@@GearHeadsGarageChannel ... my 97 Taco does not have real noticeable play or squeaking BUT there is a banging noise and vibe over ANY little pavement crack, the worse the crack the worse the bang... there is 282k on the rig and original steering rack stuffs... is it these old bushings causing this or perhaps something else is going bad, any hints you might have?
Thanks for making this video bud. My steering feels lose. I replaced the tie rods and came to find power steering fluid in the rubber boots . I’m going to have to replace the whole thing. The bushings are worn too.
what did I miss? I only saw him drilling the rubber bushings, not metal fittings. But if you want to spend hours more to remove and reinstall the rack so you can fit it into a press then I guess that's up to you.
never use a drill bit to get bushings out! i saw so may shavings. remember this is aluminum housing. use a C CLAMP and cup, remove tie rods and remove rack completely. DONT BE LAZY! especially if you care about your classic. thanks, 3rd gen 4runner owner
I need to do this repair/ modification on my 04 Tacoma PreRunner 2wd. I have been looking for the correct bushings for this job but most of the kits I found seem to only be for first gen 4wd models. Does anyone know if there is any difference between the 2wd and 4wd rack and pinion bushings? Specifically I have been looking at buying the Energy Suspension 8.10103R 4WD RACK & PINION BUSHING SET which appears to also work on 2wd PreRunner models. If anyone can confirm this that would be great.
The drilling was unnecessary. All you had to do was cut the rubber flange off what a razer blade all the way around and pull it off. Then that exposes the metal sleeve to all you to pull it out, then you pop out the rubber bushings. What I don't understand is, if the steering rack is meant to be immovable, then why use rubber bushings with a metal sleeve at all? Just make your mount points for the steering rack the same diameter as the metal bolt sleeve. Done. Immovable.
OMG that sucked!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Would have given my left nut for a lift! I did find that pushing or pulling the wheels makes it much easier to get everything lined back up. And when reassembling, starting with the center vertical bolt worked best for me.
I can tell this is a 2wd truck because that bottom long bolt is too long and hits the front diff when trying to remove it on a 4wd (EDIT: the video is correct , i was wrong. Typically this long bolt is bent because of offroading and is typically needed to be cut off / replaced with a grade 8 bolt. )
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel Hey youre right , i was smoking that good good. But seriously - it turns out that the oem bolt is regularly bent thus doesn't come out - and the last guy put it in backwards before installing the diff so it didnt have enough room to come out. Only solution was to cut off the bolt head and replace with a grade 8. I digress , the video is correct!
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That's a great tip for removing old bushings by drilling them out
Every video I've seen so far says you must remove the tie rods in order to gain wiggle room. Glad to see you didn't have to.
Great video, Jesse. I've always liked upgrading to poly bushings. They just work better and last longer. Looking forward to the next chapter.
Thanks man! Yes I already have ran this out in the desert a couple times and some rock trails and have no play or squeaking or anything.
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel ... my 97 Taco does not have real noticeable play or squeaking BUT there is a banging noise and vibe over ANY little pavement crack, the worse the crack the worse the bang... there is 282k on the rig and original steering rack stuffs... is it these old bushings causing this or perhaps something else is going bad, any hints you might have?
Thanks for making this video bud. My steering feels lose. I replaced the tie rods and came to find power steering fluid in the rubber boots . I’m going to have to replace the whole thing. The bushings are worn too.
Thanks for the video! There are hundreds video about welding but not bushing. It helps me lot.
Just what I needed
I learned something today. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing! I would use a Channellock or press instead of drilling into a metal fitting IMO.
what did I miss? I only saw him drilling the rubber bushings, not metal fittings. But if you want to spend hours more to remove and reinstall the rack so you can fit it into a press then I guess that's up to you.
I bet the new bushings will make a huge difference 👍😁
Certainly!
Thanks for a very helpful video!
Thanks for the video
? So there is NO need to remove the swaybay out of the way for this? nor a need to undo the tierod ends?
never use a drill bit to get bushings out! i saw so may shavings. remember this is aluminum housing. use a C CLAMP and cup, remove tie rods and remove rack completely. DONT BE LAZY! especially if you care about your classic.
thanks,
3rd gen 4runner owner
Oreileys told me they don't sell bushings for these
Just did it this way, he makes it look 10x easier. Them bearing don’t wanna come out. And lining the bolts back up is a pain
Is an alignment needed after this upgrade?
Yes recommended.
Is it the same process for a 2 Wheel rack and pinion? I’m having a hard time finding a video that applies to a 2 Wheel Dr. Tacoma?
You did not have to detach it from the steering column???
What a terrible time for the camera to go out of focus
Do you need to remove the tires to drop the steering rack?
Just to change the bushings no though depending on your case it may be easier. Its been awhile since I did this but I thjnk I left the tires on.
What about Toyota t100?
Having trouble with the bushings seating properly. Tried using a rubber mallet and nothing
it's impossible to move the steering rack out without disconnected the steering rod to the steering rack. Please comments
Mine didn’t pull away the steering & outer tie rod won’t let it pull away 🥴
Am a steering engineer by profession I work and repair all kinds of steering pump and racks
Anyone know if you can just replace the D Bushing?
Does it need an alignment after this is done?
Would be smart to do so. Only thing that might change a little is toe and steering center.
Oil leaks degrade the rubber first and foremost. Wear is minimal on these in my experience
I need to do this repair/ modification on my 04 Tacoma PreRunner 2wd. I have been looking for the correct bushings for this job but most of the kits I found seem to only be for first gen 4wd models. Does anyone know if there is any difference between the 2wd and 4wd rack and pinion bushings? Specifically I have been looking at buying the Energy Suspension 8.10103R 4WD RACK & PINION BUSHING SET which appears to also work on 2wd PreRunner models. If anyone can confirm this that would be great.
They are the same all steering racks for 4wd Tacomas and 4Runners are the same so even tho it says 4wd you can use it on your prerunner
Is this the same on a 4x4?
Yes, this one is 4x4. 2wd and 4wd is the same process
Does anyone happen to know if this is similar for an 04 4runner V8?
It is very similar except I think they are even easier to replace than these.
Thats not an 1/8" drill.
Stupid question. I just installed a new power steering rack o’rielly do I still have do this maintenance? TIA
No your bushings are brand new no reason
Not only Toyota also Mitsubishi Lancer 2004
The drilling was unnecessary. All you had to do was cut the rubber flange off what a razer blade all the way around and pull it off. Then that exposes the metal sleeve to all you to pull it out, then you pop out the rubber bushings. What I don't understand is, if the steering rack is meant to be immovable, then why use rubber bushings with a metal sleeve at all? Just make your mount points for the steering rack the same diameter as the metal bolt sleeve. Done. Immovable.
NVH
you must be recording with a Samsung
OMG that sucked!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Would have given my left nut for a lift! I did find that pushing or pulling the wheels makes it much easier to get everything lined back up. And when reassembling, starting with the center vertical bolt worked best for me.
I can tell this is a 2wd truck because that bottom long bolt is too long and hits the front diff when trying to remove it on a 4wd (EDIT: the video is correct , i was wrong. Typically this long bolt is bent because of offroading and is typically needed to be cut off / replaced with a grade 8 bolt. )
Lol you are wrong, not to mention you can SEE the axles and front diff in this video what are you smoking 🤣🤣
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel Hey youre right , i was smoking that good good. But seriously - it turns out that the oem bolt is regularly bent thus doesn't come out - and the last guy put it in backwards before installing the diff so it didnt have enough room to come out. Only solution was to cut off the bolt head and replace with a grade 8. I digress , the video is correct!
drill......cringe