I realize I forgot to mention, our sliplate to foundation is completely sealed with spray foam, and we have two vents from the inside of the house to the crawlspace. These vents are on the opposite side of the crawlspace from the fan so the air is pulled through the entire crawlspace! If y'all have any questions let me know!
Thanks for the videos guys. Nice to see how everyone does things a little different. For me I think I'd just put an 8ft basement in for minimal extra cost. Then in the future say 5 years when funds are available, I'd finish the floor with concrete. And then on weekends as funds are available finish the basement with framing, drywall, etc. That's a lot of extra livable space. Also I'd especially like a walk out basement to make it easy to bring firewood in a pallet at a time. To each their own though. But Great job guys!! Considering the glim financial future for our generation and future generations you're doing well to be prepared and debt free!!
Good job with the liner. I would make sure, since you are creating a negative pressure in the crawl space, that you focus on air sealing the Rim / Sill Plate / Foundation interface. I would put a layer of closed cell foam around the perimeter. Or paint the joints with a fluid applied barrier. Or use canned spray foam or acoustic sealant on those seams. I think that is what Matt would do. :-) You want to make sure YOU control where the air comes from that the vent fan removes from your house. Good Work. Also.. Make sure you are directing exterior water away from your home with grading.
If you watch some of our other videos I cover what you just suggested. Our still plate is sealed with spray foam, and the fan that was installed pulls air from the house to the crawlspace through two vents that are cut in the floor. Thanks for watching!
Just stumbled onto your channel when doing some crawl space research. Your doing a fine job for sure and I can tell you've done some decent amount of research. I just put in an Alorair HD55 commercial dehumidifier in our crawl space and it is working well. I need to encapsulate it and insulate the concrete walls as well...hence how I stubbled onto your channel. Thanks for sharing and I look forward to more of your videos.
I'm new to this and researching it for my own DIY project. You're taking 120 cubic feet of conditioned air every minute out of your house through your crawl space and dumping it outside. This means your house is pulling in 120 cubic feet of unconditioned air from the outside every minute that it will have to condition. Are there professionals recommending this? I thought the standard procedure with a closed crawl space was to add a dehumidifier and or circulate the crawl space air through the house (not outside) as it is now part of the conditioned space. Thanks
75% to 40%? Wow, congratulations! I think we will be trying to emulate what you've done in our crawlspaces shortly. There's a liner (from radon mitigation) but I think the tape, paint, and insulation are missing. About to go crawling around in there to find out for sure (ours are half as tall, so literal "crawl" spaces!).
I don't recall what kind of unions you used but typically they rely on a tapered seat to seal, they are not supposed to need any thread sealant because the threads should be dry. Occasionally when a union has a damaged taper seat, some people will use pipe dope or Teflon to try and fix it but that rarely works.
They have a gasket in them, but it wasn't the unions that leaked those, it was the threaded connection to the pump, I don't think I tightened it all the way when I was putting it all back together. Thanks for watching!
@@PootsPastures that makes sense. Well, I hope you have it solved. I'm probably going to have something like a shower pan with a floor drain under my stacked washer dryer, water heater and filter. Just a little extra protection to avoid flooding or water damage. I'm not sure if you can do that with your liner but it might help you avoid disaster if you get another leak.
Its doable, but hard because it's about 3' under grade. Eventually I'm going to put a Alarm down there that goes off if it detects water, and then have a sump pump I could use if I need to pump it out. If I was above grade I would for sure have a floor drain.
Sorry to hear about the water dilemma. Hope it didn't do any long term damage to your pump. Also, you're basically correct about the radon. Did you happen to get a radon test done?
I was told not encapsulate because of Radon. Any thoughts? I have thick insulation on my walls, vents are closed and there is a dehumidifier in the crawl space.
Encapsulated crawl space with crawlspace dehumidifier. Add a vent fan for the radon. This job seemed a bit over complicated pulling air from the house down into crawlspace
Mainly because of time restraints with equipment, and how rocky it was. We also didn't need a large space in most of the crawlspace as our only utilities down there are water, power and gas lines and only a few things go to the center. I can stand up completely (between joists) along the Perimeter as well so everywhere someone needs to be it's very comfortable.
It makes the crawlspace an enclosed space which keeps moisture at the same level of the interior of the house protecting against mold and rot. It also increases indoor air quality, and will protect the interior of the home against radon gasses which is a problem where we are. Hope that answered your question!
Could you have done a slab on grade? Or a Post Tension Slab? And yeah Radon can kill pretty quick. I came from Prescott AZ and with how much granite is there it is a big issue in building there.
Yes slab on grade was my first choice but because I wanted to do most of it myself I didn't want to attempt a slab for my first ever concrete pour. I don't think I would do post tension, although I do really like the concept of it, I think price might limit me there. Thanks for watching!
@@aaronbrent-fulps2495it’s a good idea to use PT (post tension) in AZ because we have a lot of Caleche and expansive clay that destroys concrete and roads.
I think it looks good..but i would put foil below and put some sand on top of it so you can walk on it ..also it would works better..btw i would add also timer for your pump.. It happen to me that after some changeover i didn't tighten one join very well and pump showed..low pressure..so it was on all the time ..i did notice it ..but only after about 30 minutes..anyway.. i put timer that is chacking time and it allow pump to stay on max 2 minutes after that it will switch off pump and wouldn't allow to run any more. and as i said in previous video pressure valve..that would help you a lot to have constant pressure over all your appliances..
If I were to do it again, I would just pour a layer of concrete over a moisture barrier, and make a mini basement, but we had some time and equipment constraints with excavation so we couldn't get a totally flat surface. We did add the foam under the plastic in the areas you walk to try and help wear and tear. Do you have a link to the timer you used, we had a small mishap like yours, but it was caught pretty quick because you can hear the pump when you are in the bathroom and it only stays on for about a minute after the water is turned off, so when it didn't turn off I knew something was up.
I realize I forgot to mention, our sliplate to foundation is completely sealed with spray foam, and we have two vents from the inside of the house to the crawlspace. These vents are on the opposite side of the crawlspace from the fan so the air is pulled through the entire crawlspace! If y'all have any questions let me know!
I was yelling “vent upside down”! Glad you heard me.
Haha yeah thanks for that I would have felt real dumb if I screwed it in that way lol
Crawlspace ninja is a great source of info for diy
Thanks for the videos guys. Nice to see how everyone does things a little different. For me I think I'd just put an 8ft basement in for minimal extra cost. Then in the future say 5 years when funds are available, I'd finish the floor with concrete. And then on weekends as funds are available finish the basement with framing, drywall, etc. That's a lot of extra livable space. Also I'd especially like a walk out basement to make it easy to bring firewood in a pallet at a time.
To each their own though. But Great job guys!! Considering the glim financial future for our generation and future generations you're doing well to be prepared and debt free!!
Good job with the liner. I would make sure, since you are creating a negative pressure in the crawl space, that you focus on air sealing the Rim / Sill Plate / Foundation interface. I would put a layer of closed cell foam around the perimeter. Or paint the joints with a fluid applied barrier. Or use canned spray foam or acoustic sealant on those seams. I think that is what Matt would do. :-) You want to make sure YOU control where the air comes from that the vent fan removes from your house. Good Work. Also.. Make sure you are directing exterior water away from your home with grading.
If you watch some of our other videos I cover what you just suggested. Our still plate is sealed with spray foam, and the fan that was installed pulls air from the house to the crawlspace through two vents that are cut in the floor.
Thanks for watching!
Just stumbled onto your channel when doing some crawl space research. Your doing a fine job for sure and I can tell you've done some decent amount of research. I just put in an Alorair HD55 commercial dehumidifier in our crawl space and it is working well. I need to encapsulate it and insulate the concrete walls as well...hence how I stubbled onto your channel. Thanks for sharing and I look forward to more of your videos.
I'm new to this and researching it for my own DIY project. You're taking 120 cubic feet of conditioned air every minute out of your house through your crawl space and dumping it outside. This means your house is pulling in 120 cubic feet of unconditioned air from the outside every minute that it will have to condition. Are there professionals recommending this? I thought the standard procedure with a closed crawl space was to add a dehumidifier and or circulate the crawl space air through the house (not outside) as it is now part of the conditioned space. Thanks
75% to 40%? Wow, congratulations! I think we will be trying to emulate what you've done in our crawlspaces shortly. There's a liner (from radon mitigation) but I think the tape, paint, and insulation are missing. About to go crawling around in there to find out for sure (ours are half as tall, so literal "crawl" spaces!).
I don't recall what kind of unions you used but typically they rely on a tapered seat to seal, they are not supposed to need any thread sealant because the threads should be dry.
Occasionally when a union has a damaged taper seat, some people will use pipe dope or Teflon to try and fix it but that rarely works.
They have a gasket in them, but it wasn't the unions that leaked those, it was the threaded connection to the pump, I don't think I tightened it all the way when I was putting it all back together.
Thanks for watching!
@@PootsPastures that makes sense. Well, I hope you have it solved.
I'm probably going to have something like a shower pan with a floor drain under my stacked washer dryer, water heater and filter. Just a little extra protection to avoid flooding or water damage. I'm not sure if you can do that with your liner but it might help you avoid disaster if you get another leak.
Its doable, but hard because it's about 3' under grade. Eventually I'm going to put a Alarm down there that goes off if it detects water, and then have a sump pump I could use if I need to pump it out. If I was above grade I would for sure have a floor drain.
Where did you buy the supplies
Sorry to hear about the water dilemma. Hope it didn't do any long term damage to your pump. Also, you're basically correct about the radon. Did you happen to get a radon test done?
I did not get a radon test done, I thought about it, but never got around to doing it.
Thanks for watching!
I was told not encapsulate because of Radon. Any thoughts? I have thick insulation on my walls, vents are closed and there is a dehumidifier in the crawl space.
Just a heads up concrete countertops get stained very easily and everyone I know that has put them in has had issues with staining.
Thanks for the info, I still have to do some research into how to seal it. Do you know how they sealed them?
I should open a business doing this with my experience in hvac
Encapsulated crawl space with crawlspace dehumidifier. Add a vent fan for the radon.
This job seemed a bit over complicated pulling air from the house down into crawlspace
What is the name of the moisture barrier you used?
What is the name of that white tape?
Why didn't you remove the excess soil before putting up the stem walls so you had a more useful flat dirt base in the crawl space?
Mainly because of time restraints with equipment, and how rocky it was. We also didn't need a large space in most of the crawlspace as our only utilities down there are water, power and gas lines and only a few things go to the center. I can stand up completely (between joists) along the Perimeter as well so everywhere someone needs to be it's very comfortable.
Do you know what the approximate materials cost was for this? Trying to decide if I'm going to do mine myself or have it done professionally.
I believe the materials cost about 600 total, maybe a little less
You’ve been watching crawl space ninja 😁
I've seen a few of their videos lol!
Does crawl space ninja have a video recommending this type of venting for a sealed crawl space?
Very interesting stuff! What functions does the liner provide?
It makes the crawlspace an enclosed space which keeps moisture at the same level of the interior of the house protecting against mold and rot. It also increases indoor air quality, and will protect the interior of the home against radon gasses which is a problem where we are. Hope that answered your question!
@@PootsPastures perfect!
Could you have done a slab on grade? Or a Post Tension Slab?
And yeah Radon can kill pretty quick. I came from Prescott AZ and with how much granite is there it is a big issue in building there.
Yes slab on grade was my first choice but because I wanted to do most of it myself I didn't want to attempt a slab for my first ever concrete pour. I don't think I would do post tension, although I do really like the concept of it, I think price might limit me there. Thanks for watching!
Why do a pt slab if it’s not load bearing?
@@aaronbrent-fulps2495it’s a good idea to use PT (post tension) in AZ because we have a lot of Caleche and expansive clay that destroys concrete and roads.
I think it looks good..but i would put foil below and put some sand on top of it so you can walk on it ..also it would works better..btw i would add also timer for your pump..
It happen to me that after some changeover i didn't tighten one join very well and pump showed..low pressure..so it was on all the time ..i did notice it ..but only after about 30 minutes..anyway.. i put timer that is chacking time and it allow pump to stay on max 2 minutes after that it will switch off pump and wouldn't allow to run any more. and as i said in previous video pressure valve..that would help you a lot to have constant pressure over all your appliances..
If I were to do it again, I would just pour a layer of concrete over a moisture barrier, and make a mini basement, but we had some time and equipment constraints with excavation so we couldn't get a totally flat surface. We did add the foam under the plastic in the areas you walk to try and help wear and tear. Do you have a link to the timer you used, we had a small mishap like yours, but it was caught pretty quick because you can hear the pump when you are in the bathroom and it only stays on for about a minute after the water is turned off, so when it didn't turn off I knew something was up.
your wife looks stressed as fuck lol