We want your NEWSH findings/suggestions, did we miss anything? Prizes for the best 2 :). Newsh ROW + UK/EU: elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/paints-hobby-and-scenery-by-manufacturer/monument-hobbies/newesh-acrylic-waethering-medium Newsh USA (from the makers): monumenthobbies.com/collections/paint-mediums Our Brushes: store.artis-opus.com/ Taro Modelmaker (the testing square): www.taromodelmaker.com/ Pete's INCREDIBLE fancy tank Newsh use: ruclips.net/video/eM4inrqvdlc/видео.html Useful info from the viewers (Thank You!): @hoopla1403 I’ve had decent results with high pigment stuff like inks and flow improver with newsh to do pretty close to pin washes, though you have to stick a bunch of varnishes on first as flow improver + Newsh chews through even multiple layers of cured paint
Couple of things I have learned trying out different things: 1. The type of brush you use can really change what type of effect you get when pulling things around. a. If you use a really stiff brush, you get very distinct lines as if rust water is always running down that path. b. If you use a soft brush, you get more of large soft area effect like something is seeping out over an area. 2. Make sure the base paint you are applying the newish mixture to on the model has dried for an extended period before working with it. I have pulled up the base paint when wiping the newish mixture away with soft cloth even though the base paint had been dried to the touch for several minutes. 3. Don't limit yourself to just traditional rust and oil colors to weather with it, use of other colors create cool effects. For example: a. With florescent paints (I used the ProAcrl ones), you can put it around a rivet or band on a tank and then smear it down to make it look like toxic sludge is leaking out b. The effect of moss or lichen growing on something because steady water flow can be created by a combination of blues and greens 4. To get a realistic effect, pay close attention to direction you are wiping away or pulling away newish mixture. You don't want to have it flowing upwards against gravity when pulling out of a recess to create streaking. When wiping away you will still have very faint lines in most cases, so you don't want to have lines going in all sorts of directions and instead want to have a general consisent direction (typically in the direction of motion for the model).
You can do this with watercolor. Also it is always removable, which may be an issue or a bonus depending on the use case. It also dries much faster than 45min (its dry, but you can still reactivate it). I guess you would use it quite late in the process or maybe varnish over it to continue painting. It is an interesting oil/enamel replacement that noone has covered yet because.. it doesn't come from a miniature paint brand? (I guess)
@@ItchaBoi No, watercolor has differing coverage depending on its pigment, which for good products is either clearly marked on the tube or available via the manufactures datasheet. This is basically the same as mini paint, except mini paint with bad coverage is considered "bad" and good coverage considered "good" when in reality it is the pigment that determines the level of coverage you will get. Yellow, which is known for being bad in mini painting world mostly uses transparent pigment, which is why mini paint coverage is god awful. Artist yellow is hit and miss as well, but this is explained via markings on the tube (opaque/semi opaque/transparent) that relate to the pigment used.
That was the best video review I've seen for newsh. Everyone else's have been very samey but you tried different tools techniques and even stress tested it. Great video dude
Fantastic video thank you! I’d got some Newsh already but didn’t know/hadn’t got round to experimenting. Your video inspired me to try similar with my taro panels. I’ve also found an awesome use of it is as a masking agent. I painted up a panel as normal, put a thick “blob” of newsh in the middle, let it mostly dry, then did a wash all round it. Once the wash dried, I rubbed the newsh away and the borders where surface tension was higher left an amazing effect. I’m using it to look like fire reflection / damage on a terrain diorama. Give it a go!
Products like this, and reviews like this, really bring some excitement into the hobby that I think everyone can really be a part of that makes this hobby even better. Thanks for the review, makes me want to find out some ways to use it myself.
@@ArtisOpus Fully concur with the above. With so much click-bait now and everyone trying to out-due each other, it's really nice to have a down-to-earth video with inspiring ideas that don't cost $500+ to implement as well as costing $$$ to have a room full of tools and endless time. Thank you for considering the average WH hobbyist!
Spectacular video!! Finally someone who thinks like I do. Scientist more than a creative type, however I needed more to be able to properly create the effects for my model RC hobby. This video perfectly marries the two! Thank you. I loved the scientific approach to realize the creative outcome through trial and error, testing and retesting. Brilliant!! Finally someone who gets it and can explain it in an attainable and easily understood method.
Loved the video Byron! I’ve had Newsh for about a month now and I absolutely love it for my terrain as the quick shade for those large pieces. I discovered that you can take Newsh, add a typically lower quality of paint like Apple barrel black/brown, and a good amount of water to make a large batch of shade wash that lasts through the large terrain painting session. Slap it on, let it dry, then dry brush over all your areas you care about again. The big deal is the fact you can get a lot of product to use, without breaking the bank. Newsh is about $16 and we only need about a half teaspoon, paint is $1 and only a few drops of that, and water is free. That makes about the same amount of wash as a $6 pot.
I use paints from several different makers and here is what I found. I tested an assortment of hues, shades, and various metallics from different manufactures. I also don't paint minis as I build model kits and custom paint 3.75, 6, 8, and 12 inch action figures, and various transformers of different sizes and shapes. I hope my analysis can helps you all. **** INDIVIDUAL RESULTS MAY, CAN, AND WILL VARY. **** Turbo Dork paints work but a bit finicky. Vallejo paints work great for me. Scale Color paints don't take as well because of the matte finish they have. Green Stuff paints works BUT you have to make sure you use the right ones. Their fluorescent are magic but the others require a bit more trial and error. P3 Paints work very well. MSP by Reaper Minis works well. Army Paint work-ish. Just depends on which color spectrum you work with. No metallics work no matter who makes them. Paints blended for airbrushes don't work well.
I finally got a bottle of Newsh while driving 2300 miles across the US because I had to move. As soon as I stopped in Illinois, where I was gonna stop at a friend's house to visit (also decided to stop and check out Adepitcon,) the bottle went missing. When I went to take a shower, they said they already put some shampoo in the bathroom, and because I thought they were giving me some free shampoo I kinda neglected to read the label on it. Turns out they saw the Newsh bottle which had fallen out of one of my bags, and thought it was shampoo. Turns out Newsh does not work very well as a shampoo either. It did however help me make the grime in my hair look fantastic. So I assume it's a good weathering medium.
Incredible. Personally I love Monument Hobbies. What I would love to see would be1. a comparison to the GW medium. And 2. mixture of colors like a dark brown and a bright orange where you maybe lightly mix the colors where you can still see them each individually. Also I huge factor I think you didn’t mention is the smell. Streak and grime is amazing but extremely potent to work with. The fact this doesn’t have that hash smell should be highlighted.
Monument is such a good company and I live near them so its 1 day regular post. Their products, especially Transparent White for super easy OSL is perfect. No more chalky osl through an airbrush. Just smooth butter transitions.
Hello, mate. When you said about the transparent white; how exactly are you using it? I haven't had any joy from Pro-Acryl Transparents so far. Although, to be fair, I'm not exactly adventurous with trying different ways to use new (to me) products.
@@madMARTYNmarsh1981 I use to mainly for OSL (object source lighting). Paint a miniature normally, then use the transparent white with an airbrush on the spots you need to glow, like from a fire or laser or hot coils on a plasma gun. Then I use a thin ink consistency (or transparent color) to spray on the same spot when done. Blending with transparent white is super easy and even easier with airbrush. Basically its white but actually a workable consistency, not chalky and make blending any highlight super easy. I am sure it has more uses like filtering in sub reflections in Shadows too, but it shines when highlighting or filtering (glazing) on color easy.
Not something I have tried yet but Jason said in the trapped under plastic podcast that it can be used to learn/practice wet blending because of the long dry time. Looking forward to trying that.
I was hoping for an example of this as my first thought was to use it as a wet blending aid as that's the first thing I think of when I think of oil paints.
I absolutely love the mad geniuses we have in the painting sphere for miniature painting, this sounds like a dream because I do not in any way have another space where I can open up some fume producing paint, and add onto that a bunch of other chemicals that will make me lose that few brain cells I have left.
To be fair, in the quantities you use on miniatures, odorless thinners aren't likely to impact your remaining braincells unless you drink them. I only keep my oil and enamel use to a minimum because of my crippling brush licking habit.
i had one at home after wathcing and went and tried it with basing for ICe and Snow systems. Its made one of the best melting snow system and runs of like real melting snow. The bases where on a completly different level!!
I was super happy to see you do this video. Saw the original vid by monumental hobbies and was excited to see others test it. I'm pumped after seeing this to give it a go!
I did, and I used some of your ideas from this video on some of my death guard army. Between the vehicles and troops, Newish made doing grime and rust really simple. Appreciate everything you do. I have really tried to step up my drybrushing game since watching your vids.
Great Byron. I've been wanting to use oils/enamels for the look but my house has a hard rule of no harsh chemicals because of my kids. I only ever even use top coat when they are away at grandma's. This might be a game changer for even terrain. Much appreciated.
Thanks! I've had a bottle sitting around and not much of an idea of what to do with it. Now that I know that it won't reactivate, that really opens up the possibilities.
Phenomenal video, great product to get thru a terrain backlog as it is perfect through the airbrush for the Boarding Actions terrain. Some of my favorite colors from expirmenting are Pro Acryl Mahogany and Paynes Grey, GW Skrag Brown, GE Ratling Grime, Vallejo Black and Vallejo Iraqi Sand (great for adding dust to boots to blend in with a desert base), AK. Waffen Red Brown, AK Mint Green (weathering bronze)
YES. Short sleeves on lab coats so you aren't dipping them into hazardous chemicals while you work. Sometimes you're using long thick gloves. It seems fingering is highly effective. That airbrush segment was incredible. I wasn't sold on other people's videos of Newsh until I saw that.
Thanks buddy, for the clarification and the kind words, I wanted to approach this both how I would, and encourage other people to 'play' in a scientific manner, it's how I have the most fun/learn the most (*make the most mess :))
NEWSH suggestion: Inspired by my prior experiments working wet on a model and dropping-in contrast or water to feather a transition: you drop pure newsh onto a model and then remove it to create transitions showing a lower layer of paint. The exact effect depends on how paint osmoses into newsh (Varies by brand's medium, additives and how intense the pigment is). Newsh blobs can make nice pock marks or organic wounds. I'm sure at large scale it could help with Avatar-esque lava weapons, but haven't tried it.
I used it just last night to cover sidewalks and roads on the 1' x 1' tiles that GW is selling for Legion Imperialis. I used the dominant color from the rest of the board, and it served nicely to tie in the road and sidewalk areas in to the rest. This is a huge bonus. I applied it with a cheap 1" wide flat-brush. I learned that I could thin it with water much more than I expected to be able to, which was an advantage because I had such a large area to cover. I found that I could just dip the brush in water and then load it up again with the newsh mix and keep going. This was much faster than having to stop and mix again. I used a sponge to remove it, which worked well given the size of the tiles. The sponge was nice because it did sop up some of the excess liquid, but not all, so I was also able to leave some on in flat areas which dried with a nice fade out. It stuck in very nicely in the cracks, crevices and mini-craters on the board too, and now they look like they have dirt that is the same red-oxide color as the rest of the board in them. A+ would use again.
Holy hell. I am getting a Genestealer army ready to paint, and those vehicles will be SO much easier with this airbrushed into the recesses with an accompanying rust color. Love it.
Finger Painting with Byron! Thanks for the video, this is the best experimenting with the product that I've seen. I had written it off, as I wasn't impressed by what others had done and the sponge removal, but your testing, the airbrush application, and the finger and cotton cloth gave way better results. Just another tool for the tool box.
I was able to use it like an enamel weathering wash and applied it fairly thick, and then used a soft damp brush to feather it away. Gave me a lot of control, and the longer dry time really let me work the color. It's also just such a nice glazing medium.
Excellent video. I want to try using Newsh in mixing my own washes. I usually mix my own using a thinner consisting of 50% water, 40% isopropyl, and 10% flow aid. Adding Newsh could result in the ability to wipe away and have less staining staining/filtering effect to better preserve highlights.
I tried it as a substitute for contrast in a slap chop test on a big monster model from Oathsworn. It worked fantastically for me, used bright bold colours and got main colours down in minutes. Can even blend two tones for a transition because of the drying time.
My favortie way to newsh so far has been using bold titatnium white with it and washing down blacks to get a nice recess highlight with minimal work involved. Used a stiff brush and stippling to work it in!
I like the way it works with Ratling Grime. Definitely work in smaller areas because if you let it dry for too long it becomes more difficult to subtract. Also make sure your paint layers have a chance to fully cure or you will pull up the paint. Also water makes it more flowy and you can definitely do some editing with a damp or wet brush to help disperse the wash. Haven't had success using just wet newsh to help disperse. Layering on top of news is pretty nice cause it helps the colors blend.
This is mind-blowing. I got a bottle of newsh last month and did some tests, came away underwhelmed, although I'd mostly tried using it with lighter colours. I'd seen somewhere that you only get 1-2 minutes before it dries, so I'm going to give it another go and try and replicate some of your tests. I'm particularly loving what you said about multiple layers- I love working with oils, but the big problem is as you say, you can't keep adding more layers without reactivating previous layers. This has got me inspired to try using this perhaps over oils too now.
I used the Lyla Mev trick of using it with string transparent paints as an EZPZ reductive glaze. I have been having a ton of fun with it for all the reasons you mentioned. Just so much less fuss as compared to oils fun to experiment with, fun to use as intended, adds value to all of your existing paints. What's not to love (well, the price point perhaps)
I use oil paints a lot, so I find this very interesting! One of the strengths of oil paints is that they can also be used for wet blending in their unthinned state (no toxic chemicals!). I imagine that Newsh could also be used for wet blending, but the properties would be way more fluid, compared to the heavy body consistency of unthinned oil paints. I often like to start out by applying an oil wash, and then wet blending an unthinned oil paint in on top of that to apply highlights before the oil wash is allowed to dry.
I just got a bottle of this that's on its way and I'm really looking forward to seeing what might be possible with it. While stronger colors really work well for the weathering through wiping off of raised areas, I'm curious to see if you can build up multiple subtle colors to make up a mottled appearance by sort of doing subtractive stippling with an old frayed brush or even other textured materials.
You can scrape things in hard to reach spots with the side of a wet flat brush and you dont give a hoot about, and it works well for nooks if you are painting assembled. Match the angle of the panel, scrape down at like a knife sharpening degree with a wet brush, the bristles basically stop on the geometry similar to how dry brushing works, but leaves the recesses nice n painted. You will need to re wet/ wipe the brush a lot. It will ruin your brush, but some things are worth being expendable.
I’ve managed to get a pin-washing like effect with thinner & flow improver. Maybe not as effective, but it was useful to get a small job done without getting out the oil paints.
I do wonder if the Newsh was.a key ingredient in that. I might try out black panel looking with black liquitex ink with/without Newsh and see what happens
@ArtisOpus exactly 😀 it's a tip I got from lincoln over at paintonplastic. Comes in super handy for many other things too, like when using weathering pencils or pigments
Awesome product! So unique. Amazing show off of it too Byron! I wonder if you can use drybrushing as a reductive technique to remove it. Ie, use an old, clean drybrush to remove the paint. Leaving it in the recesses. No need to use oils anymore!
Would love to see newsh plasma glows. Currently use white oils for this and intrigued to see how it works. Also would love to see whole model application on a figure and see how it works like old faithful SG...
I have used Newsh with great results as a retarder medium for wet blending! I mix in a small dab to the paints I am blending and it increases the open time so they blend more like oil paints.
I just picked up a bottle yesterday. I was going to see what happens when you dilute it with different stuff. Water, thinner, flow improver, Tamiya X-20a thinner, contrast medium, Pro Acryl glaze and wash medium, matt medium. See if you can get different effects.
Comming here with some of my past experiences with AK Interactive enamel washes (Streaking Grime and all) my word of advice is DO NOT use cotton buds if You can help it. It will ALWAYS eventually leave fluff behing which is very annoying. As Byron - use cotton cloth. T-shirts for a more light application, more fluffy socks for heavy removal - very usefull for large flat surface action or terrain. I found out that packaging foam also works really nice for wiping and it's basically free. It will work great for DIY terrain as You will not have to worry about it acting strange with foams. It will work great with metallics. You can paint a whole Ad-mech army in a weekend by just priming it silver from a can. Pick-out some other colors. Apply this, wipe wipe and You have a squad done in like 1 hour. One more nice application that I used in my past with DIY mediums like this - mix it wth a little of dry pigment - apply on areas where You wan't heavy wrathering - tank tracks, boots, building foundations, etc. Then wipe. It will give You a nice dusty finish with sediment left in cracks just as You would expect from dirt and mud.
About to try a Stormdrake Guard with this stuff. Laying down a light grey then coming back with black/dark grey and newsh. Fingers crossed it looks good after. Inspired by your experimentation here.
I’ve had decent results with high pigment stuff like inks and flow improver with newsh to do pretty close to pin washes, though you have to stick a bunch of varnishes on first as flow improver + Newsh chews through even multiple layers of cured paint
I have found nothing beats a dedicated panel liner or Ink, especially at the price point of those products and how few different colors you actually need of them, mix that with the reductive techniques to shade those tones of ink or panel liner and you have very simple to achieve weathering with a very high ceiling of what you can do from there.
I tried it with Fluo paints for Necro rib cages. It came out better than I thought but definitely think fluorescent colors are too weak for this product. It was quick though. Good seeing you at LVO too my friend!
This looks really promising. Some great effects on the test panel. I would like to see it used on a selection of minis though. The Taro panel is perfect to show off a product like this at its best. We need something that puts it through its paces a bit more! I'd like to see it used with greens for moss effects and a white for snow and white water effects. Maybe try a gore mix as well? At the moment the only obvious downside Vs oil wash is the cost. You can get a selection of oil paints and a bottle of spirits for less than the cost of one bottle of Newsh.
Try it with little dots of newsh+colors all over a broad surface like the side of a tank, then with a wide brush moist with newsh m as ke downward strokes to blend the colors out into a rainy weathering.
im working on cranking through a big Sigmar army thats just very bright contrast painting everything, and then i was planning on a two step shade (brown soft shading using medium thinned contrast and then black almost panel lining with either Nuln Gloss or oil) and this looks like its worth some experimenting. Loving the idea i can skip a bunch of varnish steps needed to protect the paint or assist the surface tension. theres a lot of small Skirmish game stuff that id love to knock out with contrast paint bright & light then use 1-2 layers of this to bring down. or perhaps as another tool to go after Contrast plus matte Medium Looking forward to a tool that doesnt require respirators and purchasing a whole new paint range
Thank you Byron! I’ve wanted to push myself with painting techniques and oils have been on my hit list. Now I can give this a go as a step in the right direction. I have some terrain I’ve just made which is going to be a disused promethium tank and I’m going to make it a dirty grimy bronze/copper. I wonder if Newsh would work with Nihilakh Oxide?
Like I said, this is actually a must-buy for me. I cannot use oils but it looks like it gets ~70% done of what you can do with oils. Would like to see some tests on a mini. Maybe this will go well with slapchop and you can do something like zenithal - newsh with shadow colour - wipe - layer midtone on wiped surfaces - drybrush highlights?
@@yerushalaimnehereset Unless he is allergic to linseed/safflowe oil, then I would presume OP assumes that usage of white spirits is necessary. I use oils I do not really use white spirits.
this is really really tempting because I ve had two bottles of streaking grime explode in storage today.. what an fn mess! this will be easier to manage and be less trouble too! worth the dollars...
Do you keep the white seal on all ur pro acryl? Or was that a new bottle you opened?? I tossed mine out and now wonder if I should've reapplied them in-between long breaks🤔 5:37
I like to cut slits in the small end of the makeup sponge like a big paint brush. Makes it easier to get in the details and tight spots during removal. With that being said I'm looking for an old tee shirt to try like you did. I haven't experimented yet but I keep having a feeling like this could help with OSL somehow.
Ooooh, i bet you could do flames really well with this. Dry brush blends over the top, newsh blends in the crevices Something like Yellow into orange into red into black dry brush Whit into yellow into orange into red newsh reductive wash (transparent paints? Florescents?)
It works really good for speed paints / contrast and wet blending between different ones as it increases the drying time considerably. You should test that out.
I tend to throw on a thinned contrast wash and then wick away the high areas to keep my highlights this stuff looks like a quicker safer way to do this without the risks of coffee staining the mini defo need to get some to try!
Wet blending is definitely something to test, but a bunch of other people suggested it. Here’s something off the wall - could you mix this with liquid green stuff and use it for gap filling? If you can easily wipe it off and it doesn’t smear, you could work the putty into small cracks and wipe off the excess. Might be less work than mixing and thinning milliput.
Using it with pure whites and fluoros for hot spots. Wrap a a small piece of cotton tightly around a lolly stick to get into the tight harder to reach areas with a flat surface that wont drain the recesses
Excited for this with OSL and also white pin lining for glowing sources as you could control the bleed much better than with oil washes for that purpose. Like this would rock for plasma coils - I’d love to see an updated plasma coil scenery done with this! Gives a lot of extra options where geometry makes dry brushing more difficult. Loving you can use the same paints as drybrushing too, making the fades etc much easier to do.
I've had this idea of painting ice daemons for a while now, likely a Chaos Daemon warband but the new T'au Kroot look really cool for this as well, in my mind I've wanted a white skin color with deep dark blue shades, I've not figured out how I would do it but it looks like this thing can do the trick. Some combination of Newsh, dark blue ink and gloss varnish will probably lead to the look I want.
Quick question, do you ever plan to make a brush like the Raphael 8408, not the normal 8404 brushes that are popular. Longer, a bit thinner, perfect for texturing or sharp thin lines? I dig your brushes and use them for everything except that one function. Sharp, thin, dozens/hundreds of lines on horses, fur, or cross hatching texturing.
Hi Byron, I couldn’t find the test square you used with the spiral bit, do you happen to have a direct link? And as a follow on, do you know if they sell the STL for it at all? (Mostly asking in case it’s beneficial for you if I follow a link from you)
If this product makes acrylic paint behave like oil paint, I’d love to see a video on wet blending with it. It really should be a game change there. Should allow for quick and smooth blends. Next video please!!!!
One option i havent seen used yet is using a thinned newsh mix to paint something that you want to blend seamlessly. The guys at Monument Hobbys said it was practical but have never showed it in a video that I know of. Would like to see what you made of that.. I would try it myself but I havent been able to get any Newsh... all sold out.
Wondering if you could use it with dry pigments to color match your bases with your grime? Probably similar to contrast and inks, it would take a certain ratio.
I think cosmetic cotton pads could work as removal tools - the square ones that come on a giant roll - they are more durable than a paper towel, but do not live any lint behind - think of them as dry glasses/screen wipes, just with no cleaning solution soaked through. You can get rolls of like 500 of them for pennies
So, as soon as i can get my hands on this i am going to try doing a recess glow using newsh, bold white and then Fluro to get the glow only in teh cracks for example on the terminator in librarian armour!
I wonder if Army Painter Speedpaint 1.0 would be better with this than GW contrast? because of it's reactivation property, you could use that to your advantage to help with the oil wash property
I'm wanting to try doing newsh as a drop of paint sorta stippled on the surface and dragged downwards, as a way to do water damage effects. It being non-reactive after about an hour means I won't have to seal between colors if I want to give the damage a lot of depth!
Might be interesting to use with powdered pigments. Grind up various colors of chalk (ball mill?) and brush on the then wipe away. There is a specific brand of floor polish that is pure acrylic (brand name may vary based on country) which has been used with similar results.
i already ordered it, im gonna try it out as soon i have it in my hands xD i plan to go for turquise for my brass and copper weathering, i would definitly do streaking grime style with it, and how well is the blending between two colors with newsh, could it help with blending due to its retarding properties... ill comment here further when i have results
I've had a terrible experience with my Artis Opus Series S brushes a couple of them have basically lost all of their bristles, is there someone I should raise this with before I go get new ones? I've been using them for around 6 months for about 4 hours a week.
Are they your main brushes buddy? If my maths is correct you're getting 100hours out of them which is pretty good for a main brush which is getting solid traffic. What sizes are you using? We always recommend stepping up if possible, more volume: more durability: more life expectancy. Using a bigger brush for heavy tasks will also dramatically extent the life of your smaller detail brushes, too.
@@ArtisOpusThey are my main brush the size 1 was the first to go the size 0 is basically balled so I'm trying to do almost everything now with a size 2 until I can buy some new brushes, Suprised they shouldn't last longer my Windsor brushes lasted well over a year and are still fairly usable now although ive relegated them to metalics only.
We want your NEWSH findings/suggestions, did we miss anything? Prizes for the best 2 :).
Newsh ROW + UK/EU: elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/paints-hobby-and-scenery-by-manufacturer/monument-hobbies/newesh-acrylic-waethering-medium
Newsh USA (from the makers): monumenthobbies.com/collections/paint-mediums
Our Brushes: store.artis-opus.com/
Taro Modelmaker (the testing square): www.taromodelmaker.com/
Pete's INCREDIBLE fancy tank Newsh use: ruclips.net/video/eM4inrqvdlc/видео.html
Useful info from the viewers (Thank You!):
@hoopla1403
I’ve had decent results with high pigment stuff like inks and flow improver with newsh to do pretty close to pin washes, though you have to stick a bunch of varnishes on first as flow improver + Newsh chews through even multiple layers of cured paint
Couple of things I have learned trying out different things:
1. The type of brush you use can really change what type of effect you get when pulling things around.
a. If you use a really stiff brush, you get very distinct lines as if rust water is always running down that path.
b. If you use a soft brush, you get more of large soft area effect like something is seeping out over an area.
2. Make sure the base paint you are applying the newish mixture to on the model has dried for an extended period before working with it. I have pulled up the base paint when wiping the newish mixture away with soft cloth even though the base paint had been dried to the touch for several minutes.
3. Don't limit yourself to just traditional rust and oil colors to weather with it, use of other colors create cool effects. For example:
a. With florescent paints (I used the ProAcrl ones), you can put it around a rivet or band on a tank and then smear it down to make it look like toxic sludge is leaking out
b. The effect of moss or lichen growing on something because steady water flow can be created by a combination of blues and greens
4. To get a realistic effect, pay close attention to direction you are wiping away or pulling away newish mixture. You don't want to have it flowing upwards against gravity when pulling out of a recess to create streaking. When wiping away you will still have very faint lines in most cases, so you don't want to have lines going in all sorts of directions and instead want to have a general consisent direction (typically in the direction of motion for the model).
Excellent tips. Thank you for sharing them.
I watched a few Newish videos before this. This is the first one that actually makes sense to me.
Thanks Byron!
Our pleasure buddy, too much discussion of the name, and not enough lab-coats? 😅
@@ArtisOpus You forgot the lab glases 😁
This is legit the most exciting hobby video I've seen all year
You can do this with watercolor. Also it is always removable, which may be an issue or a bonus depending on the use case. It also dries much faster than 45min (its dry, but you can still reactivate it). I guess you would use it quite late in the process or maybe varnish over it to continue painting. It is an interesting oil/enamel replacement that noone has covered yet because.. it doesn't come from a miniature paint brand? (I guess)
@@joel6376 I would imagine the coverage for watercolour on miniatures would be pretty weak, eh?
@@ItchaBoi like most paints, the cheap ones have terrible coverage.
@@ItchaBoi No, watercolor has differing coverage depending on its pigment, which for good products is either clearly marked on the tube or available via the manufactures datasheet. This is basically the same as mini paint, except mini paint with bad coverage is considered "bad" and good coverage considered "good" when in reality it is the pigment that determines the level of coverage you will get. Yellow, which is known for being bad in mini painting world mostly uses transparent pigment, which is why mini paint coverage is god awful. Artist yellow is hit and miss as well, but this is explained via markings on the tube (opaque/semi opaque/transparent) that relate to the pigment used.
That was the best video review I've seen for newsh. Everyone else's have been very samey but you tried different tools techniques and even stress tested it. Great video dude
Pro acryl continues to work hard to bring the hobby world products we actually want to use regularly. I adore those guys.
Fantastic video thank you! I’d got some Newsh already but didn’t know/hadn’t got round to experimenting. Your video inspired me to try similar with my taro panels.
I’ve also found an awesome use of it is as a masking agent. I painted up a panel as normal, put a thick “blob” of newsh in the middle, let it mostly dry, then did a wash all round it. Once the wash dried, I rubbed the newsh away and the borders where surface tension was higher left an amazing effect. I’m using it to look like fire reflection / damage on a terrain diorama. Give it a go!
That's very cool, love it! Thanks buddy - enjoy your panels!
Products like this, and reviews like this, really bring some excitement into the hobby that I think everyone can really be a part of that makes this hobby even better. Thanks for the review, makes me want to find out some ways to use it myself.
Our pleasure, buddy, there's less new things these days, so we really enjoyed ourselves here, enjoy! :)
@@ArtisOpus Fully concur with the above. With so much click-bait now and everyone trying to out-due each other, it's really nice to have a down-to-earth video with inspiring ideas that don't cost $500+ to implement as well as costing $$$ to have a room full of tools and endless time. Thank you for considering the average WH hobbyist!
Spectacular video!! Finally someone who thinks like I do. Scientist more than a creative type, however I needed more to be able to properly create the effects for my model RC hobby. This video perfectly marries the two! Thank you. I loved the scientific approach to realize the creative outcome through trial and error, testing and retesting. Brilliant!! Finally someone who gets it and can explain it in an attainable and easily understood method.
Loved the video Byron!
I’ve had Newsh for about a month now and I absolutely love it for my terrain as the quick shade for those large pieces.
I discovered that you can take Newsh, add a typically lower quality of paint like Apple barrel black/brown, and a good amount of water to make a large batch of shade wash that lasts through the large terrain painting session. Slap it on, let it dry, then dry brush over all your areas you care about again. The big deal is the fact you can get a lot of product to use, without breaking the bank. Newsh is about $16 and we only need about a half teaspoon, paint is $1 and only a few drops of that, and water is free. That makes about the same amount of wash as a $6 pot.
I use paints from several different makers and here is what I found.
I tested an assortment of hues, shades, and various metallics from different manufactures.
I also don't paint minis as I build model kits and custom paint 3.75, 6, 8, and 12 inch action figures, and various transformers of different sizes and shapes. I hope my analysis can helps you all.
**** INDIVIDUAL RESULTS MAY, CAN, AND WILL VARY. ****
Turbo Dork paints work but a bit finicky.
Vallejo paints work great for me.
Scale Color paints don't take as well because of the matte finish they have.
Green Stuff paints works BUT you have to make sure you use the right ones. Their fluorescent are magic but the others require a bit more trial and error.
P3 Paints work very well.
MSP by Reaper Minis works well.
Army Paint work-ish. Just depends on which color spectrum you work with.
No metallics work no matter who makes them.
Paints blended for airbrushes don't work well.
Old army painter or new army painter?
@@br42 My old Army Painter paint works better than the new formula they got going on
I finally got a bottle of Newsh while driving 2300 miles across the US because I had to move. As soon as I stopped in Illinois, where I was gonna stop at a friend's house to visit (also decided to stop and check out Adepitcon,) the bottle went missing. When I went to take a shower, they said they already put some shampoo in the bathroom, and because I thought they were giving me some free shampoo I kinda neglected to read the label on it. Turns out they saw the Newsh bottle which had fallen out of one of my bags, and thought it was shampoo. Turns out Newsh does not work very well as a shampoo either. It did however help me make the grime in my hair look fantastic. So I assume it's a good weathering medium.
Incredible. Personally I love Monument Hobbies.
What I would love to see would be1. a comparison to the GW medium. And 2. mixture of colors like a dark brown and a bright orange where you maybe lightly mix the colors where you can still see them each individually.
Also I huge factor I think you didn’t mention is the smell. Streak and grime is amazing but extremely potent to work with. The fact this doesn’t have that hash smell should be highlighted.
Monument is such a good company and I live near them so its 1 day regular post. Their products, especially Transparent White for super easy OSL is perfect. No more chalky osl through an airbrush. Just smooth butter transitions.
They're very involved in and patient with their product design and testing, our type of peeps :)
Hello, mate.
When you said about the transparent white; how exactly are you using it? I haven't had any joy from Pro-Acryl Transparents so far. Although, to be fair, I'm not exactly adventurous with trying different ways to use new (to me) products.
@@madMARTYNmarsh1981 I use to mainly for OSL (object source lighting).
Paint a miniature normally, then use the transparent white with an airbrush on the spots you need to glow, like from a fire or laser or hot coils on a plasma gun.
Then I use a thin ink consistency (or transparent color) to spray on the same spot when done. Blending with transparent white is super easy and even easier with airbrush.
Basically its white but actually a workable consistency, not chalky and make blending any highlight super easy.
I am sure it has more uses like filtering in sub reflections in Shadows too, but it shines when highlighting or filtering (glazing) on color easy.
Thanks for this video, I was on the fence with this product but I now see its potential 😎👌
Not something I have tried yet but Jason said in the trapped under plastic podcast that it can be used to learn/practice wet blending because of the long dry time. Looking forward to trying that.
I was hoping for an example of this as my first thought was to use it as a wet blending aid as that's the first thing I think of when I think of oil paints.
Thanks , as an acrylic paint using military modeller this is a very interesting product. Thanks for the helpful review . M
Perfect! Our pleasure :)
Love this stuff!! Bought it and I wasn’t sure if it was going to be any good. It definitely exceeded my expectations. Awesome video too Byron!
I can't disagree with you one bit, gold-trim on it would go a very long way!
I absolutely love the mad geniuses we have in the painting sphere for miniature painting, this sounds like a dream because I do not in any way have another space where I can open up some fume producing paint, and add onto that a bunch of other chemicals that will make me lose that few brain cells I have left.
To be fair, in the quantities you use on miniatures, odorless thinners aren't likely to impact your remaining braincells unless you drink them. I only keep my oil and enamel use to a minimum because of my crippling brush licking habit.
i had one at home after wathcing and went and tried it with basing for ICe and Snow systems. Its made one of the best melting snow system and runs of like real melting snow. The bases where on a completly different level!!
I was super happy to see you do this video. Saw the original vid by monumental hobbies and was excited to see others test it. I'm pumped after seeing this to give it a go!
Did you join the ranks of experimenters? Hope it went well :)
I did, and I used some of your ideas from this video on some of my death guard army. Between the vehicles and troops, Newish made doing grime and rust really simple. Appreciate everything you do. I have really tried to step up my drybrushing game since watching your vids.
Great Byron. I've been wanting to use oils/enamels for the look but my house has a hard rule of no harsh chemicals because of my kids. I only ever even use top coat when they are away at grandma's. This might be a game changer for even terrain. Much appreciated.
The Newsh delay drying medium gives you some more time to paint certain areas over the surface while building up on the recess.
Awesome medium! 👍
Thanks! I've had a bottle sitting around and not much of an idea of what to do with it. Now that I know that it won't reactivate, that really opens up the possibilities.
Phenomenal video, great product to get thru a terrain backlog as it is perfect through the airbrush for the Boarding Actions terrain.
Some of my favorite colors from expirmenting are Pro Acryl Mahogany and Paynes Grey, GW Skrag Brown, GE Ratling Grime, Vallejo Black and Vallejo Iraqi Sand (great for adding dust to boots to blend in with a desert base), AK. Waffen Red Brown, AK Mint Green (weathering bronze)
YES. Short sleeves on lab coats so you aren't dipping them into hazardous chemicals while you work. Sometimes you're using long thick gloves.
It seems fingering is highly effective. That airbrush segment was incredible. I wasn't sold on other people's videos of Newsh until I saw that.
Thanks buddy, for the clarification and the kind words, I wanted to approach this both how I would, and encourage other people to 'play' in a scientific manner, it's how I have the most fun/learn the most (*make the most mess :))
NEWSH suggestion: Inspired by my prior experiments working wet on a model and dropping-in contrast or water to feather a transition: you drop pure newsh onto a model and then remove it to create transitions showing a lower layer of paint. The exact effect depends on how paint osmoses into newsh (Varies by brand's medium, additives and how intense the pigment is). Newsh blobs can make nice pock marks or organic wounds. I'm sure at large scale it could help with Avatar-esque lava weapons, but haven't tried it.
I used it just last night to cover sidewalks and roads on the 1' x 1' tiles that GW is selling for Legion Imperialis. I used the dominant color from the rest of the board, and it served nicely to tie in the road and sidewalk areas in to the rest. This is a huge bonus. I applied it with a cheap 1" wide flat-brush. I learned that I could thin it with water much more than I expected to be able to, which was an advantage because I had such a large area to cover. I found that I could just dip the brush in water and then load it up again with the newsh mix and keep going. This was much faster than having to stop and mix again.
I used a sponge to remove it, which worked well given the size of the tiles. The sponge was nice because it did sop up some of the excess liquid, but not all, so I was also able to leave some on in flat areas which dried with a nice fade out. It stuck in very nicely in the cracks, crevices and mini-craters on the board too, and now they look like they have dirt that is the same red-oxide color as the rest of the board in them.
A+ would use again.
Holy hell. I am getting a Genestealer army ready to paint, and those vehicles will be SO much easier with this airbrushed into the recesses with an accompanying rust color. Love it.
Finger Painting with Byron!
Thanks for the video, this is the best experimenting with the product that I've seen. I had written it off, as I wasn't impressed by what others had done and the sponge removal, but your testing, the airbrush application, and the finger and cotton cloth gave way better results. Just another tool for the tool box.
I was able to use it like an enamel weathering wash and applied it fairly thick, and then used a soft damp brush to feather it away. Gave me a lot of control, and the longer dry time really let me work the color. It's also just such a nice glazing medium.
Great production in this, much fun and engaging
Excellent video. I want to try using Newsh in mixing my own washes. I usually mix my own using a thinner consisting of 50% water, 40% isopropyl, and 10% flow aid. Adding Newsh could result in the ability to wipe away and have less staining staining/filtering effect to better preserve highlights.
I tried it as a substitute for contrast in a slap chop test on a big monster model from Oathsworn. It worked fantastically for me, used bright bold colours and got main colours down in minutes. Can even blend two tones for a transition because of the drying time.
I was wondering how useful it would be in that slapchop contrast style. you have any pics?
My favortie way to newsh so far has been using bold titatnium white with it and washing down blacks to get a nice recess highlight with minimal work involved. Used a stiff brush and stippling to work it in!
If you want to see how newsh behaves with contrast paints Lyla Mev has a really solid video going over how easy it is to blend using them.
I like the way it works with Ratling Grime. Definitely work in smaller areas because if you let it dry for too long it becomes more difficult to subtract. Also make sure your paint layers have a chance to fully cure or you will pull up the paint. Also water makes it more flowy and you can definitely do some editing with a damp or wet brush to help disperse the wash. Haven't had success using just wet newsh to help disperse. Layering on top of news is pretty nice cause it helps the colors blend.
This is mind-blowing. I got a bottle of newsh last month and did some tests, came away underwhelmed, although I'd mostly tried using it with lighter colours. I'd seen somewhere that you only get 1-2 minutes before it dries, so I'm going to give it another go and try and replicate some of your tests. I'm particularly loving what you said about multiple layers- I love working with oils, but the big problem is as you say, you can't keep adding more layers without reactivating previous layers. This has got me inspired to try using this perhaps over oils too now.
Don't be afraid to mix in more NEWSH for longer open times. It's all about the amount you use.
@@MonumentHobbies since posting this I painted a miniature relying on newsh, and absolutely loved it!
Awesome! @@surrealroad
Look at Monument jumping in here to help, heroes!
I used the Lyla Mev trick of using it with string transparent paints as an EZPZ reductive glaze.
I have been having a ton of fun with it for all the reasons you mentioned. Just so much less fuss as compared to oils fun to experiment with, fun to use as intended, adds value to all of your existing paints. What's not to love (well, the price point perhaps)
I use oil paints a lot, so I find this very interesting! One of the strengths of oil paints is that they can also be used for wet blending in their unthinned state (no toxic chemicals!). I imagine that Newsh could also be used for wet blending, but the properties would be way more fluid, compared to the heavy body consistency of unthinned oil paints. I often like to start out by applying an oil wash, and then wet blending an unthinned oil paint in on top of that to apply highlights before the oil wash is allowed to dry.
I just got a bottle of this that's on its way and I'm really looking forward to seeing what might be possible with it. While stronger colors really work well for the weathering through wiping off of raised areas, I'm curious to see if you can build up multiple subtle colors to make up a mottled appearance by sort of doing subtractive stippling with an old frayed brush or even other textured materials.
You can scrape things in hard to reach spots with the side of a wet flat brush and you dont give a hoot about, and it works well for nooks if you are painting assembled. Match the angle of the panel, scrape down at like a knife sharpening degree with a wet brush, the bristles basically stop on the geometry similar to how dry brushing works, but leaves the recesses nice n painted. You will need to re wet/ wipe the brush a lot. It will ruin your brush, but some things are worth being expendable.
I’ve managed to get a pin-washing like effect with thinner & flow improver. Maybe not as effective, but it was useful to get a small job done without getting out the oil paints.
I do wonder if the Newsh was.a key ingredient in that. I might try out black panel looking with black liquitex ink with/without Newsh and see what happens
You may have to revisit this topic once we've all got our bottles of Newsh, I think Element Games is going to be busy posting out in the UK!
Super helpful thank you! What about using a tiny amount of dish soap to help it pin wash?
This could work actually, because you would need so little it wouldn't dilute the medium's properties. You're welcome 😊
@ArtisOpus exactly 😀 it's a tip I got from lincoln over at paintonplastic. Comes in super handy for many other things too, like when using weathering pencils or pigments
This is such a cool tool! Definitely getting that
Wow.. Wiping it off after the airbrush. Oofff that looks good, and so fast.
Lazy magic is the best kind of magic! :)
Yeah, that made me literally gasp out loud :'D
Awesome product! So unique. Amazing show off of it too Byron!
I wonder if you can use drybrushing as a reductive technique to remove it.
Ie, use an old, clean drybrush to remove the paint. Leaving it in the recesses.
No need to use oils anymore!
Bet you could dude, it's a forgiving product :)
Keep fighting the good fight, nice to see you back slaying armies at crazy speed!
I wish I had gotten more of the display cabinets I can’t wait!
:D they will have full support ongoing once they're launched for retail
Would love to see newsh plasma glows. Currently use white oils for this and intrigued to see how it works. Also would love to see whole model application on a figure and see how it works like old faithful SG...
I have used Newsh with great results as a retarder medium for wet blending! I mix in a small dab to the paints I am blending and it increases the open time so they blend more like oil paints.
I just picked up a bottle yesterday. I was going to see what happens when you dilute it with different stuff. Water, thinner, flow improver, Tamiya X-20a thinner, contrast medium, Pro Acryl glaze and wash medium, matt medium. See if you can get different effects.
Especially curious about the flow improver and Tamiya X-20a thinner. See if you can make a true pin wash.
Comming here with some of my past experiences with AK Interactive enamel washes (Streaking Grime and all) my word of advice is DO NOT use cotton buds if You can help it. It will ALWAYS eventually leave fluff behing which is very annoying.
As Byron - use cotton cloth. T-shirts for a more light application, more fluffy socks for heavy removal - very usefull for large flat surface action or terrain. I found out that packaging foam also works really nice for wiping and it's basically free.
It will work great for DIY terrain as You will not have to worry about it acting strange with foams.
It will work great with metallics. You can paint a whole Ad-mech army in a weekend by just priming it silver from a can. Pick-out some other colors. Apply this, wipe wipe and You have a squad done in like 1 hour.
One more nice application that I used in my past with DIY mediums like this - mix it wth a little of dry pigment - apply on areas where You wan't heavy wrathering - tank tracks, boots, building foundations, etc. Then wipe. It will give You a nice dusty finish with sediment left in cracks just as You would expect from dirt and mud.
About to try a Stormdrake Guard with this stuff. Laying down a light grey then coming back with black/dark grey and newsh. Fingers crossed it looks good after. Inspired by your experimentation here.
This is going to be great when it comes to painting terrain.
I’ve had decent results with high pigment stuff like inks and flow improver with newsh to do pretty close to pin washes, though you have to stick a bunch of varnishes on first as flow improver + Newsh chews through even multiple layers of cured paint
Lovely info! Popping this in the sticky
I have found nothing beats a dedicated panel liner or Ink, especially at the price point of those products and how few different colors you actually need of them, mix that with the reductive techniques to shade those tones of ink or panel liner and you have very simple to achieve weathering with a very high ceiling of what you can do from there.
I tried it with Fluo paints for Necro rib cages. It came out better than I thought but definitely think fluorescent colors are too weak for this product. It was quick though. Good seeing you at LVO too my friend!
This looks really promising. Some great effects on the test panel. I would like to see it used on a selection of minis though. The Taro panel is perfect to show off a product like this at its best. We need something that puts it through its paces a bit more!
I'd like to see it used with greens for moss effects and a white for snow and white water effects. Maybe try a gore mix as well?
At the moment the only obvious downside Vs oil wash is the cost. You can get a selection of oil paints and a bottle of spirits for less than the cost of one bottle of Newsh.
Try it with little dots of newsh+colors all over a broad surface like the side of a tank, then with a wide brush moist with newsh m as ke downward strokes to blend the colors out into a rainy weathering.
Really keen to try this with the Warpaints Fanatic verdigris!!! Thanks for the video
im working on cranking through a big Sigmar army thats just very bright contrast painting everything, and then i was planning on a two step shade (brown soft shading using medium thinned contrast and then black almost panel lining with either Nuln Gloss or oil) and this looks like its worth some experimenting. Loving the idea i can skip a bunch of varnish steps needed to protect the paint or assist the surface tension.
theres a lot of small Skirmish game stuff that id love to knock out with contrast paint bright & light then use 1-2 layers of this to bring down. or perhaps as another tool to go after Contrast plus matte Medium
Looking forward to a tool that doesnt require respirators and purchasing a whole new paint range
Thank you Byron! I’ve wanted to push myself with painting techniques and oils have been on my hit list. Now I can give this a go as a step in the right direction. I have some terrain I’ve just made which is going to be a disused promethium tank and I’m going to make it a dirty grimy bronze/copper. I wonder if Newsh would work with Nihilakh Oxide?
Instructions unclear; Series D stuck in nose
Like I said, this is actually a must-buy for me. I cannot use oils but it looks like it gets ~70% done of what you can do with oils. Would like to see some tests on a mini. Maybe this will go well with slapchop and you can do something like zenithal - newsh with shadow colour - wipe - layer midtone on wiped surfaces - drybrush highlights?
Why can you not use oils?
@@yerushalaimnehereset the thinners are harmful to my dog
@@yerushalaimnehereset Unless he is allergic to linseed/safflowe oil, then I would presume OP assumes that usage of white spirits is necessary. I use oils I do not really use white spirits.
this is really really tempting because I ve had two bottles of streaking grime explode in storage today.. what an fn mess! this will be easier to manage and be less trouble too! worth the dollars...
Oh Jesus, that must have done some damage :|
@@ArtisOpus it did! I did want to ask if you would be trying this on a model for some content at any point. Necrons.. some deathwing etc.
looks awesome, ordered some right away!
Do you keep the white seal on all ur pro acryl? Or was that a new bottle you opened?? I tossed mine out and now wonder if I should've reapplied them in-between long breaks🤔 5:37
I toss them buddy, it was just a new one :)
I like to cut slits in the small end of the makeup sponge like a big paint brush. Makes it easier to get in the details and tight spots during removal. With that being said I'm looking for an old tee shirt to try like you did. I haven't experimented yet but I keep having a feeling like this could help with OSL somehow.
Great video! Thx - that goes on the buylist
Ooooh, i bet you could do flames really well with this. Dry brush blends over the top, newsh blends in the crevices
Something like
Yellow into orange into red into black dry brush
Whit into yellow into orange into red newsh reductive wash (transparent paints? Florescents?)
I might not publicly paint like this, but I did enjoy the video and learned a few things. 👍
:) maybe some secret R&R when you're not pushing high level!
It works really good for speed paints / contrast and wet blending between different ones as it increases the drying time considerably. You should test that out.
Hi.
One of the strong points of oils is the wet-on-wet blending for smoother transitions.
Could you do something with that?
This has been asked a lot, we'll have to see :)
I was hoping for an example of using this as a wet blending aid as that's the first thing I think of when I think of oil paints.
This has been overwhelmingly requested, and in hindsight seems very obvious! 😅
Will be interesting to use for dot filtering give the results on the panel.
O_o big-brain suggestion here, love it!
finally i will be able to use the Vallejo acrylic weathering paints the way i thought they would work
I tend to throw on a thinned contrast wash and then wick away the high areas to keep my highlights this stuff looks like a quicker safer way to do this without the risks of coffee staining the mini defo need to get some to try!
Wet blending is definitely something to test, but a bunch of other people suggested it.
Here’s something off the wall - could you mix this with liquid green stuff and use it for gap filling? If you can easily wipe it off and it doesn’t smear, you could work the putty into small cracks and wipe off the excess. Might be less work than mixing and thinning milliput.
Using it with pure whites and fluoros for hot spots. Wrap a a small piece of cotton tightly around a lolly stick to get into the tight harder to reach areas with a flat surface that wont drain the recesses
Excited for this with OSL and also white pin lining for glowing sources as you could control the bleed much better than with oil washes for that purpose. Like this would rock for plasma coils - I’d love to see an updated plasma coil scenery done with this! Gives a lot of extra options where geometry makes dry brushing more difficult. Loving you can use the same paints as drybrushing too, making the fades etc much easier to do.
I've found if you pre-load the lines with water you can get a bit of a "run" with the newsh+ink combo
I've had this idea of painting ice daemons for a while now, likely a Chaos Daemon warband but the new T'au Kroot look really cool for this as well, in my mind I've wanted a white skin color with deep dark blue shades, I've not figured out how I would do it but it looks like this thing can do the trick. Some combination of Newsh, dark blue ink and gloss varnish will probably lead to the look I want.
Quick question, do you ever plan to make a brush like the Raphael 8408, not the normal 8404 brushes that are popular. Longer, a bit thinner, perfect for texturing or sharp thin lines?
I dig your brushes and use them for everything except that one function. Sharp, thin, dozens/hundreds of lines on horses, fur, or cross hatching texturing.
Cool as always. 🖌
Hi Byron, I couldn’t find the test square you used with the spiral bit, do you happen to have a direct link? And as a follow on, do you know if they sell the STL for it at all? (Mostly asking in case it’s beneficial for you if I follow a link from you)
Game changer!!!!
If this product makes acrylic paint behave like oil paint, I’d love to see a video on wet blending with it. It really should be a game change there. Should allow for quick and smooth blends. Next video please!!!!
One option i havent seen used yet is using a thinned newsh mix to paint something that you want to blend seamlessly. The guys at Monument Hobbys said it was practical but have never showed it in a video that I know of. Would like to see what you made of that.. I would try it myself but I havent been able to get any Newsh... all sold out.
Wondering if you could use it with dry pigments to color match your bases with your grime? Probably similar to contrast and inks, it would take a certain ratio.
I think cosmetic cotton pads could work as removal tools - the square ones that come on a giant roll - they are more durable than a paper towel, but do not live any lint behind - think of them as dry glasses/screen wipes, just with no cleaning solution soaked through.
You can get rolls of like 500 of them for pennies
Great video, does it dry to a Matte finish or eggshell/satin ?
Matte :) most of Pro Acryl's stuff is
Great video. I use 2/3 drops of Newsh with 1 drop of paint and use the retardent properties to give me more time to wet blend.
So, as soon as i can get my hands on this i am going to try doing a recess glow using newsh, bold white and then Fluro to get the glow only in teh cracks for example on the terminator in librarian armour!
I wonder if Army Painter Speedpaint 1.0 would be better with this than GW contrast? because of it's reactivation property, you could use that to your advantage to help with the oil wash property
Anything with a long drying time always makes me think about wet blending, so I'm curious to see what kind of effects could be achieved with that.
I'm wanting to try doing newsh as a drop of paint sorta stippled on the surface and dragged downwards, as a way to do water damage effects. It being non-reactive after about an hour means I won't have to seal between colors if I want to give the damage a lot of depth!
Might be interesting to use with powdered pigments. Grind up various colors of chalk (ball mill?) and brush on the then wipe away. There is a specific brand of floor polish that is pure acrylic (brand name may vary based on country) which has been used with similar results.
i already ordered it, im gonna try it out as soon i have it in my hands xD
i plan to go for turquise for my brass and copper weathering,
i would definitly do streaking grime style with it,
and how well is the blending between two colors with newsh, could it help with blending due to its retarding properties...
ill comment here further when i have results
I've had a terrible experience with my Artis Opus Series S brushes a couple of them have basically lost all of their bristles, is there someone I should raise this with before I go get new ones? I've been using them for around 6 months for about 4 hours a week.
Are they your main brushes buddy? If my maths is correct you're getting 100hours out of them which is pretty good for a main brush which is getting solid traffic. What sizes are you using? We always recommend stepping up if possible, more volume: more durability: more life expectancy.
Using a bigger brush for heavy tasks will also dramatically extent the life of your smaller detail brushes, too.
@@ArtisOpusThey are my main brush the size 1 was the first to go the size 0 is basically balled so I'm trying to do almost everything now with a size 2 until I can buy some new brushes, Suprised they shouldn't last longer my Windsor brushes lasted well over a year and are still fairly usable now although ive relegated them to metalics only.