Hi Jim, So very disappointed to only find your excellent videos just today! I have binge-watched all your grounding and bonding videos and taken notes. If I may say you are a lightning rod of clarity! Sadly I started with the ARRL Grounding and Bonding handbook and spent hours and hours of time trying to sort through it all while also studying (not watching!) YT videos by various authors and also reviewing all the comments as well. So much contradicting opinion with just enough fact sprinkled in to confuse a new amateur. For me setting up my first station (IC-7300 arrived today!) your diagram at 9:06 is perfect and pretty much tells me what I need to do. Although the radio room is on the second floor, the window is less than 16ft from the common service ground and I won't need to bring the ground back through the wall to attach the braided cable to the panel. Also, no need to get another ground rod and bond it to the service ground. I wish the ARRL had asked you to write the book - so many of us would have been better served. Sincerely & 73, John - KK7JBZ
The last few seconds of this episode is where I get hung up. The final diagram shows two return paths to earth, one from the “common point bond” in green and one through the safety ground on the electrical plugs. How do these multiple paths not present a potential issue or even risk? This is definitely a point where there’s considerable disagreement, even between the electrically educated. I’ve asked multiple engineering-credentialed electrical people these questions over the years and have yet to get a consistent answer.
I really on the reference made in the video. From my experience, follow the NEC and Mikes advice. The effectiveness and even the existence of so called RF Grounds is debatable in most applications at amateur stations. My over the top grounding system at the new QTH is a test bed and will be the subject of a lot of RUclips videos as I explore the effectivenes of this huge ground system. Thanks, Jim W6LG
Excellent breakdown of station bonding and grounding!. One question. How do I know I have RFI in or around my shack? I never have had any complaints from the Wife or neighbors saying I talking through the toaster.
HI Jim, I just became a new subscriber. Good stuff. I just purchased a new place, 5 acres with two buildings, a house and a garage workshop. I am converting the garage to an office and a place for my radio gear. I hired a general contractor and had the electrical system inspected. There is an electrical service entry about 40 yards in front of the house. It had one ground rod. I added another and bonded. A PVC run to the garage, 130 feet away from the service entry carries the electrical wiring to the garage. There are breaker panels in both buildings. In the garage, we found a efer ground, green wire attached to rebar in the foundation. The foundation is only 24x24. I had already had him install a ground rod just outside the garage panel and we bonded the new ground rod with the garage panel with number 6 bare copper wire. We also ran new #6 from the garage panel to the service entry via the existing PVC. I now have the efer ground and the ground rod we placed outside the garage panel meaning two ground systems at the garage panel. That worries me as the impedance could be different. I am installing a radio tower just 25 feet from the first ground rod we installed at the garage panel. Four more ground rods will be installed, one for each leg of the tower and one more 10 feet away from the first ground rod at the breaker panel on its way to the three tower ground rods. I plan to bond all ground rods and to the panel as well. This plan came from page 6-11 within the ARRL ground book. What do you think? Should I disconnect the efer ground? Any other thoughts? Thanks, Brad N6GR
Jim thanks for reaching out to Mike Holt. He is one of the best on the subject. You might be the only ham on RUclips giving out good advice. As an electrician is makes me cringe some of the dangerous, ineffective and just plain stupid grounding and bonding tips other hams are giving out. Taking a look at ARRL's Grounding and Bonding book right now to see how accurate it is.
Happy birthday Jim. I hope that the house move goes well with you. I just passed my exam last week, so now I am an official "Ham" as you American chaps say. I would like to thank you for all your help in getting me through the exam. I have watched so many of your brilliant videos and obviously some of the great information therein went in there. Thank you sir. May you have another 70 years of good health ahead of you. Cheers Syd EI3IED
Many happy returns Jim, Excellent video. Interesting to compare the electrical supply arrangement in the USA to that utilised here in the UK. The supply arrangement shown looks similar to our TNCS arrangement, with the neutral and earth combined at the origin but separate in the installation. We generally supply domestic at single phase (1 hot wire) at 230v. In the Uk we don’t use the term ground, I think this can lead to some confusion. Protective conductors, CPCs (Circuit Protective Conductors) and Bonding Conductors are installed for safety to provide protection against electric shock. They are generally selected and sized so that a fault impedance is low enough to ensure that circuit breakers will operate quickly to disconnect a supply and that exposed and extraneous conductive parts remain at the same potential during a fault condition. A protective conductor is expected (designed) to carry current in a fault condition and not in necessarily in normal operation. In a domestic setting they are unlikely to have been designed to provide Functional Earthing, although they may be capable of doing so! A Functional Earth Connection serves a purpose other than providing protection against electric shock. A functional earth connection may carry a current during the normal operation of the connected equipment and may be required for ICT equipment, filters & radio equipment. In a commercial setting you would expect the equipment manufacturer to specify the specific requirements for Functional Earthing. I think that generally in the UK protective earthing is used to provide functional earthing also. As highlighted in your video some care is required. It is essential that the operation of the Protective Earthing (installed for safety) is not compromised in any way by its utilisation as a functional earth. It is also worth noting that the installations protective earthing may not provide a good functional earth and as such supplementary arrangements will become necessary. Always enjoy the videos, 73s Mark (M0HZX)
Thanks. Three major health problems are getting me down some of the time. I am hoping to find that Radio Room with a house attached where I can walk on relatively level ground. My biggest fear is falling and breaking my hip (severe osteoporosis). That can be a one-way ticket. Thanks again and 73, Jim
I do all these thing with the exception of my metal antenna mast is connected to a dedicated ground rod next to the mast. I will do the same on my future tower. Why? Because the mast/tower is electrically isolated from my home electrical system and radio equipment, it merely supports my antennas and coax but does not interact with them electrically. I much prefer to keep it that way, as stray RF is minimal. A lightning strike to the metal mast or tower, the most likely scenario, will be absorbed and diffused by the ground at the tower and not make it's way back into my home electrical panel. Remember, lightning always takes the shortest path to ground. All my radio equipment, appliances are tied into my home panel ground. Coax is disconnected when not in use.
I deleted my original comment. I misunderstood what you were saying. The question I have is: Is there such a thing as an RF ground? Why would current flow into the ground. AC, sure, back to the source which could be the panel or a tranformer at the pole. But why would RF go that way? Would there be RF on the equipment that is looking for a low impedance path to ground? I sort of think not. Yes about the grounding conductor from the common point to the Ufer or rod(s). Experts tell me that inside equipment they try to keep braid or strap the same width all the way. They don't pinch it to fit into a solder lug. This whole radio room is an experiment on whether or not RF grounding exists. I hope to find an answer soon. Thanks again, Jim...on my meds and little off the mark today.
@@ham-radio Hey no worries! RF grounds are definitely out of my league as far as expertise goes. My main worry is a good path to ground in the event of a lightning strike.
Happy birthday Jim....I hope it was a great one...hoping the move to the new radio room is going well and you find one that is suited to your beautiful station 73 from Jeff de WD8JM
@Jim, Hello Jim. I got some Palomar Mix 31 beads to put on my times microwave LMR 400-uf I was going to put 6 of them up to the PL259 at the ftdx10 ANT input. I head it's may be good to put the mix 31 beads at the ANT on Coax just before thePL259 connecting to the Ant. Is this True??
HAPPY BIRTHDAY! 🥳🥳🥳 I think this is your third set of videos now on grounding and I understand it. I'm nowhere close to being an electrician. I'm wondering why it seems like a difficult concept. I've been a ham since 1976 and I know we all pick up our own ways of doing things. Cuz I told you once before I use a 100-watt light bulb and a socket connect one side to the hot on an AC outlet and the other to my ground bar that runs behind my equipment. It's fully illuminates. That confirms to my mind that I have satisfied what you are putting out. But why is it such a confusing topic? All grounds need to tie to one point at the service main. Even if I run double Ott entrenched all the way around my house with ground rods at least every 6 feet and an offset Tower added into that mix, etc., the way I understand it is everything needs to come back and tired of that service panel or the Ufer ground. Isn't this the long and the short of it? Basically what's being said is that you cannot have disparut grounding systems. My only real question is the efficacy of the ground on a three conductor AC outlet. Not even a GFI. Just a normal 3-prong AC outlet. That's not a big ground wire and it isn't flat.
Man, I am trying to find that Radio Room. We really need to sell this first and get the cash. This place has no loan. Real Estate in California is expensive and hot right now. Keep in Touch! 73, Jim
Hi Jim My main panel is tied to my copper water supply, should I tie everything into that or can I install another ground rod outside and tie that back to the water pipe common. That way I can tie all of my outside stuff there and one heavey guage wire back to the water pipe
You should connect to the main ground rod or Ufer ground. I would be surprised to see a house grounded to the water pipe. Near the main panel, there should be some kind of ground and connections to a common point near that that ground. My read of the NEC is that all grounds go to the common point ground near the main panel. 73, Jim
@@ham-radio this house was built in 1959. I checked, and the only ground lead is to the city water supply which is copper. (They are going to be going all pvc). I did some work around my foundation and found 2 very old rusty ground rods, which leads me to believe that someone decided the water supply would be a better option. I already pounded a 6 ft ground rod in the ground and have a second one that I can use. I think I will bond those back to my service panel ground bus as well. Would it be ok to leave or should I leave the connection to my water supply? The grounding wire goes from the main shutoff box to my water pipe which are on adjacent corners (50 ft of wire 12-3 awg) it is not a good setup. Ps yes on the Ufer ground. If I were building a new house I would be using an Ufer ground for sure!! Thanks so much for your help. I understand the concepts alot better now
Thank you for the videos, hope you had a great birthday, Just wondering why not to daisy chain, and should flat strap be used from the equipment to the common conductor, I seem to have quite the rf problem as all of our touch light throughout our house go on and off with every transmit. (wife not happy). Thank you 73.........KE8MIG
Thanks Jim and Mike. This is very much needed, I believe. One question: I have a good supply of heavy 7 strand insulated copper cable, each strand is 3/64" thick. Would this be sufficient to use as a bonding jumper to join 2 earth rods? Be well. 73 KC3BXZ Joe
I believe the code says size 6 AWG. Joe, I think what you have is even bigger that what the code requires. So, for an AC ground it should be fine. For RF grounds in general, a flat wide strap is best. Copper strap, plumber's tape, pipe strap are good examples. Braid is debatable when used outside. Thanks Joe & 73 Jim Heath W6LG
Thank you Jim. I do have a lot of copper braid for use inside. My shack is quite humble and low budget and I live in the country and very few sources to cause much trouble, except the dang smart meter.
Wow Jim... Just watched your latest video where you said 5/23/2019 was your 70th birthday. Well my 70th birthday was yesterday...5/24/2019. Happy birthday and all the best.Bob RungeKillingly, CTW1LSZ
Hi Jim, Hope you get a quick sale and find your ideal new Shack soon. My 10 m (32') mast is around 11 m (36') from the wall of the house (and Shack entrance point). Would you regard this as 'some distance from house' or 'next to house', in terms of your slides? I am debating whether to mount my 'protection box' on the wall at the cable entry point to the Shack, or at the base of the mast. The steel box will enclose the surge suppressors on a copper bar - the bar will also serve as the 'Intersystem Bonding Termination'. I have size 2 AWG (35 mm2) cable for bonding among earth rods and to bring the Shack common earth point outside to the copper bar. Grateful your suggestions on placement of the steel protection box - '@wall' or '@mast'. 73 Peter VK2FALF
Hi Jim, Can I run a grounding jumper overhead along my eave to get back to my service grounding point. I have a pool deck interrupting a clear path underground. I have a ground rod at my mast near the house but, from your video it looks like the shack is grounded separately from the house. Craig KD4HRS BTW Great job videos very informative!
I don't think I said that in the video. All ground wires connect together at the main panel. I think I mentioned flat wide strap and as short as possible. The house is not grounded separately. Everything together, all equipment is bonded together. Read the point in the table that I prepared. Thanks Craig for the question. 73, Jim
Jim W6LG Hello again and thanks for responding. I apologize for not describing my set up better. My mast is outside my shack and all equipment is bonded to the earth ground at the mast which is on the other side of the house from the ground at my service meter. I don’t have any other way to connect the 6AWG bonding jumper to the two ground rods unless I go overhead. I meant to say in my first question is that my shack appears to be grounded separately from the house.
And maybe I was too fast to get the correct information. As I understand the NEC, everything has to connect to the terminal (termination) at the main panel; everything to the same point. Number 6AWG would be almost no ground for RF at that distance. It would be too high impedance. Craig, does the pool have a bunch of rebar? That could be more of an Ufer ground. I would connect to that massive ground. 73, Jim W6LG
Jim W6LG Good stuff. That sounds like my only option. Now I have a bigger problem explaining to the DW why I am taking a chipping hammer to the corner of the pool deck. :)
I made it last night and this after noon. Trying to answer the questions posed by many in emails to me. All were good questions and very helpful to the process. Take care Glock, 73, Jim
Happy birthday Jim. Not just is NEC an inacessible read, it's pretty boring. Now what I find a bit more intriguing is the EE PHD who advocates countervailing NEC in the shack and removing ground prongs from station equipment. If I recall his argument was that the neutral wires in your home will act as antennas. Seems to me those possible signals and common mode also, would be fed off to ground, not entering our radios. Defeating the safety ground on any '"appliance" is ill advised, in my view. Have a meaningful memorial day. 73, de KE0RFZ.
Agreed. I was unable to find out where he earned a PHD from any university. In any case, I agree with you about removing the safety ground. The NEC is very complicated but also very good at protecting us. It is an impressive set of regulations. We're lucky to have that resource available to us and guys like Mike Holt to help figure it out. Thanks again for your input. 73, Jim W6LG
Always nice to hear from you Don. No luck so far in selling this great house. We need to cash out in order to buy the next Radio Room. Some nice places have come and gone in the last few weeks in the area where we will buy. I will be doing a series of videos on how we hams have a difficult time finding a place where we can go on the air without the problems of HOA's, CC&R's, Zoning, Historic Districts and more. See you soon Don! 73, Jim
Hi Jim, When I wanted to put up a tower in 1979, all our township engineer required was detailed drawings with specs and that the tower , if it were to fall, would land inside the property line. I wanted to put up a 77ft Wilson Towers tubular crank up, but had to settle on a 45ft due to the fall restriction. Had no problems with the township in securing the permits. Doubt I would have such an easy go now. 73 WB3BJU
Jim thanks for reaching out to Mike Holt. He is one of the best on the subject. You might be the only ham on RUclips giving out good advice. As an electrician is makes me cringe some of the dangerous, ineffective and just plain stupid grounding and bonding tips other hams are giving out. Taking a look at ARRL's Grounding and Bonding book right now to see how accurate it is.
Jim thanks for reaching out to Mike Holt. He is one of the best on the subject. You might be the only ham on RUclips giving out good advice. As an electrician is makes me cringe some of the dangerous, ineffective and just plain stupid grounding and bonding tips other hams are giving out. Taking a look at ARRL's Grounding and Bonding book right now to see how accurate it is.
Hi Jim,
So very disappointed to only find your excellent videos just today!
I have binge-watched all your grounding and bonding videos and taken notes. If I may say you are a lightning rod of clarity!
Sadly I started with the ARRL Grounding and Bonding handbook and spent hours and hours of time trying to sort through it all while also studying (not watching!) YT videos by various authors and also reviewing all the comments as well. So much contradicting opinion with just enough fact sprinkled in to confuse a new amateur.
For me setting up my first station (IC-7300 arrived today!) your diagram at 9:06 is perfect and pretty much tells me what I need to do. Although the radio room is on the second floor, the window is less than 16ft from the common service ground and I won't need to bring the ground back through the wall to attach the braided cable to the panel. Also, no need to get another ground rod and bond it to the service ground.
I wish the ARRL had asked you to write the book - so many of us would have been better served.
Sincerely & 73,
John - KK7JBZ
The last few seconds of this episode is where I get hung up. The final diagram shows two return paths to earth, one from the “common point bond” in green and one through the safety ground on the electrical plugs. How do these multiple paths not present a potential issue or even risk?
This is definitely a point where there’s considerable disagreement, even between the electrically educated. I’ve asked multiple engineering-credentialed electrical people these questions over the years and have yet to get a consistent answer.
I really on the reference made in the video. From my experience, follow the NEC and Mikes advice. The effectiveness and even the existence of so called RF Grounds is debatable in most applications at amateur stations. My over the top grounding system at the new QTH is a test bed and will be the subject of a lot of RUclips videos as I explore the effectivenes of this huge ground system. Thanks, Jim W6LG
Excellent breakdown of station bonding and grounding!.
One question. How do I know I have RFI in or around my shack? I never have had any complaints from the Wife or neighbors saying I talking through the toaster.
HI Jim,
I just became a new subscriber. Good stuff.
I just purchased a new place, 5 acres with two buildings, a house and a garage workshop. I am converting the garage to an office and a place for my radio gear. I hired a general contractor and had the electrical system inspected.
There is an electrical service entry about 40 yards in front of the house. It had one ground rod. I added another and bonded. A PVC run to the garage, 130 feet away from the service entry carries the electrical wiring to the garage. There are breaker panels in both buildings. In the garage, we found a efer ground, green wire attached to rebar in the foundation. The foundation is only 24x24. I had already had him install a ground rod just outside the garage panel and we bonded the new ground rod with the garage panel with number 6 bare copper wire. We also ran new #6 from the garage panel to the service entry via the existing PVC. I now have the efer ground and the ground rod we placed outside the garage panel meaning two ground systems at the garage panel. That worries me as the impedance could be different.
I am installing a radio tower just 25 feet from the first ground rod we installed at the garage panel. Four more ground rods will be installed, one for each leg of the tower and one more 10 feet away from the first ground rod at the breaker panel on its way to the three tower ground rods. I plan to bond all ground rods and to the panel as well. This plan came from page 6-11 within the ARRL ground book.
What do you think? Should I disconnect the efer ground? Any other thoughts?
Thanks,
Brad
N6GR
Jim thanks for reaching out to Mike Holt. He is one of the best on the subject. You might be the only ham on RUclips giving out good advice. As an electrician is makes me cringe some of the dangerous, ineffective and just plain stupid grounding and bonding tips other hams are giving out. Taking a look at ARRL's Grounding and Bonding book right now to see how accurate it is.
I’m 70, and just got my General. Trying to catch up. 😎
Happy birthday Jim. I hope that the house move goes well with you. I just passed my exam last week, so now I am an official "Ham" as you American chaps say. I would like to thank you for all your help in getting me through the exam. I have watched so many of your brilliant videos and obviously some of the great information therein went in there. Thank you sir. May you have another 70 years of good health ahead of you. Cheers Syd EI3IED
Many happy returns Jim, Excellent video. Interesting to compare the electrical supply arrangement in the USA to that utilised here in the UK. The supply arrangement shown looks similar to our TNCS arrangement, with the neutral and earth combined at the origin but separate in the installation. We generally supply domestic at single phase (1 hot wire) at 230v. In the Uk we don’t use the term ground, I think this can lead to some confusion.
Protective conductors, CPCs (Circuit Protective Conductors) and Bonding Conductors are installed for safety to provide protection against electric shock. They are generally selected and sized so that a fault impedance is low enough to ensure that circuit breakers will operate quickly to disconnect a supply and that exposed and extraneous conductive parts remain at the same potential during a fault condition. A protective conductor is expected (designed) to carry current in a fault condition and not in necessarily in normal operation. In a domestic setting they are unlikely to have been designed to provide Functional Earthing, although they may be capable of doing so!
A Functional Earth Connection serves a purpose other than providing protection against electric shock. A functional earth connection may carry a current during the normal operation of the connected equipment and may be required for ICT equipment, filters & radio equipment. In a commercial setting you would expect the equipment manufacturer to specify the specific requirements for Functional Earthing.
I think that generally in the UK protective earthing is used to provide functional earthing also. As highlighted in your video some care is required. It is essential that the operation of the Protective Earthing (installed for safety) is not compromised in any way by its utilisation as a functional earth.
It is also worth noting that the installations protective earthing may not provide a good functional earth and as such supplementary arrangements will become necessary.
Always enjoy the videos,
73s Mark (M0HZX)
Happy Birthday Jim. Good to see you back!
Happy birthday! You are making excellent videos with practical applications! Keep yo the great work!
Simon, M0SYS from UK
Happy birthday Jim
Congratulations young man and may you have many many more!!!
Thanks. Three major health problems are getting me down some of the time. I am hoping to find that Radio Room with a house attached where I can walk on relatively level ground. My biggest fear is falling and breaking my hip (severe osteoporosis). That can be a one-way ticket. Thanks again and 73, Jim
Happy Birthday Jim! Very interesting video.
Thanks Tony! 73, Jim
Happy Birthday Jim!! And thanks for the great videos!!
Great video ! Thanks for posting .
Thanks John. Glad that you like it. 73, Jim
I do all these thing with the exception of my metal antenna mast is connected to a dedicated ground rod next to the mast. I will do the same on my future tower. Why? Because the mast/tower is electrically isolated from my home electrical system and radio equipment, it merely supports my antennas and coax but does not interact with them electrically. I much prefer to keep it that way, as stray RF is minimal. A lightning strike to the metal mast or tower, the most likely scenario, will be absorbed and diffused by the ground at the tower and not make it's way back into my home electrical panel. Remember, lightning always takes the shortest path to ground. All my radio equipment, appliances are tied into my home panel ground. Coax is disconnected when not in use.
I deleted my original comment. I misunderstood what you were saying. The question I have is: Is there such a thing as an RF ground? Why would current flow into the ground. AC, sure, back to the source which could be the panel or a tranformer at the pole. But why would RF go that way? Would there be RF on the equipment that is looking for a low impedance path to ground? I sort of think not.
Yes about the grounding conductor from the common point to the Ufer or rod(s). Experts tell me that inside equipment they try to keep braid or strap the same width all the way. They don't pinch it to fit into a solder lug. This whole radio room is an experiment on whether or not RF grounding exists. I hope to find an answer soon. Thanks again, Jim...on my meds and little off the mark today.
@@ham-radio Hey no worries! RF grounds are definitely out of my league as far as expertise goes. My main worry is a good path to ground in the event of a lightning strike.
Happy birthday Jim....I hope it was a great one...hoping the move to the new radio room is going well and you find one that is suited to your beautiful station
73 from Jeff de WD8JM
Happy birthday or belated brother
@Jim, Hello Jim. I got some Palomar Mix 31 beads to put on my times microwave LMR 400-uf I was going to put 6 of them up to the PL259 at the ftdx10 ANT input. I head it's may be good to put the mix 31 beads at the ANT on Coax just before thePL259 connecting to the Ant. Is this True??
Happy birthday Jim ... from 9m2du qth Malaysia...
Happy Birthday and take care. 73! Thank you for your helpful videos. Marc DJ3ABC
HAPPY BIRTHDAY! 🥳🥳🥳
I think this is your third set of videos now on grounding and I understand it. I'm nowhere close to being an electrician. I'm wondering why it seems like a difficult concept. I've been a ham since 1976 and I know we all pick up our own ways of doing things. Cuz I told you once before I use a 100-watt light bulb and a socket connect one side to the hot on an AC outlet and the other to my ground bar that runs behind my equipment. It's fully illuminates. That confirms to my mind that I have satisfied what you are putting out. But why is it such a confusing topic? All grounds need to tie to one point at the service main. Even if I run double Ott entrenched all the way around my house with ground rods at least every 6 feet and an offset Tower added into that mix, etc., the way I understand it is everything needs to come back and tired of that service panel or the Ufer ground. Isn't this the long and the short of it? Basically what's being said is that you cannot have disparut grounding systems.
My only real question is the efficacy of the ground on a three conductor AC outlet. Not even a GFI. Just a normal 3-prong AC outlet. That's not a big ground wire and it isn't flat.
Happy Birthday.. and thanks. M7FWR
Happy Birthday Jim. Hope you have many more. Also hoping you found a new radio room with a house connected to it.
Man, I am trying to find that Radio Room. We really need to sell this first and get the cash. This place has no loan. Real Estate in California is expensive and hot right now. Keep in Touch! 73, Jim
Happy birthday Jim...!
Thanks Glenn. Keep in touch. 73, Jim
I am confused, why is the radio directly connected to 120 volts in your diagram ?
Well, how about it is powered by AC. Ditto the amplifier, powered by AC. 73, Jim
Happy Birthday Jim
That's very kind. Thank you! 73, Jim
Congrads with your 70th Jim.....enjoy the celebrate. 73s Sascha
Hi Jim
My main panel is tied to my copper water supply, should I tie everything into that or can I install another ground rod outside and tie that back to the water pipe common. That way I can tie all of my outside stuff there and one heavey guage wire back to the water pipe
You should connect to the main ground rod or Ufer ground. I would be surprised to see a house grounded to the water pipe. Near the main panel, there should be some kind of ground and connections to a common point near that that ground. My read of the NEC is that all grounds go to the common point ground near the main panel. 73, Jim
@@ham-radio this house was built in 1959. I checked, and the only ground lead is to the city water supply which is copper. (They are going to be going all pvc).
I did some work around my foundation and found 2 very old rusty ground rods, which leads me to believe that someone decided the water supply would be a better option. I already pounded a 6 ft ground rod in the ground and have a second one that I can use. I think I will bond those back to my service panel ground bus as well.
Would it be ok to leave or should I leave the connection to my water supply?
The grounding wire goes from the main shutoff box to my water pipe which are on adjacent corners (50 ft of wire 12-3 awg) it is not a good setup.
Ps yes on the Ufer ground. If I were building a new house I would be using an Ufer ground for sure!! Thanks so much for your help. I understand the concepts alot better now
Happy Birthday, Jim! de N1JLK
Thank you John. Nice to hear from you. Hard to believe. Regards, Jim
Thank you for the videos, hope you had a great birthday, Just wondering why not to daisy chain, and should flat strap be used from the equipment to the common conductor, I seem to have quite the rf problem as all of our touch light throughout our house go on and off with every transmit. (wife not happy). Thank you 73.........KE8MIG
Happy birthday and thanks for being part of my radio learning journey ;)
Happy Birthday Jim DE Eric L in Vermont NJ1S
Happy Birthday it’s my wedding anniversary 35 years!! Great topic always a head scratcher...
I can't scratch too hard. Not much hair left on top. Happy Anniversary Kevin! Thanks, Jim
Thanks Jim and Mike. This is very much needed, I believe. One question: I have a good supply of heavy 7 strand insulated copper cable, each strand is 3/64" thick. Would this be sufficient to use as a bonding jumper to join 2 earth rods? Be well. 73 KC3BXZ Joe
I believe the code says size 6 AWG. Joe, I think what you have is even bigger that what the code requires. So, for an AC ground it should be fine. For RF grounds in general, a flat wide strap is best. Copper strap, plumber's tape, pipe strap are good examples. Braid is debatable when used outside. Thanks Joe & 73 Jim Heath W6LG
Thank you Jim. I do have a lot of copper braid for use inside. My shack is quite humble and low budget and I live in the country and very few sources to cause much trouble, except the dang smart meter.
Wow Jim... Just watched your latest video where you said 5/23/2019 was your 70th birthday. Well my 70th birthday was yesterday...5/24/2019. Happy birthday and all the best.Bob RungeKillingly, CTW1LSZ
Hi Jim,
Hope you get a quick sale and find your ideal new Shack soon.
My 10 m (32') mast is around 11 m (36') from the wall of the house (and Shack entrance point).
Would you regard this as 'some distance from house' or 'next to house', in terms of your slides?
I am debating whether to mount my 'protection box' on the wall at the cable entry point to the Shack, or at the base of the mast.
The steel box will enclose the surge suppressors on a copper bar - the bar will also serve as the 'Intersystem Bonding Termination'.
I have size 2 AWG (35 mm2) cable for bonding among earth rods and to bring the Shack common earth point outside to the copper bar.
Grateful your suggestions on placement of the steel protection box - '@wall' or '@mast'.
73
Peter VK2FALF
Happy Birthday from AA6JY
Happy Birthday!
Hi Jim, Can I run a grounding jumper overhead along my eave to get back to my service grounding point. I have a pool deck interrupting a clear path underground. I have a ground rod at my mast near the house but, from your video it looks like the shack is grounded separately from the house.
Craig KD4HRS BTW Great job videos very informative!
I don't think I said that in the video. All ground wires connect together at the main panel. I think I mentioned flat wide strap and as short as possible. The house is not grounded separately. Everything together, all equipment is bonded together. Read the point in the table that I prepared. Thanks Craig for the question. 73, Jim
Jim W6LG
Hello again and thanks for responding. I apologize for not describing my set up better. My mast is outside my shack and all equipment is bonded to the earth ground at the mast which is on the other side of the house from the ground at my service meter. I don’t have any other way to connect the 6AWG bonding jumper to the two ground rods unless I go overhead. I meant to say in my first question is that my shack appears to be grounded separately from the house.
And maybe I was too fast to get the correct information. As I understand the NEC, everything has to connect to the terminal (termination) at the main panel; everything to the same point. Number 6AWG would be almost no ground for RF at that distance. It would be too high impedance. Craig, does the pool have a bunch of rebar? That could be more of an Ufer ground. I would connect to that massive ground. 73, Jim W6LG
Jim W6LG
Good stuff. That sounds like my only option. Now I have a bigger problem explaining to the DW why I am taking a chipping hammer to the corner of the pool deck. :)
@@craigmonaghan4399There is an access to the grounding at the disconnect. No chipping required.
I know you made this video awhile back but happy 70th.
I made it last night and this after noon. Trying to answer the questions posed by many in emails to me. All were good questions and very helpful to the process. Take care Glock, 73, Jim
happy birthday
Happy Birthday
Thanks again Warren! 73, Jim W6LG
Hey Happy Birthday!
Happy birthday Jim. Not just is NEC an inacessible read, it's pretty boring.
Now what I find a bit more intriguing is the EE PHD who advocates countervailing NEC in the shack and removing ground prongs from station equipment. If I recall his argument was that the neutral wires in your home will act as antennas.
Seems to me those possible signals and common mode also, would be fed off to ground, not entering our radios. Defeating the safety ground on any '"appliance" is ill advised, in my view.
Have a meaningful memorial day. 73, de KE0RFZ.
Agreed. I was unable to find out where he earned a PHD from any university. In any case, I agree with you about removing the safety ground. The NEC is very complicated but also very good at protecting us. It is an impressive set of regulations. We're lucky to have that resource available to us and guys like Mike Holt to help figure it out. Thanks again for your input. 73, Jim W6LG
Hi Jim,
Happy Birthday. Are you in your new home? 73 WB3BJU
Always nice to hear from you Don. No luck so far in selling this great house. We need to cash out in order to buy the next Radio Room. Some nice places have come and gone in the last few weeks in the area where we will buy. I will be doing a series of videos on how we hams have a difficult time finding a place where we can go on the air without the problems of HOA's, CC&R's, Zoning, Historic Districts and more. See you soon Don! 73, Jim
Hi Jim,
When I wanted to put up a tower in 1979, all our township engineer required was detailed drawings with specs and that the tower , if it were to fall, would land inside the property line. I wanted to put up a 77ft Wilson Towers tubular crank up, but had to settle on a 45ft due to the fall restriction. Had no problems with the township in securing the permits. Doubt I would have such an easy go now. 73 WB3BJU
Jim thanks for reaching out to Mike Holt. He is one of the best on the subject. You might be the only ham on RUclips giving out good advice. As an electrician is makes me cringe some of the dangerous, ineffective and just plain stupid grounding and bonding tips other hams are giving out. Taking a look at ARRL's Grounding and Bonding book right now to see how accurate it is.
Happy birthday Jim
Jim thanks for reaching out to Mike Holt. He is one of the best on the subject. You might be the only ham on RUclips giving out good advice. As an electrician is makes me cringe some of the dangerous, ineffective and just plain stupid grounding and bonding tips other hams are giving out. Taking a look at ARRL's Grounding and Bonding book right now to see how accurate it is.