Thanks for the video. I used a Hobbywing 18a ESC and a Surpass 5500kv, for my K989. I did find out one thing though. I carefully soldered A to A, B to B, then C to C. Double checked to make sure it was right. When I went to take the car on it's maiden voyage, it ran backwards. So, I had to partially disassemble and swap 2 wires. So, what I'm saying is is that ABC doesn't always guarantee that the motor will spin the correct way.
I appreciate all of your videos! So much great information! I’m currently building my first mini drift car using a wl toys 284131 and an ACWXA Rwd kit and brushless motor setup , metal diff, and metal gear servo all with a Nissan s13 body with a wide body kit , this little drift cars are insanely fun especially since you can run them indoors! I from Washington state and it’s winter time here now , normally I would be riding y mountain bike , but it’s to cold now , so this is what I’m doing for winter! And I’m already addicted!
Love your videos, you inspired me to make a video on how I recently made my two k989's longer so they fit 1/24 or 1/25 hard plastic model bodys. Also I found a new way for doing spring set up in the front, by useing a leaf spring across the top of the front diff and clamped down by the top plate. I'll make a video soon of that.
Hello beaver I haven’t seen your videos in some time although I am subscribed , thank you so much for video I am amateur and welding motor on my GL-Racing GLR. I purchased one because of your videos made me miss the hobby. I will now catch up on all your videos thank you for making them I enjoy them a lot
What is the AWG number of the green wires you used for the Surpass Brushless? Also what is size is the bullet plug you use? - thanks for you videos Beaver helps us a lot.
The plug is JST-PH. Mostly we use Atomic, GL and Marka racing batteries. These can be found in Mini-Z racing shops. Check out Wolfram RC or Micro RC Syndicate for US/NA www.wolframrc.com/shop/lithium-polymer-packs/97 www.microrcsyndicate.com/shop/batteries/35 Or Mini-Z Racing Italia if you are in Europe. GNB (Gaoneng) is also very good. Here's one on aliexpress. The 3P (3 pin) version is what you need. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003274681868.html Be careful, this is the HV version. If you use it for racing it might not comply with the rules (overvolt). Here's the standard 7.4V version. The size is a bit different though. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002571544957.html
What if you accidentally soldered the wires backwards to a censored motor. What’s gonna happen? Is it bad? For example. The middle is correctly soldered which is B but was soldered backwards to C & A or A&C. What’s gonna happen?
If it's sensorless ESC the wiring order doesn't matter. If you wire it in a different order then it will spin backward. In the end you can still change the direction in the programming anyway. However for a sensored ESC + sensored motor, you will have to wire it in the correct order otherwise it won't spin or stutter because it doesn't spin as the program expected to read from the sensor.
Hi beaver, I'm wondering if you ever add bullets in between the Esc and motor? I've seen hobbyists simply desolder the motor. Surely bullets would increase the longevity of the connections? Are there bullets for these micro rcs?
Hi, I have an issue you might be able to help with, it's not related to this video but I wasn't sure where to ask this. Presently I am trying to add leds to my mini -z I have the kyosho led kit as well as the yeah racing led kit. I can't get either of them to light up at all. I've tried everything I can think of. Any advice would be awesome, I don't see what I could be doing wrong and its driving me nuts. Thanks in advance.
Which version of the car is it and which version of the LED kit? Because ASF/MHS/EVO car needs one type of the kit, the MZW439R with resistor that plugs into the ICS port. And Sports/FHSS needs the MZW429R.
@@tommytsunami5773 The yeah racing kit connects straight to the battery. The MZW429R should work with the AWD directly. Check if the channel 4 is turned down. If you have a multimeter, check if there's any voltage coming from the port. Also you can test if the light works simply by wiring it up with a 1.5V battery. Just use 2 wires with some tape to hold one end to the battery and stick the other to the light.
@@BeaversHobby Regarding the yeah racing kit I've searched a bunch and could not find any photos or videos to see if I was connecting correctly if you have any resources that would give me insight that would be awesome. Regarding the kyosho led's I was looking up some stuff and it looks like there are supposed to be 2 black and 2 red wires that are attached to the connector, mine only has 3...I don't know if that is an error or not though.
@@tommytsunami5773 If there are 3 wires I think it's for the ASF and EVO. As for the YR I can't find the documentation for it either but supposedly there are only 2 wires you can use so you can just put them on the battery terminals and it should work.
Unfortunately I don't know when will it become available. I only know they are working on it to be some kind of all-in-one motor with replaceable rotor to change the KV and replaceable bottom to make it interchangeable between sensored and sensorless. From the sound of it I think this will take some time.
Depends on your car. Some might need flat battery so Marka Racing 350mAh is a great choice. Some might need a narrower battery so GNB 2S 300 or 350mAh will work great.
The motor is Furitek Greyhound 5500KV. It's on the official website furitek.com/collections/motor-accessories-mini-z/products/furitek-greyhound-1410-5500kv-sensorless-motor Or you can find in your regional distributors as well. If you are in the US/NA, check out www.wolframrc.com/shop/motors/18 . For EU minizracing.it/minizshop .
I've seen it, it's Mini-Q Q6 but made of aluminium. Q6 is a good car. I'm not sure about the aluminium remake of it though. I have a Q5 aluminium remake and it's alright. It's not the best quality and I still prefer the original but the structure is stronger and drives relatively well.
@@BeaversHobby already, is that the q5 in banggood they do not have it in stock now, and this is 28 euros cheaper, and they have the rtr version (without body) for the same price as the q5
@@BeaversHobby which the q6 rtr (except body)? or wait for just the chassis and armor of the q5? You do not put heat shrinkable to the connection cables to the brushless?
@@juancar69 If you haven't got any standard radio equipment (one with 3 wire system and receiver) then the RTR is a good start. If you already have transmitter, receiver, ESC, motor and servo then the chassis only is a good choice.
It depends which 9000KV it is, if it's the new series like Surpass Rocket then it should work well. You will have to set the punch quite high so it works smoothly.
@@BeaversHobby in my country furitek momentum esc + motor surpass price is almost same with combo sensored team powers m radon, what do you prefer to buy?
@@fandykaryanto2141 Go for sensored system if you can. The startup will be smoother than sensorless. I also have the M Radon, it's pretty good although I haven't found a setup that I'm entirely comfortable driving it yet.
![[Unboxing & Testing] Furitek Aluminium Case ESC & Motor Combo](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t-t_GGWxsQ4/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Review] Furitek Cyclos Brushless Sensored ESC & Hellfire Motor for 1/28, 1/24 RC Car](/img/1.gif)
Thanks for the video. I used a Hobbywing 18a ESC and a Surpass 5500kv, for my K989. I did find out one thing though. I carefully soldered A to A, B to B, then C to C. Double checked to make sure it was right. When I went to take the car on it's maiden voyage, it ran backwards. So, I had to partially disassemble and swap 2 wires. So, what I'm saying is is that ABC doesn't always guarantee that the motor will spin the correct way.
I appreciate all of your videos! So much great information! I’m currently building my first mini drift car using a wl toys 284131 and an ACWXA Rwd kit and brushless motor setup , metal diff, and metal gear servo all with a Nissan s13 body with a wide body kit , this little drift cars are insanely fun especially since you can run them indoors! I from Washington state and it’s winter time here now , normally I would be riding y mountain bike , but it’s to cold now , so this is what I’m doing for winter! And I’m already addicted!
Love your videos, you inspired me to make a video on how I recently made my two k989's longer so they fit 1/24 or 1/25 hard plastic model bodys. Also I found a new way for doing spring set up in the front, by useing a leaf spring across the top of the front diff and clamped down by the top plate. I'll make a video soon of that.
you have taught me everything i know about rc started with mini z and here we are haha thank you so much Beaver!!
Thank you! That is such a cute little brushless system :)
Hello beaver I haven’t seen your videos in some time although I am subscribed , thank you so much for video I am amateur and welding motor on my GL-Racing GLR. I purchased one because of your videos made me miss the hobby. I will now catch up on all your videos thank you for making them I enjoy them a lot
What is the AWG number of the green wires you used for the Surpass Brushless? Also what is size is the bullet plug you use? - thanks for you videos Beaver helps us a lot.
The green wires are 20AWG which is a bit bigger than standard. Normally they use 22AWG. The bullet plug is 2mm.
Sorry for the late reply.
@@BeaversHobby hi thank again for you info, I did ordered awg 20 and 2mm bullet plugs.
Does anyone know where I can get a mini lipo for the original battery connector for this esc please
The plug is JST-PH. Mostly we use Atomic, GL and Marka racing batteries. These can be found in Mini-Z racing shops. Check out Wolfram RC or Micro RC Syndicate for US/NA www.wolframrc.com/shop/lithium-polymer-packs/97 www.microrcsyndicate.com/shop/batteries/35
Or Mini-Z Racing Italia if you are in Europe.
GNB (Gaoneng) is also very good. Here's one on aliexpress. The 3P (3 pin) version is what you need. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003274681868.html
Be careful, this is the HV version. If you use it for racing it might not comply with the rules (overvolt).
Here's the standard 7.4V version. The size is a bit different though. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002571544957.html
Beaver with your experience. What's the best all around kv for 1/24 drifting ?
What if you accidentally soldered the wires backwards to a censored motor. What’s gonna happen? Is it bad?
For example. The middle is correctly soldered which is B but was soldered backwards to C & A or A&C. What’s gonna happen?
If it's sensorless ESC the wiring order doesn't matter. If you wire it in a different order then it will spin backward. In the end you can still change the direction in the programming anyway.
However for a sensored ESC + sensored motor, you will have to wire it in the correct order otherwise it won't spin or stutter because it doesn't spin as the program expected to read from the sensor.
Great video
Very helpful!!!👍
ดูทุกคลิปเลยคับ
Hi beaver, I'm wondering if you ever add bullets in between the Esc and motor? I've seen hobbyists simply desolder the motor. Surely bullets would increase the longevity of the connections? Are there bullets for these micro rcs?
where can i buy this esc and motor?
Hi, I have an issue you might be able to help with, it's not related to this video but I wasn't sure where to ask this. Presently I am trying to add leds to my mini -z I have the kyosho led kit as well as the yeah racing led kit. I can't get either of them to light up at all. I've tried everything I can think of. Any advice would be awesome, I don't see what I could be doing wrong and its driving me nuts. Thanks in advance.
Which version of the car is it and which version of the LED kit? Because ASF/MHS/EVO car needs one type of the kit, the MZW439R with resistor that plugs into the ICS port. And Sports/FHSS needs the MZW429R.
@@BeaversHobby The kyosho led set is MZW429R and I have a ma-020 awd. The yeah racing led is YEA-LK-0035.
@@tommytsunami5773 The yeah racing kit connects straight to the battery. The MZW429R should work with the AWD directly. Check if the channel 4 is turned down. If you have a multimeter, check if there's any voltage coming from the port.
Also you can test if the light works simply by wiring it up with a 1.5V battery. Just use 2 wires with some tape to hold one end to the battery and stick the other to the light.
@@BeaversHobby Regarding the yeah racing kit I've searched a bunch and could not find any photos or videos to see if I was connecting correctly if you have any resources that would give me insight that would be awesome. Regarding the kyosho led's I was looking up some stuff and it looks like there are supposed to be 2 black and 2 red wires that are attached to the connector, mine only has 3...I don't know if that is an error or not though.
@@tommytsunami5773 If there are 3 wires I think it's for the ASF and EVO.
As for the YR I can't find the documentation for it either but supposedly there are only 2 wires you can use so you can just put them on the battery terminals and it should work.
Great clip!!! Do you know when this motor is available?
Unfortunately I don't know when will it become available.
I only know they are working on it to be some kind of all-in-one motor with replaceable rotor to change the KV and replaceable bottom to make it interchangeable between sensored and sensorless. From the sound of it I think this will take some time.
Greetings wats the best option of baterie for this upgrade ??
Depends on your car. Some might need flat battery so Marka Racing 350mAh is a great choice. Some might need a narrower battery so GNB 2S 300 or 350mAh will work great.
what is the model of this motor?
The motor is Furitek Greyhound 5500KV.
It's on the official website furitek.com/collections/motor-accessories-mini-z/products/furitek-greyhound-1410-5500kv-sensorless-motor
Or you can find in your regional distributors as well. If you are in the US/NA, check out www.wolframrc.com/shop/motors/18 .
For EU minizracing.it/minizshop .
do you know something about this? ruhazn 530, 1/28? If I return the mini q q8 the same I buy it
I've seen it, it's Mini-Q Q6 but made of aluminium. Q6 is a good car. I'm not sure about the aluminium remake of it though.
I have a Q5 aluminium remake and it's alright. It's not the best quality and I still prefer the original but the structure is stronger and drives relatively well.
@@BeaversHobby already, is that the q5 in banggood they do not have it in stock now, and this is 28 euros cheaper, and they have the rtr version (without body) for the same price as the q5
@@juancar69 I think it's worth a try.
@@BeaversHobby which the q6 rtr (except body)? or wait for just the chassis and armor of the q5? You do not put heat shrinkable to the connection cables to the brushless?
@@juancar69 If you haven't got any standard radio equipment (one with 3 wire system and receiver) then the RTR is a good start. If you already have transmitter, receiver, ESC, motor and servo then the chassis only is a good choice.
Are these both for sale now?
No, only the ESC with aluminium case is on sale. The motor is still in development.
I have 9000kv motor, is it working smooth with furitek momentum?
It depends which 9000KV it is, if it's the new series like Surpass Rocket then it should work well. You will have to set the punch quite high so it works smoothly.
@@BeaversHobby in my country furitek momentum esc + motor surpass price is almost same with combo sensored team powers m radon, what do you prefer to buy?
@@fandykaryanto2141 Go for sensored system if you can. The startup will be smoother than sensorless. I also have the M Radon, it's pretty good although I haven't found a setup that I'm entirely comfortable driving it yet.
@@BeaversHobby thankyou very much
@@fandykaryanto2141 My pleasure.
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@@BeaversHobby พอทราบยี่ห้อไหมครับ
@@bulseewant5289 ยี่ห้อ Furitek ครับ น่าจะมีตัวแทนจำหน่ายในไทยนะ เดี๋ยวผมลองหาดู ถ้าไม่มีสั่งโดยตรงก็ได้ครับ furitek.com/
👍🎵🎶🎶
...and i never use lead-free solder. such a pain to work with.