How I Copy Parts in the Garage on a CNC Mill
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- Опубликовано: 5 дек 2021
- This video is about the work flow I use when replicating parts from start to finish - my measuring, probing, modelling, CAM, and machining work flow.
Machine: Precision Matthews PM30-MV
Control: Centroid Acorn
CAD: Solidworks
CAM: Audodesk HSM
Note: I'm not a machinist - just a guy with a hobby here to share and learn. 
Наука
My father was a Master Machinist back in the 50s. I was amazed what he could do with a piece of metal. All work was dialed in and machined to perfect dimensions. I would love for him to see these new advancements in his field.
I love the world of cnc - because it can turn laymen like me into somebody who can produce/make something. Machinists like your father had to be very skilled to make what they did with the equipment they had - and they truly made amazing things. CNC (which does come with its own set of challenges) for better or for worse, is killing that art. I work in manufacturing and it’s very difficult to find skilled machinists! All that said - it is amazing to watch and I bet your father would be blown away :)
And your father didn’t need to copy peoples proprietary property.
@@adamdebowski2037 reason its so difficult to find machinist is because they aren't treated very well. And there is minimal chance of promotion out of the field
@@duediligence791wtf lol. What a weird take
@@adamdebowski2037 Cnc isnt killing the art, its separating the people who want to push buttons to those who want to make parts even better. You sir are the latter. Good work :)
As someone from a visual design background who is trying to teach themselves CAD and get into the machining industry, this video is excellent. Have subbed and I'm looking forward to seeing more of your videos. Thanks dude.
I am not even attempting this type of work but I enjoy the knowledge and found your video while just learning something new. Great job.
That's been my NUMBER ONE QUESTION ...
How do you copy parts ... And then this video pops up in my recommended videos ..
I need to know how to make certain gun parts that are not sold anymore due to the guns been very old ..
You're a blessing Adam .. Thanks for the video ..
Very glad the video found you. That sounds like fun. We don't get to play with those kinds of toys up here in Canada. Good luck and let me know how it goes! Cheers
Phenomenal walkthrough and explanation of each step. I feel like just seeing your process answered some questions that I didn't even know I had. Keep up the great work!
Thanks! Glad you found the video helpful :)
You do awesome work and are very talented. I have been involved with cnc machining 30+ years but with cad/cam you take it to the highest level in your home garage. Good job.
Those are some very kind words. Thank you for the comment and for watching. I appreciate it 👍👍
it's nice to see such a small machine can get the job done very well, pretty impressive.😃
This was a pleasure to watch, thank you for sharing
Great video! Super interesting ideas to fix the parts for milling from both sides.
Super well explained. I really like your fixture plate concept and your conveying the concepts behind the operations. Part came out beautiful. Thank you.
Nearly as elusive as TOT...HA HA: 4:53
This was very helpful for understanding order of operations and fixturing ideas. Thanks for sharing your process!
Hi Brandon - I'm glad you found it helpful - Cheers!
That was an amazing video! You should make more content like this
Outstanding summary of a tremendous amount of work. I saw in a separate comment you provided an idea of the real-time hours involved. Definitely not trivial, but your attention to detail in building the part and developing the cam yielded what appears to be perfect parts without having to make practice chips/parts 😉. Especially helpful that you detail what tools you’re using along with feeds and speeds. This is truly the secret sauce in machining. I’ve just found your channel and immediately subscribed. I’m looking forward to checking out previous and future content. Thanks for sharing. 👍👍😎👍👍
Thanks for the comments, Joel! I’m glad the monotone feeds/speeds commentary didn’t put every viewer to sleep 😂
@@adamdebowski2037 These comments were highly apprecciated Adam - thank you for such a nice video and I just subscribed for your future content🙂
@@adamdebowski2037 I prefer the straightforward "monotone feeds" myself. Nice video
@@MJ-iy4fb Haha thanks, MJ - noted. Seems these details are appreciated. Will make a point to include them in future content. Cheers. Adam
@@adamdebowski2037 Gives it kind of a "How it's Made" sound. It's actually very easy listening and a good pace.
Awesome video! For the better finish on the 16mm have a look at your run out and make sure it's not a low tip scoring up floor !
That is incredible Adam, I am an old school Fitter Machinist. CNC is 'new' to me. Thinking about purchasing a mill similar to yours for my home workshop, hoping to make some motorcycle parts in nearing retirement. Thanks for sharing your expertise and inspiring me to have a go. Cheers.
Hi Andrew - I’m glad you enjoyed it! Even after having the mill for a few years, I’m still amazed at what cheap CNC equipment is able to do these days. I think you’ll agree - good luck and enjoy the journey! - Adam
I saw a guy in Cuba doing that by hand on a freaking homemade lathe to fix his old Chevy 1956. Tecnology is a bless.
Oooh I like nicely made fixtures. Especially when they have notes engraved on them 🤤
Good instructions. Enjoyed watching this video a lot.
Glad to hear it!
Amazing video! This is fantastic content!
Hi Adam. I learnt a lot watching this. I have an old Syil X4 with Mach3 and F360. Although your setup is different the way you apply the principles is excellent. Your video quality is very good and your presentation with all the feeds, speeds etc is great. Very few people mention how useful photographs can be - something I discovered myself. The way you position the features first before overlaying the image has really got me thinking.
Hi Peter - thanks for the feedback. I’m glad you enjoyed it. I agree that photos are immensely useful for this kind of thing. I’ve also learned that the further back the camera is from the part, the more accurate the results - I think it reduces the “perspective skew.” How much? I’m not sure… cheers! 🍻
@@adamdebowski2037 We have traveled the same road here. I use a 35mm camera and a wide angle lens close up is not ideal. A longer focus lens (105mm) from further away gives better results.
My workflow for this is to use a c-stand and an 85mm lens where possible and correct the inherent distortion in Lightroom before using the photo. Lightroom can use the metadata from something as simple as a phone to minimise the distortion. I’ve found three measurements to be far more accurate with this method, even going closer to the edge of the photo.
I just bought a used Syil X3 with Mach 3 and can't get the computer to grab the mill. I am awaiting a new DB25 cable, will have it in a couple days. Know any good sites for my machine?
Outstanding video. Thanks!
Pretty cool. I’ve always been curious how those small mills are. Great job.
Fantastic! Please keep posting great videos like this.
Thank you! Will do!
This is sick tutorial.Thank you master 😃😃
Amazing job!
Cheers 🍻🍻
lovely, nice job mate
Thanks a lot for sharing and explaining!
nice work, you make it look so easy!
Cheers! I like to think of it as a lot of work, but not hard. CNC machining is borderline magic! 🍻🍻
You earned my subscription!
Great video👍🏼 thanks for sharing
Wow man. You are my role model. Subbed.
Great work. I am subbed. I work with the Centroid system at work.
Thanks! What kind of machine are you running it on? How do you like it?
That's really impressive
I was shopping for a touch probe when I saw this. Looking at similar application on a larger machine.
I bought a centroid controler for a small cnc I have been building so this was good to see..
really enjyed watching this and only just starting out in cnc myself
Awesome! Glad to hear it. I’m pretty new to CNC, myself. I’ve only been at it a couple years. I started this build almost exactly 2 years ago when covid hit hard.
@@adamdebowski2037 same amount of time as me then but you are a lot further than me :) I have moved twice in the last two years so am stil trying to get going
Very impressive
this is awesome. thank you. i'm currently converting a pm-30 to cnc, with centroid control as well.
Nice! I've seen your stuff on instagram. Very cool. Centroid is great - I'm sure you're going to love it. Are you going with ball screws?
If you don't like the finish of your endmill then try experimenting with different feeds and speeds. Usually, harder material need faster speeds and taking a finishing pass or two of 0.010 to 0.005 will clean up the face nicely. To be fair, I only work with a manual lathe and mill due to the fact I don't have access to a cnc yet.
Great video, I can't wait to see more.
Thanks, Steve! I'm pressure sure the issue here is that the inserts I have are either 0 radius or 0.010" radius. Something like 0.030" or more should be better.... I think.... Cheers - Adam
Tremendous work 👌
Thanks a lot 😊
Earned my follow, great work
Thank you - glad you enjoyed it!
Very nice!
Great video.
Thanks for your sharing 🙏🏻
Great I have a similar machine will try to do something like it.
Siema Adam! Super video i super jakosc czesci ktore wytwarzasz. Jesli moge cos zasugerowac to na samym koncu zawsze wycinaj fazki gdy wszystkie profile czesci masz wyciete. W ten sposob nie bedziesz musial uzywac tego samego narzedzia kilka razy w trakcie jednej operacji. Nastepna rzecz to najpierw spot drill, potem drill, potem chamfer hole. Jesli najpierw wytniesz fazke a potem dopiero bedziesz wiercic otwor to roznica w kacie miedzy wiertlem a fazka moze spowodowac ze wiertlo nie bedzie wycinac prosto tylko zacznie “uciekac” na bok. Mam nadzieje ze napisalem zrozumiale i jeszcze raz pozdrawiam!! Leci subik!! 👍👍👍👍
Cześć Ddk90! Dziękuję za zwrotną informację. Masz rację - używam niewłaściwego narzędzia do nawiercania - powinienem użyć takiego z większym kątem niż wiertło, ale nie mam innego uchwytu. Bardzo dobrze wyjaśniłeś swoją wiadomość. Do napisania tego używam tłumacza - więc mam nadzieję, że ta odpowiedź ma sens. Dzięki za subskrypcję - cieszę się, że Polakom spodobała się zawartość.
Nice work!
Thank you! Cheers!
Great video! I'm subbing
Great video subbed!
Great vid and info! Thanks!! subbed. :)
Nice!
Strategically comprehensive setup. Very informative video. I like & Subscribe for everything you have to say, and show. Thumbs up all the way."
Hi Master-G. Thanks for the sub & for the kind words! I'm glad you're enjoying the content. Cheers! - Adam
Great work for a hobbyist, or a pro for that matter. Instant like and sub!
What’s it for? Looks to me like a suspension component of some sort….
nice job!
Thank you - glad you enjoyed the video!
Very good video and I too love using HSM in Solidworks. We have a Haas machine with Renishaw probe and have thought of using it to reverse engineer. What did you do to get the probed surface coordinates into Solidworks?
Hi Anthony. I use probing routines in the control and manually build the part in solidworks as I go, then overlay the photo and trace.
This was a great video, really enjoyed it! I’ve only used manual machining tools so far but now have access to a 4 axis CNC mill (SYIL X7) at my local maker space, so it’s cool to see what can be done with the right skills and setup. 👍
For a part like this, approximately how many hours did the probing and design take, and how much of actual machine running time? I'm going to pay by the minute so it would be great to get a rough idea what a part like this would cost me to make on the CNC.
Best regards from Austria!
Lukas
Glad you enjoyed it! To probe the critical surfaces took half an hour and modelling the rest took another 30-45 mins or so. I would budget an extra hour or two if it’s your first time maybe. The total cycle time for one of those parts is somewhere around 2.5-3 hrs on my small machine.
It’s very cool that you have access to a machine like that. What about tools/endmills? Do you buy your own? What about the time it takes to set the tools up in the machine? Do you pay for that, too?
Cheers from Canada!
Adam
@@adamdebowski2037 Thanks for the quick reply, good to know! Regarding the maker spacer, they let you use the machine, but you have to bring your own cutting tools. You pay by the minute (about 1 Euro per minute), but only for the time when the spindle actually turns, so setup time is free. They have a bunch of other machines including a 130x90cm metal laser with 1200W so it can do 12mm steel or 4mm aluminum, as well as bigger lasers for wood and other materials. So perfect to compliment my private workshop that doesn't have any €20k+ machines... 😎
awesome
Great video Adam, thank you a lot. Would you share a video from beginning like starting from drawing part, if it’s possible? I wonder how u copy as same as with the original dimensions
Hi Emre - I plan on doing some more detailed CAD and CAM videos in the future. Stay tuned!
what are you using for coolant?
How much was your setup for machine and all the bits and probe
Brilliant!
Cheers!
what kind of probe are you using? I just got a Langmuir System MR-1 and the probe that came with it is +- .008" I need something that is +- .001" I would love to have a probe so I don't have to edge find.
This is the S5000 probe from drewtronics. It is good to within around a thousandth. I love it!
Nice balance between pace and detail in this video. Thanks for sharing your workflow. How repeatable is the probe on X,Y ? I've just finished working in a macro that does multiple probe strikes and averages them to get a less than 1 step accuracy repeatedly.
Thanks! Repeatability is well inside a thousandth in x,y, and z. Accuracy is around a thousandth.
@@adamdebowski2037 ok thats pretty good. My machine has 0.0125mm steps or 1/2 thousandth and I'm getting less than half a step error in repeatability. I've been trying to line up a bore when flipping a part.
Hi, just came across this video, you are getting nice finish with the PM30, I'm running a PM25MV
Cheers - how are you finding your finishes? Our mills are almost identical - I would expect you’re getting something similar.
@@adamdebowski2037 i don't think it's as nice as your. I think if i was running coolant or something for lubricant i would be get great finish. I do like the mill for what it is. I'm not as talented as you are programming. I use Gibbs cam
@@makosharkcnc7730 Thanks for the kind words! I don't consider myself a talented programmer. I have been designing for many years, but I'm pretty new to CAM and machining in general. I do, however, have the benefit of having friends that are very good programmers, and I use them shamelessly! Some advice that you may already know, and might help with finishes: In general, I remove the maximum amount of material as fast as possible, but I leave a 0.010" "skin" all around the part that I later clean up with light finishing passes that produce great finishes. I find our mills really shake around when removing lots of material, but they're rigid enough to remove small amounts of material accurately when needed. Cheers! Adam.
Really good information. I’m a PE and run SW daily. When you talk about probing your part (~45 sec in) and getting into SW, are you doing this manually reading the mill’s DRO, or are you able to directly input your mesh into a sketch / SW directly? Aloha and thank you.
I’m doing it manually. You can scan the part in a grid pattern (with a resolution of your choosing) with the probe if you buy centroid’s digitizing package and it will generate cloud point data that you can import into SW and stitch into a mesh with the mesh wizard. It ends up looking like an STL file which isn’t suitable for cam/machining in most cases.
@@adamdebowski2037 right. I’ve tried some workflows from photogrammetry and pushing that into SW with limited success. So I’m still inputting dims with a set of Calipers or mic… 🤙🏼 thanks again! Keep up the great content.
Do You know how the formula of upgrading horsepower? Example of 2jz engine had 320hp but someone build 2jz with 3000hp. Is there any thicker wall of the engine besides of bigger compression and gas supply
Can you get that probe to take in dimensions as you did into solid works? Fascinating video! I've been itching to get setup going!
It doesn’t import dimensions into solidworks. I just spits out dimensions.
This was very informative. Do you have a list of the tooling you used here? I just bought a PM745VT with a Masso/Clearpaths. I'm watching some of your other videos now.
I use the Tormach TTS tool holding system & use bright/uncoated 2 flute (for 1/8” tools or smaller) endmills, and bright/uncoated 3 flute endmills (for 3/16” tools or bigger) in aluminum/brass/plastics. For steels I typically use coated 4 flute endmills. You might like this video where i quickly go over everything I use: Convert a Bench Mill to CNC - Everything You Need to Know
ruclips.net/video/bN_D3NWwdu4/видео.html
@@adamdebowski2037 Thanks, Ill watch that one and take notes.
Id be curious to hear a cost/time breakdown to final price for done part. To see where time is absorbed compared to operation earnings. I hope that made sense.
Hi customsolutionsinc - good question. Each piece of aluminum was around $50, and I did the work for $650 I think. A much lower price than a machine shop would charge. I do this stuff because I love it, and I try to at the very least pay for my hobby. If I was making many of these, it would be lot more lucrative, but I would not recommend a machine like this for serious production runs. It’s a fun hobby machine and a great learning tool. If you’re into making things for yourself, perfect option. I’d you’re looking to make money, I’d invest in a small VMC. Hope that helps! Cheers 🍻
Omg this is beautiful!💘 I need the inside of my air rifle bullpup stock copied so i can duplicate it with an aluminium stock👍👍👍
looks as so much work
Man you need to get a rotary encoder so you can rigid tap. Also glad to see other people using Centroid.
Would be so nice. I generally thread mill to get around this kind thing. An encoder would make tool and belt changes a little more difficult I think. What machine are you running centroid on?
@@adamdebowski2037 A power draw bar would make tool changes easier.. As for my machines, I have a AXYZ 4004 routerwith a ATC Spindle, I am also finishing up a Emco PC Turn 50 that is also Centroid. and funny enough I was starting a Sieg X2 mini mill build which also has an Acorn but I got the router and that took over.
@@mrp19285 nice! would love to see the ATC.
@@adamdebowski2037 Once you go ATC you never go back.
Cześć Adam, jakich narzędzi używałeś do planowania powierzchni i adaptive clearingu + wykończenia frezem walcowo-czołowym?
Cześć Marius - Do planowania użyłem "tormach superfly" (tormach.com/tts-superfly-cutter-kit-33031.html) i wszystkie frezy wykańczające to 3 frezy do aluminium. Używam tych, ale możesz użyć innych: deboertool.com/v/products/a-mill/a-mill-semi-finisher. Cieszę się, że w tej społeczności jest tak wielu Polaków. Jestem urodzonym w Kanadzie Polakiem i przepraszam za mój zły polski!
im guessing youre running servos or closed loop for the accuracy your getting from a mill conversion?( I have a good idea of the accuracy your getting based on the probling accuracy for the parts ) I think a common problem , atleast on my mill is the chinese ball screws i used , when tested under load after the fact they have about .003 alone , nevermind the losses in all the other parts.
Yessir - closed loop steppers. Have you shimmed your double ball nuts? Played with the backlash comp in your control? If you’ve over tightened the gibs that’s another way to introduce backlash. Cheers 🍻 Adam
So, are you able to have an output from the probe to input the coordinates in the CAD software or are you stuck with manually adding them to the drawings? That would be neat if possible.
Definitely stuck with manually adding them - one by one - to the model and drawing. In theory, it should be possible to write a probing program to go to certain places, probe features, and save the data, but that kind of thing is way over my head. I haven't proven/tried it, but I'm very sure my post wouldn't support it either.
I have always wanted to be able to do this type of CNC type machining in my home shop but never had the nerve to pull the trigger on purchasing the system. Unsure how long it took you to get good at this? Did you have a machinist background? In any event, very impressed with your abilities and video. Thxs
Hi Ralph - thanks for the kind words! I have no previous experience as a machinist, and extensive experience with the Solidworks CAD software. Designing parts in 3D was no problem, but learning how to apply toolpaths to the parts was all new to me. I’d say it took me a couple months of using the machine a few times a week to get comfortable with it
Great videos Adam. Re your s5000LED probe. I don't see any wiring diagrams on the drewtronics site. I'm running an Acorn too and their KP3 is a 3 wire probe. Is the s5000LED a 2 or 3 wire?
NM, I saw your other vid re s5000LED. So no detect just signal and common. I try not to cheap out on tools, but the s5000LED is 1/3rd the price and you sound pretty pleased with it. I'm going to give it a shot. Thanks for the great videos :)
You got it. Ya, I love the thing and haven’t had any issues w it. Because there’s no detect, centroid prompts you to hit the probe with your finger to make sure it’s working. When you hit it, you see a probe tripped message in the dialogue box. You can choose to do that check or just press cycle start if you’re feeling lucky! Lol
I will say that a longer probe stick out would be nice. It only sticks out an inch so if you need to reach deep, you’ve gotta get creative
Reminded me cnc machine fabrication and copying car cams. Hi tech amazingly job killers
NCY CNC has a company called proven cut. Actual real world speeds and feeds with different types of machines, tools, and materials.
Hi Adan
Thank you for the video, i have a PM25 that i converted to CNC and i used Centroid Acorn, do you please tell me what type probe you use on your machine, 2 wire or the other one for Tormach?
Thank you
Wagner Damotta
Hi Wagner - it’s the Tormach probe (it has the 3/4” TTS tool holding shank and shoulder) , but a 2-wire version. You will have to send an email to drew when you order it and he will custom make it for you.
@@adamdebowski2037 Thank you Adan
I will get one, thank you again for the help
Did you need to select a different cable type on the Probe for the Acorn board?
Yes. I did not get the tormach connector. Just a two-lead wire. Would be better if you got a 3 lead wire to wire into the acorn so you can have both a probe trip circuit and a probe detect circuit.
OMG - Firetrucking awesome! I am an out of work machinist and disabled veteran. I would really like to know more about how you made your PM-30 work with CNC (I'm wondering if there is a ball screw kit for it). I already use Fusion 360 for my plasma cutter and I've done 3D in the past. My goal is to have a small fab shop at home so I can make a little income, anything would help. What you have there looks like it's in my reach and it would put me light years ahead if I could mostly replicate it here. That edge probe is the cats pajamas... The ones we had at my last job were so expensive that I rarely got to use one, good old dial indicator and the classic edge finders for most of us in that shop. You got my sub today. Thank you so much!
Hi PT Anderson! Respect for your service 🙌🙌 there is a ball screw kit for the PM30. There is one made by a company called “pro cut cnc” (I think), and one by a guy on RUclips (David Clements - RUclips username: Arizonavideo99). I have Dave’s kit and can confirm he does a great job getting out almost all the backlash. Yes - this probe is amazing. It’s good to about a thousandth which is plenty good for this mill. The “real” probes by Renishaw and much better, you pay for it, and would be overkill for a machine like this. The machine itself isn’t anywhere close to that accurate. I used an edge finder for almost two years before getting this probe. I would say a decent edge finder is about as accurate as this probe, and can do almost all the same things with more calculation on your part. The probe is mostly a luxury, and I love it! Cheers 🍻
@@adamdebowski2037 That edge probe seems to be worth it just in speed, repeatability and ease of use. I plan on getting one when I can. Thanks for the info! I would love to see a video tour of the upgrades to your PM-30 when you get a chance.
@@p.t.anderson1593 my thoughts exactly. At this price point, the extra luxury is not too hard to justify. Drew also makes a tool setter for closer to $500USD, which I do want but is a harder pill to swallow - especially when paying for customs and in Canadian pesos. I’ve been meaning to make a little PM30 upgrades video. Will try to get around to it soon!
This looks like a great machine, really nicely converted. What size steppers does it have? What is the spindle power? Currently looking into buying a CNC mill of some description.
Great vid, get'yer sub!
Hi Adam, I was looking how to duplicate a part and your video just shows up. Thanks. I am trying to find a place to duplicate a part for a very old washer machine, can you help with it? Thank you
Hi Rodrigo. Send some photos of the part to my email - adamd.cnc@gmail.com. Let’s have a look.
About to get a CNC so I can manufacture my own gun parts! ;)
Very cool! I’m in Canada, and we don’t get to have that kind of fun up here. Good luck on your build!
Cool.
Hi Adam, I'm a little late to the party here. I too have a PM30 running Acorn. I have the Centroid KP=3 probe. My question is how exactly you take your measurements from the Probe and accurately place them in you r Fusion model? Dimensions are simple to obtain. Relationships between them are often not. In the video you showed probing a bore, then in the next instant, there are four or five features shown in your cad model. Are you using a mapping routing to obtain this specific orientation data?
Hi Shawn - when probing a bore, centroid will spit out the bore sizes as well as position of the bore’s Center in terms of X & Y coordinates with respect to the work coordinate offset. So in a fusion sketch, I’d place the bores at the appropriate coordinates and at the right size, slowly building the part one feature at a time. Does that make sense?
Adam
Thank you. I never would have thought of using the machine coordinates to populate my fusion sketch dimensions. Thank you!!@@adamdebowski2037
@shawnhanifan2500 glad I could be of some help. Good luck and thanks for watching 👍👍
Hello friend, how are you? Is it possible to make a couple of engravings for a kyosho that I have? I have not been able to find the originals anywhere, so I would like to know if there is the possibility of "recreating" ones with a diameter of 2.5 cm and 15 teeth... regards, wonderful contribution
Hi Zorodor. Feel free to send me an email with some photos and more details. Anything is possible!
how do you translate the probe data into accurate position data in solidworks? great video
Hi John. After running a probing routine on the Acorn for, say, a bore, it will give you the size of the bore, and it's position with respect to the work coordinate offset. So lets say you set any bore to have its center axis a x=0 and y=0. Then when you measure another bore, it will give you it's size, and it's X & Y coordinates. So when you're modelling the part, you'll know where to draw that second bore with respect to the first. I pick one bore to be my x/y 0, and then measure all the other bores to get their size and positions, and I'll draw them all in solidworks, one at a time, as I'm measuring them on the machine. Does that make sense?
@@adamdebowski2037 awesome! thanks for explaining that Adam.
I know this video is from 2 years ago but I’m trying to understand cad more. I have seen people in solid edge make surfaces from sketches. My current learning that I’m trying to do is take a toolhead air duct and create the duct path line. I was trying to create a solid by using sweep but it just errors. Would it be better to create a surface? I am ignorant so keep this in mind, but would it be better to create a surface and then convert to a solid?
You can sweep a solid or surface, one isn’t easier than the other. You may be getting errors because you’re not using the “pierce” sketch relation. Also, if you’re just wanting to sweep a circle, you don’t even need to draw the circle. If you draw the duct path line, then go right into the sweet feature, solidworks will give you the option of sweeping a circle at tue size of your choosing… although keep in mind that feature came into existence around 2020 if I remember right. You can then use the shell feature to hollow out the solid so it’s like a tube. Fee free to email me at adamd.cnc@gmail.com if you have any more questions. Include some screen shots/details of what you’re trying to do and I’ll be happy to help.
@@adamdebowski2037 I created a circle on xy plane and changed the curve in 3D space. It will allow surface to create the duct on sweep but when in solid it says that all edges selected as path or cross section must be connected. They are connected and also the path and the circle overlap so they def touch. Sounds like something in solid edge.
is it possible to a copy a cylinder head port using larger centroid machine?
Absolutely. Centroid is just the controller - you can think of it as the computer/brain of the machine. The physical mill is what would have to be larger.
@@adamdebowski2037 can you teach me the process on how to a copy cylinder head port design and what machine to buy? im willing to pay you for your time. im planning to open a machineshop here in philippines but i dont know who really knows how to operate this thing
@@Perez. feel free to send me an email with the details - a photo of the part you’re trying to copy - and if you’d like, check out some of my other videos on how to make a CNC machine for low cost.
Why not use a stop block against the mounting plate so you don’t have to rezero every time you take it out of the block? It the rezero op just more accurate?
Both ways would work. If I didn’t have a probe I’d likely use the stop. Using the probe is quick and gives me confidence it’s in the right spot.
What probe are you using? I know you use acorn obviously but I run mach 4 with a Pokeys57 breakout board on my PM728VT and I see it also has probing features.
It’s the drewtronics probe. Check it out at drewtronics.org
@@adamdebowski2037 is yours the S5000LED TTS?
@@dirtboy896 yes - exactly - except it has the non-tormach whip because I’m using it w an Acorn. You’ll have to email Drew and he’ll make it for you same price if that’s what you need
@@adamdebowski2037 oh Ok I thought the TTS meant the style of where the tool holder goes into the spindle. I guess that doesn’t matter anyways. I use mach 4
@@dirtboy896 you are right. When I say “whip” I’m talking about the wiring coming out of the tool holder. There is a tormach connector that drew sells standard w the probe to be used in a tormach machine. If you don’t have a tormach, you don’t need or want that connection.
What do you do if you have a hole or feature that too small to fit the probe in?
I would use a conical edge finder for location, and a gage pin for size.
what's the story behind the serial number etc. written on your fixture plate? inventory management?
You got it 👍
subbed
Hey! Very nice and clean work! I would like to build a cnc from such a mill, any links? :)
Cheers! I’ve got a video where I go through my build in details with links/pricing/everything. Check it out if you’re interested!
I have a 1992 Nissan dually and broke a driveline yoke part ,just a small hand size part, is it possible to make one ?
Hi Mark - hard to say without seeing the part and it’s details
What is that touch probe you are using, would you happen to have a link by any chance?
Yes the website is in the video - drewtronics.org
@@adamdebowski2037 oop my bad should've watched the whole vid haha thank you!
Hi Adan
I going to order the probe, where i can get the wire diagram for connections?
How difficult for setup the probe?
If i have problem do you can help me ?
Thank you
Wagner Damotta
Hi Wagner, I'm not sure you'll find a wiring diagram, but it is a very easy setup. I'll try to describe the wiring. Drew will build you a "custom" probe (for the same price) for use with the centroid control that has two leads coming out of the body in the form of a female connector. He will also supply a short "whip" of the two leads terminated at the male connector that plugs into the probe body. You'll plug one lead into the acorn board's "com" terminal, and one into a designated probe terminal on the control board (that you define in the acorn wizard), then define a few other properties in the centroid setup wizard (like the probe being a normally open type) and that's all. The centroid probing routines will work! If you have issues, I can most definitely help trouble shoot any problems. One more thing: I would ask Drew to supply a spare female connector that you can make a bracket for to use as a "holster" for the cable when the probe isn't loaded in the spindle (just for extra "neatness" instead of having a dangling cable somewhere during other machining operations).
How did you get your measurements from the probe to solidworks?
Hi Ragnar. One at a time - measure, draw. Measure, draw. Measure, draw.
@@adamdebowski2037 That sounds pretty time consuming.