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Model Railroad Yards--Design for Operations
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- Опубликовано: 19 мар 2018
- In this video we talk about model railroad yards--design for operations. Yard operations can be one of the most challenging and fun aspects of operations on your #model #railroad #layout. If you design for #operations before building your model railroad #yard it will operate more efficiently and cause less frustration.
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A lot of high density information. While listening to your remarks about caboose tracks I was reminded of the conductor who always had his cab parked next to a pole along the track. It seems he had a TV antenna up on the pole. All the modern inconveniences... First class while away from home. Modeler might want such a detail. Thanks.
Great detail idea. Thnks for sharing it.
Hi Ron, I just love that rail yard. I am a very very big fan of rail yards and switching cars from track to track and rearranging them. I also am a very big fan of mainline trains. Mainline trains are my favorite. Cory Mears
Yard are always superior to meters! Love the Video!!!
I’m just getting back into Ho model railroading and very much appreciate this excellent video. Thank you👍
I am track designer at an engineering consulting company. I learned quite a few new things about yard operations from this video!
Ron:
I've been in HO scale for over 50 years, and I agree with you 100%! My main yard has 6 tracks, + a run around track, and leads at both ends that will accommodate pulling all the cars out of the longest track, without fouling the main.
Another thing that annoys the hell out of me, is the guy that tries to "cram" too much RR, into too small of room, or basement! This usually results in aisles too narrow, or all kinds of "bottlenecks" in track work, and a "nightmare" to operate!
My advice is if you don't have the room for modeling a prototype from one end to the other, Don't even try! Pick a certain division, or a an area of the prototype you want to model, and let that be the "stage" for the trains to operate on. If room permits, a staging yard at each end of the mainline, or a single double-ended hidden staging yard, to build trains, to come out on the "stage", for viewing or operation.
J.W. Bliss
I couldn't agree more. Thanks for your comment.
Talking Notes for My Rail yard got it Figured out now I Need Money for the Switches now for the Inside line.
Thanks for the video Ron! My biggest struggle was yard design and understanding what the purpose for each track was! Awesome video.
Glad I could help.
Found this very informative thanks I am in the UK and a fan of modelling which has led me to model railroading in particular north American. I have no idea how railroads work and this has made things so much clearer I am using these ideas in my track planning. Thanks again.
Thanks, David. I was once where you are--a new model railroader with no idea how things worked. That frustration was the whole reason I started this channel 20 years later. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the great video. It helped me design the basic structure of my yard.
Wow, Ron! What a very valuable and informative video. I learned a lot. Thank you.
Thanks.
Yeah I'm starting to build my layout. Looking to have 2 yards on the layout. Separate from each other. One will have 6 tracks and one 2 tracks. I like the run by affect but I'm starting to get into operations. I'm trying to get to 130 cars on my manifest train to model one that goes by me. I got 68 cars for it so far. I'm gonna run one track main with a siding. I got a engine facility on a module that will hold some of my locos. Great stuff man.
Ron, you should win some kind of award for that video! Your best yet,imo. Very informative and just what I need at this time. Thank you Sir!
Thanks.
Couple of things here. You can add interest by keeping the drill track/switch lead shorter than a train length. To avoid having to work against the yard ladder have the turnouts staggered with the shortest tracks closest so you don't have to reach over the cars. If possible I like to have the main at the back of the yard so I don't have to lean over a running main track if you have other trains running while working in the yard.
Very Good Ron! Well put together, simple easy to understand explanations on yards. Invaluable information that isn't cluttered with unnecessary antics.
And you explained things for the Steam Era, which you are not modeling. Very helpful since my timeline will be somewhere between 1920 to 1934 in a 48'x80' room.
Very Professional!
Great video Ron, thanks for sharing the knowledge. With zero railroad experience I like to hear everyone's opinion on how things work best or better for them. It keeps me from having to learn the hard way (most times). Thanks again.-Ed
“I’m not talking about meters, I’m talking about yards”
Welp, I’m sold!
and I'm done!
Thanks Ron, I'm adding a yard to my layout soon, this has helped a lot, thanks for sharing
Beautiful looking yard....
Wow I’m learning a lot from watching your videos! Thanks a million! Take care! Peace from Welland Ontario Canada 🇨🇦
Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.
For a model railroad yard, it is very handy to have a crossover from the switching tail track to the main track, so you can access the main track directly from the bowl tracks. Also a crossover to allow access from the main to the tail of the switching lead is very handy. That way a train can stop on the main, the power can cut off and a switcher can work the train right off the main, putting cars into the class/AD yard and adding cars back to the train from the class/AD tracks.
Great video! Thanks for the tips. I searched for that book. Saw in one article it sold for north of $2000 with average online selling price of about $150-175. Insanity! 😆 Must be a gold mine of info.
Thanks, very informative & helpful. I’m designing a yard now for my expansion around my room. Lots of things I did not consider yet, but will now.
Thanks for the tips, now I need to go redesign my yard. For the better of course.
Earned a new sub, getting back into model trains as an adult and your videos have helped me learn a lot of stuff I didn't know when I was younger. Thanks a ton.
I would like to see a video on the progress that you have done to your North yard and the building you're working on, I think it would also be nice to do a Operation session In your North yard. Thank you for putting up these videos it is helping Model railroaders who don't understand track switching and the purpose of it thank you.
Hello Ron, Thanks for doing a good job on model railroad yards.
I did a clinic for Youth in Model Railroading (Kids club) we sponsor and used your video presentation.
- Steve
Hi, Stephan. That's awesome. I have long wanted to teach some model railroading to kids. I've even considered working with local Boy Scouts on their model railroading badge, but I've never gotten the opportunity. Thanks for sharing this with me.
Thx Ron for sharing this. I have a layout with two independent loops that share a junction yard. My original track plan called for a crossover prior to the yard throat which obviously fouled the lead track. I simply put it on the other side of the ladder switch and viola'! Operations improve tenfold, and it actually looks way cooler without changing the complexity of the layout.
Awesome.
Time to take another view into this video, been up for some time now.
Just a couple of points:
1) The yard lead doesn't necessarily need to be as long as your longest classification track as you said. Sometimes it may help the yard-master get through the job faster, but it may be at the expense of realism. For one thing, a longer lead shortens the length of open main line before the next town (something we can never get enough of at the best of times). In most cases, the yard switcher will not be in the same power group as the heavy freight locomotives that brought the train in, so may not even be able to move it. Even if it can move the whole train, it will be very sluggish so it will probably be a lot more efficient to take it in two or three bites. Lastly, before the days of two-way radios, it was just too darn dangerous to switch a train length cut where the engine crew cannot see the far end.
2) Even in a post 1980 layout, thought should be give to where the engine-servicing facilities and caboose tracks were (even if they have since been torn up). In a real yard, there will almost always be vestiges of what once was, so showing these on a model can greatly improve the realism. A weed-covered spur off the yard lead with a seldom-used snow plow parked where the cabooses used to be; or an intermodal yard or modern office building where the engine terminal once was; for example.
I was sharing what I would consider to be best practices for a switching yard that will run optimally on a busy layout. Granted, compromises often have to be made on model railroads as in the prototype, but these are the ideals that I believe will provide operational results that most people would be most happy with.
Regarding remnants of earlier facilities in a yard, your are right, these can make very interesting modeling. Depending on how close to modern day on models, the prototype will often have various remnants of old track and facilities remaining. I was not discouraging such elements. My focus was discussing the OPERATING tracks in a yard, and for my purposes that is a modern day yard.
I agree with mpeterll. My prospective is as a career railroader. A big drag is harder to handle. With cars bled off and freewheeling, the engine has to be able to stop it. Sometimes I request a few cars left on air. This way they can be used to help to stop. A switch crew or yard master will make strategic cuts. One yard which I work in only has about 15 car lengths of headroom on the lead. We could easily switch out a 80 car train in about an hour.
Your yard length doesn’t have to be the length of the trains. In many yards a long inbound train needs to go on multiple tracks. Another yard that I work in has about 70 car capacity on the longest track. We frequently handle 120 car trains. Sometimes the lead needs to be fouled while yarding or doubling up a train.
One aspect that modelers don’t emulate is the topography of the yard. Most are bowl shaped. This prevents cars from rolling out if a hitch doesn’t make. It also helps kicked cars roll in. That yard with the 15 car length drill track, which ends at the clearance point, of a switch onto another railroad. It is easy to switch because as an engineer, I just need to give a small start, and the cars will easily roll into the track.
I don’t see why you didn’t put a lead on the other end of your yard. This way it would be more flexible. Trains could be made up from either end. A good example is a local freight. It might only have a few cars. There is no need to use a long receiving/departure track, as it might be needed for a big road job, which is simultaneously being built. The local that I work is made up on a short track, since we usually only have a few cars.
Some larger yards have more than one lead on each end, sort of like you did between your classification and departure tracks. This is so two jobs can work the same end.
Very excellent presentation. Covers essentials and simple must-haves for any well running model railroad yard. Good to find out that I can check off all the boxes with my Burr Oak Yard on my layout. lol
Excellent. Thanks so much.
Great Video, Ron. Appreciate your insight.
I managed to design a yard without arrival / departure tracks, without the runaround loop, without a headhsunt / lead track.
The station I designed was 3 track station consisting of a bay platform and 2 running lines.
Because there's no arrival / departure tracks, locomotives operating the mainline would need to shunt their own train off the mainline directly into the classification yard itself.
There's no runaround track so trains need to be sorted prior to being put directly onto the train.
There's no direct headshunt to the classification tracks which means that trains would need to use the bay platform of the station to switch cars between classification tracks.
This bay platform is also necessary for any trains to access the local industries.
The bay platform is live and recieves passenger trains from the branchline while mainline not only takes through trains but also freight trains as well.
It's a very simple yard with a lot of conflicting movments between trains and train services and a lot of the movments happen directly on the main running lines.
It's not efficent, but simple and saves a lot on space.
Thanks Ron for that lesson. I'm a ho guy however track is track. I HAVE MANY OF THE MODEL RAILROAD MAGS BUT NOT THE FRIEGHT YARD ONE. NOW I WILL BE LOOKING FOR THAT ONE. THANKS AGAIN.
Good luck in your search. I don't know why, but the publisher let this one go out of print. It is unfortunate because it was an excellent reference book. They are available on Amazon used but are extremely high dollar. I hope you can find 1 for a reasonable price.
Wow..a lot of stuff to know about a yard.. thanks for sharing and keep up the great work.. Lance
Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.
Nice, Ron made me want a basement even more! But it was good info.
Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.
Hey Ron, thanks for the great video. Many great responses like Eric (IMRRO's) build on your video. You said about difficulty in purchasing the Model Railroader's Guide to Freight Yards by Any Sperandeo. After watching the video I went on the hunt and found quite a few available from AU$107 up second hand or AU$275 up to over AU$1,000. Thanks again Ron.
Yes, it can be found, but is ridiculously expensive mostly.
Thank you, Ron. Found this helpful again. Good access to the subject by animating your layout to explain the aspects. Noticed various gimmicks you added to your video design. Regards, Jo
Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.
THANKS, RON AS BUILD ONE THROUGH YARD AND TWO END YARDS WITH INTERCHANGE YARDS AT EACH END OF LAYOUT TO USE STAGE YARDS IN OPERATION
Awesome. I would use some different principles for staging yards, but sounds good.
Always enjoy your videos, thank you for taking the time to share. You've come a long way since I subscribed and they just keep getting better. Keep up nice work.
Thanks, Kenneth. Just out of curiosity from your comment, when exactly did you subscribe?
Back when you first got started, was like low 300 subscribers. Found you from RUclips Model Builders and have followed ever since.
Cool. Thanks for your post.
YES! Thank you. I've seen so many modelers just have have their main line run right through their yard use the main line for head room when switching. As a conductor it bugs me sooo much. lol I mean its their layout but it still bothers me XD. Switching leads, are so incredibly useful. At NS we call them switching leads.
Lots of good information about yard design. Your North Yard is a classification yard. Personally, I don't enjoy sorting cars, especially N scale cars with difficult to read reporting marks (And I am an N scale modeler). Classification yards also take up a lot of real estate. In my experience, classification yards can become bottle necks as well. So even though they are popular with modelers, I'm avoiding a classification yard with my layout design. There are additional yards such as interchange or industrial yards you might explore in future videos. IMRRO is correct pointing out prototype yard design may differ from preferred practices for model trains. I've observed prototype yards which do not have classification tracks as long as the longest trains sent out on the mainline. This is especially so in urban yards where space is limited (just as on model railroads). An outbound train may have to pull strings of cars from more than one track to finally assemble on the main the departing train. Keep your videos coming. They are great resources.
Thanks for your comment. 👍
Hi Ron, I have watched your video before. At the time I wasn't ready for a yard or even sure if I could include one in my layout. But I really have wanted one so I have a workbench that I am converting the space to be used for a yard. Your design of north yard has helped me with ideas as I start to plan mine out.
Thanks,
Chuck
that's an awesome yard
Thanks for the informative video. Love the yard design. I would move the RIP tracks above the yard so you could shove cars into them as you classify. Use the current RIP tracks for a larger engine facility with tracks for tank cars.
That makes sense, but this us the track arrangement on thebprototype North Yard so I'll stick with it.
Don't forget the most important resource available. That resource is: William K. Walther's, Inc.
They often have supplies of out-of-print reference books available.
Good tip. Thanks.
Very interesting video on how to set up a yard thanks
Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.
Very informative. Would love to see you explain the yard operations by actually demonstrating them in the yard with moving trains.
I will probably do something like that sometime like I did on the RIP track video. In this case, with the other info I shared, it just would have been too long. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Good work, As you said "Model Railroad operations". Real railroads are completely different animal. That is the point where people copying a prototype run into problems. The prototype yard is this way so I will do it this way and come to find out our model railroads in many ways do not stack up with the protype and yard operations is one point. Real railroads Double over, Run full shifts or 24 hours etc. Most local yards do not have leads and just use the main as a lead. Traffic density is so low it might be an hour or more between trains. Distance is huge compared to a model railroad. The A/D track is the main. etc.
Thanks! I have a small local yard on my 4x8' and have no choice but to use the main as the lead. So that's a relief. Fortunately, it's a double-track main, so I have options.
IMRROcom was
Scott Denison, Was? did he die or something?
Lol...
That's a relief to read that. I am planning my layout and would like to run long trains on a double track mainline, but it looked like ideally the arrival, departure and yard lead tracks were supposed to be as long as the longest possible train stopping in my yard. That would require a lot more space than I have. If "fouling the main" for a little while to drop off and pick up cuts of cars is allowed and even prototypical, then everything becomes much easier. The yard then only needs to big enough to handle the arrival, departure and classification needs of the local area. Correct?
Thanks for the video. Just a note on Andy’s book - It is available at Barnes and Noble in Nook format for $10.99. Free readers for mobile devices. I lost my original in a basement flood back in 2010 along with the rest of my MR library 😕
Hey, thatks for that head's up. Many people will want to know that as the out of print used copies out there cost a small fortune.
Ron's Trains N Things You ain’t kidding! I just came from EBay and some crooks want $80 to $127 for a USED copy. After my heart calmed down, and before I saw the OP above, I also found B & N listing. I hope those guys on eBay choke on their copy...
@@samiam619 Amazon is the same way - starting at $79 and up to (as of right now) $217 (!!) for a copy.
for my needs currently i feel cervis lines are optinal moslty because where the yard be it be out of sight at least for the inishal yard thats the main storage hub of everything and point of that storage hub being out of sight is so theres more room for layout to actuly explore i had the idea of making such a area by using the basic concept of dr who but for trains and it would appear like as if the trains are comming out of a blue shed with walls on it sides when relly its comming from under neath it so then there for it can be as big or small as i need or like it to be and not eating up lay out space there may be some decoratinal yards dotted about but noting cruitical of great importances to me for now but im glad the vid is here for when i want to go a bit more serious on such a concept
Great work and very informative !!!
Thanks.
What a fantastic video. Thank you. I learned a ton. And you really peaked my interest in perhaps doing yard work with my new layout. Thanks again.
Very interesting and informative! I have built several yards in my years of model railroading, but none with the operational detail presented here. Sadly, I do not have the space to build my N-scale "empire" at this time. However, I do have Trainz railroad simulator for PC. I have plans to build a new yard in one of my cities. This video came along at just the right time. Now I am thinking about rebuilding the yard in another major city on my route.
Thank you so much for taking the time to share these ideas with us. This is going to be very helpful as I plan out future yard development both in Trainz and on a physical layout once I make the room or it. I was even making sketches of some ideas as I watched this.
Thanks again for this video.
Thank you so much for your comment. I am very glad that you found this video helpful. I think it helps a lot to think about how and why yards work... How they do what they do and why they do it. That's what makes it all very interesting to me. Thanks for watching.
Thanks fer the reply. Been a big train/railroad fan most of my life...and of course a model railroader as well. I never really put much thought into yards, even though that is where I ended up spending a good portion of my operating time. My thought process was mostly just lay some tracks to put cars on and move them around with little real purpose, except to be moving cars around. I also like doing way freight and local runs, but never really thought much about what happened to the loaded/empty cars once picked up from their respective industries.
It wasn't until I started working with the Trainz platform that I started to realize just how all of this needed to be integrated. Of course I never really had the space to create a physical layout of any major proportion. Upon creating actual operating routes with Trainz, I realized that I was missing out on a ton of operations and even interesting challenges with switching, etc.
Anyways, the TLDR version is that I really drew a lot from this video. As I said above, I discovered it at just about the right time in the development of my live stream route. I think this is going to add some of the elements that have been lacking in that route.
I will be back to look in on some of your other videos. For now, I think I am going to play around with some yard ideas before hitting the ole snore-shelf. Thanks again. You have earned a new subscriber.
200th comment!!! I love you Ron! Your vids R so usefull! Thank U for sharing!! Awesome!👏👏
Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.
Extremely interesting evening sat watching this on my TV set, I'm planning a new layout and this helps so much cheers...
Glad you found it helpful. Thanks and good luck.
Barnes and Noble has digital copies of Yard Design for Model Railroaders for $11. Much better than the cheapest price I could find on the physical copy, which was $75!
hRon, this has been a wonderful share.. as you and I have shared briefly in the past showing you some considerations of mine in planning..the yard, for me, has been one of the most frustrating aspects of the new track plan.. it's pretty weird..I know what I need.but, I continue to fall short in accomplishing the task. This video explains the why's and what for's perfectly. Thank you for sharing. Tom.. oh, btw..sorry about the delay in sharing photos of the custom painted locos of mine...OTS.. they are packed away, buried to a point and not real easy to get to at this time..
Hi, Tom. No problem on the photos. I'm glad you found the video helpful. Good luck on designing that yard.
You videos are great. I started many years ago under the guidance of my brother. The problem is he wanted me to use the cookie cutter method for raising the track. However he told me to use 1/4 inch plywood. Over the years I read articles that 1/2 inch plywood should be used. I just used more surports to hold the plywood. I also used the Truscale wood roadbed which is a self-gauging roadbed. It is great. There was no cork or foam around then. Some of my turnouts are the Truscale closed frog design. This is great as it eliminates the gap at the frog. I also do not model to a certain prototype. I mix Fleischmann with American rolling stock. I am a DC operator, DCC is nice but I do not wish to convert.
How many moons ago? I know for a fact that cork roadbed was available in the mid 60s. Another option back in the day was a construction product called Homasote. Sold in 4 x 8 sheets. Either laid flat or ripped into strips and installed on edge with the strips stacked sideways to form curves etc. l do remember seeing videos of a large HO scale layout being built maybe 8 years ago. The builder was using Homasote for the roadbed.
Foam insulation panels were around in the 70s possibly earlier.
Ron,
It tirns out that inclines can be a very tricky thing to get right. I shot mine with a laser which really helped.
But this might be a good series for you regarding inclines in general.
Here are some thoughts about it - - -
An incline can be calculated with the rise divided by percent grade ( 2 % is expressed as .02)
So 8 inches up / .02 is 400 inches of run.
1. What should the incline be made out of . . .wood, foam, etc.
2. How wide should the sub roadbed of the incline be ?
Track member width + ballast width + scenicing along the rails+ distance from backboard?
3. How to support the incline?
4. Should it be tight up against the backdrop? - - spacing?
5. How to scenic the backdrop best behind the incline so it ties in?
Flat buildings, low reliev buildings, structrures along the incline? Photographic backdrop?
6. The side base of the incline rise is steep to avoid other benchwork items. How best to scenic the side slope? - arches, viaducts, brickwork, stone or rock face, etc?
7. How best to lay track on an incline against the backdrop? How to get the drop feeders down? How to solder the back rail out of your view - - -mirror?
Or perhaps assemble a section of incline board near you, lay the track, drop the feeds, and set this section of incline in place afterwards? Drilling the holes thru the benchwork to get the drops down below for connecting to the bus? Glue the incline supports first and drop the deck on top of it?
No one is discussing these aspects of an incline - which is a very nice soluiton if a helix is not your solution to elevate the track.
Should an incline be its own block? Throwing a Tortoise on a reversing loop automatically?
Thanks very much.
Bob Schworm - Brecksville, OH
PS - I am a subscriber and look forward to all your videos - -well spoken and very well delivered.
Hi, Bob. First, I am doing a laser level review in a special video this Fri, and I mention that it is a great way to level benchwork so you can control grades. This is a great idea for a series. It has also been suggested and I am seriously considering a couple videos on how to build a helix, which would fit into this idea as well. Thanks for the suggestion.
Great! I will stay tuned. Thanks
Bob
Ron...some great advice about yard design with excellent examples from your own layout and some very good resources. In my case, due to space constraints, I have only a small two track interchange "yard". It has some of the elements that you identified such as a sufficiently long drill track, runarounds, and nearby industries served from the yard. Even with limited space, one can still enjoy yard operations...Harold
That is so true, Harold.
RON, I agree a good yard is a must, but you said they need to be as long as your longest passing siding, I did agree, a small yard just makes it a little harder, and a lot of real railroad didn't or don't, old Colton yard wasn't and the new one doesn't either, now UP own it but but they do work a lot better if they are & thanks for the tips about the books. Thanks for sharing....Jack
Ps- taking up old track t hats glued down can be taken up either Water and alcohol mixture, just watch Mike Fifer's video about it....
Perhaps I should have gone into more depth on that point. I really think a yard that originates and/or terminates more than local trains should have a lead as long as the trains. Not all do, true, but most busy yards will, and if you are running operating sessions this can become a real bottleneck. Local yards are a different story, which I did not differentiate on the video. My Wichita Falls yard has a shorter lead and class tracks, but it only receives and originates blocks of cars for local switching and interchange.
You are right about making them that long, and thanks for showing me I'm in the process of redesigning my layout now & your video couldn't have come at a better time as I'm working in any-rail to workout all th kinks and need to redesign the entire yard, thanks....ha ha bad me for not doing it right thed first time....Thanks again!
Another option is to goto your local library. If they do not have it, alot of libraries will lend their copy to your library for you to check out and read. Every library has different time lengths that they will let you borrow a book for. The shortest period I had one was 10 days, the longest was 30 days.
Ron love all your good info please keep it comming btw there are some railroads that do run cabooses due to the line they have to do a great deal of backing
Always look forward to your videos Ron! Great information here as I've been doing alot of research on operations as I re-re-re-re-redesign my layout....again! Got some good confirmation from you on my yard ideas and also liked to hear that it's "Okay" to have stub-end classification yards. My layout will be on an 11 x 10 L-shape and those double-ends do burn up alot of space. I'm going to be doing single man operation (aka ME) so I see no reason to not take advantage of the stub-ends to save space -- and costs too!!! Oh and awesome idea of using the engine maintenance and backshops as an industry. I had not thought of that!
Glad you found it helpful. Good luck as you build.
Great video great yard design
Hi Ron Very Well presented, informative video i know many will benefit from this one /Wayde
Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.
Thanks for the tips. They are very useful. But the biggest feature of your videos is they cause the viewer to think. I always come away with new ideas after watching your program.
Awesome advice, thanks for the video. I'll be hitting the Subscribe Button!
Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching. Welcome aboard.
Great video, I agree that operations and yard switching is some of the most fun parts of this hobby. I find it interesting how yards work and the puzzle they create. Also, thank you for the link to the Layout Design site. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, Joe.
Now you have me redoing my whole main yard on my layout.
Look at the way real yards are laid out. A good source is the Burlington Northern Historical Society. They have old timetables, but also yard diagrams. I like to look at the ones in my old territory. You can look at them for ideas.
My planned layout is of the 1970s Boston and Maine Fitchburg Division. Their East Deerfield Yard is something that I want to model. It used to have a yard for eastbound, and westbound, with double mains in the middle.
In the late 1970s, it went through a remodeling. This new layout has all the elements that Ron suggested. There is the R yard, where trains arrive, but are also doubled for departure. There is a separate classification yard, which is called the West Yard. The present single main is rerouted along the south edge of the R Yard. The West Yard also features a hump. This is no Mount Everest, with retarders. The cars are just let go, and roll into the classification tracks. This element could be done with a Kaydee uncoupling magnet at the crest of the hump. In fact, someone did a module, of a scaled down version, at a local modular club.
Good vidoe and explaination of why you need to have the tracks that you described. I got my design based on an even earlier book.
How about a video about designing some of the other yard elements into one's yard, engine terminal, other service. Thanks!
Most cabooses in use before their end were 'pool' cabooses. They roamed the system freely.
Even with pooled cabooses, you might need to store them for the local jobs. One might have to lay over if it was to be used on a train that originated in that yard. Even after buggies were phased out, many locals still used them. This was mainly for shove moves. One job that I used to work, we kept it on the head pin (against the engine). This was because many industry tracks had tight curves. The 60’ engine couldn’t tie on to the cars. The shortness of the buggy allowed it to be able to make the hitch.
Getting into N scale, planning on a small railroad modeling of mid to late 70's CN. Going to have some modern rolling stock mixed in, but will focus on that era. Have a Atlas GP40-LW, 2 "Spans the World" CP Boxcars, and 2 Soo Sub Bulkhead flats from that era on the way to get started. Exited to see how much layout I can fit in my limited amount of space
I'm currently planning my first layout and this is quite helpful.
I have a main yard, and secondary yard (interchange) on my plan right now. I hope to add a hidden staging yard and a locomotive terminal as well.
Sounds interesting. Good luck.
@@RonsTrainsNThings thanks!
Im modeling 1980 to 2010 for the variety in color (BN, SP, ATSF, D&RGW, Early CSX, YN1, and the disappearing YN2) and cabooses. Aswell as certain colors and rolling stock it is hard to find a old c44-9cw with a brand new SD70ACe or a old run down gp9 in Blue Bonnet with the PRR heritage unit now a days.
Edit: It is even hard to see the RJ Corman GP9 anymore i will be pushing limits including UP 1943, And UP 4014 but it will be worth it and i think it be nice to have UP 1943 siting next to a brand new fresh from EMD SD40-2 for BNSF
My entire layout is based on yard and industrial switching. There is enough space to also have long distance train running as well.
That sounds cool.
Good video, Ron. I'm considering building a small railroad system based on Santa Fe operations in the 70's. But I'm looking to have some kind of yard area, but still have room for a railroad system and maybe a siding or two. Or maybe build a yard at the end of a division, like at a wye, so the train can go back toward the main. So I like this video for ideas. Thanks. Mike in Fresno.
One more information, Ron,
I have enough tracks, points, right & left, cross over in 2 different degree, numbers of cars, locos etc. as such, my stock will not be a problem.
Thanks,
Gopal Daga
Great video with lots of good info. Thanks Ron. I’m bookmarking this video. -Mark
Thanks man.
As an actual conductor looking at this video it certainly suffers model railroaditus, modeling how things SHOULD be not how they actually are in the field but this is one of those rare times it is for the better. The tips provided make switching easy and give a lot of freedom to learn and make mistakes without the yard melting down. I run out of a relative small yard with a lead, 4 stub tracks and 3 through tracks with an industry on the lead. There is no yard master and one crew who works THEIR yard. It can be a challenge at best and a nightmare to keep trains flowing smoothly. Only tip I can really add on is a railroad thinks a lot like an individual. If you don't have space, money for a ton of switches or need for a ton of complicated track work it is okay to skip it. Like Ron said it having those amenities makes running the yard easy and fun but if you're up to the challenge the amenities certainly arent necessary, use what you have to your advantage to get as much done as humanly possible
@17:33 I found the Freight Yards book used on Amazon... $160 plus shipping. Wow! That's almost $2 per page (88 pages).
Yes, it is absolutely insane. There are e-book versions out there for a normal price--around $10. Google it.
You might also consult a local bookstore specializing in book searches.
Hi,
Can you share the layout track plan visible in this video, please?
Thanks in advance
Best regards
Ayala Botto
Lisbon, Portugal
Can't count the times I've watched this!
Thanks Ron , great advise and insight. I just love your video format.
Mike
Thanks so much, Mike. Thanks for watching.
Thanks Ron. Very informative and thorough. Great ideas for my new layout.
Thank you.
Great info! Thanks!
Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.
May I suggest that you replace the left hand turnouts between your main line and arrival and departure tracks with RIGHT hand turnouts and align the through tracks of the turnouts? You would eliminate some wicked "S" curves! Also, there was not a great deal of "footage" of the south end of your yard but what I saw made me wonder why you didn't make it double ended? It seemed to me that a minor realignment of your main line would have given you room. Especially if you used curved turnouts. I mean to be helpful and not critical. This was a great video full of great info!
I hear what you are saying, but your suggestion would leave me with using the diverging route of a turnout on the mainline which is a bad idea any time and impossible using Peco turnouts which have a curved diverging route. As for the other end of the yard, the classification tracks are stub-ended, but I have no need to switch that end. the A/D track are double ended, allowing traffic to enter/exit to the main from either end to/from both A/D tracks.
We may not be referring to the same turnouts. I was speaking of the turnouts between the arrival and departure tracks at the north end. May I refer you to John Armstrongs book on Track Planning For Realistic Operation? He devotes a chapter on turnout placement and discusses the hazards of causing the cars in a consist to saw back and forth while negotiating a cross over. IMHO aligning the through tracks of the cross over turnouts to create a smoother path through the cross over and eliminate this see-saw-motion would reduce chances of a derailment regardless of where the diverging legs ended up. Worse case scenario would require modifying the cross over turn outs or hand-laid turnouts at that location to straighten the diverging legs.
One thing I have learned over the years is the last sentence in a model railroad argument is "It's MY railroad!" Enjoy!
Don't get me wrong, I am always looking for ways to improve. Like you said, I think we may not be talking about the same turnouts.
Wow Ron this was absolutely perfect, exactly what I’d been looking for, you explained the topics perfectly. Also having an example to look at was helpful.
One thing though you said that a thoroughfare track should not foul the yard lead, but in your example it seems like any train using the that trac would block the switch the yard lead needed to get to the ladder, albeit temporarily.
True, the thoroughfare ties in to the yard lead on one end, but it stall allows connection between the engine track and the yard without using the lead. You have to access the ladder, but that is unavoidable in a stub-ended yard.
Great info!
That "Dad Joke" at the beginning was pretty terrible, LOL.
I'm known for those. 🤣
Hi Ron. This video was a crucial source in my attempts to finally get into model railroading, and will form the basis of my layout when I build it. In the meantime, I picked up a computer game (Rolling Line) which imitates a model railroad and I promptly replicated your version of North Yard (that is, only connecting track 6 at both ends, the rest all being blind; also prior to you adding a connection between track 6 and the thoroughfare). I started playing with it and shunting wagons and it’s been a lot of fun, and has me thinking I won’t regret the acquisition of a bunch of N-scale rolling stock.
One thing I did notice is that I don’t have enough room at the far end of the yard to switch a locomotive between the two arrival-departure tracks without going into the main line. I couldn’t quite make out the details in your video but I was wondering if that’s the case on your layout and whether this impedes operations at all.
I'd love to incorporate a yard into my 4x6 or 4x8 layout. Just a line running parallel to the main lines, attached to a spur running diagonally up the middle of the oval. From that diagonal track will be several parallel branches running through the middle of the oval.
Hi Ron, thank you , thank you!! I read the other post from modelers and the term "Perfect" was the proper description!! This has been one of the most insightful, informative and educational model railroad videos I have watched in a while. Your breakdown really explains the "Yard" and it's use and how you can get nothing out of the design if not done without thinking first before designing. Just about everything you mentioned in your video I have incorporated into my yard, with a few exceptions. There are a couple of changes I want to make, but my main thought was in line with "operations" and not just running trains around. If you have a few minutes, please go to my channel and look at the video where I explain what I have done in that yard and please share your thoughts. I always enjoy your video and get so much from them, please don't stop sharing. Again, than you so much!!
David Muse (Washington Terminal Co. Model Railroad)
I took a look at your videos on your yard. It looks pretty solid in design to me. I always find some things I want to change or adjust--like the added corssover I mentioned in my video that I need to add--but I think you've nailed it pretty well there. Looks really nice. 👍
Thanks for the great videos Ron. Best on the net. Just getting started on railroad modeling. Still working on benchwork but was wondering how you approach decoupling in your operations. I see a lot of discussion on the use of magnets and would like to get your opinion on the best approach.
I'm planning to do something similar to Ron but might add 2 turntables for 2 different gauges (5 foot, 3 inch Broad and 4 foot, 8 and a half Standard) based on South Dynon yards in Melbourne, Australia
Got it, it's a Fiddle yard for stabling locomotives and rakes
2018 and we still use caboose for shoving platforms and have a track to set them in.
Pretty decent introductory treatise to the topic which is well supported by your yard photos and call-out marks, well done. And yes Andy's freight Yard Book is an excellent resource which Kalmbach really should re-issue. A couple of questions/points about your yard in specific.
First why do you say you don't have enough room to double end your classification tracks? It appears you could double end them and dual purpose the north end of your thoroughfare track as the beginning of the drill track. Then run it parallel to the mainline curve as far as possible. Failing that double end C1 through C5 with the drill track independent of the thoroughfare track curving around with the mainline. Granted in either case the resulting drill track won't be full length but double ended classification tracks with one of the drill tracks being a short are generally better than stub ended classification tracks.
Have you considered replacing the two point to point left hand switches at the south end of your A/D1 track with a double slip? Same handed point-to-point switches are notorious derailment sites and the double slip would also render slightly longer A/D tracks - certainly two cars per track if not three. Yes double slips are expensive but sometimes their benefits justify the costs and I think this might be one of those times.
The only criticism I would raise is the single ended "shotgun loaded" locomotive service track. If at all possible these tacks should be double ended so locomotives are serviced and dispatched in the order of their arrival rather than last-in-first-out. If you have any flexibility to move your RIP facility and the oil storage tank east (towards your mainline) you could put a switch close to the south end leading to a locomotive ready track that would exit onto your thoroughfare track adjacent to the RIP facility
Nice yard nonetheless and an informative video. Thanks for posting.
Andy's book is in digital format now.
Awesome video! What happened to the "LDSig Layout Design Primer--Yards" link?? I want to check it out along with the "smaller layout" part at the bottom. I do not have enough room to do a yard like this. I wished I did. You did a great job explaining and showing most of what you were saying. Thumbs up.
Thank you for explane this all. I miss one thing, how deep a switching yard can be, so it can be handeled easily by the operators. Excuse my English, greetings from Germany.
Your English is fine. I would use a maximum of 75 cm.