$2980, 1550 sqft crawlspace. Did it on my own, by Crawlspace Ninja guidelines. 1.5 months on weekends. I was quoted $18k. Now I will say this, I will never do it again. I can see why its pricey. Labor intensive when most everything is done on your back or side. Some sitting. Max height is 3ft in mine. But the benefits are awesome. Noticed them about one month after approaching spring. Barely run the heat. Crawlspace stays within 3-4 degrees of the house
Ours in Bristol TN UnderStructureRepair costs $3 per square foot of area + 385 to insulate the band joists + 2000 for the dehumidifier. 1500 sqft. Treated everything and also got rid of Radon at no charge . 5 ⭐️
Getting estimates now for 1000sqft crawl, no major issues, just humidity and condensation in summer (NC). So far, the estimates have ranged from $6700 to $21000. The low estimate did not include a dehumidifier. We've had 5 estimates so far and what I find interesting as a potential customer is they all do it differently and they don't ask or care what the customer wants. When I ask if they can do something I want or prefer, the answer is usually 'no, we don't do it that way'. As a customer, I'm having difficulty finding a company that will do what I want.
The problem you are running into is you are asking a company to do it differently who has trained their employees to do it one way. This one way is typically the way that ensures quality control and allows them to warranty the project. We have "stepped out of our norm" a couple times and every. single. time. it ends up causing us more problems and reduces the customers experience that they had with our company. It is a lose-lose in our opinion. Hopefully you are able to find a company to handle this for you.
Thanks for all the great advice. I hope you can help me with an issue. The crawl space floor is concrete. There are 2 pony walls. The walls are open 2x4’s, 32” high. One is about 48’ long, the other is about 27’ long. They sit on a concrete curb that varies from 2” up to 6”. How do I deal with installing the sheet plastic in/around these walls to get an effective encapsulation? I don’t want to close them off as I need to be able to pass thru the walls to access plumbing/electrical in the future. Thanks, Jon
Realize this is a year old but hoping someone will reply - up north, if you were to insulate the walls (so as to be able to run pipes and drains in the space and not worry about freezing/bursting) would there be value in also insulating the ground (would it be under or over the plastic barrier?) and one heat line and one cold air return to the furnace to keep air moving (cold in summer, hot in winter) - is that the right or wrong way of thinking?
It's foolhardy to even suggest that there shouldn't be a drainage system installed anywhere in the United States in any residential home. When it rains and if the grade is not correct a drainage system will be needed. Let's take an average of 1100 square foot crawl space like mine. So that means doing a lot of planned in advance. Then on perimeter trenches, lots of digging in the crawl space and other areas where you know the drainage is needed, and hauling out a lot of dirt. It takes 54, 5-gallon buckets to remove one yard of soil. Each bucket weighs about 55 lb. That's many thousands of pounds. And then the intense labor to dig the trenches, haul nearly 3 yards of 3/4 rock down into the trenches with 3 to 4-in perforated pipe, with a very porous fabric around the pipe. This then with 2 to 3 inches of rock atop perforated pipe in trench, covered by 2 to 3 inches of rock. So, Trench, then the fabric along the surface of the soil trench, then the rock then the pipe then more rock covered flat along the grade. Once that's all done and it works correctly, it all channels into a sump pump pit and proper 15 gallon basin that's perforated and back filled with three to four inches of rock around the sump pump basin with a proper sump pump like a Zoeller. So when this guy says $6300 to $7,000, that's untrue. Add another $5,000 if you have a contractor do the drainage system. Then add a new sump pump & basin. And if there's any structural work needing to be done, that needs to be taken care of before anything else. That includes replacing posts, removing old insulation and so on. All told, if you have a company do all this, it'll be over $20,000. If you do it yourself with structural work, drainage system included, and then a good 12 to 15 mm Vapor Barrier partial or full encapsulation it'll run you anywhere from 4 to $6,000 but you'll need to hire a team of two guys to help you because three guys minimum needs to do this job. If you do it yourself you run out of steam, make mistakes or quit. There are rare occasions of course that one guy can do it but it's really make sense to hire a couple of guys that are General Contractors that follow your plan to the letter. Tooling up and supplies will run you at least $1,000 alone. Spend at least 6 months to 12 months planning this on paper. Have contractors come out and look at it, you'll learn a lot but never use them. You'll pick up some helpful tips from them for free. Some will give you bad advice but you learn to know what's good and what's bad advise. You'll need to Electrify your crawl space as well so you can see. Otherwise you're not going to do a very good job. That runs anywhere 300 to $1,000. The longer you research the easier to get. You can't research this in a few weeks and expect to do it next month. You'll fail. Otherwise plan out, find a couple of general contractors to charge anywhere from $30 to $50 an hour. Their labor alone will run you around $3,500. Hope this helps!
5 ⭐️ for UnderStructureRepair in Bristol. $3 per square feet of area. + 500 set up fee + $1900 top dehumidifier. They were 1/2 what the others were but proved they were superior. Low overhead. Super Professional.
I have a small 920 sq ft house with maybe 2-3 ft in height underneath. I was quoted $9500 for my crawl space to be cleaned out, encapsulated, sealed, dehumidifier, and lights. I live in central Arkansas
Rest assured, that $575 dehumidifier is not the same quality or standard that a professional company will install. The old saying "you get what you pay for" rings true here.
19k for mine, had standing water in heavy rains, no mold. 1200sqft 24" height (low working height) contactor hand dug added drainage pipe and gravel, added sump pump 60' exterior drain pipe, pier and wall encapsulation with insulation. Aldair dehumidifier with remote controller.
@HydroHelp911 seems to have. I had standing water, luckily plenty of airflow. They said the 1951 floor joists looked new, no mold. I got lucky. It's like a Tupperware bowl for a crawl space now, but it was expensive.
Smell depends on a lot of variables, however, we have had some pretty good success with eliminating smells for customers by encapsulating their crawl space.
You are comparing what you have in the dehumidifier itself to a video and price that talk about the dehumidifier, condensation pump, duct kit, riser, licensed electrician to install an outlet and the labor to install said dehumidifier. You are comparing apples to oranges my friend.
For just encapsulation only, that's outrageous, but it depends on partial or full, a dehumidifier, mold removal, mold treatment, sealing vents and all cracks and openings including the access door, removal of existing insulation, insulating rim joists, and even soda blasting to kill spores. I got a quote for a 2,000 square foot house with stand-up (mostly) crawlspace, no water issues like that for $18,000. I have no way to pay for that as a retired 75-year-old lady. Yours should be more like $5,000. Or do it yourself; it's real simple, just labor intensive.
@@marissa8429 That's not much even if it includes proper installation of a vapor barrier. There's no point in doing any of that if you would still have open air vents. Also, disturbing the soil too much creates additional problems sometimes. Leave it be unless it's just slight scrapings. I'm in the south so there is a lower cost of living here than in many other places. Get lots of estimates and educate yourself so you don't get taken. There's a lot to learn and lots of folks out there happy to take more of your money than they should. Take your time; it's a ton of money, a major purchase. You could buy a car for that much money.
No. Not true. Worked for contractors my entire life who do end to end. And never have issues these people are trying to rip people off. And encapsulation of the block huh?? What do you think it's sitting on duh...
@@EvangelistRobertBlack79 end to end? Meaning one day your would be doing roofing and then next you would be doing paint? In other words, this area of construction is not what y’all specialized in? This is ALL we specialize in. We would argue that our 400+ google reviews and 5-10 customer video testimonials on our page would show that we are not here to rip anyone off. We appreciate your constructive comment…
$2980, 1550 sqft crawlspace. Did it on my own, by Crawlspace Ninja guidelines. 1.5 months on weekends. I was quoted $18k. Now I will say this, I will never do it again. I can see why its pricey. Labor intensive when most everything is done on your back or side. Some sitting. Max height is 3ft in mine. But the benefits are awesome. Noticed them about one month after approaching spring. Barely run the heat. Crawlspace stays within 3-4 degrees of the house
Great job! This is definitely hard work and not easy.
Ours in Bristol TN UnderStructureRepair costs $3 per square foot of area + 385 to insulate the band joists + 2000 for the dehumidifier. 1500 sqft. Treated everything and also got rid of Radon at no charge . 5 ⭐️
Very nice detailed explanation.
I know you will be successful if you are a honest hard worker.
Thanks a lot!
Getting estimates now for 1000sqft crawl, no major issues, just humidity and condensation in summer (NC). So far, the estimates have ranged from $6700 to $21000. The low estimate did not include a dehumidifier. We've had 5 estimates so far and what I find interesting as a potential customer is they all do it differently and they don't ask or care what the customer wants. When I ask if they can do something I want or prefer, the answer is usually 'no, we don't do it that way'. As a customer, I'm having difficulty finding a company that will do what I want.
The problem you are running into is you are asking a company to do it differently who has trained their employees to do it one way. This one way is typically the way that ensures quality control and allows them to warranty the project. We have "stepped out of our norm" a couple times and every. single. time. it ends up causing us more problems and reduces the customers experience that they had with our company. It is a lose-lose in our opinion. Hopefully you are able to find a company to handle this for you.
Wish you guys were in Louisiana, would love to have yall do my house!
Great job and honest answer, great explanation
Glad it was helpful!
Hi there, your videos are so nice and gorgeouse and also all thumbnails is nice and I rate this 10.
Thank you so much!
Thanks for all the great advice. I hope you can help me with an issue. The crawl space floor is concrete. There are 2 pony walls. The walls are open 2x4’s, 32” high. One is about 48’ long, the other is about 27’ long. They sit on a concrete curb that varies from 2” up to 6”. How do I deal with installing the sheet plastic in/around these walls to get an effective encapsulation? I don’t want to close them off as I need to be able to pass thru the walls to access plumbing/electrical in the future.
Thanks, Jon
Realize this is a year old but hoping someone will reply - up north, if you were to insulate the walls (so as to be able to run pipes and drains in the space and not worry about freezing/bursting) would there be value in also insulating the ground (would it be under or over the plastic barrier?) and one heat line and one cold air return to the furnace to keep air moving (cold in summer, hot in winter) - is that the right or wrong way of thinking?
It's foolhardy to even suggest that there shouldn't be a drainage system installed anywhere in the United States in any residential home. When it rains and if the grade is not correct a drainage system will be needed.
Let's take an average of 1100 square foot crawl space like mine. So that means doing a lot of planned in advance. Then on perimeter trenches, lots of digging in the crawl space and other areas where you know the drainage is needed, and hauling out a lot of dirt. It takes 54, 5-gallon buckets to remove one yard of soil. Each bucket weighs about 55 lb. That's many thousands of pounds. And then the intense labor to dig the trenches, haul nearly 3 yards of 3/4 rock down into the trenches with 3 to 4-in perforated pipe, with a very porous fabric around the pipe. This then with 2 to 3 inches of rock atop perforated pipe in trench, covered by 2 to 3 inches of rock. So, Trench, then the fabric along the surface of the soil trench, then the rock then the pipe then more rock covered flat along the grade. Once that's all done and it works correctly, it all channels into a sump pump pit and proper 15 gallon basin that's perforated and back filled with three to four inches of rock around the sump pump basin with a proper sump pump like a Zoeller.
So when this guy says $6300 to $7,000, that's untrue. Add another $5,000 if you have a contractor do the drainage system. Then add a new sump pump & basin.
And if there's any structural work needing to be done, that needs to be taken care of before anything else. That includes replacing posts, removing old insulation and so on. All told, if you have a company do all this, it'll be over $20,000. If you do it yourself with structural work, drainage system included, and then a good 12 to 15 mm Vapor Barrier partial or full encapsulation it'll run you anywhere from 4 to $6,000 but you'll need to hire a team of two guys to help you because three guys minimum needs to do this job. If you do it yourself you run out of steam, make mistakes or quit. There are rare occasions of course that one guy can do it but it's really make sense to hire a couple of guys that are General Contractors that follow your plan to the letter. Tooling up and supplies will run you at least $1,000 alone. Spend at least 6 months to 12 months planning this on paper. Have contractors come out and look at it, you'll learn a lot but never use them. You'll pick up some helpful tips from them for free. Some will give you bad advice but you learn to know what's good and what's bad advise. You'll need to Electrify your crawl space as well so you can see. Otherwise you're not going to do a very good job. That runs anywhere 300 to $1,000. The longer you research the easier to get. You can't research this in a few weeks and expect to do it next month. You'll fail. Otherwise plan out, find a couple of general contractors to charge anywhere from $30 to $50 an hour. Their labor alone will run you around $3,500. Hope this helps!
5 ⭐️ for UnderStructureRepair in Bristol. $3 per square feet of area. + 500 set up fee + $1900 top dehumidifier. They were 1/2 what the others were but proved they were superior. Low overhead. Super Professional.
Or other new alternative resources that people use to build homes now? What do people do for tiny homes?
I have a small 920 sq ft house with maybe 2-3 ft in height underneath. I was quoted $9500 for my crawl space to be cleaned out, encapsulated, sealed, dehumidifier, and lights. I live in central Arkansas
I just bought a dehumidifier on Amazon that had a five year warranty for $575 for a 1300' home. Don't buy off the installer.
Rest assured, that $575 dehumidifier is not the same quality or standard that a professional company will install. The old saying "you get what you pay for" rings true here.
@@HydroHelp911 Doesn't really matter if the warranty is just as good or better.
@@shyman9023 we hope that dehu serves you well 💪
Has anyone done your crawl space yet?
Would this work with an earth rammed house?
19k for mine, had standing water in heavy rains, no mold. 1200sqft 24" height (low working height) contactor hand dug added drainage pipe and gravel, added sump pump 60' exterior drain pipe, pier and wall encapsulation with insulation. Aldair dehumidifier with remote controller.
Hopefully this solved your issues/concerns. Based on what you are saying, it sounds like it was done correctly!
@HydroHelp911 seems to have. I had standing water, luckily plenty of airflow. They said the 1951 floor joists looked new, no mold. I got lucky. It's like a Tupperware bowl for a crawl space now, but it was expensive.
Will this help take the smell out of the house?
Smell depends on a lot of variables, however, we have had some pretty good success with eliminating smells for customers by encapsulating their crawl space.
You're a bit pricey on the D-Hue paid $1500 for April air E80.
You are comparing what you have in the dehumidifier itself to a video and price that talk about the dehumidifier, condensation pump, duct kit, riser, licensed electrician to install an outlet and the labor to install said dehumidifier. You are comparing apples to oranges my friend.
@@HydroHelp911people just don’t understand man lol
@@Seedavis397 This is a very accurate statement! 🤝
Hi there, can I apply a graphic designer. I've know how to create clicky and catchy thumbnails.
Hello, at the moment we are not looking for someone for this position. Thank you for the interest!
I was quoted 19k for an 800 sq ft house for encapsulation
Not sure what state but I'm in NJ and I was quoted the same for mold treatment encapsulation and dehumidifier installed
This seems high but without knowing the other details or seeing the scope of work, materials being used, etc. it is hard to say.
For just encapsulation only, that's outrageous, but it depends on partial or full, a dehumidifier, mold removal, mold treatment, sealing vents and all cracks and openings including the access door, removal of existing insulation, insulating rim joists, and even soda blasting to kill spores. I got a quote for a 2,000 square foot house with stand-up (mostly) crawlspace, no water issues like that for $18,000. I have no way to pay for that as a retired 75-year-old lady. Yours should be more like $5,000. Or do it yourself; it's real simple, just labor intensive.
They said it includes crawlspace door, dehumidifier, would level the flooring...
@@marissa8429 That's not much even if it includes proper installation of a vapor barrier. There's no point in doing any of that if you would still have open air vents. Also, disturbing the soil too much creates additional problems sometimes. Leave it be unless it's just slight scrapings. I'm in the south so there is a lower cost of living here than in many other places. Get lots of estimates and educate yourself so you don't get taken. There's a lot to learn and lots of folks out there happy to take more of your money than they should. Take your time; it's a ton of money, a major purchase. You could buy a car for that much money.
No. Not true. Worked for contractors my entire life who do end to end. And never have issues these people are trying to rip people off. And encapsulation of the block huh?? What do you think it's sitting on duh...
@@EvangelistRobertBlack79 end to end? Meaning one day your would be doing roofing and then next you would be doing paint? In other words, this area of construction is not what y’all specialized in? This is ALL we specialize in. We would argue that our 400+ google reviews and 5-10 customer video testimonials on our page would show that we are not here to rip anyone off. We appreciate your constructive comment…