Old LMO is very stable compared to other Li-Ion chemistries, you can puncture it with a knife and it still doesn't catch on fire. But yes, best to keep these things outside of living quarters!
needs 7 in series for most 48v inverters. With 6 you'll have 44.4v nominal and thats kind of the empty end for 48v systems usually. LFP systems are 16s and that makes them 58v when fully charged so yeah. Probably everyone and their dog already shouted that you anyway :D
you are bringing up led-acid as an example yourself - now calculate whats the voltage for charged up led-acid x4 ;) and what is it when they are empty.
Hard to say exactly since I bought lots of part at the same time, but I got it via the Norwegian Bruktdel site. Maybe a few 200-300€ shipping and import tax?
@@DalasEVRepair Bruktdel asked me VAT number for export, they do not sell to private individuals. You should open a company in Sweden for resale in the EU. It would be good business.
I like you way of disassembling! :-) Is it 1000Eur PER pack and what nominal capacity do they have? 5kWh? BTW our cat would do the same...interested in anything new! 🙂
@@DalasEVRepair Joo näin oon ymmärtänyt - pitääpä katsoa. Taikoisitteko sieltä Kempowerilta sellasen 50kW V2G chademolaturin niin sitten voisi tehdä "sähköauton" mieleisekseen ja eikun myymään? ;)
The music was totally unnecessary and at a much higher volume than the spoken part of the video ... Your knowledge and abilities do not need music to enjoy the builds you do, Dala.. just a note sir.
hmmm... I wouldn't uncompress the modules and I would just reconfigure bus burs to have 48v but leaving the modules as they are. In this way: 1) do not the change layout for compressed modules that has been already optimised 2) do not have to rewire connector for BMS and just use adapter from a connector to the BMS layout. I've the same to decide for my 40kWh modules. 20kWh rear module will be not unpacked. BTW I didn't yet decide what voltage to use. I would prefer to use the pack as it is (with relative BMS) with high voltage (with relative risks) but hard to find inverter managing this kind of config
I forgot to mention why, I am making it semi portable, so you can easily carry it from one location to the other! That is why it is split into 7 manageable chunks! This emergency battery needs to be movable by one person!
How do you know that all cells are okay ? Does it matter similar way compared using i car ? Leaf cells seems to so that some pacls in middle are lot worse than those on edges ?!
I'm curious to know why you chose 14S as 13S is so common in the eBike world to represent 48V. 13 x 3.7V (nominal) is 48.1V but when fully charged at 4.2V would be 54.6V and when discharged at 3V would be 39V 14 x 3.7V is 51.8V but when fully charged at 4.2V would be 58.8V and when discharged at 3V would be 42V Is it true to say the inverter will be OK with either setup? I guess you will never charge to 4.2V so it will never be 58.8V
The LEAF's NMC pouch cells are nominally 3.65V rather than 3.7V, so the max voltage is likely lower too. Also, Dala might be programming the BMS's high cutoff voltage at 53V or 54V. If so, that's a decent strategy as it keeps the cells well below 100% SOC at all times, for longevity sake.
14S or 16S is quite common for Li-Ion chemistries. By adjusting the max charge voltage you can extend the lifecycle for the cells, just like Alan mentioned!
The battery pack has 2 series cells in each module. If you choose 13s, then you use 6.5 modules and leave one cell unused which is wasteful. If you choose 14S you use seven complete modules.
currently I found these EV vehicles with AESC battery : renault twizy first versinen, renault fluence, renault kangoo ze first version, any other AESC battery (nissan leaf) on EV/hybrid cars?
Hei Dala. I have a hybrid Gen24Plus 10kw and also looking for an alternative than a expensive BYD HVM batteries... You are doing everything right, that you are looking for another, good option. And the biggest problem was to understand BYDs RTU protocol and you are now on the way to build at least a 350V battery? Greatings from the other side of the pond,Latvia:)All together for energy self-sufficiency👍
Hi, the Gen24 system are now compatible with BYD HVM, BYD Premium HVC and LG RESU FLEX. Sadly none of these protocols are open, so DIY batteries that integrate natively with the gen24 is still a bit away. But I am hopeful we will get there soon! :)
Thanks for the video Dala! The whole time I'm nail biting saying "What BMS" is he going to use 😅. Also interesting you went with all paralleled stacks, then into series; any specific reasoning here.? Can't wait to see your completed setup!!! ☺️🙏
Thanks! I wanted to make it portable-ish, so having it in those individual pieces will help out a lot! And 48V is very common for inverters compared to 400v 😅
Hi! great Project! Is there any option that you will be selling the battery case with BMS and wiring from the Fluence? I need one of these for my 55 kWh Fluence project :-)
Hi, The case was damaged (and further damaged in the video), and I used the BMS wiring to make the powerwall, but the BMSes are available if you need them!
Great stuff! I'm busy rebuilding my house, and a project like this is going to be done after. Any tips on finding those old battery packs? Do you go and visit all the car breakers, or do you have online sources? Thanks for sharing!!
I'm not sure about on line but just calling local junkyards is been the easiest way I've found good leaf cells. I see them on line sometimes but they cost to much and you don't know how they are gonna be. The ones from a junkyard are usually from the wreck and still fairly good. If you use them in a power wall build its best to buy high voltage dc components if you are gonna power a home. Look up Mike g solar on youtube and he has the high voltage systems in his place. The high voltage systems are industrial grade as most 48 volt stuff is hobby grade.
Thank you for interesting topic video . When you buy your packs online, do you get some test results on the packs...been looking at the Swedish bildelsbasen and they all just state OK... what ever that means.
@@DalasEVRepair But you can check each cell individually before assembling, can't you? Or better you do that don't you? How big drop in voltage is acceptable in such an application?
super excited to see these diy packs
how dare you not provide us with an intro.... 🤣 great job so far
Love your videos man!
Kiitoksia taas hyvästä videosta ja ideasta! Uutta jaksoa odotellessa.
Nice. I prefer LiFePO4 for this application though; just for the safety aspect alone...
Old LMO is very stable compared to other Li-Ion chemistries, you can puncture it with a knife and it still doesn't catch on fire. But yes, best to keep these things outside of living quarters!
needs 7 in series for most 48v inverters. With 6 you'll have 44.4v nominal and thats kind of the empty end for 48v systems usually.
LFP systems are 16s and that makes them 58v when fully charged so yeah. Probably everyone and their dog already shouted that you anyway :D
you are bringing up led-acid as an example yourself - now calculate whats the voltage for charged up led-acid x4 ;) and what is it when they are empty.
jk active balancer bms for 100 is what i'm planning to go with. Good configuration options, smarthome integration and no wasted resistor balancing.
Nice, I feel like active balancing might not be worth it on such a small pack that I have :D
Where did you got the pack and how much was the transport?
Hard to say exactly since I bought lots of part at the same time, but I got it via the Norwegian Bruktdel site. Maybe a few 200-300€ shipping and import tax?
@@DalasEVRepair are there companies in Norway that sell ev batteries to UE (no VAT)?
Anyone can purchase, but you always have to pay Norwegian VAT, import tax, shipping.
@@DalasEVRepair Bruktdel asked me VAT number for export, they do not sell to private individuals.
You should open a company in Sweden for resale in the EU.
It would be good business.
Bruktdel is a collection of wreckers, some of the places might have different policies. Importing takes time and effort yes!
Why not just leave them in the original configuration and just change the connection bars?
If I were to do this again, I would never open the battery. I would just use the 400V battery as-is with the Battery-Emulator
Mitä lopuille kennoille tapahtui? Teitkö vain yhden seitsemän kennon packin?
Hyllyllä vielä!
I like you way of disassembling! :-) Is it 1000Eur PER pack and what nominal capacity do they have? 5kWh? BTW our cat would do the same...interested in anything new! 🙂
15kWh in this pack for 1000€!
@@DalasEVRepair Wow! That is REAL cheap! 💪
What 48v hybrid inverter you will use ?
Going with a Victron, more info in next video!
@@DalasEVRepair Ok, Mulle tulee kai Solis Hybriidi, siihen käy vaan 160-600v akut, niitä ei kai voi itse rakentaa ?
@@galax64 en osaa sanoa, suosittelen keskustelufoorumeja kun esim secondlifestorage.com !
Mites tällänen tehää lailliseksi? Ketkä uskaltaa kirjottaa paperia mihin tarvittaessa vakuutustarkastaja voi helposti sanoa "ok"?
Offgrid on helpompi kuin ongrid, suosittelen että luet fb-ryhmä "Tuuli- aurinko- ja pienvesivoiman itserakentajat"
@@DalasEVRepair Joo näin oon ymmärtänyt - pitääpä katsoa. Taikoisitteko sieltä Kempowerilta sellasen 50kW V2G chademolaturin niin sitten voisi tehdä "sähköauton" mieleisekseen ja eikun myymään? ;)
@@rkan2 Valitettavasti en voi kommentoida
@@DalasEVRepair meen Lahden konttorin ulkopuolelle osoittamaan mieltä "V2G:tä kansalle" xD
The music was totally unnecessary and at a much higher volume than the spoken part of the video ... Your knowledge and abilities do not need music to enjoy the builds you do, Dala.. just a note sir.
Kiusaus olis suuri käyttää Teslan akku moduulia, siinähän on yhdessä moduulissa valmis 24v 233Ah paketti
Looking forward to see how this goes over the next few videos. Well done
hmmm... I wouldn't uncompress the modules and I would just reconfigure bus burs to have 48v but leaving the modules as they are.
In this way:
1) do not the change layout for compressed modules that has been already optimised
2) do not have to rewire connector for BMS and just use adapter from a connector to the BMS layout.
I've the same to decide for my 40kWh modules. 20kWh rear module will be not unpacked. BTW I didn't yet decide what voltage to use. I would prefer to use the pack as it is (with relative BMS) with high voltage (with relative risks) but hard to find inverter managing this kind of config
I forgot to mention why, I am making it semi portable, so you can easily carry it from one location to the other! That is why it is split into 7 manageable chunks! This emergency battery needs to be movable by one person!
@@DalasEVRepair hmmmm could make a lot of sense :)
Thanks for the video. I will follow the next ones 👍
Amazing reuse ♻️
I was ruminating on doing something similar with old Honda Insight nimh battery pack (they are really cheap)
more in detail I have each honda module made by 12x1,2v for a 14v 5,85Ah... I should connect in series...
I use 24 leaf modules to power my camper tiny home. I also have 560ah of lifepo4. Do you know how many ah is in 24 leaf modules?
How do you know that all cells are okay ? Does it matter similar way compared using i car ? Leaf cells seems to so that some pacls in middle are lot worse than those on edges ?!
Thanks for sharing! I'm learning a lot from your videos. 👍
I'm curious to know why you chose 14S as 13S is so common in the eBike world to represent 48V.
13 x 3.7V (nominal) is 48.1V but when fully charged at 4.2V would be 54.6V and when discharged at 3V would be 39V
14 x 3.7V is 51.8V but when fully charged at 4.2V would be 58.8V and when discharged at 3V would be 42V
Is it true to say the inverter will be OK with either setup?
I guess you will never charge to 4.2V so it will never be 58.8V
The LEAF's NMC pouch cells are nominally 3.65V rather than 3.7V, so the max voltage is likely lower too. Also, Dala might be programming the BMS's high cutoff voltage at 53V or 54V. If so, that's a decent strategy as it keeps the cells well below 100% SOC at all times, for longevity sake.
@@alozborne Agreed. It would be madness to charge to 4.2V or discharge to 3V.
14S or 16S is quite common for Li-Ion chemistries. By adjusting the max charge voltage you can extend the lifecycle for the cells, just like Alan mentioned!
The battery pack has 2 series cells in each module. If you choose 13s, then you use 6.5 modules and leave one cell unused which is wasteful. If you choose 14S you use seven complete modules.
BMS looks like a Batrium as far as I can tell from it being in bubble wrap?
What Bms are you using?
Is it just me or those that pack look a lot like a Leaf battery? Cell design is similar, and the balance wire terminals look the same etc.
Renault-Nissan used the same modules!
currently I found these EV vehicles with AESC battery : renault twizy first versinen, renault fluence, renault kangoo ze first version,
any other AESC battery (nissan leaf) on EV/hybrid cars?
Never don’t work 2 hand !!!! With battery!!!!
When will can bridges be available?
State of Health mitattu ?
Ei vielä, veikkaan noin 75%!
Hei Dala. I have a hybrid Gen24Plus 10kw and also looking for an alternative than a expensive BYD HVM batteries...
You are doing everything right, that you are looking for another, good option. And the biggest problem was to understand BYDs RTU protocol and you are now on the way to build at least a 350V battery?
Greatings from the other side of the pond,Latvia:)All together for energy self-sufficiency👍
Hi, the Gen24 system are now compatible with BYD HVM, BYD Premium HVC and LG RESU FLEX. Sadly none of these protocols are open, so DIY batteries that integrate natively with the gen24 is still a bit away. But I am hopeful we will get there soon! :)
Hello Dala, really enjoy your videos. Just wondering, why is this layout 14S? I'd guess this is 6P7S setup. Probably I'm missing something here...
14S to get the common 48V needed for many inverters!
Thanks for the video Dala! The whole time I'm nail biting saying "What BMS" is he going to use 😅. Also interesting you went with all paralleled stacks, then into series; any specific reasoning here.? Can't wait to see your completed setup!!! ☺️🙏
Thanks! I wanted to make it portable-ish, so having it in those individual pieces will help out a lot! And 48V is very common for inverters compared to 400v 😅
Hi! great Project! Is there any option that you will be selling the battery case with BMS and wiring from the Fluence? I need one of these for my 55 kWh Fluence project :-)
Hi, The case was damaged (and further damaged in the video), and I used the BMS wiring to make the powerwall, but the BMSes are available if you need them!
@@DalasEVRepair The BMS, junction box and the lower deck of the battery would do the job :-)
Great stuff! I'm busy rebuilding my house, and a project like this is going to be done after. Any tips on finding those old battery packs? Do you go and visit all the car breakers, or do you have online sources?
Thanks for sharing!!
I am really close to Norway, so I shop at Bruktdel!
I'm not sure about on line but just calling local junkyards is been the easiest way I've found good leaf cells. I see them on line sometimes but they cost to much and you don't know how they are gonna be. The ones from a junkyard are usually from the wreck and still fairly good. If you use them in a power wall build its best to buy high voltage dc components if you are gonna power a home. Look up Mike g solar on youtube and he has the high voltage systems in his place. The high voltage systems are industrial grade as most 48 volt stuff is hobby grade.
how many end plates do you have, who many will you need?
I have lots of leftover endplates from older packs that I have disassembled. 14 plates needed for this build.
Thank you for interesting topic video . When you buy your packs online, do you get some test results on the packs...been looking at the Swedish bildelsbasen and they all just state OK... what ever that means.
No they don't want to list quality / don't bother checking. All packs are bought blind from wreckers.
@@DalasEVRepair But you can check each cell individually before assembling, can't you? Or better you do that don't you?
How big drop in voltage is acceptable in such an application?
@@leiflillandt1488 not possible to check if you are ordering online... I' target below 50mV diff at high SOC