Glad you did a review on Dewalt. I'm going nuts trying to find a decent VARIABLE SPEED Bench Grinder. None in sight! On the Dewalt website, the 8" grinder had bad reviews but the 6" grinder had great reviews. I have a brand new Harbor Freight 8" grinder that vibrates a lot probably due to the plastic table I mounted it on. I'm going to sell it off and buy the 6" Dewalt. I wish it had a variable speed switch but it does not, too bad. I would recommend to everyone, get the 6" model, it is more than enough. If you go bigger, the weight rocks your table, the wheels are not true, and you pay more. No other advantage. Don't worry about tightening or loosening the wheels. They tighten/loosen inversely for that reason. It works out fine. Knipex makes a narrow wrench that fits into the slot behind the wheel you are working with. You can hold on there while you tighten or loosen your wheel. Same on all grinders. I have the 8" Harbor Freight version and same situation. Its like a lathe!
Used mine for the first time today, but a put the SS wire wheel (same as yours) on the left and a 320 grit diamond wheel on the right. Had to buy a 5/8" washer to recenter the wheel, and used construction adhesive to center it on the collar because the hole was slightly larger and I didn't want it to go off balance. I also had trouble tightening the arbor nuts. I kept the wire wheel tool rest away from the wheel far enough to avoid contact. The right side was close, so I moved the spacer washer to the right, between the tool rest and the bracket it mounts to. I also didn't mount my grinder yet, and it did try to walk around a bit. I want to mount it on a hand truck so it can be wheeled outside. This video must've popped up because I did an online search today on how to lock the arbor while changing wheels. I was hoping to swap them out as needed, but an additional bench grinder might be easier.
Why did DeWalt not include a light to aid in more accurate grinding, I wonder? My current 6 inch grinder (under powered in my opinion) is in my perhaps poorly lit shop and I depend on the extra light.
I bought the same unit last year and I found this video because of the EXACT same question. Anyone make after market LED lights on goosenecks for this model? I have to wear a headlamp as I work with this unit.
Suggest you insert 1-2 washers on one side of the mounting bracket for the rest to centre it to the grinding wheel, rather than trimming the inside edge of the rest. Also, most, if not all bench grinders have one axle running through from one wheel to the other, which produces the effect of one side coming loose while the other is being tightened. Suggest you put a spanner or socket on each side at the same time and turn one clockwise while turning the other counterclockwise (for you) to tighten both sides to the correct torque.
i have exactly the same issue with trying to tighten one without loosening the other. In the end i have just settled on using one wheel at a time and took all the spacers and stuff off the other side. Not optimal but without some sort of way of locking the arbor, no way of tightening the other side. I thought DeWalt were clever with their tools until i tried working out the logic of this one.
@@diytoolreviews8278 I just got mine and put the star washers between the rests and the mounts. The gap is the same on both sides of the wheels. I currently don't have mine bolted down but will be using a pedestal my Dad made 70 or 80 years ago (the grinder mounted to it died and can't be rebuilt - no parts available).
If the side that is being tightened loosens the other side, just tighten both sides incrementally. As for the wheel wobble, did you check the side of the stone for flatness? Plus the hub of the stone has to be perfectly perpendicular to the stone for no wobble.
I agree wholeheartedly that this unit is MUCH quieter running and MUCH more stable on a bench without being bolted down than any similar unit I have used. I disagree that the wobble is in the grinder. If you watch the light reflection....the bolts and arbor are fine. The 'wobble' is from the stone or a washer touching the stone.
It's really true, when I heard you talking about the mechanism I thought it was an amateur, but then I went to test it on my DW756 for the first time, and it's true, you press one side and release the other, it seems like a comedy show for children trying to lock , at the end you have to hold the stone wheel or carbon crimp wheel in your hand to tighten the nut. This system is poorly designed. One detail, on my 756 the base is well centered on the stone, but the carbon crimp wheel leans towards the outside edges. In your case it would be good to put thicker stones, in mine I lack space, I have to leave the plate open so as not to lose protection against rust.
You can also get a coarse scotchbrite wheel to "grind" aluminium. How it works is the SB wheel slowly abrades away but it does not clog like a grinding wheel does. This is how anyone who has built and airplane abrades aluminium.
I think he should let the rest get ground down by the wheels as he works on projects. Letting moving parts wear into non-moving parts is a tried and true method. I do a lot of gun work. When I install a new slide or trigger sear into an old frame, I coat all the parts with polishing compound then work them over and over and over to wear them together. When I get the fit I want, I clean all the parts of the compound, reassemble with a dry lube and send it back to the owner.
all grinders are like that. you are right, it is a pain in the ass. there should be a button where you can hold the armature static, like you have on an angle grinder, just as you say.
@ebenjamintoane I thought the exact same thing! So I purchased these rechargeable @Kobalt LED magnetic “flip” lights. They work PERFECTLY! I wish I could show you a pic
Nope. I’ve looked at it three times and reviewed the instructions and I know I’ve got it installed as designed. If you look at the Amazon reviews about half the units have this same problem. Unless the directions are incorrect ...
Let me know if it helps. Mine when bolt, washer, through the rest, star washer, through the bracket, nut. It was that star washer that moved it were it needed to be
@@mygindustries8156 ok. Went out. Uninstalled it and reinstalled it making sure to review the diagram and ended up with exactly the same spacing as before. What’s curious is the instructions do say that the 756 model has an extra set of spaces which is exactly what it needs. I’ll just pick up a longer bolt and a space later and fix the problem myself. Thank you for your comment though, I’m sure many will suspect that I just installed it incorrectly but sure enough, it’s defective. On the other note, did you watch my gripe with the arbor nut ? What’s your thought on that? I’m really interested in knowing if there is a way to tighten the arbor nut without eventually loosening the opposing one. Thanks for watching!
@@diytoolreviews8278 There are but you still need to clean them occasionally. I use a belt grinder for alu and wood. If you need to use the bench grinder, make a wheel out of plywood and bond some velcro on it. Then you can use sanding discs.
You just grad onto the wheel and give the one your tighten a little jerk past “tight” and you’re good. 😉😎 Or..... I’m sure that there is a torque spec. out there. 🤓🤪
Nonsense. It is his first experience with setting up and adjusting a bench grinder out of the box. DeWalt sells these to first timers. This is EXACTLY the guy to review it. I was once given an engineering process problem in undergrad. The class was told to write out the process for making a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. The experienced sandwich students left out so many instructions that their 'process' was unusable to the novice. The experienced sandwich makers never told the students to buy peanut butter and jelly and bread. Never told the students to open the packages. Never told them what tool to use to spread the materials. Never told them what quantity of each material to use. It was an exercise that is sadly missing in classes today.
As far as I know all arbors on double grinders are like this. Do not worry about it too much they are self tightening.
I think the gaps on the outside of the rests are there to accommodate wider wheels.
I was just thinking that and removing the wheels is standard
Glad you did a review on Dewalt. I'm going nuts trying to find a decent VARIABLE SPEED Bench Grinder. None in sight!
On the Dewalt website, the 8" grinder had bad reviews but the 6" grinder had great reviews. I have a brand new Harbor Freight 8" grinder that vibrates a lot probably due to the plastic table I mounted it on. I'm going to sell it off and buy the 6" Dewalt. I wish it had a variable speed switch but it does not, too bad. I would recommend to everyone, get the 6" model, it is more than enough. If you go bigger, the weight rocks your table, the wheels are not true, and you pay more. No other advantage.
Don't worry about tightening or loosening the wheels. They tighten/loosen inversely for that reason. It works out fine. Knipex makes a narrow wrench that fits into the slot behind the wheel you are working with. You can hold on there while you tighten or loosen your wheel. Same on all grinders. I have the 8" Harbor Freight version and same situation. Its like a lathe!
Great feedback! Thank you. Let me know how the 6" works out.
Used mine for the first time today, but a put the SS wire wheel (same as yours) on the left and a 320 grit diamond wheel on the right. Had to buy a 5/8" washer to recenter the wheel, and used construction adhesive to center it on the collar because the hole was slightly larger and I didn't want it to go off balance. I also had trouble tightening the arbor nuts. I kept the wire wheel tool rest away from the wheel far enough to avoid contact. The right side was close, so I moved the spacer washer to the right, between the tool rest and the bracket it mounts to. I also didn't mount my grinder yet, and it did try to walk around a bit. I want to mount it on a hand truck so it can be wheeled outside. This video must've popped up because I did an online search today on how to lock the arbor while changing wheels. I was hoping to swap them out as needed, but an additional bench grinder might be easier.
Why did DeWalt not include a light to aid in more accurate grinding, I wonder? My current 6 inch grinder (under powered in my opinion) is in my perhaps poorly lit shop and I depend on the extra light.
I bought the same unit last year and I found this video because of the EXACT same question.
Anyone make after market LED lights on goosenecks for this model? I have to wear a headlamp as I work with this unit.
Are the inner most bushings installed they're about 1/2 inch. That would being the stones onto line with the cutouts on the rests.
Suggest you insert 1-2 washers on one side of the mounting bracket for the rest to centre it to the grinding wheel, rather than trimming the inside edge of the rest. Also, most, if not all bench grinders have one axle running through from one wheel to the other, which produces the effect of one side coming loose while the other is being tightened. Suggest you put a spanner or socket on each side at the same time and turn one clockwise while turning the other counterclockwise (for you) to tighten both sides to the correct torque.
Cut a timber wedge to place under the wheel when tightening or loosening the nut.
How 2 remove a wobbly wheel which is extremely tight and bent black metal guard ( bought used from amazon which wasn't tested)
i have exactly the same issue with trying to tighten one without loosening the other. In the end i have just settled on using one wheel at a time and took all the spacers and stuff off the other side. Not optimal but without some sort of way of locking the arbor, no way of tightening the other side. I thought DeWalt were clever with their tools until i tried working out the logic of this one.
No problems with mine...it's great, the assembly and everything
Yeah. I’m convinced there were two production runs and some are using the wrong parts.
My 60 grit has a wobble 🙁
Takes closer to 3 minutes from turning off the power to the wheel stopping according to your video. THAT is a great set of bearings!
Wait. your fix for the side of the rest contacting the side of the wheel is to file it down? Seems a little redundant.
I own the same. Just add a washer to the side thats too close to even out. Bolt is long enough.
Thanks! I'll definitely try that
@@diytoolreviews8278 I just got mine and put the star washers between the rests and the mounts. The gap is the same on both sides of the wheels. I currently don't have mine bolted down but will be using a pedestal my Dad made 70 or 80 years ago (the grinder mounted to it died and can't be rebuilt - no parts available).
If the side that is being tightened loosens the other side, just tighten both sides incrementally. As for the wheel wobble, did you check the side of the stone for flatness? Plus the hub of the stone has to be perfectly perpendicular to the stone for no wobble.
I think the tool rests are cut that way to accommodate wider wheels.
I agree wholeheartedly that this unit is MUCH quieter running and MUCH more stable on a bench without being bolted down than any similar unit I have used.
I disagree that the wobble is in the grinder. If you watch the light reflection....the bolts and arbor are fine. The 'wobble' is from the stone or a washer touching the stone.
It's really true, when I heard you talking about the mechanism I thought it was an amateur, but then I went to test it on my DW756 for the first time, and it's true, you press one side and release the other, it seems like a comedy show for children trying to lock , at the end you have to hold the stone wheel or carbon crimp wheel in your hand to tighten the nut. This system is poorly designed.
One detail, on my 756 the base is well centered on the stone, but the carbon crimp wheel leans towards the outside edges. In your case it would be good to put thicker stones, in mine I lack space, I have to leave the plate open so as not to lose protection against rust.
You can also get a coarse scotchbrite wheel to "grind" aluminium. How it works is the SB wheel slowly abrades away but it does not clog like a grinding wheel does. This is how anyone who has built and airplane abrades aluminium.
I think he should let the rest get ground down by the wheels as he works on projects. Letting moving parts wear into non-moving parts is a tried and true method.
I do a lot of gun work. When I install a new slide or trigger sear into an old frame, I coat all the parts with polishing compound then work them over and over and over to wear them together. When I get the fit I want, I clean all the parts of the compound, reassemble with a dry lube and send it back to the owner.
Have you worked out why the gap on the tool rest is wider on one side than the other?
The best explanation anyone has given is that it’s intended to accommodate wider wheels.
Dude!!! don't need to tight the balts.!!1 you can hand tight. The physics momentum will lock tight while grinding.😁😁😁
I grab the wheel with my hand, 25 years and no problems yet. I also use an impact driver to tighten/loosen the nuts, just one ugga-dugga though.
all grinders are like that. you are right, it is a pain in the ass. there should be a button where you can hold the armature static, like you have on an angle grinder, just as you say.
Note to DeWalt.... why are these not available in the UK??????
does this get hot? I need to run a grinder pretty consistency and others have gotten too hot
Put a glove on.... hold the wheel on the opposite side from where you are tightening/loosening.
Done.
@ebenjamintoane I thought the exact same thing! So I purchased these rechargeable @Kobalt LED magnetic “flip” lights. They work PERFECTLY! I wish I could show you a pic
Awesome video!! Thanks for sharing
Their is 2 1/4 inch spacer for the bottom rest......yes the dw756 do come with the spacers....I just assemble mine.
I put extra washers on the bracket to center the rest.
Dude you sound like Dave Groul, in a good way 👍
Great review. Mine came today and I bought the exact wire wheel you have too. What stand did you use?
I too would like to know.
Sorry for late reply. I built my own stand for it.
You definitely have your rest put together wrong. Just got mine today. First time I put the rest together I missed a washer. Now its centered
Nope. I’ve looked at it three times and reviewed the instructions and I know I’ve got it installed as designed. If you look at the Amazon reviews about half the units have this same problem. Unless the directions are incorrect ...
Maybe I got a good one then. Mines like the instructions say but the first time I missed that little star washer thing and it looked just like yours
@@mygindustries8156 I’m gonna go check one final time :) you got me doubting myself.
Let me know if it helps. Mine when bolt, washer, through the rest, star washer, through the bracket, nut. It was that star washer that moved it were it needed to be
@@mygindustries8156 ok. Went out. Uninstalled it and reinstalled it making sure to review the diagram and ended up with exactly the same spacing as before. What’s curious is the instructions do say that the 756 model has an extra set of spaces which is exactly what it needs. I’ll just pick up a longer bolt and a space later and fix the problem myself. Thank you for your comment though, I’m sure many will suspect that I just installed it incorrectly but sure enough, it’s defective.
On the other note, did you watch my gripe with the arbor nut ? What’s your thought on that? I’m really interested in knowing if there is a way to tighten the arbor nut without eventually loosening the opposing one.
Thanks for watching!
You should never grind aluminum on that thing. Get a diamond point and clean it up before it's too late.
Thanks for this great pointer. What do you recommend for grinding aluminum? Is there a special wheel?
@@diytoolreviews8278 There are but you still need to clean them occasionally. I use a belt grinder for alu and wood. If you need to use the bench grinder, make a wheel out of plywood and bond some velcro on it. Then you can use sanding discs.
@@compatibilizer6184 brilliant idea
You are so correct! There are wheels for aluminum, but ones that are not can literally explode apart if they get packed out with aluminum.
@@diytoolreviews8278 Get a belt or a disk sander for aluminum and brass. BTW it's officially called a bench grinder.
your not supposed to "press this" its perfect fitment.
You just grad onto the wheel and give the one your tighten a little jerk past “tight” and you’re good. 😉😎
Or..... I’m sure that there is a torque spec. out there. 🤓🤪
Do not use aluminum with a grinder, it will load up and possibly explode, Eck usmc
Looks like you've been grinding aluminum. Good way to hurt yourself. The pores plug up, the wheel overheats and "explodes".
Ridiculous. You load that wheel with aluminum it will come apart. I’ve seen it happen. Better have a good face shield
Seriously?
You are not qualified for a review of this tool
Maybe, but I prefer this type of review. He has issues that I might have as well, then asks for input, keeps an open mind and responds to the input.
Nonsense. It is his first experience with setting up and adjusting a bench grinder out of the box. DeWalt sells these to first timers. This is EXACTLY the guy to review it.
I was once given an engineering process problem in undergrad. The class was told to write out the process for making a peanut butter and jelly sandwich.
The experienced sandwich students left out so many instructions that their 'process' was unusable to the novice. The experienced sandwich makers never told the students to buy peanut butter and jelly and bread. Never told the students to open the packages. Never told them what tool to use to spread the materials. Never told them what quantity of each material to use.
It was an exercise that is sadly missing in classes today.
Does DeWalt have a setup video?
I felt the same way once he started talking/complaining about changing the wheels.