When i roller painted my boat,after prep.i applied unthinned leyland gloss with a 4 inch foam roller and foam jenny brush the jenny is a flat foam brush essential for removing the bubbles i can honestly say i could see my face in the finnish.Good video.Cheers.Ronnie.
When you roller the paint on follow up with a foam brush(once called a jenny brush)give one stroke of the foam brush to smooth away the bubbles,keep doing this for each coat and you will see the difference,i used to paint my boats topside using this method and you could see your face in the finish.
Roller in one hand, hair dryer in one hand, bubbles disappear. I think acetone makes a better reducer. I agree with the comments using foam rollers. Put on a couple of coats, let it dry a couple of days, wet sand about 1/2 of the orange peel out, put another coat on let dry a couple of days, wet sand 1/2 of the orange peel. Another coat keep doing till you are happy. Don’t rush the paint needs to be really cured/dried before sanding. I did use rustoleum paint on a little Toyota truck I painted, but have also used tractor paint.
very cool...i have many years of wet sanding experience ,so being able to sand completely flat without the worry of going through clear is soooo simple... i would probably start with 400,then 800 then 1500 then 2000 ...then buff with medium grit using wool...then fine using foam...
Ok this looks WAY better than I thought it would - the color is even growing on me a bit. Should look great with those dark wheels; get that next video up!!
On it! There’s going to be a TON of wet sanding but we’re anxious for the results. We’ve got some decals for it as well. If it turns out half as good as we hope, it should be pretty cool for a track beater!
Did this on a blazer with rustoleum and corvette primer roller selection and consistency of paint is key I did a 50/50 with mineral spirits. Called it a 10 foot paint job never sanded it. What you learn from mixing while rolling the primer will get you more comfortable setting up paint for a cheap harbor freight spray gun. Seemed wet sanding the primer was a majority of the work. Good sandable primer and cheap paint just around the same price point.
Good job guys. I use a product called Penetrol from a company named Flood in my rustoleum enamels while I have been repainting my vintage pickup truck. It will work with any oil based paint. I even use it with my primers. Rolling or brushing it works great. It goes on smoother and levels out awesome with virtually no bubbles or fisheyes.
I do this all the time with tracker paint and a foam roller is a must and I use no hardner and it just fine for me I paint all my dirt track cars like that and it holds up well
Haha, yes sir! This weekend will be our first ever time on track (auto-x doesn’t count, duh) so better something like this than the Cayman or the widebody build! If you guys are still headed to GridLife, enjoy! Wish we could have made it to both events!
Sadly I don't think we're going to make GridLife. Pete's away on his honeymoon and we're going to Turn14 the following weekend for their big Open House and Car Meet and being away two weekends in a row isn't really an option for me if I want to stay married :P
3:45 Bubbles! Will be alot of sanding if you don't do *this trick:* Hold in the other hand a heat gun or hair dryer. It will pop the bubbles as you go.
Yeah, i was going to suggest this. When using plastic resin a heatgun or blow torch (hovered at a safe distance) heats it up and allows the bubbles to be released. Unsure about paint flammability, so yeah. Heat gun is best.
I’m thinking about painting my 1984 gmc dually with tractor paint I have a decent gun and compressor palm d/a sander . Etc I’m just scared you guys motivated me to go through with it , thanks keep up the good work.
Ha! Do it! After everything that happened my only advice is to make sure you have enough coverage. Had we done a few more coats, and not burned through wet sanding, it would have been mint!
I paint a lot of crafts, cabinets, and furniture and there's a trick to avoid bubbles for a beautiful finish. It's the wet roller/dry roller technique. Roll on the paint, pause in horror at the bubbles, say a prayer to Saint Sherwin-Williams, then *slowly* (and VERY gently) roll over that area again with a dry roller. The bubbles will disappear. With paint that thin, it will be self-leveling and you'll get as close as you can get to a spray finish without a spray gun. This works like a charm for thick chalk paint. I have no doubt that this will work great here. The one thing I don't know is how long your dry roller will last once it gets damp with the hardener in the paint. Will this stuff stay liquid for a day if you seal it tight with plastic or does it cure anyway? You might want to plan on going through a few of those hotdog rollers if you're doing several coats. If your dry brush starts making more bubbles, you're either rolling too hard, rolling way too fast, or it's gotten too wet.
A little late for you now... search "roll and tip" boat painting procedure. The "tip" refers to lightly following the roller with the tip of a 3-4" wide paint brush to even out the roller marks. orange peel, and kill the bubbles. Easiest with two people, but you can do it alone. No sanding required.
@@diastoleny Pettit Paint is the best, IMO. It is a 'one part' paint, but they offer an 'activator' for it that gives better surface hardness. And the paint really needs to be thinned (they have a brushing thinner (and a spray thinner)) by 5-10% for best flow-out.
I think the rest of my 91 e350 is a good candidate for this. I painted the roof already with aluminized reflective roofing paint (with a white wash brush) and it looks pretty cool. Definitely a few degrees cooler inside and should seal the rust up pretty good.
primer is a must can't skip it and more importantly clean it off before you start even if its jut with denatured alcohol still have to clean it then you definitely need to reduce it id say use mineral spirits and add a catalyst like what majic sell my vintage fridge with it and the results are amazing i used prepped with denatured alcohol a terry cloth then i reduced my paint 4 parts paint 3 parts reducer and one part catalyst rolled it on then tipped it for roll on paint this is another must it pops those bubbles almost immediately they use this method on boats it was the primary way to paint boats in the 80s and before and alot of budget projects still use this method try this next time and try majic instead its got a much richer color in the paint so you don't need to use as much Rolling And tipping the paint
If you out enough coats on and wet sand it, yes. We didn’t have quite enough paint on there so when we went to sand it we burned through just as we were getting a nice finish.
I used Interlux Brightsides polyurethane on my camping trailer, using the roll & tip method. No need to dilute and the 1st coat covers well. I used 2 coats of white. I used a firm 9" foam roller and foam brush to "tip", i.e. pop the bubbles. No runs on the vertical surfaces, except at corners where a little extra paint was pressed off the roller, but I got those w/ the brush. The paint is self-leveling and works especially well on horizontal surfaces like the top. I started on my 65 Dodge Dart, painting the roof white (between trim) while refreshing the trailer roof. It came out shiny. Also painted the trunk inside w/ light yellow (mixed 2 colors). I used a sprayer there since intricate surfaces you can't roll or brush. When I get to the outer body, I may spray it since seems faster. Doesn't matter how you get the paint on since it self-levels. Just need to insure no bubbles and not too thick to run. I repaired one car after an accident w/ base-clear spray and would never do that again. Solid only for me, since easy to repair future scratches. Clear-coat doesn't last long in the CA sun and looks horrid when the clear starts failing, especially w/ dark base colors.
A good example of Rolling on Paint.... is a video called: Roll & Tip Method painting a boat... You roll on the paint, then "Tipping" it with a hand brush, feathering out the paint to take out the bubbles... NEVER let the roller get dry... keep paint on it...
Good job brother(s) ! Roller ? Why not ! I have compressor but you give me an idea - I need to paint my project car and I want to cut all extra costs as I can (for a number of reasons - it came out a way much more I expected, in the start that was just a fixing of a car that I bought for good price and it turned out that more or less nothing was ok on car exept engine and transmission) ... I did paint a lots with a roller - not cars but many things, from furniture to bridge construction parts ! Result is good for sure - yes a bit ruff for car but after good polish Im sure it will shine like glass ! I just think on this - should I spray clear coat or not ? I will research a bit more and decide... OK, as I sad good job, thanks for sharing this interesting video @Boost Brothers Garage :) Wish you luck in your project(s) and waiting for some more cool videos ! Cheers, Uroš
No bullshit, but there is nothing wrong with this type of paints. Here's an example for anyone who is interested... So John Deere uses a killer enamel product that is as you would expect, super tough. The stuff I used is called "Blitz Black." It is Deere's equivalent to satin 'Hot Rod black'. I completely refinished my personal e36 track prepped chassis sedan- using this paint along with their accompanying primer and the finish was near perfect. Extremely durable indeed, like you said, it is designed to sit outside in the elements, take abuse, and stand up to the brutal rigors of the agricultural industry. The gallons were literally something like $30 each! I used an HVLP on mine and didn't roll it, did the necessary metal repairs, wet sanding, used quality fillers like Duraglass, and Thin Ice from US Chem. The entire body job and respray was insanely cheap and the finish many years later is still excellent. As long as the prep work including the essential wet sanding is done correctly, you can expect great results. As far as your roller job, if you wet sand that peel and even take it a step further and cut/ buff the car and it'll transform it to something that's really pretty nice. Since you painted a track car like I did it doesn't need to be show quality, but there is no harm in having it look 'presentable.' There is nothing wrong with Rusto. Its fantastic paint thats readily available, predictable in its application, and inexpensive but it will never be as tough as the agricultural stuff. Figured I'd share my experience as well with these type of paints for anyone else who may be considering using a product like this to refinish they're chassis. Thanks for sharing your story fellas! 👍😎
looks great. always wondered if orange peel would help a tad bit with aerodynamics. like a golf ball the dimples hold a pocket of air so the other air buffs up against the pockets of air and don't actually touch the ball. with this being a race car a wind tunnel test before final sand and buff might of showed interesting results.
Its gonna turn out even better after wet sand and polish...Yeah...I knew you where in trouble on that 1st coat after seeing all those bubbles. I just finished a rustoleum rolled on paint job on my Foxbody race car. I used Rustoleum Topside Marine paint in Battleship gray mixed with Flood Penetrol paint additive to thin it out. The Flood Penetrol extends the drying time, helping the paint to lay flat before drying. I mixed 3 parts paint, one part Penetrol. Took 2 coats to get good coverage. You can see what my car looked like before on the video on my channel and then see the after on the channels background pic....enjoy!
@@BoostBrothersGarage Yeah, Penetrol is cheap and Lowes or HD has it, like $10 a pint or so. I've used it a bit but am going to do more experiments with it. I wanna see if bondo and bondo glass sticks to it, it's a good cover of rust. Check it out. And thanks for the vid on this, I"m thinking of using the Majic tractor paint too, seems inexpensive and worth using. I think using a sprayer would have been cheaper for you, the airless option is hilarious but interesting to see if it works. The HF HVLP guns are like $10 or so if u have a compressor, I may try that route. I like the striving for low cost practical car solutions! The Tractor paint is nontoxic when dry as well and made from Soybeans so that's pretty cool. Carry on and good luck w the Porsche!
Moral of the story for me is put it on thick. You can always sand out the imperfections. Had we done a few more coats and were able to wet sand it smooth it would have come out really nice.
Ya know i had a strange feeling it would look like an orange. Not cause I know anything about painting, but just cause I has a strange feeling.. lol. But it looks even so far. After the sanding Ill bet it will look more than presentable. Ill tune in to the next episode when I can.
I did my old BMW e30 weekend warrior this way. Rustoleum gloss white is very close to alpine white. There are many schools of thought on this controversial procedure. There is no right or wrong way because you are not supposed to do it according to professional autobody guys.
id think abit thicker...........and DRY BRUSH after you roll on the paint! I used this simple technique for professional sign making: base layer. Wide, soft (slightly damp) brush....slow...long strokes. Do consider.
@@BoostBrothersGarage Don´t you think a brush would have prevented the bubbles and allowed for easier sanding? Do you have any experience with brushes?
@@daugustus all the research i did said to use the foam rollers and foam brushes, i didn't try a traditional brush. The bubbles were much better after no longer using a thinner / reducer.
How is it holding up? Just bought a Nissan Micra with.. Very bad paint fading to say the least 🤣 Not got the money or a paint booth to get a proper spray job done, so been tempted to try this
@@BoostBrothersGarage Defo will do! 1 question though, how did you get into any tight spots the roller couldn't fit into? My main worry for my car is where you can mount roof racks, it's a super tight area 'n I'm not too sure how the hell I'd prep it, let alone paint it.
Bahahaha, don’t we all. I have a 914 shell that will be getting introduced to the channel at some point. When I am drunk (most the time) I lean towards a bridge ported NA rotary
Don't use foam rollers. They always cause bubbles. Use a nap roller and that paint looked too thin right out of the can. Why not just use house paint? I painted my shed w/ interior paint and it's lasted over 10 years. What do professionals use on race cars and truck bodies? Probably enamel out of a can like Rustoleum or some professional stuff. Have you ever painted a room? That's the way it should look.
3:35 after rolling on a section (2' x 2') take a (oil) hand brush and lightly brush the paint back and forth... feather it.. pop the bubbles... this is why I only hand paint.... no roller...
3:07 At this point, I wished you'd told your viewers it is so important to wipe the car down with a "TACK" rag... it gets all the fine dust off the car... Worth the money
How about that! I'm looking into painting my Porsche 917/10 Can Am Car Replica with a brush or roller also. I am going to a Sherwin Williams store tomorrow to talk to them about how I should approach this. The color will be Blood Orange aka Tangerine just like the original STP car. OR, it may be Porsche Grand Prix white by using a gloss white from Lowes! ruclips.net/video/4bluALGWeBo/видео.html Actually, if I do Blood "Orange", the Orange Peal might make it appropriate.
@@BoostBrothersGarage After watching your second video, I think I will roll and brush 1 foot square areas and then go with the best one. In 1971, they cared about winning races, not show trophies.
Yeah, would have been interesting to see how the sprayer did. Didn’t want to deal with the overspray though, plus that thing sounds like a jackhammer lol
Boost Brothers Garage y’all have an air compressor and harbor freight has gravity fed spray guns as low as $10. Would have needed a respirator and a lot more taping off. Excited to see how well it shines up with a wet sand.
Yeah, we can’t paint in our shop though, as it’s a shared commercial and we don’t have a booth. We kept trying to figure out a way to do it, but all options were bad ones. Figured this was worth a shot, hopefully it shines up ok!
I mean you technically can call that a Porsche. But to Porsche owners that car doesn’t exist. Because it’s fantastic because it’s a Porsche. But it’s also crap as a performance car. It falls under a type I like to call fantacrap.
Hahaha, I mean I guess you have half a point. However, the 944 chassis has incredible potential and can easily outrun newer 911’s when properly built. At a fraction of the price. This one though, it’s a dog, for now.
Boost Brothers Garage you throw out words like potential and built. And that is my point. Stock this car couldn’t hold its own against a fiery. You can build a gremlin to do 9’s. Build this car with modern tech, yea it can compete with modern cars. But so can every other car you build with speed in mind. Does the 944 look good? Of course. If car designs (exterior looks) always equaled speed, then the car world would be way different today. That being said, ls swap, or awd conversion on this car would make it a monster. Just don’t restore it. It’s not worth it. 10k on a good motor and trans would make this car bad ass. You spend 5k restoring the stock engine and this car isn’t worth pissing in the gas tank.
Agreed. My only point is comparing it to modern cars isn’t apples to apples due to the massive disparity in cost. The 2.85 stroker I am building for the widebody car will make 400+ wheel all day long, for way less than 10k. That power in a 2500lb car with full suspension and 275/315 f/r tires is going to throw down some serious laps. Either way, this little slow poke works great as a budget track car to hone the driving skills before stepping into something more serious. Happy New Year!
Boost Brothers Garage agreed. The cost to make that car really Really fucking good isn’t cheap, but the smiles per dollar is way better than buying a new car. If I had a 100k budget I wouldn’t buy a new 911, it would be a older one and worth the remaining 70k I would do upgrades, oh and buy like 5 other cars.
![[#2024MAMA] G-DRAGON - 무제(Untitled, 2014)+POWER+HOME SWEET HOME+뱅뱅뱅+FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ox29z5Nf1Uk/mqdefault.jpg)
When i roller painted my boat,after prep.i applied unthinned leyland gloss with a 4 inch foam roller and foam jenny brush the jenny is a flat foam brush essential for removing the bubbles
i can honestly say i could see my face in the finnish.Good video.Cheers.Ronnie.
Leyland gloss paint as in the same leyland trade paint we use on walls?.. this intrigues me
When you roller the paint on follow up with a foam brush(once called a jenny brush)give one stroke of the foam brush to smooth away the bubbles,keep doing this for each coat and you will see the difference,i used to paint my boats topside using this method and you could see your face in the finish.
Thanks for the tip!
Roller in one hand, hair dryer in one hand, bubbles disappear.
I think acetone makes a better reducer. I agree with the comments using foam rollers.
Put on a couple of coats, let it dry a couple of days, wet sand about 1/2 of the orange peel out, put another coat on let dry a couple of days, wet sand 1/2 of the orange peel. Another coat keep doing till you are happy.
Don’t rush the paint needs to be really cured/dried before sanding.
I did use rustoleum paint on a little Toyota truck I painted, but have also used tractor paint.
very cool...i have many years of wet sanding experience ,so being able to sand completely flat without the worry of going through clear is soooo simple... i would probably start with 400,then 800 then 1500 then 2000 ...then buff with medium grit using wool...then fine using foam...
Ok this looks WAY better than I thought it would - the color is even growing on me a bit. Should look great with those dark wheels; get that next video up!!
On it! There’s going to be a TON of wet sanding but we’re anxious for the results. We’ve got some decals for it as well. If it turns out half as good as we hope, it should be pretty cool for a track beater!
Well I'll be darned! That is not looking bad at all! Can't wait to see the finished product.
Thanks! It turned out decent, but we learned a lot and could do a pretty solid job next time
Did this on a blazer with rustoleum and corvette primer roller selection and consistency of paint is key I did a 50/50 with mineral spirits. Called it a 10 foot paint job never sanded it. What you learn from mixing while rolling the primer will get you more comfortable setting up paint for a cheap harbor freight spray gun. Seemed wet sanding the primer was a majority of the work. Good sandable primer and cheap paint just around the same price point.
Good job guys. I use a product called Penetrol from a company named Flood in my rustoleum enamels while I have been repainting my vintage pickup truck. It will work with any oil based paint. I even use it with my primers. Rolling or brushing it works great. It goes on smoother and levels out awesome with virtually no bubbles or fisheyes.
Thanks for the info!!! We will have to give that a shot next time, and there will definitely be a next time!
@@BoostBrothersGarage As a retired construction painter, I definitely second the Penetrol additive. Painting machine parts it really helps.
How much did you put in for a mix
Ive only used it when painting houses, does it help with potential roller lines etc?
A little bit of Flood Penetrol helps. It thins the paint, dries a bit slower, reduces the brush marks.
I do this all the time with tracker paint and a foam roller is a must and I use no hardner and it just fine for me I paint all my dirt track cars like that and it holds up well
Thanks for sharing lads
Sure thing! Thanks for watching and commenting
Wow, that actually looks promising! Stoked to see how it looks after sanding and buffing. Kudos for having the balls to try this.
Thanks DP! Bravery by way of a tiny budget...
Haha, for a race car it seems like a worthwhile experiment. Better to spend your money on go-fast bits. Can I get an amen?
Haha, yes sir! This weekend will be our first ever time on track (auto-x doesn’t count, duh) so better something like this than the Cayman or the widebody build!
If you guys are still headed to GridLife, enjoy! Wish we could have made it to both events!
Sadly I don't think we're going to make GridLife. Pete's away on his honeymoon and we're going to Turn14 the following weekend for their big Open House and Car Meet and being away two weekends in a row isn't really an option for me if I want to stay married :P
Good luck with the first track outing, looking forward to seeing you guys rip some German VTEC.
Turn out a lot better, then I thought, nice job !!!
Thanks Frank!
3:45 Bubbles! Will be alot of sanding if you don't do *this trick:* Hold in the other hand a heat gun or hair dryer. It will pop the bubbles as you go.
Thanks for the tip!
Yeah, i was going to suggest this. When using plastic resin a heatgun or blow torch (hovered at a safe distance) heats it up and allows the bubbles to be released. Unsure about paint flammability, so yeah. Heat gun is best.
I’m thinking about painting my 1984 gmc dually with tractor paint I have a decent gun and compressor palm d/a sander . Etc I’m just scared you guys motivated me to go through with it , thanks keep up the good work.
Ha! Do it! After everything that happened my only advice is to make sure you have enough coverage. Had we done a few more coats, and not burned through wet sanding, it would have been mint!
I paint a lot of crafts, cabinets, and furniture and there's a trick to avoid bubbles for a beautiful finish. It's the wet roller/dry roller technique. Roll on the paint, pause in horror at the bubbles, say a prayer to Saint Sherwin-Williams, then *slowly* (and VERY gently) roll over that area again with a dry roller. The bubbles will disappear. With paint that thin, it will be self-leveling and you'll get as close as you can get to a spray finish without a spray gun. This works like a charm for thick chalk paint. I have no doubt that this will work great here.
The one thing I don't know is how long your dry roller will last once it gets damp with the hardener in the paint. Will this stuff stay liquid for a day if you seal it tight with plastic or does it cure anyway? You might want to plan on going through a few of those hotdog rollers if you're doing several coats.
If your dry brush starts making more bubbles, you're either rolling too hard, rolling way too fast, or it's gotten too wet.
A little late for you now... search "roll and tip" boat painting procedure. The "tip" refers to lightly following the roller with the tip of a 3-4" wide paint brush to even out the roller marks. orange peel, and kill the bubbles. Easiest with two people, but you can do it alone. No sanding required.
I tried it with best brushes, marine paint and crazy prep on a 17' skiff last year. I couldn't pull it off. That tipping is a true skill.
@@diastoleny Pettit Paint is the best, IMO. It is a 'one part' paint, but they offer an 'activator' for it that gives better surface hardness. And the paint really needs to be thinned (they have a brushing thinner (and a spray thinner)) by 5-10% for best flow-out.
I think the rest of my 91 e350 is a good candidate for this. I painted the roof already with aluminized reflective roofing paint (with a white wash brush) and it looks pretty cool. Definitely a few degrees cooler inside and should seal the rust up pretty good.
Now that's how you paint a race car, nice!
Haha, thanks Joe!
primer is a must can't skip it and more importantly clean it off before you start even if its jut with denatured alcohol still have to clean it then you definitely need to reduce it id say use mineral spirits and add a catalyst like what majic sell my vintage fridge with it and the results are amazing i used prepped with denatured alcohol a terry cloth then i reduced my paint 4 parts paint 3 parts reducer and one part catalyst rolled it on then tipped it for roll on paint this is another must it pops those bubbles almost immediately they use this method on boats it was the primary way to paint boats in the 80s and before and alot of budget projects still use this method try this next time and try majic instead its got a much richer color in the paint so you don't need to use as much Rolling And tipping the paint
Can you get a good finish with a foam roller as good as a spray paint job.
If you out enough coats on and wet sand it, yes. We didn’t have quite enough paint on there so when we went to sand it we burned through just as we were getting a nice finish.
I used Interlux Brightsides polyurethane on my camping trailer, using the roll & tip method. No need to dilute and the 1st coat covers well. I used 2 coats of white. I used a firm 9" foam roller and foam brush to "tip", i.e. pop the bubbles. No runs on the vertical surfaces, except at corners where a little extra paint was pressed off the roller, but I got those w/ the brush. The paint is self-leveling and works especially well on horizontal surfaces like the top. I started on my 65 Dodge Dart, painting the roof white (between trim) while refreshing the trailer roof. It came out shiny. Also painted the trunk inside w/ light yellow (mixed 2 colors). I used a sprayer there since intricate surfaces you can't roll or brush. When I get to the outer body, I may spray it since seems faster. Doesn't matter how you get the paint on since it self-levels. Just need to insure no bubbles and not too thick to run. I repaired one car after an accident w/ base-clear spray and would never do that again. Solid only for me, since easy to repair future scratches. Clear-coat doesn't last long in the CA sun and looks horrid when the clear starts failing, especially w/ dark base colors.
Awesome, thanks for the thorough write up!
Watching your video again !!!! Great, yeah !
A good example of Rolling on Paint....
is a video called:
Roll & Tip Method painting a boat...
You roll on the paint, then "Tipping" it
with a hand brush, feathering out the paint
to take out the bubbles... NEVER let the
roller get dry... keep paint on it...
Good job brother(s) ! Roller ? Why not ! I have compressor but you give me an idea - I need to paint my project car and I want to cut all extra costs as I can (for a number of reasons - it came out a way much more I expected, in the start that was just a fixing of a car that I bought for good price and it turned out that more or less nothing was ok on car exept engine and transmission) ... I did paint a lots with a roller - not cars but many things, from furniture to bridge construction parts ! Result is good for sure - yes a bit ruff for car but after good polish Im sure it will shine like glass ! I just think on this - should I spray clear coat or not ? I will research a bit more and decide... OK, as I sad good job, thanks for sharing this interesting video @Boost Brothers Garage :) Wish you luck in your project(s) and waiting for some more cool videos ! Cheers, Uroš
Thanks!!! Using a paint like Rustoleum or implement paint should be fine without clear. It shines really nice after polish and it’s UV resistant
@@BoostBrothersGarage Thats a great news ! Thank you very much for the tip ! You saved me thon of work and nice amount of cash too :) Cheers !!!
Next time you paint a bridge take your car to work and do it at lunch break.
The reducer is for spraying
Good for race car quality, will like to see after wet sanding. Nice job.
Starting on that tonight, fingers crossed!
No bullshit, but there is nothing wrong with this type of paints. Here's an example for anyone who is interested... So John Deere uses a killer enamel product that is as you would expect, super tough. The stuff I used is called "Blitz Black." It is Deere's equivalent to satin 'Hot Rod black'. I completely refinished my personal e36 track prepped chassis sedan- using this paint along with their accompanying primer and the finish was near perfect. Extremely durable indeed, like you said, it is designed to sit outside in the elements, take abuse, and stand up to the brutal rigors of the agricultural industry. The gallons were literally something like $30 each! I used an HVLP on mine and didn't roll it, did the necessary metal repairs, wet sanding, used quality fillers like Duraglass, and Thin Ice from US Chem. The entire body job and respray was insanely cheap and the finish many years later is still excellent. As long as the prep work including the essential wet sanding is done correctly, you can expect great results. As far as your roller job, if you wet sand that peel and even take it a step further and cut/ buff the car and it'll transform it to something that's really pretty nice. Since you painted a track car like I did it doesn't need to be show quality, but there is no harm in having it look 'presentable.' There is nothing wrong with Rusto. Its fantastic paint thats readily available, predictable in its application, and inexpensive but it will never be as tough as the agricultural stuff. Figured I'd share my experience as well with these type of paints for anyone else who may be considering using a product like this to refinish they're chassis. Thanks for sharing your story fellas! 👍😎
Thanks for your input, will certainly be helpful!
looks great.
always wondered if orange peel would help a tad bit with aerodynamics. like a golf ball the dimples hold a pocket of air so the other air buffs up against the pockets of air and don't actually touch the ball. with this being a race car a wind tunnel test before final sand and buff might of showed interesting results.
Would certainly be fun to do that test!
Heya- that tractor paint goes on great with a cheap Wagner Airless sprayer, pretty smooth and little overspray
We’ll have to go that route next time!
Its gonna turn out even better after wet sand and polish...Yeah...I knew you where in trouble on that 1st coat after seeing all those bubbles. I just finished a rustoleum rolled on paint job on my Foxbody race car. I used Rustoleum Topside Marine paint in Battleship gray mixed with Flood Penetrol paint additive to thin it out. The Flood Penetrol extends the drying time, helping the paint to lay flat before drying. I mixed 3 parts paint, one part Penetrol. Took 2 coats to get good coverage. You can see what my car looked like before on the video on my channel and then see the after on the channels background pic....enjoy!
Awesome, we’ll check it out!
@@BoostBrothersGarage Yeah, Penetrol is cheap and Lowes or HD has it, like $10 a pint or so. I've used it a bit but am going to do more experiments with it. I wanna see if bondo and bondo glass sticks to it, it's a good cover of rust. Check it out. And thanks for the vid on this, I"m thinking of using the Majic tractor paint too, seems inexpensive and worth using. I think using a sprayer would have been cheaper for you, the airless option is hilarious but interesting to see if it works. The HF HVLP guns are like $10 or so if u have a compressor, I may try that route. I like the striving for low cost practical car solutions! The Tractor paint is nontoxic when dry as well and made from Soybeans so that's pretty cool. Carry on and good luck w the Porsche!
Thanks for your input, I’ll give it a shot!
This is like painting a boat, (roll and tip)minus the tipping. I’ve been tossing around painting my pickup with the same paint I did my boat with.
Moral of the story for me is put it on thick. You can always sand out the imperfections. Had we done a few more coats and were able to wet sand it smooth it would have come out really nice.
cool video...did you sand entire first coat with 400 to level and remove all the mess from that first coat? thanks
Ya know i had a strange feeling it would look like an orange. Not cause I know anything about painting, but just cause I has a strange feeling.. lol. But it looks even so far. After the sanding Ill bet it will look more than presentable. Ill tune in to the next episode when I can.
Thanks James... I mean what can you expect when using a roller?! Ha
Ha damn doesn’t look half bad.
I did my old BMW e30 weekend warrior this way. Rustoleum gloss white is very close to alpine white. There are many schools of thought on this controversial procedure. There is no right or wrong way because you are not supposed to do it according to professional autobody guys.
I like your attitude!
Noticed you guys didn’t use primer. How well did this last? Wondering if I should primer first or just scuff and roll straight. Thanks dudes!
Held up great! If I do it again, and follow all the pointers in these comments, I think it could turn out way better than anyone could expect
Should be VERY interesting to see how it looks after sanding and buffing.
did you sand after the first coat? if so, what grit?
No, and I wouldn’t if I did it again. I would do about 4 coats, wet sand with 800 and then do 2-4 more coats and finish sand and buff.
do you think the same would apply to rustoleum paint as well if thats what you woulda chosen to use>?
I would think so yes. Check this out: www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html
Yea it is only self leveling if you use rustoleum paint but nice try.
Good job
Thanks!
Just watched a guy doing his bonnet and he used thinners or reducer and he had bubbles too.
Is it necessary to add primer paint?
Could you do this with a flat or satin Black?
id think abit thicker...........and DRY BRUSH after you roll on the paint! I used this simple technique for professional sign making: base layer. Wide, soft (slightly damp) brush....slow...long strokes. Do consider.
I like the beers in hand...beer Google's? perhaps?
but it looks quite nice.looking at your 2 nd video soon
Thanks! I’m happy with it for being a track rat!
Check out my rustoleum paint job. I used cheap spray gun.
I am about to decide to do just that on my car...I stick to the principle that sanding fixes everything...
Agreed! A couple more coats , a bit more sanding and it would have been mint!
@@BoostBrothersGarage Don´t you think a brush would have prevented the bubbles and allowed for easier sanding? Do you have any experience with brushes?
@@daugustus all the research i did said to use the foam rollers and foam brushes, i didn't try a traditional brush. The bubbles were much better after no longer using a thinner / reducer.
@@BoostBrothersGarage Yes, gonna be a nice ride...thanks!
How is it holding up? Just bought a Nissan Micra with.. Very bad paint fading to say the least 🤣 Not got the money or a paint booth to get a proper spray job done, so been tempted to try this
Held up great! Read through all these comments before attempting and you should be all set!
@@BoostBrothersGarage Defo will do! 1 question though, how did you get into any tight spots the roller couldn't fit into? My main worry for my car is where you can mount roof racks, it's a super tight area 'n I'm not too sure how the hell I'd prep it, let alone paint it.
yo dudes yeah ha it actually not to shabby looking
Thanks man! Hopefully it’s even better after sanding
is reducer the same as thinner?
Yeah
The instructions say to wait 4 days between coats to dry .
how do I skip the interminable commercial?
F. Its fraking cool
Thanks!
how is the over 2 years old paint?
Same as the day it was finished!
@@BoostBrothersGarage great; it's encouraging
Foam rollers will do this. Should have been a very short pile roller instead
thin to spray. thick to roll. I will be doing similar to this or just wrapping my 914 when it is time. Cars are made to be driven.
Makes perfect sense... What drivetrain will you be running in the 914?
When I am sober a big 4, when I am drunk a procharged 2 liter type IV...I like beer.
Bahahaha, don’t we all. I have a 914 shell that will be getting introduced to the channel at some point. When I am drunk (most the time) I lean towards a bridge ported NA rotary
I'll be heading up from KY to PGH, PA in early November in the Cayman. Might have to detour a little. I'll bring the beer.
Just let us know!
Don't use foam rollers. They always cause bubbles. Use a nap roller and that paint looked too thin right out of the can. Why not just use house paint? I painted my shed w/ interior paint and it's lasted over 10 years. What do professionals use on race cars and truck bodies? Probably enamel out of a can like Rustoleum or some professional stuff.
Have you ever painted a room? That's the way it should look.
3:35
after rolling on a section (2' x 2')
take a (oil) hand brush and lightly
brush the paint back and forth... feather it..
pop the bubbles...
this is why I only hand paint.... no roller...
Original coat wat too thin. It should have the consistency of cream, if you wanted to put in on that thin then tip it off with a china hair brush.
Appreciate the advice!
Does Lite Beer sponsor your video?
3:07
At this point, I wished you'd told your viewers
it is so important to wipe the car down with a "TACK"
rag... it gets all the fine dust off the car... Worth the money
How about that! I'm looking into painting my Porsche 917/10 Can Am Car Replica with a brush or roller also. I am going to a Sherwin Williams store tomorrow to talk to them about how I should approach this. The color will be Blood Orange aka Tangerine just like the original STP car. OR, it may be Porsche Grand Prix white by using a gloss white from Lowes! ruclips.net/video/4bluALGWeBo/видео.html Actually, if I do Blood "Orange", the Orange Peal might make it appropriate.
Sweet, what an awesome project!
@@BoostBrothersGarage After watching your second video, I think I will roll and brush 1 foot square areas and then go with the best one. In 1971, they cared about winning races, not show trophies.
Too bad you're 3.5 hours away. I'd give a hand wet sanding and buffing it!
Take a day off work, let’s do it!
Next time show the entire body of the vehicle in frame on occasion and especially at the end of the video. This was a huge mistake to not include.
5:21
Did you SAND before the second coat!!!
"HELLO !!!!!"
Did you wipe off the car with a "Tack" rag
to make sure the surface is CLEAN???
My first video watching... Zach is such a dick. Keep writing hard bud
7:44
ORANGE PEELING... YA THINK!!!!
Should have gone straight to the sprayer. Not bad though.
Yeah, would have been interesting to see how the sprayer did. Didn’t want to deal with the overspray though, plus that thing sounds like a jackhammer lol
Boost Brothers Garage y’all have an air compressor and harbor freight has gravity fed spray guns as low as $10. Would have needed a respirator and a lot more taping off. Excited to see how well it shines up with a wet sand.
Yeah, we can’t paint in our shop though, as it’s a shared commercial and we don’t have a booth. We kept trying to figure out a way to do it, but all options were bad ones. Figured this was worth a shot, hopefully it shines up ok!
The details are in the prep and upkeep. Method of application is not important
Definitely a lot of truth to that. Not quite that black and white but I’ll accept it hahaha
Part 2 👉 ruclips.net/video/ABn-xZ6Jiak/видео.html
need to roll and tip google it
painting a vehicle with a 1" diameter roller ????? your kidding, right ????
Very serious! You are supposed to use the foam roller instead of a normal nap.
Is that enamel or latex
Enamel
You should have rolled and tipped it, which is how boats are painted. You watched the wrong vids!
Wtf? Did you really think you would get a good paint job using a roller?
Turned out about how I expected it to. Could have been much nicer if I had put more coats on it. It’s a race car not a show car.
What a waste of time and money, you can get a gallon of single stage urethane for $100 bucks.
I mean you technically can call that a Porsche. But to Porsche owners that car doesn’t exist. Because it’s fantastic because it’s a Porsche. But it’s also crap as a performance car. It falls under a type I like to call fantacrap.
Hahaha, I mean I guess you have half a point. However, the 944 chassis has incredible potential and can easily outrun newer 911’s when properly built. At a fraction of the price. This one though, it’s a dog, for now.
Boost Brothers Garage you throw out words like potential and built. And that is my point. Stock this car couldn’t hold its own against a fiery. You can build a gremlin to do 9’s. Build this car with modern tech, yea it can compete with modern cars. But so can every other car you build with speed in mind. Does the 944 look good? Of course. If car designs (exterior looks) always equaled speed, then the car world would be way different today. That being said, ls swap, or awd conversion on this car would make it a monster. Just don’t restore it. It’s not worth it. 10k on a good motor and trans would make this car bad ass. You spend 5k restoring the stock engine and this car isn’t worth pissing in the gas tank.
Agreed. My only point is comparing it to modern cars isn’t apples to apples due to the massive disparity in cost. The 2.85 stroker I am building for the widebody car will make 400+ wheel all day long, for way less than 10k. That power in a 2500lb car with full suspension and 275/315 f/r tires is going to throw down some serious laps. Either way, this little slow poke works great as a budget track car to hone the driving skills before stepping into something more serious. Happy New Year!
Boost Brothers Garage agreed. The cost to make that car really Really fucking good isn’t cheap, but the smiles per dollar is way better than buying a new car. If I had a 100k budget I wouldn’t buy a new 911, it would be a older one and worth the remaining 70k I would do upgrades, oh and buy like 5 other cars.
@@ianholmen888 Ha, I'm with you. Except I think we missed the boat on cheap older 911's, unless you are cool with a 996.
Ruined a fucking car
You do realize paint sands off right? Keep your vulgar and moronic opinion to yourself if you can’t be constructive.
@@BoostBrothersGarage what, you couldn't afford to spend an extra 30 dollars yo buy single stage urethane?
Sure I could. Wasn’t the point of this video or experiment.