My uncles buddies friends nephews roommate had a 92 corolla that had a misfire at 7000rpm on Tuesday when it was raining and a sparkplug fixed it. May give it a shot
@@ChrisSullivan69Alex and you would be really good together producing content for the merc. I second the op comment! Big fan. Always save the vlog for when I’m able to have a miler Lite in the can and enjoy your uploads. Again I think asking Alex @ligitstreetcars. Is the way to go.
Hi Chris. I have a 2010 E63 AMG. Bought it after watching your initial videos and love the car. It has just at 100k miles. I had a similar misfire between 1,500 and 2,000 rpms, not enough to trigger a check engine light or go into limp mode, but definitely misfiring. Did most of what you did; plugs, injectors, coils, PCV, intake cleaning and gaskets, smoke machine, air temp sensor, etc. I watched a video from Tasos about the throttle plate corrosion issues. Took apart my intake and found 2 places where it was corroded through. Replacement on Ebay worked just fine and my misfire is gone.
I would try reaching out to Alex at Legit Street Cars he knows a ton on those AMG’s. I almost wonder if it could be a fuel pressure issue or fuel pressure regulator issue.
When replacing the cam adjusters, a new cam adjusters calibration must be done using the STAR DIAGNOSIS in order to teach in the camshaft positions.once the car is reached the correct temps u should be able to do the camshaft adjusters adaptions by revving to 2700-3500 rpm and maintaining it for 15 secs using the diagnostic tool. it will tell you all the steps to follow. some cars are able are able to run without the adaptations but its required any time you mess with the adjusters. it will run like its misfiring but once you do the adaptations it should run smoothly.
Agreed. These calibration adaptions are technically supposed to be performed. Not all techs do them, but I've seen issues that only adaptations rectify. I would honestly just update the ME software completely, and then run through all the teach-in adaptions.
Idk why I didnt think to ask Alex from Legit Street Cars if anyone would know how to fix this problem its him for sure. I've seen him work on a white one just like yours and he was a Mercedes tech before he started doing more RUclips. Definitely reach out to him.
Benz tech here. The manifolds can also leak internally because the throttle bodies are mounted to a plate that corrodes at the seam. Super common. Unfortunately those manifolds are discontinued and you have to buy an SLS manifold and they are like $6,000.
Dude that SUCKS. I feel your pain. Great video as always. Idk if you watch Legit Street Cars but he was a prior master tech at mercedes for years. Id reach out to him. Hes a great dude.
Check that there is no voltage drops and you alternator is working good. Mine did the same in 3000 RPM range. I did get lots of misfires and ECM put my car in limb mode. I did read codes with manufacturers diagnostic software, it did tell my ECM was bad. My ECM was fine, it was only poorly working altenator which coused spikes and voltage drops in electric system, even with a new fully charged battery. My misfire / limb mode issue was gone after alternator change.
Hi, did you get misfire on both banks or only one bank? Mine is misfiring only on bank one. Also tried everything. So maybe it's the alternator. I just want to know did it affect both banks?
Totally get why you parked it. Glad you are back at trying again. It is a really cool car. I am 5 minutes in, now back to it. You are so awesome. One of my most favorite hosts.
Alex over at the Legit Street Cars channel used to be a Mercedes Benz Cert mechanic, he would be a good guy to get in touch with, he seems like a great dude. Just a thought. I couldnt touch this ptoject, had a few 03 Cobras and one 99 Lightning, those im comfortable with 😂
Chris, you deserve so much success on this platform. I wish I knew anything about a mercedes to offer help, but I figured I'd let you know instead we appreciate the hard work, quality, and level of details that goes into these videos. It's some of the most genuine content on here. Even at a solid, near, 75k, you deserve so much more. Cheers and good luck on getting this fixed. Looking forward to the next video!
My c63 and my friends c63 both misfire the same way, if we push it too hard it’ll end up throwing a blinking cel then sold but if I restart the car it’ll go away, we changed sparks coils still misfire he ended up getting a retune and that did it! Im sure you just need a retune. Now his car is perfectly fine he went thru project gamma he’s stage 2 catless downpipe now and the car is not giving any issues whatsoever.
Hi, it's very difficult to diagnose a car by "remote" and without a real diagnostic tool... however, based on the dealer list of codes I can see P0653 that's interesting. The other 06 codes are misfires and the result of misfires. P0653 refers to a missing 5v reference. 5v reference is like the nervous system of the car (ECU) and is used to send/recieve signals from various sensors. The mechanical parts seem to be in order so it's very likely that the ECU doesn't like some recieved data. The fact that it tooks about 3 seconds to light the MIL says that it has a strategy to go into limp mode if let's say in this case commands 15 degrees cams, but doesn't see a 15 degrees cam during 3 seconds of commanding. Normally I would say a camshaft position sensor (not actuator), but on your reader seemed ok... having a 5v reference code could lead to a camshaft sensor fault (the sensors are powered by the 5v ref) in a way that the ECU doesn't recieve the camshaft sensor signal because the sensor itself it's not powered up or maybe the sensor pulls the 5v to ground because is broken. The other codes are MB specific codes and I can't find them online. You should get a decent diagnostic tool (they do decode the brand specific codes). So...play around with the camshaft sensors from bank 1 to bank 2 and see if the fault moves from bank to bank. Check for wire integrity especially in the sensors area - vibrations/heat points. The fact that does seem to work fine with the actuator disconnected is because the ECU disables all the variable timming system and gets to a pre-determined map. Regarding the professional technicians on RUclips check with SuperMario Diagnostics, Diagnose Dan and especially Tasos Moschatos (specialized in AMG). Forget about wizards and legit streets BS. If you have any details about the symptoms write them, I'll be happy to share my knowledge. Cheers!
@@ChrisSullivan69 No problem! You have nice videos. Go with basic stuff on this situation. Stop investing a lot of time and money in the mechanical parts. You did a good job in the beginning so it should be all good over just 10k miles. The fact that it ran ok when you finished the first time means there's something else that got wrong elsewhere. I'm betting you have an electrical problem, not a mechanical one. So go basic at first....wires and sensors. At 1500 rpm something changes and the ECU doesn't recieve the confirmation that has changed as required. I'm not very sure is the timing...you should have had misfires on all the bank 1 cylinders. Yours is flagging mostly nr.1....the oders might be just the ECU interpreting wrongly.
@@cuntnuggets4587 A bad component like a sensor can pull down a 5v ref. Not necessarily a bad PCM... probably an intermittent fault, otherwise more errors would have come up on the Xentry scan, 5v power up many components, that's the reason why usually are more than one 5v ref, in case of a short on one of them it doesn't kill everything. But at this point are just suppositions...a real diagnostic must be made to understand the details.
@@alexdragomirescu5084 yea but a sensor pulling down a 5v would cause it all the time him cutting off the key should not change it. Hints why i say pcm. Oil pressure switches or temp sensors are usually all the time problems not only at 1500 rpm
Okay I'm not going to suggest another car channel, but why if you unplug the cam shaft adjuster solenoid would you not replace that part? Did you confirm it's working properly? Seems like the next move if the car runs fine while it's unplugged. Love this channel as it shows the failures and the wins!
I was thinking the same thing. They essentially charged him for not doing a damn thing. If they had found the exact problem that would have been a different story.
I have been waiting for your update in the hopes you would direct me to a cause. I have a 2011 E63 AMG that is giving me FITS. I have gone through a similar situation. 87k miles at the time of service. No misfires. Bad rattle on start. I replaced the cam adjuster plates with 63 Motorsports parts. I used your video as my guide. Bought the same parts from FCP and the same timing tool from Amazon. I also replaced the valve cups as you did. I put it all back together and have been chasing my tail ever since. I've been throwing misfires especially at low rpms. I've been in the valve train three times, taken the adjusters apart twice and then had a local shop that has lots of m156 experience help me out. They found that even though I had set the timing using the timing tool, the engine may have rotated a tiny bit past 40 before TDC when I torqued the camshaft bolts and they corrected the timing. The worst of the timing issues are sorted and have narrowed to only misfires on the bank 2 (driver's side) exhaust camshaft. I still get random misfires. Like you, I have replaced the spark plugs, coil packs and all new cam position sensors. My car will run and drive, and will actually clear the exhaust camshaft timing CEL by itself and then a week later throw the code again. I'm still driving it, but I've got this one code that I cannot figure out. So, you are not the only one with timing/misfire issues after replacing the camshaft plates. And I am frustrated and baffled as to what else could be causing the problem. My next try will be a test from my diagnostic tool where you warm the car up and then run the engine at between 2700-3500 rpms for 15 seconds for the camshafts to relearn timing.
Damn, suks man! I'll keep you posted. Mine ran fine after doing the plates but i still did a cam position re-learn on them. Going to try that on mine as well once I get a Xentry setup
I had those cam adjuster timing faults on my friend's car and looks like someone swapped the Solenoid wires, try it too, interchange and see if faults return.
This is probably very stupid of a comment, but I had a ton of misfires, MAF, and other emission-related codes with my 2011 VW CC and threw a lot of parts and diagnoses at it. Ran amazing at start, then would go into limp mode or randomly throw a check engine light with occasional misfires on several cylinders. Replaced MAF sensor, replaced all plugs and coils, had carbon cleaning done, etc. Always issues occurred when engine was warm and around 2,000 RPM. Finally googled the crap out of it and decided to replace the PCV valve and have had a perfectly operating vehicle ever since. Bad PCV was causing tons of downstream problems. Not sure if this is the same with other German vehicles and I haven't watched all of your videos, but just thought I would share.
There is a Xentry test for cam adjuster control. You should do those tests and make sure it is satisfied with the control of each one. I got the Benz Ninja for my setup. There are cheaper ways to do it but you pay him once and then buy the things he recommends and you end up with a WORKING setup that he fully supports. Or you can drive down to RI and I'll hook mine up....
Oh my friend, your pain was palpable. I wish I had been sitting in your garage with you, having an adult beverage or two. You have tried so hard. Even with your struggles, I enjoyed the time with you. I know you are going to come up with something. Thanks for doing what you do.
I had the same issue last month, Multi miss fire only in one side (driver side) I tried everything and the issue didn't go to the other bank. So I opened the valve cover and found out that one of the adjuster plate (the upper one was damaging the Camshaft Adjuster Cover. Creating a hollow ring inside the Camshaft Adjuster Cover) my clue was when I opened the VVT Solenoid I found some aluminum on the screen of the VVT Solenoid. GL and check them out. Fixed my car in Abo Taesser Garage In Jeddah
i`M FAR AWAY FROM BEING EXPERT ON THIS THING BUT I CAN SUMMURISE IN 4 MAIN THINGS : SELANOID ON WIRING UNBALANCED POWER SUPPLY OR SOME MOISTURE IN THE ECU, SINCE IT WAS RAINING THE DAY YOU HAD THE PROBLEM IN THE FIRST HAND THROTTLE
Check whether the reluctor shifted on the cam. It would basically appear as if your timing is ok but the actual sprocket is not in the correct position on the camshaft as the reluctor shifted.
I’ve had two m156 cars and the engines were superb with adjuster maintenance and one new cam at 70k miles on one bank . One engine threw error codes from a dirty cat so it may be that. I’d also swap out the cam solenoids AND the wiring harness section from them to the ecu . Hang in there , you will solve it and be even more stoked when you do! Over here in Britland, one of our ex PMs (Winston Churchill) said “When you’re going through hell, keep going “.
Get some ignition waveforms and analyze them. Lets see if we are dealing with a spark issue (ECU, wiring ect) or an Air or fuel issue. Shout out to Pine Hollow and ScannerDanner and see if they can't help throw you some clues. Good luck! Cheers!
As a former enjoyer of germanic cars, your pain makes me feel like turning back to my mustang roots was the right call. My heavily modified 08 GT500 runs like a dream.....quickly finding a wood surface to knock....
Since it works with any one of the solenoids disconnected, maybe a wiring or power issue. I don't know how the wiring is but there may be a short in one of the common wires and shorting out the power as soon as it tries to kick in at 1,500. Don't just check the wires to ground, disconnect the wiring to them and check the wires to ground AND to each other, could be shorted together. Or the other common power for the solenoids is probably from the ECU and maybe the ECU is burned up just for that circuit and does not show up on the self built in test. I'm not an AMG guy but I have been working on military and civilian helicopters and jets for 28 years and I have seen some crazy electrical gremlins. Love the videos and love that car too. Good luck man and hope you get it figured out!
As a fellow mercedes owner (w219) i feel your pain and some of the simpliest maintenence can be a brutal torture!!! Ive gotten good at swapping out air struts and other air ride components along with those camshaft solenoids and sensors, my last endeavours however were discs and pads on all 4 corners and the p.i.t.a. Motor mounts, my driverside one came out in 2 pieces😂😂😂…..but she runs like a champ and has never let me down ( knock on wood )…….and over the past decade of owning her she definitely paid her stay!!! And we have gotten all of our money’s worth outta her!!!!
Verify that the connector on the fuel pump housing is not burned . Could be that the fuel controller is reporting to ecu an issue and then the ecu triggers misfires as a safety.
idk how I haven't discovered your channel sooner, you have good taste, im a gm Mercedes guy myself, started gm and came into Mercedes later in life, I have a 07 s65 and an 07 c6 z06, and if I had a muscle car it would be a 69 Camaro, my father always drag raced when I was growing, he has his pro mod 63 vette for sale now, guy ran 5.90's but it should run 80's
I was going to suggest the same. They do go bad, one did on my car. Replace it for immediate fix Timing is spot on, obviously the adjusters are okay, there is nothing that goes bad with them besides the dreaded wear by the pin Also, even minor air leaks on these engines can make them act up. I would replace that air duct going into the manifold as well
I gotta say, Mercedes content is not really my thing, but I love the channel, and watch all the videos to support it. Keep your head up on this one Chris and keep pumping out great content!
What if you swapped the actuators left to right see ir maybe it follows the issue to the other bank? Also maybe a knock sensor is misinterpreting the harmonics at those rpm’s as misfire? Good luck with it too🙌
Never thought I would see so many LSC comments in one comment section. Glad everyone knows who he is tho. Great creator and both him and Chris would be a fantastic collab
I had a similarly extremely irritating misfire problem..........turns out it was a fuel delivery issue. I don't know what controls the fuel pressure on that fancy motor, but maybe it's similar.
I remembered the original video or two about 2 or 3 weeks ago and I searched for 15 minutes to find this channel to see if a part 2 was ever uploaded just to find out it wasnt lol. Funny that its up now. I seen it on my FYP like 2 or 3 days ago but Ive been busy so here I am now
Hi, German cars Specialist here. I would stop throwing random parts on it and tackle the specifics. 1- Check continuity of wires from related modules to connectors. 2- Check related grounds. Even though you car seems clean, parking outside and using it on snowy environment can cause a plethora of oxidation issues. 3- Fix the 5v related issue. As people stated, this line is the way the can network validate stuff like sensors and so on. BMW call it lin line. 4- If you fix these errors and solenoid still popping up, switch'em. 5- Check solenoid physical actuation. It might not be getting the oil pressure it needs to operate. 6- All related cam adjusting, camshaft positioning, electrical and mechanical stuff checked, there's some other suggestions that I would make: Your misfire comes from the car rising up rpm, probably even mechanically adjusting the cam pulleys, but the ECU doesn't see's it and, doesn't adjust injection accordingly. So, your car is breathing more than it should, and not getting enough fuel due a lack of proper sensor reading. Misfire is a too lean situation. The camshaft adjustable pulleys, like BMW Vanos, works the other way around of common peoples thought. These camshaft advances occurs on low rpm, fixing the problem of a higher lobe camshaft that allow you to breath happily for power. They are accountable for its low end torque as well. 1300, 1500rpm might be the higher engagement point of these pulleys, and for that reason, the most correction an injection system would have to make. With your error, the disparities are too great and a lean situation happens. Other stuff that could cause this same situation is a defective throttle body. Saw it onetime it reporting correctly to the ECU, but in real case it was defective, opening more then it should, causing the lean situation. Normally it would throw a dash light for that, and in some cases you lose the throttle action for security reasons. Last but not least, any intake boot air leak past MAF sensors could cause the lean situation, and sensors reporting out of range. Hope it helps you find the issue. Cheers!
Chris, you should do a compression test and/or cylinder leak down test. To check the overall health and condition of the motor. You may or may not be experiencing a burnt/bent valve, valve/head issue, or even piston ring leakage, etc. I would do that first before attempting anything else or even throwing different parts, more money and your valuable time at it. Hope that little bit helps!
Modern Masters is literally assembling a 6.3 engine from the block and is going through each step for the cams from start to the cam plates at the end in their latest video just now. Maybe ensure his work and your work mirrored to help rule out a step missed where the problem could be coming from.
Oil pressure issue Probably getting excess bleed off pressure from worn valve lifters Looks like that’s a common issue on those motors I.E. class action lawsuit
Potential fixes: Ignition System: Replace spark plugs and/or ignition coils as needed. Ensure spark plug gaps match manufacturer specifications. Fuel System: Clean or replace clogged fuel injectors. Replace the fuel filter and test the fuel pump. Air System: Fix any detected vacuum leaks. Clean or replace the MAF sensor and EGR valve if necessary. Timing and Sensors: Replace faulty crankshaft or camshaft position sensors. Check and fix camshaft adjuster solenoids if variable valve timing is problematic. Internal Engine: Clean carbon deposits with a decarbonizing treatment. If compression is low, engine repairs (e.g., valve job or piston replacement) may be needed.
I've been dealing with things like this on my 25 year old Volvo V70R. These problems are so euro... feel your pain brother. Don't give up. You got this.
I saw you mentioned watching the oscilloscope readings for the 02’s, if your gonna be running the oscilloscope I’d recommend scoping the cam adjuster solenoids. If you know one bank is known good you can record the waves along with the high and low voltage points for that than compare it to the other one. If the issues goes away when you unplug the solenoid it more than likely seems like an electrical issue. The oscilloscope might be able to confirm that. If you are seeings some out of wack wave lengths and voltage readings than you could be having issues from the engines computer, before you replace that though you could run an overlay harness to basically rule out any issues between the computer and the solenoid
@@ryanmartell9470haha you raise a valid point. I feel his pain big time just had to send my pcm out for testing on my mustang after weeks of trouble shooting. Thankfully enough I got a work rig so don’t need a daily daily lol
Int thinking it's got to be within the ME itself. You mentioned early on that it had headers and a tune. I'd at least go for a re-flash/tune. The 18 misfires in such short order makes zero sense. I had a similarly odd issue at my shop with a W210 that would go absolutely nuts at around 2k rpm. Checked absolutely everything. It turned out the customer had the M.E. sent off and "rebuilt". Swapped and programmed another and ran perfectly. You've trouble shot it inside and out, I absolutely suspect the M.E., or at least the tune. Excellent, thorough diagnostics by the way. I'd have followed the same path as yourself.
I'm confident it's got to be your lash adjusters and it makes since. When you are in lower rpms you javelin lower oil pressure so if you have a lash adjuster that is bad this is when it would show. When your rpms get high oil pressure goes up and is high enough to pressure build in the bad lash adjuster. I really hope that this would be the problem and at this point it's the only thing you haven't addressed. Good luck I would love to see you finally figure it out.
Quite a conundrum. I have one suggestion, maybe it sounds stupid but it will cost you nothing and is fast to test. Try removing the X-pipe and check if missfires reoccurs. It is possible that exhaust gasses from the one bank are disturbing the operation of other bank? Really stabbing in the dark here, but just maybe? Anyway good luck with fixing your beautiful E63.
I had the same issue with a c300 2013. It was misfiring on cylinder 1,2 and 3, left side of the engine. I couldn’t let it sit when the engine was warm, had to shift it on neutral and keep the rpm to 1000-1200, otherwise it would get on limp mode. After changing everything on it, sparks, coils O2 sensors, camshaft adjusters, injectors, I got an used ECU and clone it. Car worked fine since then.
Chris, I know everyone is saying to replace the alternator but I would do the voltage regulator first. I did it in my E320 OM 648 solved my voltage issue.
In HP tuners make RPM vs MAP graphs that have: angle des/act, custom math for error of des/act…. Drive around and fill in the table. See what the cams are doing on the road.
If you get help from LSC on the MB, please don’t take his advise on his video formats lol. He has deviated from the golden car RUclips channel video format. This is one reason why I classify your channel above his. He use to use the golden format a few year back, but now he just posts videos with too much of him talking or trying to be funny or odd. Not my cup of tea
"Ah, yes, the 'golden format'-where the cars talk and the host just stands there in silent reverence. Truly a lost art form. Maybe next time he’ll just mime the specs to keep it pure for the connoisseurs."
@@daleyfamily2179 Chris is doing it right. Perfect amount of background info, jokes sprinkled in, Timelapses with music, ride along car clips, diagnostic information. LSC has moved away from this and decided to do a nearly nonstop video of him talking. Sometimes useful information but most of the time pointless thoughts that pop in his head. I think the LSC channel hype has gotten to him. He use to do video formats similar to Chris style. Not anymore. I am pointing out that I prefer Chris style videos over LSC new style
Love all your videos and the hard work you put in fixing the Cobra. This Mercedes seems to be a real pain though. My advice would be to run a lab scope on the cam actuators and look for irregularities in the wave form on its reference voltage and also for any power bleeding over into its ground circuit. The scope we use at my shop is made by Autel and works with their scan tool so you can read 4 signals at a time. (perfect for DOHC) Maybe a friend of yours has one you can borrow or talk with Autel to get a demo scan tool and scope setup. Running the oscilloscope will give much more precise data than a basic scan tool data livestream (more samples per millisecond) and allow you to see exactly how the circuit is malfunctioning in real time. I hope this helps and thanks for all the great content.
Oh man.....we all SOOOO feel for you!! I would MUCH rather something just completely break so I can repair it!! Keep at it Chris!! I know you've seen these comments but Alex at Legit Street Cars might be some help.
Are you seeing a voltage drop to the coils at the affected rpm range? The fact that it’s both banks and random has me questioning sufficient voltage to either your coil packs or injectors during misfire. Take your dmm and check for voltage drop to either. Possibly even oscilloscope both as well to make sure they’re in range.
Everyone reccomended you reach out to Alex, might be a great idea and might make for an awesome video! Perhaps horsepower tuners is not showing you everything. Maybe hook up a scanner from a buddy? Come on Chris, don't let the car get you down. I bet you it will be a small stupid issue. You got it!
Hey Chris! i’m no where near a mercedes tech and i really don’t have any experience around them, but i think i have an idea. so the cam shaft adjustment SENSOR has to be a plug in like you said in your video. you unplugged it and it ran fine. MAYBE you and the techs over looked the inside of the sensor itself and one of the prongs are just shorting out on the cam shaft adjustment. it might be obvious but it could be one of those moments where you checked everything but that.
Hey Chris, I just saw your video about the E-Class and enjoyed it. Great video. Don't give up. It is a great car. You will fix it, I am confident. Bring up the next video about the E-Class. Waiting for it!
I think like others about electrical issues. It's not mechanical for sure. Engine do is thing right but ECU see something wrong. You do everything mechanical. Try to found the colored electrical diag, and understand how the cam position system work. Than pok into wire near the cam position sensor to see if you have all signal like power ground and 5 V reference. They exist some needle tool for that.If you found something wrong break down the system to connector and found where it's good from there trace down wire to found the faulty wire. Im surprised MB didn't do this. They jump on the well know issues the cam phaser. Good luck.
Only a few minutes in and I'm screaming fuel pump or fuel delivery. Oh, I forgot it runs well most of the time. I thought it was a crank no start because it's been so long. Now I'm thinking oil in the wiring harness screwing up the cam position sensor readings, during a specific RPM range. You may be able to graph all four cam positions and see if it glitches at 1500. Ideally this is a job for an oscilloscope. I know you checked the ECU but check the individual harness plugs for oil (cam solenoids and position sensors).
I recently fought an issue with a family member’s 750li where it would have a random misfire on throttle and occasionally, shutdown the car. Changed coils, plugs, filters, you name it. Ended up being the FPCM
You've pretty much covered everything, the only other thing I can think of is you might have forgotten to reconnect the lil ground wire that connects to the left bank phaser solenoid housing when you had it apart, that and maybe when you had the intake manifold apart and removed the throttle body plate you might have loosened the throttle body connections there, I've seen some wonky shit when either of those are loose. Unplugging the solenoids is only putting the engine in a predetermined map that ignores everything for the engine to run, don't let that lead you down a rabbit hole, you gotta look elsewhere it's not that.
I can feel the frustration Chris!! There has to be something in the control side. It could be a stupid wire short that when the system calls for cam phasing it shorts and causes an issue! I should say I have no idea about anything MB, but it sure isn’t mechanical!
I did my '09 E63 last yr after watching your and another fellas video. Has me worried. Only critique (hate being that guy) is that the crank is @40 degrees AFTER dead center. Good luck.
With everything you have tried I would start looking into the ECU, these are known to have some failure points due to the heat these engines produce in the bay and their positioning. I would reach out to Josh at The Mercedes Swap Shop and see if he is familiar with any scenarios like this. * Also make sure you do the re-learn procedure for cam adjusters after installing * most decent scan tools can do this or STAR setup if you have... and second edit... The only other thing aside from ECU i'd look at would be the cam solenoids themselves or their connectors/wiring.. GOOD LUCK man, I know how frustrating these types of scenarios are!
Came across you channel when I was looking for E63 content. Felt the pain in your eyes man. I haven't spent that much time on something for it not to work but I bet it hurts. Hope you get this sorted.
Hello, my name is Grady. I always wanted a Mercedes E63 2011 model and I'm looking eventually I will get one. This is what I come across that might help you just under each of the cam. Adjuster is a camshaft sensor I hear that they go bad and cause The entire left bank or right bank to show a misfire. I hear that's a common thing that happens and not too expensive to replace camshaft hall sensor. Look it up.
At the start of this video I was thinking ‘solenoid’. At the end of the video I’m still thinking solenoid. I know the garage said they swapped one, but I’d still double check - especially the exhaust solenoid - plus it’s a lot simpler to verify than an ECU!
My thought is you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Check the rubber lines that connects to the air box. Also check the 90 degree elbows on the purge valve as well as the whole vent line. Best of luck
When you finally figure this out it’ll be some stupid, simple, god damn pissy litte effin’ part and then you’ll laugh and fall in love again LOL!!! Keep goin Chris. I KNOW you’ll nail this down. Thanks for putting together more great video for us. 👊🏻
![Hunxho - Ball Forever [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nki9ZTF9Uls/mqdefault.jpg)
My uncles buddies friends nephews roommate had a 92 corolla that had a misfire at 7000rpm on Tuesday when it was raining and a sparkplug fixed it. May give it a shot
brb, going to change the spark plugs
No way. This is clearly an O2 sensor issue. He should replace those.😆
@@coopfrmdalou we gotta get you a sarcasm detector.
@@ChrisSullivan69 this is hilarious
@@ChrisSullivan69Alex and you would be really good together producing content for the merc. I second the op comment! Big fan. Always save the vlog for when I’m able to have a miler Lite in the can and enjoy your uploads. Again I think asking Alex @ligitstreetcars. Is the way to go.
You ought to reach out to Alex at Legit Street Cars....he knows a thing or two about Mercedes....and Cobra's !!!
Oops. Didnt see you already suggest this. Lol😂
Their 1000 miles apart
This would be a great collaboration. His knowledge on Mercedes-Benz is up there.
@@teddiazjr.6223 Good thing cell phone's exist....
I was going to suggest this. Lol
Alex at legit street cars. he was a master tech for Mercedes.
Hi Chris. I have a 2010 E63 AMG. Bought it after watching your initial videos and love the car. It has just at 100k miles. I had a similar misfire between 1,500 and 2,000 rpms, not enough to trigger a check engine light or go into limp mode, but definitely misfiring. Did most of what you did; plugs, injectors, coils, PCV, intake cleaning and gaskets, smoke machine, air temp sensor, etc. I watched a video from Tasos about the throttle plate corrosion issues. Took apart my intake and found 2 places where it was corroded through. Replacement on Ebay worked just fine and my misfire is gone.
this seems promising
Bump
U mean it was a vacuum leak??
@curlymyhero Basically, yes. The throttle plate had corroded in 2 places, allowing air to bypass it inside the intake manifold.
I bet legit street cars will be able to help!
Without a doubt, he's good!
he'd either figure it out or buy a new motor and supercharge it
You could have a valve issue, swap them out for the black series valves, get it at fcp euro
Came here to say the same thing. Alex is a master tech. Would be an awesome collaboration.
Ask Alex , from LegitStreetCars he was a top Mercedes tech for years!
I was going to say the same thing chris, not sure if you follow him but he would be the man to speak with on the Mercedes with his back ground.
I would try reaching out to Alex at Legit Street Cars he knows a ton on those AMG’s. I almost wonder if it could be a fuel pressure issue or fuel pressure regulator issue.
When replacing the cam adjusters, a new cam adjusters calibration must be done using the STAR DIAGNOSIS in order to teach in the camshaft positions.once the car is reached the correct temps u should be able to do the camshaft adjusters adaptions by revving to 2700-3500 rpm and maintaining it for 15 secs using the diagnostic tool. it will tell you all the steps to follow. some cars are able are able to run without the adaptations but its required any time you mess with the adjusters. it will run like its misfiring but once you do the adaptations it should run smoothly.
Agreed. These calibration adaptions are technically supposed to be performed. Not all techs do them, but I've seen issues that only adaptations rectify.
I would honestly just update the ME software completely, and then run through all the teach-in adaptions.
Agreed had similar issue in the past myself!
I was thinking this too…
💯
this really seems promising
Idk why I didnt think to ask Alex from Legit Street Cars if anyone would know how to fix this problem its him for sure. I've seen him work on a white one just like yours and he was a Mercedes tech before he started doing more RUclips. Definitely reach out to him.
I second that!!! Alex was a Benz tech for yrs. Not sure if Alex reads his RUclips comments but, I’m going to share this video with him.
Benz tech here. The manifolds can also leak internally because the throttle bodies are mounted to a plate that corrodes at the seam. Super common. Unfortunately those manifolds are discontinued and you have to buy an SLS manifold and they are like $6,000.
Dude that SUCKS. I feel your pain. Great video as always. Idk if you watch Legit Street Cars but he was a prior master tech at mercedes for years. Id reach out to him. Hes a great dude.
Dude whenever there is a problem with a Mercedes I always think " Alex from Legit Street Cars probably knows" lol
Check that there is no voltage drops and you alternator is working good. Mine did the same in 3000 RPM range. I did get lots of misfires and ECM put my car in limb mode. I did read codes with manufacturers diagnostic software, it did tell my ECM was bad. My ECM was fine, it was only poorly working altenator which coused spikes and voltage drops in electric system, even with a new fully charged battery. My misfire / limb mode issue was gone after alternator change.
Hi, did you get misfire on both banks or only one bank? Mine is misfiring only on bank one. Also tried everything. So maybe it's the alternator. I just want to know did it affect both banks?
@@essamallawi9605It happened years ago and I cannot find those data logs anymore, but if I remember correctly, there was misfiring on both banks.
Yep..check for a voltage drop at 1500 rpm.
Totally get why you parked it. Glad you are back at trying again. It is a really cool car. I am 5 minutes in, now back to it. You are so awesome. One of my most favorite hosts.
Alex over at the Legit Street Cars channel used to be a Mercedes Benz Cert mechanic, he would be a good guy to get in touch with, he seems like a great dude. Just a thought. I couldnt touch this ptoject, had a few 03 Cobras and one 99 Lightning, those im comfortable with 😂
Chris, you deserve so much success on this platform. I wish I knew anything about a mercedes to offer help, but I figured I'd let you know instead we appreciate the hard work, quality, and level of details that goes into these videos. It's some of the most genuine content on here. Even at a solid, near, 75k, you deserve so much more. Cheers and good luck on getting this fixed. Looking forward to the next video!
Thanks for the kind words my man. Appreciate you watching. Happy Friday!
I enjoy watching your work on the engine. As a fellow M156 owner I hope you find the issue and get it all sorted. Love the way these things sound!
can't beat that sound
My c63 and my friends c63 both misfire the same way, if we push it too hard it’ll end up throwing a blinking cel then sold but if I restart the car it’ll go away, we changed sparks coils still misfire he ended up getting a retune and that did it! Im sure you just need a retune. Now his car is perfectly fine he went thru project gamma he’s stage 2 catless downpipe now and the car is not giving any issues whatsoever.
There is something sexy about the late 90's and early 2000's vehicles. Beautiful collection.
Hi, it's very difficult to diagnose a car by "remote" and without a real diagnostic tool... however, based on the dealer list of codes I can see P0653 that's interesting. The other 06 codes are misfires and the result of misfires. P0653 refers to a missing 5v reference. 5v reference is like the nervous system of the car (ECU) and is used to send/recieve signals from various sensors. The mechanical parts seem to be in order so it's very likely that the ECU doesn't like some recieved data. The fact that it tooks about 3 seconds to light the MIL says that it has a strategy to go into limp mode if let's say in this case commands 15 degrees cams, but doesn't see a 15 degrees cam during 3 seconds of commanding. Normally I would say a camshaft position sensor (not actuator), but on your reader seemed ok... having a 5v reference code could lead to a camshaft sensor fault (the sensors are powered by the 5v ref) in a way that the ECU doesn't recieve the camshaft sensor signal because the sensor itself it's not powered up or maybe the sensor pulls the 5v to ground because is broken. The other codes are MB specific codes and I can't find them online. You should get a decent diagnostic tool (they do decode the brand specific codes). So...play around with the camshaft sensors from bank 1 to bank 2 and see if the fault moves from bank to bank. Check for wire integrity especially in the sensors area - vibrations/heat points. The fact that does seem to work fine with the actuator disconnected is because the ECU disables all the variable timming system and gets to a pre-determined map. Regarding the professional technicians on RUclips check with SuperMario Diagnostics, Diagnose Dan and especially Tasos Moschatos (specialized in AMG). Forget about wizards and legit streets BS. If you have any details about the symptoms write them, I'll be happy to share my knowledge. Cheers!
All good tips! Thanks for the comment
@@ChrisSullivan69 No problem! You have nice videos. Go with basic stuff on this situation. Stop investing a lot of time and money in the mechanical parts. You did a good job in the beginning so it should be all good over just 10k miles. The fact that it ran ok when you finished the first time means there's something else that got wrong elsewhere. I'm betting you have an electrical problem, not a mechanical one. So go basic at first....wires and sensors. At 1500 rpm something changes and the ECU doesn't recieve the confirmation that has changed as required. I'm not very sure is the timing...you should have had misfires on all the bank 1 cylinders. Yours is flagging mostly nr.1....the oders might be just the ECU interpreting wrongly.
Probably a bad pcm sending a faulty 5v
@@cuntnuggets4587 A bad component like a sensor can pull down a 5v ref. Not necessarily a bad PCM... probably an intermittent fault, otherwise more errors would have come up on the Xentry scan, 5v power up many components, that's the reason why usually are more than one 5v ref, in case of a short on one of them it doesn't kill everything. But at this point are just suppositions...a real diagnostic must be made to understand the details.
@@alexdragomirescu5084 yea but a sensor pulling down a 5v would cause it all the time him cutting off the key should not change it. Hints why i say pcm. Oil pressure switches or temp sensors are usually all the time problems not only at 1500 rpm
Hi ask Alex from Legit streetcars.
He is one of the best on the AMG’s especially the c63’s! #legitstreetcars
I feel that pain, keep at it and I appreciate the no fluff in the video, just real,raw and uncut real life struggles and diagnosis…. Keeep at it 🙌🏽
Thanks man!
Okay I'm not going to suggest another car channel, but why if you unplug the cam shaft adjuster solenoid would you not replace that part? Did you confirm it's working properly? Seems like the next move if the car runs fine while it's unplugged. Love this channel as it shows the failures and the wins!
Alex with LSC --- he is good guy and knows Mercedes.
Mercedes had no problem taking that $1000 for a misdiagnosis and unneeded repair .
I was thinking the same thing. They essentially charged him for not doing a damn thing. If they had found the exact problem that would have been a different story.
this is how literally every ´main dealer works
I have been waiting for your update in the hopes you would direct me to a cause. I have a 2011 E63 AMG that is giving me FITS. I have gone through a similar situation. 87k miles at the time of service. No misfires. Bad rattle on start. I replaced the cam adjuster plates with 63 Motorsports parts. I used your video as my guide. Bought the same parts from FCP and the same timing tool from Amazon. I also replaced the valve cups as you did. I put it all back together and have been chasing my tail ever since. I've been throwing misfires especially at low rpms. I've been in the valve train three times, taken the adjusters apart twice and then had a local shop that has lots of m156 experience help me out. They found that even though I had set the timing using the timing tool, the engine may have rotated a tiny bit past 40 before TDC when I torqued the camshaft bolts and they corrected the timing. The worst of the timing issues are sorted and have narrowed to only misfires on the bank 2 (driver's side) exhaust camshaft. I still get random misfires. Like you, I have replaced the spark plugs, coil packs and all new cam position sensors. My car will run and drive, and will actually clear the exhaust camshaft timing CEL by itself and then a week later throw the code again. I'm still driving it, but I've got this one code that I cannot figure out. So, you are not the only one with timing/misfire issues after replacing the camshaft plates. And I am frustrated and baffled as to what else could be causing the problem. My next try will be a test from my diagnostic tool where you warm the car up and then run the engine at between 2700-3500 rpms for 15 seconds for the camshafts to relearn timing.
Damn, suks man! I'll keep you posted. Mine ran fine after doing the plates but i still did a cam position re-learn on them. Going to try that on mine as well once I get a Xentry setup
I had those cam adjuster timing faults on my friend's car and looks like someone swapped the Solenoid wires, try it too, interchange and see if faults return.
This is probably very stupid of a comment, but I had a ton of misfires, MAF, and other emission-related codes with my 2011 VW CC and threw a lot of parts and diagnoses at it. Ran amazing at start, then would go into limp mode or randomly throw a check engine light with occasional misfires on several cylinders. Replaced MAF sensor, replaced all plugs and coils, had carbon cleaning done, etc. Always issues occurred when engine was warm and around 2,000 RPM. Finally googled the crap out of it and decided to replace the PCV valve and have had a perfectly operating vehicle ever since. Bad PCV was causing tons of downstream problems. Not sure if this is the same with other German vehicles and I haven't watched all of your videos, but just thought I would share.
There is a Xentry test for cam adjuster control. You should do those tests and make sure it is satisfied with the control of each one. I got the Benz Ninja for my setup. There are cheaper ways to do it but you pay him once and then buy the things he recommends and you end up with a WORKING setup that he fully supports. Or you can drive down to RI and I'll hook mine up....
Oh my friend, your pain was palpable. I wish I had been sitting in your garage with you, having an adult beverage or two. You have tried so hard. Even with your struggles, I enjoyed the time with you. I know you are going to come up with something. Thanks for doing what you do.
I had the same issue last month, Multi miss fire only in one side (driver side) I tried everything and the issue didn't go to the other bank. So I opened the valve cover and found out that one of the adjuster plate (the upper one was damaging the Camshaft Adjuster Cover. Creating a hollow ring inside the Camshaft Adjuster Cover) my clue was when I opened the VVT Solenoid I found some aluminum on the screen of the VVT Solenoid. GL and check them out. Fixed my car in Abo Taesser Garage In Jeddah
i`M FAR AWAY FROM BEING EXPERT ON THIS THING BUT I CAN SUMMURISE IN 4 MAIN THINGS :
SELANOID ON WIRING
UNBALANCED POWER SUPPLY
OR SOME MOISTURE IN THE ECU, SINCE IT WAS RAINING THE DAY YOU HAD THE PROBLEM IN THE FIRST HAND
THROTTLE
Check whether the reluctor shifted on the cam. It would basically appear as if your timing is ok but the actual sprocket is not in the correct position on the camshaft as the reluctor shifted.
I’ve had two m156 cars and the engines were superb with adjuster maintenance and one new cam at 70k miles on one bank . One engine threw error codes from a dirty cat so it may be that. I’d also swap out the cam solenoids AND the wiring harness section from them to the ecu .
Hang in there , you will solve it and be even more stoked when you do!
Over here in Britland, one of our ex PMs (Winston Churchill) said “When you’re going through hell, keep going “.
🤙🤙
Get some ignition waveforms and analyze them. Lets see if we are dealing with a spark issue (ECU, wiring ect) or an Air or fuel issue. Shout out to Pine Hollow and ScannerDanner and see if they can't help throw you some clues. Good luck! Cheers!
I was going to say the same thing. With an inexpensive scope, could check spark and injector waveforms, voltages, current, etc.
As a former enjoyer of germanic cars, your pain makes me feel like turning back to my mustang roots was the right call. My heavily modified 08 GT500 runs like a dream.....quickly finding a wood surface to knock....
Finally a new video on the E63 😍😍 Thank you Chris keep up the good work
Since it works with any one of the solenoids disconnected, maybe a wiring or power issue. I don't know how the wiring is but there may be a short in one of the common wires and shorting out the power as soon as it tries to kick in at 1,500. Don't just check the wires to ground, disconnect the wiring to them and check the wires to ground AND to each other, could be shorted together. Or the other common power for the solenoids is probably from the ECU and maybe the ECU is burned up just for that circuit and does not show up on the self built in test. I'm not an AMG guy but I have been working on military and civilian helicopters and jets for 28 years and I have seen some crazy electrical gremlins. Love the videos and love that car too. Good luck man and hope you get it figured out!
Good tip!
Have you changed all the solenoids?
That's what I was wondering, he mentioned that Mercedes changed one but aren't there multiple? I'm no expert by any means.
As a fellow mercedes owner (w219) i feel your pain and some of the simpliest maintenence can be a brutal torture!!! Ive gotten good at swapping out air struts and other air ride components along with those camshaft solenoids and sensors, my last endeavours however were discs and pads on all 4 corners and the p.i.t.a. Motor mounts, my driverside one came out in 2 pieces😂😂😂…..but she runs like a champ and has never let me down ( knock on wood )…….and over the past decade of owning her she definitely paid her stay!!! And we have gotten all of our money’s worth outta her!!!!
We still love them though!
@@ChrisSullivan69 yes we do!!!
Verify that the connector on the fuel pump housing is not burned . Could be that the fuel controller is reporting to ecu an issue and then the ecu triggers misfires as a safety.
idk how I haven't discovered your channel sooner, you have good taste, im a gm Mercedes guy myself, started gm and came into Mercedes later in life, I have a 07 s65 and an 07 c6 z06, and if I had a muscle car it would be a 69 Camaro, my father always drag raced when I was growing, he has his pro mod 63 vette for sale now, guy ran 5.90's but it should run 80's
Try replacing the VVT solenoids if you haven’t already.
I was going to suggest the same. They do go bad, one did on my car. Replace it for immediate fix
Timing is spot on, obviously the adjusters are okay, there is nothing that goes bad with them besides the dreaded wear by the pin
Also, even minor air leaks on these engines can make them act up. I would replace that air duct going into the manifold as well
@@SalehMuniryeah this is what happened on my g37 where it would go into limp mode after 3k rpms
I admire your calmness. I would be so discouraged. Keep us updated. Can’t think of anything that could cause this .
OMG!!! It’s the video we’ve been waiting for. Thank you Chris 🙏🏾
I gotta say, Mercedes content is not really my thing, but I love the channel, and watch all the videos to support it. Keep your head up on this one Chris and keep pumping out great content!
What if you swapped the actuators left to right see ir maybe it follows the issue to the other bank? Also maybe a knock sensor is misinterpreting the harmonics at those rpm’s as misfire? Good luck with it too🙌
It's on both banks so don't think that will make a difference.
After all that hard work and no result, i feel for you mate. Dont give up cant wait for next video
Bump the idle up to 1600 rpm. Problem solved
lmao i love it
ahahaahahahahahahaaaaaaaaaa
Never thought I would see so many LSC comments in one comment section. Glad everyone knows who he is tho. Great creator and both him and Chris would be a fantastic collab
I had a similarly extremely irritating misfire problem..........turns out it was a fuel delivery issue. I don't know what controls the fuel pressure on that fancy motor, but maybe it's similar.
I remembered the original video or two about 2 or 3 weeks ago and I searched for 15 minutes to find this channel to see if a part 2 was ever uploaded just to find out it wasnt lol. Funny that its up now. I seen it on my FYP like 2 or 3 days ago but Ive been busy so here I am now
Hi, German cars Specialist here.
I would stop throwing random parts on it and tackle the specifics.
1- Check continuity of wires from related modules to connectors.
2- Check related grounds. Even though you car seems clean, parking outside and using it on snowy environment can cause a plethora of oxidation issues.
3- Fix the 5v related issue. As people stated, this line is the way the can network validate stuff like sensors and so on. BMW call it lin line.
4- If you fix these errors and solenoid still popping up, switch'em.
5- Check solenoid physical actuation. It might not be getting the oil pressure it needs to operate.
6- All related cam adjusting, camshaft positioning, electrical and mechanical stuff checked, there's some other suggestions that I would make:
Your misfire comes from the car rising up rpm, probably even mechanically adjusting the cam pulleys, but the ECU doesn't see's it and, doesn't adjust injection accordingly.
So, your car is breathing more than it should, and not getting enough fuel due a lack of proper sensor reading. Misfire is a too lean situation.
The camshaft adjustable pulleys, like BMW Vanos, works the other way around of common peoples thought. These camshaft advances occurs on low rpm, fixing the problem of a higher lobe camshaft that allow you to breath happily for power. They are accountable for its low end torque as well. 1300, 1500rpm might be the higher engagement point of these pulleys, and for that reason, the most correction an injection system would have to make. With your error, the disparities are too great and a lean situation happens.
Other stuff that could cause this same situation is a defective throttle body. Saw it onetime it reporting correctly to the ECU, but in real case it was defective, opening more then it should, causing the lean situation. Normally it would throw a dash light for that, and in some cases you lose the throttle action for security reasons.
Last but not least, any intake boot air leak past MAF sensors could cause the lean situation, and sensors reporting out of range.
Hope it helps you find the issue.
Cheers!
All good tips. I think ive ruled out a leak past the MAF, but need to verify other things. Hoping Xentry helps me with this
@@ChrisSullivan69throttle plate issue. Check for corrosion
Chris, you should do a compression test and/or cylinder leak down test. To check the overall health and condition of the motor. You may or may not be experiencing a burnt/bent valve, valve/head issue, or even piston ring leakage, etc. I would do that first before attempting anything else or even throwing different parts, more money and your valuable time at it. Hope that little bit helps!
Reach out to modern masters auto they are in PA they do these all day long
Modern Masters is literally assembling a 6.3 engine from the block and is going through each step for the cams from start to the cam plates at the end in their latest video just now. Maybe ensure his work and your work mirrored to help rule out a step missed where the problem could be coming from.
Oil pressure issue
Probably getting excess bleed off pressure from worn valve lifters
Looks like that’s a common issue on those motors I.E. class action lawsuit
Chris replace the lifters a year ago lol I doubt they worn out
Potential fixes:
Ignition System:
Replace spark plugs and/or ignition coils as needed.
Ensure spark plug gaps match manufacturer specifications.
Fuel System:
Clean or replace clogged fuel injectors.
Replace the fuel filter and test the fuel pump.
Air System:
Fix any detected vacuum leaks.
Clean or replace the MAF sensor and EGR valve if necessary.
Timing and Sensors:
Replace faulty crankshaft or camshaft position sensors.
Check and fix camshaft adjuster solenoids if variable valve timing is problematic.
Internal Engine:
Clean carbon deposits with a decarbonizing treatment.
If compression is low, engine repairs (e.g., valve job or piston replacement) may be needed.
RUclipsrs Pine hollow auto diagnostics and or diagnoseDan can 100% solve this issue
I've been dealing with things like this on my 25 year old Volvo V70R. These problems are so euro... feel your pain brother. Don't give up. You got this.
I saw you mentioned watching the oscilloscope readings for the 02’s, if your gonna be running the oscilloscope I’d recommend scoping the cam adjuster solenoids. If you know one bank is known good you can record the waves along with the high and low voltage points for that than compare it to the other one. If the issues goes away when you unplug the solenoid it more than likely seems like an electrical issue. The oscilloscope might be able to confirm that. If you are seeings some out of wack wave lengths and voltage readings than you could be having issues from the engines computer, before you replace that though you could run an overlay harness to basically rule out any issues between the computer and the solenoid
Such a sharp car makes me want a Benz to daily
Watching someone as mechanically inclined as Chris struggle to fix a misfire makes you want to daily one of these ?😂
I like this guy
@@ryanmartell9470haha you raise a valid point. I feel his pain big time just had to send my pcm out for testing on my mustang after weeks of trouble shooting. Thankfully enough I got a work rig so don’t need a daily daily lol
@@ChrisSullivan69 would like to see what you do with the other German V8 in the e92 M3 👀
Int thinking it's got to be within the ME itself. You mentioned early on that it had headers and a tune. I'd at least go for a re-flash/tune. The 18 misfires in such short order makes zero sense.
I had a similarly odd issue at my shop with a W210 that would go absolutely nuts at around 2k rpm. Checked absolutely everything. It turned out the customer had the M.E. sent off and "rebuilt". Swapped and programmed another and ran perfectly.
You've trouble shot it inside and out, I absolutely suspect the M.E., or at least the tune.
Excellent, thorough diagnostics by the way. I'd have followed the same path as yourself.
Ask Legit Street Cars
I'm confident it's got to be your lash adjusters and it makes since. When you are in lower rpms you javelin lower oil pressure so if you have a lash adjuster that is bad this is when it would show. When your rpms get high oil pressure goes up and is high enough to pressure build in the bad lash adjuster. I really hope that this would be the problem and at this point it's the only thing you haven't addressed. Good luck I would love to see you finally figure it out.
Quite a conundrum. I have one suggestion, maybe it sounds stupid but it will cost you nothing and is fast to test. Try removing the X-pipe and check if missfires reoccurs. It is possible that exhaust gasses from the one bank are disturbing the operation of other bank? Really stabbing in the dark here, but just maybe? Anyway good luck with fixing your beautiful E63.
I had the same issue with a c300 2013. It was misfiring on cylinder 1,2 and 3, left side of the engine. I couldn’t let it sit when the engine was warm, had to shift it on neutral and keep the rpm to 1000-1200, otherwise it would get on limp mode. After changing everything on it, sparks, coils O2 sensors, camshaft adjusters, injectors, I got an used ECU and clone it. Car worked fine since then.
Try and talk to Alex at legit street cars.
Alex is too busy flappin his mouth and woo wooing like a girl....
I was just going to suggest that as well.
Chris, I know everyone is saying to replace the alternator but I would do the voltage regulator first. I did it in my E320 OM 648 solved my voltage issue.
Maybe this also needs a clutch
Lmao that's next on the list
😂
Your comedic effect is what keeps me coming back, keep it up dude!
Appreciate it! Thanks for watching 💪
Car guy life: I love this car!
What's the problem now?
(struggle to diagnose/fix) &%@$ing car, I hate this thing!
(finds fix) I love this car!
Its an endless circle
I've been daily'ing my 2010 e63 for months now and i love it! Lets get this thing going again!
Alright, we all know what must be done now Chris...
#LSswap
In HP tuners make RPM vs MAP graphs that have: angle des/act, custom math for error of des/act…. Drive around and fill in the table. See what the cams are doing on the road.
If you get help from LSC on the MB, please don’t take his advise on his video formats lol. He has deviated from the golden car RUclips channel video format. This is one reason why I classify your channel above his. He use to use the golden format a few year back, but now he just posts videos with too much of him talking or trying to be funny or odd. Not my cup of tea
"Ah, yes, the 'golden format'-where the cars talk and the host just stands there in silent reverence. Truly a lost art form. Maybe next time he’ll just mime the specs to keep it pure for the connoisseurs."
@@daleyfamily2179 Chris is doing it right. Perfect amount of background info, jokes sprinkled in, Timelapses with music, ride along car clips, diagnostic information. LSC has moved away from this and decided to do a nearly nonstop video of him talking. Sometimes useful information but most of the time pointless thoughts that pop in his head. I think the LSC channel hype has gotten to him. He use to do video formats similar to Chris style. Not anymore. I am pointing out that I prefer Chris style videos over LSC new style
Love all your videos and the hard work you put in fixing the Cobra. This Mercedes seems to be a real pain though. My advice would be to run a lab scope on the cam actuators and look for irregularities in the wave form on its reference voltage and also for any power bleeding over into its ground circuit. The scope we use at my shop is made by Autel and works with their scan tool so you can read 4 signals at a time. (perfect for DOHC) Maybe a friend of yours has one you can borrow or talk with Autel to get a demo scan tool and scope setup. Running the oscilloscope will give much more precise data than a basic scan tool data livestream (more samples per millisecond) and allow you to see exactly how the circuit is malfunctioning in real time. I hope this helps and thanks for all the great content.
Oh man.....we all SOOOO feel for you!! I would MUCH rather something just completely break so I can repair it!! Keep at it Chris!! I know you've seen these comments but Alex at Legit Street Cars might be some help.
Are you seeing a voltage drop to the coils at the affected rpm range? The fact that it’s both banks and random has me questioning sufficient voltage to either your coil packs or injectors during misfire. Take your dmm and check for voltage drop to either. Possibly even oscilloscope both as well to make sure they’re in range.
Keep going Chris - you motivate the rest of us to put in the extra work and we believe in you
I appreciate that!
Everyone reccomended you reach out to Alex, might be a great idea and might make for an awesome video!
Perhaps horsepower tuners is not showing you everything.
Maybe hook up a scanner from a buddy?
Come on Chris, don't let the car get you down.
I bet you it will be a small stupid issue.
You got it!
Hey Chris! i’m no where near a mercedes tech and i really don’t have any experience around them, but i think i have an idea. so the cam shaft adjustment SENSOR has to be a plug in like you said in your video. you unplugged it and it ran fine. MAYBE you and the techs over looked the inside of the sensor itself and one of the prongs are just shorting out on the cam shaft adjustment. it might be obvious but it could be one of those moments where you checked everything but that.
Hey Chris, I just saw your video about the E-Class and enjoyed it. Great video. Don't give up. It is a great car. You will fix it, I am confident. Bring up the next video about the E-Class. Waiting for it!
I think like others about electrical issues. It's not mechanical for sure. Engine do is thing right but ECU see something wrong. You do everything mechanical. Try to found the colored electrical diag, and understand how the cam position system work. Than pok into wire near the cam position sensor to see if you have all signal like power ground and 5 V reference. They exist some needle tool for that.If you found something wrong break down the system to connector and found where it's good from there trace down wire to found the faulty wire. Im surprised MB didn't do this. They jump on the well know issues the cam phaser. Good luck.
Only a few minutes in and I'm screaming fuel pump or fuel delivery. Oh, I forgot it runs well most of the time. I thought it was a crank no start because it's been so long. Now I'm thinking oil in the wiring harness screwing up the cam position sensor readings, during a specific RPM range. You may be able to graph all four cam positions and see if it glitches at 1500. Ideally this is a job for an oscilloscope. I know you checked the ECU but check the individual harness plugs for oil (cam solenoids and position sensors).
I recently fought an issue with a family member’s 750li where it would have a random misfire on throttle and occasionally, shutdown the car. Changed coils, plugs, filters, you name it. Ended up being the FPCM
Good job Chris... I'm sure you will figure it out. Good Luck
Thanks 👍
You've pretty much covered everything, the only other thing I can think of is you might have forgotten to reconnect the lil ground wire that connects to the left bank phaser solenoid housing when you had it apart, that and maybe when you had the intake manifold apart and removed the throttle body plate you might have loosened the throttle body connections there, I've seen some wonky shit when either of those are loose.
Unplugging the solenoids is only putting the engine in a predetermined map that ignores everything for the engine to run, don't let that lead you down a rabbit hole, you gotta look elsewhere it's not that.
Starting to realize that. Might have nothing to do with the adjusters
I can feel the frustration Chris!! There has to be something in the control side. It could be a stupid wire short that when the system calls for cam phasing it shorts and causes an issue! I should say I have no idea about anything MB, but it sure isn’t mechanical!
I did my '09 E63 last yr after watching your and another fellas video. Has me worried. Only critique (hate being that guy) is that the crank is @40 degrees AFTER dead center. Good luck.
This is true. Good news is, tool on the back of the cams only fits if it's after TDC 🤙
With everything you have tried I would start looking into the ECU, these are known to have some failure points due to the heat these engines produce in the bay and their positioning. I would reach out to Josh at The Mercedes Swap Shop and see if he is familiar with any scenarios like this. * Also make sure you do the re-learn procedure for cam adjusters after installing * most decent scan tools can do this or STAR setup if you have... and second edit... The only other thing aside from ECU i'd look at would be the cam solenoids themselves or their connectors/wiring.. GOOD LUCK man, I know how frustrating these types of scenarios are!
Came across you channel when I was looking for E63 content. Felt the pain in your eyes man. I haven't spent that much time on something for it not to work but I bet it hurts. Hope you get this sorted.
Ill get it sorted. Sure is frustrating tho. Thanks for watching!
+1 for Alex and legit street cars. Perfect collab opportunity!
Hello, my name is Grady. I always wanted a Mercedes E63 2011 model and I'm looking eventually I will get one. This is what I come across that might help you just under each of the cam. Adjuster is a camshaft sensor I hear that they go bad and cause The entire left bank or right bank to show a misfire. I hear that's a common thing that happens and not too expensive to replace camshaft hall sensor. Look it up.
At the start of this video I was thinking ‘solenoid’. At the end of the video I’m still thinking solenoid. I know the garage said they swapped one, but I’d still double check - especially the exhaust solenoid - plus it’s a lot simpler to verify than an ECU!
This. He ruled out all the questions I had except that one. Plus, why is the pin spinning inside the cam adjuster?
Home from work and it's time to unwind and enjoy the best content on RUclips. Good luck brother, I'm watching with fingers crossed.
🤙🤙🤙
My thought is you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Check the rubber lines that connects to the air box. Also check the 90 degree elbows on the purge valve as well as the whole vent line. Best of luck
That 6.2 is just a big coyote 😂 I just did the phasers in my 2011 5.0 while installing my TVS blower, it's kind of soothing work imo
No the coyote is just a small 6.2
@@edgarsantos8030 gracias for the correction amigo! The 6.2 is just a bigger TERMINATOR motor, how's that sound?
Scope your camshaft sensors for strange behavior at the specific rpm. And check if they are original Mercedes.
When you finally figure this out it’ll be some stupid, simple, god damn pissy litte effin’ part and then you’ll laugh and fall in love again LOL!!! Keep goin Chris. I KNOW you’ll nail this down. Thanks for putting together more great video for us. 👊🏻
its always something simple lol
Not sure if you've done it already but I would first do a STAR calibration of the cam adjusters and lastly replace the cam solenoids.