brutally honest I have learnt more from your videos and style of presentation than any of the ‘click bait’ videos I’ve ever spent time watching. Sure they give the basic ideas but that’s about it…..yours go an extra dimension. I feel the only ‘right’ way to paint something (and u]this is just my opinion and nothing more), is by painting and developing your own style and techniques…..by following others ideas you get an understanding of how to start but from there we need to learn from experimentation. Thank you for the great video, I look forward to your next inspirational post!
Thank you very much Andy, I humbly appreciate it. I kind of don't want to get in the way, if you see what I mean. I don't like telling people what to do or cloud their judgment with half assed guesses (I'm no art scholar). This is getting way to deep but I think this is something that I'm not sure we've quite considered... We look at a lot of people with a RUclips channel (including me) as teachers or "masters". Yet how many actually have the proper skillset to teach? Teaching is a great responsibility that also is about not shaping an individual to much, just showing them the road... Do it wrong and things can get kind of narrow minded. And here we are creating an environment where we are fin being taught and told how things should be done by folk that might not be using the right tools to do it. And by that I don't mean lacking skills in the painting department. Just a thought.
Your videos are relaxing and inspiring. Thank you for who you are and what you do.
Thanks E!
really enjoy your mindset towards painting miniatures
Happy to hear that!
What a gorgeous miniature, your paintjob really did it justice!
Thank you Hedu
Definitely the most thoughtful painting channel I follow. Thanks for this and the paint job looks beautiful!
Thanks Robot!
Always happy to kick back and enjoy the great quality of your videos.
I appreciate that!
I do find that I have a lot more success with contrasts when I use them out of the pot or on a dry palette rather than a wet palette, the wet palette tends to dilute them or change their consistency too much in my (admittedly limited) experience
With the contrast from GW, try to change the order: zenital prime, contrast, colorful oil wash and edge highlights with opaque acrilic. This combination is awesome
I really like your approach. My approach to painting is similar: more or less "let's just see what happens". If it's a disaster, oh well, but it might be a great success and discover some wonderful new technique which I wouldn't otherwise. I tend to ignore what people online say, other than sometimes thinking things they do look interesting and think I might like to try it myself.
I think I came across you channel via Miniac. I've been quite inspired by your chill and laid back approach to the hobby, as well as the work you do.
I was most amused by your crash test dummy analogy. It did resonate with me. Not that my attempts are car crashes, but some are not successes. They can be fun and part of the journey non the less.
Here's to all the crash test dummies, prepared to give it another go.
Thank you humbly Bishop
Alex this is ~really~ something! Your careful approach and consideration over oil paints for the last few months has really paid off; so much so that in combination with the fact that my FLGS now carries Vallejo Xpress paints and my entire philosophy (previously trying to do EVERYTHING with oil paint) is about to be overhauled! After 4 hours of failing to achieve eyeliner on Lady Yvraine I'm ready to convert...
Outstanding! The Enchantress looks amazing. I actually quite liked the fellow you are painting at around 17:45 as well.
Thanks R. Yeah, I like the other miniature a lot!
i still remember the legend of the keeper it whas a pretty neat serie
I love mixing oils and acrylic. Oils are great for nmm and skin. But I find acrylics are great for anything with texture or crispy freehand.
Wonderful video! I like your take on the hype around miniature painting.
Thank you very much Chris
Fantastic work as always 52! Lovely relaxing video
Thank you Mate!
Hobby heaven my friend! Daring to be different is the frontline, stay strong ❤️🙏🏻
Thank you Carbide! I believe I have to pick that up now, with a few "instant yellow onna space marine" videos. But I do what I can.
@@52Miniatures Cheeky monkey 😉
All hail the Alpha as it is the Omega for our hobby
Oil paints on miniatures .._it's like recreated the era of the Old Masters !
Brillant results,congratulations !
Love Old Holland and Blockx because no oil separation with the pigments ..
Thanks 🙏 yes, at some point I want to look into getting some other brands of oil paints.
Alex as soon as you come up in my feed I just click like before I watch be6i know I'm going on a journey I need a packed lunch for and be totally overwhelmed by the end and I have never been disappointed. If you ever do an audio story book I would buy and that's a hint for something you should think of adding to your to do bucket list.
Thank you I!
cool video! I've always been keen to try oil paints. Might just do that now.
PS: I like the narration style/structure in this video
Awesome, thank you, and please do try
That tree turned me into a newt!!!!! However I did get better. Hahahahahhaha. As alway brother, the world is a better kinder place when we have that voodoo that you do so well. Thanks for the magic my freind. Another masterpiece!
Thank you Charles!
I haven't gotten much into painting minis yet, but I do traditional watercolor, gouache, etc etc. I love trying out new things. I also have learned to accept that there are some things that I just DO NOT LIKE, even though they're popular, or I'm told it should work for what I'm doing. Yeah, no. Trying something more than once to get the hang of it makes sense, but...some things might just not work for you. The nipply tree looks awesome!
Thanks Annie. I agree and hope that maybe some people walk away with that feeling from this video. I don't like to tell people what to do. So this is my way of saying. "just because the company and half the people on YT say this is the only paint to use does not mean it's any good - or for you".
Always happy when I see you put out a video Alex, I recommend your channel to friends who aren't big into the hobby because I feel your the best to explain what's interesting about the hobby and why a lot of people like it without making it seem like if people aren't fans then that's their fault.
In terms of the Contrast Paints I'm sorry you've had those experiences with them, they are definitely hit and miss for many people and it's hard to tell what's good with some of them. I use them with more of a grey zenithal than white but that's a preference and shouldn't be a requirement for them to work better in a sense. I did however pick up a good tip for another use for them which is a quick Base coat for a miniature, use them more as a base coat, put a wash over it, then layer up from there. It works really well so if you do try them again for any reason I recommend trying that way to see if you like that method better
Thanks for the tip Ovan, I appreciate it.
Fabulous job on the enchantress. The blue really does set it off.
I tend to use Contrast as a heavy wash, glaze or to paint in the shadows directly. I also find that the undercoat makes a difference especially for yellow and red. Rather than go with the classic black/white zenithal, I choose brown/breached bone. If need be then a bit white can be added. It produces a warmer feel. Also reds stay red and not some form of pink. For a cool tone, then grey/white or bluish grey/white. Posiibly replace the white with the likes of Vallejo Game Colour Ghost Grey or Wolf Grey. The Air version of Wolf Grey is useful even without the airbrush.
Finally I heartily recommend P3 Blighted Gold. I think makes a lovely base for brass and brighter gold finishes.
Thanks Jason, I appreciate the tip.
Hi Alex. From my experience with the contrast paint range. Most of them work well as a vibrant wash over and original colour. They work well as a shade while also glazing and intensifying the under colour. There are a few exceptions but if you just use a zenithal prime, most wish will look very ,it’s and washed out. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Dan, I appreciate it. I kind of hoped there would be more :) As I can use other transparent paints for what you mention.
Great production quality and inspiring paint job, just as always!
Thank you very much Paul!
Working in a bunker with a vault-tec mug. There some sort of meta message here. Especially with the "crash test zone." This will lead to a vibrant table of Silver Bayonet for sure. I have the same issues with the GW contrast colour names. They're not what they claim to be. Unless the weird alien names mean that they're not really the colours they claim to be. Thus they are what they claim to be? Meh, they're a tool to use from time to time. I like to use the browns as you can make decent leathers with them and combinations of them. Otherwise, black. Only the black. Probably not only the black since I just said the browns have use. Sorry for the ramble. Lovely work as always. Oil power ;D
Thanks Clyde. Yeah, the black I like. I should have stoped there, not 60 dollars later.
Honestly the spear and shield model with just metallics and black oil wash really spoke to me. I can't decide if going that monotone and limited works long term or that it needs the extra colors and variety. I'm in the same boat with contrast paints. I domt know if I haven't found colors that fit my schemes, the exact right application, or they're just not for me.
Hah, I agree with you G. I think it looks great. Kind oof wouldn't mind that as a base for an army. Maybe with some browns on leather parts.
Kickstarter Here: www.kickstarter.com/projects/563681582/legend-of-keepers-5e-reverse-dungeon-and-stl-miniatures?ref=4yu1fm
I'm with you on the contrast paints, Alex. I find the classic zenithal/slapchop application to look a little "sketchbooky" (nothing wrong with it, just not my intended effect usually). I have about two colors from the line that I use regularly on pretty desaturated areas, like dead skin or old leathers, and find they shine best when paired with some really eye-popping contrast on vibrant, edge highlighted details like armor. Good luck on your continuing journey to crashdom!
Aye, I have felt that too sometimes. It very much seems like setting out a rough sketch style in which I can choose to fill in as much as I like, or not. I'm glad this method exists and it's certainly very useful for getting all the hues coloured in broadly, but I feel
Also, a good method with contrast is to add in some ivory if you want to highlight over it. It actually changes it into a more opaque highlight colour that can be useful for more pastel colours.
Thanks Ben 👍
Completely agree on the whole "right way to paint" thing. I never understand the point of view that leads people to complain about how other people paint. To me, the thing that draws me to a painted miniature is usually what is done differently from the average.
On the contrast paint topic, it did seem like they weren't behaving quite as expected. Two things I can think of, 1 they need shaking up a lot more than most paints, adding an agitator ball is a good idea because the pigment can settle if they're left on the shelf too long. 2 their properties can change if you use a wet pallet, I generally use them with a dry pallet, mixed with water they behave quite differently and I wonder if that's what happened to the Baal Red, because it is a quite strong colour in my experience.
Thanks for the tip K. I did shake them a lot, even used my spinny paint thing. But I’ll see how things go next time.
Thank you for sharing the gift of inspiring visuals and smooth story telling. I tried to paint along with something different (but equally sinuous as that enchantress); a diplodocus. 'got halfway through with 2 viewings of this video; maybe I'll be able to finish it while watching one of your longer vids. Thanks again for the lessons.
Thanks Neil and good luck!
Those minis look so cool. Great paint job! This inspires me
Beautiful Alex. I don't know if I mentioned but, a $10 uv sterilizer compact florescent bulb in a foil lined box cures oils in less than 2 hours. Turn the sculpt every 30 minutes or so. Whites take the longest. Alizeran crimson can be effected by too much uv, I try to paint that last if I'm using multiple rounds of uv. I still use it because it's such a perfect red. Imo.))
I’ll look into that, thank you Gary
Always enjoyable....... dont stop!
Thanks John
Nice to see a different approach to painting minis. A pleasure to watch as ever.
Many thanks Kristoff I appreciate it
I think The Enchantress turned out lovely. I do not paint miniatures myself but I stumbled across your channel and I was mesmerized by your dynamic so thank you for sharing your creations with the world .
Well thank you Katie, I really appreciate you saying this.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Thanks for sharing your journey
Thanks Mark!
As always, I like your experimental but very honest approach.
You don't try to diminish the mistakes, tries and disappointments. Like you say, all is not magic and not for everyone, but trying something new, understanding complementary techniques and materials, even when it's in the end not to your liking, is a great share.
Plus, I always appreciate your calm and "paternalistic" way of speaking and explaining.
thank you K! As I don't really have a clue, it comes naturally... hah
Absolutely love this paint job! Some people want and need to be shown the 'best' and 'only' way videos (and I certainly watch them too) but a great many of us love this more artistic take! I love to see your process and definitely learn plenty on the way.
It may not be the way to get the most views but I hope this style of content never goes away!
Thank you N, I do appreciate it.
beautiful work and beautiful video
Thanks SS! I appreciate it.
actually i painted some tyranids with contrast, and did the oil wash in the next step. it turned out rather well, took me 4x8 hours to do roughly 1000-1200 points army.
i really enjoyed watching you bring this model to life. Your philosophy towards painting is definitely something we should all aspire to, learning and creating is seldom a perfect process, i will defintely hae a look at some oil colours and see what i can turn an ork into.
hope you have a wonderful day and thank you for making this video
I'm a cautious painter. Oils suit me very well.
Beautiful...again!
Thank you so much 😊
@@52Miniatures Thank you for sharing!
Thank you for sharing not only your wild ideas but also your frustrations while realizing those ideas. I feel like there's a lot of times when we look at what we're painting and the thing is in the "messy phase" and we don't really know what to do with it, or, like you, we tried something different and it didn't go the way we wanted to. Frustration arises and it's so hard to just sit down to paint again after that.
But persistence is the key and working a bit more with the stuff we've trained, will bring a good result. Trust the process and keep it going.
Goodspeed! o7
Thank you Valdo, I appreciate it.
I've never been a huge fan of contrast paints either tbh. Oil paints are far more fun too
Really cool.
Thanks for this little (ad-)venture into oil paints :) I have been using them since I got back into the hobby about 3-4 years ago based on marco frisonis amazing results. Pretty great, different workflow, but wholeheartedly enjoyable.
As for contrast paints, again marco has been using them to great effect over black and white sketches like zenithal primes and I tried SO hard to achieve the vibrancy and depth in colour he manages on his models. I did get there when I started thinning my contrast paints down quite a bit. And then my goodness it opened doors for me. Especially Wyldwood and Snakebite Leather work so well if you 50:50 them with water. Also wetblending is so easy with contrast, nearly feels like oilpaints, there has to be something in the medium which not only prolongs the drying time, but also reactivates applied contrast to a certain point.
I very much encourage experimentation, because contrast is so much more than GW wants it to be used for ;)
Again thank you so much for the video, looking forward to your next dives into "alternate" styles. Also great work on the videography, as always!
Thanks Bene. Yes there must be a certain reactivation thing, I know I've had a varnish reactive contrast paint at some point. I might keep experimenting with the contrasts.. but I very much enjoy using other transparent options, colours I know better because they are labelled better.
@@52Miniatures that's absolutely fair and if we would all just use the same colours over and over it would get boring pretty soon😁
I feel that zenithal drybrushing (or drybrush in general) is one of the obligatory steps for a grim dark look. After some thinking I believe it is about that dusty, patchy and rough look. But why is this an auto-include? I believe what makes something looks "grim" is a rough transition from highlight to shadow, smaller highlights and darker, desaturated mid-tones. But these things all come as a box. I tried to go at it with a different approach: after the regular priming, I prepared a variety of interesting mid tones and desaturated them with a bit of straight black, also darkened them a lot. I sprayed them on the miniature not within blocks, but with smooth transitions. Then I blocked in base coats (also desaturated with black), but not as a base layer, but more as a first highlight. So for the pure basecoat color and the first highlight, I had very little room to place them. For me, this worked great, because I felt like a captured the drybrushing and dark-washing techniques purposes for a grim dark look in a deliberate approach to paint differently.
Looks cool and you probably need it. Yep.
It’s always fun to take these journeys with you. Your skill levels may have elevated you outside of the realm of contrast paints. I myself use them as a base coat only (over zenithal) and highlight and further shade with acrylics.
Thanks Bill.
Another great video, Alex. I have serious anxiety about starting a new project. Your videos help give me the confidence to get paint on models and it always ends up working out.
Great to hear that my videos can help Ryan. Thank you for letting me know.
I'll suggest acrylic inks to add color to your grim dark foundation. Use both transparent and opaque finding you way with both as you go. Experience is the best teacher here. I find it works for me.
Matte varnish, as you mentioned, can be helpful along the way.
Brands for the inks... Liqutex Acrylic Inks, Daler Rowney FW series, and Dr Ph. Martin's Spectralite private collection acrylics all bring something to the table.
Made with fine art pigments, acrylic inks are perfect for layering washes of color, adding in detail with a fine brush, dropping pools of flowing color, splatter brushing, and speed painting. These inks are a fine art ink and not a calligraphy ink.
Hope this offers another bus stop on your journey.
Thanks Bill, yes I use inks quite a bit. Both as is and mixed with mediums for different “flow”. This was a mere experiment in using the paint a lot of people seem to be using. Thanks for the recommendations
If you like the idea of the monsters being the heroes you should read Grunts by Mary Gentle. A fun story where the main character is an Orc in Evil Horde of Darkness doing his best not to be fodder.
Hi Alex! Flesh Tearers Red Contrast is the one you want--It's one of my favorite paints. I also like Wyldwood for a nice bitter-sweet chocolate brown and Plaguebearer Flesh for the way it sediments out a little bit--it's got a green liquid and an orange-brown particulate--the effect is subtle, but I bet you can choose to enhance it a bit if you like. And I also like Gryph-hound Orange--I think it's a color that might fit your palette.
Cool, making a mental note Emily. Thank you
If you are looking for good contrast paints, Im quite happy with the new vallejo xpress line. They take thinning with water very well so making "filters" is quite easy. Some of them are quite transparent (specially black) but nothing a couple of coats doesn't fix if you want a stronger color
Thanks for the tip
Contrast paints take some getting used to. They don't do all that well over a classic zenithal because they are so transparent that any grey or black underneath desaturates them and gives them a cold tint. In rare occasions this is what you might want, but most of the time you will want to use them over a bright white or beige undercoat. I mostly still do a zenithal, but starting from grey not black, and softening the shadows, leaving only deep recesses in mid grey, so 85-90% white.
Even better, if you have colours chosen and mapped out in advance you could choose a complimentary colour for your shadow base like brown, purple, ochre, blue or green and white over that, though I've not really tried that yet since I don't really do army batch painting (which that technique would be best suited to) since if I'm airbrushing colours, I might as well airbrush all the base tones. At which point adding contrast paint would be more of a glaze than the all-in-one base coat and wash it's sold as.
Try thinning them down with medium (contrast medium if you have it). That way you can get smoother coverage and better control how much colour gets deposited over a few layers. Check out Juan Hidalgo's Heavy Contrast videos on RUclips to see how a master applies them to great effect.
Thanks for the tip Scott, I appreciate it.
Bueno ... esto es a lo que yo le llamaría una obra de arte, muy bonito trabajo :D
Grasias!
Wonderful stuff Alex! I have finally started using oil washes and don't know what I did without them, especially on terrain. And I have you to thank! So thanks! Also, I have come around on contrast paints to use as a tool for parts of the model where I don't want to spend a lot of time (i.e. boots, pouches, great for terrain) and I also like the Scale Instant paints for the same thing. Invariably I do always come back for quick highlights though. And Aggaros Dunes is great for quick and dirty sandy blonde hair!
Thanks Sean!
Fantastic video. I just recently tried out using the Zorn palette on a miniature. Using only Pro Acryl paints instead of the "standard" oil paints. But it was quite refreshing to have a limited palette, instead of being overwhelmed with far too many colors. I did a "slap chop" style base and just used glazes for the color.
Thanks R. Using single pigment paints really opens up a limited palette and I'm sometimes kind of shocked by the vibrancy.
I feel the same about Pro Acryl. Got the white, because it’s the best white their is, according to big hobby RUclipsrs. Absolutely hate it. Just doesn’t work for me. I’ll stick to Vallejo thanks. But I do have an increasing interest in using oils and not just for the washes. 👌🏻
Enchanting! :D
Despite what a lot of people suggest, I’ve had very limited success with contrast paints over zenithal. However, I’ve found them to work really well over just a grey primer+dry brushed highlights
I think the Warcolours layer paints would work nicely on your undershade experiments. They are more transparent than most other brands, without being runny. They also use a gel medium, which should be familiar since Scale75 use it (I haven't tried Scale75 myself though).
Always enjoy watching your videos homie, feel free to reach out if you ever need support or advice about oils!
Definitely agree with the “ how to do things” and “ the best way”, but there are definitely somethings to recommend avoiding and/or doing to have a more effective, enjoyable time painting with a new medium especially when theres so little on it at the moment. Still, the journey is the fun part for me!
Keep up the great work
I appreciate it, thanks O.
Not that you asked for advice, but you might consider trying a workflow more akin to this (In order):
* Zenithal Prime
* Contrast Paints
* Oil wash
* Final highlights with acrylics
You might have better results than doing the oil wash prior to the contrast layer, as you'd have more control over the way the oils and the contrast end up interacting
Thanks CP I appreciate it.
Fantastic video Man! I've been floating around the Legend of Keepers content coming out for people's opinions and feelings on the content put forwards and how they handle it (mainly the minis) so it's so much fun watching someone paint with oils and acrylics as opposed to just the latter.
As for your issues with Contrast, I do have a couple recommendations for you if you're looking to give them a... third... chance (though I am just an amateur painter).
1. Contrast as you've seen doesn't always come out as the colour on the bottle, if I had to take a guess as to why it's because the bottle is full of its pigment but when you paint with it the contrast gets overpowered by its transparency. Having test swabs before you paint helps I hear, but I'm too lazy for that lmao
2. Contrast, due to its transparency, hates dark under coats. White is amazing for it, light greys are good too, I feel like your oil wash should have worked but some of the colours may have been too thin for it. Contrast looks really chalky on a straight black under coat and I am not a fan.
3. I've never done it myself since I don't own one, but Squidmar Miniatures swears by Contrast through an airbrush, maybe trying that with your previous paint scheme is worth a go?
I hope this rando on the internet was at least slightly helpful and thank you again on covering these models, you got me humming and harring even more towards the "commit" camp!
Thanks TM. I think my major issue was that at least half of the paints I got were not as transparent as I thought they would be. Giving me a "clouded" and honestly - anti contrast result. It surprised me as the paints are called contrast....
@52 Miniatures I saw a few of the paints you got were from the second wave; Baal red, doomfire magenta, I think a few others. They changed the formula for the second batch and several of the paints are designed to be a single, non-transparent colour which, while it does help a couple issues with some paints, makes navigating them a nightmare so I completely understand the issue. It was a major point of contention when they first came out, but nowadays it makes life difficult when trying to figure out how transparent each one is
@@thingmate7361 yeah, at least half of the ones I got are slightly opaque. One very much so, a cammo green that leaves a verdigris type thing in all the crevices. Not at all what I had in mind
Its nice you are trying new ways to paint. I have myself recently started using oils but i use them a bit differently than you are. I typicaly use an airbrush to prime, zenithal and block in some colors. Airbrushing for me turns the model to the saturated way. Then i use oils to create a shade and apply it to the model. I use magenta for skintones, and burnt umber for varm colors och black for cold colors. Gold is a varm color so it gets burnt umber and silver is cold so gets a black shade. I then use q-tips to remove excess oli paint. The q-tip leaves oils in the deep parts and the raised areas will have no oils remain. I usually stops here as i think the result is good enough, but sometimes i have added some edge highlights to the raised parts(that have no oil). It would be intresting to see your result in a "oil paint and acrylic paint part 2"-clip. Lycka till!
Thanks Christian. Yes, I often use oil washes similarly and have done in quite a few videos in the past. It's a great technique.
If you buy a miniature to put across a style then it is up to you how its put across. Not how others perceive it should be done and that is the beauty of being both a modeller and an artist, where the end results speak volumes for themselves.
Thanks Atholl!
I use oils paints all the time over acrylics. I love them. Then I use water color pencils over the oils.
Nice, I've been wanting to use some of them pencils on terrain and such.
Beautiful paint job. Good crashing. Well crashed?
I have been getting into contrast paints, but only for mid tones. I will highlight and i will shadow (sic).
But then im only painting (or building) as i don't play the actual games. 🙂
Yeah I also don't like too much the constrast paint on a simple zenithal + drybrush and do the same : add more saturated colors for highlights.
1. love the mini and strongly agree with the philosophy
2. have you been watching James Wappel and Marco Frisoni recently?
Thanks Daniel. I'm afraid I don't watch much other mini painting content. I have watched Marco in the past but not much from James.
Very nice video!
Which varnish do you use?
I can’t quite remember now. There was probably several stages of varnish. The last would have been AK ultra matte.
I love your painting on this mini. And I love the mini. Do you know if they will be available for those of us who don't have a 3D printer?
I don't think so, but you could always check with Lazy Squire Games
@@52Miniatures Thank you. I'll go check there.
I own no citadel products. So many other good manufactures out there.
I'm with you, Alex. I never liked the process nor the results of Contrast style paints. It seems you've got to do all the extra work you'd end up doing anyway with regular paints, except you've now paid extra for no benefit.
By contrast (ha!) I really liked the results you got with the oils. More stylistic, maybe, definitely more of a YOU look, if you see what I mean.
Thanks Mikey. Yeah, I feel more secure with transparent inks and such, rather than contrast paints. On one hand maybe I should practice, on the other hand… maybe I should stick to what I like :)