I tried something new and I think I like it. I used a 3D pen with PLA to assemble a 3D printed body for my SCALE RC ROCK CRAWERLLELELLL1!!!!! It worked ok. Thanks.
I think spin welding would be a good option also. I used to repair kayaks that way. You have to have plastic that can be remelted. I assume PLA can be. We used a hot air "pencil". Looked like a soldering iron that shot low pressure hot air out the nozzle.
I've been using a 3d pen on RC bodies for awhile now and have had good results. I think I will try using a soldering iron like you did though to help things bond better. Thank you for the video, you make it look so easy!
It does look more smooth but in my experience it's not as strong as CA. Depends if you need something functional or aesthetic. I'd generally rather just use some primer for aesthetics and sand it.
In principle, It's a bit like joining the technique of soldiering, literally making a space for where to put the welding material, and using a "precision hot glue" gun. Thanks for the tip (literally, lol), Richard!
I'd suggest that you sand a 45 in each piece before you join them together. Save on the fumes at the very least. Same as when you are welding to pieces of heavy gauge metal together. Great tutorial.
Thanks for this informative video. I've had a small soldering iron that collected dust the past few months and used it as if it were new after seeing this video today, thanks and I've subscribed!
You are definitely on to something. I too have been doing some "welding" on 3D printed parts, on my SkeeRide 2 snowmobile. I've successfully welded structural and non-structural parts. By successful I mean they are holding up to abuse, like high speed runs and jumping. I believe it's as strong as the parent material done right... Two tips for you from my experience. Your soldering iron is too hot. It should not smoke, that changes the strength properties of the PLA. Run your iron the same temperature as your printer, so 419 F (215C) for PLA and you can take your time "welding" and you won't burn the PLA. Second tip, I use a tapered tip with a rounded end, about the shape of a dull pencil, held perpendicular to the surface, and sink it in halfway from each side. So full penetration, very important. First do some "tack weld" spots. For a broken part I'm getting perfect alignment matching the break while tack welding in various places along the break and letting them cool. Then work my way across the joint at that depth making small circular motions, using no filler material. Do both sides in short alternating stitches, giving it time to cool. Then I use a piece of filament to fill and smooth the joint like you are doing with a flat tip. I will be buying a 3D pen after watching this video for that part. Wait, that's three tips... Anyway, to make a long story short... never mind, it's too late for that... Love your videos, love your style, you are great, keep up the great work! That good? Have a Great Day!
That’s good advice! Thanks. I probably had the iron at double that heat hehe. I’ve been playing around and was just using filament sans the pen and melting it into the joints. Fun experiment.
@@turksandjerps It's a very worthwhile method, as it saves me from re-printing major components. Can be done so the "weld" is almost invisible too. So far I've not had a break at the weld joint...
Now that is very interesting. Great work man. I have never printed a body for my rig. Always feel like they are not going to be strong enough. Being able to sure does open up a lot of options though. Thanks for sharing
I like you and your are great indeed. you come up with some great teqniques and have a lot of patience. Do you think it would be worth the time to set up a small extractor fan with a duct over your working area to suck up those toxic fumes? A decent pc fan and some dryer hose ending directly over your working area would be better than nothing and quiet enough to not be annoying
Thanks. I have patience for some things but personally I am very impatient. Must use it all up on trucks. It definitely wouldn't hurt to have an extractor fan. The more safety the better. I'm doing the rest of this in the garage or outside when the weather is nicer.
I wish I knew how to print cool stuff I get too mad at the computer for not computing well with me. Anyhow your awesome n your skills is even more awesome
Paint drying videos in 25% slo-mo are the future. Just a thought. But, hey plastic welding with a 3D pen and soldering iron seems pretty cool. I'm sure that can be helpful in a variety of ways. Fabrication, for example. Be careful, though. Ventilate! Some plastic compounds release cyanide gas when melted.
Like and comment for -the algorithm- your self-esteem. 👍 Really though I should try this, I have a printed body that could benefit from this filling technique
You are so needy but I don’t care. I’m kidding. I’ve liked your greatness and subscribed to your greatness and commented on how great you are. I will not share your greatness because I’m a jealous b.
Now that's something to test out. It could potentially work for building up material for custom things like fender flares and stuff. Squirt the goop and sand it to shape.
I never worked on a custom rc body before,especially 1 that's been 3d printed. But this seems like a great way to try and work on 1. What are your thoughts on how strong it would be? In an accidental roll over or something. Oh btw,no you're not great..............you're fantastic 😁👍. Keep up the awesome work.
I've never rolled one of my 3D printed bodies but they could potentially be as strong as a regular hardbody. It just depends on their thickness and how much infill. Thanks.
I do not have a video on that. For these I usually print some kind of mount that works. I'm in the process of trying to mount a printed 72 Suburban body onto a TF2 LWB. Might have a video on that sometime if I ever have a chance to work on trucks again!
This tutorial video is great! Your great! Your presentation style is great! The 3D pen is great! Everything in life is great! 😂
My evil plan is working. Thank you, glad you enjoy my video.
An interesting idea.. As you say different methods for different shapes, but a useful approach in the tool box, thanks
Glad you liked it!
Great process! I was about to glue a printed 78 charge body together, but am going to give this a shot. 👍👍
Hope it works out for you
Been wondering about this & im glad to see its actually possible 💪
Great demonstration 👍🏻
Love the " creepy stalker/ Bob Ross " voice at the end lol 😆
I think spin welding would be a good option also. I used to repair kayaks that way. You have to have plastic that can be remelted. I assume PLA can be. We used a hot air "pencil". Looked like a soldering iron that shot low pressure hot air out the nozzle.
Interesting process, I have not heard of before.
Pro-tip: hold your soldering iron lower to the tip, you’ll be even more precise! 😂😂
I can’t see how that would be problem at all. Thanks for the tip! I’ll try today.
Cool . I'm trying to figure this 3D printing out . Anything like this helps . Thanks for sharing that info .
Glad it was of some help, lots of trial and error with 3D printing.
It's always nice to see these kinds of videos. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
We like you and yes I’m gonna give it a shot. I just start a 3-D printing and I think it’s about time I start printing bodies. Thanks for the idea.
Glad it could be of help. Have fun.
I've been using a 3d pen on RC bodies for awhile now and have had good results. I think I will try using a soldering iron like you did though to help things bond better. Thank you for the video, you make it look so easy!
This was one of the little tools I've wanted forever and never got around to it. Wish I had sooner.
It does look more smooth but in my experience it's not as strong as CA. Depends if you need something functional or aesthetic. I'd generally rather just use some primer for aesthetics and sand it.
CA is quicker that’s for sure
Kool!
Live stream watching paint dry! Very cool. I will try it.
It'll be on Wednesday evening to steal viewers from that noneducational RC themed show with those other guys.
In principle, It's a bit like joining the technique of soldiering, literally making a space for where to put the welding material, and using a "precision hot glue" gun.
Thanks for the tip (literally, lol), Richard!
Sounds about right. You're welcome, thanks for watching.
I'd suggest that you sand a 45 in each piece before you join them together. Save on the fumes at the very least. Same as when you are welding to pieces of heavy gauge metal together. Great tutorial.
I had thought about this before and may do as such. Thank you
Cool thanks for the info
No problem 👍
Very cool trick! Nice job on the video! Very informative! ❤️🤘🏼✌🏼
Thank you, glad you liked it
Thanks for this informative video. I've had a small soldering iron that collected dust the past few months and used it as if it were new after seeing this video today, thanks and I've subscribed!
Glad you found it informative and thanks for the subscribe
You are definitely on to something. I too have been doing some "welding" on 3D printed parts, on my SkeeRide 2 snowmobile. I've successfully welded structural and non-structural parts. By successful I mean they are holding up to abuse, like high speed runs and jumping. I believe it's as strong as the parent material done right...
Two tips for you from my experience. Your soldering iron is too hot. It should not smoke, that changes the strength properties of the PLA. Run your iron the same temperature as your printer, so 419 F (215C) for PLA and you can take your time "welding" and you won't burn the PLA.
Second tip, I use a tapered tip with a rounded end, about the shape of a dull pencil, held perpendicular to the surface, and sink it in halfway from each side. So full penetration, very important. First do some "tack weld" spots. For a broken part I'm getting perfect alignment matching the break while tack welding in various places along the break and letting them cool. Then work my way across the joint at that depth making small circular motions, using no filler material. Do both sides in short alternating stitches, giving it time to cool.
Then I use a piece of filament to fill and smooth the joint like you are doing with a flat tip. I will be buying a 3D pen after watching this video for that part. Wait, that's three tips...
Anyway, to make a long story short... never mind, it's too late for that...
Love your videos, love your style, you are great, keep up the great work!
That good? Have a Great Day!
That’s good advice! Thanks. I probably had the iron at double that heat hehe. I’ve been playing around and was just using filament sans the pen and melting it into the joints. Fun experiment.
@@turksandjerps It's a very worthwhile method, as it saves me from re-printing major components. Can be done so the "weld" is almost invisible too. So far I've not had a break at the weld joint...
Awesome, thanks so much for sharing!
Thanks for watching
I like these build technique videos!!
I like that you like it
You're very great. I'm telling you how great you are
Thank you for telling me how great I am. I'm starting to believe it.
@@turksandjerps That's great, just like you.
Awesome tip. Thanks!
You're welcome, thanks for watching
This is truly awesome. Thank you
Glad you liked it!
You are so great
I know.
You’re great!
Aww thanks
your soooooo great 😂😂😂 good tip thanks, had a good giggle at the end 👊🏼🤣🤙🏼💨💨
How kind of you, thanks
Now that is very interesting. Great work man. I have never printed a body for my rig. Always feel like they are not going to be strong enough. Being able to sure does open up a lot of options though. Thanks for sharing
I guess it depends on how you drive or treat your truck. I don't roll mine a lot so 3D printed is fine for me.
@@turksandjerps Yeah I get it. I like keeping mine nice and slow as well. great work. :)
I shared this with people on the livestream tonight, brilliant idea Mr. Man.
Nooooooooo!! Oh, I mean... thank you.
Damnit that’s a good idea. I’m definitely going to try this out.
Cool, that's why I shared it here hope it works out for you
I like you and your are great indeed. you come up with some great teqniques and have a lot of patience. Do you think it would be worth the time to set up a small extractor fan with a duct over your working area to suck up those toxic fumes? A decent pc fan and some dryer hose ending directly over your working area would be better than nothing and quiet enough to not be annoying
Thanks. I have patience for some things but personally I am very impatient. Must use it all up on trucks. It definitely wouldn't hurt to have an extractor fan. The more safety the better. I'm doing the rest of this in the garage or outside when the weather is nicer.
Nicely done! I may have to pick one up and give it a try! I have a few builds that might help alot on..
Go for it!
I wish I knew how to print cool stuff I get too mad at the computer for not computing well with me. Anyhow your awesome n your skills is even more awesome
Computers are challenging for me too. That's my excuse for making bad videos. Thank you.
Paint drying videos in 25% slo-mo are the future. Just a thought. But, hey plastic welding with a 3D pen and soldering iron seems pretty cool. I'm sure that can be helpful in a variety of ways. Fabrication, for example. Be careful, though. Ventilate! Some plastic compounds release cyanide gas when melted.
How many subscribers would I gain or lose if I made an 8 hour video of paint drying? Cyanide you say? Sounds delicious. Yes, be safe!
More paint drying videos please
You got it! Would an 8 hour video be long enough?
Done did good. You should try to make rivets and faux weld seams with your handy little pen printer
Stackin' dimes plastic edition
You are very great
😀
T’s&J’s > Bob Ross
That statement might upset some people.
Like and comment for -the algorithm- your self-esteem. 👍 Really though I should try this, I have a printed body that could benefit from this filling technique
I don't know what that algorithm thing is but it doesn't like me. Try it out and report back. Thanks for watching.
Can "Sanding" be considered as a therapy? Anyway you shared a good idea with this 3D pen it seems :) . Thanks!
I'd consider it a form of therapy. Especially on a warm summer day, sitting under a shade tree making a dust.
You are so needy but I don’t care. I’m kidding. I’ve liked your greatness and subscribed to your greatness and commented on how great you are. I will not share your greatness because I’m a jealous b.
Hahaha, thanks for accepting my greatness into your life. It's ok you didn't share, this time...
Absolutely fantastic! I wonder if this would work just as well using abs filament for styrene bodies?
Now that's something to test out. It could potentially work for building up material for custom things like fender flares and stuff. Squirt the goop and sand it to shape.
@@turksandjerps exactly! Could be a game changer.
I never worked on a custom rc body before,especially 1 that's been 3d printed. But this seems like a great way to try and work on 1. What are your thoughts on how strong it would be? In an accidental roll over or something. Oh btw,no you're not great..............you're fantastic 😁👍. Keep up the awesome work.
I've never rolled one of my 3D printed bodies but they could potentially be as strong as a regular hardbody. It just depends on their thickness and how much infill. Thanks.
Great vid. Do you have a video on how to mount these 3d printed bodies onto the chassis? If not, what do you use?
I do not have a video on that. For these I usually print some kind of mount that works. I'm in the process of trying to mount a printed 72 Suburban body onto a TF2 LWB. Might have a video on that sometime if I ever have a chance to work on trucks again!
@@turksandjerps be interested to see it. I'm trying to figure out how to mount a Ford E350 I printed out.
Hi :)
What kind of preparations did you do on the body after print, before filming this video? It seems super smooth, almost like resin!
After printing I sand it thoroughly then spray with primer
Comment you’re great!!
Comment thank you
Is the body for display only? If not, why PLA? Won’t that just crack with the slightest impact when running the RC?
No, it’s for use. Holds up fine for how I drive. PLA because user friendly printing.
You are okay. Your videos are also okay.
You lie! I’m awful.
Do you get scale points for mig welding at scale? lol.
Half a point
What the thickness of the body panels?
About 3-4mm
What brand and model of soldering iron are you using? I am in the market as my 30year old unit has passed on.
YIHUA-936
@@turksandjerps 🙂thanks and keep up the great content. Love the videos of the 'Folly.
The end was kinda creepy. Lol
Thanks for watching the whole video
This is a comment to tell you how great you are. Byebye.
My plan worked! Thank you
welp now you've cost me money.
Only a little
buying a 3d pen right now. ive been using the wrong glue and jb weld. I spent 2 months and dropped my body and watched it shatter into pieces
That's heartbreaking!
dont get too full of your self...lol great way looks easier then ca..
I won't, I'm my least favorite person.
Can you 3d me a 1999 4 door Tahoe
No sorry, I don't print for hire
You’re great. 😑
😢
@@turksandjerpsI just do what I’m told 🤘🏻
You are not great 😂😂😢😮 sir that is absurd 😮your amazing .. sry jk . Like your videos and commentary
Thanks 😅