great video! i am 16 and learning automotive painting in my dad's shop here in brazil. here we use razor blades or the mirka sharkblade to remove runs.
Good stuff, if I catch a spot running in the booth I do the tape dab trick to try and save some severe sanding after. It leaves a spot but it’s easy to block after. Appreciate this video man!
A trick i use to make sure i get off every step of wet sanding grits out before moving up when cutting n buffing is using a diff color sharpie instead of powdered guide coat... find it makes less of a slushie mess and it actually stays on the clears surface
@@RefinishMedia just years of blindlessly wetsanding and not vetting out all the sanding marks from previous grits and seeing few scratches bere and there after buffimg and having redo sanding i thought there has to be a better more visual way of seeing removal of material on clear coat so i atarted usinf the powdered guide coat but doesnt sit well in these fime grits and moat washes off.... so i thought hmmm leme try somwthing that makes alot less mess and wouldnt wash off... so i grabed my body line marker and started marking panel let it dry a bit and have never looked back since...
You can just keep sanding with the glaze on there by stepping up in grits as it becomes more transparent.. Glaze easily sands with 800,1200,1500 in your final steps...
Great information, I am liking your recent videos and learning a lot. With luck, my first complete job will be in my home garage sometime in the spring. I have a question, not really addressed in this video but related: When there is a severe run or sag like you showed with the "heads" on the drips, I am assuming that extra thick 10-20 mils of clear actually ran down from where it was sprayed, just above the run (gravity.) Therefore, the area above a big run like that must be a lot thinner than the intended mils of coverage? When an experienced painter would see a run after a coat of clear, do you intentionally wait until it flashes and then go back and try to add another coat to the area immediately above the run so it will not end up as a thin spot, or will that just end up making more of a mess?
You got it. Letting it flash and applying an extra coat is a good trick to have a better chance of recovering the run. But being careful not to cause solvent pop by trapping excess solvents. If you’re using a slow reducer you shouldn’t have an isssue. We wanted to address that as well as addressing a tip using tape if your run is in your first coat of clear to remove the bulk of the run. Hopefully in future videos we can bring more context to these things. Thanks for watching!
I just subscribed, I'm gonna follow along your content. Looks pretty good. I have a question. Do you have a recommendation for a filtration oil air trap system that you would recommend
What are we! INFERIOR decorators 😂 with all these Sags and Curtains?? Great video Refinsh media! You are showing tricks of The Trade technology!! Cool for the next generation of Automotive Painters to have a place to see ALl The Tricks of The Trade!!! # Bling By String .
Have you ever heard there’s a difference in the shape of the materials between a hand block sand paper and disc sand paper same grit. The hand block paper has a pointy shape and disc paper has more of a rounded shape
It would be nice if 3M's genius engineers would print the grit the grit number all over the back of the paper so you know what the heck it is even with small pieces. Seems like a no brainer
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I've been fixing "Flow Meters" for a couple decades now using these very techniques..... Works
Awesome!
Thanks for that
great video! i am 16 and learning automotive painting in my dad's shop here in brazil. here we use razor blades or the mirka sharkblade to remove runs.
Awesome. It’s a good trick
Great video! Thank you!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching
Great job as always, very informative 👍👍👊👊
Thanks 👍
Good stuff, if I catch a spot running in the booth I do the tape dab trick to try and save some severe sanding after. It leaves a spot but it’s easy to block after. Appreciate this video man!
We wanted to add that but we didn’t have time. Good trick!
Great video! Thanks for the lesson. I have a run and I’m afraid to tackle it. 70 nova, on the front A pillar on the curve. Thick clear.
Don’t be scared just be diligent and stay on top of the run. You got it
Love the dog !!!
Thanks!
“December of 1984@ 😂 love it!
😂
A trick i use to make sure i get off every step of wet sanding grits out before moving up when cutting n buffing is using a diff color sharpie instead of powdered guide coat... find it makes less of a slushie mess and it actually stays on the clears surface
That’s interesting I’ve never seen that
@RefinishMedia works like a charm when the sharpie marks are gone so are the scratchs
Sweet. Where did you learn that one ? Or did you come up with it.
@@RefinishMedia just years of blindlessly wetsanding and not vetting out all the sanding marks from previous grits and seeing few scratches bere and there after buffimg and having redo sanding i thought there has to be a better more visual way of seeing removal of material on clear coat so i atarted usinf the powdered guide coat but doesnt sit well in these fime grits and moat washes off.... so i thought hmmm leme try somwthing that makes alot less mess and wouldnt wash off... so i grabed my body line marker and started marking panel let it dry a bit and have never looked back since...
Awesome.
You can just keep sanding with the glaze on there by stepping up in grits as it becomes more transparent.. Glaze easily sands with 800,1200,1500 in your final steps...
Yes you can absolutely. We took it off early mostly to show the concept of bringing down the bulk of the run without any damage around it.
Great information, I am liking your recent videos and learning a lot. With luck, my first complete job will be in my home garage sometime in the spring. I have a question, not really addressed in this video but related: When there is a severe run or sag like you showed with the "heads" on the drips, I am assuming that extra thick 10-20 mils of clear actually ran down from where it was sprayed, just above the run (gravity.) Therefore, the area above a big run like that must be a lot thinner than the intended mils of coverage? When an experienced painter would see a run after a coat of clear, do you intentionally wait until it flashes and then go back and try to add another coat to the area immediately above the run so it will not end up as a thin spot, or will that just end up making more of a mess?
You got it. Letting it flash and applying an extra coat is a good trick to have a better chance of recovering the run. But being careful not to cause solvent pop by trapping excess solvents. If you’re using a slow reducer you shouldn’t have an isssue. We wanted to address that as well as addressing a tip using tape if your run is in your first coat of clear to remove the bulk of the run. Hopefully in future videos we can bring more context to these things. Thanks for watching!
I just subscribed, I'm gonna follow along your content. Looks pretty good. I have a question. Do you have a recommendation for a filtration oil air trap system that you would recommend
We love the devilbiss DAD pro 3 stage. If you’re not in a rush I believe Lumaiii is coming out with a good one that’s more affordable.
What are we! INFERIOR decorators 😂 with all these Sags and Curtains?? Great video Refinsh media! You are showing tricks of The Trade technology!! Cool for the next generation of Automotive Painters to have a place to see ALl The Tricks of The Trade!!! # Bling By String .
Thank you
How is your shop so clean? Are you actually doing production work in there?
I think they only do Training in the shop
We clean it.
Have you ever heard there’s a difference in the shape of the materials between a hand block sand paper and disc sand paper same grit. The hand block paper has a pointy shape and disc paper has more of a rounded shape
I have heard that I dont know the effects of it and if that’s true for every brand.
It would be nice if 3M's genius engineers would print the grit the grit number all over the back of the paper so you know what the heck it is even with small pieces. Seems like a no brainer
Agreed lol
I repainted a quarter panel because I didn't wait. Rule numer 1.....let the run sit!
Absolutely. We have all done that lol.
And runs take more time to dry since there's much more material
Been there too being in a hurry.
What about single stage
A solid color single stage would be addressed the same way. Thanks for watching!
I’ve even used 180 before now 😂. That’s K.I.S.S 😂
I love it
Just don't run your matte clear...
Right!
I’ve never ran matte clear but I’ve been told it’s a repaint if you do it
Yeah and if it’s too dirty the only solution is repaint
I’m a yahoo
We all are!
600 takes way to long to get rid of those scratches. I start with 1500. The razor blade is the best except for reverse curves.
We find 1500 is too high of a grit to actually remove the run 100 percent. The razor blade is definitely the best way.
1500 just rounds the run. No real professional painter starts with 1500 or 1000 grit.