Nice to see someone recommend crimping without trashing soldering. btw the Class K welding cable he's using is perfectly fine; it's a nice upgrade over regular battery cables. If you happen to need super-flexible cable get Class M instead. It uses tougher insulation, is more conductive and so it costs a bit more but it's well worth it imho. Tight turns like on motorcycles are no problem for Class M cable.
I think i'm going to get that crimper and redo mine. i used one of the hammer crimpers and i just don't like how it tends to mangle the lug. I had to use in on my strut tower because i was putting new lugs on the factory cables, lol! luckily i left the wires a little too long because i wasn't happy with the crimps.
I have this same tool and used it many times I have four runs of 0gauge Powe running from front battery to rear battery for the stereo system in my envoy
That’s crazy! I just bought all the to do my 70 Monte Carlo and that’s what I went with, different crimpers but same everything else. That shrink tube is awesome! Love the video and all Fab Forms stuff!
I have the same tool and I love it but I have found that if you go down a size and crimp a connector more than one time it does the best. No other method compares. Best crimp and cheap!
Old post I know, but what do you mean go down a size? I’m trying to crimp 8awg wire and every time I crimp it flares out to one side and doesn’t hold.. Do you mean use the next bigger or smaller size?
@@southtexasff the next smaller size to make sure it’s crimped good. I crimp the middle first then just below it again to use as much crimping surface as possible. Really clamping it closed around the wire as much as I can. I have never had one fail or come apart even on off-road applications.
@@southtexasff to prevent flares try crimping half way then rotate the wire a little. Crimp a little then rotate and repeat. It’s not the fastest way to add a connector I know but it is the best way that I have found over 30 years. Smash that copper around the wire like play-doh.
Well done. A lot of guys think this is expensive, it's not. It's the right way. Since I build older Jeeps the only difference being I use all American-made marine-grade wire and cables. I'm done with aftermarket fuse blocks too. Too much waste or too expensive for what I need. Again with the right tools and a little knowledge building my own is knowing it is just what I want. I got a lot of my interest in building my own from your previous videos on the relay blocks. Thanks a lot.
Regarding the lug itself... if you had to pick one of the following 3 options what would you choose? 1. Gold-Plated 2. Tinned Copper 3. Bare Cooper For the ring terminal lugs for MAIN battery connections. What would you recommend out of the 3 options? Thanks
I heard tinned is good to use solder with, after drilling through it, it's a light layer over the copper. When I torched my copper lugs they turned black and I wonder if that would affect their performance having an oxidized layer ontop. For RV/automotive, tinned seems most appropriate but I've never used gold plated lugs.
Just be aware that welding cable insulation often can’t handle oil, gasoline, solvents etc. and any “splashes” will turn it to mush over time and create big problems. Battery cables however has tougher insulation. It’s not as flexible, but it’s tougher.
I think that one of the reasons why solder is not used in aviation is that were there to be a current surge that caused the wire to glow red hot (e.g. if something short-circuited without the protection of a fuse or trip), the solder would melt and drip, potentially causing other issues. An unlikely scenario admittedly, but the aviation industry tries to protect against even the unlikely stuff.
FWIW, solder is used in aviation. NASA, for instance has a plethora of official soldering standards that serve as the benchmark in the aerospace industry. Soldered connections are required so often that they are published.
I know this is 3 years late, and the crimper you're showing looks like a high-quality product, but for crimping these huge cables I just recently got a hydraulic crimper (the crimping dies go up to 1/0 gauge cable) from Harbor Freight ($70) -- I don't use solder anymore "to be sure" because the crimp is VERY solid. Nice. 🙂 -- BR
I just used this tool and it took 3 large efforts to crimp a 1/0, with the 3rd being the only one I could close it fully, and doesn't look like a uniform crimp. I felt like I was going to break the tool, it's probably better for smaller wires, now I'm trying to figure out how to make it work... I keep seeing solder vs no solder, I'll let you know if my solder fails me.
@@Squad44ICOhappened Well, mine has been fine so far. I DO get those little "wings" on the crimp (it's not a perfect hex one of the other brand (but looks-identical) tool makes (guess their dies are different?) but I don't care because the crimp it DOES make is super-strong/tight, and I cover it with a short piece of heat-shrink-tubing anyway. To me the crimp/heat-shrink looks very professional, even factory-made. Soon though I'll be getting some 1/0 terminals and will use the Harbor Freight tool for them. I don't expect any issue but will try to remember and let you know here. As for how many pumps it takes, I don't count them...I just get the terminal/lug in the die at the angle I want it, close the dies just enough to hold the terminal/lug, insert the wire and start pumping. As I said, so far it's been fine. HOWEVER, there's no need to pump it to the max where you can barely move the lever -- STOP when you get some noticeable/firm resistance. Maybe 5-6 pumps or so should do. Just look at the crimp to make sure it's completely compressed, no need to pump too much, and it puts excessive pressure on the seals (not good) w/o improving the crimp at all. And no, I never felt at all like I was going to break the tool -- it says on the box it does 8 tons (16,000lbs) of pressure, AND the tool looks well-built -- just like the other more expensive versions I've seen that look IDENTICAL except for color and/or price (look for the video comparing the H-F with the Temco brand version). So IMO, it seems to be very well designed and quite robust. Should be no issue for 1/0 terminals/lugs so I don't know why you had an issue. Look up Y-T videos on the H-F tool...see if there are any issues with it -- I don't recall seeing any (except the "wings" on the crimp) but none with the tool not crimping properly (meaning tight/securely), it's just a cosmetic issue (for some people I guess but not for me). However, will find out tomorrow when the lugs arrive for my 1/0 cable. -- BR
@@Squad44ICOhappened BTW, just read one of the reviews (in another Y-T video) of this tool and ti says this: "this thing works amazingly and so glad i got it i used it to crimp lugs onto my 0 guage power wire i ran for my amps in my truck i cut one i half that sucker was cold welded one solid chunk of metal when you crimp with this thing" ...so I wonder why your 1/0 crimp didn't work properly. Could it be the terminal/lug you used vs. the tool? I don't know. Later, -- BR
@@billredding2000 Hi Bill, for clarification I was referring the tool in the video, not your hydraulic press. You have just about sold me on it because, if the cable fails from these clipper style crimpers that I soldered, I will be buying a hydraulic, but I have seen a nice manual hydraulic tool that interests me. It is held on, but the contact pressure isn't symmetrical. Took 3 tries to close the tool once. Half the time when you close the tool the die aren't aligned properly. This is 1/0 wire. Used all my body weight through the tool to even finish the 1/0. This tool is $25 and maybe for 2 gauge wire it's acceptable, But 50mm might be not work, seems way too tight. because supposedly if you size up 1 size, it crimps with better results in symmetrical pressure. This is what I read, not verified.
@@Squad44ICOhappened Oh...since you were replying to me I thought you meant "my" tool -- the HF hydraulic crimper! Still, look up Y-T videos on it as there are several. Except in their videos (some from 4-7 years ago!) the tool is yellow, mine is red so that may be the current color H-F is using for it now. I didn't want to pay big-money for a hydraulic crimper so I went the H-F one. Also, as 1/0 wire is likely the largest cable I'll be using (for 12v system 2000W Pure Sine Wave inverters) this tool maxes-out @ 1/0 size cable so it should be fine. If I need larger cable (AWG 2/0, 3/0, etc.) I'll need another/larger hydraulic crimper, but for now I'm set. Like my plan to Live Forever, I can say of the H-F tool, "So far, so good." Some people don't like the "wings" the H-F tool makes when it crimps, but other people say you just turn the tool to crimp all the way around as you go to make a "perfect hex" crimp -- I don't need a "perfect hex crimp" so I won't be doing that. Good luck choosing your hydraulic, -- BR
As Kevin says down the list here...the purpose of the "glue" inside heatshrink tubing, is when the glue activates from heat and then flows, it creates a weatherproof seal...this is "code" in the marine world...which is basically just the outdoors environment, so the automotive environment is basically the same thing as "marine" in terms of the need for weatherproof electrical connections. Usually marine shrink tubing (with the heat-activated glue) is very expensive, but Harbor Freight has a great marine heat-shrink tubing kit with a compartmentalized box of different sizes for $6...only problem is it's all black....so I usually do another red piece of normal tubing over the already installed marine black when doing the positive power side of a circuit. I remember in Air Force electronics school being told to always do a "mechanical" connection, i.e. crimp, followed by a soldered connection, but then heard argument that the marine and aviation electrical code says NOT to solder because of that "solder wicking" into the conductors making it a possible break point at the soldered/unsoldered point due to vibration....BUT the soldered connection also creates even more of a weatherproof connection because the micro airspace between conductors is filled in by solder, preventing the wicking of moisture into that air-space that enables corrosion inside the conductor and lug connection...that we'd never see. So I choose to use my own judgement rather that rigidly following code....connections close to or attached to a vibrating engine might benefit from following that code, while electrical connections at the top of a 35 foot sailboat mast that you can't easily get to, totally exposed to the weather but not so much vibration and movement (if fastened down), might benefit from that 100% weatherproofed connection....crimped, soldered, AND marine shrink tubing. Thanks for the vid ! www.harborfreight.com/42-piece-marine-heat-shrink-tubing-67598.html
I got a set off eBay that wasn't a whole lot more and they are hydraulic...i love em and they have dies that you can switch out that have a - or + logo that stamps into the piece your crimping
Im new to this..need your help..I need to buy some heat shrink for that particular battery cable but don't know the size I need to buy the heat shrink.?.can you guide me ?what size I need?
I usually crimp, then solder after. Works for me. If I didn't already have a hydraulic crimper, I'd probably just solder it. I think either way is a good way to skin this cat.
A proper die crimp basically turns it into solid copper and there is no benefit to solder. In fact it shouldn't even really be possible since there's no gap for the solder to wick into. Generally it's not recommended to combine soldering with crimping because solder will eventually 'creep' and weaken the crimped connection. Perhaps there is a circumstance in which it would make sense, but I can't think of one.
@@SouthernCrossSailing I'm too drunk at the moment to think about (or test) the feasibility of solder flowing into a crimped connection. That said, I've put these connections inside a few 1000-2500hp race cars which can vibrate pretty intensely at times. I haven't had a failure, so I'm not going to mess with success. I'd still feel 100% in my work if I simply soldered it. I've seen broken solder joints, but I've only observed them inside joints where you need a microscope to resolder them.
@@RK-kn1ud Next time you have your hydraulic die crimper out, cut a waste joint in half and you'll see what I mean. Race cars sound fun. I used to do undersea connectors for submersibles and ROVs. We used NASA workmanship standards and they disallow combining crimping with soldering.
If you do big cables you will want to do more than one crimp (close enough to touch but not overlapping). Rotate from left to right side (with the handles) when crimping and you can avoid curling the end. Your welcome.
The crimping tool works well, BUT the one I received from Amazon has the Jaw numbers in millimeters, not AWG wire sizes. So, I have to find a chart that tells me how many millimeters equals each AWG. PITA!
The biggest issue with welding cable for auto use is that the jacket material is often not oil and gas resistant. Auto battery cable is designed for use in an engine compartment where both oil and gas may be present.
Many cable lugs crimping tool crimp not really well but crimp incorrectly or less well. A thin ring in the middle is not good! If you look at battery cables on a car, you'll know!
I found a better tool. iCrimp IWS-0810N Battery Cable Terminal Lug Crimping Tool for 8,6,4,2,1,1/0 AWG Electrical Copper Battery Lugs, Fixed Hexagonal Crimping Die Sets.
I used this crimper for my battery/ amplifier wires it's great for the money Don't use welding wire for automotive applications. It not rated for heat or chemicals. For the same price you can get automotive grade ofc wire
Yeah sure. As soon as you start pronouncing aluminum right. There’s only 1 i in the word, why you pronounce it “al-you-mini-um” is beyond me. It’s the same as people that pronounce nuclear with 2 u’s.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
I in fact just bought these exact crimpers because they are a must have. Also picked up smaller ferrule crimpers for smaller terminal connections.
Nice to see someone recommend crimping without trashing soldering.
btw the Class K welding cable he's using is perfectly fine; it's a nice upgrade over regular battery cables. If you happen to need super-flexible cable get Class M instead. It uses tougher insulation, is more conductive and so it costs a bit more but it's well worth it imho. Tight turns like on motorcycles are no problem for Class M cable.
🙌🙌🙌🙌 It’s fridayyyyyyy fooooool!
I think i'm going to get that crimper and redo mine. i used one of the hammer crimpers and i just don't like how it tends to mangle the lug. I had to use in on my strut tower because i was putting new lugs on the factory cables, lol! luckily i left the wires a little too long because i wasn't happy with the crimps.
I have this same tool and used it many times
I have four runs of 0gauge Powe running from front battery to rear battery for the stereo system in my envoy
Next week, a heat gun to replace that torch for shrinking heat shrink!
@Hates Spam cause it does a better job and cost like $16
@Hates Spam wow
Just replace the attachment …to the Propane Tank. DUH
I’ve always used a dollar general $5 hairdryer.
I loved this vid! This guy was very informative, and had a good "way" about him in the sense that he could convey insider tips! Thank you!
That’s crazy! I just bought all the to do my 70 Monte Carlo and that’s what I went with, different crimpers but same everything else. That shrink tube is awesome! Love the video and all Fab Forms stuff!
Thanks mate, Just got one on Amazon and looking at how good it is. Looks good.
I have the same tool and I love it but I have found that if you go down a size and crimp a connector more than one time it does the best. No other method compares. Best crimp and cheap!
Old post I know, but what do you mean go down a size? I’m trying to crimp 8awg wire and every time I crimp it flares out to one side and doesn’t hold.. Do you mean use the next bigger or smaller size?
@@southtexasff the next smaller size to make sure it’s crimped good. I crimp the middle first then just below it again to use as much crimping surface as possible. Really clamping it closed around the wire as much as I can. I have never had one fail or come apart even on off-road applications.
@@southtexasff to prevent flares try crimping half way then rotate the wire a little. Crimp a little then rotate and repeat. It’s not the fastest way to add a connector I know but it is the best way that I have found over 30 years. Smash that copper around the wire like play-doh.
Thanks for all you do for us. I’ve learned a lot watching the Brownell’s show 👍
exactly the info & parts i needed, thanks!
Well done. A lot of guys think this is expensive, it's not. It's the right way.
Since I build older Jeeps the only difference being I use all American-made marine-grade wire and cables. I'm done with aftermarket fuse blocks too. Too much waste or too expensive for what I need. Again with the right tools and a little knowledge building my own is knowing it is just what I want. I got a lot of my interest in building my own from your previous videos on the relay blocks.
Thanks a lot.
What setting did you put the crimp on? For that 1/0 wire
50mm =awg 0 there's a chart on the crimp tool
What brand and model is the crimper?
Regarding the lug itself... if you had to pick one of the following 3 options what would you choose?
1. Gold-Plated
2. Tinned Copper
3. Bare Cooper
For the ring terminal lugs for MAIN battery connections.
What would you recommend out of the 3 options?
Thanks
I heard tinned is good to use solder with, after drilling through it, it's a light layer over the copper. When I torched my copper lugs they turned black and I wonder if that would affect their performance having an oxidized layer ontop. For RV/automotive, tinned seems most appropriate but I've never used gold plated lugs.
The glue material seals off against corrosion on the bare wire as well.
Just be aware that welding cable insulation often can’t handle oil, gasoline, solvents etc. and any “splashes” will turn it to mush over time and create big problems. Battery cables however has tougher insulation. It’s not as flexible, but it’s tougher.
I think that one of the reasons why solder is not used in aviation is that were there to be a current surge that caused the wire to glow red hot (e.g. if something short-circuited without the protection of a fuse or trip), the solder would melt and drip, potentially causing other issues. An unlikely scenario admittedly, but the aviation industry tries to protect against even the unlikely stuff.
FWIW, solder is used in aviation. NASA, for instance has a plethora of official soldering standards that serve as the benchmark in the aerospace industry. Soldered connections are required so often that they are published.
Which numbers do I set the crimper on for 0 gauge wire?
I know this is 3 years late, and the crimper you're showing looks like a high-quality product, but for crimping these huge cables I just recently got a hydraulic crimper (the crimping dies go up to 1/0 gauge cable) from Harbor Freight ($70) -- I don't use solder anymore "to be sure" because the crimp is VERY solid. Nice. 🙂
-- BR
I just used this tool and it took 3 large efforts to crimp a 1/0, with the 3rd being the only one I could close it fully, and doesn't look like a uniform crimp. I felt like I was going to break the tool, it's probably better for smaller wires, now I'm trying to figure out how to make it work... I keep seeing solder vs no solder, I'll let you know if my solder fails me.
@@Squad44ICOhappened Well, mine has been fine so far. I DO get those little "wings" on the crimp (it's not a perfect hex one of the other brand (but looks-identical) tool makes (guess their dies are different?) but I don't care because the crimp it DOES make is super-strong/tight, and I cover it with a short piece of heat-shrink-tubing anyway. To me the crimp/heat-shrink looks very professional, even factory-made.
Soon though I'll be getting some 1/0 terminals and will use the Harbor Freight tool for them. I don't expect any issue but will try to remember and let you know here.
As for how many pumps it takes, I don't count them...I just get the terminal/lug in the die at the angle I want it, close the dies just enough to hold the terminal/lug, insert the wire and start pumping. As I said, so far it's been fine. HOWEVER, there's no need to pump it to the max where you can barely move the lever -- STOP when you get some noticeable/firm resistance. Maybe 5-6 pumps or so should do. Just look at the crimp to make sure it's completely compressed, no need to pump too much, and it puts excessive pressure on the seals (not good) w/o improving the crimp at all.
And no, I never felt at all like I was going to break the tool -- it says on the box it does 8 tons (16,000lbs) of pressure, AND the tool looks well-built -- just like the other more expensive versions I've seen that look IDENTICAL except for color and/or price (look for the video comparing the H-F with the Temco brand version). So IMO, it seems to be very well designed and quite robust. Should be no issue for 1/0 terminals/lugs so I don't know why you had an issue.
Look up Y-T videos on the H-F tool...see if there are any issues with it -- I don't recall seeing any (except the "wings" on the crimp) but none with the tool not crimping properly (meaning tight/securely), it's just a cosmetic issue (for some people I guess but not for me).
However, will find out tomorrow when the lugs arrive for my 1/0 cable.
-- BR
@@Squad44ICOhappened BTW, just read one of the reviews (in another Y-T video) of this tool and ti says this:
"this thing works amazingly and so glad i got it i used it to crimp lugs onto my 0 guage power wire i ran for my amps in my truck i cut one i half that sucker was cold welded one solid chunk of metal when you crimp with this thing"
...so I wonder why your 1/0 crimp didn't work properly. Could it be the terminal/lug you used vs. the tool? I don't know.
Later,
-- BR
@@billredding2000 Hi Bill, for clarification I was referring the tool in the video, not your hydraulic press. You have just about sold me on it because, if the cable fails from these clipper style crimpers that I soldered, I will be buying a hydraulic, but I have seen a nice manual hydraulic tool that interests me. It is held on, but the contact pressure isn't symmetrical. Took 3 tries to close the tool once. Half the time when you close the tool the die aren't aligned properly. This is 1/0 wire. Used all my body weight through the tool to even finish the 1/0. This tool is $25 and maybe for 2 gauge wire it's acceptable, But 50mm might be not work, seems way too tight. because supposedly if you size up 1 size, it crimps with better results in symmetrical pressure. This is what I read, not verified.
@@Squad44ICOhappened Oh...since you were replying to me I thought you meant "my" tool -- the HF hydraulic crimper! Still, look up Y-T videos on it as there are several. Except in their videos (some from 4-7 years ago!) the tool is yellow, mine is red so that may be the current color H-F is using for it now.
I didn't want to pay big-money for a hydraulic crimper so I went the H-F one. Also, as 1/0 wire is likely the largest cable I'll be using (for 12v system 2000W Pure Sine Wave inverters) this tool maxes-out @ 1/0 size cable so it should be fine. If I need larger cable (AWG 2/0, 3/0, etc.) I'll need another/larger hydraulic crimper, but for now I'm set. Like my plan to Live Forever, I can say of the H-F tool, "So far, so good."
Some people don't like the "wings" the H-F tool makes when it crimps, but other people say you just turn the tool to crimp all the way around as you go to make a "perfect hex" crimp -- I don't need a "perfect hex crimp" so I won't be doing that.
Good luck choosing your hydraulic,
-- BR
As Kevin says down the list here...the purpose of the "glue" inside heatshrink tubing, is when the glue activates from heat and then flows, it creates a weatherproof seal...this is "code" in the marine world...which is basically just the outdoors environment, so the automotive environment is basically the same thing as "marine" in terms of the need for weatherproof electrical connections. Usually marine shrink tubing (with the heat-activated glue) is very expensive, but Harbor Freight has a great marine heat-shrink tubing kit with a compartmentalized box of different sizes for $6...only problem is it's all black....so I usually do another red piece of normal tubing over the already installed marine black when doing the positive power side of a circuit.
I remember in Air Force electronics school being told to always do a "mechanical" connection, i.e. crimp, followed by a soldered connection, but then heard argument that the marine and aviation electrical code says NOT to solder because of that "solder wicking" into the conductors making it a possible break point at the soldered/unsoldered point due to vibration....BUT the soldered connection also creates even more of a weatherproof connection because the micro airspace between conductors is filled in by solder, preventing the wicking of moisture into that air-space that enables corrosion inside the conductor and lug connection...that we'd never see.
So I choose to use my own judgement rather that rigidly following code....connections close to or attached to a vibrating engine might benefit from following that code, while electrical connections at the top of a 35 foot sailboat mast that you can't easily get to, totally exposed to the weather but not so much vibration and movement (if fastened down), might benefit from that 100% weatherproofed connection....crimped, soldered, AND marine shrink tubing.
Thanks for the vid !
www.harborfreight.com/42-piece-marine-heat-shrink-tubing-67598.html
I need this tool!!
I will be getting to my electrical soon. Should I run those battery cables through the passenger compartment or under the car?
Through not under
@@tillman40 Thank you!
Thanks for the great video. Most informative.
What ferrule would you use to go from a 2/0 able to a small breaker opening?
It's friday FOOL! 🔥
PERFECT, just ordered!!!
I got a set off eBay that wasn't a whole lot more and they are hydraulic...i love em and they have dies that you can switch out that have a - or + logo that stamps into the piece your crimping
Hi Nathan, how is your hydraulic crimper going? Looking at buying one. Not sure if I should go manual one like this one, or hydraulic. thanks
Why is it that 2/0 copper wire ends are what fit snugly in 1/0 wire? Is it just to get a rise out of me?
Thanks for the video just ordered these crimpers for my motorcycle cables.
Im new to this..need your help..I need to buy some heat shrink for that particular battery cable but don't know the size I need to buy the heat shrink.?.can you guide me ?what size I need?
Harbor Freight has a kit with most popular sizes and colors.
One trick I do is order color heat shrink and put it on the wire over the terminal so I Don't get them mixed up.
you drill copper end heat feed soilder in
Will this crimper work if I’m crimping multiple wires to a 6awg cable
Lug ?
Yeah I would think so
You don't tell us what size on the crimper for the gauge wire
I’m an Electrical Engineer. You did everything right. Well done.
I have a hammer style crimper for battery lugs that works really well
What's the chance I actually watch this video on a Friday
Very good, How can I contact you?
What make is the tool
Friday fool at last 👍👍
Great information, And I worked for the company Raychem which invented shrink tubing, Isn't that great stuff . 👍
Make sure that you get a crimper with AWG wire gauge markings and not millimeter markings. The millimeter ones won't properly crimp the connector.
What if you have mm2 cable?
Where's the link to the tool ??
In the description
What size cable
1/0ga
I usually crimp, then solder after. Works for me.
If I didn't already have a hydraulic crimper, I'd probably just solder it.
I think either way is a good way to skin this cat.
A proper die crimp basically turns it into solid copper and there is no benefit to solder. In fact it shouldn't even really be possible since there's no gap for the solder to wick into. Generally it's not recommended to combine soldering with crimping because solder will eventually 'creep' and weaken the crimped connection. Perhaps there is a circumstance in which it would make sense, but I can't think of one.
@@SouthernCrossSailing I'm too drunk at the moment to think about (or test) the feasibility of solder flowing into a crimped connection.
That said, I've put these connections inside a few 1000-2500hp race cars which can vibrate pretty intensely at times. I haven't had a failure, so I'm not going to mess with success.
I'd still feel 100% in my work if I simply soldered it. I've seen broken solder joints, but I've only observed them inside joints where you need a microscope to resolder them.
@@RK-kn1ud Next time you have your hydraulic die crimper out, cut a waste joint in half and you'll see what I mean. Race cars sound fun. I used to do undersea connectors for submersibles and ROVs. We used NASA workmanship standards and they disallow combining crimping with soldering.
@@SouthernCrossSailing If I get the opportunity, I will give it a try.
Good tip, hot glue heat shrink.
If you do big cables you will want to do more than one crimp (close enough to touch but not overlapping). Rotate from left to right side (with the handles) when crimping and you can avoid curling the end. Your welcome.
I read it 10 times and I'm not understanding
I use my press and a 6mm rod for crimping those in.
I dig you need this tool. Good videos
Wow. Would thought that would've been more expensive. Great deal hero
Great advise as always Sir, keep up the great work.
Hell yes! Thanks for creating the content! Thumbs up!
Doesn't do 8AWG? Fittings go from 6 straight to 10....
In 'Aviation', 'we' most certainly DO NOT use solder...
The crimping tool works well, BUT the one I received from Amazon has the Jaw numbers in millimeters, not AWG wire sizes. So, I have to find a chart that tells me how many millimeters equals each AWG.
PITA!
Used solder for yrs w/no probs.To each their own. : )
Ty!
Dont buy cheap crimpers, get the FTZ Correct Crimp... More money, but really good results.
Thanks god bless
The biggest issue with welding cable for auto use is that the jacket material is often not oil and gas resistant. Auto battery cable is designed for use in an engine compartment where both oil and gas may be present.
This would be better if the closeups were in focus.
Thanks
They don't work in vehicle very difficult. Save your money
Great video 👍👍🇨🇱
Need the Friday fool videos 😭😭
I already have this tool fool!
Many cable lugs crimping tool crimp not really well but crimp incorrectly or less well. A thin ring in the middle is not good! If you look at battery cables on a car, you'll know!
1/0 is good for 150 Amps
Talk about some major overkill with the welding wire. Maybe if you're trying to start a Cummins...
I think your crimp is a bit loose. Time will tell.
I found a better tool. iCrimp IWS-0810N Battery Cable Terminal Lug Crimping Tool for 8,6,4,2,1,1/0 AWG Electrical Copper Battery Lugs, Fixed Hexagonal Crimping Die Sets.
I used this crimper for my battery/ amplifier wires it's great for the money
Don't use welding wire for automotive applications. It not rated for heat or chemicals.
For the same price you can get automotive grade ofc wire
You can solder the tip making sure the solder doesnt run past the terminal. No failure points guaranteed.
Tinned lugs don't work well . I hate it!!!!
Are crimping me!?
i do wish you guys in the us would pronounce SOLDER correctly there is a L in the middle
Absolutely. But than again, I suppose it’s no real difference to those who say ‘than’ when they should be saying ‘then’… I absolutely HATE that!
Yeah sure. As soon as you start pronouncing aluminum right. There’s only 1 i in the word, why you pronounce it “al-you-mini-um” is beyond me. It’s the same as people that pronounce nuclear with 2 u’s.
@@SergioPena20 no, aluminium has two i's....
@@boxhead7180 The American Chemical Society (ACS) adopted ALUMINUM in 1925… - Merriam-Webster Dictionary
Both pronunciations are acceptable. If you try to pronounce all English words based on how they’re spelled you’re going to have a bad time.
🤙🏼
No time to listen intros. Cut to the point pls.
Hall Anthony Taylor Brian Jones Edward
Lol
you gay haha