Good video, did the same thing on my 2004 9-5 a few years ago and with 170000 on it and the pan was fairly clean and no sludge also. GM did a good job fixing the sludge problem.
Remember to only use Loctite 518 or something similar as other sealants could cause excessive sealant to come of inside the engine and clogging oil passages. The Loctite one only cures when it looses access to oxygen, which means any excess sealant will only be washed away by the oil and come out the next oil change.
For the rust on the frame/subframe i took a 3"wire wheel to it with my drill. Works really well. Then i just put some motor oil on a rag and wipe it down.
Thanks for showing this Kyle i have done the same on my two 9-5s 07s and they looked great hard seals replaced, also inspected the turbo while i had the exhaust down and everyting looked great aswell.
Looks good. Mine had only a few specks of debris after 100 000 miles, model year 2001 and it had the pcv done as per SAAB released the updates. It had oil changes done every 6-7 thousand miles.
Hi Kyle, I have been chasing oil leaks on my sons 2007 9-5. I replaced PVC kit (complete), valve cover gaskets, front crack shaft seal, oil pump seal, oil tension seals, and dropped and cleaned the oil pan (really not much crud at all). Anyways, as I have everything back together I sort of want to try to figure out why it was leaking from all these spots and I feel like it has high crankshaft pressure. Silicone glove stands up on oil filler tube. I checked the compression in each cylinder and they are all about 200 psi so I feel there is no issue with rings…. You seem to have quite the experience with Saabs so was wondering if you may have any thoughts or suggestions? Thx in advance
Hi Kyle, Videos are great. I have a 2008, European Saab 95 wagon, 2.L bio power model. The AC has just stopped blowing cold air. Would you have any tips on where to start looking for the cause of the problem ? Thanks, Ian
Check for leak. If there is pressure in system, can be a back compressor. Low psi. Something internal on hvac Also make sure ambient temp sensor is running. Car runs hvac off that too
To Make Saab Quicker and better balanced it's Good Idea to move More weight to the back and basically remove some weight from it, they are heavy for what they are :)
Looks very good. But it is not only due to redesign done by saab. It is very important to use proper quality oil and maintain the car. In Europe it is common to use long life service schedule and it kills this engine. Regards
Good video, did the same thing on my 2004 9-5 a few years ago and with 170000 on it and the pan was fairly clean and no sludge also. GM did a good job fixing the sludge problem.
awesome!
GM didn’t do shit…
Remember to only use Loctite 518 or something similar as other sealants could cause excessive sealant to come of inside the engine and clogging oil passages. The Loctite one only cures when it looses access to oxygen, which means any excess sealant will only be washed away by the oil and come out the next oil change.
Good news engine internals are clean!! Congrats Kyle!
Keep the content coming Kyle! Great inspiration for the rest of us Saab fans!
For the rust on the frame/subframe i took a 3"wire wheel to it with my drill. Works really well. Then i just put some motor oil on a rag and wipe it down.
Thanks bro epic video as always 👍👍👍🔥
Thanks for showing this Kyle i have done the same on my two 9-5s 07s and they looked great hard seals replaced, also inspected the turbo while i had the exhaust down and everyting looked great aswell.
Looks good. Mine had only a few specks of debris after 100 000 miles, model year 2001 and it had the pcv done as per SAAB released the updates. It had oil changes done every 6-7 thousand miles.
awesome! well maintained
It did seem right, but I hope you didnt use silicon gasket for the pan or for anything. Only use GM original sealing.
or anaerobic sealant from elring or 3M
Kyle, did you follow the WIS or were there steps you took that helped bypass some of those steps?
Hi Kyle, I have been chasing oil leaks on my sons 2007 9-5. I replaced PVC kit (complete), valve cover gaskets, front crack shaft seal, oil pump seal, oil tension seals, and dropped and cleaned the oil pan (really not much crud at all). Anyways, as I have everything back together I sort of want to try to figure out why it was leaking from all these spots and I feel like it has high crankshaft pressure. Silicone glove stands up on oil filler tube. I checked the compression in each cylinder and they are all about 200 psi so I feel there is no issue with rings…. You seem to have quite the experience with Saabs so was wondering if you may have any thoughts or suggestions? Thx in advance
He Said PCV!!!! 👍👍👍
hahahaha
Why not use an oil pan gasket? I’m only curious because my oil pan is leaking like crazy and I need to change it asap
Hi Kyle, Videos are great. I have a 2008, European Saab 95 wagon, 2.L bio power model. The AC has just stopped blowing cold air. Would you have any tips on where to start looking for the cause of the problem ?
Thanks,
Ian
Check for leak. If there is pressure in system, can be a back compressor. Low psi. Something internal on hvac
Also make sure ambient temp sensor is running. Car runs hvac off that too
Nice job, the music is super annoying and redundant though
To Make Saab Quicker and better balanced it's Good Idea to move More weight to the back and basically remove some weight from it, they are heavy for what they are :)
Looks very good. But it is not only due to redesign done by saab. It is very important to use proper quality oil and maintain the car. In Europe it is common to use long life service schedule and it kills this engine. Regards
Yes!!! 5k mile intervals full synthetic
Sounds like the water pump is on its way out.
flipping SMASHING
Help!! I have a saab 2008 9-5 2.3 and no tran dipstick
Is 04,05,06 9 5s good to have? I have 99 with 122K working on the leaks...LOL
Where r u location
Northern jersey