have you thought about adding an xbox joystick to the keyboard as replacement for the mouse with a function key to swithc between moving the mouse and scroll? saw this on splitted "gaming" keyboards with a joystick for the thumbs and thought this might be an interesting idea
As a Thinkpad enthusiast I would love this idea. Ideally Trackpoint would be used, but that's very hard to implement. Xbox joystick would work, just not sure how comfortable it would be, since the joystick is kinda big. I haven't seen people using xbox joystick yet, can you link it, please? I know a lot of people use Pimoroni trackball on their keyboard, but that's not my thing either. github.com/greyhatmiddleman/crkbd-pimoroni-trackball
Believe me an analog joystick as a mouse is really difficult and frustrating to use. The correct approach would be to add an trackball, a track point or a track mouse like old back berry phone.
Hi, greate tutorial! Please can you film how do you order the pcb? which files to use and how to setup manufacture's form (pcbway or any other). Thanks!
I wanted to have acrylic as low as possible and I still wanted to have the display easily removable, so standard headers would be still too tall for me. Also since I used those "fancy" headers on arduino, I have decided to use them on the display as well.
Thanks. I found in my old notes that this has costed me by rough estimate 60euros / 68usd in parts. Price now would be definitely higher now unfortunately. For example Arduinos doubled in price... Also there are other things affecting the price. If you own 3D printer or have access to free 3D printer, then the case will be significantly cheaper. Building in bulk also makes things significantly cheaper, because for example you need to order 5 PCBs (from PCB manufacturer) even if you are building one keyboard.
Probably around $100-$150 depending on your switch choice and whether or not you already have keycaps. The "essentials" (everything besides the switches/caps) cost me around $80. Purchased this week from various different sites. Details: PCB Kit (plus TRRS/Tact Switch) - $15 (Boardsource) Diodes - $2.5 (Boardsource) Case - $24 (Boardsource) Hotswap Sockets - $7.5 (Boardsource) Pro Micro 2x - $17 (Keehive) Oled Screens 2x - $10 (AliExpress) Total: $76 + shipping/tax All that said, you can easily bump the price up by a few hundred if you get a fancy case + caps + switches. Really up to you, but I'd say $100 is the minimum if you already have switches
You have to download gerber files from release page github.com/foostan/crkbd/releases/tag/corne-classic-v2.0.0 (I should probably link this in the description directly). Leave these files in .zip format, don't unzip them. Then head on jlcpcb or pcbway site. There you will upload the files and order manufacturing of the pcbs. If you have any more questions, you can ask them.
I personally prefer Corne over Dactyl. I loved the idea behind Dactyl, it's extremely customization and more ergonomic, but finding the right shape of Dactyl that fits you the best is long journey, a lot of trial and errors. Flat split keyboards works for me better. I use Levinson let's split most of the time, but I would like to have Corne with two extra keys on the outer bottom (but I'm too lazy to learn KiCad to edit the Corne PCB, haha, maybe one day).
@@flip4119 Hmm, I just briefly look into it and you are right. They do need 5 hole mounting instead of standard 3 hole mounting, which not every PCB has, but Corne Classic V2 PCB does have 5 holes to mount switches. Now I'm tempted to order some since I have some extra PCBs around. Anyway, once you have parts, let me know if it fits. And I would also love to see photo of your finished build.
Writing a bit late, but alternatime name for the Corne is CRKBD, so the github is github.com/foostan/crkbd . This build is Corne Classic. I do also want to make build video of Corne Cherry with hotswap sockets, just not sure when I will have time, haha.
@@infiniteoffset All good with the answer. I ended up making a Cherry Corne with a hotswap and a socket for the promicro. My case is also 3d printed, inspired by you, as I think it would cost less than the acrylic. Thanks for the vid, it is so helpful!
Thanks for really nice video that made the soldering looks simple :) Can this corne be run with a nice!nano to go wireless instead of pro micro? I have also plan to use choc switches
@@nafiskarim665 You mean the pin headers at 3:16? You can use either standard pin headers or the smaller ones that I have used. They are 0.5mm in diameter so I used 0.5mm solid wire for them on the arduino side (but 0.6mm could probably be used as well, maybe even more reliable, but haven't tested that). Spacing is 2.54mm as standard pin headers. If you want to know the exact one that I have ordered, look for the link in the description.
@@infiniteoffset No, I mean solder wire that melts and the soldering iron . How thin the solder wire and tip of the solder iron needs to be ? Speaking about the pin headers , will this work (instead of headers with cables like you used) m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81ntVAyNqqL._SL1500_.jpg ?
@@nafiskarim665 Ah, I understand now. I use 1mm thick solder wire for everything. Size doesn't matter that much, but I wouldn't use anything above 1mm. Size 0,75mm might be easier to use for smaller components. Or 0,5mm could be doable as well. And if you can, get solder with lead. My favorite solder is Fluitin 1532, but that thing is illegal here in EU now. For the soldering tip, just use the default one. I don't have experience with thinner ones, I only have default one and thick one, but for soldering Corne default tip is fine. Yes, those pin headers will work. You can either use this male side and solder it on booth arduino and corne pcb similarly like I did with Levinson keyboard here ruclips.net/video/2BzNDQHCyEw/видео.html . This will give you nice slim profile, however in case you damage arduino (for example rip USB port), replacing it will be harder. For quick swapping it, you could use female header counter part www.pololu.com/product/1031 , but the height of that will be bigger.
Haha, thanks. I already made white corne case and black corne case before, so I wanted to experiment with something more unique and asymmetric, but too bad that colors of keys and color of print doesn't match up.
@@tommyweaver2845 Yeah, I usually prefer symmetry as well. This was experiment. But hey, great thing about 3d printing is that I can have new set of cases in 10 hours of printing time if I decide on a different colors.
Great video! However you should never plug in/out the TRRS cable while the USB cable is connected - it can fry the Pro Micro board easily
I didn't know that, thanks for letting me know. I guess that the connector can short while plugging it?
@@infiniteoffset I believe it can cause a voltage spike and damage the board
Thank you for that comment! I'm soon going to assemble a Lily58 with pro micros and I _for sure_ would've done that sooner or later!
how come there's no handwired corne build on YT
have you thought about adding an xbox joystick to the keyboard as replacement for the mouse with a function key to swithc between moving the mouse and scroll? saw this on splitted "gaming" keyboards with a joystick for the thumbs and thought this might be an interesting idea
As a Thinkpad enthusiast I would love this idea. Ideally Trackpoint would be used, but that's very hard to implement. Xbox joystick would work, just not sure how comfortable it would be, since the joystick is kinda big. I haven't seen people using xbox joystick yet, can you link it, please?
I know a lot of people use Pimoroni trackball on their keyboard, but that's not my thing either. github.com/greyhatmiddleman/crkbd-pimoroni-trackball
Believe me an analog joystick as a mouse is really difficult and frustrating to use. The correct approach would be to add an trackball, a track point or a track mouse like old back berry phone.
At 7:56 Cani use the soldering wire?
I would not recommend that, soldering wire can crack after time. Copper core wire works the best.
Hi, greate tutorial! Please can you film how do you order the pcb? which files to use and how to setup manufacture's form (pcbway or any other). Thanks!
That's a great suggestion. Next time I'm doing video I will include that part, or I will make separate video for that.
@@infiniteoffset thanks!)
Wondering why you didn’t use the pins that were originally on the displays?
I wanted to have acrylic as low as possible and I still wanted to have the display easily removable, so standard headers would be still too tall for me. Also since I used those "fancy" headers on arduino, I have decided to use them on the display as well.
Oh, and I put different pins on the display because those "fancy" headers use thinner pins than the standard headers.
great tutorial!!!
how much did it cost totally!
Thanks. I found in my old notes that this has costed me by rough estimate 60euros / 68usd in parts. Price now would be definitely higher now unfortunately. For example Arduinos doubled in price...
Also there are other things affecting the price. If you own 3D printer or have access to free 3D printer, then the case will be significantly cheaper. Building in bulk also makes things significantly cheaper, because for example you need to order 5 PCBs (from PCB manufacturer) even if you are building one keyboard.
Probably around $100-$150 depending on your switch choice and whether or not you already have keycaps. The "essentials" (everything besides the switches/caps) cost me around $80. Purchased this week from various different sites.
Details:
PCB Kit (plus TRRS/Tact Switch) - $15 (Boardsource)
Diodes - $2.5 (Boardsource)
Case - $24 (Boardsource)
Hotswap Sockets - $7.5 (Boardsource)
Pro Micro 2x - $17 (Keehive)
Oled Screens 2x - $10 (AliExpress)
Total: $76 + shipping/tax
All that said, you can easily bump the price up by a few hundred if you get a fancy case + caps + switches. Really up to you, but I'd say $100 is the minimum if you already have switches
5:48 버터 윤활제??
Just something I found on aliexpress and some people also recommended for cheap keyboard lube. I actually have no clue what is the lube based on.
Ho, great project. How can i order the PCB? i only see a github page with infos. Thank you
You have to download gerber files from release page github.com/foostan/crkbd/releases/tag/corne-classic-v2.0.0 (I should probably link this in the description directly). Leave these files in .zip format, don't unzip them. Then head on jlcpcb or pcbway site. There you will upload the files and order manufacturing of the pcbs. If you have any more questions, you can ask them.
Hey I built a corne too and like it a lot. I am thinking about building a dactly. Which do you prefer dactly or corne?
I personally prefer Corne over Dactyl. I loved the idea behind Dactyl, it's extremely customization and more ergonomic, but finding the right shape of Dactyl that fits you the best is long journey, a lot of trial and errors. Flat split keyboards works for me better. I use Levinson let's split most of the time, but I would like to have Corne with two extra keys on the outer bottom (but I'm too lazy to learn KiCad to edit the Corne PCB, haha, maybe one day).
Have you tried any low profile switches ? i'm about to do a Ferris Sweep build with Kaihl brown low profiles.
Haven't tried any low profile switches yet. You need to have different PCB specifically made for low profile switches, right?
@@infiniteoffset Don't believe so, but feel free to double check me.
@@flip4119 Hmm, I just briefly look into it and you are right. They do need 5 hole mounting instead of standard 3 hole mounting, which not every PCB has, but Corne Classic V2 PCB does have 5 holes to mount switches. Now I'm tempted to order some since I have some extra PCBs around.
Anyway, once you have parts, let me know if it fits. And I would also love to see photo of your finished build.
@@infiniteoffset ah sweet, and will do! Ill post an imgurr link or something on here when i build it :)
Hi, so I have been looking the Github for the Corne keyboard for a while. As for your build, do you use the Corne Classic or Corne Cherry? Thanks
Writing a bit late, but alternatime name for the Corne is CRKBD, so the github is github.com/foostan/crkbd . This build is Corne Classic. I do also want to make build video of Corne Cherry with hotswap sockets, just not sure when I will have time, haha.
@@infiniteoffset All good with the answer. I ended up making a Cherry Corne with a hotswap and a socket for the promicro. My case is also 3d printed, inspired by you, as I think it would cost less than the acrylic. Thanks for the vid, it is so helpful!
Thanks for really nice video that made the soldering looks simple :) Can this corne be run with a nice!nano to go wireless instead of pro micro? I have also plan to use choc switches
Yes, nice!nano should work with this keyboard fine.
@@infiniteoffset thanks a lot for the reply. What is/are the diameter for solder and size of the tip of the solder pin needed for this?
@@nafiskarim665 You mean the pin headers at 3:16? You can use either standard pin headers or the smaller ones that I have used. They are 0.5mm in diameter so I used 0.5mm solid wire for them on the arduino side (but 0.6mm could probably be used as well, maybe even more reliable, but haven't tested that). Spacing is 2.54mm as standard pin headers. If you want to know the exact one that I have ordered, look for the link in the description.
@@infiniteoffset No, I mean solder wire that melts and the soldering iron . How thin the solder wire and tip of the solder iron needs to be ?
Speaking about the pin headers , will this work (instead of headers with cables like you used) m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81ntVAyNqqL._SL1500_.jpg ?
@@nafiskarim665 Ah, I understand now. I use 1mm thick solder wire for everything. Size doesn't matter that much, but I wouldn't use anything above 1mm. Size 0,75mm might be easier to use for smaller components. Or 0,5mm could be doable as well. And if you can, get solder with lead. My favorite solder is Fluitin 1532, but that thing is illegal here in EU now.
For the soldering tip, just use the default one. I don't have experience with thinner ones, I only have default one and thick one, but for soldering Corne default tip is fine.
Yes, those pin headers will work. You can either use this male side and solder it on booth arduino and corne pcb similarly like I did with Levinson keyboard here ruclips.net/video/2BzNDQHCyEw/видео.html . This will give you nice slim profile, however in case you damage arduino (for example rip USB port), replacing it will be harder. For quick swapping it, you could use female header counter part www.pololu.com/product/1031 , but the height of that will be bigger.
Can u uninstall qmk after u flashed it?
Just reflash the arduino with any program.
Oh, wait, you mean from PC, right? Yes, you can do that. It's only for flashing purposes. Keyboard will work on any PC.
Nice colors! But I hate that Corne has 1.5U thumb keys, because not everyone has 1.5U DSA keys.
Exactly. There is huge variety of 1U keys, but getting 1.5U that matches them is often time next to impossible.
awesome video mate
Thanks!
Thank you
great video, thanks!
Thank you for commenting! :)
Great video, worst colors you could choose though
Haha, thanks. I already made white corne case and black corne case before, so I wanted to experiment with something more unique and asymmetric, but too bad that colors of keys and color of print doesn't match up.
nice
thanks
nice video, just bad color choice.
Thanks. I wanted to do something more exotic, but it would look nicer if colors of case and keycaps matched better.
@@infiniteoffset yeah, sorry for ur loss.
It still looks pretty cool ;) But yeah, if the keycaps were the color of the filament it would have been much better.
@@infiniteoffset The colors are ok, I prefer symmetry and would have matching cases and matching keycaps
@@tommyweaver2845 Yeah, I usually prefer symmetry as well. This was experiment. But hey, great thing about 3d printing is that I can have new set of cases in 10 hours of printing time if I decide on a different colors.