Thank you for your video. One note; there is a lot of nonsense being told on the internet about spring preloading. The preload is only to ensure that the spring does not come loose from its seat during suspension drop. Other than that, it doesn't do anything at all! Almost all car coilovers have linear springs. A few mm more or less preload is not important. As soon as the weight of the car comes on the coilovers, the preload is cancelled out by the weight of the car. Just make sure there is enough tension on the spring to keep it in place, 4 to 10 mm preload (stiff spring/soft spring), and you are ok. More preload will not help you prevent hitting your bumpstops when going very low. Have fun driving your car!
Do it!!! They’re definitely worth it! The car feels much more compliant for day to day driving, but when I go to the canyons, it’s a whole different animal. Before the back felt really twitchy. Now with them on, it feels like I have to really push the car to its limits for it to kick out. And if I’m kicking it out at those limits, I probably shouldn’t be even driving that aggressive on public roads. Car feels planted and a lot less body roll now as well. If you do get them let me know what you think!
Lowering cups are not needed. However, if you plan on going really low in the rears then I will advise you to get lowering cups. This is due to the fact that you will need to add more preload to the rears if you want to go lower than out of the box recommended height, which will likely cause you to hit the bump stop a lot. This is really bad for your suspension as well as your chassis especially during a hard turn. The lowering cups will allow you to maintain the recommended rear preload from Ohlins recommendation or SakeBomb's while still being able to make it sit flush if not even tucked. A bump steer kit will help with any steering movement when hitting bumps. It's not necessary needed, but nice to have. I think the big thing that people are concern of (at least for AP1 owners) is that the rears can be a bit more twitchy compared to the AP2, which is more refined and toned down because of the different rear subframe. Any slight movement during a hard turn when the suspension is osculating can cause you to snap oversteer when pushing the car hard during corners. However, with the Ohlins on, my car feels really planted. I've taken hard turns during spirited driving and have felt completely fine with no rear twitching. I don't ever recommend pushing your car to it's limits on public roads or more than you level of experience can handle, because this can be really dangerous. Save that for the track or auto cross. So it really boils down to what you want out of your suspension. I opted for lower cups and didn't get the bump steer kit and i'm totally happy with my setup. Hope this helps.
@@nate10n Will it benefit from the Rear cups if I plan on maintain OEM or whatever Max height the Ohlins provide. I do not wish to lower it. What is the recommended rear preload to prevent bumpstop issues. I read stories about it , how it totally messed up the handling.
@@LoveLikeaHurricane If you don't plan on going super low and maintaining the recommeded height Ohlin provides, then there's no need for the rear cups. The rear cups allows you to lower the rear a bit more while keeping the recommended preload of the Ohlins. If I recall correctly, if you don't go with the rear cups, your rear won't be much of a difference than what is currently stock now. While this might work for you, I wanted something closer a long the lines of 1-1.5 finget gap between my fenders. I'm currently using Sake Bomb's recommeded preload which is 18mm in front and 2mm in the rears. I haven't expeirence any bumbstop issue and my car handles like champ on rails.
The kit will come with everything you need to swap out the stock struts. Just make sure you have the tools mentioned in the video and torque all the bolts to spec. Be sure to level out the suspension before torquing to prevent flexing and possibly tearing your rubber bushings. Let me know if you have any other questions or need clarifications on a specific step. I’m more than happy to help out!
@@TingTingMelody No worries! Always good to have peace of mind when it comes to car stuff. If you do purchase and install it, let me know how you like it!
I got it from SakeBomb Garage. They're located in Fremont, CA so it's local to me. If you're located in the Bay Area, I suggest stopping by. They'll give you a discount for picking it up as well. They're also very knowledgeable when it comes to what sort of configuration you want out of the Ohlins and can do custom valving as well.
I don't have a picture on hand but I mounted it something like this: cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2ki.com-vbulletin/2000x2000/1_049b12d370029aea7713920a2891463525c85749.jpg
Thank you for your video.
One note; there is a lot of nonsense being told on the internet about spring preloading. The preload is only to ensure that the spring does not come loose from its seat during suspension drop. Other than that, it doesn't do anything at all!
Almost all car coilovers have linear springs. A few mm more or less preload is not important. As soon as the weight of the car comes on the coilovers, the preload is cancelled out by the weight of the car. Just make sure there is enough tension on the spring to keep it in place, 4 to 10 mm preload (stiff spring/soft spring), and you are ok.
More preload will not help you prevent hitting your bumpstops when going very low.
Have fun driving your car!
Looks good. I’m going to get these soon hopefully 🤞🏼 .
Do it!!! They’re definitely worth it! The car feels much more compliant for day to day driving, but when I go to the canyons, it’s a whole different animal. Before the back felt really twitchy. Now with them on, it feels like I have to really push the car to its limits for it to kick out. And if I’m kicking it out at those limits, I probably shouldn’t be even driving that aggressive on public roads. Car feels planted and a lot less body roll now as well. If you do get them let me know what you think!
You think the lowering cups are needed? They also recommended id buy a bump steer kit... its getting overwhelming tbh
Lowering cups are not needed. However, if you plan on going really low in the rears then I will advise you to get lowering cups. This is due to the fact that you will need to add more preload to the rears if you want to go lower than out of the box recommended height, which will likely cause you to hit the bump stop a lot. This is really bad for your suspension as well as your chassis especially during a hard turn. The lowering cups will allow you to maintain the recommended rear preload from Ohlins recommendation or SakeBomb's while still being able to make it sit flush if not even tucked.
A bump steer kit will help with any steering movement when hitting bumps. It's not necessary needed, but nice to have. I think the big thing that people are concern of (at least for AP1 owners) is that the rears can be a bit more twitchy compared to the AP2, which is more refined and toned down because of the different rear subframe. Any slight movement during a hard turn when the suspension is osculating can cause you to snap oversteer when pushing the car hard during corners. However, with the Ohlins on, my car feels really planted. I've taken hard turns during spirited driving and have felt completely fine with no rear twitching. I don't ever recommend pushing your car to it's limits on public roads or more than you level of experience can handle, because this can be really dangerous. Save that for the track or auto cross.
So it really boils down to what you want out of your suspension. I opted for lower cups and didn't get the bump steer kit and i'm totally happy with my setup. Hope this helps.
@@nate10n Will it benefit from the Rear cups if I plan on maintain OEM or whatever Max height the Ohlins provide. I do not wish to lower it. What is the recommended rear preload to prevent bumpstop issues. I read stories about it , how it totally messed up the handling.
@@LoveLikeaHurricane If you don't plan on going super low and maintaining the recommeded height Ohlin provides, then there's no need for the rear cups. The rear cups allows you to lower the rear a bit more while keeping the recommended preload of the Ohlins. If I recall correctly, if you don't go with the rear cups, your rear won't be much of a difference than what is currently stock now. While this might work for you, I wanted something closer a long the lines of 1-1.5 finget gap between my fenders. I'm currently using Sake Bomb's recommeded preload which is 18mm in front and 2mm in the rears. I haven't expeirence any bumbstop issue and my car handles like champ on rails.
Good video and ty! I want to do the same thing, does the kit give u everything you need to replace the stock struts or do I need to order other parts?
The kit will come with everything you need to swap out the stock struts. Just make sure you have the tools mentioned in the video and torque all the bolts to spec. Be sure to level out the suspension before torquing to prevent flexing and possibly tearing your rubber bushings. Let me know if you have any other questions or need clarifications on a specific step. I’m more than happy to help out!
@@nate10n Thank you! I might just buy it and have it professional install since I don't want to mess anything up. Your video is excellent though!
@@TingTingMelody No worries! Always good to have peace of mind when it comes to car stuff. If you do purchase and install it, let me know how you like it!
Great video. Where did you get the Ohlins from?
I got it from SakeBomb Garage. They're located in Fremont, CA so it's local to me. If you're located in the Bay Area, I suggest stopping by. They'll give you a discount for picking it up as well. They're also very knowledgeable when it comes to what sort of configuration you want out of the Ohlins and can do custom valving as well.
Thanks. Do you have pics of how you mounted the remote adjusters?@@nate10n
I don't have a picture on hand but I mounted it something like this: cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2ki.com-vbulletin/2000x2000/1_049b12d370029aea7713920a2891463525c85749.jpg