LILY58 Pro - ERGONOMIC SPLIT KEYBOARD SOLDERING BUILD GUIDE (beginner friendly)
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Lily58 Pro - ERGONOMIC SPLIT KEYBOARD SOLDERING BUILD GUIDE (beginner friendly).
Featuring Microcontroller Hotswap Sockets, USB-C Pro Micro, Kailh Switch Hotswap Sockets, Acrylic Plates, Gateron Yellow Milky Top Switches, DSA Royal Navy Keycaps, QMK Firmware, Custom USB and TRRS cables by KRISCABLES etc
▼ LILY58 SPLIT KEYBOARD KITS and PARTS:
kriscables.com...
▼ CUSTOM COILED USB CABLES and AUDIO CABLES HANDMADE in PORTUGAL:
kriscables.com/
▼ Socials:
INSTAGRAM: / kriscables
DISCORD: discordapp.com...
REDDIT: / kriscables
TWITCH: / kriscables
ETSY: www.etsy.com/s...
▼ Tracks used in this video:
Drone In Ibiza - adventure
Gnarls Barkley ft Daniela Andrade - Crazy (Fanfar ft Sakso Remix)
FAUVE - Nuits Fauves (TEEMID Edit)
#mechanicalkeyboard #mechkb #customusbcables #customcables #splitkeyboard #sofle #keyboard #gmmk #tofu60keyboard #alpacaswitches
Lily58 Build Service:
kriscables.com/product/lily58-pro-build-service/
Lily58 DIY KIT and PARTS:
kriscables.com/lily58/
I'm already too lazy to lube switches....
How do you flash your controller?
Can you make a video or please give me instructions for flashing your firmware?
Will make a tutorial soon, but there are plenty on YT already
Very nice video Kris. It surely inspires me to improve for my next one! Really like the extra handheld shots that you added and the point of view that you used. Also the music selection is quite nice, even though it's a bit loud.
I also have a tip and some criticism to share;
Let's start with the tip. I think it's best if you just build half of a split keyboard on camera and just say "repeat for the other side" at the end. I feel like it saves a lot of time for me/you (less footage to edit) and for the viewer (easier to follow, less redundant).
The thing that I really didn't like is your soldering technique.
I'm talking about when you apply solder to the iron tip, and then drop it on the cold pad/pin. That really feels wrong.
The proper technique is to heat up the solder pad and pin, using the iron. Then melt the solder on the pad (not on the iron!). This creates the most reliable connection.
Also I suggest you to try the "Bevel tip" of the iron, instead of the "Conical tip" that you are using in the video. It is easier to use for this type of job.
I know, I know, I am boring. But I really had to say it. I hope you forgive me!
Other than that I really enjoyed it though, great job! 💙
Really appreciate your input Kyek !
Good point about the music, definitely will have to pay more attention to it next time when editing.
Also agree about filming only one half and then mention to repeat same process on another one, even though it's mirrored and has to be taken into the attention (especially for someone who is doing it for the first time).
About the soldering technique: it feels wrong because people are used to watch the mainstream "streamers/youtubers", which (probably most of them) learned the soldering process and techniques watching youtube videos without having any qualification, nor academic education on the matter, only soldering one way.
There are more techniques and each one can be more or less proper, more or less convenient, depending on the situation and use case. Here is an example of the similar technique of soldering that i do and use case: ruclips.net/video/6PB0u8irn-4/видео.html
I normally use it when i need to control the amount of solder that i want to use or when the pad is too small. I find it more convenient and easier for me, still achieving a clean and reliable connection.
When i solder the switches directly into the PCB i normally do the "proper way" you describe, because i find it more convenient and amount of solder is easier to control that way. On the Lily i could solder the diodes and switch sockets with solder paste and a heat gun, which is another technique. Or solder paste and use a hot plate etc etc
Which one is the proper technique ? There are many proper ways, it depends on your experience, equipment you have access to and what you find more convenient for you when doing the job.
I do have and soldered with bevel tip in the past (literally last week on an atmega processor), but on the lily i just find more convenient for me the curved tip i used, may be because i am more used to it already 🤷🏾♂️
Hey, i really appreciate the tips and the constructive criticism, it opens the door to discussion, improvement and finding more info on the matter 🍻
You are the best and gave great tips, there is nothing to apologies about ! ♥️
Wow Kailh sockets are a million times easier to solder.
Can I buy it already assembled? What is the price?
Yes, you can add the build service + the Lily58 Pro DIY Kit + 2x Controllers + extra parts you would need and you'll receive a Pre-Built one. You'll only need to insert the switches into plates and assembly the plates/case.
kriscables.com/product/lily58-pro-build-service/
I must say it is one of the most beautiful videos I've seen on RUclips.
OMG thank you so much ! ❤
I was always taught to heat the work not the solder, but your way looks like it works better for you? I wonder if that is why i am still so bad at soldering
When it comes to soldering there are many techniques. The one shown i use when i have tight space and i do need to control better the amount of solder or i do have any other restrain. Otherwise i do use the classic technique: tin the footprint and then heat the component and solder it into place.
@@kriscables well just finished soldering controller, switches and diodes for my first board (lily58 as in video) and i have 4 switches that dont work. I think melted something on the board or components by making it too hot with my dodgy soldering. Any advice for fixing that sort of thing would be greatly appreciated right now! :)
very bad form to heat solder not work.. it won't last like that.
It that small desktop fan made with Noctua fan?
YES
I am confused, I thought there is a hotswap version of Lily58 Pro, do you still have to solder?
You have to solder the hotswap sockets, diodes, controller, trrs etc or use the solder/build service for it to come already soldered: kriscables.com/product/lily58-pro-build-service/
@@kriscables Thank you very much 🙏
Do the mid or high profile accommodate for a wireless version? Are there cutouts for access to the power switches and reset button?
Any Lily58 case work with nice!nano controllers (wireless and/or wired) and you have access to anything you'll need.
NO SOUND TEST IS CRIMINAL
it is indeed, in the future videos i'll include it
How to find the long pin for the pro micro?
I used through hole diode legs, but i recommend using mill max pins kriscables.com/product/mill-max-socket-pins/
HOLY BASS!!! do not watch with headphones on
I like the naked Noctua just spinning away in the background :)
Yeah, it is relaxing having it there
Hey can you tell me what temperature you used to solder the diodes and the hot swappable switch sockets? Thanks!
240 degree Celsius !
Nice! A welcome guide, obrigado.
I'm looking forward to build a Lilly after I sell my NuPhy, hope you have enough inventory :D
Até breve.
Buona Sera ! Grazie !
Plenty LILY58 kits in stock and many more DIY keyboard kits are on the way ;)
Essa tradução aí ficou errada
You need to add some flux and isopropyl Alcohol to your kit.
Flux makes solder flow better
And the ipa to clean your mess up after.
Appreciate the input !
How can i do if i want to add a knob instead of a key below the controller in both sides. Also to attach a battery and a low profil setup.
Handwire Rotary Encoder to Lily58 Pro Guide
kriscables.com/handwire-rotary-encoder-split-keyboard/
Beautiful keyboard, but reaffirmed that I’m going to get an Iris or something with a controller and diodes pre-soldered.
You can get the Lily58 also pre-soldered using my build service:
kriscables.com/product/lily58-pro-build-service/
@@kriscables 👀
hard. The soft soft interface is quite friendly
I think you crazy
What's that other keyboard in the background (regular QWERTY but with split space bar)
It's a KBD67 R2 with EPBT BoW Keycaps
I'm gonna build one with nice nanos, can I use this guide?
Yes you can !
Is soldering all those diodes in the beginning just for rgb? Do I have to do that if I don't want any RGB?
The diodes are for making your keystrokes to work. Lily's PCBs on kriscables.com doesn't support RGB leds soldered directly, only led strips. Here is a How to add Lily58 RGB underglow backlighting guide for that:
kriscables.com/lily58-rgb-underglow-backlighting/
@@kriscables thanks!
The final result is so cool :-o.
I would appreciated a sound test at the end to hear if it thock or not ^^.
I think this could be my ultimate keyboard if there weren't that much solders.
Very good job at those btw.
You're so precise and delicate, I know I don't have those skills to do a so good job ^^
Yeah, i definitely should have made a sound test and probably how to flash the controllers at least. I learned a ton making this video about what i should have done and should have not.
I most probably will make another one soon. A more complete and more "express" version of this build guide.
Thank you so so much for kind words ! It means a lot to me ❤
@@kriscables My pleasure ;-).
I'm a developer and those times, I'm a sucker for everything that is related to keyboards.
I really don't like the big peace I'm using right now. Not efficient AF...
I'm wondering if it's not too hard to getting used to small splitted keyboard though.
Anyway, thanks again for this very well done video ^^
@@Mortagus It depends from person to person and how you handle barriers and overpass them. The fact that you map each key to anything you want with QMK definitely will decrease the learning/adapting curve. The first time i typed on a split keyboard i made 28WPM, while on a 60%/65% i normally do 55WPM and my typing isn't the most correct, since i just use 2 fingers only on each hand. I think if you are willing to learn and put some effort you adapt pretty quickly to a split and won't look back at your chunk anymore haha
Hi, what is the difference in process if I want to make this keyboard wireless?
Hello,
1) If you have pro micro socketed (with controller sockets + mill max pins) - just take them out and substitute with Nice!Nano controllers ( you can get them from here: kriscables.com/product/nicenano/ )
2) Flash the nice!nano with ZMK Firmwate (here is the guide for that: kriscables.com/zmk-firmware-nicenano/ )
3) Solder the batteries to nice!nano
Done !
@@kriscables Coolio. Thanks for the help!
thank you for video, Kris
Uhhh so i dont really know which one i want, i want a ergo keyboard but i am torn between the lily58 and the corne, i dont really know which one would be easier for a first split keyboard, it wouldn't be my first custom keyboard tho so yea.
Do you need number row ? Then Lily58 Pro, otherwise Corne. Lily is 58 keys, Corne - 42 keys. Lily58 Pro doesn't have RGB underglow, nor per-key RGB, but Corne Cherry V3 does have both. Soldering rgb leds isn't easy and not beginner friendly though. Both can be built wireless with nice!nano + zmk firmware. Both support OLED Screens. Hope this helps on the decision :)
Here are some links in case you want to check:
Corne Cherry V3:
kriscables.com/product/corne-cherry-kit/
Nice!Nano controller to make your keyboard wireless:
kriscables.com/product/nicenano/
@@kriscables honestly i think i am probably go for the lily58, i do like how small the corne is but not having a num row is gunna be painful plus i dont know shit on how to make it wireless so i dont make a difference to me tbh
@@Nukunyx to make Corne or Lily58 Pro wireless you need to compile ZMK firmware + 2x Nice!Nano. I have a guide for that here: kriscables.com/zmk-firmware-nicenano/
@@kriscables okii ty honestly i dont really mind it being wires but yea pretty nice that i could make it wireless
Hello, this video was verry helpful fur me, but i have one question. Is it possible add OLDE displasplays to this keyboard?
Yes, you can add OLED Display to Lily58 Pro kriscables.com/product/oled-display/
Check this video i made also related to oled screen:
ruclips.net/video/7pTa-x7BiP0/видео.htmlsi=VGPgPrXmWEv3Qapv
This was genuinely so helpful. I know it's kind of an absurd thing to request, but anyway you could do a break down for the Corne split ergonomic keyboard like this? It has some very similar components, but the diodes are "through hole" and it's a bit more complicated than I was anticipating.
Glad to know it helped ! I might have something coming soon related to Corne split :) Keep an eye on my blog kriscables.com/blog
@@kriscables I already saved it for future reference haha. Thank you!
Looks great, thanks for sharing! Would you mind telling me what temperature you use on your iron? Your soldering looks quick and effortless.
Many thanks ! 240 degree Celsius
Thank you! @@kriscables
Nice moneyshots! Very well soldered.
THANK YOU SO MUCH !
tNice tutorialngs
Thank you ! Obrigado ! ❤
Is soldering required to do the build or is it at all optional?
It's required. You need to solder on the TRRS sockets, the microcontrollers and the switches or hot-swap sockets.
As @moritz said, it is required to solder all the components. If you need it pre-assembled you always can use the build service kriscables.com/product/lily58-pro-build-service/
I've never seen someone take a little bit of solder on to the iron and then move that over and transfer it to a contact instead of bringing the solder wire to the contact. That's wild. Looks so clean. I must try that!
Amazing!!!
Loved the music, loved the result, nice edits, I love it all!
You definitely got me a new hobby. :D
I mean it, this is beautiful
appreciate your words, means a ton to me !