In regards to the oil seals are the spring sides pointing up and down in opposite directions , in all Honda units. Mine is a BF90A unit and the spring sides are both facing down. I would like very much for your feedback
Many thanks, this was of great help! Indeed tinest roller pin is useless below seal holder. It broke right away by very light slide hammer hit. I should do lottery this week as I got pieces out from prop shaft casing without major effort. I placed whole gear casing upside down, it was convenient set-up to use slide hammer for precise hit (weigth 3 kg). However no success with holder (I was afraid to break selector pin or rod around pin too). Changed the seal by hack way...
Thank you for producing these videos, the way you explain stuff is so easy to understand , much appreciated, I have learned more from your video Channel regarding my boat and motor than any other channel I have looked at, is it possible for you to do a video on what to do with your motor when you return from a day out on the water to keep it in good nick, I obviously wash and flush my motor out then give it a light spray with inox
Hi mate, glad the videos are helping you. I'll have a think about an end-of-trip maintenance video. There probably isn't much more to it beyond what you describe but I'll have a think. Switching off or disconnecting the battery is another thing along with protecting everything as much as you can from UV, maybe also removing the bung to drain the bilge.
You my friend are an excellent teacher and I thank you!!! You have taught me so much and I appreciate your videos!!!👍👍 by the way I have an evinrude 70 hp about an 1985 and runs great right now
Very helpful! Two quick questions: 1. Do I need to put a new spring/roll pin back in the gear selector rod? I can’t figure out why it’s needed and I’m concerned about it breaking off into my gear box. 2. How do you flush a gear box? I may have lost a small bit of the old spring pin. Thanks mate!
Hi Bill, I broke it by very light slide hammer hit. It may work when all parts are new, but not with corroded aluminium seal holder. So no point to renew in my opinion. I was lucky to get pieces out from prop shaft casing with tiny magnet. Selector pin works in same way, but even that might be too weak.
Excellent videos thank you - i have a very old Honda BF15A - probably around 15 years plus old. I live in the backwoods of Panama so no Honda dealers in the country and all maintenance i have to do myself as well as buying parts on Amazon. On the last lower unit oil change there was water in the oil - milky and it seperated on a glass jar over about 10 days. There is no apparent oil leakage from the drive shaft connected to the propellor. As a professional which seals would you recomend i change and would you by any luck have a video of the process to change the suggested seals....thanks again for the great videos....you are my workshop manual thanks.
your videos are great I jus need to find one on all the seals for a 2stroke Yamaha 60....I changed the lower unit oil and there was water...go figure...so I want to change all the seals
Thanks Brad. If you do a pressure test with the foot off you will be able to see / hear which seal is leaking. I've got a separate video on prop shaft seals - most brands of outboards are pretty similar when it comes to changing seals.
Dangar Marine yea it sounded like it was coming from the top of the foot and was curious how many different seals there was......and once again great great info on all your videos and thanks for putting in the time and effort......
Stu, I've noticed my prop shaft seal, gear select seal and drive shaft seal can be a little salty and crusty. They aren't leaking however and I'd like to look after them. I'm wondering if there's some merit in cleaning them up and applying some kind of grease on them to keep them supple, stop the spring in the seal rusting and provide a barrier to salt water in general. Any thoughts on this? Cheers Ben
Great vid stu. I have a yamaha f80 4stroke and after watching this vid I replace my seals but the drive shalf seal still leaking. Prop shalft is holding pressure fine. Did find some scoring on the surface of where the seal seats. Could that possibly be the problem.
I did the same thing with mine, took the propeller axle out and flushed it. The problem is not that my gear has a noise, sounding like gear mesh is not right. Allthough I have checked it all a few times now, and nothing seems wrong. Looking forward for an answer.
When installing those green water pump housing gaskets, do you need to put anything on the gasket itself? Grease (my gut feel is no) would they get glued down or anything else?
Are you referring to the prop shaft seal in the lower unit or this upper drive shaft seal? The bearing carrier that has the propshaft seal can be very hard to remove and often requires a very strong puller and a lot of heat. This upper one should come out relatively easily if all the bolts are removed.
Great video as always Stu ! One quick question, are the 2-stroke motors same as the 4-stroke when it comes to seals ? I am doing this on my evinrude 60hp 2-stroke now when we have -20 outside.
I hear significant low tone (frequency) squeal at rpms just above idle when going forward. I just got this motor. Can you suggest the source(s) of this sound?
Hi Stu I have a 1984 mercury 3,6hp. I have milky gearbox oil and when I pressure tested it oil came out the water intakes... I assume my top seal drive shaft is the problem? I only have one oil seal under the water pump... which direction should it face springs up or down? Hope this will sort out the problem?
Hey mate, do you do face-time calls? I have a BF130 with few issues. grinding when shifting from neutral to forward or reverse. Shift lever from neutral position has a 5-10 degree no move and then half way down the forward throttle that engine starts increasing RPM. PM if you interested.
@@DangarMarine thanks just mine seems more corroded than the one in your video, it's not leaking so will leave alone until it does. Great video's by the way. You are a great source of info. Just about the best on RUclips.
Not sure what the earlier models had. I find a lot of these housing leave a lot to be desired. It's almost impossible to get many of them out without destroying them.
hello, I ave a problem to honda bf 40 cv LRT, I can not disconnect the motor unit from the foot. exactly how is it related? ho tolto i bulloni da sotto, ma non capisco dove possa essere ulteriormente agganciato
Hi Gabriele, there are four bolts around the gearbox and then one more under the trim tab anode above the prop. You need to remove that anode to get to the last bolt which has a 12mm head rather than the 14mm of the other four.
Dangar Marine Replacing driveshaft and gear selector seals on a Honda BF30 I have one question, when I split the lower unit from the upper unit on a BF20 the shaft came out of the lower unit end instead of from the upper unit, is there any thing I should do and can you explain what I should do because this happened. The drive shaft is still connected to the upper unit. The shaft pulled out of the impeller housing. The motor is 2012 and its the first time the lower unit is pulled apart. I emptied the oil from the motor and turned it upside down and sprayed CRC 6-56 into the area were shaft goes into the upper unit (engine) It has been pooling there for three days now so will try and pull it out of the top unit to morrow, do you have any suggested ways of pulling on that shaft to get it out, I have tried to use vice grips on cloth and hammer the vice grip to shock it out, but that was before I used the CRC 656 and it didn't budge. Thanks in advance for your help, I have enjoyed looking at your videos, great work and easy to under stand. I am Australian but currently in Fort Lauderdale fixing my catamaran dingy Keep Smiling Regards Terry +1 954 348 9637
Hi Terry. Installing the shaft back in the gearbox should be pretty straight forward, from memory they are a push-pull wedge shape with a roll pin through the rod just under the oil seal. I'm presuming either the roll pin or the shifter wedge popped the seal carrier out rather than just the bare rod coming out. Did the gear selector work before it came apart? If so then it I can't think how it could be seized as it would need to move to work. I have one in the workshop at the moment like yours so I'll take a look when I am there. When I have pulled them out I have done pretty much what you have tried - vice grips on a side hammer.
Hi Stu, Yes the gear selector was working fine, the whole motor was fine I just needed to replace the impeller, the bottom end of shaft has a triangular bit on the end, not sure if its something else broken off. It is still stuck in the top, its been socking for a week now, I tried it three days ago (No good) going to try again today, if it dosn't come apart now I will take engine of out board and get a engineering shop to use a press to reverse press it apart. The spline at the top if seized into the engine. Thanks for your help mate
watching this one cause i've got milky gear lube and popped over to your video making the support bracket. brilliant! now i've really got to learn to use the stick welder i picked up 5 yrs ago! great videos love em all so far! ruclips.net/video/2hqLERBlrwI/видео.html
This seal might be your problem, but I find the prop shaft seal to be the most common one to go because people get fishing line in behind the prop which cuts it. I really enjoyed the process of learning to weld. Check out chucke2009 if you want some vids on welding.
Made an adapter with a schrader valve and a brass nipple to connect a simple bicycle pump to the lower unit with the gear oil tubing and adapter. Pumped it up and no leaking so replaced the lube and will recheck after some real use. This vid will be a huge help when I do replace all the seals.
Stu, I have enjoyed watching a lot of your videos in the last couple of days, but I've noticed since the last video (hack for taking seals out) that you like using brake cleaner. The fumes might be very dangerous, at least that is supposed to be the case when welding... maybe you don't get close to those temps, but the fumes are still a bit alarming: ruclips.net/video/r7srRiQebq0/видео.html
Yes, I don't think brake clearer is great for you, even at low temperatures, but it definitely becomes deadly once it is converted to phosgene gas through heat.
Best marine maintenance/repair videos on RUclips!
Thanks Stu
Thanks Mike, glad you think so! :)
You have been such a huge help. It's like having an uncle in your pocket
Thanks Shawn, glad to hear the videos have been helping you. :)
In regards to the oil seals are the spring sides pointing up and down in opposite directions , in all Honda units. Mine is a BF90A unit and the spring sides are both facing down. I would like very much for your feedback
Fantastic information and presentation thank u from Seattle Wa USA
Glad it was helpful!
Many thanks, this was of great help! Indeed tinest roller pin is useless below seal holder. It broke right away by very light slide hammer hit. I should do lottery this week as I got pieces out from prop shaft casing without major effort. I placed whole gear casing upside down, it was convenient set-up to use slide hammer for precise hit (weigth 3 kg). However no success with holder (I was afraid to break selector pin or rod around pin too). Changed the seal by hack way...
Great to hear!
Thanks a lot. You helped me solve my Honda 30 murky oil problem. Very practical and excellent teaching. Big thanks
I hang out to have a beer and see the new videos every Friday.Cheers Stu
Thanks Matt, glad you are enjoying them - and a refreshing ale. ;)
Thank you for producing these videos, the way you explain stuff is so easy to understand , much appreciated, I have learned more from your video Channel regarding my boat and motor than any other channel I have looked at, is it possible for you to do a video on what to do with your motor when you return from a day out on the water to keep it in good nick, I obviously wash and flush my motor out then give it a light spray with inox
Hi mate, glad the videos are helping you. I'll have a think about an end-of-trip maintenance video. There probably isn't much more to it beyond what you describe but I'll have a think. Switching off or disconnecting the battery is another thing along with protecting everything as much as you can from UV, maybe also removing the bung to drain the bilge.
Awesome video Stu. Lots of good tips in this one.
Thanks mate. It look me a while to get around to filming these top seals but I hope it helps if you ever need to do this job.
You my friend are an excellent teacher and I thank you!!! You have taught me so much and I appreciate your videos!!!👍👍 by the way I have an evinrude 70 hp about an 1985 and runs great right now
Thanks mate, glad to hear you've got your Evinrude running sweetly!
I like your video's there very helpful somtimes
I own a bf30 and a bf75honda and doing my own maintenance so keep it up
Thanks Marco.
Great video, thanks👍 just did the same on my Bf30 with your guidance.
Happy to help. 😊
Any idea how the ball bearing and small shaft on the prop shaft go in.
The orientation ie ball first then rounded shaft. On the bf30d
Very helpful! Two quick questions: 1. Do I need to put a new spring/roll pin back in the gear selector rod? I can’t figure out why it’s needed and I’m concerned about it breaking off into my gear box. 2. How do you flush a gear box? I may have lost a small bit of the old spring pin. Thanks mate!
Hi Bill, I broke it by very light slide hammer hit. It may work when all parts are new, but not with corroded aluminium seal holder. So no point to renew in my opinion. I was lucky to get pieces out from prop shaft casing with tiny magnet. Selector pin works in same way, but even that might be too weak.
Nice work Stu!
Thanks Will, you must have done plenty of these!
I haven't really resealed any Honda lower units but I do reseal a few Evinrude and Mercury lower units.
Great job explaining everything
Excellent videos thank you - i have a very old Honda BF15A - probably around 15 years plus old. I live in the backwoods of Panama so no Honda dealers in the country and all maintenance i have to do myself as well as buying parts on Amazon. On the last lower unit oil change there was water in the oil - milky and it seperated on a glass jar over about 10 days. There is no apparent oil leakage from the drive shaft connected to the propellor. As a professional which seals would you recomend i change and would you by any luck have a video of the process to change the suggested seals....thanks again for the great videos....you are my workshop manual thanks.
That was one salty old lower unit thank you for the info
Excellent video.
Thanks mate!
your videos are great I jus need to find one on all the seals for a 2stroke Yamaha 60....I changed the lower unit oil and there was water...go figure...so I want to change all the seals
Thanks Brad. If you do a pressure test with the foot off you will be able to see / hear which seal is leaking. I've got a separate video on prop shaft seals - most brands of outboards are pretty similar when it comes to changing seals.
Dangar Marine yea it sounded like it was coming from the top of the foot and was curious how many different seals there was......and once again great great info on all your videos and thanks for putting in the time and effort......
Thank you very very much, i didn't knok how to take that of...😮😮😮
Stu, I've noticed my prop shaft seal, gear select seal and drive shaft seal can be a little salty and crusty. They aren't leaking however and I'd like to look after them. I'm wondering if there's some merit in cleaning them up and applying some kind of grease on them to keep them supple, stop the spring in the seal rusting and provide a barrier to salt water in general. Any thoughts on this?
Cheers
Ben
Great vid stu. I have a yamaha f80 4stroke and after watching this vid I replace my seals but the drive shalf seal still leaking. Prop shalft is holding pressure fine. Did find some scoring on the surface of where the seal seats. Could that possibly be the problem.
I did the same thing with mine, took the propeller axle out and flushed it. The problem is not that my gear has a noise, sounding like gear mesh is not right. Allthough I have checked it all a few times now, and nothing seems wrong.
Looking forward for an answer.
When installing those green water pump housing gaskets, do you need to put anything on the gasket itself? Grease (my gut feel is no) would they get glued down or anything else?
Thank you very much
great video!the process is the same for yamaxa 60h 2005 model?
Pretty much. The exact mechanism that holds the gear selector seal housing in will be different but the basic idea is the same.
Nicely done
Thanks Al. :)
Thank you very informative
Glad it was helpful!
great work
Thanks Dean.
Awesome Stu, where do you get your replacement parts in Australia? Thanks, mate.
I broke a bolt in the lower unit and the seal housing won’t come out
What am I missing
Great vids thanks
Honda 20 2015
Are you referring to the prop shaft seal in the lower unit or this upper drive shaft seal? The bearing carrier that has the propshaft seal can be very hard to remove and often requires a very strong puller and a lot of heat. This upper one should come out relatively easily if all the bolts are removed.
Great video as always Stu ! One quick question, are the 2-stroke motors same as the 4-stroke when it comes to seals ? I am doing this on my evinrude 60hp 2-stroke now when we have -20 outside.
Thanks Roger. Yes, exactly the same. In fact some two stroke and four stroke outboards of similar horse power share the same gearbox.
no Coopers vapour in the workshop Friday Stu ? That slide hammer would have made me thirsty...
There was definitely a Coopers or two floating around that afternoon. It was bloody hot!
looks like you're in a sauna....bench temperature definitely not appropriate for the fine brew.. crisis over
I hear significant low tone (frequency) squeal at rpms just above idle when going forward. I just got this motor. Can you suggest the source(s) of this sound?
Hi Stu I have a 1984 mercury 3,6hp. I have milky gearbox oil and when I pressure tested it oil came out the water intakes... I assume my top seal drive shaft is the problem? I only have one oil seal under the water pump... which direction should it face springs up or down? Hope this will sort out the problem?
Hi Stu could you answer my question please
Thank you different motor but now I have an idea.
1974 Chrysler 105.
Hey mate, do you do face-time calls? I have a BF130 with few issues. grinding when shifting from neutral to forward or reverse. Shift lever from neutral position has a 5-10 degree no move and then half way down the forward throttle that engine starts increasing RPM. PM if you interested.
Unfortunately not. I've never worked on BF130, only the smaller Hondas that either I or friends have owned.
Thank you 👌
You're welcome. :)
Is it possible to change the shifter seal without taking the shifter shaft out?
Hello dangarstu. How hard is it to remove the extension to convert my 04 bf15 sailboat outboard to a regular longshaft? What parts are required?
Is there a way to send this honda 15 hp outboard water pump housing to Brazil by mail?
can the gearbox shaft seal be changed a hack way ?? or do you have to pull the alloy housing out ?
You might find it is a little bit too deep down to get to, and these housing are generally much easier to remove than the prop shaft barrier carrier.
@@DangarMarine thanks just mine seems more corroded than the one in your video, it's not leaking so will leave alone until it does. Great video's by the way. You are a great source of info. Just about the best on RUclips.
thanks
How did you connect the vise grip on the slide hammer?
It was an adapter that came in the slide hammer kit.
Hi Stu, that oil seal housing doesn’t seem a good change by honda...did the early models have a better design ?
cheers Brett
Not sure what the earlier models had. I find a lot of these housing leave a lot to be desired. It's almost impossible to get many of them out without destroying them.
Ciao, come togli l'interno del cuscinetto asse trasmissione?
Really seems like there should be a better design to that gear selector housing.
Some way to put a puller directly on the housing would certainly be nice.
hello, I ave a problem to honda bf 40 cv LRT, I can not disconnect the motor unit from the foot. exactly how is it related?
ho tolto i bulloni da sotto, ma non capisco dove possa essere ulteriormente agganciato
Hi Gabriele, there are four bolts around the gearbox and then one more under the trim tab anode above the prop. You need to remove that anode to get to the last bolt which has a 12mm head rather than the 14mm of the other four.
I'm sorry I was wrong, but I have to remove the enginer block and the oil pan..tanks
Hi Stu, can you please answer my last question below Thanks mate
Hey mate, doesn't look like RUclips shows comments in order. What was your question?
Dangar Marine
Replacing driveshaft and gear selector seals on a Honda BF30
I have one question, when I split the lower unit from the upper unit on a BF20 the shaft came out of the lower unit end instead of from the upper unit, is there any thing I should do and can you explain what I should do because this happened.
The drive shaft is still connected to the upper unit. The shaft pulled out of the impeller housing.
The motor is 2012 and its the first time the lower unit is pulled apart.
I emptied the oil from the motor and turned it upside down and sprayed CRC 6-56 into the area were shaft goes into the upper unit (engine) It has been pooling there for three days now so will try and pull it out of the top unit to morrow, do you have any suggested ways of pulling on that shaft to get it out, I have tried to use vice grips on cloth and hammer the vice grip to shock it out, but that was before I used the CRC 656 and it didn't budge.
Thanks in advance for your help, I have enjoyed looking at your videos, great work and easy to under stand.
I am Australian but currently in Fort Lauderdale fixing my catamaran dingy
Keep Smiling
Regards
Terry
+1 954 348 9637
Hi Terry. Installing the shaft back in the gearbox should be pretty straight forward, from memory they are a push-pull wedge shape with a roll pin through the rod just under the oil seal. I'm presuming either the roll pin or the shifter wedge popped the seal carrier out rather than just the bare rod coming out. Did the gear selector work before it came apart? If so then it I can't think how it could be seized as it would need to move to work. I have one in the workshop at the moment like yours so I'll take a look when I am there. When I have pulled them out I have done pretty much what you have tried - vice grips on a side hammer.
Hi Stu, Yes the gear selector was working fine, the whole motor was fine I just needed to replace the impeller, the bottom end of shaft has a triangular bit on the end, not sure if its something else broken off. It is still stuck in the top, its been socking for a week now, I tried it three days ago (No good) going to try again today, if it dosn't come apart now I will take engine of out board and get a engineering shop to use a press to reverse press it apart.
The spline at the top if seized into the engine. Thanks for your help mate
YAMAHA OUTBOARD 60 HP 2 TIME EXHAUST GASOLINE EXHAUST AND IGNITION CANDLE IS CLEAN. PLEASE SUBMIT A CHECKLIST FOR US TO REPAIR. THANK YOU.
Start with a carburettor clean and go from there.
watching this one cause i've got milky gear lube and popped over to your video making the support bracket. brilliant! now i've really got to learn to use the stick welder i picked up 5 yrs ago! great videos love em all so far! ruclips.net/video/2hqLERBlrwI/видео.html
This seal might be your problem, but I find the prop shaft seal to be the most common one to go because people get fishing line in behind the prop which cuts it. I really enjoyed the process of learning to weld. Check out chucke2009 if you want some vids on welding.
Made an adapter with a schrader valve and a brass nipple to connect a simple bicycle pump to the lower unit with the gear oil tubing and adapter. Pumped it up and no leaking so replaced the lube and will recheck after some real use. This vid will be a huge help when I do replace all the seals.
Stu, I have enjoyed watching a lot of your videos in the last couple of days, but I've noticed since the last video (hack for taking seals out) that you like using brake cleaner. The fumes might be very dangerous, at least that is supposed to be the case when welding... maybe you don't get close to those temps, but the fumes are still a bit alarming:
ruclips.net/video/r7srRiQebq0/видео.html
Yes, I don't think brake clearer is great for you, even at low temperatures, but it definitely becomes deadly once it is converted to phosgene gas through heat.
I hesitated to give a heads up because of your experience, but just in case. Thanks for the videos, it's been great to learn about outboard 2 strokes.
Ypu are replacing the VERTICAL SHAFT -- Honda does not have a "drive shaft."