Nice video,and crystal clear explanation of the model A ignition system. Your video take me to the time i was studying mechanics when i was young. Now i have a little garage here in my city. We are the proud owners of a model A 28 and one time, i had this culprit with the bad actor black wire as you say😁 ,was touching the plate as you say .. Nice work Jack and nice explanation😎..keep going like this. Your channel its a reference in model A repairs, I am a subscriber of your channel since the beginning.😎 Greetings from Palma de mallorca Balearics islands,SPAIN 😁
Early in the video, I said that the power comes into the coil on the passenger side of the coil. That’s not right, it comes in on the driver’s side. Sorry about that.
Thanks, very insightful video. Just to be clear… the ignition coil always has power on both side terminals + and - even when the ignition switch is off?
Hi, I'm new to the hobby and have been putting together a 1929 closed cab Frankenstein truck.The chassis was from a 1929 something. Was running reasonably well, I then pulled the plugs and gapped them to .035. checked the pitted points, filed and set them to .020. Started, but ran extremely rough off idle. Bought NAPA points and condenser, broke the point block, got a new block, installed the points, very poor alignment even after adjusting the block... But... still starts but won't run at all off idle. Carb was rebuilt by me, seems to be getting good gas flow, no stuck float valve, float good and set correctly.. I set the timing with the tdc pin, rotor pointing to number one cap pin. Really feels like timing is off. Step on the gas and it sputters and backfires... Ideas for a rookie?
in the process of getting my model a running. the ignition coil was replaced but i dont know if its hooked up correctly. the coil has + and - markings. which wire goes where? should the positive terminal (indicated on coil body) go to the distributor or into the box right under the coil? positive ground system messes with my mind on this one.
Hey Jack , Looking for some Advice . My Pops & I just got his 30’coupe running after sitting about 15 years . The wiring is old and a bit sketchy , but absolutely everything on the car operates as should . We have an issue in which we don’t know the correct off position of the ignition, as the battery dies every time after we use it .so , We keep a 6 volt charger on it 24/7 . But , sometimes the battery doesn’t go dead ! I’m assuming it has to do with the “popping “ in and out of the key . Long story short in order to not drain the battery , does the key need to be “in “ or “ out “ when in the off position? Thanks much -Vinny
I assume your engine runs OK. The horn circuit has nothing to do with spark. Assuming you are getting power to the horn, back way off on the adjusting screw and see if it will spin. Take a safety pin and stick it through the insulation on a horn wire and see if you have 6 volts there or will it light a test light. If not, try the other wire. One should be hot. If you don't have a test light, make one or just scratch the pin to ground and see if it sparks. Don't blow your fuse. Let's go from there. jack
Jack Bahm the test light comes on when I touch each wire of the horn and it also comes on at each side of the coil. The engine was running good. I went for a drive and parked in my driveway. When I went you start it and put it in the garage it wouldn’t start.
Very helpful 👍Thank you!
Nice video,and crystal clear explanation of the model A ignition system.
Your video take me to the time i was studying mechanics when i was young.
Now i have a little garage here in my city.
We are the proud owners of a model A 28 and one time, i had this culprit with the bad actor black wire as you say😁 ,was touching the plate as you say ..
Nice work Jack and nice explanation😎..keep going like this.
Your channel its a reference in model A repairs,
I am a subscriber of your channel since the beginning.😎
Greetings from Palma de mallorca Balearics islands,SPAIN 😁
Excellent video. Thank you for this
Early in the video, I said that the power comes into the coil on the passenger side of the coil. That’s not right, it comes in on the driver’s side. Sorry about that.
Thanks Jack, that was very informitive!
Thanks, very insightful video.
Just to be clear… the ignition coil always has power on both side terminals + and - even when the ignition switch is off?
Excellent video, sir!
Jack, thanks from Brazil!
Nice and thorough, thanks Jack.
This does have even though I still don't understand it all every little bit helps Jack thanks
Hi, I'm new to the hobby and have been putting together a 1929 closed cab Frankenstein truck.The chassis was from a 1929 something. Was running reasonably well, I then pulled the plugs and gapped them to .035. checked the pitted points, filed and set them to .020. Started, but ran extremely rough off idle. Bought NAPA points and condenser, broke the point block, got a new block, installed the points, very poor alignment even after adjusting the block... But... still starts but won't run at all off idle. Carb was rebuilt by me, seems to be getting good gas flow, no stuck float valve, float good and set correctly.. I set the timing with the tdc pin, rotor pointing to number one cap pin. Really feels like timing is off. Step on the gas and it sputters and backfires... Ideas for a rookie?
Thank you very much I am now making progress
Let me know if you need help.
in the process of getting my model a running. the ignition coil was replaced but i dont know if its hooked up correctly. the coil has + and - markings. which wire goes where? should the positive terminal (indicated on coil body) go to the distributor or into the box right under the coil? positive ground system messes with my mind on this one.
Hey Jack , Looking for some Advice . My Pops & I just got his 30’coupe running after sitting about 15 years . The wiring is old and a bit sketchy , but absolutely everything on the car operates as should . We have an issue in which we don’t know the correct off position of the ignition, as the battery dies every time after we use it .so , We keep a 6 volt charger on it 24/7 . But , sometimes the battery doesn’t go dead ! I’m assuming it has to do with the “popping “ in and out of the key . Long story short in order to not drain the battery , does the key need to be “in “ or “ out “ when in the off position? Thanks much -Vinny
Out I believe
The coil has a + and - which side does the wire from the switch go to, any help would help
Hi Jack. My horn doesn’t sound when I turn the key on. I do. It have spark at the points and the fuse looks good. Where should I start?
I assume your engine runs OK. The horn circuit has nothing to do with spark. Assuming you are getting power to the horn, back way off on the adjusting screw and see if it will spin. Take a safety pin and stick it through the insulation on a horn wire and see if you have 6 volts there or will it light a test light. If not, try the other wire. One should be hot. If you don't have a test light, make one or just scratch the pin to ground and see if it sparks. Don't blow your fuse.
Let's go from there. jack
Jack Bahm the test light comes on when I touch each wire of the horn and it also comes on at each side of the coil. The engine was running good. I went for a drive and parked in my driveway. When I went you start it and put it in the garage it wouldn’t start.