I totally agree that the instructions that are in the manual are confusing and even wrong. I followed them precisely and ended up sprayed with hydraulic oil. This video clarified the process entirely. Thank you!
Thank you for taking the time to record and post this video. This is excellent. I completed these instructions just minutes ago. Without these video instructions, I would never have been able to accomplish the initial addition of hydraulic oil and bleeding the attached ten-ton jack. I would like to add just a few minor things I discovered while following these instructions as well as I was able: 1 I worked a long time twisting the plug out of the oil fill hole. I found that steadily pulling while twisting finally worked. 2. Use a funnel whose neck is at least one inch long and whose diameter is clearly smaller than the diameter of the oil fill hole. The cylinder will fill completely without the formation of an air/oil bubble at the fill hole. 3. The contents of a 12-ounce bottle of hydraulic oil is just slightly more than required to fill the cylinder completely. 4. As described in the video, the plug is nearly impossible to re-insert after filling the cylinder with hydraulic fluid. I found that closing the Handle Wheel and pumping several strokes on the handles allowed a small air bubble to flow to the oil fill hole that also created just enough room for the plug to be fully inserted again. 5. After bleeding according to instructions on the video, opened the Handle Wheel to contract the cylinder ram. Then I closed the Handle Wheel and pumped several stroked on both handles. When I pushed the small screwdriver against the filler plug shaft, a rather large air bubble escaped.
I TOTALLY AGREE WITH PEOPLE WHO ARE SAYING THANK YOU. I've been trying to get my neighbors working for her and turns out I've probably been making it worse rather than fixed. Thanks for your time and help.
I lost the rubber plug and I filled with oil and put a piece of ductape on it. It is working fine but when I go to store it not sure what to do to keep the oil in. Any ideas?
I bought my HF splitter 2 years ago. I was barely getting about an eighth of an inch of push from the large piston. After watching your video, I felt confident to adjust my splitter. Works great now. As soon as I start to pump the handle, I can feel that it is pushing the log. Thank you.
Great tutorial video, buddy. I completed the job in 10 minutes following your instructions step by step. Now, on the hunt for spare plugs and anything else that can give up. ALWAYS have spare parts! Thanks again!
Thanx for the demonstration. I got a Sun Joe from Facebook Marketplace. I contacted Sun Joe support...no response. Glad I knew it needed lubrication but didn't know where to put the fluid and what type. I'm back in stride again thanks to you. Great job.
Second time watching to bone up before my second time adding fluid and bleeding. I like this splitter a lot better than an electric with half the tonnage but use both handles together to advance and let the "soft" handle go once I get pressure. Once I pop thru and have less resistance I pick back up the faster handle and continue with both. Probably the most detailed video on this subject, thank you for posting.
well done; the best explanation I've found. Sadly, mine was empty because the main seal has failed, and I'll have to find a video showing how to disassemble and replace that seal.
I also had the main seal fail and faulty poles. The poles went straight through the holder and hit the springs. I think my Harbor freight had a few duds or something....
I've been having air issues, in the larger hydraulic cinder of my harbor freight log splitter, i tried bleeding it with no success :( But after watching your video, I used a small screw driver to push in on the rubber plug and immediately air came out and just like that...it started working perfectly. Thank you for taking the time to post this video..
Have you ever had it where you pushed it out too far and then it wont retract? I extended it just to the log supports. Then, like i said, it wouldn't retract on its own. I can pound it back. It was my first log so im about to just take it back, but wondered if you or anyone had experienced this.
@@stuttgurth Possibly you have too much oil in the cylinder. I've had this problem before. I didn't try to bleed out the extra oil (if that was the cause). If I recall correctly, when this happened about 2 years ago, I think it worked itself out after splitting wood for a while, possibly because over time, oil gradually leaked out. See my reply further up this queue..
This vid is great and gives me hope that I can revive my old splitter almost identical to yours. Though i just ordered a new one, I'm going to spend some time trying to revive to keep a back up splitter or for the missus ... yes I'm terribly romantic. Thanks for posting this.
Air is coming out of the screw that releases the piston and allows it to retract? If so, just need to turn that clockwise. If some other screw, no, air shouldn't be coming out.
I've been having a heck of a time getting mine to bleed. I topped up the oil while it was laying on a flat surface, pumped the rams a bit till air/slop is noticed then let a little out, and continued that till it the ram was fully extended. But when I turn the relief valve to let the ram retract it'll get about half way or so then the smaller pump cylinder will fully extend as if all the air went straight to it. Once the main ram fully retracts far it'll go (all but a few inches like yours did) I let some air out till the smaller cylinder was able to be pushed back without it wanting to extend back out by itself. But then soon as I try to use it to make sure all the air it out it'll start acting up again.
Great video. Instead of splitting like a cross country ski I used to move them both forward at the same time hoping that I would get the 3/8 movement instead of the 1/4 off the one side and 1/8 off the other, but alas it will only move 1/4 inch max.
I know what you're talking about with trying to get the benefit of moving both arms at the same time. I haven't measured to see if there's any difference when I do both versus just the one. Will try that this afternoon as I have a lot of wood left to split still...
Nice video. I would suggest keeping your fingers away from the “split” when removing the log. If there is still tension causing log to want to return to un-split position your fingers might be in for a surprise. 😢
@@FixEverythingYourself Certainly did - our logsplitter does OT since we have a local tree lopper/feller and his crew who drops off free loads for us. All we've got to do is split it and stack it for a year. So, this being the first time it had failed...your vid was just the thing. We'll have to look at some of your other vids. Keep that good advice coming.
There are 3 or 4 one way ball valves in these machines and a couple are at the bottom of the main jack cylinder. I think one of those is jammed open on mine. The left hand lever advances the ram but retracts the same amount when I let go of the lever. The right hand lever still works OK but it makes the operation very slow if I can only use that.
@@markwhite9545 No, I just use the slow lever but can do one stroke of the fast one when the log is about to split. I don't have the right tools to unscrew the cylinder from the jack casting.
Thanks for doing the video. Most helpful. My 10 ton log splitter made by Central Machine is leaking. Just wanted to know if you new where to find replacement o-rings. Tried harbor freight and the local hardware stores. Checked the harbor freight catalog could only find 5 ton replacement parts.
Sorry, I haven't replaced any of those parts and don't know where to get them if Harbor Freight doesn't have them. I do know that Lowes or HD or another store sells this same splitter but under a different brand name ("Sun Joe"?). So perhaps you could check there.
How do you fix this problem where you have a leak at the bottom of the grey metal that goes in and out where you use those two metal handles to push and pull back??? I don’t know if i made myself clear. Asking cause I borrowed it and I don’t wanna bring it back to my friend with that leak going on
I think you're referring to the smooth metal cylinders (pistons) that the long arms push in and out. Those are what create the hydraulic pressure to extend the ram and split the wood. There's nothing you can do to fix a leak there other than take it apart, get a new seal, etc. There's nothing you did to create the leak, I'm sure, it's just a location where leaks happen.
I could have chopped a hundred of logs that diameter by hand in the amount of time it took to watch this video not to sound like a hero but I understand how some may find it useful to have a machine.i guess not everyone is able to swing a hatchet eiether.great presentation though.thanks
Mine is stuck in the extended position. It won’t retract when I open the valve. It also won’t pump up anymore. The levers are hard to move and hear what sounds like a pressurized hiss coming from inside the jack when I pump the levers. The oil level is a little low, but not enough to prevent the unit from working prior to it getting stuck. Do you have any suggestions?
Occasionally, mine will get stuck in the extended position if I extend it to the max length (to the metal stops). When that happens, I take a big piece of firewood and whack the end of the ram until it retracts. I've never had a problem beyond that. I'm not sure what's causing the hissing sound. Maybe it will go away if you can get the ram to retract?
@@FixEverythingYourself Thank you for the suggestion and the quick reply! I got this unit used and I don’t know what kind of oil is in it. Should I drain out the oil that is in there or is it ok to just top it off with hydraulic oil?
@@FixEverythingYourself How far until it started to retract on its own. I instinctively did this, got it about halfway back and it still wont retract the rest. Because it was the first log i split, I was figuring just take it back and not mess. Maybe i'll wack it a bit mroe.
This was very helpful... Ive been trying to see if there is any differences between this and name brand.. Not I need to see if the refill plug is a screw in metal plug as it should be or if its this crappy rubber thing.. Reason being,, that rubber plug will prevent you from doing much larger logs. Too pressure and the plug will pop.. that probably why you are constantly having to add oil
Yeah, I don't know why they use this rubber plug. A screw would've been so much easier. Interestingly, the splitter works with or without the plug installed.
@@FixEverythingYourself I am working on one of these for a friend. I am going to try the whole full and bleed process with the rubber plug out. I love that you suggest keeping the fill hole as high as possible. Great suggestion, but I don’t think you need to put the rubber plug in until after the air is cleared of the piston. I mean. There’s gonna be some air in the system, but it should stay near the top of the system (just under the plug). It’s when the air gets trapped below that that this seems to be a problems. I would suggest to people to keep the unit laying flat and never tip it up on end. Another video suggests pumping the handles while the release valve is open. He says the air can then flow past the release valve. Your video is great, but possibly a second one with info on how NOT to let the air get down lower into the cylinder would be great. Thank you. I have to go to my friends house before I can report back to you. Thanks!
Great video. My plug split and doesn’t work anymore. I contacted the distributor but no help there. I’ve tried a 1/4 and a 3/8 expansion plug. Too small and too large. Looks to be metric. I ordered a few tapered rubber stoppers. If that doesn’t work, I’m out of ideas. Anybody have any more ideas? Wherever you see “I” in this post it should say “my wife” (but I really did type this post.) However, she made me do it.
Is there no way to not use a rubber washer that will just eventually break down and or need to be replaced? Any way to put in a metal plug or screw into that?
Well, mine has a jagged hole so I'd need to drill it clean and round, then tap threads in. That would produce a bunch of metal shavings that I'd need to keep out of the cylinder. Possible, but a pain. But would be much better than the rubber plug that came with it.
In order to pull the plug out, if unable to pull it out by hand, I hook the claw of a hammer onto the plug, then place my finger on the top of the plug to keep firmly pressed to the inside of the claw. Pressing on the top of the plug against the inside of the hammer claw, keeps the plug from slipping through the claw. I then gently pull the plug out with some twisting motion. I tried placing the plug in the freezer for at least 10 minutes, to help with inserting the plug, but the plug warms up too fast. I was able to get the plug in by pressing on the top of the plug with a hammer as shown, but did not use a screw driver to push the bottom of the plug in. Instead I used a 1/8" diameter metal rod to push in the plug along the side of the plug. I had tried using the head of a nail held in a vice-grip to push in the plug, but the nail kept twisting to the side. Perhaps it wouldn't twist if I kept the vice grip tighter on the nail, but I didn't want to risk puncturing the plug with a screw driver. I do agree that contrary to what the manual states, it is better to start with the piston fully retracted. When adding oil, the piston was fully retracted. Then I used either lever handle to push the piston forward a couple inches. This allowed me add a bit more oil, and then when I released the piston, and a bit of oil spilled out through the hole, and got rid of some air that way. A couple times, I got so too much oil in in the cylinder so that the I could advance the piston all the way, but it would not retract the last 3 or so inches. As I recall, the last time I added oil, after splitting wood for a while, some leakage of the oil finally allowed the piston to retract all the way.
You're right, it's not threaded. I'd like to do that but seems like a hassle, and I'd need to keep metal chips out of the cylinder while tapping the hole. Poor design, in my opinion.
Watched a "How NOT to fill your HF 10 Ton log splitter" video last year. They extended out the ram, then filled the bottle. :) Needless to say, when it retracted... oil everywhere...
No, I don't do anything else. I think some other viewers made comments on what they do but I haven't had any need to do anything else. And even the wax doesn't do a lot
My HF splitter worked great initially but now seems to be leaking pressure when it encounters a tough log. The piston moves forward as you pump, but when you stop it slacks back to where it started from. It seems to be leaking psu back through the shut off valve. Any fix for that? If I split an easier straight grained log there's no problem, but I had a nasty oak log with a limb joint in it that we had to use multiple wedges on to get it to split. And can oil be added through the shut off valve easier? I unscrewed mine and though the piston was almost all the way back when I removed the valve stem from the opening there was a slight puff of pressure and the piston moved all the way back a fraction of an inch. I thought since the valve stem opening is higher than the rubber plug it may be a better place to add oil and bleed air. Or not?
The piston seals are bad about rupturing on these. After replacing the main seal three times I cut and made a seal out of a automotive radiator hose and no more problems.
Does it matter the brand hydraulic fluid? My neighbor up the street just threw hers out. I asked if I could have it and she said yes. I just brought it home about five minutes ago. Just re-watched your video on how to get it running again. It has absolutely no movement of the cylinder. I'm going to get some hydraulic fluid and tinker with it. The worse thing if I can't get it to work is to put it on craigslist for a pick up curbside. But, it's practically new and it was garage kept. I'm figuring she had the same issue with not enough fluid and never bled it.
@@FixEverythingYourself Thanks. I'm just hoping it's not a seal. The thing looks like it came out of the box. I watched your other video on how to use this splitter. People commenting said that many of theirs didn't come with hydraulic oil in it. I'm assuming this may be the same issue. If I get it working I just might give it back to her. She fosters kids and they're great kids in the neighborhood. Does a great job with them. So, just something nice to do for her. Wish me luck getting it working.
Great. Would be nice if it just needed oil. And yeah, would be good to just give it back considering how simple the problem might be. Let me know how it turns out!
The splitter I picked up from my neighbor didn’t have any oil in it. I added oil and it started working. I had to bleed it a couple times like you suggest. I asked them if they wanted it back. They said no. So I added oil and started splitting right away. All I paid for was the oil. When I say empty, it was dry inside.
Great video on how to bleed this splitter. I have a question, though. Mine will not retract at all. You would think with those springs pulling, it would come back, but it won't. Any idea what the problem is? Thank You!!
@@FixEverythingYourself Yes. I've had this splitter for about 8 years. It just started doing this. It does it when I fully extend it. Some times it will retract, other times it won't. I had to turn it verticle and use a small bottle jack to push it back. Once I start applying some pressure on bottle jack, it will then retract. As long as I don't fully extend it, no problem with it retracting back.
Mine will occasionally get stuck if I let it go ALL the way to the end. It always retracts after opening the valve and banging on it with a heavy piece of wood. I don't have that problem if I keep it a fraction of an inch short of full extension.
I'm referring to the round knob on the top at the back end of the splitter. Turn that counterclockwise to release the piston, the twist it clockwise to close.
The piston only extends a few inches after it had been working fine. I'm hoping for suggestions as to cause and if there are any good instructions for rebuilding if necessary. TIA
I think it's possible but difficult. My plug hole is completely jagged, so I'd have to clean up the hole first, then tap it. To prevent metal shavings getting in the hole, you'd have to shove a rag in there prior to doing any of that, and that would be challenging to get it out without leaving shavings. Or do the work with the splitter upside-down? I'm not sure it's worth the effort. Just my opinion.
Hi! I watched your other video reviewing this log splitter, I ended up getting one yesterday. How often do you change/fill up hydrolic oil on yours? And how do you tell when it's time to add oil? Thank you!
I never change the oil. I only add oil if I've noticed a large amount leak out (unusual) or the splitter isn't operating correctly and I check the level. If the ram isn't extending normally or the arms don't seem to produce the same ram action as usual, I may check the oil. But typically, oil level will stay good for a while if there are no leaks.
@@FixEverythingYourself followed everything as you stated in this video, everything went smooth for me with my new log splitter. I appreciate you taking the time for making these videos, also answering my questions! Thank you!
Hmmm, it shouldn't be leaking if it's new. Even then, it should go a while before the seals begin to leak. If it's an old splitter and only leaking a small amount, it's probably not a concern. If it's leaking a lot and/or the splitter isn't operating, that's a problem.
There are O rings in those pumps and they do wear out. Mine also leaks but I've not been able to get the correct thickness of O ring. I have a box of assorted O rings but the ones of the correct diameter are too thin.
Say you have it where the splitter splits fine but doesn’t retract? Something wrong with the piston or something not letting it come back. I have to hit the end to get it to retractu
I just grabbed another log and whacked the end of the ram and it retracted. Happens occasionally if I extend it too far. Also happens if there's no resistance from the log that remains in the splitter. Usually, the log itself pushes back against the ram and allows it to retract.
Thanks for the great video. I strangely love this stupid tool. It actually provides a good upper body workout...with the satisfaction of splitting and popping wood! The manual is worthless to describe adding fluid and bleeding..
A few questions... did you add oil? Did you elevate the back edge of it a couple of inches before adding oil? Was the ram retracted before adding oil? Unless there's a leak in a seal or some other malfunction, these steps plus the bleeding procedure should work. You can also try leaving the plug out temporarily and see if that works when operating the splitter. Just make sure to retract it very slowly or oil will get everywhere. If it works with the plug out, you must not be quite doing something right during the bleeding process.
I just replace one seal today the small one but tomorrow I will check the oil level This is my 3rd year with it I used good for the past 2 years Thank you so much I try out tomorrow again good night 😴
Did you say it came without any oil in it? I just picked one up today and after splitting the first log, it’s now stuck in the extended position. The HF cust service guy told be to just exchange it. But I hope they don’t ship these dry. The instructions didn’t say anything about adding oil before using it.
Mine came completely empty. How far is yours extended? Is it all the way to those tabs that are welded on the side about 12 inches out? Mine sometimes gets stuck if I accidentally extend it to that point and I have to whack it hard a few times with a big piece of wood to get it to retract. But it always retracts, so give that a try if you haven't already.
@@FixEverythingYourself thanks - it’s not all the way extended and still stuck. Also tried to hit it to move it back but no luck. How did you know it had no oil? Did you pull the rubber plug to look before using it? I don’t believe they are supposed to ship these empty.
I tried using it right out of the box before checking the oil. The ram wouldn't extend at all. Thats when I pulled the rubber plug and saw it was empty.
@@FixEverythingYourself ah, okay - do you recall how much oil it took? The HF tech said he thought it was 32 ozs but that seems like a lot for that size pump jack.
Hmmm. I really don't recall how much it took but it does feel like it was probably less than 32 oz. Just guessing from memory - it was probably between 16 and 32 oz. Have you added any oil? I wonder if adding oil and operating it some might help break it loose? And yes, the instructions were terrible, which is what prompted me to do a video.
We ordered these replacement plugs, and they seem to be working so far, after a 2 hour log splitting session. They fit very well, but time will tell. You get 20 plugs for $10 on Amazon. here's the link: WELWIK 20PCS 8.5mm Floor Bottle Jack Plugs, Flat-Head Horizontal Jack Plugs, Bottle Jack Floor Jack Oil Reservoir Rubber Filler Plug Bung Jack Hydraulic Top Pressure Rod for Oil Reservoir Filler Hole
I use it every time. Occasionally, the ram gets stuck if it gets extended too far, in which case I open the knob/valve and whack the ram with a big log until it retracts.
@@FixEverythingYourself Thanks, I know this was over a year ago but I just had the same thing happen (ram not retracting) and thanks to you responding to comments I was able to fix my log splitter!
Harbor Freight? Not a chance. Not much of a flag waver but if I can get the same thing at a local hardware store while looking for where its made I'm buying local.
I totally agree that the instructions that are in the manual are confusing and even wrong. I followed them precisely and ended up sprayed with hydraulic oil. This video clarified the process entirely. Thank you!
You're welcome!
Thank you for taking the time to record and post this video. This is excellent. I completed these instructions just minutes ago. Without these video instructions, I would never have been able to accomplish the initial addition of hydraulic oil and bleeding the attached ten-ton jack. I would like to add just a few minor things I discovered while following these instructions as well as I was able:
1 I worked a long time twisting the plug out of the oil fill hole. I found that steadily pulling while twisting finally worked.
2. Use a funnel whose neck is at least one inch long and whose diameter is clearly smaller than the diameter of the oil fill hole. The cylinder will fill completely without the formation of an air/oil bubble at the fill hole.
3. The contents of a 12-ounce bottle of hydraulic oil is just slightly more than required to fill the cylinder completely.
4. As described in the video, the plug is nearly impossible to re-insert after filling the cylinder with hydraulic fluid. I found that closing the Handle Wheel and pumping several strokes on the handles allowed a small air bubble to flow to the oil fill hole that also created just enough room for the plug to be fully inserted again.
5. After bleeding according to instructions on the video, opened the Handle Wheel to contract the cylinder ram. Then I closed the Handle Wheel and pumped several stroked on both handles. When I pushed the small screwdriver against the filler plug shaft, a rather large air bubble escaped.
Thanks for the feedback.
I TOTALLY AGREE WITH PEOPLE WHO ARE SAYING THANK YOU. I've been trying to get my neighbors working for her and turns out I've probably been making it worse rather than fixed. Thanks for your time and help.
@aaronwelin387 Thank you!
This is one of those super niche videos that is worth its weight in gold if you ever need it. Thank you!
Great comment. Thanks!
Good point. I’m watching it before I go buy a splitter so I can just get home and get to work.
I lost the rubber plug and I filled with oil and put a piece of ductape on it. It is working fine but when I go to store it not sure what to do to keep the oil in. Any ideas?
I bought my HF splitter 2 years ago. I was barely getting about an eighth of an inch of push from the large piston. After watching your video, I felt confident to adjust my splitter. Works great now. As soon as I start to pump the handle, I can feel that it is pushing the log. Thank you.
Awesome! Thanks for the comment!
Great tutorial video, buddy. I completed the job in 10 minutes following your instructions step by step. Now, on the hunt for spare plugs and anything else that can give up. ALWAYS have spare parts!
Thanks again!
Thanks! Appreciate the kind words!
Thanx for the demonstration. I got a Sun Joe from Facebook Marketplace. I contacted Sun Joe support...no response. Glad I knew it needed lubrication but didn't know where to put the fluid and what type. I'm back in stride again thanks to you. Great job.
Awesome. Hope you get a lot of years of use out of it!
Second time watching to bone up before my second time adding fluid and bleeding. I like this splitter a lot better than an electric with half the tonnage but use both handles together to advance and let the "soft" handle go once I get pressure. Once I pop thru and have less resistance I pick back up the faster handle and continue with both. Probably the most detailed video on this subject, thank you for posting.
Thank you. I use mine exactly as you describe.
This put me back on track. Thank you. Edit: 5 months later, where can you get another plug and I bent the pin on the end of the main plunger.
🙂👍
well done; the best explanation I've found.
Sadly, mine was empty because the main seal has failed, and I'll have to find a video showing how to disassemble and replace that seal.
Thanks for the feedback, Doug. Too bad about the seal. That's a hassle.
I also had the main seal fail and faulty poles. The poles went straight through the holder and hit the springs. I think my Harbor freight had a few duds or something....
I've been having air issues, in the larger hydraulic cinder of my harbor freight log splitter, i tried bleeding it with no success :(
But after watching your video, I used a small screw driver to push in on the rubber plug and immediately air came out and just like that...it started working perfectly. Thank you for taking the time to post this video..
Great to hear you got it working. Thanks for the feedback!
Have you ever had it where you pushed it out too far and then it wont retract? I extended it just to the log supports. Then, like i said, it wouldn't retract on its own. I can pound it back. It was my first log so im about to just take it back, but wondered if you or anyone had experienced this.
@@stuttgurth Possibly you have too much oil in the cylinder. I've had this problem before. I didn't try to bleed out the extra oil (if that was the cause). If I recall correctly, when this happened about 2 years ago, I think it worked itself out after splitting wood for a while, possibly because over time, oil gradually leaked out. See my reply further up this queue..
The instructions in the manual were useless, thank you for this video.
Thanks!
This vid is great and gives me hope that I can revive my old splitter almost identical to yours. Though i just ordered a new one, I'm going to spend some time trying to revive to keep a back up splitter or for the missus ... yes I'm terribly romantic. Thanks for posting this.
Thanks. I like your idea of keeping a backup splitter handy.
Just watched this video and followed your instructions. Everything works great. Thank you.
Awesome!
I had that problem with the air remaining, after topping-off with oil, and the ram not moving forward with pumping. Now I know how to fix it, thanks!!
Great!
Thank you for the instructions. The problem I have is I have air coming out of the release screw is this normal?
Air is coming out of the screw that releases the piston and allows it to retract? If so, just need to turn that clockwise. If some other screw, no, air shouldn't be coming out.
Someone give this man a #1 DAD hat and some white Nikes! Thank you 🙏
😁
I've been having a heck of a time getting mine to bleed. I topped up the oil while it was laying on a flat surface, pumped the rams a bit till air/slop is noticed then let a little out, and continued that till it the ram was fully extended. But when I turn the relief valve to let the ram retract it'll get about half way or so then the smaller pump cylinder will fully extend as if all the air went straight to it.
Once the main ram fully retracts far it'll go (all but a few inches like yours did) I let some air out till the smaller cylinder was able to be pushed back without it wanting to extend back out by itself. But then soon as I try to use it to make sure all the air it out it'll start acting up again.
Thank you, you saved me a lot of time bleeding like that.
Glad to hear it.
Thanks a lot, I made my Sun joe splitter work again after saw you video. Very very useful.
That's great! Thanks for the feedback!
Great video. Instead of splitting like a cross country ski I used to move them both forward at the same time hoping that I would get the 3/8 movement instead of the 1/4 off the one side and 1/8 off the other, but alas it will only move 1/4 inch max.
I know what you're talking about with trying to get the benefit of moving both arms at the same time. I haven't measured to see if there's any difference when I do both versus just the one. Will try that this afternoon as I have a lot of wood left to split still...
Thanks for taking the time to teach!
You're welcome! 🙂
Nice video. I would suggest keeping your fingers away from the “split” when removing the log. If there is still tension causing log to want to return to un-split position your fingers might be in for a surprise. 😢
You're right about that 👍
Thanks for the nice comment.
Cheers and thanks, mate! You made it simple, and it was so easy. Well done! Thanks from Australia. 🐨🦘👍
Thank you! Glad it helped down under!
@@FixEverythingYourself Certainly did - our logsplitter does OT since we have a local tree lopper/feller and his crew who drops off free loads for us. All we've got to do is split it and stack it for a year. So, this being the first time it had failed...your vid was just the thing. We'll have to look at some of your other vids. Keep that good advice coming.
😄😄
THX SOOOOOOOOO MUCH for screw driver idea--it really worked!!!!!!!!!
Great!
TY for this video, I was wondering how to put the plug back in.
YW
There are 3 or 4 one way ball valves in these machines and a couple are at the bottom of the main jack cylinder. I think one of those is jammed open on mine. The left hand lever advances the ram but retracts the same amount when I let go of the lever. The right hand lever still works OK but it makes the operation very slow if I can only use that.
Mine does the same, did you find a fix for it??
@@markwhite9545 No, I just use the slow lever but can do one stroke of the fast one when the log is about to split. I don't have the right tools to unscrew the cylinder from the jack casting.
I watched a hilarious video about how not to do this, and then I watched this one. 2nd one (this one) worked great. Thanks.
😁👍. Thanks!
YOU REALLY HELPED PPL WITH THIS VIDEO< THANK YOU!!
Glad to hear it! Thanks!
What would be happening if only one side (the larger/harder side) works but the small adjustment/easier side has no pressure?
Sorry, not sure what that might be. Maybe a leaky seal? It's not something I've encountered.
Thanks for doing the video. Most helpful. My 10 ton log splitter made by Central Machine is leaking. Just wanted to know if you new where to find replacement o-rings. Tried harbor freight and the local hardware stores. Checked the harbor freight catalog could only find 5 ton replacement parts.
Sorry, I haven't replaced any of those parts and don't know where to get them if Harbor Freight doesn't have them. I do know that Lowes or HD or another store sells this same splitter but under a different brand name ("Sun Joe"?). So perhaps you could check there.
How do you fix this problem where you have a leak at the bottom of the grey metal that goes in and out where you use those two metal handles to push and pull back??? I don’t know if i made myself clear. Asking cause I borrowed it and I don’t wanna bring it back to my friend with that leak going on
I think you're referring to the smooth metal cylinders (pistons) that the long arms push in and out. Those are what create the hydraulic pressure to extend the ram and split the wood.
There's nothing you can do to fix a leak there other than take it apart, get a new seal, etc. There's nothing you did to create the leak, I'm sure, it's just a location where leaks happen.
Thank you!
I could have chopped a hundred of logs that diameter by hand in the amount of time it took to watch this video not to sound like a hero but I understand how some may find it useful to have a machine.i guess not everyone is able to swing a hatchet eiether.great presentation though.thanks
Thanks 👍
Got anything to help with seal replacement? The piston bit under where the arms go in is leaking oil.
No, sorry. Haven't had to do that yet.
Mine is stuck in the extended position. It won’t retract when I open the valve. It also won’t pump up anymore. The levers are hard to move and hear what sounds like a pressurized hiss coming from inside the jack when I pump the levers. The oil level is a little low, but not enough to prevent the unit from working prior to it getting stuck. Do you have any suggestions?
Occasionally, mine will get stuck in the extended position if I extend it to the max length (to the metal stops). When that happens, I take a big piece of firewood and whack the end of the ram until it retracts. I've never had a problem beyond that. I'm not sure what's causing the hissing sound. Maybe it will go away if you can get the ram to retract?
@@FixEverythingYourself Thank you for the suggestion and the quick reply! I got this unit used and I don’t know what kind of oil is in it. Should I drain out the oil that is in there or is it ok to just top it off with hydraulic oil?
I would just top it off. Pretty much any oil should be fine.
@@FixEverythingYourself How far until it started to retract on its own. I instinctively did this, got it about halfway back and it still wont retract the rest. Because it was the first log i split, I was figuring just take it back and not mess. Maybe i'll wack it a bit mroe.
Hmm, I only had to whack it until it moved a half inch to an inch, then it retracted the rest of the way on its own.
Thank you! Never even knew about the oil😂
👍🙂
This was very helpful... Ive been trying to see if there is any differences between this and name brand.. Not I need to see if the refill plug is a screw in metal plug as it should be or if its this crappy rubber thing.. Reason being,, that rubber plug will prevent you from doing much larger logs. Too pressure and the plug will pop.. that probably why you are constantly having to add oil
Yeah, I don't know why they use this rubber plug. A screw would've been so much easier. Interestingly, the splitter works with or without the plug installed.
@@FixEverythingYourself I am working on one of these for a friend. I am going to try the whole full and bleed process with the rubber plug out. I love that you suggest keeping the fill hole as high as possible. Great suggestion, but I don’t think you need to put the rubber plug in until after the air is cleared of the piston. I mean. There’s gonna be some air in the system, but it should stay near the top of the system (just under the plug). It’s when the air gets trapped below that that this seems to be a problems. I would suggest to people to keep the unit laying flat and never tip it up on end. Another video suggests pumping the handles while the release valve is open. He says the air can then flow past the release valve. Your video is great, but possibly a second one with info on how NOT to let the air get down lower into the cylinder would be great. Thank you. I have to go to my friends house before I can report back to you. Thanks!
Thanks, Casey. Yes, the operation can be done without the plug as you note.
Great video. My plug split and doesn’t work anymore. I contacted the distributor but no help there. I’ve tried a 1/4 and a 3/8 expansion plug. Too small and too large. Looks to be metric. I ordered a few tapered rubber stoppers. If that doesn’t work, I’m out of ideas. Anybody have any more ideas? Wherever you see “I” in this post it should say “my wife” (but I really did type this post.) However, she made me do it.
Good question. I haven't found a good substitute for the crappy rubber plug.
Is there no way to not use a rubber washer that will just eventually break down and or need to be replaced? Any way to put in a metal plug or screw into that?
Well, mine has a jagged hole so I'd need to drill it clean and round, then tap threads in. That would produce a bunch of metal shavings that I'd need to keep out of the cylinder. Possible, but a pain. But would be much better than the rubber plug that came with it.
@@FixEverythingYourself Understood. Thank you!
In order to pull the plug out, if unable to pull it out by hand, I hook the claw of a hammer onto the plug, then place my finger on the top of the plug to keep firmly pressed to the inside of the claw. Pressing on the top of the plug against the inside of the hammer claw, keeps the plug from slipping through the claw. I then gently pull the plug out with some twisting motion.
I tried placing the plug in the freezer for at least 10 minutes, to help with inserting the plug, but the plug warms up too fast. I was able to get the plug in by pressing on the top of the plug with a hammer as shown, but did not use a screw driver to push the bottom of the plug in. Instead I used a 1/8" diameter metal rod to push in the plug along the side of the plug. I had tried using the head of a nail held in a vice-grip to push in the plug, but the nail kept twisting to the side. Perhaps it wouldn't twist if I kept the vice grip tighter on the nail, but I didn't want to risk puncturing the plug with a screw driver.
I do agree that contrary to what the manual states, it is better to start with the piston fully retracted. When adding oil, the piston was fully retracted. Then I used either lever handle to push the piston forward a couple inches. This allowed me add a bit more oil, and then when I released the piston, and a bit of oil spilled out through the hole, and got rid of some air that way. A couple times, I got so too much oil in in the cylinder so that the I could advance the piston all the way, but it would not retract the last 3 or so inches. As I recall, the last time I added oil, after splitting wood for a while, some leakage of the oil finally allowed the piston to retract all the way.
👍
Do you think you could end up put to g a bleeder screw in there? Its probably not threaded though....
You're right, it's not threaded. I'd like to do that but seems like a hassle, and I'd need to keep metal chips out of the cylinder while tapping the hole. Poor design, in my opinion.
@@FixEverythingYourself After I commented, I thought of shavings falling in..
Yep. I wish there was an easy solution. The hole is jagged, too, not clean and round.
Watched a "How NOT to fill your HF 10 Ton log splitter" video last year.
They extended out the ram, then filled the bottle. :)
Needless to say, when it retracted... oil everywhere...
Yep!
Other than candle wax on the wedge blade do you do anything besides keep the glide base clean and dry?
No, I don't do anything else. I think some other viewers made comments on what they do but I haven't had any need to do anything else. And even the wax doesn't do a lot
My HF splitter worked great initially but now seems to be leaking pressure when it encounters a tough log. The piston moves forward as you pump, but when you stop it slacks back to where it started from. It seems to be leaking psu back through the shut off valve. Any fix for that? If I split an easier straight grained log there's no problem, but I had a nasty oak log with a limb joint in it that we had to use multiple wedges on to get it to split. And can oil be added through the shut off valve easier? I unscrewed mine and though the piston was almost all the way back when I removed the valve stem from the opening there was a slight puff of pressure and the piston moved all the way back a fraction of an inch. I thought since the valve stem opening is higher than the rubber plug it may be a better place to add oil and bleed air. Or not?
The piston seals are bad about rupturing on these. After replacing the main seal three times I cut and made a seal out of a automotive radiator hose and no more problems.
Does it matter the brand hydraulic fluid? My neighbor up the street just threw hers out. I asked if I could have it and she said yes. I just brought it home about five minutes ago. Just re-watched your video on how to get it running again. It has absolutely no movement of the cylinder. I'm going to get some hydraulic fluid and tinker with it. The worse thing if I can't get it to work is to put it on craigslist for a pick up curbside.
But, it's practically new and it was garage kept. I'm figuring she had the same issue with not enough fluid and never bled it.
Pretty much any kind of oil will work. There's "hydraulic oil" but plain old motor oil will work if that's what you have on hand.
@@FixEverythingYourself Thanks. I'm just hoping it's not a seal. The thing looks like it came out of the box.
I watched your other video on how to use this splitter. People commenting said that many of theirs didn't come with hydraulic oil in it. I'm assuming this may be the same issue.
If I get it working I just might give it back to her. She fosters kids and they're great kids in the neighborhood. Does a great job with them. So, just something nice to do for her.
Wish me luck getting it working.
Great. Would be nice if it just needed oil. And yeah, would be good to just give it back considering how simple the problem might be. Let me know how it turns out!
The splitter I picked up from my neighbor didn’t have any oil in it. I added oil and it started working. I had to bleed it a couple times like you suggest. I asked them if they wanted it back. They said no. So I added oil and started splitting right away.
All I paid for was the oil. When I say empty, it was dry inside.
Wow. Great deal for you! Thanks for the update :)
Great video on how to bleed this splitter. I have a question, though. Mine will not retract at all. You would think with those springs pulling, it would come back, but it won't. Any idea what the problem is? Thank You!!
This may be obvious but are you turning the knob when you want to retract the ram? That's what allows the ram to retract.
@@FixEverythingYourself Yes. I've had this splitter for about 8 years. It just started doing this. It does it when I fully extend it. Some times it will retract, other times it won't. I had to turn it verticle and use a small bottle jack to push it back. Once I start applying some pressure on bottle jack, it will then retract. As long as I don't fully extend it, no problem with it retracting back.
I've had that happen when I extend it ALL the way. If I leave it just a fraction of an inch short of fully extended, I don't have that problem.
You sir save my day great video very detailed
I'm glad this was helpful!
HF 10 ton manual splitter - the piston is fully extended & will not retract. Any thoughts? Thanks…
Mine will occasionally get stuck if I let it go ALL the way to the end. It always retracts after opening the valve and banging on it with a heavy piece of wood. I don't have that problem if I keep it a fraction of an inch short of full extension.
@@FixEverythingYourself “opening the valve and banging on it” - not certain what valve?
I'm referring to the round knob on the top at the back end of the splitter. Turn that counterclockwise to release the piston, the twist it clockwise to close.
Thank you so much! Works perfectly now…
Great!
The piston only extends a few inches after it had been working fine. I'm hoping for suggestions as to cause and if there are any good instructions for rebuilding if necessary. TIA
Mine has done this when it's low on oil. Maybe an obvious suggestion but what I've experienced.
@@FixEverythingYourself Thank you. I'm hoping that all but I've seen no evidence of leakage. I guess i will investigate
Did you add oil before the first time using it?
I think so, yes, but don't remember if it was a lot or a little.
Do you think it would be possible to thread where the little plug goes and use a bolt instead?
I think it's possible but difficult. My plug hole is completely jagged, so I'd have to clean up the hole first, then tap it. To prevent metal shavings getting in the hole, you'd have to shove a rag in there prior to doing any of that, and that would be challenging to get it out without leaving shavings. Or do the work with the splitter upside-down?
I'm not sure it's worth the effort. Just my opinion.
Great video! Where can I get a replacement plug?
Good question. I've never looked for one so not sure. Sorry.
Hi! I watched your other video reviewing this log splitter, I ended up getting one yesterday. How often do you change/fill up hydrolic oil on yours? And how do you tell when it's time to add oil? Thank you!
I never change the oil. I only add oil if I've noticed a large amount leak out (unusual) or the splitter isn't operating correctly and I check the level. If the ram isn't extending normally or the arms don't seem to produce the same ram action as usual, I may check the oil. But typically, oil level will stay good for a while if there are no leaks.
@@FixEverythingYourself followed everything as you stated in this video, everything went smooth for me with my new log splitter. I appreciate you taking the time for making these videos, also answering my questions! Thank you!
Great!
I have the same spliter, why would mine be leaking oil from the small side cylinder?
Hmmm, it shouldn't be leaking if it's new. Even then, it should go a while before the seals begin to leak. If it's an old splitter and only leaking a small amount, it's probably not a concern. If it's leaking a lot and/or the splitter isn't operating, that's a problem.
There are O rings in those pumps and they do wear out. Mine also leaks but I've not been able to get the correct thickness of O ring. I have a box of assorted O rings but the ones of the correct diameter are too thin.
Thanks - very helpful and informative.
Thanks, William. I had problems with mine at first and figured I wasn't the only one!
Say you have it where the splitter splits fine but doesn’t retract? Something wrong with the piston or something not letting it come back. I have to hit the end to get it to retractu
That only happens to me when I overextend the ram. Does yours do it every time?
@@FixEverythingYourself I think I over extended. It was the first run. What would be the fix?
I just grabbed another log and whacked the end of the ram and it retracted. Happens occasionally if I extend it too far. Also happens if there's no resistance from the log that remains in the splitter. Usually, the log itself pushes back against the ram and allows it to retract.
Thanks for the great video. I strangely love this stupid tool. It actually provides a good upper body workout...with the satisfaction of splitting and popping wood! The manual is worthless to describe adding fluid and bleeding..
Yeah, it's pretty fun to use. Thanks for the feedback!
Hey what about draining the old fluid
Shouldn't need to do that but if I did, I'd probably just to it over and let it drain out.
Mine worked right out of the box.
👍👍
Hi sir I did the same step too many times and is still doing the same!
how can l get a good pressure on it.??
A few questions... did you add oil? Did you elevate the back edge of it a couple of inches before adding oil? Was the ram retracted before adding oil? Unless there's a leak in a seal or some other malfunction, these steps plus the bleeding procedure should work. You can also try leaving the plug out temporarily and see if that works when operating the splitter. Just make sure to retract it very slowly or oil will get everywhere. If it works with the plug out, you must not be quite doing something right during the bleeding process.
I just replace one seal today the small one but tomorrow I will check the oil level This is my 3rd year with it I used good for the past 2 years
Thank you so much I try out tomorrow again good night 😴
Good luck! Have a great night!
Did you say it came without any oil in it? I just picked one up today and after splitting the first log, it’s now stuck in the extended position. The HF cust service guy told be to just exchange it. But I hope they don’t ship these dry. The instructions didn’t say anything about adding oil before using it.
Mine came completely empty. How far is yours extended? Is it all the way to those tabs that are welded on the side about 12 inches out? Mine sometimes gets stuck if I accidentally extend it to that point and I have to whack it hard a few times with a big piece of wood to get it to retract. But it always retracts, so give that a try if you haven't already.
@@FixEverythingYourself thanks - it’s not all the way extended and still stuck. Also tried to hit it to move it back but no luck. How did you know it had no oil? Did you pull the rubber plug to look before using it? I don’t believe they are supposed to ship these empty.
I tried using it right out of the box before checking the oil. The ram wouldn't extend at all. Thats when I pulled the rubber plug and saw it was empty.
@@FixEverythingYourself ah, okay - do you recall how much oil it took? The HF tech said he thought it was 32 ozs but that seems like a lot for that size pump jack.
Hmmm. I really don't recall how much it took but it does feel like it was probably less than 32 oz. Just guessing from memory - it was probably between 16 and 32 oz.
Have you added any oil? I wonder if adding oil and operating it some might help break it loose? And yes, the instructions were terrible, which is what prompted me to do a video.
Excellent. Just perfect
🙂👍
Thanks it really helped me
Great
Anyone know where I can buy replacement rubber plugs?
I've not seen them at Harbor Freight.
We ordered these replacement plugs, and they seem to be working so far, after a 2 hour log splitting session. They fit very well, but time will tell. You get 20 plugs for $10 on Amazon. here's the link:
WELWIK 20PCS 8.5mm Floor Bottle Jack Plugs, Flat-Head Horizontal Jack Plugs, Bottle Jack Floor Jack Oil Reservoir Rubber Filler Plug Bung Jack Hydraulic Top Pressure Rod for Oil Reservoir Filler Hole
Thanks for the tip! Here's a link to those plugs.
amzn.to/3KhlfuX (#ad)
Great! Thanks!!!
🙂 Thanks!
Has to be hydraulic oil?
No. I've used regular motor oil before and had no problems.
Yes. I was just confused, because mine will not retract at all.
I use it every time. Occasionally, the ram gets stuck if it gets extended too far, in which case I open the knob/valve and whack the ram with a big log until it retracts.
@@FixEverythingYourself That was my exact question. I definitely extended too far. Ok so open the knob a bit and then whack.
@@FixEverythingYourself Ok That worked. I was just hesitant, because I hadn't even used the things yet and now I'm whacking it with a rubber mallet.
Thank you for your time. These videos are life savers for the "non-handy"!
@@FixEverythingYourself Thanks, I know this was over a year ago but I just had the same thing happen (ram not retracting) and thanks to you responding to comments I was able to fix my log splitter!
What oil do you use in yours?
I've been using SAE 30 oil, although pretty much any kind of oil should do just fine.
I thought you could tap that hole and put a bolt and washer in it, but the shavings would end up in the hydraulic pump, so maybe not.
Yep, I thought the same thing.
Gracias Gracias 🙏
Thank you 👍
You're welcome!
Muy bueno como sangrar el cilindro estuvo muy bien Se lo agradezco
De nada!
Mine is leaking out of the cylinder anyone know the fix?
Go Flyers!
Oh yeah!
Nice hat. But you're gonna get hydraulic oil on those pants....
Why not tap the hole and screw a plug into it
I've considered that but haven't messed with it yet. One concern is making sure not to get shavings in the hole and damaging the seals
A rubber plug and not a threaded plug? Hmmm.
Came with a rubber plug in a very jagged hole, not threaded. Not sure why they chose to do it that way.
@@FixEverythingYourself Amazes me they didn't leave some kind of a bleeder valve to make it easy. but then it is Harbor Freight. Keep it cheap.
And theres your dinner
Good job going for zero injuries by wearing eye protection!
You noticed! Yes, ears and eyes need to be protected. Always have goggles and ear plugs nearby!
Lot quicker using an axe man up guys swing the axe
Harbor Freight? Not a chance. Not much of a flag waver but if I can get the same thing at a local hardware store while looking for where its made I'm buying local.
Great tutorial!
Thanks!
Gracias Gracias 🙏