I don't make instruments or play them, however your videos have taught me a lot about wood, how to use varnish, and how to use various adhesives. As a furniture maker it's interesting to see how other people use the material and appreciate the details of a craft such as violinmaking. Thank you for sharing what you do. :)
Charalampos, your comment here makes me very happy. Yesterdays Q&A has been also very inspiring. Great to have your feedback. all the best and thanks for being one of my patrons on Patreon. see you soon again Edgar
I am working in a shop learning how to build violas da gamba. Some of the techniques are a little bit different, but your advice and expertise is very helpful as I develop new skills. Thank you!
You got it! Starts at 3€ 9€ and with 25 Euro you are one of my VIP loved ones. all the best and thanks for supporting. already a comment is a way off help and is free as subscribing to my channel. Thanks Edgar
I had the triangle like slot on my C cello string and I could not control the sound on high positions x'd I saw that tiny "light" under my string so I went to sand it a little to make it round and had more contact on all the string, sound became more manageable instantly
Curious to know if you think an extra deep groove could contribute to strings wearing out more quickly. I recently had a pair of Larsen Magnacore Ariosos go false in about a month (my A and D) and wondering if maybe the bridge is to blame. Cheers
@Edgar Russ Distinguished Violinmaker, about the slots, i heard from another master that its best to use a steel ruler or so instead of a file to create the slot. the idea is that if you use a file to shave off the wood on top of the bridge, the string would still go in deeper into the bridge, especially for the E string. by using a ruler or a similar device, we are pressing the top of the slot and compacting it, there by giving strength to the slot. also, is it better to use a parchment for E string or using the plastic sheath that comes on a E string? for sound quality.
Making the slots with a file or squeezing it with a metal rules is more or less the same since we do not have to go that deep inside. But I doubt that you can squeeze or push that much maple wood on a cello or doublebass bridge. The parchment is a good way to protect the bridge of being damaged too much and to stop the process of being constant cut deeper and deeper. But the plastic tube has another purpose and is NOT meant to be used as a parchment. It allows you to hear the empty string without whistle.
So HOW do you make the notches? Hat tool? How is it used? Does one need multiple tools because the strings have different outside diameters? What is/re the tool called? Where are they available? Etc.?
Hello Edgar, Just discovered your channel and am so impressed by your clear and detailed videos. I have a question I hope you can answer. How can I repair/fill a slot that is cut too deep, the G string is inside the slot? This is on a double bass bridge. Thanks so much.
I am coming to this 2 years later and I have a similar question, but on cello. He mentioned filling with a little bit of wood in Ep. 41, but there wasn't a demonstration. Should we get a reply to this, I would be even more grateful than I am already for the informative videos he has produced.
Dear Edgar, i play my cello in a full tropical country. I have problems with finding the best rosin for tropics. Can you advise me to find the best rosin for hot an humid climate. At this moment i use the Melos light but i am not satisfied with. Thank you, Ronny.
There are many double basses in my shop. And I have made at least 20 maybe even 30. I think you have to watch more carefully all my videos. all the best Edgar
Thanks Edgar. How about the width of the bridge at the top. Is there an ideal measurement that is stable but thin enough. How thick should it be on a violin or on a cello?
I recently went with about 2 - 2.5 mm on a cello like build I've recently finished. I got that measurement from a few different places. so far seems to be working well.
Violin 1,2 to 1,4mm Cello 2,4mm If you subscribe too my Patreon Channel you have all measurements and lots of more precise information and you support me and make me happy Thanks Edgar
I can now attempt to answer my own question. I sanded down the curved top of the bridge by around 4cm and then used folded/sharpened sandpaper to cut new slots in the (now wider) curved top. It appears to have worked rather well.
I don't make instruments or play them, however your videos have taught me a lot about wood, how to use varnish, and how to use various adhesives. As a furniture maker it's interesting to see how other people use the material and appreciate the details of a craft such as violinmaking. Thank you for sharing what you do.
:)
Thank you for your kind comment.
all the best
Edgar
I do not play strings or build instruments but I have always been fascinated by the craftsmanship and history of Cremona. Thank you for your videos
Expertly explained thank you very much!
This could not be more precise and informative! I am getting so many information from your videos here and on patreon! Thank you!
Charalampos, your comment here makes me very happy.
Yesterdays Q&A has been also very inspiring.
Great to have your feedback.
all the best and thanks for being one of my patrons on Patreon.
see you soon again
Edgar
I am working in a shop learning how to build violas da gamba. Some of the techniques are a little bit different, but your advice and expertise is very helpful as I develop new skills. Thank you!
Very informative. Thank you Edgar. Please make a vedio or a vedios on strings buzzing.
Done and published today!
Thank for your input Hasan
see you
and thanks for your support here
Edgar
Well done! Always learn something from you!
Great to know that.
ER
Fantastic descriptive and reasoning detailed description!!!
Thank you for this great explanation Mr Russ.
You are welcome.
Happy to know it is helpful to others.
In case you want some more specific answers subscribe to my Patreon Channel.
enjoy
Edgar
Great content, as always. And certainly a good reason and motivation to become a Patreon!
You got it!
Starts at 3€
9€
and
with 25 Euro you are one of my VIP loved ones.
all the best and thanks for supporting.
already a comment is a way off help and is free as subscribing to my channel.
Thanks
Edgar
Very helpful, Thank you!
You are welcome
Edgar
I find that precisely gauged guitar nut files work well to notch a violin bridge
I had the triangle like slot on my C cello string and I could not control the sound on high positions x'd I saw that tiny "light" under my string so I went to sand it a little to make it round and had more contact on all the string, sound became more manageable instantly
How did you know i was thinking of this today on my instrument?
....parallel universe surely
Thanks!!!
Magic!
great to hear I was in time.
all the best from Cremona
Edgar
Curious to know if you think an extra deep groove could contribute to strings wearing out more quickly. I recently had a pair of Larsen Magnacore Ariosos go false in about a month (my A and D) and wondering if maybe the bridge is to blame. Cheers
@Edgar Russ Distinguished Violinmaker, about the slots, i heard from another master that its best to use a steel ruler or so instead of a file to create the slot. the idea is that if you use a file to shave off the wood on top of the bridge, the string would still go in deeper into the bridge, especially for the E string. by using a ruler or a similar device, we are pressing the top of the slot and compacting it, there by giving strength to the slot.
also, is it better to use a parchment for E string or using the plastic sheath that comes on a E string? for sound quality.
Making the slots with a file or squeezing it with a metal rules is more or less the same since we do not have to go that deep inside. But I doubt that you can squeeze or push that much maple wood on a cello or doublebass bridge.
The parchment is a good way to protect the bridge of being damaged too much and to stop the process of being constant cut deeper and deeper.
But the plastic tube has another purpose and is NOT meant to be used as a parchment.
It allows you to hear the empty string without whistle.
So HOW do you make the notches? Hat tool? How is it used? Does one need multiple tools because the strings have different outside diameters? What is/re the tool called? Where are they available? Etc.?
great!
Thanks
ER
Any practical tips on how to lower the action on a violin by 3 to 4mm?
Hello Edgar, Just discovered your channel and am so impressed by your clear and detailed videos.
I have a question I hope you can answer. How can I repair/fill a slot that is cut too deep, the G string is inside the slot? This is on a double bass bridge.
Thanks so much.
I am coming to this 2 years later and I have a similar question, but on cello. He mentioned filling with a little bit of wood in Ep. 41, but there wasn't a demonstration. Should we get a reply to this, I would be even more grateful than I am already for the informative videos he has produced.
i like this secret of yours...how low can you go with strings on violin ???
CAN YOU PLEASE ILLUSTRATE HOW I CAN ADJUST MY STAGG BLACKIE SILENT BASS BRIDGE FOR BOWING ? I WOULD LIKE TO EXTEND THE INSTRUMENT'S MUSICAL ABILITIES.
Dear Edgar, i play my cello in a full tropical country. I have problems with finding the best rosin for tropics. Can you advise me to find the best rosin for hot an humid climate. At this moment i use the Melos light but i am not satisfied with. Thank you, Ronny.
Is the cut on the bridge straight and perpendicular to the bridge? Or angled to mimic the string approach angle? Or rounded ?
Hello hello Edgar!
Do you also build double bases? As I never saw one in your workshop: did you build one in your life?
There are many double basses in my shop.
And I have made at least 20 maybe even 30.
I think you have to watch more carefully all my videos.
all the best
Edgar
Thanks Edgar. How about the width of the bridge at the top. Is there an ideal measurement that is stable but thin enough. How thick should it be on a violin or on a cello?
I recently went with about 2 - 2.5 mm on a cello like build I've recently finished. I got that measurement from a few different places. so far seems to be working well.
@@Ronys2YT Thanks for your answer. In that case I will take a little more wood off.
Violin 1,2 to 1,4mm
Cello 2,4mm
If you subscribe too my Patreon Channel you have all measurements and lots of more precise information
and you support me and make me happy
Thanks
Edgar
@@Ronys2YT on a cello I recommend 2,4mm nothing more and nothing less.
@@EdgarRuss thank you very much Edgar
👍
Thanks
ER
I can now attempt to answer my own question. I sanded down the curved top of the bridge by around 4cm and then used folded/sharpened sandpaper to cut new slots in the (now wider) curved top.
It appears to have worked rather well.