I prefer the 2:1 vs 2:1 method which relies on = opposing forces rather than the hope of friction. It also puts the bowline handle at the 2:1 inferface where I can tie my mainsheet to. I can then tighten the strap from a forward position by pulling mainsheet tail or I can loosen strap while hiking with my foot. One less bowline is an added benefit in that your strap has more range of depth. All this to say, your videos are awesome and we the community are grateful for you content.
at the 1:28 mark, I run the line IN FRONT of the starboard bowline (between the bowline and the metal strap) to create more friction so that the line doesn't slip easily. I found I needed 5 feet of line in order to have enough to create the bowline handle
Fad Skates Might be. I'm not entirely sure though as I don't own a topper myself but from what I've seen the attachment to the back should be about the same.
For reaching legs and downwind legs, it is preferable to have the strap as tight as possible or at least "fairly tight" to get better connection with the boat and allow yourself to come in easily, also keeping you out of the water/higher up to prevent contacting waves. On reaches, you can be hiking, but sailing the boat extremely flat, more than upwind, so this is important. Upwind, a looser strap allows you to get more outboard and thus better leverage against the sail forces, if you have the fitness to maintain a position there (very demanding). So this method is mostly for people who prefer a looser strap upwind but would like to tighten it for other legs. If you already sail with a reasonably tight strap, it's probably ok as it is. It's certainly worth experimentation.
I prefer the 2:1 vs 2:1 method which relies on = opposing forces rather than the hope of friction. It also puts the bowline handle at the 2:1 inferface where I can tie my mainsheet to. I can then tighten the strap from a forward position by pulling mainsheet tail or I can loosen strap while hiking with my foot. One less bowline is an added benefit in that your strap has more range of depth.
All this to say, your videos are awesome and we the community are grateful for you content.
Great points and thanks for watching!
at the 1:28 mark, I run the line IN FRONT of the starboard bowline (between the bowline and the metal strap) to create more friction so that the line doesn't slip easily. I found I needed 5 feet of line in order to have enough to create the bowline handle
🤔
Thanks!
I'm going to use this method in all japan high school tourment!
We hope it worked out nicely for you!
How long is this
Laser Hiking Strap Adjuster Line is 3 Ft. Thank you for watching!
Can this work on a topper
Fad Skates Might be. I'm not entirely sure though as I don't own a topper myself but from what I've seen the attachment to the back should be about the same.
We have not tried it on a topper but I don't see why not
wich is the purpose of that method?
Why could you want to adjust the hiking strap?
Thanks!
For reaching legs and downwind legs, it is preferable to have the strap as tight as possible or at least "fairly tight" to get better connection with the boat and allow yourself to come in easily, also keeping you out of the water/higher up to prevent contacting waves. On reaches, you can be hiking, but sailing the boat extremely flat, more than upwind, so this is important. Upwind, a looser strap allows you to get more outboard and thus better leverage against the sail forces, if you have the fitness to maintain a position there (very demanding). So this method is mostly for people who prefer a looser strap upwind but would like to tighten it for other legs. If you already sail with a reasonably tight strap, it's probably ok as it is. It's certainly worth experimentation.